Cody, I can't tell you how helpful this was to me. We bought our land last year and I've been sawing and clearing the homesite since then. Now one had ever shown me this stuff. I now will be able to maintain my saws properly. Thank you sir! All the best to you and your family.
6 years later and this video is still helpful. I just sharpened a chainsaw for the first time (with training wheels) and it cuts amazing now. Thanks again Cody.
There are so many "tutorials" out there, on many topics that are vague,unclear and frustrating to try and follow. This was not one of them. Very good job. Thank you for not only doing it but also thinking about how you did it before the fact.
Nice job again Cody. Very well done! I'm glad you put this up again for folks.. I have sent the past saw sharpnng video to everbody who ask me how to sharpen a chain saw. Sure is better than trying to discuss over the phone.
I just purchased the files and guides but this video gave the the knowledge to use them properly. Excellent introduction to chainsaw sharpening. Thanks!
This was real helpful. I have begun to sharpen mine this way. Just remember, it takes a little practice but well worth it. The hardware store I used to go to charged me $ 12.00 each chain. I bought good files and raker guide and they paid for themselves already. Thanks Cody
thanks so much. finally found someone who knew what they were talkin about and knows what there doing. and thanks for includeing the part about the drags.
Thanks for the video. I watched a couple other vids on this prior to yours. The other guys didn't know what they were doing. You vid is easy to understand even for a newbe like me. I messed up my chain by allowing it to cut though to the rocky ground. I used it once and had to put a new chain on my saw. Now I know how to sharpen my chains correctly.
Well done as usual Cody. I was a logger years ago and one tip an old timer gave me was to get used to filing with both hands. By that I mean use your right hand to file the right side and your left hand to file the left. Keeps everything even. As far as the file gauge, the file handle has the angle already on it. take a look, 25 or 30 degree.
Hello Wranglerstar, greetings from England. Today I used the info you put in this video to great effect. It is great to have this resource on the internet. Thanks.
Great instructional video. I like the scripture reference at the beginning, too. Well done. Thanks for the time you took to make this available. Very helpful!
a lot of people keep their chain tighter than that,and thats how i learned. However, from experience, i always found my looser chain (like you spec) worked better and seemed to work more freely. good video.
The "rake" as you call it - we call it the toe in the UK is very important as it acts as a feed into the wood, if this is too low (I know a lot of people do this to get a faster cut) you have a much higher chance of Kick Back, so it is also a very crucial safety feature. we do ours probally every 3-4 sharpens but you get to tell from the feel of the cut. Great Vid!!!!
Because of you I just bought my first chainsaw for my homestead I just also purchased. I got a stihl 026 model because of your personal reviews and others. Thanks for all your vids.
Lest anyone misunderstand, the chainsaw file is not a "rat tail" file. It does not taper. You will get very bad results if you do have a tapering rat tail file and use it on a chain saw chain. Like Cody says, look up the correct file that is meant for your chain size and style, and you can enjoy using it with good results. Read your saw manual. They wrote that to help you get the best service from your saw. Just look up the thing you are dealing with, which in this case is chain sharpening.
cont... I hope that makes sense since I understand from teaching experience, that demonstration in this is key over verbal description. You are correct in the chain behavior when you haven't filed your raker and the teeth are about half their life in sharpening. I would like to add that as a rule of thumb in chain tension, I would teach that when you have the bar nuts loose and the saw setting flat on the ground, tighten until the drivers raise until they marry up with the bar and stop.
I really enjoy your your helpful tips Mr W, im a new subscriber, and kinda new at youtubing. One thing i might add as to the tautness of a chain, is remove it from the vise, loosen the two nuts from the chain brake, grab the tip of the bar between your thumb and finger, lift until there is no slack left hanging, then tighten the 2 nuts back up while your still holding the nose tip upward. Im sure that most of your subscribers already know this tip. 4th generation logger myself, but always looking for tips and tricks to improve. Thanks for your videos.
Thanks! I am new to using a chainsaw and your, "get to the point', well explained and informative video helped me sharpen my chain for the first time, fast and with perfect effect. I am grateful.
