Thanks for the update cuz! Appreciate the little blower tip. So, my final question: What is the advantage of painting on the pro flex on basically the whole back of the case? Would it not just be easier to apply the pro flex to the seams where you make the cuts? If its just overkill, I get it. Thanks again!!
Yes please answer his question about if it would be okay to just to put the pro flex in the seams. Btw thank you for the finished video of what it looked like.
hmmm, well I suppose it is just overkill, my thought is that IF it didn't seal 10000% to that seam that it may leak a little air out the side, so i guess it was just to double triple quad pack the stuff on. ON THE FIRST ONE i just kept working it on there, but with the second method (epoxy mix) i suppose that while curing and drying each layer it'd be easier to ensure a tight seal on just the seams without slopping the whole thing up, true...
Thank you for your fast responses and also adding the other video showing the mastic dried up. I thought you where kidding about the mustache duct when you said it is 37% better since your name is mustacheologist lmfao
I just take the piece I cut out to get at it, and put it back with a bead of 100% silicon around the edge and push it into place. If you cut the piece out and do a good job, it will fit right back like normal and look normal except for the bead of silicon around the edge/cut. Thanks for the video. This saves huge huge work believe me. And you can do the same thing on rear AC units on Suburban's, etc. to get to the expansion valve, and then silicon the piece you cut out right back on. 100% silicon clear is the strongest silicon. Colored silicon will work if it's 100%. All other silicon's I do not recommend especially paintable window silicon, it won't work. It takes 24 hours for silicon to cure totally. You can also cut into the trunk floor if there is no access panel to get at a fuel sending unit for dash gage. Eliminates taking the gas tank out.
This video is very helpful but slightly misleading. It does not show that the cut he initially made on the side closest to the passenger door was later expanded about an inch further to the right. In other words, do not make the far right cut where the video shows, instead make it roughly 1" further to the right. You can see where the cut should be at 1:52. Also, I like to leave a slightly larger bottom lip than the video shows, maybe 1/2". There is a lot of condensation created inside this compartment and too low of a cut will allow water to drip inside the cabin (assuming a watertight seal was not created when resealing the cut plastic) rather than through the firewall drip tube. I scuff up the shiny black plastic with some 80grit to take the shine off, then use a good quality duct tape to seal everything up. I don't use epoxy, mastic, or anything other than duct tape, and have never had a leak in 4 years. It's not imperative that it''s 100% air tight, but do a good job. Also take your time installing the new evap coil, it could take 20 minutes plus. I make a horizontal relief cut about 2" deep on each side of the bottom plastic to allow me to flex the plastic downwards a bit so the coil will slide in easier.
Yep.... I am now STUCK at about 3:25.... and 4:05 moustache just shows it magically removed... I have given up for the night, it seems impossible to get it out....
@@johnmalm6433 you’ve taken the nuts off on the engine side of the firewall, right? If so, it’s a matter of pulling. Nothing is holding it on other than friction and getting the right angle.
Great video! Got quoted a bundle to replace the evaporator core in my 2006 Yukon Xl Denali with 300K miles. I'm following your lead on this. Hope it goes as well for me. Do you have a video for replacing the HEATER CORE as well? Might not be a bad Idea to do both at the same time? Thanks again!!!!
Don't be fooled. When someone pauses a video like when he pulled the old one out then all of a sudden it was out and laying on the ground. Well there is a reason for that. He didnt want to show you what he broke getting it out. When your ready to pull it you have to cut the tube bend it down, then go under the hood and stick a big screw driver in the firewall and bend down the front of the evap core where the hoses bolt up. Then it will slide out without braking the evap box inside. Use aluminum tape to put it back together with some spray foam. Probably dont even need the foam because the tape is that good.
@@Mustacheologist ok, HOW did you do it then??? I am stuck at 3:25 on your video... I suspect he is correct and you have to stick something thru the firewall to bend the flange down to get it out....
