Diesel Heater Waste Oil Conversion - (Part 1) Let's Talk About The Plan.
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2024
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Actual Description: In this video I test my heater running standing on end (heat pointing up) and then talk about my waste oil modification plans. - Авто та транспорт
I have a feeling we're going to make history here and we're all on the front seats! 😂
Dave McLuckie is also working on something similar... He might beat me to it, haha.
The race is on :) @@loweredexpectations4927
“I am pretty good at figuring things out but I am very forgetful” describes me so perfectly
There are lots of us out there, haha.
Drill and tap a hole in the outer casing large enough to get your endoscope through, that way you can look inside the burn chamber without disassembling the whole thing, bung the hole up with a bolt when in use.
lol... I thought you were going to say I would look in while it was running 🤣. Yeah... it would be nice to be able to see in there.
@@loweredexpectations4927 @DavidMcLuckie fitted a glass end to one of his heaters so he could see what was going on while it was running, 4 years ago. He has also tried waste oil.
Hey Joel if you're design works to burn the waste oil you can put me on the list to buy one. Keep up the good work thanks.
👍 We should know soon enough if it works at all...
Hopefully this will pan out! Gonna hire some cheerleaders rooting for you ; )
NICE !
Now that would be a good video!
@@KingofallDiffs 🤣
You are spot on by assuming that no matter what you do or how well you manage to burn waste oil you will always end up with solid ash type deposits after a few days at best. Every style of commercial waste oil burner I've ever seen suffers from hard carbon and ash build up and needs to be cleaned out.
Yeah... I've been through the ringer trying a million tests... mainly to satisfy critics that I'm "just not doing it right"... The only way is to have it easily cleanable or self cleaning.... but that is a challenge.
The original design of these heaters is horrible fro waste oils, as the area where the fuel comes in is so small, and clogs up so quickly.
I have watched all your videos on this heater, very entertaining and interesting. I have been running these since the beginning and was just waiting for somebody to do all these crazy modifications and experiments. Thanks for the great content- KEEP GOING I believe we will get er running on oil well!
Thanks for the comment and support ! Much appreciated.
Can you believe how much content can one make on a simple diesel heater? Very clever!
Best $200 investment I've ever made ! haha. I actually have 4 heaters now and a 5th one on the way from Amazon.... but who's counting.
@@loweredexpectations4927 you should hook up 3 or 4 to see if you can completely replace your house furnace.
I think what you are proposing with an added waste oil burner merits a try.
BTW, the Scottish youtuber you mentioned in your videos early on (David McLuckie) is also trying to build a waste oil burner using most of the parts from a diesel heater. He is using a hybrid controller that can control two pumps simultaneously. The more the merrier, I say!
Here's a thought on how you could have the ECU control both burns:
You could install two two way valves, one in the output line of the pump with one leg going to the primary diesel burner, and the other leg going to the waste oil burner line. Then install a two-way valve before the pump allowing you to select diesel or waste oil as a source. That way you would start with pump output valve set to the diesel burner, and the pump inlet two way valve set to diesel and run it that way until it gets up to temperature. Then once at temperature, change the pump inlet valve to waste oil, and turn the pump outlet valve to the waste oil burner. This way you could use the ECU to control both burns.
One other thought that occurred to me is that maybe you could include a few appropriately sized stainless balls in that "outer waste oil burn chamber" That might allow a person to unmount the heater and simply shake it a bunch and the steel balls would break up the ash and it could then simply be vacuumed out of the exhaust port? They use balls to mix stuff in cans of spray paint -- so maybe this could work for a while before it gets too clogged and requires a teardown?
Cheers from Oregon, USA
Philip
Thanks for the comment.
Yes, Dave and his viewers are a little more tech savvy than I am... He has ended up with a lot of electronics over the years.
I have been panning this basic mod for about a year now, but had been avoiding it, because my heater originally could not be stood on end. It was Dave's video that made me realize that I now have a chamber that can be stood on end.
