This video was extremely helpful. When they built my house in 85', they just put a hole in the sheet rock and ran the wires through to the crappy light bar. Looks like there is still some repair work that needs to be done, but it looks way better with the box in there and the new light installed. Thank you!
Your video was outstanding. It showed me exactly what I need to do, and with which products, to hang new light fixtures in a bathroom. Thank you so much!
Another helpful video. I'm mounting on a wall to light fixtures and the locations are butted up against studs. So that Smartwire box will work. One thing to note: The link to Amazon for the box you used takes you to a different box. That model is MSBFAN and it has two threaded rods (assuming for ceiling fans?). I bought two of them and then realized the mounting plate for the light fixtures are obstructed by the rods. I found the box you used at a local big box and will get those tomorrow. A minor detail but worthy of you being aware. Thanks again for your videos. My wife and I really enjoy them.
Nice lesson! I remember the first time I changed a vanity light. I though it would be badda bing badda boom and done. Wrong! What a nightmare! Wish I’d had this video then,but, that was 30 years ago!
On most videos you deliver, I have something nit-picky to say about how it could have been done a little easier, faster or better. For this video I am in full agreement with your approach. Thank you, excellent job IMO.
This a very clean pro video. I have installed few of the vanity lights and now I prefer the wago connector than the twist ones. I used a wire hanger to hold the light. Thank you for sharing
Great idea putting the Wago connectors on first! Last week I was on a 16’ ladder installing a fixture and dropped my wire nut - twice! I need to go from one vanity light to two lights. Do you have a video available to tutor me in this process? Thank you!
At 4:43, it actually IS acceptable to have the romex (NM) directly enter the fixture plate IF a proper cable clamp fitting is installed on the fixture plate. When the fixture is fully assembled, it is considered like a box/enclosure.
@@markg7558 I don’t doubt that; I’ve seen plenty of corners cut by electricians. But the fact remains there is a right way to do things (code), and just because a pro doesn’t follow that, it doesn’t make it acceptable.
Show me the the code reference that says you can't use a fixture that is UL APPROVED to do so, to make the joint inside the fixure housing. It's done all the time in new construction where there's strict inspectors passing it every day. And all the ones I've done have either come with a grommet or I've just added my own.
How do we know when we need the grounding pigtail? Is it necessary when there's only one device we're finding power to? And how did you connect it? The video was great, and I leaned a lot of what I needed to know. I'm dumbfounded on why the box wasn't already mounted in there in the first place since the house is 20 years old.
Old Box thicker walls tip.... Remodeling our 1913 house it has 1 inch boards over studs and then drywall... Just match the screws that work the flaps with longer hardware... Any hardware store stocks then in my experience. Retired Trim guy.
11:22 Never hammer in an old-work (remodel) box of any type into drywall. The interference will break out the back of the drywall and then interfere with the mounting tabs. The fit should be a clearance fit; Always.
Super helpful - I definitely need the box - have an old light like you mentioned with no box - just wires hanging out and attached to drywall. My issue is that there is no grounding wire or box - is this going to be a safety issue? I will install the box but don't know what to do about not having a grounding wire
Thanks! I usually level off the bolts before tightening and installing the fixture. But I get the fixture can be off... maybe I've been lucky over the 11 units I have done. Lol
In my bathroom the vanity light was hanging without a junction box on the wall so I planned to have it done, but I ran into a kind of issue that there was a duct behind the wall and there was not enough room for a thicker junction box. I ended up buying a plastic pancake box and it worked pretty well.
Nice video! Thank you! It is good that you didn’t install the shallow “pancake” electrical box as actually it does meet NEC electrical code because of wire capacity. In fact, 14/2 wire is just over the volume wire size of the box and 12/2 is way over the volume wire size in this shallow box.
Be careful at 7:30, in the US a 1/2" pancake is only rated for 6 cu.in. of fill, so a 12/2 Romex cable will not pass inspection, only a single 14/2 cable.
