This is one off the best videos I watched on setting them up...he shows u how they work and why..then shows u how to set them up.. I now understand ...
I set up my 10ii with 110 desert lizards, light(middle length)springs under/ medium (short) on top. And the light/ short on top in the rear. I still think I want 20 weight oil instead of 30, but it's also been 50°f.....it dropped the nose of my truck by 1/2 an inch. But the downhill control was truly the biggest surprise. Same everything, with only shocks changed was a huge improvement in performance. Need to build a lower profile front bumper and then I'm set up
Easily one of the best videos explaining how the Desert Lizard shocks work and how to apply the different types of drooping settings that the shocks can provide along with the explanation on how they are going to work.
@@procrawlereu Today I tried out the setup you mentioned in your video and all I can say is WOW I have a totally new truck and my worst crawler is now almost as good as my best one. Outstanding. Thanks again.
I just ordered some Desert Lizards and excited to mess with them some. You have the exact setup that I was thinking of using, makes the most sense for performance I think. I do wonder about not running a return spring in the rear though, just the short soft compression spring. That would delay the back of the truck from having to lift the back axle over an obstacle and in theory give you better breakover performance. So I was thinking soft short springs all around for compression, maybe mediums up front. Soft medium length springs for return up front, no return spring in the rear. Back of the rigs are very light anyways so controlling the lift back there during a steep descent won't have as much effect as it would up front during an ascent. In theory.... Need to test all this stuff. Nice video!
Very awesome video. Just got my lizards and set them up like you did for semi. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I am new to LCG so this helped a ton. Subbed and liked...
Basically yes but not so simple. You have to test out what spring hardness/softness fits your RTR weight in front and rear. So a proper droop suspension setup needs a lot of testing and finetune to max out the performance of your rig.
Just set up my scx10-2 honcho with these but I did wat you did for the rear on all 4 with 35wt oil. I think I will put the longer soft spring in the front though, but I want to run it a little first before I decide.
🖐️🤠 Thank you for sharing 🤝 Absolutely brilliant 👍 observations & conclusions! Our take away is to figure out how to apply to 1/24 scale crawlers. We've seen it applied to 1/32 Orlando's which have similar type shocks, spring inside. So....... Where there's a 'will' there's a way 👍 Subscribed 🤝 Cheers from 🇬🇧
@@1BARBAS They maybe 90mm if I remember well. Feel free to ask the author Mike Chu directly in a comment under the video post on the Flatgekko™ LCG Crawler System Fan Page: facebook.com/groups/flatgekkolove/permalink/452405969209889/
@@1BARBAS Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed.
Thank's for the Information on the YRDL Shock set-up 💯 I was wondering if you could run a semi droop with soft long droop and soft short sprung and you've answered my question... ✌🤠👍 HFLPRCing - Having Fun Laughing Playing and RCing 👍😎👍 AOAH - Association of Addicted Hobbiest 🙏 SSPH - Stay Safe and Play Healthy My Friend
Great video, helped my newbie brain inderstand it so much better. One thing wasn't clear - am I right you said the heavier the vehicle, the lighter the spring and oil weight, or did I misunderstand?
You need a heavier oil / springs for heavier vehicles. The whole idea is to slow down the motion of your rig at their extreme limits. This will allow you to make input adjustments before you flip.
Got a scx10ii and thinking on go to the same direction but with a little butget. What pieces would be cheaper and better to improve? Wheels and spring moods on shocks are planned. Thanks
I set up my lcg with semi droop and it no longer traverses lines i previously did due to belly strikes. How about running semi droop in the front and none or very low in the back to lift the belly abit?
Thanks so much, mate. Actually you want to run on AMS (axle mounted servo) or horizontal CMS (chassis mounted servo) if you want to go so low with the Power Wagon body. In that case the hood can sit on the shock hoops. The Flatgekko C23 V2 shock hoops we consciously lowered to make real flat builds available. Learn more here: procrawler.eu/flatgekko-c23-v2-lcg-crawler-chassis/
Mike's advice regardig the size in a Facebook post: "Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed."
