@@damion1121 I found a junction box in my attic that was about 15 cubic inches, and according to an internet calculator, all the wires jammed into it required at least 32". Just a tiny bit overcrowded. (I replaced it with a 42" box.)
Also, if it's low voltage wiring (think coax, and ethernet), you don't need a box but just a frame that grabs the plasterboard so the faceplate has something to screw into.
I miss watching Scott. I loved his vids on TOH. Wonder why we don't see him anymore. Even though the other electrician's vids are great as well. I still miss Scott's work. Loved watching him.
I was worried about the blue plastic one day after I saw a wire burnout while in service so I took one out to the driveway, laid it on the ground and put the torch to it and it took a 20 seconds to catch fire. It immediately went out after I removed the flame. I slept much better that night.
Tom Garbo dude what are you talking about? Its pvc and doesnt burn and its UL listed, you should use metal boxes in commercial, and i don’t get what this has to do with plumbing it just sounds like you’re a diyer who thinks they know what they’re talking about the old boxes were made of bakelite which was brittle and most of the time the screw holes stripped out, not fiberglass which you can still get but is more than a dollar a piece instead of 25 cents a piece
Tom Garbo lol, either you was doin a bunch of jobs without permits or you only done a couple jobs, i highly doubt you never failed an inspection. And have you seen a box fail? Most of the time the outlet or connection melts where it was arcing, ANYWAY you shouldn’t need to trust the box to prevent a fire from happening if you do your work correctly and you’re right the underwriters listing doesn’t mean much as wago levernuts are listed but ive seen them fail
Very nice explanation. However, it would have been nice to explain issues surrounding which depth of a box (the measurement of how deep the box extends into the wall) to choose. A deeper box allows more room for wires and connections. Is there a downside to using a deeper box (other than cost)?
I was on a project and some moron used a indoor blue electrical box for outdoor use. Talk about cutting corners. They make special outdoor electrical boxes. The company took advantage of this sweet old lady and jacked up her electrical. I can go on and on but I don’t understand why people in the trades can’t do their work right. Especially if you’re licensed.
The plaster old work boxes should be standard for new and old work, they are absolutely lovely to use. Also way more solid then the drywall tabs style.
Do you ever have them slide back into the wall when you drive the screw at that angle? From a first glance it seems like they would want to move that way? Can you enlighten?
@@MandoFettOG so put box in place, use screws that come with box just to make marks. Then pull back out, use drill bit to make a pre tapped hole about 1/8 inch drill bit or so and make a 1/4 inch or so deep tap hole. Then go back with box. No issue after that. Hope that helps. Ask again if ot enough info.
Good information. Maybe would have been helpful to let people know to just be aware of box fill. Mainly just that it is out there as that would take a long time to fully explain.
Gotta admit those Old Work Boxes are nice, cut a quick hole turn a couple screws and they're in. Of course you have to wire it but as far as cutting the hole and mounting it only takes a minute.
Oh you could’ve visited my house and have seen the sawdust, drywall pieces and random screws inside my boxes. All very effective at removing any fire prevention capability of the boxes. It was great the way the construction company did that. But really the spaghetti nest of wires that was then put in each box with missing twist connector caps really was quite impressive, breathtaking really.
When I replaced the Hollywood style vanity light the builder installed in my bathroom, I discovered there was no electrical box at all. They just punched a hole in the wall for the Romex and screwed the vanity light to the wall. Not sure how that passed inspection. I had to install an old-work box for the new light.
Misleading title, box count determines the box size required in old and new work. This is how to pick an old or new work box and not how to pick the correct box
What about the different junction boxes (octagon vs square), rounded gang boxes, some appear to be suited for switches vs outlets. So much was skipped over and barely scratched the surface
Why do the old work boxes have those tabs with screw holes in them? I understand the centered ones at the top and bottom are for mounting wall plates on, but the other four holes on the tabs have me confused? Are they for screwing the box directly into the drywall?
Those plastic tabs close into the inside part of the sheetrock when tightening the screws. That's the way you secure your old work box in the wall. Without those plastic tabs the box will be lose and fall.
Thanks you guys y’all just saved me a ton of heartache. Just set a ton of new boxes flush in my project building and just before covering with siding decided to check on if the game boxes should be flush or outset y’all save me a lot of heartache thank you
Is the black box NEC compliant? Per 314.43 "Nonmetallic Boxes. Provisions for supports or other mounting means for nonmetallic boxes shall be outside of the box, or the box shall be constructed so as to prevent contact between the conductors in the box and the supporting screws".
I was just doing some electrical work in my house. I bought the blue plastic boxes just like those in this video. I nailed them to the stud using the little molded in tabs for depth control. I installed my 1/2" drywall and guess what? The boxes are in too far by about 1/8". Now i guess i will have to put washers between the receptacle and the box to bring it out. This is really irritating.
I have boxes in my 10 year old house that are unlike any I’ve ever seen before. The screw holes that the receptacle would attach to are actually mechanical and I believe spring loaded. One broke and the receptacle became loose inside. Now I can’t find replacement parts.
There are too many codes to explain to the average person, and new codes are added and/or changed all the time. You would need a codebook if you really want to know all of those things.
Might want to add Low-Voltage boxes (Orange) for datacom. Some homes have LAN structured wiring, and "smurf" tubes run for future needs (fiber, Cat6/7).
