I bought one at an antique shop in great condition . I was watching the video and realized that the rare lens you spoke about at 8:20 is the one that I have just without the extra filter lens. Who would’ve thought huh😃 Thanks you for showing me how to properly use this camera.☺️🙏🏾
You can use any film just so long as it is 35mm also known as 135 There is a wide choice of both new and expired film in black and white, colour negative and colour transparency (slide film) Find one that you like and have fun, any problems please come back to me..
The Photographer's Bag How do I know the camera is working or if the batteries need to be replaced? Is there a click or specific light I’m looking for?
Hi, the camera will function without a battery as the shutter is totally mechanical and the aperture can be set manually, you can use an external light meter or an app on your phone, the sunny 16 rule also works The battery only powers the meter and enables the camera to work in shutter priority whereby you select the shutter speed and the camera will set the correct aperture on the lens automatically There is a display in the viewfinder with an aperture scale and a needle, the red sector at the tip shows over exposure and the red at the bottom is underexposure, if the needle is moving when you change the shutter speed then all should be good if the camera is working properly Link below to instruction manual www.butkus.org/chinon/konica/konica_autoreflex_tc/autoreflex_tc-splash.htm
Another great video. This was the second camera I ever bought (first was a Zenith E). Couldn't get on with TC shutter priority so used it in manual, a great improvement however on the Zenith. Eventually got rid of it. Bought one recently with the 40mm and added a 50mm 1.7. Then 2 weeks ago came across a TC-X at a car boot sale. £1 and uses an AAA battery to power the meter. Plastic fantastic camera but think it was the first SLR to have DX coding.
I love Konica cameras, and especially the Hexanon lenses, a working TC-X at that price is amazing and the lenses are so cheap, I have some Zenith's but got the ST901, much better, I hated the M42 mount!
I had this camera and didn't liked it. The good part is it's entirely manual (exc for the meter). The light meter needle is hard to read, and I had problems with the shutter and the reload mechanism. The camera also felt too heavy. Now I have the FC-1 which has electronic shutter. It feels more natural, has LED meter, and it's easier to use overall. On the downside, it needs silver oxide batteries which can be replaced with 1.5v alkaline LR44, it will slightly affect the meter reading but not by much
Thanks for the video. I've got my father's TC and struggling to get the hang of it. Is it possible to take a look at what you've taken with that VX? many thanks in advance!
Hi, one of my favourites, I don't actually show my work as I am a rubbish photographer, more of an equipment geek, I have started to upload images to my Instagram account, thephotographersbag, but alas I did not actually shoot the film in this instance, however a quick search on Flickr will hopefully suffice www.flickr.com/photos/tags/konica%20autoreflex%20tc/ Rest assured I will upload my stuff when I revisit the camera.....
Hello, thank you for the video. Recently purchased one and the film advance lever is stuck. Any advice? I can’t find another video that addresses this for this specific camera. Thanks!
Hi, sorry to hear that, these cameras have a mechanical shutter and it sounds like a jammed one, was it like this when you got it and was it advertised as working...in this case you should seek to return it To repair it, will involve taking the camera apart, not an easy task though there are several instructions available on line Check the shutter curtains to make sure they are intact and in the right place, they need to be undamaged, next I would remove the bottom covet and have a look at the mechanism, the top cover would be next but they are a horrible job If you like sent me some pictures to my email, thephotographersbag@gmail.com Showing the shutter and wind on lever....
I actually managed to “fix” it by winding the film back into the canister. The film is probably all ruined as I had around 4 shots left and the roll got exposed, but at least the level is no longer stuck... hoping next time it won’t happen, perhaps I should’ve been more careful loading. Thank you so much for your help! Very appreciated.
Hi, no there is no illumination in the viewfinder, just a scale of aperture numbers on the right hand side, with the lens set to the AE setting,the needle in the viewfinder should move as you change the selected shutter speed, can be hard to see the scale in poor light....does this help?
@@pinklemonade6597 it's great that your camera is working, was worried that you had a non functional one, though they will work without batteries in manual mode, time to get some pictures taken😃
Just bought this camera, seems very solid, looking forward to getting my first rolls developed! Unfortunatley the lightmeter doesn’t work though, any ideas on how to fix it, or is that a lost cause?
