FlexiSpot is having their brand day sale once a year now - Up to 60% off！ Use the exclusive code 'BDC7.' for extra $30 off.It's the best time to get your favorite chair/desk now. US: bit.ly/3WWqINY CA: bit.ly/3wL49Bo "Free Event" on the 27th"
Yeah they are definitely more niche than some of the other ones but I also really enjoy them and feel like they are helpful. It’s a balancing act, but I try to cover a broad range of topics and items.
@@ModBotArmy I like that I can come to you for clear easy to understand direction on these things. Hard to get good at something you only do once or twice ever.
@@paintballercali thank you for the kind words. I have always tried to make my videos/coverage as easy to digest as possible. My background is not in engineering but I have worked around quite a few so I feel like it has helped me to bridge that gap when explaining topics.
@@ModBotArmyyou're doin' a great job by this. Just upgraded my M8P from CB1 to CM4 a few weeks before release of CB2. Even as english is a foreign language to me, i can completly follow your description. Maybe i would've tried it your way, if i'd waited a few weeks longer to upgrade😉
nee ting to note is the CB2/Pi 2 doesn't ave an SPI bus and if you are running an ADXL it will not work without an adaptor or switching to a USB accelerometer.
That's what they say. But they also say that it will work with IO2CAN board. And the IO2CAN board uses SPI. So I think that it has SPI and they mean that the BTT PI2 doesn't have an SPI flat ribbon cable connector, which BTT Pi did have.
All versions of the Manta MxP boards (excluding the E3EZ) have an 8-pin SPI header which can be used to connect an ADXL345 board. Pin names are different between the versions but Klipper configuration is pretty straightforward.
13:54 I do prefer running a pi with a separate power supply since the fans on my printer are extremely loud and you need to have everything powered up in order to power the CB1/2, with a separate pi you can do config changes and other maintenance with just the pi running while the printer itself is off and in worst case you can stop a print by just janking the power of the printer (with for example a relay) while mainsail (and crows nest) keep running.
Awesome vid! I am planning to use my Pi2 as a home server and discovered this company and product line accidentally. I'm working on improving the support for CB1 and upstreaming some form of support for CB2 in Armbian. Excited to see how the community will grow around the board/module in the future!
Thanks for the video. I just picked up one of these for a new “rebuild” of one of my V1 MP3DP. I run a cb1 with EMMC on another printer and really like it more than the sd card!
I use my iPad Pro to control my printers since I bought the M8P v2 not knowing it doesn’t have an expansion port and only ribbon port. I couldn’t use my original display so I had to buy something for it bought an M5P and that uses the original display. But I can now monitor both from my iPad just fine. If I can find an adapter for the ribbon and expansion port that would be great
Thank you for another useful guide. Do you have any tips for just an ethernet set up? I want to use my printer in my camper and will not have a constant wifi SSID so I am thinking about connecting to a router via ethernet cable. TIA
This was a fantastic guide, thank you! I managed to snag a Pad7 (w/o the CB1) and a CB2 for pretty cheap and this video was really helpful while I was setting it up.
I got the btt klipper pad last year and I still am having issues getting klipper up and running. It is my first time getting klipper working. I’m going to get it working this summer , hopefully. :)
As I’ve just gotten into 3D printing there is , needless to say, a ton of knowledge which I have yet to acquire. In the three weeks or so that I’ve owned a 3D printer, I’ve your channel is one of three that have become my go to place to learn what it is I’m doing wrong. I purchased an Ender 3 (OG) on eBay for $80 delivered as part of “Brand New, but open box” special. Upon receiving the Ender, i immediately Upgraded the build surface to glass, added second stepper motor and Lead screw to the Z axis and moved to a hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle. All that aside, the issue I’m trying to validate is the fact that it seems to not have enough current to the stepper motors when prints require all of the motors to be commanded on for some of the really long and crazy print moves. It has the stock P.S. and the Creality 4.2.2 board. Is there any way to increase the current availability ? Any thoughts or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos. -Jason Burchell.
