How to BREAK IN a new Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, etc 2 cycle? PLUS Insider secrets about your new unit!
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- Опубліковано 29 кві 2022
- Thanks for tuning back into Chickanic! Today we go over the HOT TOPIC of "Breaking In" a new 2 cycle unit. PLUS I have an insider SECRET you're going to want to know!
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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I've been cutting timber for 42 years. I currently have an 046 Stihl that I've been running for 27 years. Not constantly, because I have 30 saws. But that saw literally has thousands of hours on it. I have a lot of high time saws. If you take care of em, they will last a long time. Keep em clean and sharp. Air filter, clutch cover, bar groove and oiler holes. Clean. Run good mix and always shake your gas before you refuel. Don't run yer chain to tight. It gets hot. Heat bad. Learn how to tension the chain properly . Don't rap up a cold saw. Let it warm up for a minute. Give those innards a chance to expand a bit. It takes more than 30 seconds. Blow it out with compressed air occasionally. There are a million ways to abuse a saw, but if you just do these things, you'll be ahead of the game.
Chainsaws and other 2-stroke equipment are made to run wide open throttle under load.
@@mikespain8655 Yes they are, but not cold.
Chattering the engine at part-load quickly wears pistons and cylinders. The poor running at Idling (tickover) speed is an example of how they stutter and choke up. The cylinder warms best under load but take it gently as the piston always warms faster than the bore. Reduced internal clearance increases piston and bore wear. Once warmed-up, give it the beans.
@@davidelliott5843 I let my saws idle for about a minute, then shut off and fuel, then run. It gives the internals a chance to heat soak and expand. Then, wide open. Have had good success with this.
When I worked at H-D when we set up the motorcycle we had to also adjust the throttle cable to the carburetor to get a true full throttle! Factory set them at about 3/4 throttle!
Most old school chainsaw users who had to make their equipment last told me the six most important things to chainsaw longevity are: 1. Proper high quality gas and oil mix; 2. Learn to set your carburetor so you don't lean out the saw; 3. Keep your air filter clean; 4. Let the engine warm up for no less than 30 seconds or more than a minute during the first use for the day; 5. After making a heavy cut/full load let the engine cool down for 30 seconds before hitting the kill switch; and finally 6. Keep your chain sharp at all times. Follow these guidelines and you will extend the longevity f your saw!
Great advice
Sounds right
35-year arborist here. #1 cheap oil mix is fine if mixed to the proper ratio. #4 is not necessary if the temp is above freezing. Never heard of #5, see no use for it. My cylinders last 20+ years.
Yep
One other thing I never hear on UA-cam about 2 cycle engines. Never let them run out of gas. When you run out of gas, you’ve run out of lubricating oil. At 50 to 1 it won’t take long to burn up the engine. One of the experts on here blame trufuel premix burning up an engine. When this expert ran a leaf blower wide open to let it run out of fuel it would hardly run afterwards.
been watching small engine channels for years and most don't measure up to this lady , so full of knowledge and little tricks to help the home owner 👍
I am glad you mentioned making sure the oiler is feeding and has fed the bar BEFORE use. I was taught to PRE-OIL the bar groove with a pump oil can when installing a new bar and/or chain and after every bar cleaning/rotation.
That make a wd-40 just to pre lube and blow out debree in the bar.
Awesome tip. Makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
I would check the bar oil ,run the saw and look for the trail of oil and recheck chain tension before giving it to the crew.
I just bought a ms 201. Dealer installed chain a little tight knowing it will loosen quickly during first use. I ran it but no oil was getting to the bar. It’s my first new saw and assumed the sound and feel of chain was because it was brand new…nah, chain was too tight and running dry. ..the oil intake/filter was sitting just under reservoir cap. I pushed it in further to reservoir. …I actually considered pre lubing bar/chain but didn’t. am a stickler for maintenance and initial procedure so this really ticked me off.
@@andyburch1819 Your dealer was wrong. New chain should be set to normal taughtness, run a bit out of the wood as you test the oiler and running of the saw motor and chain/bar. Then, if needed, re-adjusted before starting to make cuts. Keep watch of chain tension and if it gets too much slack while cuttiing, then snug it a bit, but leave a little slack in a warn chain. After the fist tank of fuel, the chain has usually settled in and may not need adjustments until sharpening time. Remember, cool chian set per owner's maual, warm chain leave a little slack.
as a small engine tech of over 21 years, you are correct with technology and every unit being test run for emissions at the plant. the only time you would have to worry about a saw break in would be a complete rebuild or piston/cylinder replacement
As a small engine "mechanic" not tech. I disagree. Treat your engine like a gun. Never trust someone you don't know to break in your engine.