Hi, the camera is totally mechanical and can operate without a battery, the battery is the first thing to check and ideally replace, it is worth checking for corrosion in the battery compartment, any sort of white or green powdery substance should be removed, use vinegar on a qtip or cotton bud to gently remove it and clean up the contacts It is possible that the corrosion has worked up through the wiring and this situation would require disassembly and replacing the affected wires, push comes to shove, download a light meter app for your mobile phone or use the sunny sixteen rule, it's worth checking the camera light seals around the back door and the mirror damper just above the mirror, these usually need replacement as over time they turn into a sticky gue, any problems please come back to me.....
The Photographer's Bag It suddenly startet working! After testing it with no luck i ended up leaving the batteries in. A couple of days later when started using it i noticed the needle moving! I am using 1,5V batteries though because i cant find 1,35V batteries, so i’ll have to account for that. That will cause the camera to overexpose right? So i’ll have to counter by underexposing one stop maybe
Hi, that's great news and yes you can adjust the exposure to compensate, I usually don't bother as the difference is small and has little affect with black and white film, different if shooting colour transparency film, trial and error, experimentation till you get the results you want, compare the cameras meter to, say, an app on your phone...please let me know how you get on, real fan of these cameras and especially the lenses, very high quality at affordable prices...
@@AimingBadger you can get zinc-air coin cell batteries made for hearing aids that are 1.35 volts. little pricey but its the only true replacement for the originals and they are fairly readily available
@@AimingBadger I've refurbished a number of TCs and this has happened to me more than once - a dead meter starts working suddenly Just some "exercise" for these older cameras can sometimes bring them back to life. But..... Clean those contacts in the battery compartment nonetheless. I use the zinc-air hearing aid batteries like @gummy suggested.
I just got this as a gift. When I take a picture the mirror appears to get stuck and doesnt come back down ready for me to see through the view finder and take another image. Any suggestions! thank you
Hi, this camera has a mechanical shutter, the battery powers the meter, it can be used with a "dead" battery Is the mirror stuck to the mirror damping phone, easily happens if the foam has deteriorated? Is the shutter stuck open? Can you use the film advance lever? Come back to me and we'll see what can be done, are you handy with a small screwdriver?
Good camera, the only problem is the even more limited shutter speed choices. Even when you're coming from digital where the shutter speed choice is practically unlimited having 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500 and 1000 can seem very limiting but especially considering the Autoreflex T4 this camera sat alongside. I would own one, but only as a cheap and light field camera that I didn't mind getting dropped, dented, or scratched.
I don't really like shutter priority cameras but this was a time of mechanical shutters, a lot of photographers did not trust cameras with electronics and a standard range of shutter speeds was the accepted norm, with the introduction of electronic shutters, especially stepless ones as in the Olympus OM-2, more options like aperture priority became possible The TC was an entry level camera, the T4 was a tip of the line camera, the Hexanon lenses were the real quality items, I use a T3n for my Hexanon glass, Konica are a bit of a hidden gem and so affordable, lenses are cheap too as they don't adapt well to DSLRs due to the flange distance,do you shoot Konica?
@@thephotographersbag I own and use a Konica FS-1 at the moment and it's one of the most satisfying cameras you could own. It's still quite a simple camera with manual winder reverse and manual focus, but the electronic shutter is one of the most satisfying sounds you will hear from a camera of this era. If you thought the thwack of a shutter on an Autoreflex was satisfying, listen to the noise of the motor drive and electronic shutter in the FS-1. Most people are suspicious of electronic cameras of this era. There was also a reason with the Konica electronic cameras of this era though. Unlike the Canon or Nikon electronic cameras they don't have a method to detect under voltage and so people simply burn them out by using flat batteries. If you get a Canon or Nikon electronic camera from this era it should pop the fuse if you use it with flat batteries. With the Konica FS-1 and FT-1 the camera's shutter will simply get stuck in the last place it landed before it ran out of power. I have a couple of FT-1s like this... I didn't break them, but I also don't have the parts to fix them anymore. I have one that looks like it's mirror is locked up, but it simply died there because the last owner left dead batteries in it. As a note: You should not use an alkaline battery today in one of these cameras, or any electronic camera from the 1970s through 1990s. You should use one of the more expensive silver oxide "industrial," "military" or "camera" grade batteries. The terms are interchangeable. It's the name for silver oxide AA or AAA batteries that hold the same charge on the first and last shot. Or at the least if you are going to use Alkalines you should change them regularly and remember to take them out of the camera if you're not going to use them for a while. The biggest problem with these electronic cameras is not the camera itself but the user who is abusing his tools. Like a carpenter who tries to use his hammer to nail a nail into a piece of steel. If you're sill managing to destroy electronic cameras you don't have much else to blame other than yourself.
