CV joint extraction tool - is it any good?
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2018
- So some of you may have watched a recent video I uploaded with Tool Girl Ali where we removed a CV joint from the drive shaft using a piece of soft bronze bar and a hammer....it works, but it's not the best method that's for sure.
After I edited the video I remembered that one of my students, a few years ago, gave me a tool for doing just this job. I ad a rummage around and found it so I thought we'd give it a try & see just how useful it is....
As usual though....things have a habit of not going quite to plan!
Andy Mechanic - Авто та транспорт
Great video. I always seem to have these problems. It never goes like it should. Last time I had an axle that would not come off the hub where the tire & rim mount. I used my press & still no go. I had to get a hub along with an axle. I still have the axle & hub that wouldn't come apart. I hang it up on the wall now as a reminder that you can't always get what you want. Now I'm battling an axle that doesn't want to snap into place into the transmission. The clip does not want to compress like the one you just showed. Going to have to take a closer look at the clip. No tool for installing the axle either. It's always something that ruins the party. 88 Honda hatch
Superb..could listen to you for ever ....
Thx for the investigation! thumb up (also for the nice assistants i focused on)
Great perseverance, well done!
Hi there
great video. Just goes to show that all CV joints are not an easy job. Just had the same trouble with a 1998 Toyota Starlet. What started as a CV boot change turned into a major job. Just like in your video the circlip was well and truly up against a square shoulder so all the methods normally accepted for removal didn't stand a chance. I had to cut the CV joint off using a cutting disc (what a long and laborious job) finally slitting the last part into three pieces just shy of the spline and cracking it of with a chisel. By the way I did purchase one of those CV extraction tools. Whilst I'm sure it would remove most CV joints it was up against a brick wall on the Toyota.
Great video, thanks for sharing this detail, you have provided your audience with an incredible level of information that helps. It's good to see the failures as well as the successes. I am working on the exact same issue with a set of Kubota 1100 CV axles and may try the removal tool. But I really like the knowledge gained by you cutting the bad joint apart and explaining the chamfer area that is supposed to compress the clip. I now understand the theory and why the hammer and punch method is not so good because it does not provide even pressure to compress the clip.
One time use only shaft. It was clear when you finally got to the cir-clip that there was no chamfer to gently compress it into release mode. The cir-clip remained at full expansion to fill the shoulder in the spline area. No way in He!! was it ever meant to come apart normally. Cheers, Andy. Hoping to see Ali and Harley again on your fine show. : )
You are correct Len. What a disposable World we now live in!
The girls will be back soon :-)
Cheers Andy
Useful tool. I've only got VAG cars and luckily on them you can remove the joint by just screwing the hub bolt back into the end of the joint and it will pop off.
Andy, what a fighter eh. Good video, thanks for doing it,very interesting how it all ended up. 👍👍👍
I got the same press. worked once , give a good rating on amazon and when i tried it on the shaft mounted on the car it went wothless. took up me old friend , the hammer and after 20-30 bangs it finaly came of. didnt need the old joint anyway.
Had the same problem never seen it before will use the puller first had to cut it off thanks for the video
Thanks for this....I totally have this same issue on a POLO mk4 right now. and been searching methods for this. But I think i am going to do something similar without grooving the shaft I hope. But great help thanks. Got a new Sub
Very good educational video thank you
Ran into this enough times that when family members want me to change a cv joint i just tell them they need the complete drive shaft works everytime.🤤
Lol!
AVE does some really good teardowns and calculates actual torque which is often no where near claimed. Worth a look.
I love that mysterious man and his little one known only as AvE and Chickadee. Brilliant mechanically inclined individual
I saw this tool at Screwfix (in the UK) and the question was - how does it pull. Two little words. ---- 'The Nut' and all was clear. Cool vid Andy, pity about the fail though. .Love the way you cut through the chalice to access the snap ring.
Someone fitted it with Locktite instead of grease ! Brilliant real life video.
Great Video! Thanks!
VI É GOSTEI, VOU FAZER UMA EU APROVEI PARABÉNS.
Had new cv joints not going on due to the circlip .
Good video on poo tube on adjusting the size (dressing the circlip to the corect size )saved me hours of greif.
