You dont smear it down, you apply a bead with the aplicator tip on the center and around the holes. It will squease itself once you install the pan. Then let cure for 24 hrs before adding oil. No leaks.
Noble is right you don't smear it. You let the pressure of screwing the pan back in to smear it for you because it fills out better. It won't over apply with a single bead.
You dont smear it down, you apply a bead with the aplicator tip on the center and around the holes. It will squease itself once you install the pan. Then let cure for 24 hrs before adding oil. No leaks.
Agree, but slight smearing helps eliminate the over applications when it's not applied perfectly the way you are saying.
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Noble is right you don't smear it. You let the pressure of screwing the pan back in to smear it for you because it fills out better. It won't over apply with a single bead.
@@Rawk_Oneyes and no only because if you have rtv squeezing on the inside you’ll just have rtv flying in your oil pan into your baffle
this channel is the best, subscribed
With black silicone i just use 4 bolt and that's it rest bolt goes in spare box
When should I add oil?
I need to remove an oil pan that was installed with gasket sealer and no gasket. Can't get the pan to separate. Any ideas on how to do that?
Blade
@@0222tomi Got it. I had accidentally missed a couple bolts!
Rubber mallet
@@Epiphalactic Thanks but I got the problem solved several months ago. I am rather old, 71, and I somehow missed 2 bolts! Got those and off it came.
Lol
You should be using black silicone, not high temp red. The red doesn’t like oil.
True but the red one doesnt cement the pan to the block easily. Grey is the worst n Black is prolly the better one as you said.
There is a gasket. So this should not be titled "jnstead of a gasket"