Power Commander C32 33 34 35 Error Code Fix
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2020
- In this video I show you how to troubleshoot the c32, c33, c34, c35 error codes that are associated with the fuel injectors of your motorcycle. This issue is not solely consistent with just the Power Commander, in fact it will also occur without one since the problem was related to a dirty connection at that kickstand safety switch. Since the Power Commander is a fuel management system I initially thought that there was an issue with the cable wiring or unit itself giving me the fault codes after receiving a quick jolt from freeway bumps. Quick/Sharp jolts combined with broken or loose connections is often the culprit of sudden failure blurbs.
A side from the FI indicator and codes being thrown other indicators may be a sudden loss of power or complete engine stall during your ride.
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This was a huge help, I like how you pointed out the course of the wires. No words in the video yet still has the best how to. Thanks bro
Hi James. Are you still on original ECU? My 2005 GSXR 750 ECU went bad at 60,000 miles. Symptoms: After about an hour of riding and bike heat soaked, it would suddenly shut off with no codes while riding in dealer mode. It always started back up with either cycling key to off and run position, but would just crank if I flipped the kill switch only. Lots of research time lead me to just replacing my ECU with a brand new factory EU spec ECU. It was like an instant tuneup! Needless to say I did fuel flow tests, connection cleaning and ground checks prior to purchase of ECU. No visible damage to original ECU at all. 750 has not missed a beat since install 500 +miles. Keep this in mind as the culprits are side stand switch, clutch switch, tip over sensor, fuel pump relay and ignition switch and kill switch. I hope this helps everyone out as I've heard stories in GSXR 600,750 and 1000s. Only one other guy followed through with his posts on Gsxr forum after buying new ECU and went missing after 500 mi update. Apparently, they break connection on inside, something similar to stva motherboard connection. If, anything people seem to follow you and this is why I think your the best person to pass this information onto. Again, my 750 started and ran great until it got hot. Keep up the good work. Ken in Malaysia!
One more thing. I did add more cushion below ecu. Suzuki cushion is a bit thin inside ecu box. I also heat shielded over top of ecu between battery and ecu.
Hey Kenneth, thanks for sharing this information. This is a fist that I've heard of this issue and through this channel will be passing along this information.
I have heard of ECUs going bad but it's usually a work or it doesn't type of situation. I have over a 140k miles on my cluster and still have the original ECU with OEM mapping but I do keep a spare ECU for troubleshooting cases just like you describe. Infact I keep on shelf most of the major components that are know to go out or cause issues such as RR, Stators, TPS. harness... ect. I've had the bike long enough now to know what I need on hand to get me up and running in no time. That said because I've had the bike for over 8 years now is the reason why I have produced so many videos on how to repair it and why my channel usually comes up in google searches in the top 5 spot.
It would seem that Suzuki never thought about vibration and heat over time when it came to implementing PCB components, but let's be fair, neither would I considering it's just fiberglass and copper.
Have you opened up the ECU to see if there was any visible damage to the board and or components. That would be a great fix to post if you could actually resolve the issue in a diy.
@@TheChemistDIY I'll eventually get to it. As I get one thing fixed, another project pops up, like the soldering on my LH high low beam switch. Lol. At 16 years old, the vibration takes it toll. Luckily, plenty of new and used parts available. If I come up with a solid plan on how to heat up the clear material and slide the motherboard out of its case, I will do my best to document it. My original ECU still runs the bike, but just will shutdown in hot condition. I got a once in a lifetime price on brand new ECU, otherwise I would have bought used, which is very risky.
Hello mate
Can you do a bike walk around talk us through all yours mods..I'm intrested in learning more about the switch board u got
Thanks
What Up Brother, I will work on that for you. The switch panel is something I created on my 3D printer some time ago and you can see that here ua-cam.com/video/TNnxIHA5VhA/v-deo.html. I was looking to selling them but there wasn't much demand so I Xed that. I'm current in the process of making a new switch panel with voltmeter that looks way cooler than this so subscribe and be on the lookout for that. I just went out last week to purchase all the materials and I'm currently in the design phase..
@@TheChemistDIY ah nice!
Yeah I'm already subbed
Did you bike completely shut off? Or did it just flash the warnings? Because mine just completely shut off and shown 33 through 36 and would turn on
When you say shut off, do you complete voltage ⚡ power loss to.. or just the engine..
