I am a long range shooter so what we do to get the max elevation travel from our elevation turret is to put a 20 moa or 30 moa rail on our rifles. What this does is raises the the back of your scope that is nearest you the shooter and it gives you max. travel UP as you put it. So you basically need your ring at the rear of your scope (closest to the shooter) higher than the front of your scope ( end toward the end of your barrel. Keep in mind you just cant put a high ring in the back and a low ring in the front it would not set right in the rings. You will need a picatinny raid that does it for you. Just buying to high scope rings will not do this as you suggested in the video.
If your scope is running with to much up turns on top turret you will put it under to much strain inside and this will cause you to lose zero a lot more often, changing to higher mounts will not solve your issue it will only multiply it more so. Take your scope off the rifle and turn top turret to max up and stop do not force it then slowly rewind downwards counting full turns to the bottom or count how many click it takes to reach max bottom divide x2 and turn up to middle point. Now return scope back on rifle and fire 5 shots if the pellet is below the cross hairs you need to shim the back bottom mount with either 35mm camera film or a slice of coke can will do, but remember to place this under the scope and then fire another 5 shots don,t worrie about windage at this stage just up a d down if the pellet is still below the cross place another peice of film until you are shooting above the cross. Its the same as shooting above the cross you need the reverse and shim the front mount once you have your zero up and down centre work on the windage. Hope this helps.
You could also try turning the scope mounts around by putting the front on the back and the back on the front sometimes helps or buy sportsmatch adjustable mounts. As to buying taller mounts this will only make you raise your face and cheek higher to see down your scope znd will not help zeroing.
You may want to try this out. Return your scope to optical center. Then use a shim to adjust the scope initially. After you have shimmed you should need less elevation turret clicks to raise the reticle. I try not to adjust the turrets to their max since the erector tube spring will be either heavily compressed or will not have enough tension to keep the tube from "floating" around inside the scope tube.
Im learning about scope and according to the manual that came with my new purchase this is about the best thing you can do! [They did sort of explain the maxing out issues with pictures]
I'm going to have to shim a 50x tactical scope. Thing won't go high enough to raise even close with bore sight. I first thought that maybe my bore sight isn't set correctly in barrel. Nope, borrowed a friend bore site and got same results.
Here is what I learned about scope mounting. I just received an AR-10 .308 Win and I put on it a Vortex Diamondback Tactical scope with a 50 mm objective bell. On some tall rings. And I could not get my laser bore sight and reticle cross hairs close to each other until max "up" turret rotation. I explained that problem to someone at my local gun store and he said what I needed was an "AR" mount for scopes. It is an offset piece with two rings built-in. This allows the base to be mounted over the action only and not on the floating MLOK handguard. And have respectable eye relief. And the most important part of that is .... line of sight from eyeball to center line of the scope. Before, I was looking slightly down, which was throwing off the perception. Getting directly in line, I only needed on rotation from mechanical zero (It has a total range of 67 MOA.) So, that is the big thing. Where you can comfortably rest, is your eye focus directly in line with the center line of the scope?
Most rifles only need an UP elevation if you set the scope at 25 yards. Your theory of "more ups" is good. Left and right should be equal so center the adjusting knob before you begin any zeroing. I think Burris makes rings with cammed shims. The shims are not concentric so when you mount your scope, you can turn the shims and "wobble" the scope a bit left or right or up or down. Use a bore sighter to get the scope on paper and then tighten up the screws. This should help.
Can one perhaps shim the mounts with a reasonable material. There is a bit of length on the mounting hold down screws. I have the same issue as you have.
Modern guns like taipan veteran comes with 20 MOA built into them so you don’t have to mess with adjustable mounts or shimming the rear mount to point the scope outer tube down. The turrets do the same but with the erector tube, alas they have limited travel don’t overadjust.
good video , i would like to add , make sure that the mounts are tightened equally on the top and not more on one side than the other , and front to rear, these minor adjustments helped for me , i hope that it helps someone else !
Lower the scope is to the bore of the rifle the more elevation/clicks/dots/up you will have. It is a air gun so ur gonna have alot more drop than a actual rifle. Other than that ur gonna need a scope base rail thats angled foward to give u a little more elevation for those longer shots.
Your video answers my question. Ran out of windage clicks today and thought I broke my scope. I was shooting to high and it took many clicks to get my shots on the paper. Then it was shooting to the left and after a few clicks to the right I used up all my clicks. I'll get back to the range and make the adjustments as you suggested. Thanks!