Man thanks for this video. I recently installed one, and of course no box, just wire out of the wall. I did get it installed, but a pain getting the wire to hide underneath in just the space of the fixture. Also like your fixture on the right, if you get one of these fancy LED with the side glass, you have to put the fixture together before you mount it to the wall. (ask me how I know) I had to go through the pain twice. It's up, looks great, but I would prefer the box instead of my wires being against the sheetrock. I know it could be a fire hazard, oh well it went the first 35 years that way. I will fix it if I ever paint or have a reason to pull it down.
I have the same vanity lights, but with 3 bulbs (LED equivalent to 60W) it is way too bright, yet you installed SIX bulbs in one washroom! I tried various dimmers with dimmable LEDs including dimmers rated specifically for use with LEDs, but the lights wouldn't stay OFF (most often the center bulb glowed while the other two were off, and I tried switching around the bulbs, always with the same result). If you wired the 6 bulbs to one dimmer then they would probably stay off, if the dimmer has a neutral connection and is designed for LED bulbs. Eventually I just installed a relay switch, giving up on the dimming option. The downward glare was objectionable, so I rotated the fixture so that the bowls point upward, reflecting light off the white ceiling. That got rid of the glare, but it's still too much light, and has the disadvantage that dust will accumulate in the fixture bowls.
Thank you for the video My question is if I have a 6 light bar is it possible to install a new shorter lights bar with only 3 or 4 lights bar Thank you
Hey Scott. Another Scott here. I know this video is older, but I'm hoping you still check it for comments. I have an existing 2 sink 2 light setup much as shown here, with similar cheap off the shelf lights. I have purchased new lights with smaller bases than the large plates, designed (I think) to be centered over the boxes. So here's the problem: the existing old work boxes aren't centered over the mirrors/sinks. Measuring off an existing outlet in between, each is roughly 16" to either side, which tells me they just attached to the most convenient stud, without sweating about the centering. I suspect one is to the left of its stud, one to the right, though I'm not in a position to check it as I write this. Each light needs to be moved about 3" to be centered. Is there an easy fix for this? My skill set includes switches, outlets, fans, etc, but not drywall. Maybe this will prove a subject for a video.😎
🤔, I honestly didn’t know that and going to have to poke around a bit to see if any lights have the “box equivalent volume” called out as a feature. Appreciate the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I imagine that may be the case given how many fixtures are like that, though my thought process is that placing a j-box isn't difficult and gives you more verstaility in choosing a fixture. I recently replaced a vanity in a family members bathroom, and besides no j-box being present, the romex sheathing from the 14-2 was either non-existent or stripped so far back that it wasn't visible even making a 4" hole for an old-work box. Do you know why code requries 1/4" sheathing to be present in in the j-box? Is it to prevent a fire from spreading outside the junction box? Or is it to protect the romex against the clamps? One is more dangerous than the other, but I don't want to immediately call it fact if it isn't.
Box equivalent volume is my phrasing, it's not an official term. Essentially I'm saying the fixture must be rated for it. Many metal fixtures are. Why I say volume is that NEC requires a certain box fill on j boxes and fixtures must still comply with that.
Hi Scott, thanks for posting this informative video! Super helpful :) I was wondering if you know how difficult it is to install a vanity light in a bathroom that doesn't have one at all! We just moved in about 3 months ago and the lighting situation is very dim (pun intended 😅). So I wanted to install a vanity light to brighten it up a bit, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to run wires and that. I know I will need the help of an electriction. I'm hoping it's not too messy or difficult since we just got the walls painted.
Every situation is different. If you have an outlet near where the wire can run, you can use power from it and add a switch. Otherwise you need to cut the drywall out so the studs can be drilled through.
@@adamplummer2190 I was just about to say this. I did a bit of apartment restoration when working with my former property management company and learned a little about these things. If there is no wiring, it will be a bit more work on cutting the drywall, replacing the area, and painting over it. It should not be too big of a mess.
I show up on Scott's channel, absorb the information and pretend to be competent for folks that have no idea that Everyday Home Repairs is available on UA-cam!