I have taken apart many factory 2C engines and the ring wern't seated.
Don't trust this dopy bent.
@@timesthree5757 🤣...ok...
@@karlb1154 so you agree with me?
When I was in diesel school, our instructor told us the single
most important thing any engine needs to do during its
breakin period is to simply warmup to operating temp,
Then, cool down. Several of these cycles will assist the rings
in seating.
!
Come up to temp... then 100% load 15 minutes. Idle for 15 minutes and send it down the road.
Naturally aspirated with a throttle plate. I run sweeps to full load and full coast. Want the cylinders operating under maximum pressure and vacuum.
I mainly work on GM 2 stroke diesels, an old timer taught me as soon as it has oil pressure run it wide open under full load for an hour! I used to disagree with this but after running them in like this they didn’t burn much oil for almost ten thousand hours!
@@Trump985 How Do You Achieve Full Load Without a Dyno ?
@@chrischiampo7647 Depends on the application. In a boat push the pier, in a genset put an electrical load of the rated output of the unit on it, in a truck run it flat on the interstate in high gear, ect ect ect.
@@Trump985 flat on the interstate in high gear? A) that isn't full load (even with a full load), B) hope there's no traffic, C) what truck can run flat out without incurring some police interest over an hour period?
I always warm my two cycles before I put a load on. You can cold seize the engine. The piston heats faster than the cylinder, so it can expand quicker and seize in the bore. On most saws this is characterized by the piston being gaulded in a thin line on the right side of the exhaust port as you're standing behind the saw. On a normal day that is thirty to forty five seconds. On an extremely cold day, a little longer.
The piston is also sized to be loose when cold so it is sized correctly when up to running temp. Running it hard before warm up can cause the cylinder to wear unevenly and become ovel shaped.
So basically what she said on video is a load of crap?
I just bought my first chainsaw two days ago, a Stihl MS261CM. I haven't even put gas in it yet. I've been binging on all your videos and learning so much about what to do, what NOT to do, and what to look out for. Thanks a million for making these videos!
Love your videos. I'm a 76 yr. old retired auto tech and I find your vids entertaining as well as informative! Keep 'em coming!
Bought a Stihl km56 back in 2014. Ran it with cheap mineral 2 stroke oil for the first few tanks. Have been running it with good synthetic oil since then. I use it with the trimmer, edger and blower attachments. Easy to start and still runs like a beast.
Wow! I was always so OCD about "break in" on small engines but after that I ran them hard. Which goes against how I build motorcycles. Cuz my philosophy was breaking in like you're going to ride them! Thank you for the awesome video!! 👍🏻👍🏻
I love your Channel and the straight forward information you give us. I just added an Echo CS400 to my farm saw fleet and I have to say that for a smaller saw it performs far beyond my expectations. I wanted a saw that was lighter and more nimble than my Echo CS590 and Husky 372 high back for lighter work and quickly found that it has no trouble getting into some of the heavier work that I’d usually task to one of my larger saws. I did run a few tanks of fuel through it already and it does seem to pull harder the more I run it. I did make a minor adjustment to the carb tuning the other day and all I can say is WOW! It’s right in the sweet spot now! I’m very impressed with this “little” saw. Having cut professionally in northern Michigan and running many brands of “pro” saws I have to say that Echo does not disappoint. My CS590 made me a believer in Echo and I have the impression that this CS400 will as well.
I live in Western Colorado at 5500 ft above sea level. I would imagine the carburetors are set closer to sea level.
My newest limbing Shihl saw ran like crap new. It would barely cut a 3” limb. I did the muffler mod. Drilled the 1/4 opening in the muffler to 1/2 “. Removed the plastic limit caps, on the carburetor & adjusted it for the increased air flow of the exhaust.
It”ll cut an 8” limb now easily.
That saw is a wicked beast now !
Yes, altitude will make a big difference.
I love all these tips, a little reminder on them is super helpful.