Get FX no limit scope rings, you can elevate the rear ring and leave the from ring at bottom. The process is once you bottom your elevation turret then back it off 1/4 turn. Then loosen the center bolt on both no limit rings just enough you can move the rear ring up keeping the from ring down, in steps loosing and tighten the center bolt to bring your shots and scope to zero at 50 yard. Doing this you will have more than enough elevation in your scope to reach the 100 yard and possibly further. Another advantage with the No limit ring if yous are concerned with keeping the optic internal lens in the center you can apply the above method to zero you scope with adjusting the elevation turret.
You can just shim the mounts , put two shims off a coke can on each saddle trim them nicely . It worked for me , i hated high mounts with 22s to much hold over and under at mid ranges , and at night when you cant determine ranges so well it bugged me so much i went 177 on low mounts . Stuck to a 14mm saddle height Tops ,
Dude, when u click up on your turret, your POI moves up.....your crosshair moves down. By increasing the height of the mounts your actually worsening the situation. your will have even less "Up" adjustment left, coz even more of your "Up" clicks will get used to zero. Get some adjustable mounts, or shim the rear mount.
... my Hawke Panoramic had too little elevation, so I used shims to get the rear up a little which gave my .22lr adjustment from 20M to 300 yards with 45 MoA of adjustment without changing my mounts...
My problem was opposite.I run out of clicks during zeroing . My gun was hitting high .so I have to put shims on front scope mount to increase the high.and that solved the issue.
Thank you so much for helping me to correct my Elevation problem. My Rifle' s P.O.I. is to the left, Now I have an issue with "Right Click Run Out" any solution here for that problem?
@@chevysilverado3150 once your out of clicks count every single click going backwards untill you run out of clicks doing it the opposite way. Once you know the amount of clicks it took to run out while going the opposite way from where you ran out you devide the number of click you counted by 2 for example it took 300 clicks from the position you first ran out at to get to the opposite end [300÷2= 150] count 150 click to the opposite side of where you "ran out from" i hope this makes sense. I suck at explaining things
@@madbroindustries well you forgot to say that after finding the optical zero at 150 clicks he should position the turret at that point and go from there.
You presented the concept of what is needed but not the solution, saying get ''bigger mounts'' is not a solution and very vague answer. I wish for a clearer solutions and recommendations in your future videos.
your "up clicks" thus implying you need more range. are in fact "down click's!" as down clicks would therefore be lowering the reticule "down towards the rifle's front sight", and in doing so you would then need to raze the mussel and therefore lifting the point of aim, resulting in a higher trajectory giving you more range. look at it this way, everything you think about doing with a rifle scope it is in reverse. let's say, the rifle is shooting to the left, so you need to move the point of aim towards the right, so you move your scope towards the right? so the effect on the point of aim is to move it over to the right, wrong, wrong, wrong! you moved your Recticel towards the left! you see it's all backwards! as is the direction arrows on the scope. it's done that way so as not to confuse you. the fastest way to zero a scope is bench rest the rifle and fire a shot at your target, but DO NOT move the rifle, hole it very still, look through the scope to see were the shot landed. now without moving the rifle and still looking through the scope turn the Dile's until the cross is over the mark where your shot landed. the next shot should be mighty close to being zeroed. most scopes but not all, are 1/8 on an inch at 100 yds for every click on the turret! a cheap scope maybe 1/4 of an inch at 100 yds, just how good a shot are you, better than 1/8 of an inch at 100 yds? play safe
Ok I understand that we want more up instead of down, because then we can adjust to further targets. But where is the solution for when we ran out of clicks? Or did I miss it?
I’ve always wondered about this especially on red dots so what do they call that as far as a wide range of elevation adjustments wide field of view?pov?
Having similar issue with FX Crown and Vortex Viper PST 2 5-25x50. 30m zero is 39 MoA very little elevation up adjustment left. Have very high mounts. What do I do?
I had the same problem with my Centerpoint scope, hitting the target too low.. I just put a shim under the scope at the front mount to lift the scope instead of buying new rings, job done!
same here. ran out of clicks at 25 yards all the way up to 50. so i zeroed my scope at 62 (comfortable amount of clicks) as far zero and close zero turned out to be at 17 using chairgun pro on my phone. i had to input every single thing like relevant humidity and such. anything in between 17-62 is a holdunder. got a close zero at 62 then did some REALLY fine adjustments indoor at 17 and all that is left is to see if i can hit 62 again. just experimenting. im not an expert by any means.
