Ninebot ES1/2/3/4 Modular External Battery Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- *NOTE THIS VIDEO HAS DATED INFORMATION WHERE THE EXTERNAL BATTERY IS WIRED IN PARALLEL WITH THE INTERNAL ONE. WHILE THIS DOES WORK, IT ISN'T THE SAFEST SOLUTION AND WE HIGHLY SUGGEST USING THE EXTERNAL BATTERY ADAPTER: www.thingivers...
This nifty little mod allows you to swap in/out external batteries in under 20 seconds!
If you still have any questions regarding the steps performed in this video, feel free to leave them in the comments section below and we will try to get back to you as soon as possible. If you are looking for help regarding hacking an ex impounded rental scooter or other Ninebot scooter help , please join the Scooter Hacking Discord discussion channel by following the steps here: www.scooterhac...
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Links:
Ninebot external battery adapter: www.bananascie...
Ninebot ES plug removal tool .STL files: www.thingivers...
Ninebot ES modular external battery mount .STL files: www.thingivers...
Support scooter hacking devs: wiki.scooterha....
Scooter Hacking Hub: www.scooterhac...
Consider supporting our channel and buying the parts for this video from the following links:
Ninebot ES modular external battery mount: www.ebay.com/i...
Ninebot ES plug removal tool: www.bananascie...
Ninebot ES4 electric scooter: amzn.to/2VcgkhJ
Ninebot ES2 electric scooter: www.banggood.c....
TS100 soldering iron: amzn.to/32QPT6r
MG chemicals solder: amzn.to/2VSEty9
Ninebot internal battery: rover.ebay.com...
A VERY IMPORTANT note on the conformal coating and Wiring Method 2 if you're doing this on a new scooter: I purchased my scooter brand new in 2024 and the speed controller didn't have a conformal coating. Instead it was potted in silicone (stay with me, this goes somewhere). It's really soft stuff, very easy to remove, so at first I thought it was no problem. I took a razor blade and cut out a little square around the positive terminal, cut out a little square around the negative. Since the terminals are only a couple mm's away from each other this obviously removed the silicone in between them as well. And I'm glad it did because as I used my little electronics brush to brush away the crumbs I saw the little micro-cuts in the solder mask revealing the shiny copper. I saw one teeny tiny shiny super close to the positive terminal itself. "No big deal" I thought. "That's obviously the positive trace itself. Nobody would be dumb enough to route anything THAT close to high-current power." Then I remembered the reason I'm doing this in the first place and immediately grabbed my multimeter. I touched the little copper hair with one lead, touched the negative terminal with the other, and sure enough it beeped. Continuity. That's right, to meet the current draw requirements needed to power the scooter, they could've either used a wide trace and flooded it with solder like they did for the positive terminal on the back of the PCB, or they could use a really really wide trace (AKA copper pour). Since the extra step of flipping the board over and applying solder would have costed them an extra .04¢ per unit, they decided to let the "auto-route" button on their PCB design software come up with a fantastic solution- route the negative trace with a copper pour that completely surrounds the positive terminal, so that the only thing separating them is the software's minimum clearance requirement and that requirement turns out to be around a 1/2 mm. I wish I was making this up. So yeah definitely don't use a razor like I did but also don't feel safe because no matter what you use to scrape the potting away, there WILL be breaches in the solder mask because it's the crappy thin cheap kind. (Obviously. Why would they use the good stuff when it costs 0.0000002 cents more?) Your solder joint will be wider than the original by more than 1/2 a mm which means short circuit as soon as you turn the scooter on. It probably won't be a dead short because we're talking micro-hairs here, but it will definitely trip your BMS which means taking everything apart again. What I'm doing to remedy this is three coats of nail polish. You actually want the cheap kind for this but not cheap because it cracks and falls off, cheap because you have to apply a million coats for it to look good on your fingernails. The specific one I've used on electronics for years is LA Girl Color Pop. So if you see that one get it, just don't use the color called "Amour" because that's my color and it's how I'm able to tell if I've worked on a piece of gear before lol. I'm kinda kidding about that but not really.
If you’re splicing power wires you can make it safer by keeping the 2 splices a centimeter away from each other just in case the black tape fails (good idea with those zip ties because electric tape always comes undone.)
Ya that would be a good idea!
I am a retired engineer and it would be a good idea to make up "Y" pieces for the connectors and also when you're drilling a hole through the tube and the BMS only drill a small 2mm pilot hole and then when it's apart use a step drill for more control.