Hello Mustacheologist. I have watched a couple of these videos and have decided to do replace my evaporator using your method. I have a 2005 Avalanche and have already removed the glove compartment and cut that cross bar. The plastic housing that you cut to reveal the evap core inside looks EXACTLY like the one on my Avalanche. So that's good. There are still a couple of things preventing me from taking the final plunge. The first is the problem you had removing the evaporator from the housing. I really wish you had shown how you did that. Can you please explain a little more what you had to do to get it out. It looks like the "lip" on the old evap was bent downward cracking the top of the old evaporator; I know that cracking the old part does not matter, but how did you bend the lip down? By banging on it with that round piece of wood you stuck in through the front? What do you think of cutting that tube (the one visible through the cut that makes a "U") just past the "U" so that the straight tube will bend more easily? Also, there is a seal/grommet/gasket between or around the firewall and/or the lip. how exactly is that installed in there? Does it stay in place when the evaporator is removed? I am concerned about sticking something through that hole to bang on the evaporator lip and in the process damaging the gasket/grommet thing so that it doesn't make a seal between the evaporator and the firewall. Did you evacuate the system before starting to cut the plastic?
They are double threaded. Have to use the nuts you used from the old one. Some evap cores will come with new bolts some you can use existing. Once you break the seal, lube o-rings, then slide over the 2xside pins. Does this answer help? If not hit me up..
And the air bag pop's out of the dash upon impact killing the passenger, because it was the easy way removing all of the dashes structure integrity to do a job that would have been done properly in the same amount of time. Not like it wasn't engineered by say engineers for a reason.
@@Mustacheologist thats exactly why your not an engineer. You have no idea how structure plays a part in how things function. Hey folks today we are going to see another backwoods louie episode of how to do it wrong.
Mustacheologist I am not trying to get in a pissing contest with you I am simply saying the reason a dash has that structure is because when your involved in an accident that structure takes the back pressure of the air bag and it requires the steel frame in its integrity to be able not only to take the pressure but also project the air bag properly. Believe me is it a total pain in the ass changing one little thing under a dash that’s up in there, he’ll yes it is, but generally the dash is held in with two huge bolts on each side you can loosen one side take the other bolts out and walla.
That's the thing. There is no 'you just a, b, c, and presto'. There is just pay $1500 for a team of guys with professional tools to do it over an entire day, or, cut this unimportant non-structural piece of metal that serves only to screw 1 of 3 bottom screws of the glovebox and go in yourself. I dont work for chevy, am not a mechanic, and make no claims that I am. I am also not in a piss contest, I just think you can take the evidence of this video and apply it to whatever reasoning you come up with to make your own informed decisions.
I think this would depend on if your avalanche has the custom center console or not. There are 2 different Evap core models, my front row is 2 seater, not 3.
Im doing the same job now just waiting on my evaporator to arrive today. Does the mastic bond to plastc well? Ive read some forums and they say it does not bond to plastic well at all. Any advise appreciated!
Andrew Janik bro on my 2nd truck same repair I mixed a basic epoxy with a small portion of mastic.. Mix with an epoxy and paint it on with a paintbrush while you are blasting it with a fan/leaf blower. It paints on like friggin rhinocoating.. peeeaaacccee
i have a 2000 chevy 1500 4.3 I recently put a new AC compressor and a new AC condenser so go head an put one freon bottle 12oz and it trolls a little bit cold then I put a second can and it starts blowing hot air and the pressure high pressure gauges goes all the way onto the red life if I would have put my daughter Freedom by knowing just one or two cans I'm thinking is evaporator cuz I already clean the hoses and everything help
the job can be done in around 4 hours start to finish by any legt shop without cutting and hacking. there is always a easier way but that doesnt make it right .its his truck to do what he wants. my customers would want it done correctly. 550.00 including parts
So does anyone have newer model, mines a 97, that has the reinforcement bar, Item 2 in this dash parts link .www.mygmpartsstore.com/a/Chevrolet__C1500/_51498_5953424/INSTRUMENT-PANEL/GH95144.html I don't want to cut that(I guess I could cut it and then maybe reattach it using a larger or smaller diameter pipe) but wondering if I could just unbolt it and pull it out of the way and then cut the other parts of the dash panel like Mustacheologist did. Also read one guy that did it this way the new evaporator started leaking and then he cut through the engine bay side! So I was wondering if anyone had another way to reattach the chunk you cut out of the side of the air box that wasn't quite so permanent. Like maybe tape it with foil duct tape then a couple metal straps screwed into the air box to hold it a bit more firmly. Although seem like you could cut through the proflex as easy as the plastic box.