The multi valve system could work, but ideally you don't want ANY waste oil to end up in the primary burn area, as it is extremely difficult to clean out (impossible) and any build up leads to a loss of performance. The switch over would lead to some waste oil in the primary chamber. It would also be ideal to have the diesel running for a few minutes to make sure the incoming oil doesn't cool the basket before it sustains its own burn.
Ooooo. I like the ball bearing idea.... that could not only actually work, but be a good indication of how clogged up you are. Very interesting.
I have a waste oil furnace in my shop. I must clean out the firebox at least once a year. I am on some drip fed waste oil burner groups on Facebook. You are on a great start. The final version needs to be easily cleaned because like you said there will be a lot of ash that will need to be cleaned.
Thanks for the comment ! Yeah, due to the size and geometry of the burn chamber on these, cleaning will have to be done quite frequently, in the best of cases. In the OEM configuration, they clog up and stop working in a matter of a few hours.
Joel,Zoltan here. If you want to burn used oil here’s a clue: Delavan 9-5
Yes... I have some of these and started work on a burn head last year. There are issues with misting fuel into these heaters... The main one being that the small volume, and fast burning mist, causes a pressure spike.
I will be playing with this more in the future.
I think directing an even airflow around the burn chamber is going to be key on keeping soot and buildup to a minimal. I can't wait to see what happens
Yes... I will likely have to incorporate a second baffle to contain / direct flow, just like in the oem chambe design.
Very interesting; I hope it works out for and you have something you can actually sell. It amazes me how many people come into the various FB Chinese Heater groups wanting to burn waste oil, so you definitely have a market out there.
This is sort of another stepping stone plan to my ultimate plan.... How this goes will determine the next step, but this could end up ebing a drop in part for others to use.... altho there still is the question of how to best switch from diesel to waste oil in a dependable way.
Well, as you already know, my experience from back in the day, when we still were allowed to heat our shops with the oil from our regular oil changes, cleaning was a daily job.
Of course, the heat output was a lot more, so more oil residues per day.
But it may not matter - if the weekly cleanout is easy, the daily will be even easier.
Yeah... The difference with these little heaters is that they burn about 8 litres in 24 hours of use, where that is about 2 hours of run time in a lot of big units. Of course, they have much more favorable chamber designs to allow crud to build without affecting the burn, and that is what I'm trying to do here.
The idea is to make a space where the crap can build up, without causing too much restriction. This design may not even fire up, but if it does there is over 4 times the space available compared to a stock burner.🤷♂️
It would be great to have a removable end cap on the exchanger that could be removed to clean it out...
Looking forward to seeing it in action.
Me too !
For your second "fuel" feed, you might consider using s second pump that is controlled by an adjustable timer. I think the pumps just work by pulsing them with 12v, so an adjustable "on off" cycle might make it easier to adjust the drips per unit time.
I'm not 100% sure what you mean. Do you mean to actually cycle the pump with the timer, or to have it switch over to oil with the timer ?
They do use a pulse, but it generally operates at 5 pulses a second at full heat. I'm sure there is a electronic dodadd that will do this, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I wonder... Peristaltic pumps won't work as a drop-in replacement for metering diesel, *but maybe* the pulse for the fuel pump could also run a peristaltic pump in parallel for the oil. You could then just fine tune the output of the peristaltic pump by adjusting the flow manually.
@@WaffleStaffel This is an option for sure. I'm sure there are plenty of electronics nerds that could make a device to ramp up and down based on fan speed or ECU input... but I like manual, for testing.
As in my Waste oil/veg oil Becket conversion, heating the oil to 150/160 makes it atomize much better.
Yeah... I'm using motor oil and it likes heat... Last year I ran a line through the fins on the exchanger (limited to 230C) . I didn't have any way to measure the temp of the oil where it went into the chamber, but it had to help.
Becket is a diesel furnace burner with a high pressure pump driving the fuel through an atomizer tip. I bought one about 20 years ago and they were getting hard to get then.
