Great video! So much misinformation and back and forth online on how to properly time and set fuel sync on the magnums. For those who dont know... Marty is a class act and has been super helpful on my magnum build. Cant recommend his service and products enough
Man I've been having this issue on my 98 Durango. I'm going to go ahead and try this and see what happens. Mine is rotated a lot further than this. I tried mimicking another truck I have at the house. But then again it doesn't quite run right lol. Thanks for the videos Ive been saving for a cam setup for my truck. It's a daily and I don't want nothing crazy. But I'll be sure to go through this guy, if no body watches he is a wizard with these motors and I am proud he has took the time to show people that these motors indeed have Utawesome potential!!!!
Thanks for the info. I’ve been running my 360 magnum carbed since 2010 in my 79 Ramcharger. It’s actually about to be borrowed by my Duster while I rewire the RC finally. Cam is toast in my 340 so I’m swapping for a few months. Anyway, when it goes back in it’ll get efi finally. Either your stage one intake or a Hughes rpm AirGap efi. It has a Hughes 208/214 .512/.520 112 LSA cam.
Of course I watch this after the fact, was hoping to start up tomorrow. Not looking forward to manuevering around behind the intake on my ram. Hoping to get the feel of the distributor gear lined up with a long screwdriver like you did here. I messed up dropping the distributor in with the cam gear at 6 o'clock instead of 12 and just got everything in place after 4 hard days
I am installing a rebuilt 360 (5.9) engine in my 1993 Dodge Ramcharger. After I set it to TDC and set the distributer per your great instructions, what (if any) scan tool can be used on a OBD1 system to set the degrees like you mentioned? Or is voltage the only way to do an older system?
I just put a new 5.9 magnum in my 2002 1500 it will crank but won’t start the scanner I have says there is a miss fire just on cylinder 1. How can i fix this
Got a question hope you could give some insight, i ended up doing the plenum and gasket job. Also did the plugs, wires,cap and rotor and coil (all oem mopar). Truck on startup i could tell has slight rough running, almost like wire on wrong cyl (been triple checked and they are correct). Truck ran smooth before all this. When i restabbed the distributor, with my markings i made, if it is off it would be so minuscule from where it was. I had to remove it because the cap bolts had snapped off from rust and had to drill out and repair threads. So my question is do you think this sounds like a sync problem? Im confused how it would change since battery was disconnected for a long period of time during the on/off working on this. I look forward to your knowledge here, oh also i did smoke check for vacuum leaks because thats what it felt like what was going on and was all good. One other note is i notice your nice cap w brass tips, i paid i think 30 dollars for mopar oem and it came w the cheap tips, go figure. Thanks alot for your time as well as this video, ill be looking more into your content.
@utawesomeperformance2211 Appreciate the reply. Figured it out bout hour ago. Apparently 3 times wasnt good enough. Since i would have bet money on the way it felt, yep, 2 wires were crossed, 5 and 7. Sorry for wasting your time but thank you for the insightful video.
I got my tunes from these guys and they are awesome love the quality and the knowledge I failed to do the oil pump gear to the number 1 valve cover bolt but that my truck wants to be more advanced also my truck is cammed and tuned so it may be different now idk yet
@@masonchapman1575oh I did the same thing. The slot on my oil pump drive gear was about 11:45 and 5:45. It won't idle, it'll just die. Above 1000 RPM it's fine. How did yours run with the slot not being pointed correctly? Were you able to just drop the distributor in and adjust the distributor housing enough to line the rotor up with number one cylinder and it was fine?
@@Christian.jsf1I took the distributor back out and turned the motor to TDC on 1 again to make sure I got it but this video is extremely helpful I finally got it to idle better just was off just enough
Related question; I have a old snapon mtg2500 brick, and a 94 dakota with the mopar performance ECM. The scanner seems to suggest setting the distributor to 0° btdc for fuel sync. Is that correct or should it be set differently than what the scanner suggests?
Thanks for the video Marty!! Totally helps me wrap my head around what you were telling me to do! Thank you sir!!
Great video! So much misinformation and back and forth online on how to properly time and set fuel sync on the magnums. For those who dont know... Marty is a class act and has been super helpful on my magnum build. Cant recommend his service and products enough
Glad it helped!