@@TheYeeterDefeater exactly, a 4k Sq ft house is going to be badly served by a single wifi location. And 4k video eats bandwidth, so a couple 4k TVs streaming will murder available wifi bandwidth unless it is all 5Ghz. If it is all 5Ghz, the range will be even less
@@RichardFallstich Wi-Fi is what you use for devices that can't be wired and devices that need to move around. If it stays put and supports Ethernet, it should be connected with Ethernet. And aside from that, you need wires to have proper Wi-Fi anyway, via access points.
Richard, most wireless does not support Gigabit Ethernet. With more and more metro areas receiving fiber to the home, the ability to transfer data will be restrained by the limitations of the wireless network. Besides that, I think you're comment is rather dismissive - there should be several locations in the home where there are data jacks - future homeowners may use a different communications utility that relies on coax, and unless the home is equipped with a media cabinet, having options as to where to locate the modem and the ONT is very beneficial.
Hi! Viewer from Europe here! How do we choose the right type of box for concrete walls? I mistakenly bought a dry lining box and came to understand its the wrong one. Thanks!
*hint* Dont go to a big box store. *tip* find an actual lumber yard *advice* make sure the wood looks luke its been sitting, and dry. If its wet even the slightest it will dry and warp no matter what.
Do you have suggestions on what to do with coaxial splitters? There is one hanging out of the wall in the bedroom closet that has 4+ coaxial cables attached to it. The splitter has 8-10 coaxial ports, so it's not small. Someone installed a 1 or 2 sized box that was way too small for it and so there is a ball of excess cable in it and the whole junction box is hanging out. I read in the comments that low-voltage do not require a box, so should I take the box out, shove it all in the wall, and screw a blank plate over it? Or should I try to mount an external box to the inside of the closet, so it's accessible?
I watched this to see you talk about the single gang lower right corner of the display. It has the 2 wings that slide in the sides with tabs you bend over inside the box. You never talked about this one which is commonly used.
The fact that they refer to remodel installs as “old work” demonstrates how screwy the house wiring sphere is. The codes are numerous and inflexible when you build the house, yet you can ignore half of them when you add a fixture afterwards. House wiring needs an overhaul. It doesn’t accommodate today’s lower wattage products, proliferation of home electronics, and frequent remodels.
I’ve replaced virtually all my old incandescent bulbs with LED. Wattage went down from 60-75 to 5-8. I figured that the existing 12-2 wiring is over kill but no problem. Is there a downside? Am I missing something?
@@Mote78 Sorry for the belated reply. There is no downside. Just a missed opportunity. As you noted, your house wiring is overkill for the very low amperage that LEDs require. A circuit that traditionally accommodated only three rooms of incandescent ceiling lights, might be adequate for ten rooms of LED lights. Considering that there are never enough receptacles in a room to accommodate today’s electronics-and furniture placement preferences-freed circuits would allow for additional receptacles without up-sizing the panel.
I have a question? I did a search and cannot find an answer! How do I fix an electric outlet box that has popped out of the wall. My first reaction is to hammer it back in. The box is located between exterior/enterior wall, with outlet box enterior. I tried to push it back in with my hand, it won't budge. It used to be flush with the wall?
I need a shallow light switch box because the light switch needs to be moved over and there is only lightly less than 2 inches behind the drywall. Not sure if ai need a special shallow light switch or if a regular light switch will fit. Hoping that would have been covered to save me some time.
seriously, I wanted to hear about all of them and he just skipped em like he had somewhere to go. If you're not going to talk about them all why display them?
He could mention that in Europe we use round boxes (outside diameter ~70 mm) for everything (well, in UK they use rectangular, but they are not part of EU anymore :D + I think Italy is also specific).
Hello, I am having trouble secure the new blue box to the drywall. When I put the plug out. The whole box comes out from the wall. It’s tight as far as it goes.
@Dev JB Commercial occupancies can be wired in NM cable if they meet certain criteria. I think the actual answer to Daniel's question was given by Heath. If you are using AC/MC/FMC/RMC/IMC/EMT/LFMC or similar metal clad cable or raceway, you must use a metal box. This can occur in both residential and commercial settings. In many jurisdictions, unfinished basements and crawl spaces of dwelling units cannot be wired in NM cable. The natural choice these days would be MC cable, suggesting the use of metal boxes for lighting and receptacle outlets and switches located in these areas.
Good video but no discussion about the box that is wide in the back, but single outlet in the front... look at 2:05(rear view) you can see the box on the left is wide but front view (2:12) it is narrow- Is that for excess cables or maybe a transformer or other type of hardware or devices??
It very well might, but an experienced person wouldn’t do it. It sets up a dangerous situation where a later installer may assume the box is properly supported and put up a fixture of dangerous weight. Check your ceiling. Some framers will bother to give you some wood in the exact center of the ceiling. If not, use the expanding metal device he showed.
What’s the difference in the blue remodel boxes? There are 2 single gang boxes they look the same and it was mentioned they are similar. But what’s the difference?