@@tjhouston4916 Yeah... there are lots of good options if you are handy orin the right spot at the right time... Many people have repurposed old oil furnaces systems and incorporate them into waste oil burners.
Sounds like another interesting idea. Good Luck Joel!
Should be fun.... might even work 🤷♂️ I have real concerns about the heater not wanting to run at all... we shall see.
Looking forward to seeing future videos I sure hope you get this it would save alot of money
It would be truly awesome to make something that people could make themselves or drop into their heater and allow them to burn waste oil in some practical sense.
I assume this isn't going to happen without a fight.
@@loweredexpectations4927 lol yes it will be a fight but I think you will be the man that gets this .
It really is a pretty cool design concept!
This one was a lot of fun ! I would really line to come back to this one at some point, even though I had some issues with how it ran, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Makes sense! I bet you have more ideas than time. Especially with heating season coming to an end hopefully soon.
I had a similar idea. I was going to use the burner itself to preheat a pan for a drip feed so it could be started and stopped by a thermostat/raspberry pi. Looking forward to your videos.
Awesome ! I have had many similar ideas... I have considered using the exhaust to flash off the oil, and only feed the vapours into the inlet. Something along those lines.
Wow! now there's a thought. If the exhaust was made into a coil as it leaves the chamber it could sit over a sealed pot of oil with a tube out the top and it wouldn't be far off the temps they use to distil the stuff anyway and the gases burn obviously and cleaner too, so once the thing is up to temp the drip feed could be turned off. Possible but my god to get it right would be a nightmare I would have thought.@@loweredexpectations4927
One major problem with burning used oil is that it contains microsolids (
Yeah... I have noticed, and had that confirmed by talking to many boiler techs and chemists. The idea with this is 1. To make sure the oil is hot enough to flash off and burn clean and 2. To give a place for the junk to build up without immediately causing a problem.
When I say "burn clean" I don't mean without deposits, I just mean without tons of smoke CO and carbon.
Hi Joel, love your channel. I have an idea that might make metering your drip rate easier... If you buy a cheap "handy little relay" off ebay or similar, you could cut the cables going to the fuel pump and connect through the normally closed contacts of the relay. Then have a switch or maybe a temperature switch, so that when it reaches 200°C it will switch over the pump supply to something for metering your waste oil drip rate. Possibly an electronic to open or a second fuel pump for for the oil? Your welsh fan, Owain.
Thanks for the comment.
That might work. I have had a few similar suggestions to this, but in less detail. The diesel may have to continue running either permanently, or for a few minutes while the oil gets into full swing.... but it may work if it is just switched over. Only testing will tell 👍
Use 2 fuel pumps and fuel tanks. One with oil and one with diesel. Run diesel to get it up to temp. Then unplug diesel pump and then plug in oil pump. In your previous video you showed us you don't get a fault when you unhook pump while running. So should be easy just switch fuel source.
Yeah.... This would likely work 90% of the time... My heater, after more testing sometimes will throw an error code.... Like it just woke up from a deep sleep is is like ... "hun.... um, what ! WHERE"S TH EFUEL PUMP !!! "
Doesn't make any sense, but I have had it error 3-4 times now. The other problem is that the basket will have a few seconds , at least where it is cooling off, and the incoming oil will cause cooling on the basket.... this might not matter, but it will almost certainly make for a very smoky switch over between diesel and oil.
Ideally the diesel will keep running for a few minutes whine the oil gets going.
This is getting really interesting...👍 from 🇸🇪
Thanks for the comment, and welcome !
The position of the flame initiation hole matters! I think by sealing it with JB weld and opening another hole relevant to the position of where the heater is mounted on is the key to the total freedom of degrees one could mount these heaters. This with some modifications like you're doing will open up new possibilities. 👍
Thanks for the comment ! Did you see my previous video ? "Diesel Heaters - Orientation Deep Dive - Heater Mounting Explained" I went over this in a little detail.