OK 1st and foremost, this guy knows his stuff. His tips and suggestions are on mark. 2nd, you don't need to mark any teeth in an effort to show where you started filing your chain. If you feel you need to do this, you probably should be using a file guide. Just look for the shiny metal underneath the cutterhead when the chain comes back around. It should look a lot different than a dull tooth, and trust me, you'll be waiting for it and will probably discover it 4 or 5 teeth before it gets to you. Only other thing to remember: your chain has to ride on what is basically a railroad track (the bar rails). If one is higher than the other then the chain will lean to the lower side. A leaning chain can cause you to cut curves. No fun and not productive, no matter how sharp your chain is. That means you have to file down the high side to the same height as the low one. Careful doing this because there will inherently be metal slivers which will become metal splinters. Just be aware of it and you'll know what to do. Google it, as I'm sure there are some videos.
the rakers regulate the depth of the cut. if they are to tall the chain will skip and produce a dusty chip with little cutting progress, if they are to short the teeth will cut to deep and will bog the saw down creating a jerking like effect while cutting. crooked cuts and rough cuts are from improperly sharpened cutting teeth. Making sure each tooth is the same size and angle will produce smooth clean cuts. a properly sharpened chain will reduce wear are tear on the power head, use less fuel, cut faster, in crease chain life and reduce the chances of kickback. Wranglerstar love your videos. thanks for taking your time in your work and sharing with others
After all of the time I have spent watching video on how to sharpen a chainsaw, this is by far the best I have seen! Sharpening a chain is not rocket science, it is just common sense. Very well explained. Thank you!
Wranglerstar, your a good guy for sharing your knowledge, I've picked up some good tips from you. You mentioned about the rakers cleaning out the wood from the cut. I was told the rakers are what determine the depth the tooth cuts, as in if they are too high you will not be able to cut with speed and you will notice the saw dust is finer and the saw motor will rev higher too. An old wise guy told me also that how you absolutely know when they need to be filed is they will be shiny, thus showing they are meeting the wood before the tooth does, hence filing is needed.
I agree with the carvinrigged comments....I also have watched a lot of sharpening videos on UA-cam and your video is, by far, the best ! Very informative.video. God Bless. FD
Wranglerstar dont tighten the chain when it get hot u will make the chain snap because when it heats it expands and when it cools it shrinks back so when u tighten the chain when its hot it will get even tighter when it cools off so plz take this to heart
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. One tip I can add about the bar oil is, with a freshly cut log facing the cut, hold the tip of the chain about 2 inches away and rev the saw up for a few seconds. You should see bar oil spitting onto the log. Now this is only useful for the saws with automatic oilers. This way you know if the oiler is working or maybe plugged, or what ever.
We've talked a few times Wranglerstar... It's that time of year once more and I'm taking a few more dead standing hardwoods for the winter fires up here in the Northeast! I have an MS 311 which is a bit too much for my girly back because... well... I'm a girl... but I wanted to mention.. just to make it EVEN easier a Stihl chain also has one link that is painted a different color (gads I'm in the kitchen and my saw is not here at the moment but I want to say the one link in the chain is painted green (though it would make more sense if it were orange but I seem to remember that its green) So if all the nice people here learning how to manage sharpening properly find that one link, you can start there and then not make the mistake of sharpening every tooth and then a few more by accident, because consistency is the key in this! I take 3 even swipes with the file and guide. I don't get rid of those "training wheels" and you're right the guide is exactly that, but it takes away some of the human error (and yes we all have that.. admit it folks!) And I would say remember that your Stihl should be throwing chunks. If it isn't you shouldn't be cutting for the mere reason that if you're getting all that super fine saw dust from your saw, its likely getting in your eyes and you should never be sawing if you can't see properly! Chain saws are OBSCENELY DANGEROUS! It is the most important thing you should remember at every moment! So you should instead have small chips of wood ( eh... somewhere between 1/2 a centimeter to a centimeter ) This is an excellent video Wranglerstar! No one will walk away from it with questions and if they do this is a great and friendly place to ask those questions because no one is born knowing how to sharpen a chainsaw... its a learned skill. You'll find too that your skill will increase as you perform the sharpening and your saw will cut better after having sharpened it 5 or 6 times, once you've become more comfortable with the task. That's mostly what I wanted to say but its funny story time as well! My husband and I were out cutting about a week ago. We never cut without the other being there because using a chainsaw is obscenely dangerous! We take turns generally. I take 5 cuts or so then he takes 10 and we give the saw a break, allow it to cool a bit and move some of the wood. So here we were cutting and doing a fine job but he had to go put some shoes on