Dear Mr Hall, thank you for this very useful video of yours. It's a great pleasure to hear you and see how you work on video. Like many others no doubt, I learned to use my lathe and my milling machines thanks to your Lathework and Milling courses books. Also your Tool and cutter sharpening, Dividing and Metalworker's data books are on the shelf since years now and consulted regularly. Best regards from Brussels.
I'd like to say thanks for the videos, your books, and website. I just completed building this drill bit jig, and am also working on the advanced grinding rest. Of course I'll need to build your lining tool for the dials as well. And I have lots dull endmills so I'll need to build the endmill fixture too. I'm quite sure I won't stop with those. I've pretty much given up on buying a t&c grinder. Don't have the room for one in my tiny workshop, and they are more money than I can justify for a hobby. And building tools that are useful is very satisfying.
WOW what a gold mine you have of a website. Very clean and easy to flip through information. Absolutely wonderfully matching information with visuals that even I can follow along without scratching my head. . to hard. Ill be spending much time there and will definitely order some books. I've been searching for a smart jig some time and am grateful that I did not give up nor waste time on a jig that would decorate my drawer. This is also the first tutorial I've seen with 4 facets cuts and I've looked for quite some time. ... going to garage now and try to hand sharpen just to get a feel for it. .................... Just executed by hand without jig. A little of center but even so, the bit cut much easier and cleaner. And you can see the center edges of facets are much smaller to point. You have a lucky family... Thanks for your help Mister Hall !!
This jig seems to be a little complicated to adjust and use. I prefer the Tormek DBS-22 jig made for 4 facet sharpening I bought, and it's a lot easier and more practical to use. ua-cam.com/video/KqcMTxrIoPY/v-deo.html
" it's a lot easier and more practical to use" Have you used both? If not, then as an "Engineer" you should know that you do not have the experience required to make that statement. If you have used both, then a fair comparison would be to list the pros and cons of each, including the price. The Tormek jig costs $400 CAD and would need to be mounted on a Tormek grinder at a cost of $900 CAD. For a total cost of $1,300. The HH jig can be made for about $2 worth of scrap steel and his simple grinding rest can be made for about $5 worth of scrap steel. I've made both and can verify that they are capable of producing a drill bit that performs very well. Certainly much better than the original drill bits I was using and better than the 2 Drill Doctors I have. I cannot however compare it to the Tormek since I have no experience with it. But I can state that the sharpened drill bits produced by the HH jig and rest, look very much like the pictures on the link you provided. For a Hobbyist this information is invaluable and much appreciated. For a production shop, this may not be the best solution ..... but I'm sure Harold is not providing this information for the betterment of commercial operations and that is aim is for the betterment and assistance to hobby machinists, world wide. THANK YOU HAROLD!!!!!!!!!!
fixtures like this have always been a fascination for me four facet drills just cut like a razor hard metals like a hot knife through butter oh by the way I've watched a sum total of two of your videos and can see your going to pass on to me some valuable information thanks!
Very impressive, thank you very much for sharing this. I have a couple of your books from the workshop practise series and really like them. The videos (not just that one here, but all of them) complement them nicely.
Straight in with a 13mm drill with no pilot hole. Is that standard practice with a 4 facet ground drill bit ? I usually go up in 1/16" steps with my "as bought normal" drill bits. Would one also drill a 20mm 4 facet hole with no pilot hole ? Bill
Thanks for the question Bill. First we have to take into account that the chisel of a drill sharpened by the most common method removes the metal by a scraping action and therefore needs a lot of pressure to push the drill through the workpiece. The drilling machine must also have sufficient power for the task. Also, take note that the cutting edge on the helix will be attempting to pull the drill through the workpiece, therefore, the pressure needed is almost entirely a result of the drill having a chisel end. However, a drill sharpened by the four facet method has a a pointed end resulting in it starting, and then drilling, the part much more easily. So, yes, it is normal to drill a hole in one go, but with one overriding requirement, that is, has the machine sufficient power for the size of drill being used. With that information in mind can I suggest that you view the video again, as when I say “pointed end” it is a little more complex than that. Also, visit my website here www.homews.co.uk/page360.html where there is much more information on the four facet method than I can give here. Harold
You can drill pretty much any size hole without a pilot hole, it is just a matter of machine rigidity and power. For "normal" ground drills a divot is needed, as in use a spotting drill to get your hole location. And as Harold pointed out (no pun intended), the chisel is like shoving a flat headed screwdriver into the metal and because it doesn't cut, it requires quite a lot of force to push it in. But with a 4 facet grind there is less chisel and thus less power needed. One could even grind a little cutting angle on the chisel edge to get it even more easier to cut.
It's just a bench grinder, but Harold has trued the shafts on his lathe and mounted the grinding wheels on custom arbors so they can be swapped out without losing true. He covers this in detail in his excellent book "Milling, a complete course". Also in the book are instructions for the advanced grinding rest. His website is very thorough as well.
