Adjust clutch bite point
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- Quick video on how to adjust the slip/bite point on your clutch, I didn't know how to do this (thanks Manny) so thought it might help others.
#motorcycleclutch #clutchadjust
My gear featured in this video and where I bought it from (might have to click variants to get the colours):
• Knox Handroid Pod:
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• Knox Thermal Liner:
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• Rev'It Vintage Glide Leather Jacket:
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• Rev'it Lombard 2 Jeans:
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• Falco Aviator Boots :
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• QuadLock Phone Mount:
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• X-803 Helmet:
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• Sena 30K:
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• GoPro Helmet Mount:
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• GoPro Hero 4, 5 Session and 7:
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Been struggling with my clutch bite being too far - so glad found your video - Simple, short and straight to the point and super helpful! Thanks much!
First time adjusting engagement point (still learning motorbike mechanics) after watching your video. Very informative! I have several years of experience in bicycle repair and I will say this works EXACTLY the same as adjusting cable-pull brake. The only difference is that they work in the opposite way, where you loose the nut (more in), you have nearer engagement point on motorbike, and you will have more lever travel to trigger the brake on bicycle. As the clutch is just a "reversed version" of brake 😅. Thank you!
Thanks for the help! Just got my bike back from yearly servicing and they adjusted the clutch bite point way too high for my liking so this will help me to get it back to where I like it.
Man this just happened to me today damn is it alright to put it back?
Exactly the video I needed! Thanks man!
Glad it helped!
@@yodomcat I recently took my litre sportbikes off the road and gone back to track days only. Draconian Australian road rules are out of control here now. So I bought a 2022 Honda CB125F just for a laugh and to still go to the shops and see mates etc. I had it delivered and only got around to riding the little champion yesterday. Crikey! Guess how they set up the clutch bite point on these learner bikes? The bite point is at the very end of the lever release! 90% of the lever moves and there is no drive at all. I go check the clutch housing and the actuator lever and it's flapping in the breeze with spare travel. Get out the 14mm and the 12mm spanners and bring up the actuator to where there is no free play and re tighten adjuster nut and locknut. Start her up and bingo! Bites a few inches feeding out the lever and she's away with 10.7 bhp of vicious Ponies!
Thanks for the video! I kept searching about this but it was coming up with results about free play, which isnt really the same as biting point I think?
But this video explained exactly what I wanted thank you
Barrel adjuster you’re using in this vid has been engineered to adjust necessary free play in order for the clutch to work properly. Usually it’s 5-20mm and it has to be set accordingly to your bike’s manual. When the clutch free play is not within specifics, it will never fully engage/disengage and that leads to pretty dire consequences. Bite point is separate setting and shouldn’t interfere anyhow with cable tension. Ride safe
I was thinking the same. This is from my manual: Loosen the ring nut and turn the set screw with the handlebar straight until the empty travel corresponding to the fixed abutment on the handlebar is 2 mm (0.08 in).
So how do you adjust the note point????
This is exactly what i needed to fix the biting point for the bike in the license school. Thanks mate. It fucks me up every time because students keep ruining the bike 😭😭 i want to pass my bike
My groms clutch engagement is the handle fully extended so it’s so hard to rideeeee
You should be able to adjust from down near the engine, check your manual or next time you’re down a mechanic ask the question as you might be able to adjust a little more.
@@yodomcat thank youuu 🙏🙏
Samr and even when i adjust from the lever it doesnt change the bite point..?
Bite point isnt done from the barrel adjuster. Its done from the 2 small nuts on the other end of the clutch cable.
True, but you can quickly get the desired result this way.
@@yodomcat I cant. I've reached the extent of my lever adjuster and getting some hand pain. Gonna spanner it tomorrow. Thanks for the vids.
Thank you so much mate i heartly appreciate you
Hi there mate! I have a question, are you squeezing the lever while adjusting it? And if so, how far are you squeezing it? Is it a full squeeze? Hope you notice! Thank you
Hi, no, not squeezing the lever. Remember you can also adjust with a spanner at the clutch end (left hand side down by engine) if you have/haven’t got enough slack - this video just shows a minor adjustment.
My bite point starts about 1cm out from handlebars, if I want the bite point around half way out is this also the method ?
Should work; but it not just give a turn on the clutch it pull that out a little.
Thank youuuu
That adjust is not for bite point,its only lever free play adjuster.
With the movement it makes the bite further up or down so does the same job but easier
I received my Yamaha yesterday after servicing, and i noticed that i had to leave the clutch a bit far to engage the biting point. When i inquired about it they said it'll go back to normal after a week of riding. Is that true?
On a new bike things sometimes need 1000 miles to settle in. Just adjust it twice 👍🏻
@@yodomcat sorry for the confusion, I've had the bike since 2020 and only has around 9000km on the odo!!
@@yodomcat before the service it was alright
What’s that mount you have for your phone? Where did you get it?
It’s a Quadlock. If you search my channel i have a few videos reviewing and install guide 👍🏻
LOL. Putting a tutrorial on youtube but its all bullshit. Loving it
Wow surprised it's not a fluid clutch on that one Dom : ) cheers
Hey, I have a question and can't find any helpful answers! I have a big bike and when I hold my clutch at the friction zone like you did at 0:10, it doesn't have enough power to make it move without any throttle. Is that normal, or should check on it or smth? Because on the course the bike I learned on had enough power to do it, and it was a similar bike. My first bike is a GS 500 E, and the bike I learnt on is ER-5. Thanks for any answers.
Some bikes are like that, you’d stall without throttle. You can adjust the choke (whatever that call it these days) to compensate but then it would run rich. But best place to ask would be your bikes owners club of facebook
@@yodomcat Thanks for answering!
Swear you shouldn't adjust it when bikes on and warm. Shouldn't it be done when bike is cold?
I’ve always done it warm no issues 👍🏻
I just go from dealership and they put it with some free play and now I can’t put it on neutral, it’s ok to adjust this ?
No hard give it a whirl. Or you can adjust lower down on the bike for more slack.
Though I find lack of N is normally the chain over the clutch cable.
@@yodomcat chain it’s fine