Dude, please show us the the finished product. Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/pWwF2PJIDM8/v-deo.html
Thanks for the update cuz! Appreciate the little blower tip. So, my final question: What is the advantage of painting on the pro flex on basically the whole back of the case? Would it not just be easier to apply the pro flex to the seams where you make the cuts? If its just overkill, I get it. Thanks again!!
Yes please answer his question about if it would be okay to just to put the pro flex in the seams. Btw thank you for the finished video of what it looked like.
hmmm, well I suppose it is just overkill, my thought is that IF it didn't seal 10000% to that seam that it may leak a little air out the side, so i guess it was just to double triple quad pack the stuff on. ON THE FIRST ONE i just kept working it on there, but with the second method (epoxy mix) i suppose that while curing and drying each layer it'd be easier to ensure a tight seal on just the seams without slopping the whole thing up, true...
Thank you for your fast responses and also adding the other video showing the mastic dried up. I thought you where kidding about the mustache duct when you said it is 37% better since your name is mustacheologist lmfao
I did this on my 02.worked perfectly.I plastic welded mine.Looks pretty good
I just take the piece I cut out to get at it, and put it back with a bead of 100% silicon around the edge and push it into place. If you cut the piece out and do a good job, it will fit right back like normal and look normal except for the bead of silicon around the edge/cut. Thanks for the video. This saves huge huge work believe me. And you can do the same thing on rear AC units on Suburban's, etc. to get to the expansion valve, and then silicon the piece you cut out right back on. 100% silicon clear is the strongest silicon. Colored silicon will work if it's 100%. All other silicon's I do not recommend especially paintable window silicon, it won't work. It takes 24 hours for silicon to cure totally. You can also cut into the trunk floor if there is no access panel to get at a fuel sending unit for dash gage. Eliminates taking the gas tank out.
It takes smart people like you to tell how we are all getting ripped by repair shops DIY heaven is only paying for the part!
This video is very helpful but slightly misleading. It does not show that the cut he initially made on the side closest to the passenger door was later expanded about an inch further to the right. In other words, do not make the far right cut where the video shows, instead make it roughly 1" further to the right. You can see where the cut should be at 1:52. Also, I like to leave a slightly larger bottom lip than the video shows, maybe 1/2". There is a lot of condensation created inside this compartment and too low of a cut will allow water to drip inside the cabin (assuming a watertight seal was not created when resealing the cut plastic) rather than through the firewall drip tube. I scuff up the shiny black plastic with some 80grit to take the shine off, then use a good quality duct tape to seal everything up. I don't use epoxy, mastic, or anything other than duct tape, and have never had a leak in 4 years. It's not imperative that it''s 100% air tight, but do a good job. Also take your time installing the new evap coil, it could take 20 minutes plus. I make a horizontal relief cut about 2" deep on each side of the bottom plastic to allow me to flex the plastic downwards a bit so the coil will slide in easier.
Yep.... I am now STUCK at about 3:25.... and 4:05 moustache just shows it magically removed... I have given up for the night, it seems impossible to get it out....
@@johnmalm6433 it can be frustrating. If you’ve made the cuts in the right place, it will come out with patience.
@@James-fv2od I am right where you were at 3:25... cannot get it out....
@@johnmalm6433 you’ve taken the nuts off on the engine side of the firewall, right? If so, it’s a matter of pulling. Nothing is holding it on other than friction and getting the right angle.
@@James-fv2od Oh yea, I can pull it about 2 inches til it almost hits the metal bar, just like you have it at 3:25.... but I cannot get past that....
I used my hot glue gun to put the panel back on with no tape
Great video! Got quoted a bundle to replace the evaporator core in my 2006 Yukon Xl Denali with 300K miles. I'm following your lead on this. Hope it goes as well for me. Do you have a video for replacing the HEATER CORE as well? Might not be a bad Idea to do both at the same time? Thanks again!!!!
Perfect. Saved me over $1,500.