Careful -- I believe that box with the tabs that you said is for the ceiling is actually only specified for a vanity light in the wall. At least, the ones I looked at were, and I had to get one that had metal "wings" instead. Hmm, now that I look, I see some with the plastic tabs that say they are OK for ceiling installation, but I'm sure what I was looking at at the time was not...
Excellent information, I have one issue. Once I got the new vanity out of the box there is the white wire then there is a black wire, but there is one out of the 3 black wires joined together with a 3 white wires. What do I do?
What are the dangers or downsides to only grounding the metal bracket and electrical box? Since the light fixture is also metal and is attached to the grounded bracket, isn't it grounded anyway?
I've got a small bathroom that only has a lightning the ceiling but want to install a vanity light. How difficult is this and how do I go about doing it? There is a GFCI next to the sink can I run wire from there or do I have to pull all new wire
Great video! Your fixture has many wires. On the first fixture, I see you using the wagos for just one of each wire? What did you do with the other wires?
The wires coming from each light socket are already connected together at the factory. That's what you see going into those clear wire connector caps. Out of those come the pigtails that connect via the Wagos to what is coming out of the wall.
While watching this a question comes to mind: The last few years I have been using bulb and socket lube on the bulbs when installing them into the fixture. I have come across a few light sockets that it is both difficult to install and remove the bulbs. The lube really helps but have not seen any comments one way or the other regarding the lube. Just asking for an opinion. Thanks for your videos. One of your videos got be out of a furnace thermostat problem a few weeks ago.
@@jaykoerner I got it at Menards. Called: Act 2 Bulb & Socket Lube Stop The Sticking! Shallow orange plastic container. I have a socket in the bathroom that when changing the bulb the glass separated from the socket because it unscrewed so hard. Felt like there was grit in the socket. No problems since using the lube. FYI
I appreciate your videos, the only feedback I can give here is that your arms are in the way of your work. Maybe you can redo this video with a different camera angle to make sure we can see what you're doing the entire time. Thank you! 👍🏻🙂
Replacing a bathroom vanity light, but cant find one with it's own switch. The old one had it's own switch and socket and therefore did not need a wall switch. Bathroom has ceramic tiles on concrete walls. Power is supplied via a juncion box in wall. Do not wish to cut tiles. Dont they sell vanity lights with own switch and socket any more? How do I do this?
he didn't ground the plastic box, he replaced the ground screw that came on the metal bracket for the fixture with a ground screw with an included green insulated conductor.
Perfect video explaining all the options. How about a video on replacing a ceiling light with a fan light combo without using a remote control.... Included the use of the fan boxes required.
@@billy9075 This video didn't have any fans in it but speaking of fans, I installed WiFi controls in all 8 of my ceiling fans. I can turn on any fan to any speed and the light by voice. Alexa has groups, all, 1st floor & 2nd floor . All fans also have a remote control for when the internet is down & they all have timers (1-2-4-8 hours) to turn them off if you so choose. My vanity lights are also voice activated & I can turn 1, 2, 3 or all at once and all are dim-able.
I know Wago connectors are the way to go but folks have been mispronouncing it. Did not realize they were such a big company. Interesting info here about them. Check out this other UA-cam video : ua-cam.com/video/-hAY8_v2XAw/v-deo.html
And Volkswagon is supposed to be pronounced with an F and V, not V and W but try getting everyone to change. Now for the bonus round, pronounce the Polish city of Wrocław.
I find it hilarious that there is no regard for the wires against the sharp edges of the pivoting bracket through the wall but they forbid the wires going through the plain bracket because of "chafing".
My suspicion is that the Romex cables are seen as more permanent and more "sacred" in terms of keeping them undamaged. Someone might one day do a replacement like he just did here and unknowingly tuck a damaged section of Romex back into the wall.
So as a novice trying to just install a new vanity light it would be way more helpful to spend more time talking about the neutral and ground and hot wires and how you're connecting them with the Wago connectors rather than flying through this part with your hands in the way. Especially since the wiring is the most important part of it! I thought it was a great video up until the part that I actually needed to learn about. Sorry, just frustrated because I have to go and find another video that's going to show me, with more clarity, about the wiring and connection peocess so I don't mess things up set my house on fire or short out my system. Dang it.😒
I would not have used the "screwdriver depth gauge" for the right hand box....why not measure up to the right height and then punch your hole with the jab saw and cut over to the stud? No measuring and foolproof.