I'm trying to figure my droop set up out on my new build I'm running a rock pirates chassis with 4ws what springs would u recommend also has the pro line power wagon body
Hi mate, the setup seen in the video is a great starting point for you. Finetuning you can realize after some field testing. The proper setup depends on several things like RTR weight, driving style, etc.
You can either use pen springs or Rc4wd sells internal springs with 3 different spring rates lfor their 90mm shocks that will fit SCX10 standard shocks under the piston. However, the SCX10 shocks were not made for internal springs, iYou will lose travel.
Thanks so much, mate. Yep, Emu shocks may be ok as a basis but for high performance later you may want to switch to some shocks like Desert Lizards, Pro-line Big Bores or Pro-Specs, maybe Dravtechs for droop setup.
@@mikechu7959 mainly trailing and some light crawling. If you had two of the same trucks at the same ride height, one had normal (let’s say 70mm) shocks, the other had 50/50 droops that were originally longer shocks (let’s say 90mm). What would the benefits to this be?
I personally don’t like running short shocks. Because, you have lost a bunch of articulation. If you are doing light crawling and trailing. 50-50 would be great or even regular 90mm. If you are trailing. You want ground clearance. Stay with regular shocks. That would be your best bet. Droop or semi droop are for people that want to crawl extreme inclines, downhill or side hills.
Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed.
Are you using just the droop springs in your semi droop setup or are you using the longest normal suspension springs also? I want to replicate your setup as a starting point.
It will depend on how much your rig weighs. 5lb to 8lb rigs. I’m at 50wt rear / 40wt front. You want the rear to move slower, so you can catch your rig, at extreme steep crawl, if it starts to tip. Also, remember for droop to work effectively, your axles needs to be weighted. If the axles are not heavy enough, the body will just pull the axles off the ground. Weigh the front axle down, and just add enough to the rear where your happy with the downhill.
I just seen this and I’ve been trying to get my springs right. My rig is 5.6lbs unsprung weight is 3.8lbs I’m running the medium short spring top and soft medium spring bottom for an 80% droop with 45w oil all around. My suspension still unloads all the way not fast but I’m getting about 6.5” of articulation. Should I run a stiffer bottom spring to limit it to maybe 4.5 to 5” of articulation?
Watch my video closely at the end. Front: 1st into the chamber (short length) soft rate, (long length) soft rate under piston, then shock cap. Rear: 1st into chamber (short length) medium rate spring, (medium length) soft rate under the piston, then shock cap. Don’t forget, when tightening, shocks have to be fully compressed when tightening. Otherwise, there will be air pockets and won’t let your shocks completely compress during operation of your rig.
Okay I think I got it now my rear is setup just like yours but I also have my front the exact same as the rear. I just need to make my front different and I should be good. Thanks for your help.
This is a 4 link front suspension, no issues with the front shocks getting full travel. The internal shocks is holding the body down. Maybe, that’s what you meant by your comment. If, it was a 3 link setup and you had mentioned about suspension not unloading. I would have to look at my panhard length / setup. A 3 link is the only time, i have experienced suspension issues where the shocks are not getting their full travel.
This is one off the best videos I watched on setting them up...he shows u how they work and why..then shows u how to set them up.. I now understand ...
Thank you, mate. Truly happy that you found it useful. Feel free to subscribe, soon we plan to create more similar contents here.
Thank you. While this isn't a brand new video you have a more simple explanation and easier to understand pint of view with great instructions. Thanks
We are happy that you loved it. Enjoy the knowledge and apply on rocks!
Great explanation and examples! Thank you
Just wish I didn’t have to comprehend what you’re saying through the blaring music 😖
Thanks for your feedback, mate. We will take care of sound quality for sure in our next videos.
Building a sherpa thanks good information
Thanks so much, bud. Enjoy your build!
I set up my 10ii with 110 desert lizards, light(middle length)springs under/ medium (short) on top. And the light/ short on top in the rear. I still think I want 20 weight oil instead of 30, but it's also been 50°f.....it dropped the nose of my truck by 1/2 an inch. But the downhill control was truly the biggest surprise. Same everything, with only shocks changed was a huge improvement in performance. Need to build a lower profile front bumper and then I'm set up
Sounds promising, mate. Thanks so much for sharing your experience.