Does that work the same way with the Heater Core ?
No that’s actually behind the dash
Will you resolve maybe the syrup smell when turning the heater on. ? With the AC it don't seem to smell
HA! That's funny you mention syrup smell. I have been smelling that for years and never knew what that was, and now I know it's my evap leaking.
Can I do this for my heater core also? 02 chevy.
I was impressed with the work until I seen the end. 🤣 a bead of ULTRA BLACK silicone would probably do the job..
Don't be fooled. When someone pauses a video like when he pulled the old one out then all of a sudden it was out and laying on the ground. Well there is a reason for that. He didnt want to show you what he broke getting it out. When your ready to pull it you have to cut the tube bend it down, then go under the hood and stick a big screw driver in the firewall and bend down the front of the evap core where the hoses bolt up. Then it will slide out without braking the evap box inside. Use aluminum tape to put it back together with some spray foam. Probably dont even need the foam because the tape is that good.
No one is tricking anyone lol! its 1 extra inch of cutting :eyeroll: nothing "broke getting it out"
Yeah just did it on my duramax It was hard af to get out that flange was higher than the molded parts in the box
Did he even have all the bolts out first !
@@Mustacheologist ok, HOW did you do it then??? I am stuck at 3:25 on your video... I suspect he is correct and you have to stick something thru the firewall to bend the flange down to get it out....
@@johnmalm6433 yea I rolled it forward to pull it back. There is a lip on that plastic but. I cut it off.
Good music and straight to the point 👍🏼
Any possibility of getting to the heater core using this method?
It's to the right of the evap core so you'd have to cut the other side as well!
Mustache I have a question ?
When do you know or how do you know when is time to replace the piece? Thanks
On my case, ac wasn’t cooling. Filled the sistem with gas and worked only for a week. There were no leaks.
Oh I like this solution.
Marianne Oprisko please do mix the mastic with epoxy and paintbrush it on for an armor like coating
ua-cam.com/video/pWwF2PJIDM8/v-deo.html
Hello Mustacheologist. I have watched a couple of these videos and have decided to do replace my evaporator using your method. I have a 2005 Avalanche and have already removed the glove compartment and cut that cross bar. The plastic housing that you cut to reveal the evap core inside looks EXACTLY like the one on my Avalanche. So that's good. There are still a couple of things preventing me from taking the final plunge. The first is the problem you had removing the evaporator from the housing. I really wish you had shown how you did that. Can you please explain a little more what you had to do to get it out. It looks like the "lip" on the old evap was bent downward cracking the top of the old evaporator; I know that cracking the old part does not matter, but how did you bend the lip down? By banging on it with that round piece of wood you stuck in through the front? What do you think of cutting that tube (the one visible through the cut that makes a "U") just past the "U" so that the straight tube will bend more easily? Also, there is a seal/grommet/gasket between or around the firewall and/or the lip. how exactly is that installed in there? Does it stay in place when the evaporator is removed? I am concerned about sticking something through that hole to bang on the evaporator lip and in the process damaging the gasket/grommet thing so that it doesn't make a seal between the evaporator and the firewall. Did you evacuate the system before starting to cut the plastic?
The ending Its hilarious
That's crazy
How did you install the screws onto the new evaporator ?
They are double threaded. Have to use the nuts you used from the old one. Some evap cores will come with new bolts some you can use existing. Once you break the seal, lube o-rings, then slide over the 2xside pins.
Does this answer help? If not hit me up..
Mustacheologist yeah thanks
And the air bag pop's out of the dash upon impact killing the passenger, because it was the easy way removing all of the dashes structure integrity to do a job that would have been done properly in the same amount of time. Not like it wasn't engineered by say engineers for a reason.
@@Mustacheologist thats exactly why your not an engineer. You have no idea how structure plays a part in how things function. Hey folks today we are going to see another backwoods louie episode of how to do it wrong.
@@TheCarterHour aren't the "airbags [supposed to] deploy on impact"??