Great explanation👍 anytime I get a new piece of 2 cycle equipment I pull the plug and sometimes the muffler, just to have a look before the first time I start it. And yes, everything stihl, echo and husqvarna I've seen has been test run before packaging/shipping. Personally, I like to run 40-45:1 with mineral or semi synthetic and tune a little rich for the first tank or two while avoiding high rpm without a load. After that, I re-tune if needed and use e'm like I stole e'm! Haven't had any known problems yet in 18+ years! Also make sure a saw is oiling before the first cut every day, not just when it's new!
Great vid. I am “that homeowner”; I am about 8 tanks-full into a 4 yr old ECHO CS-400. It continues to serve me well in the Deep South, with proper use of the choke on Cold starts.
The engine: I baby it;
The bar & chain: I am over-the-top rough on them.
Thanks for the confirmations that I heard throughout the video.
Bought my first new saw last February, an echo 620( also my first echo saw). I was gentle with it for the first 3 tanks of fuel, running it very rich to keep from over reving. At 3 tanks I felt it start to gain power so I leaned to where I would normally tune. At 7 tanks it really woke up,. Now it is one of my favorite saws. This is my only experience breaking in a new saw as I've always bought old used saws.
So hard for an Old Dog to learn new tricks. Bought my first new chain saw back in 1976 when it was recommended that a multi step break in procedure be followed. Although I am not contradicting what you are saying, old habits are hard to break. Right or wrong, I still follow this break in procedure with any new or rebuilt two cycle engine, without any guilt feelings. By the way, this old Stihl 041AV which I bought new in 1976, still runs quite well, but because of its’ weight and these 74 year old arms and shoulders not having the strength they once had, it's use is quite limited. I also made the switch from Stihl to Shindaiwa/Echo in 2003 and have never looked back.
The 041 were a BEAST on the woods AND on the shoulders. LOL! And yes, even with the information I get from training school, I still feel a little "unsettled" every time I service a customers new unit and immediately run it at full throttle. LOL!
My first saw was an 041AV and i logged with it for several years. It was a great pine saw!
Thank you ! I have learned a lot watching your videos. I have a 8 year old Toro mower that with proper maintenance, still starts “First Pull” every time !
Hey Ken, could you please tell me the model Toro lawnmower you have. I just bought a brand new Toro lawnmower ( personal pace recycler ) and after 2.5 hours of use it has all manner of issues. The worst is it throws much lawn trimmings on top of the motor and completely blocks the cooling vents. Most annoying. Will overheat the motor if allowed to run that way. The air filter was clogged up with clippings and the air filter did not come with the foam outer filter as shown in the owners manual. My old mower ( 23 years old ) is now back in service an it started on the first pull after sitting in the shed for 6 months. Waiting for replacement air filter and foam outer wear. Thanks
Thank you young lady for ALL the insight
When I worked at H-D when we set up the motorcycle we had to also adjust the throttle cable to the carburetor to get a true full throttle! Factory set them at about 3/4 throttle!
Another great video as usual I love how you keep us informed!!!
I can tell you have experience in your line of work. But breaking in pretty much any 2 stroke is important to how long the engine is going to last with it still making peck power. Now just let me say that my family has been in the power sports business since the 60's and for 3 generations at our current location I have been rebuilding engines for over 35 years and if you take 2 of the same motocross bikes and run the first tank of gas in them and take one and run it in a race and the other one go out and run the first tank of gas by taking it easy and stay away from being a one throttle position for a long time and then go race it race both bikes the same amount of time only difference other than breaking in the one bike correctly after a season of racing you do a leak down test( not a compression test ) you will find that the bike that was not broken in will have more blow by on the rings and then on the Dyno you will see that it is also a little bit lower on power and doesn't get to the power band as soon as the bike that had been broken in properly then tear the engine down and you will find that the bike that was not broken in correctly has more ring end gap (has more wear) and a lot of the time even see some carbon on the skirt of the piston just below the rings from blow-by you will also find more side to side play on the crank main bearings also the cross hatching on the cylinder wall's will be harder to see from wear now this is just one of the R&D test that we have done over the years and we have proven time and time again on all types of engines that to correctly break in a engine you will have an engine that will last longer and make better power in the long run now people ask well what about the guy they see rebuild the engine and go right out and race it they don't seem to have any problems.well in most racing engines when we build them we run a little bit more ring end gap a little bit more piston to cylinder wall clearance because the engine is going to be rebuilt many times and they