Do voltage and wire gauge matter when chosen a box? I am installing a 240v plug with a 6AWG wire. Is it okay to use a plastic box instead of a metal? The wire is r
@@juniorzoramac good electricians only use plastic round boxes for mounting smoke detectors and lightweight (less than a pound or 2) wall sconces. The plastic threads just aren't made to take the weight of many light fixtures. In fact if you read the literature on some plastic round boxes it will say not to mount light fixtures with them especially if it is an old work box.
anyone know who makes that adjustable old work ceiling box system he showed? the one's lowes and home depot sell are a huge pain to adjust because they spot weld the box to the rod and you can't spin it to tighten the rod and then place the box where you want. it takes dozens of attempts to get theirs lined up with your drywall hole and be tight enough to hold.
Hi blue excuse me I don't know but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Doppler I'm not familiar to say but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
For something that light, the old work box will do fine. Just make sure the hinges are well seated on the drywall. The opening should be VERY tidy, no chucks of drywall ripped out behind the finish side.
Wow no one answered.. I notice most comments on youtube don't get answered probably because most channels have their comments set sorted by _top rated_ first instead of newest first. BTW Jamie I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
They are really only showing 1 and 2- gang boxes. When you start putting in 3-gang and larger, the plastic ones that attach to the stud tend to flex too much. I have had to remove numerous ones at my house when I replaced switches because they go too far into the wall cavity, and getting them flush against the drywall is a pain where they never look right. I replaced all of them with old work boxes with metal tabs. If I have to re-drywall, I use metal boxes with an adjustable metal brace behind them. The stuff that is allowed in residential construction is just painfully bad.
@@zefrum3 A plastic box only has 2 nails going into a stud. When you put in multiple gang boxes, the far end starts to cantilever when you start jamming wires and switches into the box. There are adjustable metal mounting brackets that go between studs where you can mount a metal electrical anywhere along them that are used all the time in commercial construction. Using a blue plastic box and a hammer is fast and cheap. Mountain a spanner brace, having to mount the box and ground it properly, and then install the device isn't cost effective for a builder.
@@iliketoeatfood123 maybe, I dunno; though I find your trouble surprising. Ive installed plenty of old work 3 gang, way different But, i just cant imagine theres that much flex, plus the switch plate would really lock it in if the whole isnt too big
@@zefrum3 Old Work/Remodel boxes are different. You have the flip out ears/wings on all the corners that provide even bracing. New work boxes only have the 2 nails and usually the electrician will add a middle nail on the 3-gang and larger boxes. Using the faceplate screws to pull the box into the drywall is a band-aid to a bad idea. If you are using traditional switches or receptacles, you will probably have enough room for wires behind the devices and the back of the box to where you can cram everything in without pushing the box back. Using smart switches, occupancy sensors, or GFCI receptacles, you will be cantilevering the box back. I am looking at a 3-gang box right now where I replaced the single pole switches with Lutron Caseta switches, and I had to replace it with a remodel box because there was no other way to get everything to fit without original new work box going into the wall an inch or more. If I were to build a house on my own, I would never use the plastic new work boxes attached to studs, but I am also the type to update and remodel as time goes on which isn't the case for most people. If someone wants a simple line voltage single pole switch they will never update or replace then plastic new work boxes are fine.
@@iliketoeatfood123 all my switches are Casetta, all my plugs are w/ USB a and c, try to avoid gfci plugs as circuit brakers can be and will be gfci But i was able to fit everything in the origional 1970s era white plastic (asbestos impregnated?) new work boxes, no movement; was tight but no problems unless i wanted a box for more casettas in the bathrooms etc which was a blue 3 gang old work box. I apprenticed to a master in high school; Im an engineer. The new work 3 gang boxes at HD have a screw flange on the opposite side of the nails, adding a stud to catch this flange would probably be very easy and fix your problem
Hi Thomas maybe something like adjustable old work ceiling fan box brace. BTW I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
I will typically use a #10 x 1" sheet metal screw with a hex head. Make sure you don't get the self drilling kind if you are drilling into wood. Other times I will use a #10 x 1" pan head, or #12 x 1 pan head. I would NOT use drywall screws.
Vanessa, Steve I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Are there different sizes of junction boxes used for vanity lights?.. Im replacing one in an 1970 home and the current box is metal and doesnt fit the new light im installing...I need to replace it but wasnt sure if there was like a universal box that i can use that will fit any vanity light or if i should be looking for a certain size.Thanks...
I have a ceiling round black junction box just like the ones on your display on top of the samples. The light fixture I bought does not fit into the junction box because it’s not deep enough for the mounting strap/nipple. Do they sell deeper junction boxes or do I need to get a new light fixture without such a long strap/nipple? Confused as to what to do next.
And I don’t know how much room behind the current junction box I have as it’s in a mobile home kitchen ceiling I’m trying to replace. Not sure how much room is behind the current junction box because the wires were still live after I killed the breaker. Will have to kill the main breaker because someone hacked the electrical previously. I’m doing this for my elderly parents on a fixed income. Any help is appreciated!!
Wow no one answered.. Most comments don't get attention probably because they are sorted ''top comments'' first and not newest first. Did you figure it out? BTW Savagepreneur I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Why do some of the boxes come with threaded tabs while others are just a box with not tabs or maybe only two on opposite corners for the cover plate? I thought those without the treaded tabs where only for ceiling but lowes has them listed as ceiling and wall.
