Thanks for making this video! I recently inherited my dad's old T3 and I had no idea what anything on this camera did. Its so nice to find videos like this that take the time to explain everything. I can't wait to start taking pictures with it now!
I love the T3. I own 4 of them (including a beautiful all black version), just because! :) And the Hexanon lenses are some of the most underrated lenses ever.
I just picked up the all black t3. Might be a t3n not sure but I love it. Gotta clean it and check the light seals. Also it weighs a ton. Definitely need some muscle.
I strongly believe the Konicas T,T2 and T3 are the most underrated cameras ever. Unbreakable tanks, ultra solid construction, reliable and with legendary lenses.
Thank you SO much for making this video! I found my Konica t3 at a thrift store years ago and just have not tackled the task of learning how to ue it, simply because getting film developed is so expensive. Your video was so helpful for me!
Thanks bro, I didn't knew anything about this beautiful machine, I got from a childhood friend that passed away this year, I will take care of it and try to take amazing pictures like he did.
For a short time in the late early 1970's, I considered the Konica Autoreflex T, but decided that the 1969 Nikkormat FTN was good enough for the (relatively) slow color films of the time. (Kodacolor-X was ASA 80, Kodachrome topped out at ASA 64, with High Speed Ektachrome's ASA 160 the speed champ for Kodak.) The very first Konica Autoreflex (1/2 frame capable) looked a tad behind the times with the external exposure meter. The Konica Autoreflex T had the "clean, modern look" of 1970 35mm SLR cameras.
All good choices. I have the Autorex P, the meterless (Japanese market) version of the Autoreflex with half-frame capabilities. The camera looks a whole lot better without the meter, but it was a repair nightmare for the first two years I had. I took it apart and worked on the mechanism about a half-dozen times before I got it to a point where it would work reliably and not randomly jam (and removing the base of that camera risks exposing the film with the way the shutter is made, eliminating the chances of a field repair.) So the Autoreflex is a bit less mechanically reliable (in my limited experience) that the more robust T and Nikon FTN you picked up.
I just got one of these on a garage sale so you are speaking french to me right now (I only has a canon t2 before) but it is a nice introduction video. Thank you!
Another well made and thorough video, thank you. I've just taken delivery of a T2 body for just £10 (+ delivery) and I love it. Just one correction on your maths if you don't mind. I'm pretty sure that 92% frame coverage refers to the area, not length. This is good news, as it means that the length (or height) coverage is the square root of 0.92, which is just under 0.99, or 99%. In other words, you only lose 0.5% each side and top/bottom.
Thank you! For the 92%, correct, it's the frame coverage. But it's not always exactly even. In general, the viewfinder frame coverage on cameras is about centrally located with a slight crop on the top, bottom, and each side. Some cameras, though, have that area slightly off-center. Once way to find out is to draw a box on a sheet of paper and have the box's frames on the exact peripheries of the viewfinder scene, then photograph it. The negative will reveal how much of the frame is photographed outside that box.
@DavidHancock Yes, I accept that it may not be central. My point was just that instead of a total loss of about 8% in each direction, it is actually less. Embarrassingly though, I miscalculated. The square root of 0.92 is actually just under 0.96, so you actually lose about 4% toral length, or 2% each end (if it is central).
T3, T4, TC, C35 FD(autoS3), C35 AF, C35 EF (which was my grandmother's) ..... and an FT-1 on the way. I'm deep in the Konic rabbit hole now, at least the good stuff of the latter years at any rate.
.. got a Chinon 'Memotron' in my collection. This is a slr from 1973. This model has an similar features to the Konica Autoreflex T3. A advertise from that time also marketed this particular model from Chinon that this was the first slr with accurate AE control / stopdown metering..also this Chinon camera has a significant 'memory button' aside of the lens...
Thx for the video. I watched your video just minutes before I scored a deal on let go and picked it up with original manual and case. I’m about to watch your second vid.