Instead of drilling you could just remove the external battery connector and use its hole.
Makes no sense to run them in parallel because of the issue that you wait until the end of the video to mention (about not swapping the external battery once the internal falls below 20%). That's a fatal flaw in your design. I applaud you on the total design, the effort, and the great video. The scooter should only run from ONE battery at a time, completely using each battery and then switching to the next. That would be accomplished by installing a user initiated switch that activates either the internal OR externally mounted battery. That way a person could use ALL of the juice in the internal, then hit the switch to the external (completely bypassing the internal). You can then use all of the juice from the external battery and swap that one out to another to as many as you can carry. No need to worry about the 20% issue. You could keep your entire design but simply add a SWITCH between internal and external.
Great video.
joey mcdonald Good idea! It would just have to be a really big switch.
@@BananaScience why "really big" ?? You're just "switching" from the wires that go to the internal to a battery located externally. You would switch with the power off of course. There might even be a way to make an automatic switch, but that would be a bit more complicated.
@@powerpopjoey The switch would have to be able to take around 600-800w of power. (around 20a peak). You could probably make an automatic one using a relay and an arduino nano where it just detected the voltage and switched it over.
I thought the same. Which gave me the idea of having both batteries externally. Makes it easy to swap both batteries at the same time, and always run on the same pair keeping everything balanced.
SysGhost yup it would also allow you to put an additional ESC within the steering shaft tube and take advantage of the thermal capacity of the scooter frame to cool two ESCs for a dual wheel drive setup. We started designing a two battery setup but just stopped working on it as we had some other more interesting projects we wanted to finish up.
I love this setup. I have over 30 internal batteries and this makes it so much easier to Hot swap while I'm on the go. I can even use my 4amp charger without error. Some sort of cover for the external would be nice. With the heat here in Austin, my external battery temperature is often in excess of 110°
I connected a battery in the connector that tyrae for direct external battery and without connecting the bms and the scooter detects it and does not give the percentage of external battery but it works correctly and being in parallel they discharge at the same speed so with the percentage of internal battery you can be fine
You made it too confusing showing 2 ways to wire it and too many be careful and do this. Which setup were you wiring? Why did u remove the charge port on esc then put it back on? If you do step one wiring does anything even go to esc besides the original plugging in? Because I simply would like to know if I just splice on to the battery to the internal battery and plug it in like before.. ?? Wtf
I tried this now my scooter is in pieces and I don't think I can get it back together lmao 😂
Крутой проект, но есть замечание!
Он так показывает, заменить можно за 30 секунд, но блин, если подключить новую заряженную батарею параллельно разряженной - заряд начнет выравниваться между батареями, одна будет заряжаться безумными токами, другая разряжаться. Вполне может перегреться и бамбануть. Заменять батарею нет вообще ни какого смысла! Нужно использовать обе одновременно.
Maybe a bracket to make sure that both batteries are outside of the tube. Then have two spares in your back pack.
And Or:
A switch between the two different batteries.
Great tutorial! Thinking of doing the same for Air T15 but with aftermarket batteries; the OEM battery is 36V, 4650mAh. I prob want something equal to or less than 4650 to avoid over/under charge/drain. Also considering going with aftermarket for BOTH batteries with high capacity aftermarket (may need to dissemble OEM battery to get controller).
Quick question about the wiring schematic. The Air’s battery wiring is a bit different. It has the XT30 (2 pin), but also a JST (2 pin, looks like red and black) and 4 pin unknown connector but wires colors are red/white/yellow/green (can see plug via ebay Air T15 battery). Any guidance on if I can just use the XT30 and JST or do I need something from the unknown plug??
Super interesting stuff on the external battery front. So far you're the only one I've run into that has made a solution for this. Kudos!
As I'm sure you are aware, there's a significant problem for modded Segway ES4's where the hard wired auto brake engages when the unit goes above 32-36KMPH. I noticed the brakes were engaging at a higher rate of speed at a full charge and as I went below 95% charge it started to engage at lower speeds. This led me to believe this was a power issue.
I've been able to confirm it's a power issue by hooking up an external battery pack to the AC adapter that came with the scooter. While plugged in with additional battery pack I'm able to achieve speeds of 38KMPH without the brake engaging. However, there is a significant issue, when I stop the scooter it jumps into charge mode and in order to ride again I need to restart the scooter.