Hi hippo excuse me I'm not familiar with that but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
The problem for me is my electrician used new work boxes for drywall but I had told him that my manufactured home uses panels that are about a quarter inch thick so all of my outlets and plugins stick out and aren't flush. Are they able to jus leave it like that?
They make spacers you can buy to bring the device (outlet, Switch) further out for thick walls. They come in a bag of like 100 and attach like Legos to each other to provide adjustment in 1/8 in. increments. You can get them at your local home center.
Trace the other half of the double gang cut to size making a bigger whole! Remove old box by cutting nails securing box to stud with a reciprocating hack saw. Chisel out old box by destroying it with chisel. Drywall or plaster repair may be required
Some of these boxes seem to be really not self explanatory as to how to get the wires into the box. The round cutout type is pretty simple but I just bought some that I am not sure to pry, bang or twist the entry for the wires. Really confusing for a DIY person.
What about the new vapor tight boxes that are required in exterior walls in areas that have adopted the latest energy code? I suppose that could be a video in itself.
In Ontario you can't DIY electrical unless it's in your own home (and you live there). This, and it still all has to go through inspection. How can you do electrical and not have read one of those electrical-code books to be able to do this kind of work? If the boxes confuse you, wait until you get to a three-way switch, a marrette on multiple wires.. and that's the easy stuff. Open a box to find K&T, or aluminum? would you even know what you're looking at? IMHO, you don't need to be a pro, but you need to know enough to know when you're in over your head.
It's be helpful for yoy guys to show what to do when a bathroom wall light is smack dab center of a stud. The center of the faucet is 31.5 inches from the wall...right on the stud. I found an open ring that looks like it'll work just fine. I'm frankly surprised to see ZERO explainer videos of this issue online.
In an internet of "experts and influencers, I always enjoy a This Old House video on something I need to know.
Good explanation of each type of boxes and a great demo of how each mounts.
One additional thing that would have been helpful to mention is that the boxes come in different depths.
I wish my electrician knew that and used the correct depth so my outlets and plugins could be flush
And depending how many wires you have, you need to make sure it doesn’t exceed the box’s fill rating.
@@damion1121 I found a junction box in my attic that was about 15 cubic inches, and according to an internet calculator, all the wires jammed into it required at least 32". Just a tiny bit overcrowded. (I replaced it with a 42" box.)
Agreed. A GFCI won't be getting stuffed into a shallow electrical box.
Tg
Also, if it's low voltage wiring (think coax, and ethernet), you don't need a box but just a frame that grabs the plasterboard so the faceplate has something to screw into.
"Great, makes perfect sense, I got it! I'm not going to commit any of it to memory though and will still call you once I'm in the isle"
this was really clear, very much appreciated
If you don’t know what box you’re using in the first place you shouldn’t be trying to do electrical work
@@mrpanda2655 I wasnt being sarcastic, I guess it can be hard to imply tone. So take 2 of these 🤫🤫 and go about your way. I appreciate your concern.
I miss watching Scott. I loved his vids on TOH. Wonder why we don't see him anymore. Even though the other electrician's vids are great as well. I still miss Scott's work. Loved watching him.
I agree with you, too. I miss Scott's voice and enthusiasm. Heath is a good replacement for Scott though, but obviously not exactly like Scott
His twitter page simply stated his contract was over and that's why you don't see him on anymore.
I prefer Heath. I think he has a bit more attention to detail with his work. He’s a little boring on screen but he’s a better electrician.
Love Scott but heath is actually fantastic. I enjoy them both equally
They said he was shot dead by police last year.
In Canada we rarely ever use plastic boxes
I was worried about the blue plastic one day after I saw a wire burnout while in service so I took one out to the driveway, laid it on the ground and put the torch to it and it took a 20 seconds to catch fire. It immediately went out after I removed the flame. I slept much better that night.
It’s PVC it won’t burn
Tom Garbo one could argue.
Tom Garbo dude what are you talking about? Its pvc and doesnt burn and its UL listed, you should use metal boxes in commercial, and i don’t get what this has to do with plumbing it just sounds like you’re a diyer who thinks they know what they’re talking about the old boxes were made of bakelite which was brittle and most of the time the screw holes stripped out, not fiberglass which you can still get but is more than a dollar a piece instead of 25 cents a piece
Tom Garbo lol, either you was doin a bunch of jobs without permits or you only done a couple jobs, i highly doubt you never failed an inspection. And have you seen a box fail? Most of the time the outlet or connection melts where it was arcing, ANYWAY you shouldn’t need to trust the box to prevent a fire from happening if you do your work correctly and you’re right the underwriters listing doesn’t mean much as wago levernuts are listed but ive seen them fail
Tom Garbo so u failed the inspection
Very nice explanation. However, it would have been nice to explain issues surrounding which depth of a box (the measurement of how deep the box extends into the wall) to choose. A deeper box allows more room for wires and connections. Is there a downside to using a deeper box (other than cost)?
Sometimes the wall is too shallow to fit the deep ones. Other than that, no downsides to using a deeper box.
Pancake boxes are what the shallow ones are called. About 3/4” deep or half inch deep
I was on a project and some moron used a indoor blue electrical box for outdoor use. Talk about cutting corners. They make special outdoor electrical boxes. The company took advantage of this sweet old lady and jacked up her electrical. I can go on and on but I don’t understand why people in the trades can’t do their work right. Especially if you’re licensed.