Please!!!!!!! People for first timers. This video was not 100 % accurate. He should have before anything first turn OFF POWER!! From breakerbox insuring power is off. Watch more videos like this before doing a job like these.
You are incorrect. If the light fixture is enclosed and the proper connectors are used you are allowed to omit the box. We do this all the time and I've never had one to fail inspection. 300.15 (J) Luminaires. A box or conduit body shall not be required where a luminaire is used as a raceway as permitted in 410.64. 410.64(A) Listed. Luminaires listed and marked for use as a raceway shall be permitted to be used as a raceway.
Thanks for the feedback and I need to investigate further on which vanity lights are approved to be a raceway. I always assumed this was limited to the utility lights you often see in a garage with 48” fluorescent or LED bulbs.
It doesn't matter how their game is pronounced their company sucks. I used to work there their product like be good but worst drive I ever had! I refuse to buy their products just because of that. Ideal as their own product which is the exact same I'll buy theirs instead.
hey Scott had appreciated if you could get patreon to either allow me to make a contribution to your Channel or at least make an annual contribution to your Channel either way I want to send some money your your way
People like medicine cabinets. I don't understand the modern trend of designing bathrooms with mirrors that don't have medicine cabinets. Where are you supposed to put all that junk?
I wouldn't used the lever connectors on a high amperage draw situation, such as a receptacle that a space heater is plugged into. I've seen them melted right off. Great for these lighting hookups though.
That retro box don’t work for flush sconces lights allays if 1/8” or some times 1/4” off from the wall so this demonstration it’s for old school vanity light
This video was extremely helpful. When they built my house in 85', they just put a hole in the sheet rock and ran the wires through to the crappy light bar. Looks like there is still some repair work that needs to be done, but it looks way better with the box in there and the new light installed. Thank you!
Your video was outstanding. It showed me exactly what I need to do, and with which products, to hang new light fixtures in a bathroom. Thank you so much!
Another helpful video. I'm mounting on a wall to light fixtures and the locations are butted up against studs. So that Smartwire box will work. One thing to note: The link to Amazon for the box you used takes you to a different box. That model is MSBFAN and it has two threaded rods (assuming for ceiling fans?). I bought two of them and then realized the mounting plate for the light fixtures are obstructed by the rods. I found the box you used at a local big box and will get those tomorrow. A minor detail but worthy of you being aware. Thanks again for your videos. My wife and I really enjoy them.
Nice lesson! I remember the first time I changed a vanity light. I though it would be badda bing badda boom and done. Wrong! What a nightmare! Wish I’d had this video then,but, that was 30 years ago!
On most videos you deliver, I have something nit-picky to say about how it could have been done a little easier, faster or better. For this video I am in full agreement with your approach. Thank you, excellent job IMO.
It's good to know all of the options & how to use them for these projects!
Great video! Very easy to follow. I would also like to see instructions on how to split one light fixture into two. Thx!!!
This a very clean pro video. I have installed few of the vanity lights and now I prefer the wago connector than the twist ones. I used a wire hanger to hold the light. Thank you for sharing
I found the exact type of connector that I needed. And it WORKED!!! Thanks!
We actually recently purchased the exact same light fixture to replace the exact same light fixture with the same long panel. Perfect video.
Great idea putting the Wago connectors on first! Last week I was on a 16’ ladder installing a fixture and dropped my wire nut - twice!
I need to go from one vanity light to two lights. Do you have a video available to tutor me in this process? Thank you!
At 4:43, it actually IS acceptable to have the romex (NM) directly enter the fixture plate IF a proper cable clamp fitting is installed on the fixture plate. When the fixture is fully assembled, it is considered like a box/enclosure.
In all my years of remodeling i've never seen any electrician use a cable clamp fitting on fixtures like that.
