The exact same thing happened to me last night in that exact same spot with the antifreeze pouring out. I plugged it back up and headed to the you tubes!
That sucks!. Not a real fun deal. Mine seems to be much better after the "fix". But I think I may have learned a bit more during the repair that I plan to improve on at some point. Good luck!
Common area, for sure, for leaks. Not completely sure why, but I think it has to do with the block temp. differences from the front of the block to the back when running. I did not see you do it, but did you check both the manifold and the block with a straight edge? Manifold is just as likely or more to be the issue as the block. The block pitting did not look too bad based on the video, but that step in the machining caught my eye. Not sure what is up with that as I do not recall seeing that on the engines I have worked on. I would recommend replacing those bolts with some studs and some brass nuts. In addition, a little trick on the leaky exhaust clamp is aluminum foil. Roll it up and form it to fit inside the clamp (making sure not to install the clamp upside-down) and it will act as an exhaust gasket and clean up a lot of that leak.
You are probably correct, block temp is the main issue. I didn't put a straight edge on it at all. The step is odd, but falls outside the gasket area. I figured the liquid steel would fill the pitting and then could be sanded. Yes, my manifold is slightly pitted as well. I did fill it in, however. I didn't film or talk about it because from the naked eye I know the leak was between the block and the gasket, not the gasket and the manifold. The new studs and nuts are in my amazon cart already. I wanted to make the video with the old bolts being a problem, since I believe more people have that issue than don't. I actually have put aluminum foil in the exhaust pipe prior. worked great! last year I removed the exhaust to look at a dent on the inside and didn't replace the foil. I need to replace the muffler, on the giant list of things to fix. haha Thanks for watching and the great advice!
I'm not sure how much of a 'permanent' fix this will be. Certainly the pitting and the irregular surface area is the cause of the gasket not making a proper seal around that area, and maybe the thermosteel might help with that. The bolts contribute to this issue, for sure. Somewhere in this tractor's glorious past, a farmer broke the studs in the block - probably over torqued the nuts and stripped the threads off the studs, or broke them outright. They drilled them out with a larger size, screwed in a bolt, then cut that one (and didn't cut it flush with the block), then drilled that out and tapped it for the bolts. If it was just the farmer doing this, out in the field doing what he could to get the poor gal through just another harvest, then there could be even more underlying problems. It's quite possible that they didn't get everything centered, and the bolts the farmer used to tap into the block could also protrude way further into the water jacket, and this can also cause an area where coolant isn't able to properly circulate, calcium buildups, and further make worse the ability for the back of the block to shed off heat. And that brings me to another worry I would have: On top of heat not dissipating properly, there is also the unknown hardness-density of the bolts the farmer put in vs the cast iron block. The two take to heat differently, and that puts the softer and aging cast-iron block at risk of cracking in that area. A more permanent fix would be to take it to a machinist and have them inspect it, grind flat the manifold area, and insert two proper posts. A replacement exhaust-intake manifold for the N-series can be found on about any site that sells tractor parts. Not as cheap of a fix as the thermosteel, for sure, but it would have the added benefit of ensuring that any other problems from the 'poor farmer fix' don't later come back and bite you in the a$$. I do hope that your fix holds out though! These old Ford-Ns are the epitome of reliability in simplicity. The 4cyl L-head is, afterall, the same engine Ford designed and made for their Model As back in 1928, and it takes nothing short of dropping them off a 10 story building to truly kill them.
One thing is for certain. These tractors are a national treasure. Most of the current owners are not the originals. I have often wondered about the history of this tractor. Everything it has been through since 1949. Amazing.
@@LohreFarm They are indeed a national treasure.. I truly think the old saying "They sure don't make 'em like they used to" was in direct reference to a Ford N-tractor. Each one of these old gals have their own personality. No two will start up exactly the same, and every one of these I've looked at have little odd quirks and strange repairs that can tell a story. I've got an 8n from 52' (with the proofmeter) that I'm currently restoring, and the old farmer that had it originally really depended on her during some tough times - She's got an odd-sized rear tire that is two sizes larger than the 11.8-28, which gives her quite the list, and you can just tell the old gal was relied on heavily to get the farmer by. I'm hoping to give her the pampering she deserves.
I would have looked at the manifold and the block. But i would have used the coper gasket spray. It workes great for this. It can go on thick if you need it. And it will seal great. I use it for my hit miss engins. I would use it for my 9n tractor when i get it running if i have the same problem. And if its the manifold i would file it or try another gasket to.
@KollynJ every situation is different. I could have probably gotten away with new gasket and copper seal, but I wanted to try to smooth it out. Good luck!
Two reasons. 1. I think that more people than should be are in a similar situation, where they have bolts that were placed in to replace the studs. Very frustrating. 2. As much, if not more can be learned from the UA-cam comments as can be learned from the videos themselves. Your suggestion will be very beneficial to others. Thank you!
The exact same thing happened to me last night in that exact same spot with the antifreeze pouring out. I plugged it back up and headed to the you tubes!
That sucks!. Not a real fun deal. Mine seems to be much better after the "fix". But I think I may have learned a bit more during the repair that I plan to improve on at some point. Good luck!
Very cool!
Thanks Dan! That stuff worked pretty good.