Can you think of a way I can add additional juice to my external battery using the power port? If not, I was thinking about registering the external battery that came with my es4 as well as an additional battery that would join the internal battery as if it's one battery. If that's not possible, then I'd likely scrap the external battery that I have and wire two additional internal batteries.
Would really love to get your feedback on this stuff. What do you think?
How you are able to charge two batteries which have two different BMS with only one charger?!…all I know is not recommended since each battery can charge differently
I was thinking a lot about a setup like this.
I also found the possibility to build a custom firmware and there is the possibility to remove the "power charging mod" that means that your scooter can be driven while charging.is In your opinion a problem plug an aux 36v(8/10ah) into the original charging port and drive the scooter... I mean... Could that affect the original battery, that one get discharge by the motor and charged by the external battery as the same time. Does that affect the life of the internal battery?
So...i want to know because you dont plug the wires with the external plug
Thanks for the video.
My understanding is that with the external battery adapter all that is left to do is wire the adapter to the new internal battery. Few questions.
- Does this successfully unlock the faster speed? It's not mentioned but I assume so.
- Will you offer the adapter on Ebay? I can find the holder but not the adapter (Canadian here).
- There aren't too many internal battery vendors on ebay or elsewhere. Is this temporary (Covid related) or are there very few distribution channels?
mate i think you the only can answer. I'm pretty sure answer is here in the comments but I seems too stupid, so basic internal and external batterys aren't in parallel? But still I better not use a multiply external batteries after I discharged internal coz then they gonna need to repalance and explode (based on comments)?
I have a non factory control board. They tend to fail too often. Is there a better board you recommend so to use this battery mod?
It looks like you have a real idea of the ninebot scooters. I have an ES1LD and it looks like everything is different about this scooter. I wanted to make it a little faster. The scooter has no bluetooth. The internal communication is probably not 115200 baud. There is no connection for an extra battery. And the engine is a more sensorless one. Are there also CFWs for this?
This doesn't really make sense for a "multiple battery setup". Won't swapping the external battery with a new one once dead lead to unbalanced voltage? The bms on the batteries will probably get blown because of the high voltage differences.
Check the comments below. I agree that it's a bit sketchy but it seems to have worked out okay and the BMS's over current protection is pretty effective.
there is already a connection to the outside via the standard battery holes (power / data / charge). why not just rewire those so the feed directly into the charge port and the speed controller instead of the dual battery wiring?
The scooter will detect an external battery error and won't move. The charge port is wired into the ESC with what looks like 20awg wire so it would melt if you tried to run the 400w necessary for an external battery through it.
BananaScience disconnect the current wiring for the stock external battery (xt style connector and a 4 pin connector). Then require the xt to the speed controller and use the 4 pin to wire to the balance leads
@@jman89 The scooter will read an external battery error. I think I talk a bit about this in the video.
BananaScience I understand it won’t work as wired, I probably did not explain it well. A picture would help
@@jman89 Feel free to contact us at banana.science.awesome@gmail.com if you want to send us photos and have a more detailed discussion.
Great video.
I'm looking for the info how I can add a THIRD battery to ES4, but hasn't found anything yet.
I think it is great way to extend the range by having third external battery, say in a backpack. Do you know anything about such thing, maybe you can make a video about it?
Hi, I wanting to do the same, did you have any progress? If positive please let me know how you did it
Does Dashboard and Circuit Board for an foldable (those ones that sells on eBay and Wish) work for the Segway-Ninebot ES4 non-foldable??? When I’m looking at the pictures everything looks the same as mine (except mine has a green cable that seems to go nowhere). I have asked several sellers on eBay and they say it will not work for the non-foldable. If not why?
Mine is an Segway-Ninebot ES4 non-foldable and branded with VOI.
Do you have any more information regarding the external battery adapter you linked to in your description? Possible to buy it directly from your store with all parts included?
There's more info on the thingiverse page linked in the description and I'll add it to our store at BananaScience.net right away. Thanks!
www.bananascience.net/product-page/ninebot-esx-external-battery-adapter-kit
Hi I have a ninebot es4, wanting to add a 3rd battery, connecting everything with a Dual Battery Discharge Converter Connection Adapter Switcher. Would the scooter reach faster speed and stronger torque?
Dear,i have my internal battery dead. Is it possible to wire external battery to internal connectors?
Juraj P. I don’t think so just as you can’t wire an internal battery into the external battery port.