My father gave me his Autoreflex T3 along with the Hexanon 50mm 1.7 lens. The body and mechanics are pristine. The light meter is busted though. This camera is built like a tank. I picked another up for cheap which is fully functional. The only issue is when focusing the split image is not present in the viewfinder. When focusing, the center displays some tiny dots which do disappear as you focus. I assume this is not normal.
Hi David, I think the autoreflex T (the T1 and T2 had the T nomenclature) was the first purely mechanical time-priority SRL with AE. The T3 autoreflex is just an improvement on the T but with the same features.
Hey David - excellent as per usual. Great to see some Konica around here! I fell into a Konica SLR vortex only a couple years ago. Had never shot them before, though I'd always adored the Hexar and Hexanons found on some compacts of my past, so I decided to find a cheap kit. Wound up a with (for practically pennies) a nearly mint, black T4 and T3n with a full complement of glass, *much* of which had *lots* (and I mean lots) of fungus throughout the elements which I took a couple weeks cleaning one by one. But both of those two cameras hugely surprised me by how wonderful and INCREDIBLY advanced they were. I'd read so many disparaging remarks about Konica SLRs in the past which are all DEAD WRONG as far as I'm concerned now. The T4 has become my daily driver for the past 2 years (I love it), but the T3n (totally different beast for certain) though large and heavy in comparison, is really just a buttery pleasure to shoot with all around. My Pentax cameras have begun to wonder what they said that offended me. :D Thanks as usual.
@@DavidHancock It's hard to describe. They're unusually sharp, and yet still have a older feeling to the images, a bit more glow and warmth. Can never entirely put my finger on it, but I agree. Love them. (edit: sorry this is "chickentender" as well - I have two account and always forget which one i'm on)
The first "Autoreflex T" is from 1968, the predecessor was called "Auto Reflex" and was introduced in 1965 as a unique camera that could take half-frame photos by just changing a lever. The T2 was called the same as the T1 "Autoreflex T" the first T3 was called T3 like David's with the letters on the top of the camera with a detachable flash shoe, the T3n no longer has T-3 on the top and has the fixed shoe. One problem with this camera is how difficult it is to change the mirror shock absorber which is made of rubber and like all cameras of the time it degrades and to replace it you have to disassemble almost the entire camera, the same to be able to clean the screen that gets dirty with the degradation of the rubber shock absorber.
Hello, really liked your video! And have few questions. I just get Konica autoreflex T3 and I wanted to ask how to use this multiple exposure button on the top of the camera. It means that you can take like 2 or more shots on one piece of film, or how I can say it, and get like photos with a two or more scenes? And also wanted to ask how work and what cause this DOF prewiev button. Thank you for your answers!
Thank you! For double exposures, check out video 2. There's a link to it in this video's description and Video 2 has a time-linked index in the description so you can skip right to the multiple-exposure part. The DoF preview button closes the aperture down so you can preview what the image's depth of field will be before taking your shot. That allows you to determine if you have the correct aperture and focus.
Just checking my Konica cameras own the silver Auto T with 52mm 1.7 lens, an all Black autoreflex T3 with viewfinder curtain, hot shoe contact, the word autoreflex spelled out next to T3 on front of camera with the 52mm f 1.4 lens, the Konica FT-1with built in motor drive with lots of camera auto features and dials ( a used camera that has not aged well electronic failures as they age resulting in no motor drive to advance film or shutter release), Also a Konica FT-X which came out towards the end when Konica sold out to Minolta. The camera has a plastic body, hot shoe, limited shutter speeds and use a single AAA battery to run the light meter and film contacts where you load the film that will set the ASA. Wikipedia has Konica camera history that is pretty complete, Tamron and Sigma offered adaptable zoom lenses that worked with the camera's EE light meter.