I ended up using an old phone I had laying around. Complete package with camera, build in led for lighting and touchscreen all in a nice package... Setting it all up is a hassle though, but once I worked out all the funny business it really works fantastic. Although I'm running both the octo4a app (for the serial driver) and a debian vm for klipper and moonraker etc. I'm still planning to port my klipper install to the alpine image octa4a is running to have just 1 app running... But since it's running fine the way it currently is, that's gonna be some rainy sunday in 2030 if ever 😅 I still look to some alternatives like sbc's but it gets expansive fast if you also have to factor in a camera and screen... Can't beat the price of an old phone gathering dust in a drawer somewhere... Heck, it might even make sence to buy a cheap phone second hand if you know what to look for...
I like it has eMMC, which brings a few perks to the table, especially since smaller builds it can be handy to go with one of these all in one boards like the Manta.
Foot print is definitely a factor for an all in one. I tried the CM4 with the E3EZ on stream a while back and I couldnt get the OS to work correctly. Ended up reverting to CB1.
Thx for a great video.. I battled so much with my Voron 2.4R2 build with Manta M8P and CM4 that I have up and it’s been sitting in my garage 90% complete for almost a year now😫
Hi, I bought the CB1 and realized that on heavy tasks such as input shipping, it really struggles to keep up. The recommended acceleration on the X axis never exceeded 2900/s, whereas when I use klipper on my minipc, I go up to 5500mm/s (I have a Cartesian printer), exactly in the same ADXL test conditions. For this reason, I decided to go for the CB2.
Good video mate... As always. Thanks for the sharing. Really appreciate it. Just one thing that I liked as well... That ender 5 turned into merc1. That tool head... Love the small space it has... What is it? Belongs to the merc1 specs or is your own mod? Is there a good kit for merc1 or you did it all by yourself? Thanks for your knowledge share and all the help and contribution to 3d print world!
The one thing I gate about Big Tree Tech is that they always release a new hardware version right after I get the current version. Had I known about the CB2 coming out 2 months ago I would have waited as I just got 2 CB1 modules 2 months ago along with a Manta M5P for the Salad Fork I am build and a Manta M4P for the Enterwire conversion. For me, I don't car tomuch about "Crime Scene Investigation" support (LOL) but I'm sure people that wanted it are happy. Personally i never had any WiFi issues with the CB1. I really, rally hate that antennae connector. I always have issues connecting the antennae to it.
Nice to see the RK3566 out there doing more than powering a wave of mid range emulation handhelds. Not enough beef for something crazy like GameCube emulation, but they're reliable little chips. This seems like a great use for them.
I've upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to an E3EZ motherboard with CB1 almost a year ago. I just learned that I was supposed to add an heatsink?? I don't use my printer that much but so far I've never seen it overheating tho (never hitting above 60°C). Maybe needed only in an enclosure? Or it's surprisingly very sensitive to temperature and I'm slowly killing it (please no)
Unless you're doing very long prints in an enclosure and cooking the board at 60-70-80 oC for long periods of time you shouldn't have to worry about it. Those heatsinks are mostly useful for very airflow-constrained cases to help a bit with convection but the chip should be able to dissipate most of the heat just by itself. You should however have a fan blowing across the stepper drivers since they have to endure a lot more load, if you do any airflow from that should be plenty to cool the rest of the chips without any heatsinks. Only exception would be maybe if you attached like 2 or 3 cameras and the cb1 has to encode multiple streams, under those kind of loads you'd need a heatsink but mainsail by itself generates barely any load. However adding heatsinks is always a good idea so if you can find the correct sized one I'd still recommend installing it.
You say that the new module has 2.4GHz and 5GHz WLAN. So i guess you should use the new antenna they provide, unless the old antenna was already a dual-band antenna. But i doubt they would have shipped a dual band antenna before, with a board that only supports 2.4GHz.