Easily one of the best videos explaining how the Desert Lizard shocks work and how to apply the different types of drooping settings that the shocks can provide along with the explanation on how they are going to work.
Thanks so much, mate. We are truly happy that you found it useful. More to come soon.
@@procrawlereu Today I tried out the setup you mentioned in your video and all I can say is WOW I have a totally new truck and my worst crawler is now almost as good as my best one. Outstanding. Thanks again.
@@brianreigle7905 We are superhappy with the progress on your setup, mate. Enjoy crawling!
Nice setup💪🏻
Thanks, mate. Mike did a really good job.
Thanks buddy
I finally understood the difference between droop setups and how it works 🙄
To me semi droop would be the best of both worlds
Thanks, mate. We are happy that it was helpful for you.
I have bin doing drup, from the get go. Rc crawling for 15 years
I just ordered some Desert Lizards and excited to mess with them some. You have the exact setup that I was thinking of using, makes the most sense for performance I think.
I do wonder about not running a return spring in the rear though, just the short soft compression spring. That would delay the back of the truck from having to lift the back axle over an obstacle and in theory give you better breakover performance.
So I was thinking soft short springs all around for compression, maybe mediums up front.
Soft medium length springs for return up front, no return spring in the rear.
Back of the rigs are very light anyways so controlling the lift back there during a steep descent won't have as much effect as it would up front during an ascent. In theory.... Need to test all this stuff.
Nice video!
We are happy if you find our video useful, mate. Let us know about your test results!
Many thks for the tutorial and Usefull info share!!! Subscribed
Thanks so much, mate. We are happy if you feel so. Keep crawlirawlirawlirawlirawlin'!
@@procrawlereu 🐼👍🏻 You're welcome my Friend
Thank you! Great video! I crawl out at north mountain...maybe I'll thank you in person someday
Thanks so much, mate. We are happy if you liked it and found it useful.
I crawl with the North Valley Crawlers.. Look me up. I’m out every Sunday..
Hey Mike, when are you gunna come run out at the new spot, at the end of Northern?
Were usually out there, every Saturday morning, at 5:30 am...
First video I've found that actually helped me👍
Sean, we are happy to hear that... Hopefully not the last as we come out new thematics in LCG ThinkTank time by time. :)
great explanation. thank you.
Thanks so much, mate. We are happy if you found it helpful.
Very awesome video. Just got my lizards and set them up like you did for semi. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I am new to LCG so this helped a ton. Subbed and liked...
We are truly happy to be able to help you with your build, mate. Keep up building and driving in this amazing hobby!
nice idea for droop suspension. currently i am using rubber band as droop suspension. 😂
Fine, mate. Maybe it's time to take your droop setup to the next level. :)
Great video!
True 100% M.I.D.W.I.D! material.
Bravo bro!
Thanks, brother.
Excellent video !
I just ordered dessert lizards for my gen 8
This video is perfect for setting them up ! Thank you 😊
Happy that it could be a real-world help for you, mate.
I finally understand what drooped setup is. So for the inner spring, can I get a regular size spring and cut it in 4 pieces for all four droops?
Basically yes but not so simple. You have to test out what spring hardness/softness fits your RTR weight in front and rear. So a proper droop suspension setup needs a lot of testing and finetune to max out the performance of your rig.
Thanks. Great tips have shared with many friends
Thanks so much, we are happy to support you and the community.
Great video
Thanks, mate. We are truly happy if you liked that. More to come soon.
Just set up my scx10-2 honcho with these but I did wat you did for the rear on all 4 with 35wt oil. I think I will put the longer soft spring in the front though, but I want to run it a little first before I decide.
Yep. The final finetunes are up to you depending on your build and your driving style. Testing is a key.
Fantastic video!! Thanks 🙏
Happy you liked it. Thank you, mate.
🖐️🤠
Thank you for sharing 🤝
Absolutely brilliant 👍 observations & conclusions!
Our take away is to figure out how to apply to 1/24 scale crawlers. We've seen it applied to 1/32 Orlando's which have similar type shocks, spring inside.
So.......
Where there's a 'will' there's a way 👍
Subscribed 🤝
Cheers from 🇬🇧
Thanks so much, mate. Happy you liked it.
Awesome vid my RC friend 👍
Thanks so much in the name of Mike and the PROCRAWLER Team.
