Love it love it your way of teaching it does show me more info cause I wanted to cut my new quarters for tubing my nova your video helps cause you did the inner quarter wheel weld do have one show installed front fenders
That was a great video and you presented the process well. Makes me feel like I could do this myself. My ears hurt for you while I watched you cutting the panel with no ear plugs, I have been there...
These clamps are awesome, if you're doing floor pans with them you'll need a helper to help you put the bottom piece of the clamp on underneath. But other than that I use these and magnets as well.
How many inches above the rocker panel did you leave to match up the new quarter panel skin? I'm doing a 1970 Chevelle right now and I'm trying to figure out should I remove the entire skin at the bottom where it butts up against the rocker panel going to the door or do I leave an inch and then just weld to that?
I usually leave an inch connected to the rocker to butt weld to. I don't really like to remove the existing lip that connects the quarter to the rocker unless I have to. A lot of the time the lip on the new quarter isn't stamped correctly and you have to cut it off anyways.
Hi, Thanks for your question. We have uploaded a video on how these clamps work. Hopefully this helps to answer any questions. Here is a link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/GxrSYD7U--w/v-deo.html
We use Walter cut off wheels, grinding wheels, flap disks etc. In our experience they outperform and most importantly outlast most anything you'll get at a hardware store or Lowes. Well worth the extra expense.
Hey man. What did you use to seal the weld on the visible surface of the quarter? I see you used transtar seam sealer on the outer wheel well and such, but what about the outside?
I don't use a sealer on the outside. I just grind my welds down, primer, and then start the body work. If I get any kind of warp I hammer and dolly it out before primering. I like to keep the filler to a minimum. Just a skim of filler is all I like.
So, you didn't show it, but did you put the new skin against old panel and trace a line to cut the old panel out? I prefer to butt weld like you did in this video, but unsure how much gap I should create between the new and old skin and how to get the gap. t. Do you just run the cut off wheel along the new skin using a thin cutting wheel or draw a line and cut using an offset you are used to? BTW, nice prof work there.
Thanks. I actually trace it a couple of times. The first time I cut about an away from the line and remove the metal from around the lip of the wheel well and anywhere else. Then I put it back up and trace around it again to see if the line has changed. It usually does. Then i cut close to the line the next time. About 1/4 away. I put it up one more time and see if it has changed. If not, I cut right on the line. I put it up for the last time and trim any spots that are overlapping while it's on there. You want your gap to be about the thickness of your cutting wheel. About a 1/16 of an inch. I hope this answers your question and helps you out.
I cut 2" in from the original mark because once you remove a lot of the metal (the lip of the wheel well, the bottom curve of the rear quarter etc.) the quarter skin can shift a little from the original mark. So after I cut the quarter about 2 inches from my mark, I put the skin back on and remark around it. That new mark is the mark that I cut for my final fit of the skin. I hope this answers your question.
It's just flat black Rust-Oleum. It covers pretty good. The cans are hit and miss on how they spray though. Some of them like to clog halfway through the can. I've also used John Deere Blitz Black, which I actually like better but the dry time isn't quite as fast.
@@fatdaddieshotrods that is awesome - thanks for the reply! The last guy replaced the quarters this 72 cutlass but skipped the outer wheelhouses for some reason. Should I cut the quarters to get at the wheelhouses, or try and replace them as-is? Love the channel!
Nice job! Whats your procedure for getting the panel to fit tight. Do you just trace it and then cut it out or I see some people lay the new panel over the old and then cut it.
In short, I hold the panel in place with the help of c clamps wherever i can use them. I trace the panel and then take it back off. I then cut two to three inches outside of the line. I then put the panel back on and use self taking screws to screw it on about an inch inside of the panel. This helps pull everything together so the next line is a accurate as possible. After that I'll either pull the panel off and cut the line or leave it on and cut around the edge of the panel. It really just depends on which is easier for the panel. If you leave it on just try and keep your cutoff wheel as straight to the panel as possible. If you angle it to much you will cut a bigger gap and make it more of a pain to weld. Hope this helps.
Hey Ron, I do believe Eastwood company sales those clamps. I think they're called panel clamps. I'm from the Pittsburgh area as well. Not far from Greensburg.
You can also check out Fitzees Fabrication, he did a quarter repair on a nova doing a process he call cut and butt. It's a different but helpful way for doing patches.