Hi I need your help . I have changed my controller to a new one and on the new one there is 2charge+2UART connection for the battery but my battery has no UART(data) lines so I get the battery communication error . What can I do to use the new controller with my I believe ES1 battery without COM lines? Please help..Thanks
What are the Yellow and White wires for, which come from the battery? as I want to use a different battery in my ES2.
hello I wanted to ask if your external battery adapter for sale is valid only for the original internal battery used as an external secondary or it was also possible to adapt a new battery, I would have a broken xiaomi m365 battery and I would like to use it as an additional battery for the ninebot es2, could I connect the alternative in parallel by checking that they are at the same voltage?
one other random thought has anyone tried to do a AWD front and rear drive on a ES scooter? would be interesting if you have the available parts. I believe the front and rear tires are the same size.
Yup. We've done it but not in a clean package yet. Might make a video in the near future.
BananaScience it would also be cools if you give quantitive data. Stock firmware, 44000, 38000, stock external battery, your external battery). And show time to full speed or time to climb a consistent hill, etc
@@jman89 Since the Ninebot ES scooters already have so little power, I would just suggest running the lowest safe MPC for your scooter setup and weight. I'll see if I can put together some data though if I get time.
I have connected an internal battery on the external battery port, and works fine, doesn't give me error 42.
Could you please send us a photo of your setup to Banana.science.awesome@gmail.com please? That would be great if that’s possible.
Very good!!!!! How did you do it? Could you also send me photos of your work? 1000 thanks. Please send yours photos to prudinet@icloud.com
Sorry to be the third person to ask, but could you share some details? Either here or you can email me at izaakh(at)me(dot)com
sry I would like to know how you did at as well. Here is my email dominikanime@gmail.com thx
Hi, could you send me some details about your setup? Thanks ady_rap@hotmail.it
hello hello, could you send me the zip to edit the fimware for the second battery, the zip thank you
excellent work
Should I have information about longer distance to ride in ninebot aplication after this?
Can I run a ninebot controller off two internal batteries ? Then is this what this dose technically
Hi I no this is an old video but I’m wondering if you where able to charge the internal battery’s with a balance charger 3s one if so what setup how did you charge the battery?
I call it steering column
Hi.
Would it be possible to use the adaptor for external battery to connect a 36v battery from an ebike if i use the positive and negative wires?
why the hell wouldn't you remove the esc electronics before you drill the hole. that way there is 0 chance of any damage while drilling the hole.
Gillian Nicole Valid point! Thanks for the suggestion!
To confuse the fuck out of people
This f ing a hole wants everybody to fail that's why
Can you fit 3 battery’s ? To the same controller ?
Que ganas de complicarte la vida😂, los ingenieros de ninebot ya hicieron ese trabajo para añadir la batería externa sin tener que hacer nada pero aún así bien trabajo
Hello, do it on 21700 batteries!
Thank you for this
Hi, may I know if the original external battery is also connected in parallel with the internal battery like yours? The original/factory design will increase the maximum speed. How about this one?
TM HO The original external battery is connected to the internal one in parallel but through two N channel FETs which can regulate its power. This won’t increase your speed but will double your range. We are working on a video at the moment where we repurpose an internal battery as an official external battery.
Hey. I’m thinking of doing this to add 3 external batteries. An extra speed controller. Dashboard and rear motor to my ninebot.
Do you think that would work?
Did you end up doing this? I’m looking to add an additional external beyond the one I already have...
@@adamrice3286 i added 2 extra battery and a rear motor.. i blew something in it now my scooter doesn't work good.. i wouldn't mess with it.. get a ninebot max if you need more range.
plobem es2 not charging
How cai i get the batery. Two Black brackets.?
how do you charge the external battery?
You can charge it from the scooter or just wire in a 42v power supply into the charge wires.
?where ru locate,i want to bring my scooter to you for installation.
Do you have the 3d model for mount it on a M365 by XIaomi? Thanks!
Where are you finding these replacement batteries? I can't find even one in decent shape
he took em
What's the power of the ES4 External Battery Vs the Internal?
I'm unsure of the exact max amperage but I suspect they are pretty similar.
@@BananaScience How many do you have? External batteries for this project
@@STJrArmonte Heh... like 12 or something
do you think to adding 2 external batteries (TWO original ninebot battery)is easier?
do you think that would work?
Daca avem vrun roman care doreste sa cumpere acel adaptor din video, ma poate contacta. L-am printat si nu se potriveste pe modelul meu de trotineta.
А где взять Образец на 3д принтер
Что бы распечатать ?
my battery has a red light.