@@markg7558 I don’t doubt that; I’ve seen plenty of corners cut by electricians. But the fact remains there is a right way to do things (code), and just because a pro doesn’t follow that, it doesn’t make it acceptable.
Show me the the code reference that says you can't use a fixture that is UL APPROVED to do so, to make the joint inside the fixure housing. It's done all the time in new construction where there's strict inspectors passing it every day. And all the ones I've done have either come with a grommet or I've just added my own.
Show more of installing wiring
a million thank you’s, so glad i find this!!
This was very helpful for me. Thank you for sharing the video.
Love your explanations, i.e. Plain and simple.
Super helpful video! Thank you so much, Scott!!!
Thanks for the very thorough video! Most helpful.
Excellent information. Thanks so much!
Very timely and needed. Thank you.
How do we know when we need the grounding pigtail? Is it necessary when there's only one device we're finding power to? And how did you connect it? The video was great, and I leaned a lot of what I needed to know. I'm dumbfounded on why the box wasn't already mounted in there in the first place since the house is 20 years old.
Another great fix. Thanks
Old Box thicker walls tip.... Remodeling our 1913 house it has 1 inch boards over studs and then drywall... Just match the screws that work the flaps with longer hardware... Any hardware store stocks then in my experience. Retired Trim guy.
Great video and very thorough. Thank you!
11:22 Never hammer in an old-work (remodel) box of any type into drywall. The interference will break out the back of the drywall and then interfere with the mounting tabs. The fit should be a clearance fit; Always.
Thanks for the feedback!
Nice video with all the options!
Super helpful - I definitely need the box - have an old light like you mentioned with no box - just wires hanging out and attached to drywall. My issue is that there is no grounding wire or box - is this going to be a safety issue? I will install the box but don't know what to do about not having a grounding wire
Thanks!
I usually level off the bolts before tightening and installing the fixture. But I get the fixture can be off... maybe I've been lucky over the 11 units I have done. Lol
In my bathroom the vanity light was hanging without a junction box on the wall so I planned to have it done, but I ran into a kind of issue that there was a duct behind the wall and there was not enough room for a thicker junction box. I ended up buying a plastic pancake box and it worked pretty well.
If you have a strip fixture like these you don’t need a box the fixture is the junction box
Nice video! Thank you! It is good that you didn’t install the shallow “pancake” electrical box as actually it does meet NEC electrical code because of wire capacity. In fact, 14/2 wire is just over the volume wire size of the box and 12/2 is way over the volume wire size in this shallow box.
I mentioned to say, does not meet NEC electrical code. Sorry about that!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Be careful at 7:30, in the US a 1/2" pancake is only rated for 6 cu.in. of fill, so a 12/2 Romex cable will not pass inspection, only a single 14/2 cable.
Man thanks for this video. I recently installed one, and of course no box, just wire out of the wall. I did get it installed, but a pain getting the wire to hide underneath in just the space of the fixture. Also like your fixture on the right, if you get one of these fancy LED with the side glass, you have to put the fixture together before you mount it to the wall. (ask me how I know) I had to go through the pain twice. It's up, looks great, but I would prefer the box instead of my wires being against the sheetrock. I know it could be a fire hazard, oh well it went the first 35 years that way. I will fix it if I ever paint or have a reason to pull it down.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
The drywall, sheet rock will not hurt your wire it’s fine to just run the wire straight into strip fixtures like these
But you do need a connector or a grommet to protect the wire so it’s not rubbing on the back plate
First! Thanks for the video! Will use for reference later on.
Awesome, thanks for the support 👍
Very helpful video!
Thanks!
I have the same vanity lights, but with 3 bulbs (LED equivalent to 60W) it is way too bright, yet you installed SIX bulbs in one washroom! I tried various dimmers with dimmable LEDs including dimmers rated specifically for use with LEDs, but the lights wouldn't stay OFF (most often the center bulb glowed while the other two were off, and I tried switching around the bulbs, always with the same result). If you wired the 6 bulbs to one dimmer then they would probably stay off, if the dimmer has a neutral connection and is designed for LED bulbs. Eventually I just installed a relay switch, giving up on the dimming option. The downward glare was objectionable, so I rotated the fixture so that the bowls point upward, reflecting light off the white ceiling. That got rid of the glare, but it's still too much light, and has the disadvantage that dust will accumulate in the fixture bowls.