a horse. While he went and did that I brought my saw to the kitchen, I took out my Q-tips (yeah I don't have compressed air btw for me its Q-tips and very gentle cleaning of the bar oil channels with a straightened paper clip ...VERY GENTLE!!! You don't want to scratch the metal on the inside, it will simply become a better place for the saw dust to collect!) This is btw, how a girl cleans a chainsaw... with Q-tips and my husband has no issues with it because I actually get it clean! I save all the bits of oil soaked saw dust and the used Q-tips ... great fire starters in an outdoor fire pit! So I took it apart I cleaned it, I sharpened it to perfection, turned the bar over.... the whole thing. He gets home and I'm called away! We finally get back together and we still have a couple of hours of light. He starts sawing and here I am watching the saw throw nearly mulch sized chunks (okay yes I'm exaggerating but they were the biggest I've ever seen and even bigger than a brand new blade gives us) So he finally shuts it off and here I am ... typical woman... fishing for a compliment... I say to him "Hey its throwing nice chunks huh?" He answers "Yeah I just sharpened it!" I WAS SO DISAPPOINTED! lololol I still haven't told him that I sharpened it as well. You may think that's odd to not tell him but every time you sharpen any tool you are taking a bit more of the metal away. My husband is a farrier and his hoof knife that he uses to mostly pare down the sole of the horse's foot also loses metal every time he sharpens it which is before each horse. Your chainsaw blade goes through just as much hard work. Really and truly by double sharpening it that day, we had taken away the ability for that chain to be sharpened one time and it was purely by accident (and poor communication but wanting to please our mate too so I suppose that has some value) Well at least it also got a very thorough cleaning that day as well!!! Cheers to you and your family Wranglerstar!!! Say hi to the Mrs. for me from the other side of the states! Be safe. Be careful!!!
Fenikkusuuk: Dear Mrs Fenikkusuuk, It's been a while since you wrote your piece here, but just in case you ever check back here, I wanted to reply. So, greetings from the north end of the Sierras! (Northeastern California mountains.) First, I was a widower for 17 years. But the Lord recently gave me a good Christian wife. (SO nice to have that companionship & fellowship again!) And New Wife is a budding woodswoman too. So I shared your complete story with her. She was nodding, with a big smile. At the end she affirmed that a paper clip and Qtip were good choices, and just what she would have used. Regarding the chain, the green link indicates that it is a safety chain. Look at some other chains if you get a chance. They may have a yellow link. Or no colored link. You will see that your safety chain has some extra bumps on the links between the cutting teeth. Without my going into detail, it's something the factory did to reduces chances of certain mishaps with a running saw. Anyway, you are a good writer and we enjoyed your submitting those things.
Mostly good imformation- clear & easy - I called rakers that for years- in truth the modern term "depth gauge" is better as they only really set the depth of cut by the follwing tooth -the tooth takes the chips it cuts with it- not the raker/depth gauge- I would teach to file these 1st if needed as it's very easy to slip with the flat file & ruin the edge of a cutting tooth, whereas there is no chance of touching a raker/ depth gauge while sharpening the tooth. that aside - good video mate.
The only addition I use is: I remove the bar and lightly grind the bar to square it up. (the rails) This ensures that the chain tracks squarely. Please note: I have a grinder that is parallel to the belt and wheel. Most homeowners dont have this ability. I have done this with a file, but it takes time and knowing how to do it. Guess being in the machine business has it's advantages. Glad to see someone else has a fork truck in their shop too!!
The guide tool that you showed that clamps on to the bar is very useful when sharpening chain saws. You said it was slow but it takes less than a minute to clamp onto the bar and set it up and you can file the chain faster once it is set up.
Thank you for sharing all this information and helping to keep people safe. I watch some of your videos again each time I get ready to pickup my chainsaw. As a reminder of maintenance safety. So far no errors and no injuries, thanks again and God Bless.
Thanks very much for the great video. I've always been somewhat sharpening challenged until having watched this. You put things into simple to follow instructions which have allowed me to put an incredible edge onto my chains.
Thank Bernfya for posting his comments about the file guide being necessary. It doesn't just give angle guidance for the cutting angle, it does as he points out also help with the creation of the gullet- which peels away the 'kerf',chip or whatever you want to call it (look end on at the file in situ and you'll notice that a small portion is held above the bed of the guide and so doesn't come in contact with the tooth-so you don't need to "file in a slightly upward direction")
Sorry for digging up an old video. Weather is terrible in N.MN right now. I have to disagree on the Granberg-style file guide. 40 years ago, when I hadn't any experience with maintaining saw chain, I used one about 2-3 times during the life of each chain to restore chain angles uniformly. Also good if chain hits rock or metal. Over time, I learned to file more accurately and use the jig rarely, but still have one or two in my workshop. Agree wholeheartedly on buying quality files.