@@procrawlereu I think it doesn't say the size of the shock only the springs.are they 90mm 100 mm?
@@1BARBAS They maybe 90mm if I remember well. Feel free to ask the author Mike Chu directly in a comment under the video post on the Flatgekko™ LCG Crawler System Fan Page: facebook.com/groups/flatgekkolove/permalink/452405969209889/
@@1BARBAS Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed.
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks so much, mate. We try to do our best.
Thank's for the Information on the YRDL Shock set-up 💯 I was wondering if you could run a semi droop with soft long droop and soft short sprung and you've answered my question...
✌🤠👍 HFLPRCing - Having Fun Laughing Playing and RCing
👍😎👍 AOAH - Association of Addicted Hobbiest
🙏 SSPH - Stay Safe and Play Healthy My Friend
Thank you so much, mate. Happy to see if it was helpful for you.
Great video, helped my newbie brain inderstand it so much better. One thing wasn't clear - am I right you said the heavier the vehicle, the lighter the spring and oil weight, or did I misunderstand?
You need a heavier oil / springs for heavier vehicles. The whole idea is to slow down the motion of your rig at their extreme limits. This will allow you to make input adjustments before you flip.
Great info video 👍 I'm building a set of 90mm for a T3 Crawler
What about pistons what's a good starting point
Thank you
Are u prefer to fill oil or not? I just arrive this shock.. mine prefer the semi droop setup
In our experience using the proper oil with the proper oil weight is essential. The proper oil weight depends on the final RTR weight of your rig.
Got a scx10ii and thinking on go to the same direction but with a little butget. What pieces would be cheaper and better to improve?
Wheels and spring moods on shocks are planned.
Thanks
Do you mean building an LCG crawler or the droop suspension as "go to the same direction"?
For the front shock, how many mm do you use for the inner shock?
I set up my lcg with semi droop and it no longer traverses lines i previously did due to belly strikes.
How about running semi droop in the front and none or very low in the back to lift the belly abit?
That would be completely up to you, the video is just a starting point for tuning your shocks.
How did you get the power wagon body so low on the chassis , great video and explanation 👍🏻🙂
Thanks so much, mate. Actually you want to run on AMS (axle mounted servo) or horizontal CMS (chassis mounted servo) if you want to go so low with the Power Wagon body. In that case the hood can sit on the shock hoops. The Flatgekko C23 V2 shock hoops we consciously lowered to make real flat builds available. Learn more here: procrawler.eu/flatgekko-c23-v2-lcg-crawler-chassis/
Not bad!
Thanks, mate.
hi, can you give more details about spring settings for front & rear droop setup for LCG rig.. thanks
Hi, what are you exactly intereted in?
Best Droop setup for front & rear..
@@yusoffadil7425 Mike explains the whole setup and how to's in detail in the second half of the video.
I don't quite understand in the video. can you explain in writing for the setup?.. sorry & thanks.. 🙏🏻
I’m on the flatgekko facebook page, join the page and send me a message. I can put it on a piece of paper on how to set it up.
What length of the shocks recommended for front and rear for flatgekko?
Mike's advice regardig the size in a Facebook post: "Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed."
I'm trying to figure my droop set up out on my new build I'm running a rock pirates chassis with 4ws what springs would u recommend also has the pro line power wagon body
Hi mate, the setup seen in the video is a great starting point for you. Finetuning you can realize after some field testing. The proper setup depends on several things like RTR weight, driving style, etc.
@@procrawlereu thank u very much
Have you done this setup without the desert lizards? If so where would you get the springs that would fit inside of say an SCX10 2 or 3 shock?
You can either use pen springs or Rc4wd sells internal springs with 3 different spring rates lfor their 90mm shocks that will fit SCX10 standard shocks under the piston. However, the SCX10 shocks were not made for internal springs, iYou will lose travel.
How to minimize the shock travel sacrifices... if we put the inner spring the shaft can not fully extend to max
Thanks, very helpful now ‘to take action’ better set my gecko up . I have rc4wd emu shocks can I use them ?
Thanks so much, mate. Yep, Emu shocks may be ok as a basis but for high performance later you may want to switch to some shocks like Desert Lizards, Pro-line Big Bores or Pro-Specs, maybe Dravtechs for droop setup.