Thanks all for your comments. Unfortunately though, at 84 (2017), I now find it necessary to limit my involvement in my website and videos as the brain is not as agile as it once was. However, should you want to contact me, use the contact page on my website, here, www.homews.co.uk/page6.html . Do please read my comments there before posting. Harold
well...I personaly sharp em by hand...they dont come out so nkce as yours...buth they do the job just fine...imhom..this is a great video and great tool...buth afhter years of expirience yo all can do it just fine without anny tools
guter mann du bist bestimmt rentner. du hast unendlich zeit bohrer zu schärfen. aber deine methode dauert ja unendlich lange, da mach ich ja ner alten frau 3 kinder. das ist ja bestimmt nicht mehr zeiitgemäs dein verfahren.
Well this would be OK if you have nothing to do all day and wanted something to do, but far too slow and complicated if you were in the middle of a job and the drill was a bit blunt. Nip over to the offhand grinder and hand sharpen it as I was Taught as an apprentice over 50 Years ago. Ever so easy to do after being shown how and a few trial goes, once you learn how it is as simple as walking down the street, you will never forget.
Sorry Michael St John but you have obviously missunderstood some of my comments throughout this video, as eliminating the chisel is exactly what I have done. However, there is more to the result than this as the chisel is replaced by a pointed end which you do not mention. One advantage of this is that drills can start without using a centre punch. Can I please suggest you carefully study my drawings, particularly the second copy of the "Primary Clearance Ground Correctly" drawing, which highlights the pointed end with an arrow. For a good example of the final results, ignore the two drills being compared and look at the end of the drill clamped in the jig. Harold Hall
Sir. Quite possibly one of the best videos on UA-cam. Thank you - sincerely.
Very reliable analysis about the geometry of the sharpening,it makes change with numerous rough methods seen on youtube ! Thanks.
This video was incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Dear Mr Hall, thank you for this very useful video of yours. It's a great pleasure to hear you and see how you work on video. Like many others no doubt, I learned to use my lathe and my milling machines thanks to your Lathework and Milling courses books. Also your Tool and cutter sharpening, Dividing and Metalworker's data books are on the shelf since years now and consulted regularly. Best regards from Brussels.
I'd like to say thanks for the videos, your books, and website. I just completed building this drill bit jig, and am also working on the advanced grinding rest. Of course I'll need to build your lining tool for the dials as well. And I have lots dull endmills so I'll need to build the endmill fixture too. I'm quite sure I won't stop with those. I've pretty much given up on buying a t&c grinder. Don't have the room for one in my tiny workshop, and they are more money than I can justify for a hobby. And building tools that are useful is very satisfying.
WOW what a gold mine you have of a website. Very clean and easy to flip through information. Absolutely wonderfully matching information with visuals that even I can follow along without scratching my head. . to hard.
Ill be spending much time there and will definitely order some books.
I've been searching for a smart jig some time and am grateful that I did not give up nor waste time on a jig that would decorate my drawer. This is also the first tutorial I've seen with 4 facets cuts and I've looked for quite some time. ... going to garage now and try to hand sharpen just to get a feel for it.
.................... Just executed by hand without jig. A little of center but even so, the bit cut much easier and cleaner. And you can see the center edges of facets are much smaller to point.
You have a lucky family... Thanks for your help Mister Hall !!
This jig seems to be a little complicated to adjust and use. I prefer the Tormek DBS-22 jig made for 4 facet sharpening I bought, and it's a lot easier and more practical to use.
ua-cam.com/video/KqcMTxrIoPY/v-deo.html
" it's a lot easier and more practical to use"
Have you used both? If not, then as an "Engineer" you should know that you do not have the experience required to make that statement. If you have used both, then a fair comparison would be to list the pros and cons of each, including the price. The Tormek jig costs $400 CAD and would need to be mounted on a Tormek grinder at a cost of $900 CAD. For a total cost of $1,300. The HH jig can be made for about $2 worth of scrap steel and his simple grinding rest can be made for about $5 worth of scrap steel. I've made both and can verify that they are capable of producing a drill bit that performs very well. Certainly much better than the original drill bits I was using and better than the 2 Drill Doctors I have. I cannot however compare it to the Tormek since I have no experience with it. But I can state that the sharpened drill bits produced by the HH jig and rest, look very much like the pictures on the link you provided.
For a Hobbyist this information is invaluable and much appreciated. For a production shop, this may not be the best solution ..... but I'm sure Harold is not providing this information for the betterment of commercial operations and that is aim is for the betterment and assistance to hobby machinists, world wide.
THANK YOU HAROLD!!!!!!!!!!
fixtures like this have always been a fascination for me four facet drills just cut like a razor hard metals like a hot knife through butter oh by the way I've watched a sum total of two of your videos and can see your going to pass on to me some valuable information thanks!