That was really informative. I've only used the table mounted electric sharpener but never tried by hand. Didn't know that about the takers either, thanks again.
Great vid. Exactly how I sharpeen mine! Also any sprocket bar will have the grease holes. Even my 14" poulan and my 8" polesaw bars. Theyb put those holes there for a reason so make sure to grease them
loved the end... never let anyone borrow ur chain saw. I had somone think they were doing me a favour and they resharpened it badly, more on one side than the other and it cut like a damn banana! I fiddled with it but just ended up buying a new chain.
First of all... I have used the "don't loan out your wife or chainsaw" line many times. Second, I have sharpened my Stihl chainsaws for years, but have never been completely satisfied with my results. This should help... When do you know it's too far gone? Is there a rule of thumb about how much of the blade is left before you chunk it? Thanks, alan
Amen, my wife is mine and my saw is my bread and butter.Very good common since advice.I hope that just one do it yourselfer learned something.A chain saw can be dangerous but a dull saw is worse.Thanx for all your advice.Go with god!
Not bad, two things i'd also recommend. One is marking the first tooth with a marker so one knows where they started and engaging the chain brake whilst sharpening. In my opinion that chain was too loose, with the chain that loose your going to be stopping fairly often to retension it. Give it another bit of tension. I find an extra stroke or two on ones weak side (left for me) balances the teeth and keeps her cutting straight. Grease your drive sprocket when your greasing the bar sprocket.
Great video as usual ! I try to file the rakers (depth gauges) first then sharpen cutters just in case your flat file glances off a cutter occasionally. Just an idea. Otherwise your batting a thousand !! Keep up the good work !
Got one of those multi piece kits and wasn't sure what some of it was for. Your video cleared that up and also showed me that for the past 20 years I have not been doing it exactly right. No wonder my chains dull so fast after I am done with them.
Chainsaw sharpening is fun, i had to do it for a year, we lived on a cabin in the blue ridge mountains on out vacation property. i became quit good at it.
Great video on chainsaw sharpening had just bought a file kit with limited instructions watched your video and I have all the info I need thanks Gareth
your comment about cleaning the lubrication ports, i had always done this but felt it was an unneccasary precaution, just cuz im new to the chainsaw world. but hearing it from an older more experienced chainsaw user i feel like i knew thing about saws that i didnt know i knew, lol.
12 years later.... A big help to a new chainsaw user. Thanks.
man this goes back in time!!! God has blessed you immensely Cody!!!
I’ve never touched a chainsaw in my life and it’s 11:24 at night all I can say is I just learned how to sharpen one and I feel proud
Cody, I can't tell you how helpful this was to me. We bought our land last year and I've been sawing and clearing the homesite since then. Now one had ever shown me this stuff. I now will be able to maintain my saws properly. Thank you sir! All the best to you and your family.
Love the proverb, “Iron sharpens iron. So one man sharpens another”
6 years later and this video is still helpful. I just sharpened a chainsaw for the first time (with training wheels) and it cuts amazing now. Thanks again Cody.
Watched a lot of DYI videos and this one is one of the better ones. Didn't drag out useless info or malfunctions. Nice video keep them coming!
There are so many "tutorials" out there, on many topics that are vague,unclear and frustrating to try and follow. This was not one of them. Very good job. Thank you for not only doing it but also thinking about how you did it before the fact.
by far the best chain sharpening video on youtube
Nice job again Cody. Very well done! I'm glad you put this up again for folks.. I have sent the past saw sharpnng video to everbody who ask me how to sharpen a chain saw. Sure is better than trying to discuss over the phone.
One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen.
Thanks
I just purchased the files and guides but this video gave the the knowledge to use them properly. Excellent introduction to chainsaw sharpening. Thanks!
This was real helpful. I have begun to sharpen mine this way. Just remember, it takes a little practice but well worth it. The hardware store I used to go to charged me $ 12.00 each chain. I bought good files and raker guide and they paid for themselves already. Thanks Cody
The best chainsaw sharpening video yet
Great teacher! Clear concise explanations!!! Fantastic Job. God bless ya!
thanks so much. finally found someone who knew what they were talkin about and knows what there doing. and thanks for includeing the part about the drags.
Thanks for the video. I watched a couple other vids on this prior to yours. The other guys didn't know what they were doing. You vid is easy to understand even for a newbe like me. I messed up my chain by allowing it to cut though to the rocky ground. I used it once and had to put a new chain on my saw. Now I know how to sharpen my chains correctly.