@@orestes1984 thanks for your valuable contribution and excellent advice, dead batteries in flashguns,winders etc is my biggest grip, have just repaired an Olympus Winder 2 that had bad corrosion from leaking batteries,I hope you stick about and subscribe, your knowledge will be a big help to those just starting out with film photography, Konica is a great starter brand, better value than the likes of the AE-1 or K1000.....
@@thephotographersbag Konica and Minolta, as individual brands but not combined with the MD and AR mount cameras made some of the most underrated cameras in the world. The real secret is that Hexanon and Minolta MD lenses are often sharper than Nikon and Canon lenses. It's just really whether you need a shutter speed faster than 1/1000 or if you want auto-focus. Otherwise in 99% of the cases Konica and Minolta cameras are just as good. I use them simply because they're cheap and I don't feel like paying the Canon/Nikon tax. Sorry to hear about the battery corrosion it's really annoying me also at the moment.
Hi, this camera takes 35mm film, sometimes referred to as 135 film. It is available in black&white, colour negative and colour positive which is often called transparency film. It comes it 24 or 26 exposure sizes and a variety of film speeds or sensitivity, I would suggest a speed rating of ISO 400 to start with, either HP5+ for b+w, or Kodak for color negatives, any problems please come back....
I've been looking for a nice Konica, but nearly every one I've found for sale is barely above the "Spare Parts" category! Some advertised on Ebay are filthy and covered in dings, dents, scratches, etc. You would think anyone wanting to sell a "Classic" or "Vintage" camera would at least blow the dust off of it? But no! Check out the photos. Some are absolutely filthy. If I can find one in excellent condition, I'd pay TOP DOLLAR for it. My Nikon FM2n took several months of searching to find. But now I have one in near New condition that will last me for decades. And my Nikon FE is almost as good. But some of the off brands? Well.......I'll keep searching!
Hi, ASA is an old abbreviation for what we call ISO nowadays, the two are the same, it tells you the sensitivity of the film, a low number indicates low sensitivity and a higher number indicated a high sensitivity, ISO 400 is a popular film speed for both black and white or colour photography, setting the film speed on the camera enables it to calculate the correct amount of light to reach the film and create correct "exposure", this camera has an automatic function so all you have to do is select the shutter speed,(length of time the film is exposed) and the camera will calculate and set the lens aperture to the required setting, ( called the f stop), I hope this helps a bit and any if any clarification needed please feel free to come back to me.....
@@chili0112 People complain that these are "plastic" but the only plastic is the top cap (on all) and the bottom cap (on later versions). Everything else is metal. They are compact but lighter than the all metal cameras of their time. I've had many TCs and T4s come across my workbench and only ONE has ever shown damage on the plastics used, and it was just a hairline crack on a top corner that was inconsequential. They're far more durable than they look.
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience, I am a big fan of Konica cameras and have several TCs and others, the lenses are outstanding and build quality was top notch, I don't understand why they seem so undesirable.....
@@thephotographersbag They've just been forgotten to time. No new shooters recognize Konica as a photography brand today, so they've nothing to base it on at first glance. It's like everything... the "winners" re-write the history. I'm betting it could change in time though, especially as the Nikon/Canon/Contax/etc stuff is all bought up and inflated (as it's already become).
I bought one at an antique shop in great condition . I was watching the video and realized that the rare lens you spoke about at 8:20 is the one that I have just without the extra filter lens. Who would’ve thought huh😃 Thanks you for showing me how to properly use this camera.☺️🙏🏾
Wow, that was a great find, lucky you...they are great cameras and the lenses are excellent, enjoy and keep us posted on how you get on!
Is there any other film I could load into the camera?
You can use any film just so long as it is 35mm also known as 135
There is a wide choice of both new and expired film in black and white, colour negative and colour transparency (slide film)
Find one that you like and have fun, any problems please come back to me..