Mustacheologist I am not trying to get in a pissing contest with you I am simply saying the reason a dash has that structure is because when your involved in an accident that structure takes the back pressure of the air bag and it requires the steel frame in its integrity to be able not only to take the pressure but also project the air bag properly. Believe me is it a total pain in the ass changing one little thing under a dash that’s up in there, he’ll yes it is, but generally the dash is held in with two huge bolts on each side you can loosen one side take the other bolts out and walla.
That's the thing. There is no 'you just a, b, c, and presto'. There is just pay $1500 for a team of guys with professional tools to do it over an entire day, or, cut this unimportant non-structural piece of metal that serves only to screw 1 of 3 bottom screws of the glovebox and go in yourself.
I dont work for chevy, am not a mechanic, and make no claims that I am. I am also not in a piss contest, I just think you can take the evidence of this video and apply it to whatever reasoning you come up with to make your own informed decisions.
Part number for evaporator??
Ha try that with the heater core.
What about the ones that has cabin air filters ??
None of the 2003's from what I understand had them.
Mustacheologist I have a 99 Silverado 1500 those models go from 99-02
Yes please add a picture of the after. Also is this where the evaporator core is for the Chevy avalanche 03
I think this would depend on if your avalanche has the custom center console or not. There are 2 different Evap core models, my front row is 2 seater, not 3.
Mine is a two seater with console in the middle
I suspect it is the same, but please refer to an Avalanche part list to pinpoint if this is the same.
it should be same for all tahoe suburban silverado avalanche and whatnot of this size per each year. this style is the 2001-2006...
Thank for replying I appreciate it. Please post after pic of the duct sealant dried up
Im doing the same job now just waiting on my evaporator to arrive today. Does the mastic bond to plastc well? Ive read some forums and they say it does not bond to plastic well at all. Any advise appreciated!
Andrew Janik bro on my 2nd truck same repair I mixed a basic epoxy with a small portion of mastic.. Mix with an epoxy and paint it on with a paintbrush while you are blasting it with a fan/leaf blower. It paints on like friggin rhinocoating.. peeeaaacccee
Sounds whatever but instantly cured and was solid. She is cold as ice not one drip
i have a 2000 chevy 1500 4.3 I recently put a new AC compressor and a new AC condenser so go head an put one freon bottle 12oz and it trolls a little bit cold then I put a second can and it starts blowing hot air and the pressure high pressure gauges goes all the way onto the red life if I would have put my daughter Freedom by knowing just one or two cans I'm thinking is evaporator cuz I already clean the hoses and everything help
Is it just those two bolts and thats it ?
From in front of the firewall to the aluminum oval, yes. Just those 2.
Ahh, the duct butter, we call it pookie in the hvac world
Beautiful job. Do you take medication right????????
the job can be done in around 4 hours start to finish by any legt shop without cutting and hacking. there is always a easier way but that doesnt make it right .its his truck to do what he wants. my customers would want it done correctly. 550.00 including parts
Word Ken drop a business card so I can have your shop swap an evap core for under $600
Nobody could do this in just 4 hours, not a chance.
It can be done. Worked with a guy that could do it in almost 4 hours. It's all about experience.
How you come just don’t unscrew that box cover
Because it's the width of the entire dash
Omg it gets worse and worse as the video goes😂😂
So does anyone have newer model, mines a 97, that has the reinforcement bar, Item 2 in this dash parts link .www.mygmpartsstore.com/a/Chevrolet__C1500/_51498_5953424/INSTRUMENT-PANEL/GH95144.html
I don't want to cut that(I guess I could cut it and then maybe reattach it using a larger or smaller diameter pipe) but wondering if I could just unbolt it and pull it out of the way and then cut the other parts of the dash panel like Mustacheologist did.
Also read one guy that did it this way the new evaporator started leaking and then he cut through the engine bay side! So I was wondering if anyone had another way to reattach the chunk you cut out of the side of the air box that wasn't quite so permanent. Like maybe tape it with foil duct tape then a couple metal straps screwed into the air box to hold it a bit more firmly. Although seem like you could cut through the proflex as easy as the plastic box.
Guy put pookie on his car lmao
Hope you never have to remove it again...
Foreal, no love for the man.
Shur tape and Nashua tape.
I would rather pay to have it done right,,,,,do you do bondo to
Nasty