Well done as usual Cody. I was a logger years ago and one tip an old timer gave me was to get used to filing with both hands. By that I mean use your right hand to file the right side and your left hand to file the left. Keeps everything even. As far as the file gauge, the file handle has the angle already on it. take a look, 25 or 30 degree.
Hello Wranglerstar, greetings from England. Today I used the info you put in this video to great effect. It is great to have this resource on the internet. Thanks.
20 years ago and you're still going strong!
still watch all your videos over and over. Production is great and the intel is spectacular.
Great instructional video. I like the scripture reference at the beginning, too. Well done. Thanks for the time you took to make this available. Very helpful!
a lot of people keep their chain tighter than that,and thats how i learned. However, from experience, i always found my looser chain (like you spec) worked better and seemed to work more freely. good video.
The "rake" as you call it - we call it the toe in the UK is very important as it acts as a feed into the wood, if this is too low (I know a lot of people do this to get a faster cut) you have a much higher chance of Kick Back, so it is also a very crucial safety feature. we do ours probally every 3-4 sharpens but you get to tell from the feel of the cut.
Great Vid!!!!
Because of you I just bought my first chainsaw for my homestead I just also purchased. I got a stihl 026 model because of your personal reviews and others. Thanks for all your vids.
Best instruction video I have watched for a while, clear and informative - well done
Im new to this and you sir just saved me a lot of head ache and money in the future. Appreciated greatly! Go Iowa!
Simple, accurate advice. Thanks for taking the time to teach us all!
I have been using a chainsaw for years but always hated sharpening it. Thanks for the video!
Thanks Cody. It's nice to get a rundown on how to sharpen a chainsaw the "proper" way.
A1 - really helpful, I was mystified and wary, this has explained it so well. Def the best explanation I've seen. Thanks very much. You're a star!
Lest anyone misunderstand, the chainsaw file is not a "rat tail" file. It does not taper. You will get very bad results if you do have a tapering rat tail file and use it on a chain saw chain.
Like Cody says, look up the correct file that is meant for your chain size and style, and you can enjoy using it with good results.
Read your saw manual. They wrote that to help you get the best service from your saw. Just look up the thing you are dealing with, which in this case is chain sharpening.
cont...
I hope that makes sense since I understand from teaching experience, that demonstration in this is key over verbal description.
You are correct in the chain behavior when you haven't filed your raker and the teeth are about half their life in sharpening.
I would like to add that as a rule of thumb in chain tension, I would teach that when you have the bar nuts loose and the saw setting flat on the ground, tighten until the drivers raise until they marry up with the bar and stop.
Without a doubt, the most informative and useful video on chainsaw sharpening and adjusting! Thank you!
I really enjoy your your helpful tips Mr W, im a new subscriber, and kinda new at youtubing. One thing i might add as to the tautness of a chain, is remove it from the vise, loosen the two nuts from the chain brake, grab the tip of the bar between your thumb and finger, lift until there is no slack left hanging, then tighten the 2 nuts back up while your still holding the nose tip upward. Im sure that most of your subscribers already know this tip. 4th generation logger myself, but always looking for tips and tricks to improve. Thanks for your videos.
very useful video, Ive ran a saw for 10 years and I learned a lot of things I never thought of
Thanks! I am new to using a chainsaw and your, "get to the point', well explained and informative video helped me sharpen my chain for the first time, fast and with perfect effect. I am grateful.
OK 1st and foremost, this guy knows his stuff. His tips and suggestions are on mark.
2nd, you don't need to mark any teeth in an effort to show where you started filing your chain. If you feel you need to do this, you probably should be using a file guide. Just look for the shiny metal underneath the cutterhead when the chain comes back around. It should look a lot different than a dull tooth, and trust me, you'll be waiting for it and will probably discover it 4 or 5 teeth before it gets to you.
Only other thing to remember: your chain has to ride on what is basically a railroad track (the bar rails). If one is higher than the other then the chain will lean to the lower side. A leaning chain can cause you to cut curves. No fun and not productive, no matter how sharp your chain is. That means you have to file down the high side to the same height as the low one. Careful doing this because there will inherently be metal slivers which will become metal splinters. Just be aware of it and you'll know what to do. Google it, as I'm sure there are some videos.
the rakers regulate the depth of the cut. if they are to tall the chain will skip and produce a dusty chip with little cutting progress, if they are to short the teeth will cut to deep and will bog the saw down creating a jerking like effect while cutting. crooked cuts and rough cuts are from improperly sharpened cutting teeth. Making sure each tooth is the same size and angle will produce smooth clean cuts. a properly sharpened chain will reduce wear are tear on the power head, use less fuel, cut faster, in crease chain life and reduce the chances of kickback. Wranglerstar love your videos. thanks for taking your time in your work and sharing with others
After all of the time I have spent watching video on how to sharpen a chainsaw, this is by far the best I have seen! Sharpening a chain is not rocket science, it is just common sense. Very well explained. Thank you!