3:50 That was the exact question I needed asked. Thank you.
The plaster old work boxes should be standard for new and old work, they are absolutely lovely to use. Also way more solid then the drywall tabs style.
Do you ever have them slide back into the wall when you drive the screw at that angle? From a first glance it seems like they would want to move that way? Can you enlighten?
@@MandoFettOG so put box in place, use screws that come with box just to make marks. Then pull back out, use drill bit to make a pre tapped hole about 1/8 inch drill bit or so and make a 1/4 inch or so deep tap hole. Then go back with box. No issue after that. Hope that helps. Ask again if ot enough info.
@@Ampacityelectric nice, thanks
Good information. Maybe would have been helpful to let people know to just be aware of box fill. Mainly just that it is out there as that would take a long time to fully explain.
Perfect, exactly what I needed re: overhead.
Gotta admit those Old Work Boxes are nice, cut a quick hole turn a couple screws and they're in. Of course you have to wire it but as far as cutting the hole and mounting it only takes a minute.
Jupp Schlabutt Germany always has the best solutions for many problems in the world.
Just do like the folks who owned my house before and don’t use a box. Lol just kidding please use a box.
RoastBeefSandwich if you do a splice outside of a box the heat more easily dissipates from arcing though.
RoastBeefSandwich Make me a sandwich
Veni Vidi Vici Make me a Vici
Oh you could’ve visited my house and have seen the sawdust, drywall pieces and random screws inside my boxes. All very effective at removing any fire prevention capability of the boxes. It was great the way the construction company did that. But really the spaghetti nest of wires that was then put in each box with missing twist connector caps really was quite impressive, breathtaking really.
When I replaced the Hollywood style vanity light the builder installed in my bathroom, I discovered there was no electrical box at all. They just punched a hole in the wall for the Romex and screwed the vanity light to the wall. Not sure how that passed inspection. I had to install an old-work box for the new light.
I was hoping this would include Junction box styles
Misleading title, box count determines the box size required in old and new work. This is how to pick an old or new work box and not how to pick the correct box
What about the different junction boxes (octagon vs square), rounded gang boxes, some appear to be suited for switches vs outlets. So much was skipped over and barely scratched the surface
HOW is this question still not answered?!?? I came to find that out 😩
Why do the old work boxes have those tabs with screw holes in them? I understand the centered ones at the top and bottom are for mounting wall plates on, but the other four holes on the tabs have me confused? Are they for screwing the box directly into the drywall?
Those plastic tabs close into the inside part of the sheetrock when tightening the screws. That's the way you secure your old work box in the wall. Without those plastic tabs the box will be lose and fall.
Thanks you guys y’all just saved me a ton of heartache. Just set a ton of new boxes flush in my project building and just before covering with siding decided to check on if the game boxes should be flush or outset y’all save me a lot of heartache thank you
Kyle I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Helped me out today. Thanks.
DrB I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Overall love the content, straight forward and detailed.
Is the black box NEC compliant? Per 314.43 "Nonmetallic Boxes. Provisions for supports or other mounting means for nonmetallic boxes shall be outside of the box, or the box shall be constructed so as to prevent contact between the conductors in the box and the supporting screws".
Best home show ever 👍👍
I was just doing some electrical work in my house. I bought the blue plastic boxes just like those in this video. I nailed them to the stud using the little molded in tabs for depth control. I installed my 1/2" drywall and guess what? The boxes are in too far by about 1/8". Now i guess i will have to put washers between the receptacle and the box to bring it out. This is really irritating.
I have boxes in my 10 year old house that are unlike any I’ve ever seen before.
The screw holes that the receptacle would attach to are actually mechanical and I believe spring loaded. One broke and the receptacle became loose inside. Now I can’t find replacement parts.
What about junction boxes? What about the number of Romex that can be included in the box? What about the extra depth boxes and their use?
There are too many codes to explain to the average person, and new codes are added and/or changed all the time. You would need a codebook if you really want to know all of those things.
I wondered about junction boxes too, specifically I wanted to find out if you can use a switch box as a junction box
Thanks for making this video ❤
On the old work the round black boxes weren't explained. Please let me know what these are.
Might want to add Low-Voltage boxes (Orange) for datacom. Some homes have LAN structured wiring, and "smurf" tubes run for future needs (fiber, Cat6/7).
Have you heard of WiFi? Wireless? About 20 years ago I ran CAT-5 cable & coax all over my house. It's all just sitting idle now.
@@TheYeeterDefeater exactly, a 4k Sq ft house is going to be badly served by a single wifi location. And 4k video eats bandwidth, so a couple 4k TVs streaming will murder available wifi bandwidth unless it is all 5Ghz. If it is all 5Ghz, the range will be even less
@@RichardFallstich Wi-Fi is what you use for devices that can't be wired and devices that need to move around. If it stays put and supports Ethernet, it should be connected with Ethernet. And aside from that, you need wires to have proper Wi-Fi anyway, via access points.
Richard, most wireless does not support Gigabit Ethernet. With more and more metro areas receiving fiber to the home, the ability to transfer data will be restrained by the limitations of the wireless network. Besides that, I think you're comment is rather dismissive - there should be several locations in the home where there are data jacks - future homeowners may use a different communications utility that relies on coax, and unless the home is equipped with a media cabinet, having options as to where to locate the modem and the ONT is very beneficial.
