Many many thanks for the crystal clear explanation, finally did it, there was literally no slack on mine and the friction point was right at the end of the course. Much better now.
Thanks a lot! My TW200 clutch engagement was at the very beginning of the squeeze instead of 2/3 of the way down like I like it. I'm going to make these adjustments in the morning!
A good general guide. I wish someone would do a video explaining the mechanics of this process and the best starting point (if replacing the cable) to facilitate the adjustment. Example: Should the lever side adjustment start in the middle or all further in? How about the lower adjustor? Since these play off one another, it would make sense that you would want to end up with the upper adjustment somewhere in the middle. How is this best accomplished?
Great video and excellent imstruction I don't have the lock nut type of lever adjuster just the thumb type (one screw) . Never used before and I'm finding it difficult to use.
After I replaced my clutch with something different, I had to tweak my clutch cable above and below next to my rear brake lever. But after adjusting, now the friction zone is almost when my lever is fully let-go. Please help. What should I do?
If you've adjusted it as shown in the video and you've taken up all the slack you can find, perhaps your clutch cable is a non-standard length? It's probably best to ask someone at a bike shop to confirm that for you.
@@TheDesignerDan Thank you for the reply. I've fixed my issue by seeing what happens if I take up all the slack of the cable and I realized that if I take up all the slack it will cause the issue that I had mentioned. By allowing too much slack, the bike definitely led to clutch slip. However, after taking up enough slack, my bike was hard to put in neutral. After research, I realized that if there's no slack in the cable, it will cause the bike to have a hard time setting it on neutral. So, I decided to slowly remove slack mm by mm and came to a point where my clutch is engaged an inch away from my grip. I hope this helps for people here since all of us came here for help.
No, this is just the standard clutch on the bike. I believe this setup is the same on most bikes, so provided you have the two nuts by the lever and the two at the clutch, the process should be very similar for you as well.
Not sure if fiddling with the clutch cable adjustemnt to give more slack is to blame but I noticed my cable is now almost fully shredded at the lever, so I need a new cable. Did anyone else with a NC750X have this problem?
I haven't had any problem like this. I'd look closely to see if one of the adjacent parts has a burr or something on it, or it'll shred your new cable too.
Yes, but not too much. If you go too far, you might not fully engage the clutch when you pull the lever in. Alternatively, you might be able to find aftermarket levers that sit closer to your hands.
Many many thanks for the crystal clear explanation, finally did it, there was literally no slack on mine and the friction point was right at the end of the course. Much better now.
Happy to help! I'm glad you got it all sorted!
You are an absolute legend! Thank you for this video
Thanks a lot! My TW200 clutch engagement was at the very beginning of the squeeze instead of 2/3 of the way down like I like it. I'm going to make these adjustments in the morning!
A good general guide. I wish someone would do a video explaining the mechanics of this process and the best starting point (if replacing the cable) to facilitate the adjustment. Example: Should the lever side adjustment start in the middle or all further in? How about the lower adjustor? Since these play off one another, it would make sense that you would want to end up with the upper adjustment somewhere in the middle. How is this best accomplished?
Great video and excellent imstruction
I don't have the lock nut type of lever adjuster just the thumb type (one screw) . Never used before and I'm finding it difficult to use.
Just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Is this how you change the clutch engagement point?
Yes, it is.
Thanks for the informative video sir 👍
Thank you!
Really helpful! Thanks!
Great video
After I replaced my clutch with something different, I had to tweak my clutch cable above and below next to my rear brake lever. But after adjusting, now the friction zone is almost when my lever is fully let-go. Please help. What should I do?
If you've adjusted it as shown in the video and you've taken up all the slack you can find, perhaps your clutch cable is a non-standard length? It's probably best to ask someone at a bike shop to confirm that for you.
@@TheDesignerDan Thank you for the reply. I've fixed my issue by seeing what happens if I take up all the slack of the cable and I realized that if I take up all the slack it will cause the issue that I had mentioned. By allowing too much slack, the bike definitely led to clutch slip. However, after taking up enough slack, my bike was hard to put in neutral. After research, I realized that if there's no slack in the cable, it will cause the bike to have a hard time setting it on neutral. So, I decided to slowly remove slack mm by mm and came to a point where my clutch is engaged an inch away from my grip.
I hope this helps for people here since all of us came here for help.
@@jwhimself1258 for sure! Thanks so much for the feedback, I'm sure that'll be useful information for a lot of people!
Helped me. Thanks man
Is this Hydrolic clutch ?? can i use this technique on my ordinary simple clutch too ?
No, this is just the standard clutch on the bike. I believe this setup is the same on most bikes, so provided you have the two nuts by the lever and the two at the clutch, the process should be very similar for you as well.
@@TheDesignerDan yeah in my bike i have same settings .. thanks for sharing this knowledgeable video. 👍
@@vivekjassi2405 Great! Happy to help. Thanks for watching! 😃
Not sure if fiddling with the clutch cable adjustemnt to give more slack is to blame but I noticed my cable is now almost fully shredded at the lever, so I need a new cable. Did anyone else with a NC750X have this problem?
I haven't had any problem like this. I'd look closely to see if one of the adjacent parts has a burr or something on it, or it'll shred your new cable too.
@@TheDesignerDan Yep, good point. Thanks!
Hi there, if i have a smaller hand, i should have more slack in my clutch lever to be more comfortable yeah?
Yes, but not too much. If you go too far, you might not fully engage the clutch when you pull the lever in.
Alternatively, you might be able to find aftermarket levers that sit closer to your hands.
Good video but I would suggest showing more images of the motorbike being fixed rather than the narrator speaking.
thats fuckong me on mt09
Just don't do it wrong and ride on it. Burn out the clutch and it'll cost ya.
Good advice.