Excellent video. Gets right to the point on everything...
Wranglerstar, your a good guy for sharing your knowledge, I've picked up some good tips from you. You mentioned about the rakers cleaning out the wood from the cut. I was told the rakers are what determine the depth the tooth cuts, as in if they are too high you will not be able to cut with speed and you will notice the saw dust is finer and the saw motor will rev higher too. An old wise guy told me also that how you absolutely know when they need to be filed is they will be shiny, thus showing they are meeting the wood before the tooth does, hence filing is needed.
I agree with the carvinrigged comments....I also have watched a lot of sharpening
videos on UA-cam and your video is, by far, the best ! Very informative.video.
God Bless. FD
Best video on this subject by far. Well done.
This is a fantastic instructional video. Thanks!
Another tip for you, I use a sharpie marker on the first tooth and raker I did. that way I can keep up with where I started.
Tony Hyden
I love you.
Or u can colour them all and leave 1 👍
Love the quote at the start! Thanks for a great video and clear explanation.
Thanks a bunch. The video was clear, precise, and very helpful. You made cutting with a chainsaw fun again. Thank you.
Wranglerstar dont tighten the chain when it get hot u will make the chain snap because when it heats it expands and when it cools it shrinks back so when u tighten the chain when its hot it will get even tighter when it cools off so plz take this to heart
that was the best video I have seen yet on chainsaw shapening and care. Thank you so much for taking the time to post it. :)
Excellent video. Thanks for showing the raker guide.
Thanks for the instruction! Your initial comments of scripture and youtube was felt wholeheartedly
I just bought the kit and now I learned how to use and I hope no one will ask to borrow both
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. One tip I can add about the bar oil is, with a freshly cut log facing the cut, hold the tip of the chain about 2 inches away and rev the saw up for a few seconds. You should see bar oil spitting onto the log. Now this is only useful for the saws with automatic oilers. This way you know if the oiler is working or maybe plugged, or what ever.
Great video!! I have been searching for a video like this for a very long time. Thank you so very much.
We've talked a few times Wranglerstar...
It's that time of year once more and I'm taking a few more dead standing hardwoods for the winter fires up here in the Northeast! I have an MS 311 which is a bit too much for my girly back because... well... I'm a girl... but I wanted to mention.. just to make it EVEN easier a Stihl chain also has one link that is painted a different color (gads I'm in the kitchen and my saw is not here at the moment but I want to say the one link in the chain is painted green (though it would make more sense if it were orange but I seem to remember that its green) So if all the nice people here learning how to manage sharpening properly find that one link, you can start there and then not make the mistake of sharpening every tooth and then a few more by accident, because consistency is the key in this! I take 3 even swipes with the file and guide. I don't get rid of those "training wheels" and you're right the guide is exactly that, but it takes away some of the human error (and yes we all have that.. admit it folks!) And I would say remember that your Stihl should be throwing chunks. If it isn't you shouldn't be cutting for the mere reason that if you're getting all that super fine saw dust from your saw, its likely getting in your eyes and you should never be sawing if you can't see properly! Chain saws are OBSCENELY DANGEROUS! It is the most important thing you should remember at every moment! So you should instead have small chips of wood ( eh... somewhere between 1/2 a centimeter to a centimeter )
This is an excellent video Wranglerstar! No one will walk away from it with questions and if they do this is a great and friendly place to ask those questions because no one is born knowing how to sharpen a chainsaw... its a learned skill. You'll find too that your skill will increase as you perform the sharpening and your saw will cut better after having sharpened it 5 or 6 times, once you've become more comfortable with the task.
That's mostly what I wanted to say but its funny story time as well!