Hi! Viewer from Europe here! How do we choose the right type of box for concrete walls? I mistakenly bought a dry lining box and came to understand its the wrong one. Thanks!
Question:
Where do you find studs like that?
All the big box stores' studs are half knots, bowed, twisted, and missing chunks where bark is.
*hint* Dont go to a big box store.
*tip* find an actual lumber yard
*advice* make sure the wood looks luke its been sitting, and dry. If its wet even the slightest it will dry and warp no matter what.
You found me! ;)
Does it matter which box you use as long as you use the correct wiring cables?
Yes.
Do you have suggestions on what to do with coaxial splitters? There is one hanging out of the wall in the bedroom closet that has 4+ coaxial cables attached to it. The splitter has 8-10 coaxial ports, so it's not small. Someone installed a 1 or 2 sized box that was way too small for it and so there is a ball of excess cable in it and the whole junction box is hanging out. I read in the comments that low-voltage do not require a box, so should I take the box out, shove it all in the wall, and screw a blank plate over it? Or should I try to mount an external box to the inside of the closet, so it's accessible?
Are there any adapters for a round base to a square electrical box?
Excellent information
Single gang, two gang, three gang, four gang. This guy boxes!
I watched this to see you talk about the single gang lower right corner of the display. It has the 2 wings that slide in the sides with tabs you bend over inside the box. You never talked about this one which is commonly used.
Battleships where I'm from
I've always knew them as "madison hold its or clips". It depends on where you are from. Those yankees have different names for almost everything :)
nice video. Didn't know about the expansion mount for ceilings! cool!
Wonderful I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
The fact that they refer to remodel installs as “old work” demonstrates how screwy the house wiring sphere is. The codes are numerous and inflexible when you build the house, yet you can ignore half of them when you add a fixture afterwards. House wiring needs an overhaul. It doesn’t accommodate today’s lower wattage products, proliferation of home electronics, and frequent remodels.
I’ve replaced virtually all my old incandescent bulbs with LED. Wattage went down from 60-75 to 5-8. I figured that the existing 12-2 wiring is over kill but no problem. Is there a downside?
Am I missing something?
@@Mote78 Sorry for the belated reply. There is no downside. Just a missed opportunity. As you noted, your house wiring is overkill for the very low amperage that LEDs require. A circuit that traditionally accommodated only three rooms of incandescent ceiling lights, might be adequate for ten rooms of LED lights. Considering that there are never enough receptacles in a room to accommodate today’s electronics-and furniture placement preferences-freed circuits would allow for additional receptacles without up-sizing the panel.
@@tycox8704
Thank you. That’s a relief.
Great point, if we had a dedicated lighting-only circuit it could use a lower gauge cable for low power LEDs w/o Edison base, maybe even DC.
@@Mote78 I only use incandescent bulbs because LEDs create harmful dirty electricity and blue light.
I have a question? I did a search and cannot find an answer! How do I fix an electric outlet box that has popped out of the wall. My first reaction is to hammer it back in. The box is located between exterior/enterior wall, with outlet box enterior. I tried to push it back in with my hand, it won't budge. It used to be flush with the wall?
first of all, remove the face plate,
Try using Madison straps.They are thin metal pieces that go on each side hook behind the drywall then tabs that bend into the box.
First, remove the BOX!
I need a shallow light switch box because the light switch needs to be moved over and there is only lightly less than 2 inches behind the drywall. Not sure if ai need a special shallow light switch or if a regular light switch will fit. Hoping that would have been covered to save me some time.
Guy spends all day building nice display for the show, host comes in and skips half the boxes...
i wanted to know about the old metal box but he skipped it lol
seriously, I wanted to hear about all of them and he just skipped em like he had somewhere to go. If you're not going to talk about them all why display them?
Right I wanted more information
Yes, like, how does the rectangular box attach to the ceiling?
I dunno, they covered everything. The ones the skipped were just a different variation of what they previously talked about.
Are junction boxes still used to wire bedroom outlets?
On 4 gang steel switch boxes with mounting brackets need to be supported on the other side.
He could mention that in Europe we use round boxes (outside diameter ~70 mm) for everything (well, in UK they use rectangular, but they are not part of EU anymore :D + I think Italy is also specific).
This isn't a European show.
Thank you, great tutorial
Awesome presentation display
Excellent video !!!
Question what above your have drop ceiling metal Beams ?
great job. more electrical videos please
Hello, I am having trouble secure the new blue box to the drywall. When I put the plug out. The whole box comes out from the wall. It’s tight as far as it goes.
Would have loved more detail regarding requirements and code... I assume I am required to use metal in some cases, but maybe not?
@Dev JB Commercial occupancies can be wired in NM cable if they meet certain criteria. I think the actual answer to Daniel's question was given by Heath. If you are using AC/MC/FMC/RMC/IMC/EMT/LFMC or similar metal clad cable or raceway, you must use a metal box. This can occur in both residential and commercial settings. In many jurisdictions, unfinished basements and crawl spaces of dwelling units cannot be wired in NM cable. The natural choice these days would be MC cable, suggesting the use of metal boxes for lighting and receptacle outlets and switches located in these areas.