Man I've been having this issue on my 98 Durango. I'm going to go ahead and try this and see what happens. Mine is rotated a lot further than this. I tried mimicking another truck I have at the house. But then again it doesn't quite run right lol. Thanks for the videos Ive been saving for a cam setup for my truck. It's a daily and I don't want nothing crazy. But I'll be sure to go through this guy, if no body watches he is a wizard with these motors and I am proud he has took the time to show people that these motors indeed have Utawesome potential!!!!
Great how to Marty, very much appreciate it!
Very welcome
Thanks for the info. I’ve been running my 360 magnum carbed since 2010 in my 79 Ramcharger. It’s actually about to be borrowed by my Duster while I rewire the RC finally. Cam is toast in my 340 so I’m swapping for a few months. Anyway, when it goes back in it’ll get efi finally. Either your stage one intake or a Hughes rpm AirGap efi. It has a Hughes 208/214 .512/.520 112 LSA cam.
Happy to see a vid from you with comments turned on so I can give you a 👍💪
Of course I watch this after the fact, was hoping to start up tomorrow. Not looking forward to manuevering around behind the intake on my ram. Hoping to get the feel of the distributor gear lined up with a long screwdriver like you did here. I messed up dropping the distributor in with the cam gear at 6 o'clock instead of 12 and just got everything in place after 4 hard days
This videos a lifesaver!
I am installing a rebuilt 360 (5.9) engine in my 1993 Dodge Ramcharger. After I set it to TDC and set the distributer per your great instructions, what (if any) scan tool can be used on a OBD1 system to set the degrees like you mentioned? Or is voltage the only way to do an older system?
I just put a new 5.9 magnum in my 2002 1500 it will crank but won’t start the scanner I have says there is a miss fire just on cylinder 1. How can i fix this
Does that tray work with flat tappet lifters, in a magnum block?
Got a question hope you could give some insight, i ended up doing the plenum and gasket job. Also did the plugs, wires,cap and rotor and coil (all oem mopar). Truck on startup i could tell has slight rough running, almost like wire on wrong cyl (been triple checked and they are correct). Truck ran smooth before all this. When i restabbed the distributor, with my markings i made, if it is off it would be so minuscule from where it was. I had to remove it because the cap bolts had snapped off from rust and had to drill out and repair threads. So my question is do you think this sounds like a sync problem? Im confused how it would change since battery was disconnected for a long period of time during the on/off working on this. I look forward to your knowledge here, oh also i did smoke check for vacuum leaks because thats what it felt like what was going on and was all good. One other note is i notice your nice cap w brass tips, i paid i think 30 dollars for mopar oem and it came w the cheap tips, go figure. Thanks alot for your time as well as this video, ill be looking more into your content.
It is always best to plug in the scanner and set the sync after moving it.
@utawesomeperformance2211 Appreciate the reply. Figured it out bout hour ago. Apparently 3 times wasnt good enough. Since i would have bet money on the way it felt, yep, 2 wires were crossed, 5 and 7. Sorry for wasting your time but thank you for the insightful video.
I got my tunes from these guys and they are awesome love the quality and the knowledge I failed to do the oil pump gear to the number 1 valve cover bolt but that my truck wants to be more advanced also my truck is cammed and tuned so it may be different now idk yet
@@masonchapman1575oh I did the same thing. The slot on my oil pump drive gear was about 11:45 and 5:45. It won't idle, it'll just die. Above 1000 RPM it's fine. How did yours run with the slot not being pointed correctly? Were you able to just drop the distributor in and adjust the distributor housing enough to line the rotor up with number one cylinder and it was fine?
@@Christian.jsf1I took the distributor back out and turned the motor to TDC on 1 again to make sure I got it but this video is extremely helpful I finally got it to idle better just was off just enough
Related question; I have a old snapon mtg2500 brick, and a 94 dakota with the mopar performance ECM. The scanner seems to suggest setting the distributor to 0° btdc for fuel sync. Is that correct or should it be set differently than what the scanner suggests?
Usually you can bump it to zero to positive four.
Do I have to take the timing cover off in order to retime these engines? Have a 318 plus it’s in the truck
No you do not
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