Hello David, might seem like a dumb question but I can't find an answer anywhere. I just got myself a T3 and it's my first time using a film camera. I was wondering if the automatic aperture system needed the batteries to be functionning to operate properly ! So far I'm just using an external light meter and I'm having a blast, but using the automatic aperture could save me some time and headaches ! Your videos helped me a ton by the way ! Great work !
I am new to film photography and I haven’t had any film cameras until lately, I purchased this T3 on a good deal to at least practice on and familiarize. I bought hearing aid batteries to check if the metering works but seems like it’s broken so I might have to stick with manual metering and use it without batteries. But what I am wondering, is the viewfinder really blurry? There’s a little circle at the center which seems to be the only clear part where I can see the subject through. My lens is a Hexanon 50mm f1.7 and seems like it doesn’t change the clarity whatsoever.
It's probable that your camera is a-okay. With an f/1.7 lens the image area that is out of focus will be VERY blurry. When you focus the lens will be wide open to givem ore precise focus. The aperture closes when you take the photo only. So to test your camera just grab it and look at something near you -- pencil, desk edge, computer, etc. Something that has definable edges is what you need. Then adjust the focus on the lens until the image is in focus. You may need to use something that's about three or four feet away. I don't recall the 1.7 lens' close focus point. Then you can also verify infinity focus by focusing to infinity on the lens and pointing the camera at something like a building that's a block or so away.
I have found the body of this camera lying on a drawer from a loved one. It is missing the lense but it has a problem and does not function. My camera looks all the time like yours at 6:36. It feels like the shutter is missing. Also the thing used to pass onto the next square of film does not Go all the way. I really do not know what to do with it! I would appreciate some feedback and guidance.
Hi, I've recently been given this camera by a family member and have been tinkering with it to see if it works. It seems that the wind lever doesn't work and I was curious if you knew if it's completely broken and I shouldn't spend time fixing it, or if it's something that could potentially be fixed. The mechanics seem to be working, it's just the lever itself that is loose so it isn't able to wind the film. It might be a problem with one of the washers when you take the lever apart but I'm not sure because it's my first manual camera.
That's an issue that I've seen on lots of cameras. Basically, something inside is either stripped (most likely) or disconnected. It takes a pretty significant disassembly to repair that so I'd send it along to a professional.
I just posted to r/photography about this but I figured I'd post here for camera specific advice. I took a photo on my T3, like any other, this one was number 25, and the viewfinder stayed black. I thought it was taking a ridiculously long exposure but I rewound the the film and opened the back and the shutter was closed. I took off the lense and it's like it is when you take a picture but the shutter isn't open, the mirrors aren't visible. I'm not sure what to do? Should I take it somewhere to get it serviced?
Were you using a slow shutter speed? If so, try firing it at a fast shutter speed. If the mirror behaves normally, then the issue is that the mirror return either has grease in it or a fatigued return spring (more likely grease.) That can be repaired but needs a professional to service it as it means disassembling part of the shutter mechanism. I'd reach out to Vermont Camera Works to see if they have bandwidth.
@@DavidHancock No I was shooting at 500 speed, so not slow at all. Also one thing about the camera in it's current state is that I can't actually operate the arm, it's like I've already worked the arm and it's ready to take a picture, but the shutter button doesn't do anything. I'll send it to Vermont Camera Works, thanks for the recommendation!
That is not correct. Cameras with light meters, like this one, need the ISO dial to provide the film speed data needed for a proper exposure. Manual or not, any camera with a light meter needs a correct ISO setting that matches the film speed input into the camera.
@@DavidHancock it only needs it for the lightmeter which if you're not internally metering does not mean a thing. I don't use the internal meter anyway as they're inaccurate compared to modern light meters. There is no connection between the meter and what's going on like more modern cameras that can read the DX codes.
I see what you're saying and yes, that's correct. The battery only powers the light meter the camera can operate just fine mechanically without a battery.