My husband and I were out cutting about a week ago. We never cut without the other being there because using a chainsaw is obscenely dangerous! We take turns generally. I take 5 cuts or so then he takes 10 and we give the saw a break, allow it to cool a bit and move some of the wood. So here we were cutting and doing a fine job but he had to go put some shoes on a horse. While he went and did that I brought my saw to the kitchen, I took out my Q-tips (yeah I don't have compressed air btw for me its Q-tips and very gentle cleaning of the bar oil channels with a straightened paper clip ...VERY GENTLE!!! You don't want to scratch the metal on the inside, it will simply become a better place for the saw dust to collect!) This is btw, how a girl cleans a chainsaw... with Q-tips and my husband has no issues with it because I actually get it clean! I save all the bits of oil soaked saw dust and the used Q-tips ... great fire starters in an outdoor fire pit! So I took it apart I cleaned it, I sharpened it to perfection, turned the bar over.... the whole thing. He gets home and I'm called away! We finally get back together and we still have a couple of hours of light. He starts sawing and here I am watching the saw throw nearly mulch sized chunks (okay yes I'm exaggerating but they were the biggest I've ever seen and even bigger than a brand new blade gives us) So he finally shuts it off and here I am ... typical woman... fishing for a compliment... I say to him "Hey its throwing nice chunks huh?" He answers "Yeah I just sharpened it!" I WAS SO DISAPPOINTED! lololol
I still haven't told him that I sharpened it as well. You may think that's odd to not tell him but every time you sharpen any tool you are taking a bit more of the metal away. My husband is a farrier and his hoof knife that he uses to mostly pare down the sole of the horse's foot also loses metal every time he sharpens it which is before each horse. Your chainsaw blade goes through just as much hard work. Really and truly by double sharpening it that day, we had taken away the ability for that chain to be sharpened one time and it was purely by accident (and poor communication but wanting to please our mate too so I suppose that has some value) Well at least it also got a very thorough cleaning that day as well!!!
Cheers to you and your family Wranglerstar!!! Say hi to the Mrs. for me from the other side of the states! Be safe. Be careful!!!
Fenikkusuuk:
Dear Mrs Fenikkusuuk,
It's been a while since you wrote your piece here, but just in case you ever check back here, I wanted to reply.
So, greetings from the north end of the Sierras! (Northeastern California mountains.)
First, I was a widower for 17 years. But the Lord recently gave me a good Christian wife. (SO nice to have that companionship & fellowship again!) And New Wife is a budding woodswoman too. So I shared your complete story with her. She was nodding, with a big smile. At the end she affirmed that a paper clip and Qtip were good choices, and just what she would have used.
Regarding the chain, the green link indicates that it is a safety chain. Look at some other chains if you get a chance. They may have a yellow link. Or no colored link. You will see that your safety chain has some extra bumps on the links between the cutting teeth. Without my going into detail, it's something the factory did to reduces chances of certain mishaps with a running saw.
Anyway, you are a good writer and we enjoyed your submitting those things.
So good to hear something like this from a expert. Brilliant, thanks !!
thank you so much, i watched all 3 of your shainsaw video, you teach well, this will help me with my saw,great amount of info,
Excellent video mate!! Thanks a lot of taking the time to make it :)
What a wealth of valuable information here. Some of this has taken me months to figure out and I learned a lot here.
well you lived up to your early promise to deliver a helpful video... that was great, and extremely well presented. Thanks a million.
Mostly good imformation- clear & easy - I called rakers that for years- in truth the modern term "depth gauge" is better as they only really set the depth of cut by the follwing tooth -the tooth takes the chips it cuts with it- not the raker/depth gauge- I would teach to file these 1st if needed as it's very easy to slip with the flat file & ruin the edge of a cutting tooth, whereas there is no chance of touching a raker/ depth gauge while sharpening the tooth. that aside - good video mate.
The only addition I use is: I remove the bar and lightly grind the bar to square it up. (the rails) This ensures that the chain tracks squarely. Please note: I have a grinder that is parallel to the belt and wheel. Most homeowners dont have this ability. I have done this with a file, but it takes time and knowing how to do it. Guess being in the machine business has it's advantages. Glad to see someone else has a fork truck in their shop too!!
Excellent instructional video. Explanations were clear and objective. Great pace. Nice job overall.
Thanks for this video! I thought I knew a lot about chainsaw maintenance but I was mistaken. I appreciate the help.
The guide tool that you showed that clamps on to the bar is very useful when sharpening chain saws. You said it was slow but it takes less than a minute to clamp onto the bar and set it up and you can file the chain faster once it is set up.
keep repping the good book that's the only guarantees in this. Looking forward to meeting you on the streets of gold one day. God Bless
GREAT information. You revealed a lot of information I wasn't aware of and it really helped. Thanks so much!
Thank you for this video. I am certainly getting the kit you recommended and keep my chains sharpened. Very well explained.
i agree with your opening statement, what a new age of doing things.