@@TheChemistDIY so basically I was riding down the highway. Going about 80-90. Then all of a sudden I gave it some throttle to go alittle faster, then the bike just died, slowly powered down and eventually stopped running. But was still powered on. Cycled the key a couple times with it in neautral and it still didn’t start back up. Tried to drop it into 2nd-3rd gear while rolling it and it wouldn’t roll start either. Then it started throwing the 33-36 codes.
@@bmac9317 eww.. So basically when a bike powers down completely that's going to be your regular rectifier. I'm talking zip zero zitch bike completely shuts off and you're just rolling. You would not be able to read any codes.. Had this happen to me a few times and the RR was fried every time.
You're saying you went to give it gas and the engine shut off but still had electrical, could see the speedometer and it was throwing codes... Ok..I'm thinking fuel pump cut out on you causing those code's.. drop the fuel pump and test.. but B4 you do flip the tank, start her up and wiggles wires going to pump.. see if there is a short or lose connection.. if good, move to removing and test.. it may be as simple as lose connection.. or as bad as pump going out..
@@TheChemistDIY right on! I’ll give that a shot
Hey man, I have a 2005, GSXR 1000, and it won't start. Codes say c 32, 33, 34, 35. Opened it up. It has the commander unit in there. Checked the kick stand switch and everything, but nada. Any suggestions? Thanks man,
Subscribed
Bypass the kickstand switch by inserting a wire into the green connector and jumpering.. tape down the wire and ride like that for a few days and see if the bike throws the same codes at any point.. if not then your kick stand switch is bad.. you can leave the wire in but just know that you will have no warning of the kickstand being down and could result in a accident.
To have all 4 injector codes thrown at once means that there was power interrupt to your your fuel delivery. Aside from the fuel pump the only other real thing that cuts off the fuel is the kickstand and kill switch.. both are a safety feature. You may want to check there.
I'm getting the c32 code on a k7 750, coulple of issues which is very confusing, bike loses power when idling like its not getting fuel and eventually picks back up or dies, occasionally fuel pump won't prime and the fault code has only come up twice but symptoms are more regular, bike does same and loses power and is jerky while riding, disconnected air shifter module and pc3 but problems are still there, any ideas or help is appreciated
Disconnect AND put a jumper across your kick stand switch, wrap some electrical tape around the jumper so it doesn't fall out.. Green connector in the engine bay. Take for a test ride and see if problem goes away.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks, I'll give it a try, could this be the problem even with getting all these symptoms in neutral with the kick stand down
@@carlmountford1626 no.. if the bike drops idle to the point of stall, while in neutral and your side stand down they we need to look elsewhere..
With the 32 code I would start with flushing your injectors frwd/backwards.. if that the case.. maybe even performing a fuel pressure test..
Since you mentioned the fuel pump not priming.. I would pull, clean and test..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks, I'll give it a try
You got the same readings form the kickstand switch after you cleaned it. So, you never showed how to fix these error codes. What did I miss?
Sorry about that, I should have been more clear. The reading is to demonstrate the intermittent signal when pressing and release.. when the push button contacts are dirty you won't see any value pop up on the DM screen. A properly working kick switch will always show a consistent value during press and release. Makes sense?
@@TheChemistDIYit seems the value changes depending on if you are pushing the button for the kick switch in or releasing it. So, it's not a consistent value .... Am I misunderstanding? Thanks man
@@user-lv4lm4zl5o yes the value will be inconsistent. The goal of the test is to make sure that every time you push the button there is a reading. One failure means that when your bike hits a bump and the kickstand moves ever so slightly that it will cut off fuel to the engine because it thinks your side stand is down.. so it's important that it works on every press (fast/slow or whatever)
@@TheChemistDIY thank you so much for the knowledge brother.
Z1000 model 2006 ....34.....code...?
That I do not know.. maybe some else will respond with your answer.
R1 ... 34 error
Eww, if the codes are the same for your bike as they are for the Gixr power test the injector for proper operation and put on a DM for correct resistance.
Remedy is to Disconnect the Power Commander once you connect the unit to the Bike Harness there is a Conflict pure faulty design and there is Zero engine gains ..............Garbage Product ..............