If you want to do a review of the Mamiya 645 system, I have a 645pro with the 80mm/1.9 lens ("the dark knight")...message me via IG for shipping details if interested...thanks for the great channel!
Thanks for making this video! I recently inherited my dad's old T3 and I had no idea what anything on this camera did. Its so nice to find videos like this that take the time to explain everything. I can't wait to start taking pictures with it now!
Thank you and that's a great camera!
Wow, all these years I thought I had a T3 but no….I have a T3n. How cool is that. Thank you camera guy.
I bought my first T3 in 1975. What a great camera
I love the T3. I own 4 of them (including a beautiful all black version), just because! :)
And the Hexanon lenses are some of the most underrated lenses ever.
Nice! The Hexanons are truly spectacular for sure.
I just picked up the all black t3. Might be a t3n not sure but I love it. Gotta clean it and check the light seals. Also it weighs a ton. Definitely need some muscle.
I strongly believe the Konicas T,T2 and T3 are the most underrated cameras ever. Unbreakable tanks, ultra solid construction, reliable and with legendary lenses.
They are all definitely underrated, for sure.
What a great camera! I have the original T, T2 and T3. These are built like tanks. The Hexanon lenses are among the best in its class.
Definitely yes. I love the 57mm f/1.4 and the 40mm f/1.8. Those lenses are just spectacular performers with wonderful image characteristics.
Thank you SO much for making this video! I found my Konica t3 at a thrift store years ago and just have not tackled the task of learning how to ue it, simply because getting film developed is so expensive. Your video was so helpful for me!
Thank you!
Thanks bro, I didn't knew anything about this beautiful machine, I got from a childhood friend that passed away this year, I will take care of it and try to take amazing pictures like he did.
Thank you and I hope that you're able to take great photos with it, too!
For a short time in the late early 1970's, I considered the Konica Autoreflex T, but decided that the 1969 Nikkormat FTN was good enough for the (relatively) slow color films of the time. (Kodacolor-X was ASA 80, Kodachrome topped out at ASA 64, with High Speed Ektachrome's ASA 160 the speed champ for Kodak.) The very first Konica Autoreflex (1/2 frame capable) looked a tad behind the times with the external exposure meter. The Konica Autoreflex T had the "clean, modern look" of 1970 35mm SLR cameras.
All good choices. I have the Autorex P, the meterless (Japanese market) version of the Autoreflex with half-frame capabilities. The camera looks a whole lot better without the meter, but it was a repair nightmare for the first two years I had. I took it apart and worked on the mechanism about a half-dozen times before I got it to a point where it would work reliably and not randomly jam (and removing the base of that camera risks exposing the film with the way the shutter is made, eliminating the chances of a field repair.) So the Autoreflex is a bit less mechanically reliable (in my limited experience) that the more robust T and Nikon FTN you picked up.
I found this camera in my moms closet… I’m learning thru your videos :))
Nice! These are great cameras.
I really really appreciate this video! You explained everything in a very clear and concise manner :) thank you!
Thank you!
I just got one of these on a garage sale so you are speaking french to me right now (I only has a canon t2 before) but it is a nice introduction video. Thank you!
Thank you!
Another well made and thorough video, thank you. I've just taken delivery of a T2 body for just £10 (+ delivery) and I love it.
Just one correction on your maths if you don't mind. I'm pretty sure that 92% frame coverage refers to the area, not length. This is good news, as it means that the length (or height) coverage is the square root of 0.92, which is just under 0.99, or 99%. In other words, you only lose 0.5% each side and top/bottom.
Thank you! For the 92%, correct, it's the frame coverage. But it's not always exactly even. In general, the viewfinder frame coverage on cameras is about centrally located with a slight crop on the top, bottom, and each side. Some cameras, though, have that area slightly off-center. Once way to find out is to draw a box on a sheet of paper and have the box's frames on the exact peripheries of the viewfinder scene, then photograph it. The negative will reveal how much of the frame is photographed outside that box.