aren't looking for longevity just peck power I've had many customers over the years that buy 2 new snowmobiles and the guy goes right out and starts running it hard but the wife just doesn't ride as hard and down the road the guys sled is slower than his wife's sled is and they bring them into my shop and I'll check them out and do a leak down test and his engine will have like 18-20 percent of blow by and then I'll do the same test on his wife's engine and only have 8-10 percent of blow by with the mileage about the same on both sled's with in 30-50 miles of each other now I'm talking about a real situation and I'll explain to them about break in and the next season they bought 2 new sled's again they get new sled's when they get over 5 to 6 thousand miles on them. Time the customer followed my advice and for 15 gallons of fuel he did what I told him to do so they bring their sled's in every year for a preseason and the last time he wanted me to do a leak down test on both sled's just to see how things check out well he was shocked that both sled's had almost the exact same outcome both engines less than 10 percent of blow by and he was so happy for me taking the time to explain what he has been doing wrong for years now this is just a few true stories from my life time of being a mechanic and rebuilding thousands of engines and building complete custom engines actually machining pistons out of a piece of billet aluminum but I can guarantee you an engine that has been broken in correctly will always last longer and make better power thousands of miles down the road now please understand that I'm not trying to disrespect you in any way I think it's good to see a lady working on engines and lawn equipment I just wanted to share some information with you that has been done with the difference between breaking in a engine and not breaking a engine so what I'm saying is that for longer engine life and better performance years down the road breaking it in correctly makes a huge difference I have a hole list of how I recommend to break a engine in different engine sometimes have a little different way of breaking it in 4 strokes have a lot more moving parts in side of the engine and is very important to break it in correctly for longer engine life anyways keep up the good work and have a great day
..... Bob.....
Maybe in the 60s Gramps but not any more. Baby your engine during break in and kill it way earlier. You must break in hard after a brief warm up in order to seat the rings proper while the honing scores are still sharp and peaked. Think about it.
@@cravenmoorehead5636
Bullshit.
Great information. I have the same mindset for modern equipment
Thanks
Thanks for the vid, useful info. A friend was having problems restarting his new Stihl ,MS251, which I wondered was down to the rings not bedding in yet. So I was probably wrong although I doubt he had taken it back to the dealer for a carb tune….
Thanks for making this simple. I was very confused by the manual.
Hello ! As you say, I found out that my Jonsered CS 2245 S II chainsaw needed some fine tuning after a few days use ... It is now about 2 years ago ... and the power on full throttle was just a little too lean . After a little discussion I got the splined adjustmenttool from my dealer and got the correct settings for my saw, and I'm very happy with my Jonsered. Now I have the same issue with my new STIGA SBC 656DX brushcutter, which accelerates way too slow. Both low needle and idle needs some fine tuning, but on this the skrews are D shaped ! Wich I don't have yet... ordered a adjustment tool set as you told about and can't wait to get the set, to optimize my small engines ! THX for all your good tips !!!
That explains the issue I had with a new Walbro carb. Thanks for verifying I’m not nuts!
I like your definition of break-in time. Makes better sense to me then the manual.
YES your right the DEALER doesn't mention the Carburetor adjustment after brake in .
Interesting info as usual. I have always heard that you can cold seize an engine if it's not warmed up.
You are full of good wisdom thanks for sharing
Always great down to earth advice. What a great channel!
Great info, I learned something today. Thanks!
I had a Stihl hedge trimmer that the throttle would stick when it was brand new. I put a little valve lapping compound in the carburetor and worked it. Flushed it out. Restarted it and had no problem since. I did modify the fuel filter in tank with a fiber tailed filter. Keeps the engine running if you turn it uphill or on its side as you're trimming. I've had to tighten the bar nuts and sharpen it where it caught on a trojan fence. I've replaced the seals in the carburetor and lines. It still runs today.
I just stumbled upon your channel, and absolutely love the content! Automotive mechanic here for 25+ years. Thoroughly enjoy your videos...I've been bin watching...lolol. Thanks so much!
Its important to warm up a any engine for a short time before you full throttle it. Let that cold engine idle for about 30 secs to let the piston warm up and swell a little. Then, have fun with it!
Any engine? Even rocket engines? Turbine engines?
true that, but with my string trimmer i run that thing at 12k rpm cold to start it up lol
Highley educational my dear lady. Thanks
Good morning Bre: Excellent video. Thank you for all you do. Everyone please enjoy your weekend, TMP from N.J.
Thanks for your words of wisdom.
Great video. I always learn something watching your videos.