That's V.interesting to know!... can you give the link to this circlip dressing video,. Thanks!
If you were repairing/replacing driveshafts on a regular basis, I can recommend purchase of a HydraPak and its associated puller accessories. I doubt the clip would be able to withstand 500 ton of hydraulic pressure. Great vid Andy. 👍👍
Awesome.....I need one! ;-)
I have just spent five hours trying to remove my cv joint on my Zafira, bastard of a job, just like yours it refused ALL efforts to remove it, I've ended up repacking the joint with new grease and retitted the boot. Scrappy now, get another shaft, sod doing that again !!
Great video...also love the SOUTH Main auto sticker on your tool box ...Eric O. calls his " big nasty" going to name your impact wrench?
just bought one of them wish me look for tommorow
I would like to see a video putting in the shaft into your helper, I mean the car. ha ha nice video I gave you a like for that.
I have the same tool as well as a Matco identical. The last Chinese tool cost me $18.00 purchased on eBay and pops my Nissan xTrail joints right off without even taking the shaft out of the transmission even.. You cannot get assembled shafts where I live (Panama) except from the dealer at $1,200.00 a whack, You can get joints on the after market for around $25.00 and high quality boots now for around $10.00 so the tool is worth having and work worth doing here. I can change a boot in a few minutes on this car. I have never had a cv joint on either of my xTrails fail, just ripped boots (220,000 and 330,000 km respectively). When the car was newer I found a boot at the dealer for $75.00 one time. I keep certain parts on hand new like cv joints, starter, alternator, radiator as sometimes parts stores are out and as well I might have to make a two hour trip for them. I need to order two rear cv joints to have on hand as they are not available here. xTrails were not sold in the U S so not all parts are available there. I get them here and from believe it or not Latvia and have them sent to my freight forwarder in Miami, sometimes China or Japan, but I really don't need many parts like that I like these cars and don't plan on buying anything else anyway, if I bought another car it would be again an xTrail T30, so I will not get stuck stocking parts, I can change a starter in half an hour from above without lifting the car, oil in 15 minutes without lifting the car as well. The T31 was not as good and had transmission problems. the T30 was all Japanese, the later models have too many Renault parts and less room. Having to go to the dealer for three years for all maintenance and oil changes to keep your warranty is very expensive and time consuming, so I would rather buy a low mileage T30 and save myself about $30,000.oo all things considered over buying an inferior later model of the same car. The T30 is so ridiculously easy to work on that and durable for a cheaper suv that this makes sense here. For a $30,000 saving I can take care of any problems myself. If I lived where there were good mechanics I might feel differently, but here mechanics are notoriously bad, even at the dealer, and the nissan dealer here used to try to charge for warranty work, I had some arguments over that. It's not that I do such good work, it's that everybody else does such bad work.. About five years ago three different cars less than a year old caugt on fire in the same month, the reason given on the news cast was simply that they had been worked on by mechanics. So that says something about mechanics here. And those must have been at dealers as they weren't old cars. I enjoy doing my stuff fast and easy watching everyone else waste their time and money at dealers. I am a retired ship pilot so I could afford any car I want to drive, but I see the Mercedes and BMW guys continuously frustrated with time and money and aggravation spent at dealers and careless mechanics, only to drive an "image" car which is in truth complicated junk. Now, on the other hand, if I was not well equiped I would be in the same boat, But I am a tool nut and my shop would buy around 5 Mercedes or BMWs (I even have large plate shears and bending brakes and plate rolls and several top of the line welders like Dynasty 350s, lathes, milling machines, etc. It is one of the largest industrial shops in this country, but just for personal use). But I like working on my own stuff and making what I want and it keeps me occupied and out of casinos and happy hour. I previously had a Toyota Corrolla, I could never get a cv joint off that car without a cutting torch, and had several joint failures. It was a good car, gave me 670,00 kilometers. The xTrails are better and easier to work on. And with cars like that that are popular you always find cheap parts, even lamps, and headlamps, and in a place with crazy traffic like Central America, you