@@ModBotArmy The antennas provided with my two CB2s are completely different than the ones on my CB1s. They are longer strips. WiFi performance is still not great - it is able to achieve a 390Mbs data link on 5.xGHz out of the theoretically possible 433Mbps using a single RX/TX chain, despite being 2 meters from a 802.11af access point ("WiFi5").. Testing with iperf3 towards a wired server in my network reveals an actual TCP throughput of 120~160Mbps but with a lot of retransmissions. Bottom line - It's better than the CB1 (which wifi chipset was a bad joke), but nowhere near the performance and stability you can observe from a Pi CM4.
@@Levisgil47 I wouldn't consider boot time to be very long - compared to the CB1 it’s faster in boot time and other tasks such as compiling firmware and creating input shaper graphs. Still, a CM4 is considerably faster than both boards.
I do have one question. I am thinking about buying the M5P for my Tronxy XY3SE. I was thinking about stretching for those TMC5160 instead of the TMC2209s. Would it be worth it and are those compatible with this board? I am hesitant to buy from BTT just because they can't answer questions, I just get, "best wishes". To be fair, Tronxy is just as abysmal. The Prusa looks better and better.
My Voron 2.4 with cb1 is a little laggy with some commands while printing like z offset or pause and usb camera will only run at 12fps but usually runs between 1fps-8fps.would upgrading to CB2 solve these issues.i am using ethernet to printer not WiFi
Can I ask what the antenna standard/connector type is for the cb1/cb2? I suspect mine is borked, so while I upgrade to a CB2 for wifi 5 I may as well get a new antenna
The CB2 comes with an antenna as well. (Sorry if I didnt explain that) so you shouldnt need to buy one. I dont know the name of the specific form factor but it is the same as what an ESP32 would use or CM4. If you want a fancier option here is one from Adafruit for the CM4 www.adafruit.com/product/4793
I’m trying to flash the image onto an SD card but get an error saying that “The writer process ended unexpectedly”. Is there a requirement on what sort of SD card is needed?
Ordered a cb2 last week, havent gotten the shipping confirmation yet, but I planned an entire build using a m8p, cb1 and tft50... needless to say, this is a more affordable choice to change. Also less headaache, trying ro get klipperscreen on an old fire tablet is... second rate
You're talking about being more affordable, then you knock the truly affordable option. It's far from second rate, it's useful for a lot of people, and getting it running you keep your mind active and god forbid you learn something new in the process. Or even better yet just because something isn't plug and play doesn't mean that it isn't a good choice or is second rate to the aforementioned option. You should humble yourself, you may learn something in the process
Oh. Please forgive me for not being humble enough for you. Did I spend your money to get the parts I ordered to work? No? Okay. Then zip it pal. Not everyone is Linux/python 3 experts, some of us are doing this... *GASP* as a HOBBY... kindly get off your high horse there keyboard warrior. Unless you're willing to be patient enough to help a guy that works full time and tries to squeeze in building a printer on the side then please... 'humble' yourself.
What big tree tech board do I need to get for an ender 5 plus? I have an skr mini will it work . I want to get around using a pi since they are now close to $80
I really love the onboard CAN and screw terminal variable voltage power input. Regular Pi power supply requirements are getting insane. With all the auto tech being adopted by 3D printers, I think automotive Ethernet would be the next awesome one. Just 2 wires, much lower latency than regular Ethernet, slightly higher throughput for a given MHz rating and 100baseT1 transceivers are coming down in price.
Ahh you mean going with the BTT Pi or the PI4B adapter with the CM module. Thats a really good point. If your controller doesnt have CAN bridge then its nice to have it and I agree not needing a buck converter or separate PSU is great. Some of the controllers due have the ability to power the PI directly. I have done it at least once or twice but i have heard it can be hit or miss with low voltage issues.
Ahh this is true. I forgot about that. It wasnt available when I first covered the CB1. I think I ordered on at one point lol. I gotta look through my parts.