Your videos are always full of good information and very entertaining. I used that information to get my 40 year old Poulan and Homelite chain saws running. How about a video about how to lay up the chain saw or any two cycle engine for the winter so we don't have to replace fuel lines and rebuild carbs. Keep the videos coming, GREAT JOB.
@CalifMongo I agree with everything you said about her channel and videos. 👍
Great video, thanks for the info.
Hi ! Great 🤘 information . I worked at a Stihl shop, the ms290 saws overrev and score pistons !
You always have great information you share...Thank you!!!
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Very informative. Heaps of great info. Thanks Chicky.
I bought a brand new Stihl MS 180 from my local Stihl dealer a month or so, ago. I did not get them to crank it up before I got it. I took it home and filled it with my two cycle gas and bar oil. I added an extra cap of two cycle oil to the 180’s gas tank. This is my standard break in procedure. I tried to crank it up - forget that. I must have pulled it over 100 times and still could not get it going. I let it set for a while and finally got it going. I let it sit and idle for about 15 minutes, goosing it up several times. I then let it sit overnight before I tried to crank it, again. The first run allowed the rings to seat enough for me to crank it the next morning. I have not had a problem cranking it, since. That first run is important to get the rings partially seated. I always add an extra capful of oil to the gas tank for the first two tanks.
Thank you for the info lady. I enjoy tinkering on all small engines. You are so to the point and I like that. Keep up the good work mam.
Yes! Yes! Yes on good advice for even us old salts. Learned something new too! Thank you!
Sorry but only text will be here only
Thank you for valuable information!!
That was very informative. Thanks.
Great videos thank you for all the information. My wife replaced carburetor on our Husqvarna weed-eater watching one of your videos..
Thanks! I must really be a nerd. Read the whole owners manual and with experience running 2 stroke,snowmobiles, motorcycles and chainsaws for a while now it made sense to run a couple tanks through and make needed adjustments like Echo recommends. About that muffler mod thing.....
Thanks for the valuable info! I don’t own a chainsaw, yet, but at least I know what to expect if I buy one. I do use Echo trimmers, GT-225 and GT-225L. 👍👍.
My Husqvarna 128LD said something in the manual about having the carb adjusted after the break in period. I bought mine in 2009.
My thing has been to avoid full synthetic oil for the first few tankfuls of fuel just to make sure the piston rings seat in well. It may be an old school train of thought, but I still do it. It certainly won't bother anything to use non synthetic oil for a little bit before making the switch.
As far as warming up, I allow my small 2 cycle engines to idle for around a minute or so before pouring the coals to it. Snowmobile engines get a lot more warm up time to avoid cold seizure. Especially liquid cooled ones.
With a 20 year old MS290, I watch the chain tension, check the bar oil throw, use hi-test gas at 47-48 to 1, and give the saw a shake before using to ensure the gas oil mix. That and cleaning the air filter and the dust and chips off the saw body, engine fins, clutch area, and bar when done for the day. Another tip I was told is to not completely fill the gas tank but fully fill the bar oil tank, Better to run out of gas than bar oil.
Thanks for the video. I was a little worried about using my new 661 Stihl on an Alaskan saw mill without "breaking it in". But it has been used for 5 years now with no problems and it is mainly used on the mill or cutting big wood. For all other cutting I use the Stihl 261 with a 20 inch bar.
Any difference with ripping with a chainsaw and the normal crosscutting?
@@camgere Ripping usually involves much longer cutting times. Imagine if you will the size of the cut 35 inches wide by 20 feet long or more. Wide open for 15 minutes non stop. 1 tank of fuel per cut. Normal cross cutting should do several cuts per tank of fuel. I always let my saw cool down ( by low rpm running then idling for 20 - 30 seconds) after making ripping cuts. I don't do that after cross cutting. If you read through all this fluff the answer is yes big difference.
@@ronkuzyk3836 Wide open for 15 minutes at a time is pretty amazing. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Great advice. Newer auto tune type
Saws may never need a carb adjustment as they self regulate gas oil mix. Fresh fuel is probably the
Single most important factor for
A great running tool yet it is seldom
Mentioned.
Love the info on this video... 1st time Echo CS 590 off the shelf purchaser, have a poulan pro that has been an absolute beast for a weekend warrior saw....was so glad to hear you say run it after normal warmup like normal usage...i was worried about running it hard 1st time out has about 10 hickory and oak trees to drop and that's a lot for any saw don't want to damage it on its virgin outing. Glad to have found your channel will be catching up on hacks, tricks and tunes going forward.