Common area, for sure, for leaks. Not completely sure why, but I think it has to do with the block temp. differences from the front of the block to the back when running. I did not see you do it, but did you check both the manifold and the block with a straight edge? Manifold is just as likely or more to be the issue as the block. The block pitting did not look too bad based on the video, but that step in the machining caught my eye. Not sure what is up with that as I do not recall seeing that on the engines I have worked on. I would recommend replacing those bolts with some studs and some brass nuts. In addition, a little trick on the leaky exhaust clamp is aluminum foil. Roll it up and form it to fit inside the clamp (making sure not to install the clamp upside-down) and it will act as an exhaust gasket and clean up a lot of that leak.
You are probably correct, block temp is the main issue. I didn't put a straight edge on it at all. The step is odd, but falls outside the gasket area. I figured the liquid steel would fill the pitting and then could be sanded. Yes, my manifold is slightly pitted as well. I did fill it in, however. I didn't film or talk about it because from the naked eye I know the leak was between the block and the gasket, not the gasket and the manifold. The new studs and nuts are in my amazon cart already. I wanted to make the video with the old bolts being a problem, since I believe more people have that issue than don't. I actually have put aluminum foil in the exhaust pipe prior. worked great! last year I removed the exhaust to look at a dent on the inside and didn't replace the foil. I need to replace the muffler, on the giant list of things to fix. haha Thanks for watching and the great advice!
I'm not sure how much of a 'permanent' fix this will be. Certainly the pitting and the irregular surface area is the cause of the gasket not making a proper seal around that area, and maybe the thermosteel might help with that.
The bolts contribute to this issue, for sure. Somewhere in this tractor's glorious past, a farmer broke the studs in the block - probably over torqued the nuts and stripped the threads off the studs, or broke them outright. They drilled them out with a larger size, screwed in a bolt, then cut that one (and didn't cut it flush with the block), then drilled that out and tapped it for the bolts. If it was just the farmer doing this, out in the field doing what he could to get the poor gal through just another harvest, then there could be even more underlying problems. It's quite possible that they didn't get everything centered, and the bolts the farmer used to tap into the block could also protrude way further into the water jacket, and this can also cause an area where coolant isn't able to properly circulate, calcium buildups, and further make worse the ability for the back of the block to shed off heat.
And that brings me to another worry I would have: On top of heat not dissipating properly, there is also the unknown hardness-density of the bolts the farmer put in vs the cast iron block. The two take to heat differently, and that puts the softer and aging cast-iron block at risk of cracking in that area.
A more permanent fix would be to take it to a machinist and have them inspect it, grind flat the manifold area, and insert two proper posts. A replacement exhaust-intake manifold for the N-series can be found on about any site that sells tractor parts. Not as cheap of a fix as the thermosteel, for sure, but it would have the added benefit of ensuring that any other problems from the 'poor farmer fix' don't later come back and bite you in the a$$.
I do hope that your fix holds out though! These old Ford-Ns are the epitome of reliability in simplicity. The 4cyl L-head is, afterall, the same engine Ford designed and made for their Model As back in 1928, and it takes nothing short of dropping them off a 10 story building to truly kill them.
One thing is for certain. These tractors are a national treasure. Most of the current owners are not the originals. I have often wondered about the history of this tractor. Everything it has been through since 1949. Amazing.
@@LohreFarm They are indeed a national treasure.. I truly think the old saying "They sure don't make 'em like they used to" was in direct reference to a Ford N-tractor.
Each one of these old gals have their own personality. No two will start up exactly the same, and every one of these I've looked at have little odd quirks and strange repairs that can tell a story.
I've got an 8n from 52' (with the proofmeter) that I'm currently restoring, and the old farmer that had it originally really depended on her during some tough times - She's got an odd-sized rear tire that is two sizes larger than the 11.8-28, which gives her quite the list, and you can just tell the old gal was relied on heavily to get the farmer by. I'm hoping to give her the pampering she deserves.
@@aaronmichaelelliott4600 That’s awesome. Get her all fixed up and make sure I get to see some photos!
Did you check the manifold flatness?
Eyeball. Which is junk. I really just want to try the product and see how it went. But you are right, it should be something to look at.
I would have looked at the manifold and the block. But i would have used the coper gasket spray. It workes great for this. It can go on thick if you need it. And it will seal great. I use it for my hit miss engins. I would use it for my 9n tractor when i get it running if i have the same problem. And if its the manifold i would file it or try another gasket to.
I agree. I think the copper gasket is the better way to go on this. The pitting isn’t terrible but just enough.
How thick can it go? My exhaust manifold has warping and putting put also has raised surfaces around the ports so I can’t file it
That’ll hold her for good long while did the same thing to mine except I JB welded the new gasket to the block but mine was much worse than yours!😀🇨🇦
Sheeesh. You gotta do what you gotta do. Thanks for watching!
How’d it hold up?
Seems to be fine so far.
Did you use rtf or any other sealant after the quick steel. Should I?
@KollynJ every situation is different. I could have probably gotten away with new gasket and copper seal, but I wanted to try to smooth it out. Good luck!
@@LohreFarm sweet. Just figuring copper seal snd new gasket and quick steel you can’t go wrong
I think it's more the old manifolds than it is the blocks, mine I can tell the manifold has a slight taper on both ends....I'm not sure just my theory
I actually agree. The manifolds are the cause of most of this issue.
You need brass nuts! Copper gasket spray both sides of gasket and problem solved.
You are 100% correct. This will solve most gasket leak issues.
Why not just drain the cooling system first
Two reasons. 1. I think that more people than should be are in a similar situation, where they have bolts that were placed in to replace the studs. Very frustrating. 2. As much, if not more can be learned from the UA-cam comments as can be learned from the videos themselves. Your suggestion will be very beneficial to others. Thank you!