What Quality are you able to run your webcam with the cb2? Because I had heard that was a bit of an issue with the cb1 and was wondering if it is worth upgrading from the cb1 in the Formbot Voron Kit that I might soon buy.
I'd like to know as well. I did install a 2GB CM4 in my Pad 7 and it worked very well, but there aren't any overlays available for the LEDs on the front of the Pad 7 and I couldn't get the adxl working. Ended up reverting to the CB1. Adxl still won't work though...I may have broken it. Waiting for BTT to release the Pad 7 CB2 heatsink so I can order them together.
Well, you got lucky to make the video after version 1.0.4 was released I got a couple Pi 2s to replace my Orange Pi Zeroes (wifi disconnecting every couple of days was already getting tobñ my nerves, qnd the additional USB ports are a plus), but back then vereion 1.0.3 was out and no CH341 drivers were installed so connecting the printer through USB was not possible (a kind user compiled the drivers to install them on the issue rhat was created, afterwards version 1.0.4 was released with the drivers included... Gotta say that was a big blunder on BTTs side)
I think I'd rather wait for CM5. For better support. I use currently CB1 with armbian because of old kernel in original OS build. Works ok but yeah... sometime wifi interface just dont show up other than that its ok. But i want to use better camera so CSI is only option. USB cams are just bad and good ones are expensive.
at 11:54 you say “Depreciated” when i believe the word you were looking for was “Deprecated” It took me wayyyyy too long to ever realize these were different words… Hope this helps
@@chrisward8521 The support is what you need to worry about. Is BTT (or anyone?) contributing upstream code for the CM1's AllWinner chip? Probably not, so really, your only option is the image that comes from BTT. The Rockchips are a little better, but there's generally not very good driver support for Linux on these. BTT has already had a bunch of firmware gaffes that have caused WiFi not to work on some boards, and bad passwords on others. BTT (and most Chinese OEMs when it comes to small ARM SBCs) don't seem to care after the thing ships. Knowing that a Raspberry Pi will get the updates required if an issue arises and that there are quality alternative OS's that can run on it is worth the extra $5-10 for me.
FlexiSpot is having their brand day sale once a year now - Up to 60% off！ Use the exclusive code 'BDC7.' for extra $30 off.It's the best time to get your favorite chair/desk now.
US: bit.ly/3WWqINY
CA: bit.ly/3wL49Bo
"Free Event" on the 27th"
CSI and DSI are major improvement! Thank you so much for mentioning it!
I agree! I was pretty bummed when I discovered it was only available with the CM4 if you went with the Pi4b adapter (until now).
Thanks for making these videos I'm sure they don't do as well because they don't apply to as wide of an audience. But I appreciate it.
Yeah they are definitely more niche than some of the other ones but I also really enjoy them and feel like they are helpful. It’s a balancing act, but I try to cover a broad range of topics and items.
@@ModBotArmy I like that I can come to you for clear easy to understand direction on these things. Hard to get good at something you only do once or twice ever.
@@paintballercali thank you for the kind words. I have always tried to make my videos/coverage as easy to digest as possible. My background is not in engineering but I have worked around quite a few so I feel like it has helped me to bridge that gap when explaining topics.
@@ModBotArmyyou're doin' a great job by this. Just upgraded my M8P from CB1 to CM4 a few weeks before release of CB2.
Even as english is a foreign language to me, i can completly follow your description. Maybe i would've tried it your way, if i'd waited a few weeks longer to upgrade😉
@@maverickhawk9887 🙏
nee ting to note is the CB2/Pi 2 doesn't ave an SPI bus and if you are running an ADXL it will not work without an adaptor or switching to a USB accelerometer.
That's what they say. But they also say that it will work with IO2CAN board. And the IO2CAN board uses SPI.
So I think that it has SPI and they mean that the BTT PI2 doesn't have an SPI flat ribbon cable connector, which BTT Pi did have.
All versions of the Manta MxP boards (excluding the E3EZ) have an 8-pin SPI header which can be used to connect an ADXL345 board. Pin names are different between the versions but Klipper configuration is pretty straightforward.