Thanks, just what I needed to know as I get my new Echo 620 P tomorrow. Thanks again.
Thanks for this. I was contemplating looking this up for my new cs-500.
I love all of you advice thanks 👍
I got a husky two4440, and it would not run under load at 4 PM. Had to adjust the carb, running better now but I’m still not quite dialed in. Didn’t know about for throttle no load, won’t do that anymore.Thanks for the awesome info!
Love hearing all the tips a tricks you share I just write them down if I don't know it already
Great advice. Thank you
Great video thanks for the help.
Convenient, I just got home from the stihl dealer. Just got a fs91r
Good information to know thanks for the heads up.
I guess that my carb adjustment warranty is up. My Echo 510evl is 33 years old this year and believe it or not the carb has never been adjusted. Proper mix and care of your equipment can last a long time. Thanks for the videos and advice on small engines.
Thanks for confirming what I thought all along
Thanks for the learned knowledge. Confirming long held suspicion - Once ring(s) seat, perhaps there is less blowby of fuel causing a richer condition. I learned and had fun, new sub.
Great content valuable information blessings from Puerto Rico.
Thanks for the advice about breaking in a new chain. Never heard of that before.
Thanks for the info
Hey Bre,
Great info and thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this video!
My little Maruyama is similar to that Echo but the Maruyama has a really cool chain tensioner system.
That adjustment to carb is to set it to suit the fuel you use in your location as every region is different also the oil you mix. All my 45 saws from 1956 to 2012 are on 98 octane using Amsoil at 100 -1 mix. When i have a ton Castrol fuel mix it's a different carb setting.
Good video. My husky manual says to run the trimmer for a min of 4 min before adjusting the carb
Excellent resource - YOU! - Thank YOU!
Thank you I was told to run trimmer at full rpms before shutting off
Another "I learned something new" video. Big Thank You! When I buy a new four-cycle lawn tool, I run it with a full gas tank, varying the throttle in up and down steps. When it runs out of gas, I change the oil. I've heard that doing this will remove any metal shavings that arise from the break-in process. What's your opinion?
Another very useful vid. Thanks !
Very interesting video!! Thanks for sharing this!!
Thanks for the valuable tips
That carburetor information was an interesting tip. Great video as always 👍.
Thanks again Mike!
More Homeowners need to see this video, but when I worked on small engines,I think that maybe 80% of people never even open their operator manuals?!!
Honest stuff - thanks Bre❤
Good advice. Thanks
Great advice on new machine break in. However, the only new chainsaw I ever had was a Poulan 2300AV, my first saw, 40 years ago. How about a video on a topic you mentioned briefly: break in of newly rebuilt saws.
I believe it takes some tanks for the rings to seat. The carburetor would need to be adjusted with the compression change to run at peak performance.
being as how that is the whole point of "break in" lol , carb break in made me smile lol,
Never had a Echo that needed a carb adjustment perfect right out of the box take care sweetie nice video
I agree with anlot of what you said in this video.
But, i just bought a new ms170 after 25+ years of my Poulan Pro which is still going strong but I’m tired of the oiler.
I believe what you are saying but will follow stihl’s instructions along with the ten minute idle and cool down period. I like the heat treating theory.
For me its better safe than sorry as its my $$$ i have to dole out for the unit.
I really like your videos!!! Thx.
I worked as a Small Engine Mechanic in my Dad's repair shop as a teenager. Lots of Briggs & Stratton stuff. That was 55 years ago. However, I can still fix most things if I don't get frustrated and give up.
I just bought my first chainsaw. Stihl MS250. Dealer told me I can take it in for a carb adjustment within 6 months.
I took it in after first test use as they were supposed to run it before delivery as part of their package. It wouldn't run more than 10 seconds before stalling. They adjusted it.
I tested it in the front of the house with a 4" log on a sawhorse. Chain tension was adjusted after that. I'll check that again this weekend when I put it to work for my firewood permit. At least adjusting tension is easy.
Thanks for the tips. 👍
Great content! I am replacing the short block on a junked Echo PB580T (ran on straight gas, destroyed crank bearings). Since the new short block has not been in a unit that would have been pre-run for EPA checks, would there be any type of "break in" period for this short block?
Very interesting facts you present .Thanks again.
I love what you do ,Thank you
love watching your videos
great information always
What about on replacing a carburetor on older machine would it need to be adjusted like after a break in period for it ?
No, the break in period is for the piston rings