can just walk away smiling even if it's totaled in a wreck.And you can have 2 or 3 or 4 so you don't have to worry about having no car or your only (expensive) car down, you always have a car or two working and can do repairs at your leasure. Prestige? I find it more prestigious to have a half a million dollar shop than to have spent a half a million on big name cars that were complicated junk when they were manufactured. Buy cheaper more normal cars that will be very popular, after they are on the market a while there will be cheap parts everywhere. Not so with the show off cars. But you have to like working on things and be happy buying quality tools, so maybe it's not for everybody. It is nice having the equivalent of a small shipyard in your house, (I could build tugboats here if I was so inclined, I was a tugboat and fishboat captain years ago and grew up on them and have a steam and motor chief engineers license as well as a master's license (U S License) so I know what gose into that and am not exaggerating,) I just like my tools and machines and being able to get anything or any construction project done without paying someone to do inferior work with bad materials. So, my Chinese tool works as good as my quality Matco just like it, at least on my current cars. I do accept that if you do not like working on things and have a don't have a tool psychosis and like drinking and happy hour and socializing and listening to boring conservation then my lifestyle is not for you. Oh, I bought 3 of the Chinese pullers so I could alter two, at under $20 why not? Whether they will work or not depends on your car and how the c clip groves are machined on that shaft and joint on that model. Like I said, the Corolla joints were always a cutting torch job.
lol you made me laugh when it broke. i give you a a thumbs up. reminds me of a time where i got my ass kicked from a toyota v6 camry joint. tried to pop the outer joint with a big hammer. couldnt get it off. it won. i just wanted to see if i could get it off, never did. i struggled. it won. maybe the tool will work on a little honda joint.
I just recently had to replace both cv joint outer boots on an 84 Ford Laser. I first used the hammer to try and get them off, didn't work. Then I made up on of those cv joint puller tools and that didn't work either. Mine didn't break only bent it. In the end I just cut the cv joint off to try and get the circlip out, but the circlip on the Ford Laser is actually in a groove hidden inside the inner race of the cv joint not exposed on the end of the shaft like the one in your video. I think the problem is when you try to hammer them off and they don't come out first go, the splines actually mushroom out a little and stop the cv joint from sliding off.
Yes, that makes sense! I'll be using a puller every time first from now on! Cheers Andy
Hey Adrian, you in Oz? I have a 87 Ford Laser, KC 1.3, and I know at least on those, the outer joint is actually not meant to separate. On my 94 Corolla, same story. Haynes reckons that and the EPC data on my Toyota matches. You can only separate the inner joint, not the outer. So that might have also been the case with yours?
@@lashismechadventures9188 Hi, Yeah I'm in Oz. I was going off the Ford factory service manual. It says the outer joint is removable by giving a sharp blow with a large hammer or use a puller to remove the outer joint..
Had this a couple weeks ago on a Toyota Starlet, Had to grind the cage slots, flick the balls out remove the outer race, grind 2 slots in the inner race parallel to axis of shaft 180 apart till race is paper thin and chisel it till it breaks in half, no damage to the shaft, fit new cv joint, all good, cheers Ross.
Great job....yes, these CV joints can be a real mission! Cheers for the feedback. Andy
Yup had to do the exact same thing to my 1992 toyota starlet when I did the cv in the left side I think had to do the boot on the other side just pulled off the inner cv and slid it all the way over the shaft
I thought I had a hard time getting the cv joint off a 1996 mazda famlia. It was easy by comparison. I might get that tool in advance before I have to replace the other side.
Thats the best drive shaft cir clip no worries the drive shaft will slip out what so ever😂🤣
why not just move the puller close to the vise and push off of it instead of all that set up time?
nice video . and possibly explains why it is that some CV axles are extremely difficult to remove from the transmission end. In any event, seeing as I cant get my axle out of the transmission, I bought the tool so I can remove the faulty outer CV and replace it with a new one. So lets see what happens for me. (Plan D) .
Good Luck! Cheers Andy
Bought this tool on ebay for $18.00. CV joint good, rubber boot split/perished. Boot cost $8.00. 👍🏻from 🇭🇲
Yeah I just saw it too on eBay, 18 bucks, why not.