I like these boards a lot. I have a CB1 in a M8P and a M5P. Both are great. I think they really clean up a builds wiring
13:54 I do prefer running a pi with a separate power supply since the fans on my printer are extremely loud and you need to have everything powered up in order to power the CB1/2, with a separate pi you can do config changes and other maintenance with just the pi running while the printer itself is off and in worst case you can stop a print by just janking the power of the printer (with for example a relay) while mainsail (and crows nest) keep running.
Awesome vid! I am planning to use my Pi2 as a home server and discovered this company and product line accidentally. I'm working on improving the support for CB1 and upstreaming some form of support for CB2 in Armbian. Excited to see how the community will grow around the board/module in the future!
Thanks for the video. I just picked up one of these for a new “rebuild” of one of my V1 MP3DP. I run a cb1 with EMMC on another printer and really like it more than the sd card!
I use my iPad Pro to control my printers since I bought the M8P v2 not knowing it doesn’t have an expansion port and only ribbon port. I couldn’t use my original display so I had to buy something for it bought an M5P and that uses the original display. But I can now monitor both from my iPad just fine. If I can find an adapter for the ribbon and expansion port that would be great
Thank you for another useful guide.
Do you have any tips for just an ethernet set up?
I want to use my printer in my camper and will not have a constant wifi SSID so I am thinking about connecting to a router via ethernet cable.
TIA
This was a fantastic guide, thank you! I managed to snag a Pad7 (w/o the CB1) and a CB2 for pretty cheap and this video was really helpful while I was setting it up.
@@dmmerson awesome! Glad to hear it 😊. Happy printing!!
root and root are always the first thing to try...
But thanks for the run through, adequately covered
I got the btt klipper pad last year and I still am having issues getting klipper up and running. It is my first time getting klipper working. I’m going to get it working this summer , hopefully. :)
As I’ve just gotten into 3D printing there is , needless to say, a ton of knowledge which I have yet to acquire. In the three weeks or so that I’ve owned a 3D printer, I’ve your channel is one of three that have become my go to place to learn what it is I’m doing wrong.
I purchased an Ender 3 (OG) on eBay for $80 delivered as part of “Brand New, but open box” special. Upon receiving the Ender, i immediately Upgraded the build surface to glass, added second stepper motor and Lead screw to the Z axis and moved to a hardened steel 0.6mm nozzle. All that aside, the issue I’m trying to validate is the fact that it seems to not have enough current to the stepper motors when prints require all of the motors to be commanded on for some of the really long and crazy print moves. It has the stock P.S. and the Creality 4.2.2 board. Is there any way to increase the current availability ? Any thoughts or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos. -Jason Burchell.
I ended up using an old phone I had laying around. Complete package with camera, build in led for lighting and touchscreen all in a nice package...
Setting it all up is a hassle though, but once I worked out all the funny business it really works fantastic.
Although I'm running both the octo4a app (for the serial driver) and a debian vm for klipper and moonraker etc. I'm still planning to port my klipper install to the alpine image octa4a is running to have just 1 app running... But since it's running fine the way it currently is, that's gonna be some rainy sunday in 2030 if ever 😅
I still look to some alternatives like sbc's but it gets expansive fast if you also have to factor in a camera and screen... Can't beat the price of an old phone gathering dust in a drawer somewhere... Heck, it might even make sence to buy a cheap phone second hand if you know what to look for...
I like it has eMMC, which brings a few perks to the table, especially since smaller builds it can be handy to go with one of these all in one boards like the Manta.
Foot print is definitely a factor for an all in one. I tried the CM4 with the E3EZ on stream a while back and I couldnt get the OS to work correctly. Ended up reverting to CB1.