Use 25W or 40W equivalents? I have two two-light fixtures and installed both a dimmer and 40W bulbs.
Great video and information. Thanks and have a great day.
Thanks and you too 👍
excelent job, thank you for sharing.
i have a question about your wire cutter, brand label??
🤗👍 GOOD JOB EXPLAINING,SCOTT 😍😍😍
Thank you for the video
My question is if I have a 6 light bar is it possible to install a new shorter lights bar with only 3 or 4 lights bar
Thank you
Hey Scott.
Another Scott here.
I know this video is older, but I'm hoping you still check it for comments.
I have an existing 2 sink 2 light setup much as shown here, with similar cheap off the shelf lights. I have purchased new lights with smaller bases than the large plates, designed (I think) to be centered over the boxes.
So here's the problem: the existing old work boxes aren't centered over the mirrors/sinks. Measuring off an existing outlet in between, each is roughly 16" to either side, which tells me they just attached to the most convenient stud, without sweating about the centering. I suspect one is to the left of its stud, one to the right, though I'm not in a position to check it as I write this. Each light needs to be moved about 3" to be centered.
Is there an easy fix for this?
My skill set includes switches, outlets, fans, etc, but not drywall.
Maybe this will prove a subject for a video.😎
It's fine to not have a junction box if the fixture is rated with a box equivalent volume. You do need a cable connector to prevent chafing though.
🤔, I honestly didn’t know that and going to have to poke around a bit to see if any lights have the “box equivalent volume” called out as a feature. Appreciate the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I imagine that may be the case given how many fixtures are like that, though my thought process is that placing a j-box isn't difficult and gives you more verstaility in choosing a fixture.
I recently replaced a vanity in a family members bathroom, and besides no j-box being present, the romex sheathing from the 14-2 was either non-existent or stripped so far back that it wasn't visible even making a 4" hole for an old-work box. Do you know why code requries 1/4" sheathing to be present in in the j-box? Is it to prevent a fire from spreading outside the junction box? Or is it to protect the romex against the clamps? One is more dangerous than the other, but I don't want to immediately call it fact if it isn't.
"...a box equivalent volume." - Can someone please tell me what that means?
Box equivalent volume is my phrasing, it's not an official term. Essentially I'm saying the fixture must be rated for it. Many metal fixtures are. Why I say volume is that NEC requires a certain box fill on j boxes and fixtures must still comply with that.
Hi Scott, thanks for posting this informative video! Super helpful :) I was wondering if you know how difficult it is to install a vanity light in a bathroom that doesn't have one at all! We just moved in about 3 months ago and the lighting situation is very dim (pun intended 😅). So I wanted to install a vanity light to brighten it up a bit, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to run wires and that. I know I will need the help of an electriction. I'm hoping it's not too messy or difficult since we just got the walls painted.
For all his supposedly expertise, he didn't answer because I don't believe he have a clue
Every situation is different. If you have an outlet near where the wire can run, you can use power from it and add a switch. Otherwise you need to cut the drywall out so the studs can be drilled through.
@@adamplummer2190 I was just about to say this. I did a bit of apartment restoration when working with my former property management company and learned a little about these things. If there is no wiring, it will be a bit more work on cutting the drywall, replacing the area, and painting over it. It should not be too big of a mess.
Awesome as always.Love your videos
I show up on Scott's channel, absorb the information and pretend to be competent for folks that have no idea that Everyday Home Repairs is available on UA-cam!
Really good video
Thanks Michael 👍
Careful -- I believe that box with the tabs that you said is for the ceiling is actually only specified for a vanity light in the wall. At least, the ones I looked at were, and I had to get one that had metal "wings" instead.