@@tonykb2193i put the driveshaft in a heavy duty vice. Tried to remove the CV joint with this tool. CV joint would not come off. I used a 750 foot pound 3/4 drive impact gun, i knew if i kept going the removal tool would have broken. I used a 4 pound hammer to hit the CV joint off the shaft/ended up damaging the CV joint. Have since installed a conplete new drive shaft. I've been told by a mechanic, if a CV joint doesn't come off on the first 1 or 2 blows with a hammer, it will be very difficult to remove. The "C" clip that secures the CV joint on the shaft, locks on instead of releasing.
The welds on that tool didn't look all that great to begin with. Make sure whoever welds(repairs) that tool gets good penetration with the heat. Adding a couple of greased washers under the nut would have helped to reduce friction of the nut against the tool and should have improved pressure of extraction.
Torque Test Channel has all the answers on how much power your Makita has.
Thanks for cutting that at the end, it was bugging me, cheers
Any tricks for removing the inner joint on a late model Toyota Tundra?
It be interesting to use a 20 ton shop press to try and press it out before pulling the clip
Andy how do you remove the cv joint when the threats are stripped
After you cut the cup. Why did you not use the press to get it out
I am a mechanic I have an endeavor tools version of this tool. Its is good for replacing outer boots withing pulling the shaft from the car. But i have found some CV joints are made like your version with little or no relief meaning that they will not come apart or at least very unlikely to. Just for information Ford territory SX AWD front drive shafts have no relief factory joints.
Yes, Thanks for the info. It seems with more modern cars it's designed that you have to replace the complete shaft! Unfortunately, unless you know each model it's a bit of trial & error!
Thanks for your feedback. Cheers Andy
I have the exact same tool, works very well on a SAAB 95 cv joint.
It works well on the cv joints its made for some the lock ring seems to work differently. Like PSA for example.
Yes, totally agree, turned out the Rav4 CV joints aren't designed to be replaced - Toyota want you to buy a complete shaft!
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic On my peugeot 206 you are supposed to break the outer bearing cage with a chisel take the balls out then split the inner cage with a grinder and a chisel or the chisel end of a hammer. I suspect that is because on a cheap car they would get more shop time that way to scrape back some of the losses they made selling the car.
17:17 pffffft I hate this kind of things 😂
Just done one today trying to press a seized driveshaft joint out the hub.... pressed it until the end thread became a flower 🌷 🤣 and all I'll need to do now is just press even more and then buy a new outer joint...
Andy here in uk where you obviously must have learned your trade there are certain drive shafts that the cv joints are not designed to come off you replace full shaft. Ive come across it just a couple of times in the last 10 years but cant remember what manufactures use this type. I think it could've been renault 1 of the times with me. Edit 1st time watching 1 of your videos. If it was to change cv boot you could also fit a stretch cv boot with use of the tool ( its a big plastic cone & cheap)
Nice calendar on the door
It's a Wurth one :-)
Andy could you use a shop press with snap on bearing halfs
What's with the red grease in the first shaft? I thought you were always meant to use a dark Molly Grease (Molydenum disulphide) in CV joints.
No idea? I hadn't stripped that joint previously so don't know where it came from.
Cheers Andy
anylube will work for them hotties
The red grease is probably Redline CV grease. It is excellent for CV joints.
CV joints can be a pain. I was trying to do this on a quad several years ago. I ended up cutting up the outer ball socket. I thought it was the worst one that I ever encountered. I was wrong. Last month I was working on the same quad and was replacing all four drive shafts. The last shaft wouldn't come out of the machine. I built a slide hammer attachment and gave it some huge wacks. Nope, at first it broke the adapter. Then I rewelded it using that nut ... I had extras! Nope! It pulled most of the shaft and broke the inner slide joint. It just pulled the gutz right out of it. Now what? There is nothing to grab on to. So I grapped the torch and burned two holes across from each other that I could get a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt through. Then I built a puller with a 2 ton hydraulic cylinder and a treddel pump. It still wouldn't budge, and it would just bend the bolt/s in half. It was stuck on there. I thought that I was going to have to buy a differential for this quad. I finally took the brand new opposite side shaft off that I had put on several hours earlier, and using a large socket and an extension, I hammered the shaft out with two really hard wacks. (the differential has a hollow drive spline that drives both axles) what a pain! Hey, I love the calendar on the wall, Andy, at least I think it's calendar? It has a seven on it and two lovelys but I don't see any numbers? Probably after looking at the picture, you don't care what day of the month it is! Hahahaha Great channel!