Thx for a great video.. I battled so much with my Voron 2.4R2 build with Manta M8P and CM4 that I have up and it’s been sitting in my garage 90% complete for almost a year now😫
Hi, I bought the CB1 and realized that on heavy tasks such as input shipping, it really struggles to keep up. The recommended acceleration on the X axis never exceeded 2900/s, whereas when I use klipper on my minipc, I go up to 5500mm/s (I have a Cartesian printer), exactly in the same ADXL test conditions.
For this reason, I decided to go for the CB2.
Good video mate... As always. Thanks for the sharing. Really appreciate it. Just one thing that I liked as well... That ender 5 turned into merc1. That tool head... Love the small space it has... What is it? Belongs to the merc1 specs or is your own mod? Is there a good kit for merc1 or you did it all by yourself? Thanks for your knowledge share and all the help and contribution to 3d print world!
The one thing I gate about Big Tree Tech is that they always release a new hardware version right after I get the current version. Had I known about the CB2 coming out 2 months ago I would have waited as I just got 2 CB1 modules 2 months ago along with a Manta M5P for the Salad Fork I am build and a Manta M4P for the Enterwire conversion. For me, I don't car tomuch about "Crime Scene Investigation" support (LOL) but I'm sure people that wanted it are happy. Personally i never had any WiFi issues with the CB1. I really, rally hate that antennae connector. I always have issues connecting the antennae to it.
Nice to see the RK3566 out there doing more than powering a wave of mid range emulation handhelds. Not enough beef for something crazy like GameCube emulation, but they're reliable little chips. This seems like a great use for them.
OMG i've been going nuts trying to find a ribbon cable for display output since yesterday , probably why the spi 15 to 20 pin cable didn't work for me
4:03 It's funny how you said the connection could be spotty just as some spots shined over you SuperVinlin
THANKS A LOT! This is the easier tutorial to flash the firmware to eMMC
hello, I did everything, I have the green LED flashing from time to time but nothing in the IP connection...
Did you say you got CAN bus working on the CB2? I have not been able to get pass this with the PAD-7. Looking at sending these back to Amazon.
I've upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to an E3EZ motherboard with CB1 almost a year ago. I just learned that I was supposed to add an heatsink?? I don't use my printer that much but so far I've never seen it overheating tho (never hitting above 60°C). Maybe needed only in an enclosure? Or it's surprisingly very sensitive to temperature and I'm slowly killing it (please no)
Unless you're doing very long prints in an enclosure and cooking the board at 60-70-80 oC for long periods of time you shouldn't have to worry about it. Those heatsinks are mostly useful for very airflow-constrained cases to help a bit with convection but the chip should be able to dissipate most of the heat just by itself.
You should however have a fan blowing across the stepper drivers since they have to endure a lot more load, if you do any airflow from that should be plenty to cool the rest of the chips without any heatsinks. Only exception would be maybe if you attached like 2 or 3 cameras and the cb1 has to encode multiple streams, under those kind of loads you'd need a heatsink but mainsail by itself generates barely any load.
However adding heatsinks is always a good idea so if you can find the correct sized one I'd still recommend installing it.
Wait, the label at 0:55 says 2023.11.8 - did they heavily delay this?
You say that the new module has 2.4GHz and 5GHz WLAN. So i guess you should use the new antenna they provide, unless the old antenna was already a dual-band antenna. But i doubt they would have shipped a dual band antenna before, with a board that only supports 2.4GHz.
This is a really good point. They visibly looked the same to me but that doesnt mean they are.
@@ModBotArmy The antennas provided with my two CB2s are completely different than the ones on my CB1s. They are longer strips.
WiFi performance is still not great - it is able to achieve a 390Mbs data link on 5.xGHz out of the theoretically possible 433Mbps using a single RX/TX chain, despite being 2 meters from a 802.11af access point ("WiFi5")..
Testing with iperf3 towards a wired server in my network reveals an actual TCP throughput of 120~160Mbps but with a lot of retransmissions.
Bottom line - It's better than the CB1 (which wifi chipset was a bad joke), but nowhere near the performance and stability you can observe from a Pi CM4.