Nobody makes a true 73-74 Nova quarter panel. They sell them as 73-74 but they're actually 70-72 with the rear side marker stamped out for a 73-74. The body line under the rear side window doesn't even come close to matching. Look at side by side pictures of them and you'll see what I'm talking about. You have to trim them to fit which is not a big deal, just aggravating cause you think you're getting one thing but getting something passed off as what you want. I assume this is due to popularity. I just went through this with my 73 drag car. Sorry for the bad news buddy...but you'll have to settle for more work than you want.
good job but to be definitively efficient, you should put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside cavity- hidden erea - instead of using paint before reclosing), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year.Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
It's hard to give a price when it comes to quarter panels (anything really on these old cars). There are so many things that can change the price. Some that you can see before starting and some that you can't see until you get the quarter off. It's a safe bet to plan on at least 1,500-2K per side. It also depends on the price of the parts and the quality of the parts available. I hope this has helped and gives you an idea of the costs. Thanks.
I like to clean anything I can while the quarter skin is cut off. I cut off as much as I did because of rust in the back of the quarter and rust around the wheel well. Rust can extend several inches past the rust hole that you can see. Also it gives more room for fixing and installing the outer wheel well. Hopefully this answers your question.
Because the bottom of the quarter behind the wheel well was rusted and pin holed, the lip around the wheel well was rusted, and the outer wheel well was rusted out and needed replaced. I also like to cut close to the edges of the door jambs and rear of the quarter because it's easier to do body work and the braces and more ridged areas help to keep the contour when welding.
That works but why not use a quality replacement panel when available and remove and replace the whole thing in the same manner as original? This type of repair is always easy to spot no matter how well it is finished from the outside.
This quarter skin was actually supplied by the customer. Sometimes you can't get a whole quarter panel. As far as being able to spot a repair like this on the spot, I don't agree. If done correctly you cannot tell. I've done several quarter repairs and both ways have their pros and cons when it comes to fitment. I myself prefer the skin over the complete panel unless needed. Complete panels can sometimes end up being a lot more unnecessary time and work.
Very informative, thanks for taking the time to show us how to do this
Pleasure meeting you last weekend. Thanks for pointers. I guess i'll tackle this job myself now!
Thank you so much for making this video. I recently got my MIG setup put together so I can do the quarters and floors on my 72. This helped me a lot!
First time I seen your videos..you did a great job..good clean and clear video with no bs..
Great lesson for the ones that are learning, like me. Thank you.
Nice work! You encouraged me to do my own. Thanks!
Video is well done with insightful tips to help me replace quarter skin on my chevelle .
Good video nice welding instructions on welding a panel on. Looking forward to more content.
You put that quarter panel perfectly, great job
Great channel guys! Those body panel clips are really cool, never knew they existed. Great for butt welds.
Man you made that look easy, I’ve got a 63 impala I need to do that to and I’m scared to get with it but this video and those clamps ease my mind
Awesome job, it is going to look awesome with that panel welded on👆☝️👍👌👏👏👏👏
Love it love it your way of teaching it does show me more info cause I wanted to cut my new quarters for tubing my nova your video helps cause you did the inner quarter wheel weld do have one show installed front fenders
Thank you. Unfortunately that is the only Nova video we have as of right now.
Nice! I will be doing this to my 70 Nova soon. I just subscribed and will be watching!👍
Great job man.
Awesome video 👍👍
Looked like you did that in one evening.
So how about stop by for dinner and do that to my 65 Nova ..... um, X2
LOL
That was some good work.
Those clamps are genius
Awesome how to video thank you!!!!
Thanks for that lesson.
Great job
Nice demo 👍🏻…. It’s the best way to do it , no doubt
Great commentary
That was a great video and you presented the process well. Makes me feel like I could do this myself. My ears hurt for you while I watched you cutting the panel with no ear plugs, I have been there...
Pretty cool brother 🤘🏻
Great advice
What's up Kevin? So cool to watch my friend on UA-cam!
Great vid
Good job
I will look for those clamps tomorrow. I've never seen them before.
Harbor freight has them back in the welding section.
These clamps are awesome, if you're doing floor pans with them you'll need a helper to help you put the bottom piece of the clamp on underneath. But other than that I use these and magnets as well.
What are they called because I can't find them
Just replaced the outer wheel well today and it was giving me a fight on fitment. Hopefully the quarter panel lines up.
Wow great video just asking what it cost u to do all this my 68 could really need all what u have done dam Ohio salt lol
Excellent content! Let's get you more subscribers!!!
Thanks for sharing
Nice work. How did you weld the quarter to the trunk floor drop offs? Plug weld or edge weld? Thanks a bunch!
Thanks. I plug welded along the bottom.