Hmm, now that I look, I see some with the plastic tabs that say they are OK for ceiling installation, but I'm sure what I was looking at at the time was not...
Just found your channel and subscribed great video’s looking forward to many more.
Excellent information, I have one issue. Once I got the new vanity out of the box there is the white wire then there is a black wire, but there is one out of the 3 black wires joined together with a 3 white wires. What do I do?
I’m fixing to do this project in my renovated bathroom! Again thank you so much! Awesome channel
Thanks buddy!
Excellent. Thanks.
What are the dangers or downsides to only grounding the metal bracket and electrical box? Since the light fixture is also metal and is attached to the grounded bracket, isn't it grounded anyway?
I've got a small bathroom that only has a lightning the ceiling but want to install a vanity light. How difficult is this and how do I go about doing it? There is a GFCI next to the sink can I run wire from there or do I have to pull all new wire
Hi im hanging my vanity light but my light is sagging what is this due too?
Thank you!
You bet!
Pegboard or slot organizer for my workbench hutch I'm designing?
Great video! Your fixture has many wires. On the first fixture, I see you using the wagos for just one of each wire? What did you do with the other wires?
The wires coming from each light socket are already connected together at the factory. That's what you see going into those clear wire connector caps. Out of those come the pigtails that connect via the Wagos to what is coming out of the wall.
I have a fixture in which I need to extend out over my medicine cabinet here how would I do this? Thanks!
I just wish I can see how you fished/ wired the connecting (2 sets of) Romex to the new side on the right hand side.
awesome
While watching this a question comes to mind: The last few years I have been using bulb and socket lube on the bulbs when installing them into the fixture. I have come across a few light sockets that it is both difficult to install and remove the bulbs. The lube really helps but have not seen any comments one way or the other regarding the lube. Just asking for an opinion. Thanks for your videos. One of your videos got be out of a furnace thermostat problem a few weeks ago.
Bulb and socket lube? What is that - just dialectic Grease? I would assume that is what it's called,but have never heard that term used for it
@@jaykoerner I got it at Menards. Called: Act 2 Bulb & Socket Lube Stop The Sticking! Shallow orange plastic container. I have a socket in the bathroom that when changing the bulb the glass separated from the socket because it unscrewed so hard. Felt like there was grit in the socket. No problems since using the lube. FYI
Exactly how, by what mechanism, would the insulation be damaged by passing through that hole, which is apparently designed for that purpose?
One other option: You can wall-mount a saddle box.
I like that color paint, anyone know the name of that color?
How do you install a pancake box when the white pvc vent line is directly vertical in the way?
All sounds about right
So you don’t have to use the light bracket that the fixture came with. The bracket that came with mine is too small for the electrical box.
I appreciate your videos, the only feedback I can give here is that your arms are in the way of your work. Maybe you can redo this video with a different camera angle to make sure we can see what you're doing the entire time.
Thank you! 👍🏻🙂
Replacing a bathroom vanity light, but cant find one with it's own switch. The old one had it's own switch and socket and therefore did not need a wall switch. Bathroom has ceramic tiles on concrete walls. Power is supplied via a juncion box in wall. Do not wish to cut tiles. Dont they sell vanity lights with own switch and socket any more? How do I do this?
Your Ground screws into a PLASTIC box with NO metal connections to them is NOT needed!
You only need a 3 WAGO on The 2nd box for the ground!
he didn't ground the plastic box, he replaced the ground screw that came on the metal bracket for the fixture with a ground screw with an included green insulated conductor.
Perfect video explaining all the options. How about a video on replacing a ceiling light with a fan light combo without using a remote control.... Included the use of the fan boxes required.
90% of fans have pull chains that you can use to control them so you don’t have to do anything special with the wiring
@@billy9075 This video didn't have any fans in it but speaking of fans, I installed WiFi controls in all 8 of my ceiling fans. I can turn on any fan to any speed and the light by voice. Alexa has groups, all, 1st floor & 2nd floor . All fans also have a remote control for when the internet is down & they all have timers (1-2-4-8 hours) to turn them off if you so choose.