Thank you for sharing all this information and helping to keep people safe. I watch some of your videos again each time I get ready to pickup my chainsaw. As a reminder of maintenance safety. So far no errors and no injuries, thanks again and God Bless.
Thanks very much for the great video. I've always been somewhat sharpening challenged until having watched this. You put things into simple to follow instructions which have allowed me to put an incredible edge onto my chains.
I learned a few things I didn't know. I have a ms210c and a 660 magnum. Great video!
Thank Bernfya for posting his comments about the file guide being necessary. It doesn't just give angle guidance for the cutting angle, it does as he points out also help with the creation of the gullet- which peels away the 'kerf',chip or whatever you want to call it (look end on at the file in situ and you'll notice that a small portion is held above the bed of the guide and so doesn't come in contact with the tooth-so you don't need to "file in a slightly upward direction")
Wish all UA-cam advice vids were this good. Thanks eh.
Great video. The best on sharpening chainsaws I've seen here.
Excellent video, it really helped clear up some questions I had for a while now. Thank you for posting this.
thanks a lot! just had a small chainsaw as a gift and i had no idea how to sharpen it, very usefull video!
Sorry for digging up an old video. Weather is terrible in N.MN right now. I have to disagree on the Granberg-style file guide. 40 years ago, when I hadn't any experience with maintaining saw chain, I used one about 2-3 times during the life of each chain to restore chain angles uniformly. Also good if chain hits rock or metal. Over time, I learned to file more accurately and use the jig rarely, but still have one or two in my workshop.
Agree wholeheartedly on buying quality files.
now we want a video on sharpening square ground chisel chain!
excellent instruction i have never learned any of this before
The best sharpening viedo i have seen yet very well done
That was really informative. I've only used the table mounted electric sharpener but never tried by hand. Didn't know that about the takers either, thanks again.
Great vid. Exactly how I sharpeen mine! Also any sprocket bar will have the grease holes. Even my 14" poulan and my 8" polesaw bars. Theyb put those holes there for a reason so make sure to grease them
loved the end... never let anyone borrow ur chain saw. I had somone think they were doing me a favour and they resharpened it badly, more on one side than the other and it cut like a damn banana! I fiddled with it but just ended up buying a new chain.
First of all... I have used the "don't loan out your wife or chainsaw" line many times.
Second, I have sharpened my Stihl chainsaws for years, but have never been completely satisfied with my results. This should help...
When do you know it's too far gone? Is there a rule of thumb about how much of the blade is left before you chunk it?
Thanks,
alan
When I’m board at midnight I watch the old wrangler star videos love it
Amen, my wife is mine and my saw is my bread and butter.Very good common since advice.I hope that just one do it yourselfer learned something.A chain saw can be dangerous but a dull saw is worse.Thanx for all your advice.Go with god!
Not bad, two things i'd also recommend. One is marking the first tooth with a marker so one knows where they started and engaging the chain brake whilst sharpening. In my opinion that chain was too loose, with the chain that loose your going to be stopping fairly often to retension it. Give it another bit of tension. I find an extra stroke or two on ones weak side (left for me) balances the teeth and keeps her cutting straight. Grease your drive sprocket when your greasing the bar sprocket.
Finally, my chainsaw will cut ! Thank you for making this.
Great video as usual ! I try to file the rakers (depth gauges) first then sharpen cutters just in case your flat file glances off a cutter occasionally. Just an idea. Otherwise your batting a thousand !! Keep up the good work !
What a wonderful and informative video. Thank you for posting and taking your time to post this.
10 out of 10,Great Stuff. Thankyou
Exellent ! exactly what i needed to know of which i used to know but forgot ?
Got one of those multi piece kits and wasn't sure what some of it was for. Your video cleared that up and also showed me that for the past 20 years I have not been doing it exactly right. No wonder my chains dull so fast after I am done with them.
Chainsaw sharpening is fun, i had to do it for a year, we lived on a cabin in the blue ridge mountains on out vacation property. i became quit good at it.
Great video on chainsaw sharpening had just bought a file kit with limited instructions watched your video and I have all the info I need thanks
Gareth
Good vid, good info. Never would have known about the raker guide. Thanks.
your comment about cleaning the lubrication ports, i had always done this but felt it was an unneccasary precaution, just cuz im new to the chainsaw world. but hearing it from an older more experienced chainsaw user i feel like i knew thing about saws that i didnt know i knew, lol.
Extremely good advice, especially that last statement. I do not even let people borrow my saw i use at work and its not even mine lol