@@fatdaddieshotrods Cool, thanks. I'm not doing quarters, but instead the trunk floor and drop offs on my '68 Camaro.
nice job...quick and dirty.....
How many inches above the rocker panel did you leave to match up the new quarter panel skin? I'm doing a 1970 Chevelle right now and I'm trying to figure out should I remove the entire skin at the bottom where it butts up against the rocker panel going to the door or do I leave an inch and then just weld to that?
I usually leave an inch connected to the rocker to butt weld to. I don't really like to remove the existing lip that connects the quarter to the rocker unless I have to. A lot of the time the lip on the new quarter isn't stamped correctly and you have to cut it off anyways.
Could you show how you used those clamps and took them off? The welding claps
Hi, Thanks for your question. We have uploaded a video on how these clamps work. Hopefully this helps to answer any questions.
Here is a link to the video.
ua-cam.com/video/GxrSYD7U--w/v-deo.html
So did you mention around 2:45 that you are in Virginia? If so what part I’m in Danville/Lynchburg area and rebuilding a 74 nova.
Yes. We are located just outside of Harrisonburg.
This video will sure as hell be in handy when I buy my grandpas 73 nova and start restoring it from its neglected rotting state.
Great work! What did you use to seal your welds with the brush?
Thank you. I use Transtar 4164 Ultra Flex Brushable Seam Sealer.
Nice job what grinding disc is that? i am blowin threw rotloc discs..
We use Walter cut off wheels, grinding wheels, flap disks etc. In our experience they outperform and most importantly outlast most anything you'll get at a hardware store or Lowes. Well worth the extra expense.
Hey man. What did you use to seal the weld on the visible surface of the quarter? I see you used transtar seam sealer on the outer wheel well and such, but what about the outside?
I don't use a sealer on the outside. I just grind my welds down, primer, and then start the body work. If I get any kind of warp I hammer and dolly it out before primering. I like to keep the filler to a minimum. Just a skim of filler is all I like.
Can you please do one for a 68-72 nova trunk pan and tail light panel
I wish I could for you. Right now I don't have anything that needs trunk pans or trail panel, but when I do, I'll be sure to do a video on it.
Im in the Atlanta area, 71 impala needs this job. Any body close? That can do the work
So, you didn't show it, but did you put the new skin against old panel and trace a line to cut the old panel out? I prefer to butt weld like you did in this video, but unsure how much gap I should create between the new and old skin and how to get the gap. t.
Do you just run the cut off wheel along the new skin using a thin cutting wheel or draw a line and cut using an offset you are used to? BTW, nice prof work there.
Thanks. I actually trace it a couple of times. The first time I cut about an away from the line and remove the metal from around the lip of the wheel well and anywhere else. Then I put it back up and trace around it again to see if the line has changed. It usually does. Then i cut close to the line the next time. About 1/4 away. I put it up one more time and see if it has changed. If not, I cut right on the line. I put it up for the last time and trim any spots that are overlapping while it's on there. You want your gap to be about the thickness of your cutting wheel. About a 1/16 of an inch. I hope this answers your question and helps you out.
Thanks
did you add any filler to your weld line or did it come out fairly smooth?
I had to use filler but it's a minimal amount. Nothing deeper than the manufacturers suggested max.
So you originally cut the car two inches in from the size of the panel. When doing the final install did you cut to the original mark that you drew?
I cut 2" in from the original mark because once you remove a lot of the metal (the lip of the wheel well, the bottom curve of the rear quarter etc.) the quarter skin can shift a little from the original mark. So after I cut the quarter about 2 inches from my mark, I put the skin back on and remark around it. That new mark is the mark that I cut for my final fit of the skin.
I hope this answers your question.
Love this video! What is the matte paint you are using? I am assuming it isn't primer. Thanks!
It's just flat black Rust-Oleum. It covers pretty good. The cans are hit and miss on how they spray though. Some of them like to clog halfway through the can. I've also used John Deere Blitz Black, which I actually like better but the dry time isn't quite as fast.
@@fatdaddieshotrods that is awesome - thanks for the reply! The last guy replaced the quarters this 72 cutlass but skipped the outer wheelhouses for some reason. Should I cut the quarters to get at the wheelhouses, or try and replace them as-is? Love the channel!
Did you weld the wheel well to the quarter panel skin? Or does it just sit flush on the interior of the quarter panel skin?
Yes the quarter skin does weld to the wheel well. I spot weld it about 2 inches apart to the quarter skin on the bottom lip.
is there a part number for those clamps, i cant seem to find them
Yeah. You can get them at Harbor Freight. They are Butt Welding clamps 60545
What brand of seam sealer did you use? Is it transtar 4164 ?
Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, it is the 4164.
Awesome work...I got a 69 Nova that needs some metal work. Where are yall located?
Thank you. We are located in Harrisonburg Va.
Nice job! Whats your procedure for getting the panel to fit tight. Do you just trace it and then cut it out or I see some people lay the new panel over the old and then cut it.
In short, I hold the panel in place with the help of c clamps wherever i can use them. I trace the panel and then take it back off. I then cut two to three inches outside of the line. I then put the panel back on and use self taking screws to screw it on about an inch inside of the panel. This helps pull everything together so the next line is a accurate as possible. After that I'll either pull the panel off and cut the line or leave it on and cut around the edge of the panel. It really just depends on which is easier for the panel. If you leave it on just try and keep your cutoff wheel as straight to the panel as possible. If you angle it to much you will cut a bigger gap and make it more of a pain to weld. Hope this helps.
@@fatdaddieshotrods thanks! That does help.
Where did you get the quarter panel from ? I'm in Pittsburgh PA and have 73 nova.
I wish I could answer that. The customer supplied it. I never thought to ask him. If I find out, I'll post it up.
Hey Ron, I do believe Eastwood company sales those clamps. I think they're called panel clamps. I'm from the Pittsburgh area as well. Not far from Greensburg.
You can also check out Fitzees Fabrication, he did a quarter repair on a nova doing a process he call cut and butt. It's a different but helpful way for doing patches.
Nobody makes a true 73-74 Nova quarter panel. They sell them as 73-74 but they're actually 70-72 with the rear side marker stamped out for a 73-74. The body line under the rear side window doesn't even come close to matching. Look at side by side pictures of them and you'll see what I'm talking about. You have to trim them to fit which is not a big deal, just aggravating cause you think you're getting one thing but getting something passed off as what you want. I assume this is due to popularity. I just went through this with my 73 drag car. Sorry for the bad news buddy...but you'll have to settle for more work than you want.
good job but to be definitively efficient, you should put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside cavity- hidden erea - instead of using paint before reclosing), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year.Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
what are those clamps called?
They are butt weld clamps. Here is a link on how to use them and more info about them.
ua-cam.com/video/GxrSYD7U--w/v-deo.html
How much you charge to replace a rear quarter on 71 Ventura
Unfortunately we don't give estimates. You never know what you're going to run into with these old cars. Our rate is $55 an hour plus materials.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
What’s it cost to do a quarter panel replacement?
It's hard to give a price when it comes to quarter panels (anything really on these old cars). There are so many things that can change the price. Some that you can see before starting and some that you can't see until you get the quarter off. It's a safe bet to plan on at least 1,500-2K per side. It also depends on the price of the parts and the quality of the parts available. I hope this has helped and gives you an idea of the costs.
Thanks.
So you removed a lot of good original steel to clean behind them?
I like to clean anything I can while the quarter skin is cut off. I cut off as much as I did because of rust in the back of the quarter and rust around the wheel well. Rust can extend several inches past the rust hole that you can see. Also it gives more room for fixing and installing the outer wheel well. Hopefully this answers your question.
@@fatdaddieshotrods I guess what I really wanted to know was why you found it necessary to replace most of the 1/4 panel in the first place.
Because the bottom of the quarter behind the wheel well was rusted and pin holed, the lip around the wheel well was rusted, and the outer wheel well was rusted out and needed replaced. I also like to cut close to the edges of the door jambs and rear of the quarter because it's easier to do body work and the braces and more ridged areas help to keep the contour when welding.
That works but why not use a quality replacement panel when available and remove and replace the whole thing in the same manner as original? This type of repair is always easy to spot no matter how well it is finished from the outside.
This quarter skin was actually supplied by the customer. Sometimes you can't get a whole quarter panel. As far as being able to spot a repair like this on the spot, I don't agree. If done correctly you cannot tell. I've done several quarter repairs and both ways have their pros and cons when it comes to fitment. I myself prefer the skin over the complete panel unless needed. Complete panels can sometimes end up being a lot more unnecessary time and work.
You don't flange car or skin and what sealer u use and were to buy it thank you
I don't flange my welds. I butt weld them. The sealer I used is Transtar 4164 brushable seam sealer.
@@fatdaddieshotrods thank you
The clamps at 5:40 what are they called
ua-cam.com/video/GxrSYD7U--w/v-deo.html
This has all the info on those clamps.
Why the fuck would you cut off a factory gm panel to put on a Japanese one
To fix the rust? I really don't understand this question.