The Photographer's Bag How do I know the camera is working or if the batteries need to be replaced? Is there a click or specific light I’m looking for?
Hi, the camera will function without a battery as the shutter is totally mechanical and the aperture can be set manually, you can use an external light meter or an app on your phone, the sunny 16 rule also works
The battery only powers the meter and enables the camera to work in shutter priority whereby you select the shutter speed and the camera will set the correct aperture on the lens automatically
There is a display in the viewfinder with an aperture scale and a needle, the red sector at the tip shows over exposure and the red at the bottom is underexposure, if the needle is moving when you change the shutter speed then all should be good if the camera is working properly
Link below to instruction manual
www.butkus.org/chinon/konica/konica_autoreflex_tc/autoreflex_tc-splash.htm
Another great video. This was the second camera I ever bought (first was a Zenith E). Couldn't get on with TC shutter priority so used it in manual, a great improvement however on the Zenith. Eventually got rid of it. Bought one recently with the 40mm and added a 50mm 1.7. Then 2 weeks ago came across a TC-X at a car boot sale. £1 and uses an AAA battery to power the meter. Plastic fantastic camera but think it was the first SLR to have DX coding.
I love Konica cameras, and especially the Hexanon lenses, a working TC-X at that price is amazing and the lenses are so cheap, I have some Zenith's but got the ST901, much better, I hated the M42 mount!
Just bought one of Ebay today excited to use it!!
They are great cameras and the lenses are superb, best wishes for your new camera...
@@thephotographersbag thank you!
I had this camera and didn't liked it. The good part is it's entirely manual (exc for the meter). The light meter needle is hard to read, and I had problems with the shutter and the reload mechanism. The camera also felt too heavy. Now I have the FC-1 which has electronic shutter. It feels more natural, has LED meter, and it's easier to use overall. On the downside, it needs silver oxide batteries which can be replaced with 1.5v alkaline LR44, it will slightly affect the meter reading but not by much
This is my latest camera.I currently have a roll in it and still shooting with it.I cannot wait to see the results from that Hexanon.
The Hexanon lenses are really great performers, looking forward to seeing your next shots...
Thanks for the video. I've got my father's TC and struggling to get the hang of it. Is it possible to take a look at what you've taken with that VX? many thanks in advance!
Hi, one of my favourites, I don't actually show my work as I am a rubbish photographer, more of an equipment geek, I have started to upload images to my Instagram account, thephotographersbag, but alas I did not actually shoot the film in this instance, however a quick search on Flickr will hopefully suffice
www.flickr.com/photos/tags/konica%20autoreflex%20tc/
Rest assured I will upload my stuff when I revisit the camera.....
Hello, thank you for the video. Recently purchased one and the film advance lever is stuck. Any advice? I can’t find another video that addresses this for this specific camera. Thanks!
Hi, sorry to hear that, these cameras have a mechanical shutter and it sounds like a jammed one, was it like this when you got it and was it advertised as working...in this case you should seek to return it
To repair it, will involve taking the camera apart, not an easy task though there are several instructions available on line
Check the shutter curtains to make sure they are intact and in the right place, they need to be undamaged, next I would remove the bottom covet and have a look at the mechanism, the top cover would be next but they are a horrible job
If you like sent me some pictures to my email, thephotographersbag@gmail.com
Showing the shutter and wind on lever....
I actually managed to “fix” it by winding the film back into the canister. The film is probably all ruined as I had around 4 shots left and the roll got exposed, but at least the level is no longer stuck... hoping next time it won’t happen, perhaps I should’ve been more careful loading. Thank you so much for your help! Very appreciated.
Oh, that's great news, please keep us up to date on how the next roll goes....
I just came across this camera. I have a few questions. Can you help me?
When you look through the viewfinder when its turned on and working are there supposed to be lights? because I'm not sure if my battery is working.
Hi, no there is no illumination in the viewfinder, just a scale of aperture numbers on the right hand side, with the lens set to the AE setting,the needle in the viewfinder should move as you change the selected shutter speed, can be hard to see the scale in poor light....does this help?
@@thephotographersbag thank you this was really helpful my camera does work I was looking at it in poor lighting conditions!
@@pinklemonade6597 it's great that your camera is working, was worried that you had a non functional one, though they will work without batteries in manual mode, time to get some pictures taken😃
Just bought this camera, seems very solid, looking forward to getting my first rolls developed! Unfortunatley the lightmeter doesn’t work though, any ideas on how to fix it, or is that a lost cause?