Very impressive, thank you very much for sharing this. I have a couple of your books from the workshop practise series and really like them. The videos (not just that one here, but all of them) complement them nicely.
A brilliant jig. Wish I saw this years ago. I would like to make the same jig.
Congratulations for such clever and useful tools !!!
Such an amazing channel! How come YT only suggested it just today? I guess todays to-do list consists binge watching only...
Greg
thanks for the explanation !
This device is exactly what I'm looking for. Do any manufacturing documents still exist?
how is the drill bit aligned when turning over, is it visually done or is there some alignment pin etc.
question answered further in the video.. thanks
Alttaki tabyayı nasıl yaptınız. Video var mı?
Straight in with a 13mm drill with no pilot hole. Is that standard practice with a 4 facet ground drill bit ? I usually go up in 1/16" steps with my "as bought normal" drill bits. Would one also drill a 20mm 4 facet hole with no pilot hole ?
Bill
Thanks for the question
Bill.
First we have to take into account that the chisel of a drill sharpened by the most common method removes the metal by a scraping action and therefore needs a lot of pressure to push the drill through the workpiece. The drilling machine must also have sufficient power for the task.
Also, take note that the cutting edge on the helix will be attempting to pull the drill through the workpiece, therefore, the pressure needed is almost entirely a result of the drill having a chisel end.
However, a drill sharpened by the four facet method has a a pointed end resulting in it starting, and then drilling, the part much more easily.
So, yes, it is normal to drill a hole in one go, but with one overriding requirement, that is, has the machine sufficient power for the size of drill being
used.
With that information in mind can I suggest that you view the video again, as when I say “pointed end” it is a little more complex than that. Also, visit my website here www.homews.co.uk/page360.html where there is much more information on the four facet method than I can give here.
Harold
You can drill pretty much any size hole without a pilot hole, it is just a matter of machine rigidity and power. For "normal" ground drills a divot is needed, as in use a spotting drill to get your hole location.
And as Harold pointed out (no pun intended), the chisel is like shoving a flat headed screwdriver into the metal and because it doesn't cut, it requires quite a lot of force to push it in. But with a 4 facet grind there is less chisel and thus less power needed. One could even grind a little cutting angle on the chisel edge to get it even more easier to cut.
Thank you
does any one can explain the name of all a part by jig in this video? please reply me, soon
What kind of drill bit sharpening motor tool is that?
It's just a bench grinder, but Harold has trued the shafts on his lathe and mounted the grinding wheels on custom arbors so they can be swapped out without losing true. He covers this in detail in his excellent book "Milling, a complete course". Also in the book are instructions for the advanced grinding rest. His website is very thorough as well.
Excellent Information & Demonstration.
Thank you.
Thanks all for your comments. Unfortunately though, at 84 (2017), I now find it necessary to limit my involvement in my website and videos as the brain is not as agile as it once was.
However, should you want to contact me, use the contact page on my website, here, www.homews.co.uk/page6.html . Do please read my comments there before posting.
Harold
The stuff i like to see.
Thanks
Muito bom...
Obrigado Harold
heart bleeds for the shaky hands, me too, no old surgeons lol
Is there a place I can buy this jig?
I was a tool and cutter grinder. This doesn't do anything
well...I personaly sharp em by hand...they dont come out so nkce as yours...buth they do the job just fine...imhom..this is a great video and great tool...buth afhter years of expirience yo all can do it just fine without anny tools
guter mann du bist bestimmt rentner. du hast unendlich zeit bohrer zu schärfen. aber deine methode dauert ja unendlich lange, da mach ich ja ner alten frau 3 kinder. das ist ja bestimmt nicht mehr zeiitgemäs dein verfahren.
Well this would be OK if you have nothing to do all day and wanted something to do, but far too slow and complicated if you were in the middle of a job and the drill was a bit blunt. Nip over to the offhand grinder and hand sharpen it as I was Taught as an apprentice over 50 Years ago. Ever so easy to do after being shown how and a few trial goes, once you learn how it is as simple as walking down the street, you will never forget.
Wrong! Wrong! Wrong! True 4 facet drill sharpening is not just four facets but is designed to completely eliminate the chisel point!!!
Sorry Michael St John but you have obviously missunderstood some of my comments throughout this video, as eliminating the chisel is exactly what I have done. However, there is more to the result than this as the chisel is replaced by a pointed end which you do not mention. One advantage of this is that drills can start without using a centre punch.
Can I please suggest you carefully study my drawings, particularly the second copy of the "Primary Clearance Ground Correctly" drawing, which highlights the pointed end with an arrow.
For a good example of the final results, ignore the two drills being compared and look at the end of the drill clamped in the jig.
Harold Hall
guys sounds like hes 95
you sound like you are not very smart