Thanks James for taking the time to tell me your experience with CV joints. It sounds like it was you, not me, that had the drive shaft from Hell!
Great job getting it out & you went to a lot of trouble to make up various tools to try extract the shaft....your perseverance paid off though. Great job.
Cheers Andy
Interesting Video, I wonder would it of made any difference if you had placed the driveshaft in a verticle position,
and they say mig mag welding is good, i would try to use the clamping piece close to the spider and push a separator fork in between. i tried it with to spanners and a piece of round stock in between on a vw golf, axle shaft was thinner close to the spider, btw i have 2 of those, one is a bit crooked on the welding top could be the problem it broke
tried to remove it on a vw t4, did not manage to do it. I will replace the entire drive shaft then do a teardown on the old shaft to see what went wrong.
A hammer can do the same trick without buying a special tool. Here in the U.S., Chinese made C.V. shaft is so cheap and well made enough no one replaces boots any more. I used to try to save $20 per side by doing this, no longer.
so true
You absolutely right man. No one is crazy trying to remove the cv joint. Ain't worth it. His point is to show the tool.
Yeah I have BMW E60 that you can't even buy CV joint for but you have to buy whole shaft. Cheapest chinese one lasted 3 months, so no thanks
I'll ask now tho I haven't watch the whole video yet.... I've never seen a cv axle pulled apart. I've always just replaced the whole axle. But what actually wears? Just the bearing/universal joint or do the spines wear too? And is it worth rebuilding one or just replacing?
Handy little puller tool tho!
Looks like that joint was ment to slide on. But looks like it wasn't tapered to come off. So ment not to be serviceable
Yes, it did look like that, however, the one that came apart at the first attempt looked to be fitted in the same orientation. Maybe there was a problem with the splines on the shaft? I'm not a mechanic, just putting in my two pence worth!
Most people haven't, the CV joint is like any bearing. The challis is the outer race and the inner part is the inner bearing. Check out my other video which covers a full inspection & why they start to make a 'clicking' noise.
Cheers
Andy
First one I have ever come across that can't be removed then. Bloody manufacturers!
Cheers
Andy
May be the cv joint had been off before and had a slightly bigger clip replaced unless it was rusted on the shaft which it was not their is no reason i can think of other then a bigger clip was replaced from the factory clip because every shaft would probably need replacing on that type of vhicle if the cv joint cannot be moved.
You could have replace it the other way round, fitted the circlip and then tried to remove? Proving if it was a faulty taper ??/
Normally I would take apart the inner joint the slip the outer boot off, but I don't mind having that tool in my collection
Is this axle from a toyota? Usually you have to destroy those if it is.
LOL ... didn't expect to see ladies
Hi Andy which car the one that could not come off from is it a Toyota? Toyota c v joint is the hardest to come off.
Yes, it was a Toyota Rav-4. Turns out the circlip groove had no chamfer at all so CV not designed to be removed from the shaft - complete drive shaft replacement according to Toyota.
Cheers
@@AndyMechanic Yep, can confirm this. On my 94 Corolla, it's the same deal. When you want to replace the outer shaft, you have to replace the whole axle. Not sure why they decided to go down that route, it's a bit of a waste to be honest.
I watch a video and see this tool from laser just dont know what it was for it wasn't easier and cheaper to replace the hold shaft just wondering thanks for the great video and tool demo
On the Toyota you have to replace complete shaft but on most cars you can just replace the CV joint which is much much cheaper. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic oh noo thats a bad news since i have a toyota car with damaged cv joint😭😭😭
i have the same situation...
I could have used one of those years ago but new shafts are so cheap now.