I do agree... You could plug this hole and make it in a new spot to give you more options.
ua-cam.com/video/8HAHE9qmrfI/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot I'm watching it now.@@loweredexpectations4927
My normal spiel: best oil mixture from experience is 40% very well filtered used oil / veggie oil, etc, 40 percent virgin diesel / kerosene / jet A / heating oil and 10% petrol. Mix well (mine siphons from 55 gal drum) run the exhaust always down or downward slope, with a fan blowing over 1 or 2 feet of exposed pipe, intake for new air AND combustion air is from indoors (easy when unit is inside too) Manifold a pure diesel etc tank in for startup and initial heating, switch to mix when running, run high temp as possible, switch back to diesel fir 5 min before shut down. Have had ZERO problem with ash or carboning up. Exhaust tip tends to be room temp so max heat scavenged.
I bought some veg oil and plan on testing your mix... I don't have high hopes... no offense.
If you have 2 pumps, you could use pump 1 for diesel and pump 2 for waste oil. Going through a relay NO & NC it could switch from pump 1 to pump 2 either based on temperature or just time. I don't think the ECU would notice the switchover. Should make startup and continuous run much easier.
Yeah, that could work, as long as the secondary burn starts up quickly and doesn't fool off too much during the switch over.... I'm probably going to keep the diesel going for the first tests to try to keep as much heat as possible. Then we will see if that idea works👍
Looking forward to what happens, fingers crossed here.
Thanks !!
Great content keep up the good work!
Thanks ! Much appreciated.
Awesome vid as usual
Thanks !
I can't wait to see how it works. I wouldn't worry about spiralling the air through the slotted tube, not sure if it makes any difference to the burn either, I found out there seems to be a cold spot in the centre of the vortex but that may have been my setup. Your system should work but it will have to burn very hot for oil to burn off as much crud as possible. The danger there is the aluminium head could melt :) The danger being over fuelling it, as long as you can keep it within the 5kw mark it should be ok ........maybe :)
Thanks for the comment. I think the idea of the spiraling is to try to contain the air / burning vapors in the chamber and mixing, instead of just sending them out the end.... These heaters use a baffle to do that as well, and I may have to incorporate a baffle.
I should be able to control the heat pretty accurately one i get things figured out... assuming it works at all👍
I think the slotted cylinder with the cone should officially be called the "shnozzle".
LOL... I like it.
If the oil doesn't burn well, in the well you're showing, i would suggest welding about a 1/4" concave plate on the top of your basket, and affix a thin layer of ceramic wool on it with a dab of stove cement to act as a wick.
Just throwing it out there.
Thanks for your suggestion. The hope / plan is that the fuel gets to the bottom of the basket, so that the hot gassed then interact directly with the air flowing into the basket.
What you say could also work, but we want to give the most time / space for the gasses to burn before exiting the tube.
What, no plan B? 🙃
Guess I can tell from your frozen jet ski video you go from plan A to plan A to plan A. 🤣😄🤣😂🤣
@@tjhouston4916 Haha... I have plans that extend beyond our alphabet ... but I'm trying to take it one step at a time.
Try using some washing up liquid and a minute amount of water to break the oils surface tension and water steam cleans a burn chamber...
That's one I haven't heard yet ! .... I have tried "cleaning oil" using spray 9 haha...👍 I now have this on my list of things to do .... eventually
If waste motor oil ends up causing too much carbon fouling, try drip-feeding some waste veg/fryer oil from one of the greasy spoons in town!
I have purchased some new oil, because regardless of how good I did at filtering, I would have 1000 people saying I didn't filter it enough, haha.
I plan on testing this in a few different ways, and if it works at all, then maybe collect some used stuff.
Keep on going 👌I like to watch the video's
Keep on keeping on🤟
finally, I think that to supply used oil to the system you need a gasoline car injector that you will control by a pulse generator
There may be a fuel injector from a small motorcycle or scooter that would work... Something with a little less flow would be ideal.