Do you mean that with the CB2 the start up time is still very long compared with the CB1?
@@Levisgil47 I wouldn't consider boot time to be very long - compared to the CB1 it’s faster in boot time and other tasks such as compiling firmware and creating input shaper graphs. Still, a CM4 is considerably faster than both boards.
I do have one question. I am thinking about buying the M5P for my Tronxy XY3SE.
I was thinking about stretching for those TMC5160 instead of the TMC2209s. Would it be worth it and are those compatible with this board?
I am hesitant to buy from BTT just because they can't answer questions, I just get, "best wishes". To be fair, Tronxy is just as abysmal. The Prusa looks better and better.
I have trouble changing the network details. I’ve even tried copy and pasting the network details from my windows network settings without success 😓
My Voron 2.4 with cb1 is a little laggy with some commands while printing like z offset or pause and usb camera will only run at 12fps but usually runs between 1fps-8fps.would upgrading to CB2 solve these issues.i am using ethernet to printer not WiFi
11:53 I think you mean deprecated instead of depreciated.
I have a CB1eMMC on a m5p and never had any wifi issues, either I got lucky or the eMMC variant is better…
Can I ask what the antenna standard/connector type is for the cb1/cb2? I suspect mine is borked, so while I upgrade to a CB2 for wifi 5 I may as well get a new antenna
The CB2 comes with an antenna as well. (Sorry if I didnt explain that) so you shouldnt need to buy one. I dont know the name of the specific form factor but it is the same as what an ESP32 would use or CM4. If you want a fancier option here is one from Adafruit for the CM4 www.adafruit.com/product/4793
These are just U.FL standard antenna connectors. If you search for u.FL or UFL you will find plenty of cables and connectors everywhere.
I’m trying to flash the image onto an SD card but get an error saying that “The writer process ended unexpectedly”. Is there a requirement on what sort of SD card is needed?
Ordered a cb2 last week, havent gotten the shipping confirmation yet, but I planned an entire build using a m8p, cb1 and tft50... needless to say, this is a more affordable choice to change. Also less headaache, trying ro get klipperscreen on an old fire tablet is... second rate
You're talking about being more affordable, then you knock the truly affordable option. It's far from second rate, it's useful for a lot of people, and getting it running you keep your mind active and god forbid you learn something new in the process. Or even better yet just because something isn't plug and play doesn't mean that it isn't a good choice or is second rate to the aforementioned option. You should humble yourself, you may learn something in the process
Oh. Please forgive me for not being humble enough for you. Did I spend your money to get the parts I ordered to work? No? Okay. Then zip it pal. Not everyone is Linux/python 3 experts, some of us are doing this... *GASP* as a HOBBY... kindly get off your high horse there keyboard warrior. Unless you're willing to be patient enough to help a guy that works full time and tries to squeeze in building a printer on the side then please... 'humble' yourself.
Since you have done a mks skipr, it would be nice to know how they compare.
please do a video on CM1, I was able to get one in uk...
What big tree tech board do I need to get for an ender 5 plus? I have an skr mini will it work . I want to get around using a pi since they are now close to $80
Great videos as always!
Mine gets stuck on the counting files...few seconds. It's been quite a few seconds how long should i be waiting for?
How does its performance compare against the Pi4/cm4 and pi3b?
why use it over cm4?
How does it compare with a cm4 2gb ram version?
I really love the onboard CAN and screw terminal variable voltage power input. Regular Pi power supply requirements are getting insane.
With all the auto tech being adopted by 3D printers, I think automotive Ethernet would be the next awesome one. Just 2 wires, much lower latency than regular Ethernet, slightly higher throughput for a given MHz rating and 100baseT1 transceivers are coming down in price.
Ahh you mean going with the BTT Pi or the PI4B adapter with the CM module. Thats a really good point. If your controller doesnt have CAN bridge then its nice to have it and I agree not needing a buck converter or separate PSU is great. Some of the controllers due have the ability to power the PI directly. I have done it at least once or twice but i have heard it can be hit or miss with low voltage issues.
you weren't limited to hdmi with cbi, it also accepts spi screen like their tft 35 which I am using ;)
Ahh this is true. I forgot about that. It wasnt available when I first covered the CB1. I think I ordered on at one point lol. I gotta look through my parts.