Can someone help me in my case Bullet hit under cross and when i want to turn the turret for zeroing Just little more turn before it zero but my turret look like already get max turn.its dont want to turn anymore what must i do ?
Shim the front mount between the mount and scope body. Plastic coated playing cards work well. Put a full piece first and check impact. Put 1/3 shims in after. You will run into the cards being too thick to let the scope ge by the sides of the mount.
Ok once your out of clicks count every single click going backwards untill you run out of clicks doing it the opposite way. Once you know the amount of clicks it took to run out while going the opposite way from where you ran out you devide the number of click you counted by 2 for example it took 300 clicks from the position you first ran out at to get to the opposite end [300÷2= 150] count 150 click to the opposite side of where you "ran out from" i hope this makes sense. I suck at explaining things
I am a long range shooter so what we do to get the max elevation travel from our elevation turret is to put a 20 moa or 30 moa rail on our rifles.
What this does is raises the the back of your scope that is nearest you the shooter and it gives you max. travel UP as you put it. So you basically need your ring at the rear of your scope (closest to the shooter) higher than the front of your scope ( end toward the end of your barrel. Keep in mind you just cant put a high ring in the back and a low ring in the front it would not set right in the rings. You will need a picatinny raid that does it for you. Just buying to high scope rings will not do this as you suggested in the video.
If your scope is running with to much up turns on top turret you will put it under to much strain inside and this will cause you to lose zero a lot more often, changing to higher mounts will not solve your issue it will only multiply it more so. Take your scope off the rifle and turn top turret to max up and stop do not force it then slowly rewind downwards counting full turns to the bottom or count how many click it takes to reach max bottom divide x2 and turn up to middle point. Now return scope back on rifle and fire 5 shots if the pellet is below the cross hairs you need to shim the back bottom mount with either 35mm camera film or a slice of coke can will do, but remember to place this under the scope and then fire another 5 shots don,t worrie about windage at this stage just up a d down if the pellet is still below the cross place another peice of film until you are shooting above the cross. Its the same as shooting above the cross you need the reverse and shim the front mount once you have your zero up and down centre work on the windage. Hope this helps.
You could also try turning the scope mounts around by putting the front on the back and the back on the front sometimes helps or buy sportsmatch adjustable mounts. As to buying taller mounts this will only make you raise your face and cheek higher to see down your scope znd will not help zeroing.
You may want to try this out. Return your scope to optical center. Then use a shim to adjust the scope initially. After you have shimmed you should need less elevation turret clicks to raise the reticle. I try not to adjust the turrets to their max since the erector tube spring will be either heavily compressed or will not have enough tension to keep the tube from "floating" around inside the scope tube.
Im learning about scope and according to the manual that came with my new purchase this is about the best thing you can do!
[They did sort of explain the maxing out issues with pictures]
I'm going to have to shim a 50x tactical scope. Thing won't go high enough to raise even close with bore sight. I first thought that maybe my bore sight isn't set correctly in barrel. Nope, borrowed a friend bore site and got same results.
Thanks for the video. Did it work as expected?
Just so effective as it is simple!!
Here is what I learned about scope mounting. I just received an AR-10 .308 Win and I put on it a Vortex Diamondback Tactical scope with a 50 mm objective bell. On some tall rings. And I could not get my laser bore sight and reticle cross hairs close to each other until max "up" turret rotation. I explained that problem to someone at my local gun store and he said what I needed was an "AR" mount for scopes. It is an offset piece with two rings built-in. This allows the base to be mounted over the action only and not on the floating MLOK handguard. And have respectable eye relief. And the most important part of that is ....
line of sight from eyeball to center line of the scope. Before, I was looking slightly down, which was throwing off the perception. Getting directly in line, I only needed on rotation from mechanical zero (It has a total range of 67 MOA.) So, that is the big thing. Where you can comfortably rest, is your eye focus directly in line with the center line of the scope?
Most rifles only need an UP elevation if you set the scope at 25 yards. Your theory of "more ups" is good. Left and right should be equal so center the adjusting knob before you begin any zeroing. I think Burris makes rings with cammed shims. The shims are not concentric so when you mount your scope, you can turn the shims and "wobble" the scope a bit left or right or up or down. Use a bore sighter to get the scope on paper and then tighten up the screws. This should help.