@@loweredexpectations4927 You can take any D jetronic injector that you will certainly find on an old engine. It works even with a fuel supply by gravity, no need for a pump
Just a tip: Why don't you take a look at a flamer-head of a diesel RC jet engine? these are built for maximum burn efficiency.... that might help you in designing a better-burning flamer. Also, misting heavy used motor oil is not going to work very well, in my opinion, unless you filter the used motor oil thoroughly
Using a cyclone is a good idea to mix enough oxygen with the fuel... good luck
P.S.: I just had a thought that, if you pre-heat the motoroil in a separate little container that sits right next to the burning chamber, you might evaporate it or even lower the necessary heat to keep it burning
The power went out in the middle of responding to your comment, and I lost it all.... Dang it !
Anything with precise geometry and small volume will be a problem when ash starts to build up. This is one of the main problems with the original burn chamber and one of the things that my modification attempts to change.
Preheating is a good idea, for sure. My system will somewhat automatically preheat the oil due to the way it will feed into the end if the heat exchanger. It will be using metal line and coupled with the exchanger where it is over 230C, so the fuel should get pretty hot before it drips in.
Thanks for the kitty. It's interesting but I don't see the exhaust of your system on the drawing but it is possible with an oil supply tube into the combustion chamber.
For my part, I always try to have aviation kerozene and I think I will have some soon
Thanks for the comment. The exhaust is in the same place it always is. The exchanger will not be modified except for a hole to drip the oil in. Aviation Kerosene is much better than waste oil, haha !
@@loweredexpectations4927 Mes hommages a Quazar , c'est un joli nom
@@gassereric Haha.. Thanks. Embarrassingly, despite my name being "Arseneault" I don't speak french. My father discouraged it, as he moved to an all english community when he was 12 and didn't know any english... Apparently he was traumatized by being french.
You do know what you're doing to yourself, right?
You've already shown you have lathe skills, and you can cobble random things together, we've seen it in all you videos.
Very soon, the burn chamber will not be the only thing you're worried about.
Soon, you are going to be expected to build a diesel heater from the ground up...light bulbs and all!
After that, start digging up dinosaurs, and making your own diesel!
HAHA... Full billet CDH .... except this time the "C" stands for "Canadian"
Joel, i have an idea for the combustion air preheat. Have the exaust pipe go inside a larger pipe then connect to the outer pipe for the combustion air. Similar to hi efficiency furnaces
With a long enough set of pipes, this would increase efficiency ... or shorter pipes made of copper or aluminum.
burn basket is a good name imo.
👍
I also am good at figuring things out and also have a terrible memory. 🤟🏻 So what about an intermediate water injection to create steam to clean the combustion chamber. There was an old car trick, back in the day we would take a spray bottle and spray a mist into the carburetor and it would free up all kinda of crap that would come out the tailpipe. Also if you pull a car engine with a bad head gasket apart, you'll see the cylinder with the leak is completely clean of carbon. Just a thought
I'm gonna stop watching if I don't hear a garaaage pretty soon. 😂🤣🤣🤟🏻🤟🏻👑🤟🏻👑
This has been suggested before, and it could work in this situation, somewhat... The issue is that the deposits need to have a place to go once they are broken up / released.
I doubt that they would be aerosolized ... not sure if that's the right word... small enough so that they were carried away in the exhaust gas flow.
Have you thought about using ceramic wool? I’ve made a very crap and basic drip feeder that drips oil onto wool and a fan blowing past to provide air.
I'm assuming the wool would be the wick ? WIth waste motor oil the wick would have to be replaced quite frequently, I assume. Any residu would be trapped in the wool.
I find as long as oil drips onto wool it keeps burning. Never had to replace the small bit I’m using with quite a few hours of burning. Don’t know if you could somehow hold it in middle of burn chamber, any ash created may fall away and get blown out. I maybe completely wrong but maybe something to try.