@DavidHancock Yes, I accept that it may not be central. My point was just that instead of a total loss of about 8% in each direction, it is actually less. Embarrassingly though, I miscalculated. The square root of 0.92 is actually just under 0.96, so you actually lose about 4% toral length, or 2% each end (if it is central).
T3, T4, TC, C35 FD(autoS3), C35 AF, C35 EF (which was my grandmother's) ..... and an FT-1 on the way. I'm deep in the Konic rabbit hole now, at least the good stuff of the latter years at any rate.
That's a great lineup of cameras, all of which are really nice.
Hello David Hancock,
Enjoyed this video, and thanks for putting it together. I have the T3 with Hot Shoe and the 57mm 1,4 Hexanon .
Thank you and nice camera! The 57mm lens is spectacular.
Planning on buying one. Great video as always David!
Thank you, Davy!
.. got a Chinon 'Memotron' in my collection. This is a slr from 1973. This model has an similar features to the Konica Autoreflex T3. A advertise from that time also marketed this particular model from Chinon that this was the first slr with accurate AE control / stopdown metering..also this Chinon camera has a significant 'memory button' aside of the lens...
Nice! That's not one I'd heard of.
Thx for the video. I watched your video just minutes before I scored a deal on let go and picked it up with original manual and case. I’m about to watch your second vid.
Fantastic! These are really nice cameras, just heavy.
How much did you buy for? If you dont mind
My father gave me his Autoreflex T3 along with the Hexanon 50mm 1.7 lens. The body and mechanics are pristine. The light meter is busted though. This camera is built like a tank.
I picked another up for cheap which is fully functional. The only issue is when focusing the split image is not present in the viewfinder. When focusing, the center displays some tiny dots which do disappear as you focus. I assume this is not normal.
Sounds like, on the second one, you have a microprism focusing screen, which is just a different type.
I have two autoreflex T3 (new) one came with split focusing screen and the other with microprism
Hi David, I think the autoreflex T (the T1 and T2 had the T nomenclature) was the first purely mechanical time-priority SRL with AE. The T3 autoreflex is just an improvement on the T but with the same features.
Thank you!
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEES!!! My favorite camera!!!
It's a great camera, too!
Hey David - excellent as per usual. Great to see some Konica around here! I fell into a Konica SLR vortex only a couple years ago. Had never shot them before, though I'd always adored the Hexar and Hexanons found on some compacts of my past, so I decided to find a cheap kit. Wound up a with (for practically pennies) a nearly mint, black T4 and T3n with a full complement of glass, *much* of which had *lots* (and I mean lots) of fungus throughout the elements which I took a couple weeks cleaning one by one. But both of those two cameras hugely surprised me by how wonderful and INCREDIBLY advanced they were. I'd read so many disparaging remarks about Konica SLRs in the past which are all DEAD WRONG as far as I'm concerned now. The T4 has become my daily driver for the past 2 years (I love it), but the T3n (totally different beast for certain) though large and heavy in comparison, is really just a buttery pleasure to shoot with all around. My Pentax cameras have begun to wonder what they said that offended me. :D Thanks as usual.
Thank you! I'm just starting to delve into Konica. I love the way the lenses render images.
@@DavidHancock It's hard to describe. They're unusually sharp, and yet still have a older feeling to the images, a bit more glow and warmth. Can never entirely put my finger on it, but I agree. Love them. (edit: sorry this is "chickentender" as well - I have two account and always forget which one i'm on)
Thank you for this! A friend just gave me one and this is all new to me.
That's an awesome gift!
The first "Autoreflex T" is from 1968, the predecessor was called "Auto Reflex" and was introduced in 1965 as a unique camera that could take half-frame photos by just changing a lever. The T2 was called the same as the T1 "Autoreflex T" the first T3 was called T3 like David's with the letters on the top of the camera with a detachable flash shoe, the T3n no longer has T-3 on the top and has the fixed shoe. One problem with this camera is how difficult it is to change the mirror shock absorber which is made of rubber and like all cameras of the time it degrades and to replace it you have to disassemble almost the entire camera, the same to be able to clean the screen that gets dirty with the degradation of the rubber shock absorber.