Hi, the camera is totally mechanical and can operate without a battery, the battery is the first thing to check and ideally replace, it is worth checking for corrosion in the battery compartment, any sort of white or green powdery substance should be removed, use vinegar on a qtip or cotton bud to gently remove it and clean up the contacts
It is possible that the corrosion has worked up through the wiring and this situation would require disassembly and replacing the affected wires, push comes to shove, download a light meter app for your mobile phone or use the sunny sixteen rule, it's worth checking the camera light seals around the back door and the mirror damper just above the mirror, these usually need replacement as over time they turn into a sticky gue, any problems please come back to me.....
The Photographer's Bag It suddenly startet working! After testing it with no luck i ended up leaving the batteries in. A couple of days later when started using it i noticed the needle moving! I am using 1,5V batteries though because i cant find 1,35V batteries, so i’ll have to account for that. That will cause the camera to overexpose right? So i’ll have to counter by underexposing one stop maybe
Hi, that's great news and yes you can adjust the exposure to compensate, I usually don't bother as the difference is small and has little affect with black and white film, different if shooting colour transparency film, trial and error, experimentation till you get the results you want, compare the cameras meter to, say, an app on your phone...please let me know how you get on, real fan of these cameras and especially the lenses, very high quality at affordable prices...
@@AimingBadger you can get zinc-air coin cell batteries made for hearing aids that are 1.35 volts. little pricey but its the only true replacement for the originals and they are fairly readily available
@@AimingBadger I've refurbished a number of TCs and this has happened to me more than once - a dead meter starts working suddenly Just some "exercise" for these older cameras can sometimes bring them back to life.
But..... Clean those contacts in the battery compartment nonetheless.
I use the zinc-air hearing aid batteries like @gummy suggested.
I just got this as a gift. When I take a picture the mirror appears to get stuck and doesnt come back down ready for me to see through the view finder and take another image. Any suggestions! thank you
Hi, this camera has a mechanical shutter, the battery powers the meter, it can be used with a "dead" battery
Is the mirror stuck to the mirror damping phone, easily happens if the foam has deteriorated?
Is the shutter stuck open?
Can you use the film advance lever?
Come back to me and we'll see what can be done, are you handy with a small screwdriver?
Same issue here, courtins are down but mirror is up
Good camera, the only problem is the even more limited shutter speed choices. Even when you're coming from digital where the shutter speed choice is practically unlimited having 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500 and 1000 can seem very limiting but especially considering the Autoreflex T4 this camera sat alongside.
I would own one, but only as a cheap and light field camera that I didn't mind getting dropped, dented, or scratched.
I don't really like shutter priority cameras but this was a time of mechanical shutters, a lot of photographers did not trust cameras with electronics and a standard range of shutter speeds was the accepted norm, with the introduction of electronic shutters, especially stepless ones as in the Olympus OM-2, more options like aperture priority became possible
The TC was an entry level camera, the T4 was a tip of the line camera, the Hexanon lenses were the real quality items, I use a T3n for my Hexanon glass, Konica are a bit of a hidden gem and so affordable, lenses are cheap too as they don't adapt well to DSLRs due to the flange distance,do you shoot Konica?
@@thephotographersbag
I own and use a Konica FS-1 at the moment and it's one of the most satisfying cameras you could own. It's still quite a simple camera with manual winder reverse and manual focus, but the electronic shutter is one of the most satisfying sounds you will hear from a camera of this era.
If you thought the thwack of a shutter on an Autoreflex was satisfying, listen to the noise of the motor drive and electronic shutter in the FS-1.
Most people are suspicious of electronic cameras of this era. There was also a reason with the Konica electronic cameras of this era though. Unlike the Canon or Nikon electronic cameras they don't have a method to detect under voltage and so people simply burn them out by using flat batteries.
If you get a Canon or Nikon electronic camera from this era it should pop the fuse if you use it with flat batteries. With the Konica FS-1 and FT-1 the camera's shutter will simply get stuck in the last place it landed before it ran out of power. I have a couple of FT-1s like this... I didn't break them, but I also don't have the parts to fix them anymore. I have one that looks like it's mirror is locked up, but it simply died there because the last owner left dead batteries in it.