How could I solve it?
You Red Light means a bad cell. Either check each individual, or aquire a new battery.
The speed after this is the same or it is faster
Same speed but slightly increased torque due to the greater amp potential from an additional battery.
Have you guys figured out how to make a non foldable electric scooter into a foldable one??
it´s possible and quite easy, i made tha to 5 scooters already, all with the same methood.
@@cddamiao How did you do that?
@@cddamiao Can you give some info how to make it foldable? Here or oeriel@gmail.com
Nice
This is a ninebot sharing scooter.
Fuck this shit. Just gonna buy an external official
Timer+Blacktube+electric wires= Bomb defusing!
Im guessing you were awake for 2 weeks straight when you recorded this. About 90% of the information in this video is unnecessary. It's like you're trying your hardest to make people give up. BUT WHY??
Now I gotta go and get a LIME scooter and take off the battery for me
if you still have your es4 you could consider making this crazy mod ua-cam.com/video/LTFLTcCZzhU/v-deo.html
Store link not active?
Just fixed it. Sorry about that!
BananaScience How would I get in touch with you guys? I recently acquired an ES4 from an auction parts car and would like to get it up and running and find an OEM Dash or one that works well.
@@MisfitSince85 You can contact us through our website: www.bananascience.net/
Too much work 😂😂😂 i rather just get the Segway external battery. By the way i have 2 spare es2/4 external batteries i am selling out if anyone lives in NYC and it’s interested in
no tiene sentido.
Dude, you should not promote that kind of ideas. You CAN'T connect two batteries in parallel with different voltage potentials. A lot of stress for the batteries is least of your worries. There will be fire and smoke if the difference will be high enough.
Rafał K. Yes the internal battery will be under a lot of stress when a new external one is wired in. If these batteries were wired directly in parallel without a BMS it would undoubtably cause a gnarly fire (typical cell difference shouldn’t be above .2v). However, the integrated BMS regulates the charge current and prevents such a fire. I’ve done extensive testing on this and haven’t had any issues so far. When charging from 20% from a full external battery, the internal one doesn’t even get warm though it charges on and off as overcharge current protection kicks in and out until both batteries have reached a similar voltage.
@@BananaScience Did you try to wire second internal battery as an external one? Wouldn't it be recognized by the board as an external battery? Then you don't have to worry about voltage differences as there are two MosFETs on the board that are connecting the battery with higher voltage, and disconnecting the battery with lower voltage. 18650 batteries should be charged with 0,5 - 1C to prolong their life and for safety reasons. When you connect two batteries with voltage differences in paralel then you will charge the more drained one with full power of the BMS, probably around 30 - 40 amps, which is around 6C - 8C or more... this can't be good for both batteries. I would redesign the project :) I don't even charge my Lipo batteries which such power, and they are rated for 5C charging :)
@@webbpwYes we tried to wire an internal battery externally through the XT30 and mini molex connector which compose the external battery port. As we explained in the video, it detects the battery though reads out an external battery error. There is no MOSFET on the ESC that connects the external battery and disconnects the internal one if you wire in a fresh official external battery through the external battery port. They balance each other out just as they'd do if you were to wire them in parallel in our video. If you actually take a multi meter and measure the connectivity across the XT30 for your internal battery on your ESC and the XT30 on your external battery port, you will see that they are directly connected and not regulated by a MOSFET. Yes, this mod isn't the greatest for your batteries though when balancing out, the current between batteries rarely goes above 10a (assuming you don't wire in a fresh battery once your internal one is below 25%). Since the internal batteries are in a 10s 2p configuration and use EVE 26V model 18650s which suggest a 1c charge rate (2.55a), the balancing is only a little over 2c. Furthermore, the BMS on the internal battery cuts off charging if the current gets too high. I'm not saying this is a perfect (or safest) solution for a modular range extension but it's cheap, relatively easy compared to the alternatives, and has a multitude of safety features in place to prevent a lithium battery fire.
@@BananaScience check the board on the bottom side. And you will See that each of the xt30 plugs is connected to one of the first two mosfets. For sure they are connecting and dissconecting the batteries. No doubt about it. Maybe you were mesuring it when mosfets where in conductive state. Another thing is that you need to have two mosfets for each phase on the ESC so eight of them is not needed. Thats why first two are for what i wrote.
@@webbpw Thanks, I'll check it out. They are N channel FETs so I must have had it on when I measured (stupid me lol).