Thank you!
This video was so helpful for the new T3 that I just got but I was wondering if you had any experience with the Konica FT-1 Motor cameras?
Thank you! For the FT-1 cameras, I have no experience with those.
Hello, really liked your video! And have few questions. I just get Konica autoreflex T3 and I wanted to ask how to use this multiple exposure button on the top of the camera. It means that you can take like 2 or more shots on one piece of film, or how I can say it, and get like photos with a two or more scenes? And also wanted to ask how work and what cause this DOF prewiev button. Thank you for your answers!
Thank you!
For double exposures, check out video 2. There's a link to it in this video's description and Video 2 has a time-linked index in the description so you can skip right to the multiple-exposure part.
The DoF preview button closes the aperture down so you can preview what the image's depth of field will be before taking your shot. That allows you to determine if you have the correct aperture and focus.
Just checking my Konica cameras own the silver Auto T with 52mm 1.7 lens, an all Black autoreflex T3 with viewfinder curtain, hot shoe contact, the word autoreflex spelled out next to T3 on front of camera with the 52mm f 1.4 lens, the Konica FT-1with built in motor drive with lots of camera auto features and dials ( a used camera that has not aged well electronic failures as they age resulting in no motor drive to advance film or shutter release), Also a Konica FT-X which came out towards the end when Konica sold out to Minolta. The camera has a plastic body, hot shoe, limited shutter speeds and use a single AAA battery to run the light meter and film contacts where you load the film that will set the ASA. Wikipedia has Konica camera history that is pretty complete, Tamron and Sigma offered adaptable zoom lenses that worked with the camera's EE light meter.
Thank you!
Hello David, might seem like a dumb question but I can't find an answer anywhere.
I just got myself a T3 and it's my first time using a film camera. I was wondering if the automatic aperture system needed the batteries to be functionning to operate properly !
So far I'm just using an external light meter and I'm having a blast, but using the automatic aperture could save me some time and headaches !
Your videos helped me a ton by the way ! Great work !
Thank you and the automatic mode does need batteries. It's based on the meter reading, which requires batteries.
@@DavidHancock That's what I thought, thanks for clearing up my doubts !
Hello! I'm considering buying this camera, where exactly do I see the lightmeter? In the viewfinder?
That's correct.
I am new to film photography and I haven’t had any film cameras until lately, I purchased this T3 on a good deal to at least practice on and familiarize. I bought hearing aid batteries to check if the metering works but seems like it’s broken so I might have to stick with manual metering and use it without batteries. But what I am wondering, is the viewfinder really blurry? There’s a little circle at the center which seems to be the only clear part where I can see the subject through. My lens is a Hexanon 50mm f1.7 and seems like it doesn’t change the clarity whatsoever.
It's probable that your camera is a-okay. With an f/1.7 lens the image area that is out of focus will be VERY blurry. When you focus the lens will be wide open to givem ore precise focus. The aperture closes when you take the photo only. So to test your camera just grab it and look at something near you -- pencil, desk edge, computer, etc. Something that has definable edges is what you need. Then adjust the focus on the lens until the image is in focus. You may need to use something that's about three or four feet away. I don't recall the 1.7 lens' close focus point. Then you can also verify infinity focus by focusing to infinity on the lens and pointing the camera at something like a building that's a block or so away.
I have found the body of this camera lying on a drawer from a loved one. It is missing the lense but it has a problem and does not function. My camera looks all the time like yours at 6:36. It feels like the shutter is missing. Also the thing used to pass onto the next square of film does not Go all the way. I really do not know what to do with it! I would appreciate some feedback and guidance.