@@ModBotArmy yeah it only got supported with cb1 revision, that is true :)
What Quality are you able to run your webcam with the cb2? Because I had heard that was a bit of an issue with the cb1 and was wondering if it is worth upgrading from the cb1 in the Formbot Voron Kit that I might soon buy.
Uh, just bought CB1 with manta m8p v2. I should have seen this video earlier. : (
Will this help the performance of the BTT PAD7?
I'd like to know as well.
I did install a 2GB CM4 in my Pad 7 and it worked very well, but there aren't any overlays available for the LEDs on the front of the Pad 7 and I couldn't get the adxl working.
Ended up reverting to the CB1. Adxl still won't work though...I may have broken it.
Waiting for BTT to release the Pad 7 CB2 heatsink so I can order them together.
Well, you got lucky to make the video after version 1.0.4 was released
I got a couple Pi 2s to replace my Orange Pi Zeroes (wifi disconnecting every couple of days was already getting tobñ my nerves, qnd the additional USB ports are a plus), but back then vereion 1.0.3 was out and no CH341 drivers were installed so connecting the printer through USB was not possible (a kind user compiled the drivers to install them on the issue rhat was created, afterwards version 1.0.4 was released with the drivers included... Gotta say that was a big blunder on BTTs side)
Big oof. I did see mention of a driver when looking at the releases. I don’t know how they wouldn’t have caught that. 😅
I think I'd rather wait for CM5. For better support. I use currently CB1 with armbian because of old kernel in original OS build. Works ok but yeah... sometime wifi interface just dont show up other than that its ok. But i want to use better camera so CSI is only option. USB cams are just bad and good ones are expensive.
Has there been any word on when CM5 may be releasing?
Eemc failure leaves you without a board. At least if an sd card fails you can get a replacement one for almost nothing
love to see the omnifixo
It’s so good!!
at 11:54 you say “Depreciated” when i believe the word you were looking for was “Deprecated” It took me wayyyyy too long to ever realize these were different words…
Hope this helps
This is a common mistake, but it still bugs the crap out of me
Meanwhile Radxa rock cm3 was available when CM4 shortage occured
Classic BTT. Never buy v1 of anything they release. wait for v2. CB2 is a prime example of this rule...
Nice flex on us with that .08 bed mesh 😂 btw is that an orbiter v3.0? I haven’t seen any videos on it yet and I’m wondering if it’s a 👍🏼 or 👎🏼
The login for the minimal install is root
oot fyi =)
The main advantage of the CB1 was price. Now this is only $10 less than the comparable genuine pi. Not worthwhile as far as I can see.
The other advantage was availability. In many markets getting R.Pi was an expensive pain when you could find them
@Kathdath that was true for a while but pis are now widely available again
Still do not understand the actual point of CB2, when CM4 is so readily available at a good price.
CB2 is less expensive and does the same thing. No reason not to unless you have brand loyalty. I admit I’m sometimes guilty of brand loyalty myself.
Cheaper, and was easier find stock for quite while
@@chrisward8521 The support is what you need to worry about. Is BTT (or anyone?) contributing upstream code for the CM1's AllWinner chip? Probably not, so really, your only option is the image that comes from BTT. The Rockchips are a little better, but there's generally not very good driver support for Linux on these. BTT has already had a bunch of firmware gaffes that have caused WiFi not to work on some boards, and bad passwords on others. BTT (and most Chinese OEMs when it comes to small ARM SBCs) don't seem to care after the thing ships. Knowing that a Raspberry Pi will get the updates required if an issue arises and that there are quality alternative OS's that can run on it is worth the extra $5-10 for me.
Cb2 has better hardware.
First view lol
First :D