Good video but no discussion about the box that is wide in the back, but single outlet in the front... look at 2:05(rear view) you can see the box on the left is wide but front view (2:12) it is narrow- Is that for excess cables or maybe a transformer or other type of hardware or devices??
Thank you!! I’m adding some new spotlights to my eaves and didn’t know how I was going to attach them.
It very well might, but an experienced person wouldn’t do it. It sets up a dangerous situation where a later installer may assume the box is properly supported and put up a fixture of dangerous weight. Check your ceiling. Some framers will bother to give you some wood in the exact center of the ceiling. If not, use the expanding metal device he showed.
What’s the difference in the blue remodel boxes? There are 2 single gang boxes they look the same and it was mentioned they are similar. But what’s the difference?
looks like remodel ones have a flange which prevents them sliding into the wall
Look at 2:09 when they show the back. The one box is shallow with extra space to the side so you still have room for wires.
‘Into structure’ is always strange to hear when you live in The Netherlands where every house is made of concrete and bricks
Is all your electrical wiring ran in conduit exposed on the wall?
Just like choosing a wand at Ollivanders magical wand shop, you don't choose the electrical box...it chooses you!
Do voltage and wire gauge matter when chosen a box? I am installing a 240v plug with a 6AWG wire. Is it okay to use a plastic box instead of a metal? The wire is r
Very helpful video.
Thanks for information
Esam I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Where can I get a cut out, I can't find one anywhere
Did you get the memo?
Yeah, PLAID SHIRT! Got it.
Great job, thanks
Very interesting and informative 😎👍
Nice electrician guy
Thank you, this covered my question exactly
J H I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Invaluable as always, thank you!
Never use those plastic ceiling boxes, use metal boxes in the ceilings for fans and fixtures.
Care to elaborate on why?
@@juniorzoramac good electricians only use plastic round boxes for mounting smoke detectors and lightweight (less than a pound or 2) wall sconces. The plastic threads just aren't made to take the weight of many light fixtures. In fact if you read the literature on some plastic round boxes it will say not to mount light fixtures with them especially if it is an old work box.
Can you buy adjustable depth boxes for thicker wall covering and plastering?
anyone know who makes that adjustable old work ceiling box system he showed? the one's lowes and home depot sell are a huge pain to adjust because they spot weld the box to the rod and you can't spin it to tighten the rod and then place the box where you want. it takes dozens of attempts to get theirs lined up with your drywall hole and be tight enough to hold.
Hi blue excuse me I don't know but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
thanks guys
KB I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
What about fiberglass vs. plastic? Is one better?
Doppler I'm not familiar to say but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
0:24 Kevin missed the opportunity for a Newark comment.... if i remember correctly, Kevin used to live in NJ before?
Hi guys. What can of electrical box use when between the drywall and esterior block wall i only have like 1" gap
Lisber I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
You mentioned for overhead, you’d install a ceiling box. If I’m installing a 4.5lb light fixture, would one of those round old work boxes hold?
For something that light, the old work box will do fine. Just make sure the hinges are well seated on the drywall. The opening should be VERY tidy, no chucks of drywall ripped out behind the finish side.
tdkdpt I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
What is the nail length to mount the box to the joint? I'm missing a nail on a box single gang box. I have a nail but it's too wide for the slot.
Wow no one answered.. I notice most comments on youtube don't get answered probably because most channels have their comments set sorted by _top rated_ first instead of newest first.
BTW Jamie I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Would have also been helpful to cover basement settings with some type of masonry or concrete wal, or metal shop wallsl without studs to affix to.
Yes. And when is it OK/not OK to use the types of wall boxes shown in this video in a basement or garage where the box will be exposed?
They are really only showing 1 and 2- gang boxes. When you start putting in 3-gang and larger, the plastic ones that attach to the stud tend to flex too much. I have had to remove numerous ones at my house when I replaced switches because they go too far into the wall cavity, and getting them flush against the drywall is a pain where they never look right. I replaced all of them with old work boxes with metal tabs. If I have to re-drywall, I use metal boxes with an adjustable metal brace behind them. The stuff that is allowed in residential construction is just painfully bad.
ummm what?
@@zefrum3 A plastic box only has 2 nails going into a stud. When you put in multiple gang boxes, the far end starts to cantilever when you start jamming wires and switches into the box. There are adjustable metal mounting brackets that go between studs where you can mount a metal electrical anywhere along them that are used all the time in commercial construction. Using a blue plastic box and a hammer is fast and cheap. Mountain a spanner brace, having to mount the box and ground it properly, and then install the device isn't cost effective for a builder.
@@iliketoeatfood123 maybe, I dunno; though I find your trouble surprising. Ive installed plenty of old work 3 gang, way different But, i just cant imagine theres that much flex, plus the switch plate would really lock it in if the whole isnt too big
@@zefrum3 Old Work/Remodel boxes are different. You have the flip out ears/wings on all the corners that provide even bracing. New work boxes only have the 2 nails and usually the electrician will add a middle nail on the 3-gang and larger boxes. Using the faceplate screws to pull the box into the drywall is a band-aid to a bad idea.