It's a disposable World we live in....Cheers Andy
I like your video content, have a workshop in Indonesia too
Thanks :-)
@@AndyMechanic do you have an app to submit videos
@@AndyMechanic want to ask about auto repair equipment
No, I just use the UA-cam uploader...
from my experience sometimes the cir clip can spread out a fraction while trying to remove the joint making it impossible to get past, probably cos i use a hammer lol 9 times out of 10 it works though
Andy, did you emigrate from Yorkshire? You certainly got your money's worth from that disc!
Traveler x is right! For 40 to 50 bucks you can pick up new cv shaft for an suv and save all that work.
Did you know CV joints are made that they can be disassembled by aligning the balls in a certain way. Then you are able to use a puller to remove the jaw.
Done one of them before the circlip doesn't compress
15:52 and 19:02 Not all joints can be simply pulled apart... some have a different design of circlip, which needs to be spread apart with a screwdriver... it is located in the CV joint (not on the shaft)... no amount of hitting or pulling would dislodge it unless you spread it open with a screwdriver...
You can't see nothing to put a screwdriver and move the circlip. How you do it m have any video
They should have a threaded plug so at least the mechanic has the opportunity to make a sort of endoscopy.
I've decided to stop replacing CV boots and swap axles instead
OEM axles are ridiculously expensive and I haven't had good luck with aftermarket ones. I'll definitely try that tool.
@@gillesd.2277 It didn't work on any cv axles so far for me, it always slipped.
It easy if you align both shafts carefully and work in steps. Cv joints have thick steel walls and is not so easy to cut as on video.
What's the point of a circlip if you can just pull the joint over it?
It offers resistance to hold the joint onto the shaft, it has a round section rather than a square section like a standard circlip
Cheers
Andy
@@AndyMechanic so just enough resistance to keep the joint from falling apart without assistance.
some joint have big circlip in side maybe it's because it didn't work, I had to discover it myself, many German car have it
I bought one of these as I thought it would make life easier!!! I think the second cv joint not coming off in your video and getting stuck is more the norm’ with this tool. In my experience I believe it pulls the cv joint just out of alignment and batters the c clip so it gets stuck just like in your video. The c clip had loads of what you’d probably call hammer marks/indents. Had to angle grind it off in pieces and by a new joint. Very disappointing tool and a waste of time and money in my opinion. The other side, I went old school hammer and hey presto it popped off after a few blows.
This tool was a total waste of time for me too, on a 88 Ford Laser
При такой же проблеме, мы обычно разрезаем внутреннюю часть ШРУСа (надрезаем с двух сторон, удар зубилом и он лопается) и не трогаем сам вал.
Сделай видюху)
@@BimmerFix Если не сойдёт шрус, мне как раз нужно менять, захрустел, сделаю.
@@user-lw2ck5fd9n шрус это сама граната? Если его разрезать то хана ему, надо новый покупать. Я их даже отдельное не видел
@@BimmerFix Да, к сожалению, нужно покупать новый и ему будет хана. Если для замены пыльника снимаете, то нужно постараться снять не разрезая.
You should be wearing safety goggles
Yes
it is ok that you used air to force the joint out? I don't think that this extraction tool(like most of them) are design to be used with repetitive shocks... it's either a force or a shock extraction tool, but not both. However... that CV was not ok anyway.
The hammer in traditional way its the best😂🤣
maybe the shaft was a one time use you know to remove and replace
It seems like that Joe. First time I have come across one! Cheers Andy
i had that problem when i first started working at dicks driveshaft i was young and un experanced found out some have a clip on insude race and some have clip on botom of race and some were crimped in hondas realy could use this tool
Wouldn't this kind of puller risk putting flat spots on the bearings and races in the joint, making the joint unusable or at least drastically shortening any remaining life in it?
Yes, good point. Possibly it could do that so not an ideal tool
the question is why make a joint that wasn't designed to be removed and regreased...i guess they just want you to buy a new shaft from them
May be its a clip you have to open rather than a knock like Audi shaft's
The tool cannot do VW or AUDI group CV joints because they are 100mm wide, but the tool only has an internal width of 95mm, so the VW CV joints cannot fit in the tool.... Sykes Pickavant make a better tool (Sykes Pickavant 08090000) that has an internal width of 105mm which can fit VW and AUDI group CV joints...
Very helpful Aman, Thank You. Yes, Sykes make great tools, I have a hydraulic puller of theirs that is over 25 years old and still going strong.