My vanity lights are also voice activated & I can turn 1, 2, 3 or all at once and all are dim-able.
I know Wago connectors are the way to go but folks have been mispronouncing it. Did not realize they were such a big company. Interesting info here about them. Check out this other UA-cam video : ua-cam.com/video/-hAY8_v2XAw/v-deo.html
And Volkswagon is supposed to be pronounced with an F and V, not V and W but try getting everyone to change. Now for the bonus round, pronounce the Polish city of Wrocław.
I used to work at the wago warehouse distribution center in Germantown Wisconsin. That place was the worst! I will never support that company.
In NYC ; no romex here.
Nice video but after attaching the mounting bracket you should use a level to make sure the bracket is level.
I find it hilarious that there is no regard for the wires against the sharp edges of the pivoting bracket through the wall but they forbid the wires going through the plain bracket because of "chafing".
My suspicion is that the Romex cables are seen as more permanent and more "sacred" in terms of keeping them undamaged. Someone might one day do a replacement like he just did here and unknowingly tuck a damaged section of Romex back into the wall.
So as a novice trying to just install a new vanity light it would be way more helpful to spend more time talking about the neutral and ground and hot wires and how you're connecting them with the Wago connectors rather than flying through this part with your hands in the way. Especially since the wiring is the most important part of it! I thought it was a great video up until the part that I actually needed to learn about. Sorry, just frustrated because I have to go and find another video that's going to show me, with more clarity, about the wiring and connection peocess so I don't mess things up set my house on fire or short out my system. Dang it.😒
Just a side note, when people do not get to the point in a timely manner some of us lose interest and don't watch the rest of the video
Use a saddle box instead of a pancake box! So much better.
Not a bad idea, thx for the feedback 👍
What are these French cleats?
I didn't watch the whole video - only needed the electrical parts - but the two metal bars - the French cleats - probably come with the mirrors.
Show more of a view when installing wiring.
I would not have used the "screwdriver depth gauge" for the right hand box....why not measure up to the right height and then punch your hole with the jab saw and cut over to the stud? No measuring and foolproof.
Please!!!!!!! People for first timers. This video was not 100 % accurate. He should have before anything first turn OFF POWER!! From breakerbox insuring power is off. Watch more videos like this before doing a job like these.
You are incorrect. If the light fixture is enclosed and the proper connectors are used you are allowed to omit the box. We do this all the time and I've never had one to fail inspection.
300.15 (J) Luminaires. A box or conduit body shall not be required
where a luminaire is used as a raceway as permitted in 410.64.
410.64(A) Listed. Luminaires listed and marked for use as a raceway
shall be permitted to be used as a raceway.
Thanks for the feedback and I need to investigate further on which vanity lights are approved to be a raceway. I always assumed this was limited to the utility lights you often see in a garage with 48” fluorescent or LED bulbs.
👍🏻
Why didn't you show the wiring??? Click bait
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Dude it’s not a Wag (O). It’s a Wago A A A A the o makes the A say it’s name lol
You're both wrong lol. The company pronounces the a like ah and the w like a v so like vahgo.
It doesn't matter how their game is pronounced their company sucks. I used to work there their product like be good but worst drive I ever had! I refuse to buy their products just because of that. Ideal as their own product which is the exact same I'll buy theirs instead.
hey Scott had appreciated if you could get patreon to either allow me to make a contribution to your Channel or at least make an annual contribution to your Channel either way I want to send some money your your way
😎👍👌🖖✌🤓
People like medicine cabinets. I don't understand the modern trend of designing bathrooms with mirrors that don't have medicine cabinets. Where are you supposed to put all that junk?
Dont do drugs
Usually in a vanity drawer.
I wouldn't used the lever connectors on a high amperage draw situation, such as a receptacle that a space heater is plugged into. I've seen them melted right off. Great for these lighting hookups though.
Your vids are great thank you!!
You bet, thanks for the support!
That retro box don’t work for flush sconces lights allays if 1/8” or some times 1/4” off from the wall so this demonstration it’s for old school vanity light