Just ordered a set of desert lizard 😊
@@RcScaleTales You rock, mate!
For the springs inside, could you make them each equal length so you had 50% compression?
If you are just trailing, this would be great. However, not so good for rock crawling steep inclines. Your losing the benefits of droop setup.
@@mikechu7959 mainly trailing and some light crawling. If you had two of the same trucks at the same ride height, one had normal (let’s say 70mm) shocks, the other had 50/50 droops that were originally longer shocks (let’s say 90mm). What would the benefits to this be?
I personally don’t like running short shocks. Because, you have lost a bunch of articulation. If you are doing light crawling and trailing. 50-50 would be great or even regular 90mm. If you are trailing. You want ground clearance. Stay with regular shocks. That would be your best bet. Droop or semi droop are for people that want to crawl extreme inclines, downhill or side hills.
What is the brand of that front bumper on the Dodge? I like it!
As we know it's a custom 3D printed bumper from Mike.
What size of shock are you used 90mm or 100mm thx.
Look at the overall length of the shock when you compress the shock. When referring to the different length of the shock, it means 90mm eye to eye when the shocks are compressed.
On semi droop, aren't the top springs going to ruin the rubber diaphragm?
There are no diaphragms in desert lizards. If your trying to put internal springs into standard shocks then you will run into this problem.
@@mikechu7959 ahh ok thanks, I think I'm going to get the lizards.
What piston hole option was used
i never run fully sprung or full droop always somewhere in between. Good video
Yep. It's all about personal preferences and driving style. All solutions are valid if they are proven on the rocks.
드롭쇽은 샤프트를 쇽으로 계속 당겨지는거죠?
Are you using just the droop springs in your semi droop setup or are you using the longest normal suspension springs also? I want to replicate your setup as a starting point.
Where can I get my hands on such shocks for axial capra,running on 2.2 wheels
We recommend to google on "Desert Lizard shocks" or so and Google gives you the options.
What oil do you use front/rear ?
It will depend on how much your rig weighs. 5lb to 8lb rigs. I’m at 50wt rear / 40wt front. You want the rear to move slower, so you can catch your rig, at extreme steep crawl, if it starts to tip. Also, remember for droop to work effectively, your axles needs to be weighted. If the axles are not heavy enough, the body will just pull the axles off the ground. Weigh the front axle down, and just add enough to the rear where your happy with the downhill.
It would have been nice not to have music in the background.Because I had a hard time hearing any words you were saying
Roger that. We will do our best to make videos with better sound quality, mate. We hope you found it useful anyways.
Nove joob..can you tell me the size off the shocks?
Thanks, mate. Mike mentions all the details in the "how-to" section in the second half of the video about his exact setup.
That cassis looks just like the g-speed v3
I just seen this and I’ve been trying to get my springs right. My rig is 5.6lbs unsprung weight is 3.8lbs I’m running the medium short spring top and soft medium spring bottom for an 80% droop with 45w oil all around. My suspension still unloads all the way not fast but I’m getting about 6.5” of articulation. Should I run a stiffer bottom spring to limit it to maybe 4.5 to 5” of articulation?
Watch my video closely at the end.
Front: 1st into the chamber (short length) soft rate, (long length) soft rate under piston, then shock cap.
Rear: 1st into chamber (short length) medium rate spring, (medium length) soft rate under the piston, then shock cap.
Don’t forget, when tightening, shocks have to be fully compressed when tightening. Otherwise, there will be air pockets and won’t let your shocks completely compress during operation of your rig.
Okay I think I got it now my rear is setup just like yours but I also have my front the exact same as the rear. I just need to make my front different and I should be good. Thanks for your help.
👍👍👍
🥰🤩💥💯👍👏
your front shock angle looks like it is not allowing shocks to unload properly
This is a 4 link front suspension, no issues with the front shocks getting full travel. The internal shocks is holding the body down. Maybe, that’s what you meant by your comment. If, it was a 3 link setup and you had mentioned about suspension not unloading. I would have to look at my panhard length / setup. A 3 link is the only time, i have experienced suspension issues where the shocks are not getting their full travel.