If you are using traditional switches or receptacles, you will probably have enough room for wires behind the devices and the back of the box to where you can cram everything in without pushing the box back. Using smart switches, occupancy sensors, or GFCI receptacles, you will be cantilevering the box back. I am looking at a 3-gang box right now where I replaced the single pole switches with Lutron Caseta switches, and I had to replace it with a remodel box because there was no other way to get everything to fit without original new work box going into the wall an inch or more. If I were to build a house on my own, I would never use the plastic new work boxes attached to studs, but I am also the type to update and remodel as time goes on which isn't the case for most people. If someone wants a simple line voltage single pole switch they will never update or replace then plastic new work boxes are fine.
@@iliketoeatfood123 all my switches are Casetta, all my plugs are w/ USB a and c, try to avoid gfci plugs as circuit brakers can be and will be gfci But i was able to fit everything in the origional 1970s era white plastic (asbestos impregnated?) new work boxes, no movement; was tight but no problems unless i wanted a box for more casettas in the bathrooms etc which was a blue 3 gang old work box. I apprenticed to a master in high school; Im an engineer. The new work 3 gang boxes at HD have a screw flange on the opposite side of the nails, adding a stud to catch this flange would probably be very easy and fix your problem
What’s the name of the support beam that you can stick in and turn to tighten?
Hi Thomas maybe something like adjustable old work ceiling fan box brace.
BTW I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Does it matter what type of screws you use for the metal boxes?
I will typically use a #10 x 1" sheet metal screw with a hex head. Make sure you don't get the self drilling kind if you are drilling into wood. Other times I will use a #10 x 1" pan head, or #12 x 1 pan head. I would NOT use drywall screws.
Vanessa, Steve I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Are there different sizes of junction boxes used for vanity lights?.. Im replacing one in an 1970 home and the current box is metal and doesnt fit the new light im installing...I need to replace it but wasnt sure if there was like a universal box that i can use that will fit any vanity light or if i should be looking for a certain size.Thanks...
P G I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
I have a ceiling round black junction box just like the ones on your display on top of the samples. The light fixture I bought does not fit into the junction box because it’s not deep enough for the mounting strap/nipple. Do they sell deeper junction boxes or do I need to get a new light fixture without such a long strap/nipple? Confused as to what to do next.
And I don’t know how much room behind the current junction box I have as it’s in a mobile home kitchen ceiling I’m trying to replace. Not sure how much room is behind the current junction box because the wires were still live after I killed the breaker. Will have to kill the main breaker because someone hacked the electrical previously. I’m doing this for my elderly parents on a fixed income. Any help is appreciated!!
Wow no one answered.. Most comments don't get attention probably because they are sorted ''top comments'' first and not newest first.
Did you figure it out?
BTW Savagepreneur I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Why do some of the boxes come with threaded tabs while others are just a box with not tabs or maybe only two on opposite corners for the cover plate? I thought those without the treaded tabs where only for ceiling but lowes has them listed as ceiling and wall.
Hi hippo excuse me I'm not familiar with that but I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
The problem for me is my electrician used new work boxes for drywall but I had told him that my manufactured home uses panels that are about a quarter inch thick so all of my outlets and plugins stick out and aren't flush. Are they able to jus leave it like that?
They make spacers you can buy to bring the device (outlet, Switch) further out for thick walls. They come in a bag of like 100 and attach like Legos to each other to provide adjustment in 1/8 in. increments. You can get them at your local home center.
Thanks
Michael I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
How do i break the box in the back to feed the wires
Learning from the bosses
Love this channel!!!!
What about extension boxes to add external conduit?
XC2long4u I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Thank you!
One thing I would like to know is if I want to go from a single gang to a double gang, what is the best way of doing it?
Trace the other half of the double gang cut to size making a bigger whole! Remove old box by cutting nails securing box to stud with a reciprocating hack saw. Chisel out old box by destroying it with chisel. Drywall or plaster repair may be required
rowland I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Some of these boxes seem to be really not self explanatory as to how to get the wires into the box. The round cutout type is pretty simple but I just bought some that I am not sure to pry, bang or twist the entry for the wires. Really confusing for a DIY person.
Jim I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
What about the new vapor tight boxes that are required in exterior walls in areas that have adopted the latest energy code? I suppose that could be a video in itself.
What kind would I use if I wanted to remove my base board heaters and put the heater wires through a box with a blank cover?
I would use a plastic rectangular one and sideways to make it look better.
@@joaquinsuarez6090 cool thanks I used the one at 1:52 sec the blue plastic rectangle one worked like a charm. Was surprised at how easy install was.
wife I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
In Ontario you can't DIY electrical unless it's in your own home (and you live there). This, and it still all has to go through inspection. How can you do electrical and not have read one of those electrical-code books to be able to do this kind of work? If the boxes confuse you, wait until you get to a three-way switch, a marrette on multiple wires.. and that's the easy stuff. Open a box to find K&T, or aluminum? would you even know what you're looking at? IMHO, you don't need to be a pro, but you need to know enough to know when you're in over your head.
mgjk I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
It's be helpful for yoy guys to show what to do when a bathroom wall light is smack dab center of a stud. The center of the faucet is 31.5 inches from the wall...right on the stud. I found an open ring that looks like it'll work just fine. I'm frankly surprised to see ZERO explainer videos of this issue online.
John, Dev I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.