As a note:
You should not use an alkaline battery today in one of these cameras, or any electronic camera from the 1970s through 1990s. You should use one of the more expensive silver oxide "industrial," "military" or "camera" grade batteries. The terms are interchangeable. It's the name for silver oxide AA or AAA batteries that hold the same charge on the first and last shot.
Or at the least if you are going to use Alkalines you should change them regularly and remember to take them out of the camera if you're not going to use them for a while.
The biggest problem with these electronic cameras is not the camera itself but the user who is abusing his tools. Like a carpenter who tries to use his hammer to nail a nail into a piece of steel. If you're sill managing to destroy electronic cameras you don't have much else to blame other than yourself.
@@orestes1984 thanks for your valuable contribution and excellent advice, dead batteries in flashguns,winders etc is my biggest grip, have just repaired an Olympus Winder 2 that had bad corrosion from leaking batteries,I hope you stick about and subscribe, your knowledge will be a big help to those just starting out with film photography, Konica is a great starter brand, better value than the likes of the AE-1 or K1000.....
@@thephotographersbag Konica and Minolta, as individual brands but not combined with the MD and AR mount cameras made some of the most underrated cameras in the world. The real secret is that Hexanon and Minolta MD lenses are often sharper than Nikon and Canon lenses. It's just really whether you need a shutter speed faster than 1/1000 or if you want auto-focus. Otherwise in 99% of the cases Konica and Minolta cameras are just as good.
I use them simply because they're cheap and I don't feel like paying the Canon/Nikon tax.
Sorry to hear about the battery corrosion it's really annoying me also at the moment.
Can you screw in filters on this lens?
What film would I get for this camera
Hi, this camera takes 35mm film, sometimes referred to as 135 film. It is available in black&white, colour negative and colour positive which is often called transparency film. It comes it 24 or 26 exposure sizes and a variety of film speeds or sensitivity, I would suggest a speed rating of ISO 400 to start with, either HP5+ for b+w, or Kodak for color negatives, any problems please come back....
I've been looking for a nice Konica, but nearly every one I've found for sale is barely above the "Spare Parts" category!
Some advertised on Ebay are filthy and covered in dings, dents, scratches, etc.
You would think anyone wanting to sell a "Classic" or "Vintage" camera would at least blow the dust off of it? But no! Check out the photos. Some are absolutely filthy.
If I can find one in excellent condition, I'd pay TOP DOLLAR for it.
My Nikon FM2n took several months of searching to find. But now I have one in near New condition that will last me for decades.
And my Nikon FE is almost as good. But some of the off brands?
Well.......I'll keep searching!
What does the ASA change?
Hi, ASA is an old abbreviation for what we call ISO nowadays, the two are the same, it tells you the sensitivity of the film, a low number indicates low sensitivity and a higher number indicated a high sensitivity, ISO 400 is a popular film speed for both black and white or colour photography, setting the film speed on the camera enables it to calculate the correct amount of light to reach the film and create correct "exposure", this camera has an automatic function so all you have to do is select the shutter speed,(length of time the film is exposed) and the camera will calculate and set the lens aperture to the required setting, ( called the f stop), I hope this helps a bit and any if any clarification needed please feel free to come back to me.....
Is that heavier than pentax me super(445g)?
Hey, yes it is heavier at 510g compared to the Pentax ME Super at 445g....
@@thephotographersbag thanks!! wow 510g...
@@chili0112 People complain that these are "plastic" but the only plastic is the top cap (on all) and the bottom cap (on later versions). Everything else is metal. They are compact but lighter than the all metal cameras of their time. I've had many TCs and T4s come across my workbench and only ONE has ever shown damage on the plastics used, and it was just a hairline crack on a top corner that was inconsequential. They're far more durable than they look.
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience, I am a big fan of Konica cameras and have several TCs and others, the lenses are outstanding and build quality was top notch, I don't understand why they seem so undesirable.....
@@thephotographersbag They've just been forgotten to time. No new shooters recognize Konica as a photography brand today, so they've nothing to base it on at first glance. It's like everything... the "winners" re-write the history. I'm betting it could change in time though, especially as the Nikon/Canon/Contax/etc stuff is all bought up and inflated (as it's already become).
The camera shooter got stock but the curtins are shut annd I cant shoot or crank again