Can one perhaps shim the mounts with a reasonable material. There is a bit of length on the mounting hold down screws. I have the same issue as you have.
Sorry I hadn't read the previous comment on this. It makes sense.
Modern guns like taipan veteran comes with 20 MOA built into them so you don’t have to mess with adjustable mounts or shimming the rear mount to point the scope outer tube down. The turrets do the same but with the erector tube, alas they have limited travel don’t overadjust.
I had the same issue recently just trying to use bore laser to set gen. vertical in the area. Ran out with about 50 more clicks up needed.
If you reset the scope to central, you can zero the scope by shimming it. Alternatively you can use adjustable mounts.
good video , i would like to add , make sure that the mounts are tightened equally on the top and not more on one side than the other , and front to rear, these minor adjustments helped for me , i hope that it helps someone else !
Lower the scope is to the bore of the rifle the more elevation/clicks/dots/up you will have. It is a air gun so ur gonna have alot more drop than a actual rifle. Other than that ur gonna need a scope base rail thats angled foward to give u a little more elevation for those longer shots.
Your video answers my question. Ran out of windage clicks today and thought I broke my scope. I was shooting to high and it took many clicks to get my shots on the paper. Then it was shooting to the left and after a few clicks to the right I used up all my clicks. I'll get back to the range and make the adjustments as you suggested. Thanks!
Get FX no limit scope rings, you can elevate the rear ring and leave the from ring at bottom. The process is once you bottom your elevation turret then back it off 1/4 turn. Then loosen the center bolt on both no limit rings just enough you can move the rear ring up keeping the from ring down, in steps loosing and tighten the center bolt to bring your shots and scope to zero at 50 yard. Doing this you will have more than enough elevation in your scope to reach the 100 yard and possibly further.
Another advantage with the No limit ring if yous are concerned with keeping the optic internal lens in the center you can apply the above method to zero you scope with adjusting the elevation turret.
You can just shim the mounts , put two shims off a coke can on each saddle trim them nicely . It worked for me , i hated high mounts with 22s to much hold over and under at mid ranges , and at night when you cant determine ranges so well it bugged me so much i went 177 on low mounts . Stuck to a 14mm saddle height Tops ,
Dude, when u click up on your turret, your POI moves up.....your crosshair moves down. By increasing the height of the mounts your actually worsening the situation. your will have even less "Up" adjustment left, coz even more of your "Up" clicks will get used to zero. Get some adjustable mounts, or shim the rear mount.
... my Hawke Panoramic had too little elevation, so I used shims to get the rear up a little which gave my .22lr adjustment from 20M to 300 yards with 45 MoA of adjustment without changing my mounts...
My problem was opposite.I run out of clicks during zeroing . My gun was hitting high .so I have to put shims on front scope mount to increase the high.and that solved the issue.
Thank you so much for helping me to correct my Elevation problem. My Rifle' s P.O.I. is to the left, Now I have an issue with "Right Click Run Out" any solution here for that problem?
Hey man could you fix it mine has the same problem
@@chevysilverado3150 once your out of clicks count every single click going backwards untill you run out of clicks doing it the opposite way. Once you know the amount of clicks it took to run out while going the opposite way from where you ran out you devide the number of click you counted by 2 for example it took 300 clicks from the position you first ran out at to get to the opposite end [300÷2= 150] count 150 click to the opposite side of where you "ran out from" i hope this makes sense. I suck at explaining things
@@madbroindustries well you forgot to say that after finding the optical zero at 150 clicks he should position the turret at that point and go from there.
You presented the concept of what is needed but not the solution, saying get ''bigger mounts'' is not a solution and very vague answer.
I wish for a clearer solutions and recommendations in your future videos.