Honestly, it sounds like it could use a professional repair. If you're in the US, Vermont Camera Works might be a good option.
Hi, I've recently been given this camera by a family member and have been tinkering with it to see if it works. It seems that the wind lever doesn't work and I was curious if you knew if it's completely broken and I shouldn't spend time fixing it, or if it's something that could potentially be fixed. The mechanics seem to be working, it's just the lever itself that is loose so it isn't able to wind the film. It might be a problem with one of the washers when you take the lever apart but I'm not sure because it's my first manual camera.
That's an issue that I've seen on lots of cameras. Basically, something inside is either stripped (most likely) or disconnected. It takes a pretty significant disassembly to repair that so I'd send it along to a professional.
got my hands on a t3n that came with 3 lenses a vivitar auto thyristor 283 and a few other goodies for 49$ today
Nice!
I just posted to r/photography about this but I figured I'd post here for camera specific advice. I took a photo on my T3, like any other, this one was number 25, and the viewfinder stayed black.
I thought it was taking a ridiculously long exposure but I rewound the the film and opened the back and the shutter was closed. I took off the lense and it's like it is when you take a picture but the shutter isn't open, the mirrors aren't visible.
I'm not sure what to do? Should I take it somewhere to get it serviced?
Were you using a slow shutter speed? If so, try firing it at a fast shutter speed. If the mirror behaves normally, then the issue is that the mirror return either has grease in it or a fatigued return spring (more likely grease.) That can be repaired but needs a professional to service it as it means disassembling part of the shutter mechanism. I'd reach out to Vermont Camera Works to see if they have bandwidth.
@@DavidHancock No I was shooting at 500 speed, so not slow at all. Also one thing about the camera in it's current state is that I can't actually operate the arm, it's like I've already worked the arm and it's ready to take a picture, but the shutter button doesn't do anything.
I'll send it to Vermont Camera Works, thanks for the recommendation!
Sir, is it possible to get a service / repair manual for Konica AutoReflex T3
Probably but I don't have one. Check online and see if there is a PDF available.
David Hancock Thank you sir
👑
Thank you!
That's my go-to camera but mine is PROFESSIONAL BLACK.
Very nice. These are slick in black.
The ISO dial is just for reminder purpose. It doesn't do anything on a manual camera.
That is not correct. Cameras with light meters, like this one, need the ISO dial to provide the film speed data needed for a proper exposure. Manual or not, any camera with a light meter needs a correct ISO setting that matches the film speed input into the camera.
@@DavidHancock it only needs it for the lightmeter which if you're not internally metering does not mean a thing. I don't use the internal meter anyway as they're inaccurate compared to modern light meters. There is no connection between the meter and what's going on like more modern cameras that can read the DX codes.
I see what you're saying and yes, that's correct. The battery only powers the light meter the camera can operate just fine mechanically without a battery.
I had no idea this was fully mechanical and I've been trying to find batteries for 3 months 😂
:D Yup, only need batteries for the light meter.
What are the chances I'm the one that bought this camera from you lol... Great tutorial btw..
This specific one? Fairly low. It was lost in shipping after I sold it last year. I did just sell a different one last week, though.
@@DavidHancock yes sir same serial and markings 😁
@@MrFdxdoeboy oh interesting. I must have sold this one just recently then. Nice!
@@DavidHancock yes just received it today..👍
If you want to do a review of the Mamiya 645 system, I have a 645pro with the 80mm/1.9 lens ("the dark knight")...message me via IG for shipping details if interested...thanks for the great channel!
I definitely would love to try that! Thank you! Is your IG handle the same as your YT handle?
@@DavidHancock no...you can DM me on IG @e_mount_sucks ...thanks again for all the 411 (useful 411) that you make available to us...appreciate it
@@DavidHancock where can I find you on IG?
Fiiiiiirst!
And this one should actually have something to see.
@@DavidHancock Maybe you should try Lume Cube. Ads are all over videos.