Cheers Andy
Maybe if u had used a hand ratchet and taking it slower the circlip would have compressed.
I don’t like to do this job. If I do the job I will replace one unit new
The point of the tool is to remove the cv joint without removing the axle...
Agreed, however these drive shafts were already out of the vehicle.
Cheers Andy
That CV end has a real problem not the tool. They didn't put enough taper on it.
😃 тыдаңңң 👍
Bit of a delayed comment but perhaps if you had put some pressure on it with the removal tool and then whacked the CV joint while it was under tension it might have let go?
Or a length way slit, 4 cuts and split it into quarters
Ah... good point but I have often found that once that circlip has got bent (partly out of the groove) it becomes an impossible job :-(
Turned out this Toyota drive shaft has no taper to compress the circlip - it's not designed to be split - the manufacturer just wants you to buy a complete new shaft!
Cheers Andy
He needed more shaft. Then he stuck it up a bit.
things that speed up things at the car factory, such as circlip assembly instead of nuts and bolts, can make life for owner maintenance and mechanics very difficult. eg compare this CV joint issue with the cv joints used on a 1971 VW Superbug. eg www.justkampers.com.au/air-cooled-vw-parts/vw-beetle-parts/gearbox-cv-joints/cv-joints-boot-kits/113-598-331-gkn-cv-joint-kit-vw-beetle-1969-1979.html NUTS AND BOLTS RULE OK. Of course after a life time of 30 VWs living now with a bloody water cooled FWD car is a complete pain in the frontal lobes.
Haha! Yes, vehicles are much less mechanic friendly these days that's for sure!
Cheers Andy
8:50 See the CV joint hits the tool... Sykes Pickavant 08090000 is a better designed tool....
Hi
Hey Sarah, its night time here in New Zealand. 1.30am. Can you message me again in around 8 hours when its 9.30am here. Thanks Andy
Cheep tool.. It is a Chaineez puller.. go for snappon or Hazzet
Regardless of the possible manufacturer's fault, the way you approached the problem left a lot to be desired.
Whoever taught you mechanics should consider safety factors more seriously.
Extractor tools are to be operated with hand force only, never with power tools.
Impact loads on extractors may cause them to shatter and shrapnel may get thrown around causing injuries.
Hand tightening the nut with a hand spanner, would allow the c-clip to align and contract into the groove nicely.
When you applied 1000NM of torque so brutaly, the c-clip was pressed against the shaft groove so violently
that the shaft splines formed a ridge making disassembly impossible.
While it's true that car makers can be held responsible for errors, the same can be said for poor automotive
workmanship at service stations.
The video was nice though, especially the intro with the hot girls...well done...
We later discovered that the CV joints on this vehicle are not designed to be removed. The circlip cannot retract into the groove like on most drive shafts. Unfortunately for the Tool used though....
Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Andy
the guy was just having some fun with an axle that was going in the trash, trying to figure out why he couldn't get the joint off, it's not a big deal
i'm glad he replied that wasn't designed to be pulled off, that's kinda what was found out at the end of this video if you woulda watched it all the way
i just can't believe you would make such a ridiculous comment that was completely unnecessary
@@johnjoseph7382
I just can't believe you made such a ridiculus comment that was completely
unnecessary regarding my pov.
That's a bit harsh to be fair & suicide is nothing to be joked about.
@@AndyMechanic
Ok...the suicide part was black humor, so I went back on my initial post and removed it.
The intention was to show that personal safety is first priority.
YTubers watching your vids, will more than likely try to copy your methods taking for granted
you're an expert on just about everything, which is not always the case.
Fair enough ?
Hammer vice and chisel😂
11:30 You are lucky that your CV joint fits in between the tool.... VW and AUDI group CV joints are too big to fit inside this tool... Sykes Pickavant 08090000 is a better tool that can do VW and AUDI group etc....
they let anyone become a Mechanic these days
If your groves are square and not beveled yhis will happen. you have no way of knowing. they should be round and beveled.
Correct....but until you pull off the first CV joint you don't know what type of groove the manufacturer has machined into the end of the shaft....
Cheers Andy