They sell 20 & 30 moa canted mounts
your "up clicks" thus implying you need more range. are in fact "down click's!" as down clicks would therefore be lowering the reticule "down towards the rifle's front sight", and in doing so you would then need to raze the mussel and therefore lifting the point of aim, resulting in a higher trajectory giving you more range. look at it this way, everything you think about doing with a rifle scope it is in reverse. let's say, the rifle is shooting to the left, so you need to move the point of aim towards the right, so you move your scope towards the right? so the effect on the point of aim is to move it over to the right, wrong, wrong, wrong! you moved your Recticel towards the left! you see it's all backwards! as is the direction arrows on the scope. it's done that way so as not to confuse you. the fastest way to zero a scope is bench rest the rifle and fire a shot at your target, but DO NOT move the rifle, hole it very still, look through the scope to see were the shot landed. now without moving the rifle and still looking through the scope turn the Dile's until the cross is over the mark where your shot landed. the next shot should be mighty close to being zeroed. most scopes but not all, are 1/8 on an inch at 100 yds for every click on the turret! a cheap scope maybe 1/4 of an inch at 100 yds, just how good a shot are you, better than 1/8 of an inch at 100 yds? play safe
Ok I understand that we want more up instead of down, because then we can adjust to further targets. But where is the solution for when we ran out of clicks? Or did I miss it?
I’ve always wondered about this especially on red dots so what do they call that as far as a wide range of elevation adjustments wide field of view?pov?
My problem is i run out of clicks going up but my shots are still way to below my target, what should i do
Wait what ??? Where is the solution, when we ran out of clicks ? Or its just the content i didnt get it .
It helps me a lot same problem on a hawke vantage fast mount mounts are CRAP would not even fit into rail properly ta m8
Same mate I’m having loads of trouble with the mounts on the fast mount scope, shooting too low
Yea shim only back mont I had same problem with 380 pond hawk scope air max
Having similar issue with FX Crown and Vortex Viper PST 2 5-25x50. 30m zero is 39 MoA very little elevation up adjustment left. Have very high mounts. What do I do?
I had the same problem with my Centerpoint scope, hitting the target too low.. I just put a shim under the scope at the front mount to lift the scope instead of buying new rings, job done!
That was actually really helpful bud. You explained it really well
My scope isn’t moving at all anyone know if I can fix it? Would be very helpful
Why not just zero a little farther out?
He cant due to where he zeros his rifle at home
They are medium size. I tried smaller? The scope still hits high & scope hits the barrel of the riffle. It's driving me crazy
I have the exact opposite situation.
I'm having a problem. My riffle ran out of clicks also. Changed 3 different scopes & still hitting my targets high. Any suggestions?
What size mounts are you using, I increased the size of mine and have tried an adjustable mount?
I'm using medium size
same here. ran out of clicks at 25 yards all the way up to 50. so i zeroed my scope at 62 (comfortable amount of clicks) as far zero and close zero turned out to be at 17 using chairgun pro on my phone. i had to input every single thing like relevant humidity and such. anything in between 17-62 is a holdunder. got a close zero at 62 then did some REALLY fine adjustments indoor at 17 and all that is left is to see if i can hit 62 again. just experimenting. im not an expert by any means.
Abdulla Al Khalifa . I found out I went my barrel . I don't even know how. But it's bent up
get a scope with a bigger tube and if that is not enough get a adjustable mount.
Can someone help me in my case
Bullet hit under cross and when i want to turn the turret for zeroing
Just little more turn before it zero but my turret look like already get max turn.its dont want to turn anymore what must i do ?
Shim the front mount between the mount and scope body. Plastic coated playing cards work well. Put a full piece first and check impact. Put 1/3 shims in after. You will run into the cards being too thick to let the scope ge by the sides of the mount.
get rid of your mounting rail and get a 0 MOA mounting rail
THE END !
A fold of duct tape under the scope on the rear mount. Easy peasy cheap as chips. Never had a problem..
It ALL depends on how far you're taking your impact.
If you can help me my problem is to adjust my scope to the right i ve run out of clicks
Dude. It CRACKS ME UP that you are shooting that moon scope at 50 yards!:):):)
The solution is very, very simple -- you put a few layers of scotch tapes on the front ring, and then put the scope on.
Good job thanks
I have a problem zeroing my pellets hit 1 half inch left of target and i run out of clicks.please help
Ok once your out of clicks count every single click going backwards untill you run out of clicks doing it the opposite way. Once you know the amount of clicks it took to run out while going the opposite way from where you ran out you devide the number of click you counted by 2 for example it took 300 clicks from the position you first ran out at to get to the opposite end [300÷2= 150] count 150 click to the opposite side of where you "ran out from" i hope this makes sense. I suck at explaining things
Turn it upside down 😂
Hum….hum…..hum…
Erm erm erm your erm erm very erm confusing try writing down what you want to say and stop repeating yourself.
Foolish people talk too much