@@Encore1332 That is an interesting idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
I've been working on something similar
Cool. Any positive results ?... or have you done any testing ? I have run out of time, and the spring is here now, but I had some promising results with my newest "self cleaning" unit.
No real comment. Just doing my part! lol.
Much appreciated !
❤❤❤
Thanks.
I'm building a template to run the burn chamber and internal fan without the heat exchanger. Don't have an extra heater to cut the top off like David did.
I have thought of doing this, and that is kinda my idea with the propane tank, but I am curious to see if it will burn clean without the heat exchanger... The flame on David's seems to burn quite orange with the end off, and that indicates CO and that indicates carbon.
How are you planning to get rid of your fumes ?
It will be an open end at first, I'll add the larger heat exchanger afterwards. I think feeding from the top the oil will get to hot before it hits the bottom, boil in the tube..
@@kirkwalsh1932 That could work. I want to get a long (four feet or so) piece of aluminum pipe and turn that into the exchanger.... but as I always say, so many ideas, so little time. I currently have my heater running with 4.8 M of extra exhaust for a test... So that's one thing almost checked off the list, haha.
You will have more options this week when the larger heater arrives. I'm thinking about getting a second one to test with. Wife says I have to stop at 4 heaters though. Same with chainsaws, she stopped me at 4 of them. 😆
I wonder how those wabasto mesh pads would hold up as the drip pad for the waste oil... the small round replacement one's.
Commenting for algorithm ;b
#appreciated
'Liking' for some extra algorithmic giggidy.
@@tomasviane3844 Haha... Thanks !
Not sure the metering pump will pump enough oil for your propane tank heater. The oil heaters I have seen use a bit of oil.
Thanks for the comment.
Yes, with the exact component from a 5kw heater, you would be limited to around 5kw, this would work in a propane tank heater, but more would be better.
If you wanted to build something that made serious heat, the plan would be to use the ECU to operate a larger fan as well as a larger pump or multiple pumps.
The basic control system for the heater, glow plug start up, temp monitoring, overheat and flameout shutdown is really what you would want to retain from the original set up 👍
If you want to burn waste oil it must be free of solids, and preheated before going into the burn chamber or having a spray nozzle like in a oilburner
Proper filtration is ideal, but I have tried with new motor oil, preheated and that didn't work any better.
I actually built a SNA mist burn head last year and installed it into one of these heaters.
The mist solution is great but requires a chamber with a large volume. Spraying oil makes it burn much more rapidly, and this causes a pressure spike in a small volume. There are other problems with this as well, but that seems to be the main one.
Mist is great because it atomizes the fuel, and also means that your crud doesn't settle in one spot, like it will with any drip feed. Unfortunately, that is much much more difficult, if not impossible, in one of these heaters.
@@loweredexpectations4927 From my research new motor oil does worse than old motor oil since it contains additives that get used up while the engine oil is is in a car, however, you do end up with the byproducts which might be worse or better than having the additives but I think can be filtered out easier.
I wonder if it would be possible to pressurize the mist using a small air compressor with oil dripped in and the oil gets misted by the pressure. I found this video in my research it might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/2t38BwALhPk/v-deo.html
I appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos and I don't mind them being long at all!
@@sa3dxarmy Yeah, I did a bunch of research last year, and from what I could tell, the amount of leftover byproduct was way higher percent than the percent of additives. Meaning, after burning 2 litres of oil, the remaining mass of ash (not carbon) left behind was more than the percent of stuff in the additives packages.
Making low ash oil has become more of a goal for modern vehicles to both reduce emissions and stop emissions systems from being damaged / clogged up. In talking to a lady chemist that works for a oil company, she explained the procedure of flashing oil off at a specific temp in a controlled environment to measure the ash content... We had some interesting conversations, and I forget 99% of it... but the just of it is that even the highest quality base stock oils, without any additives packages, have stuff that cause ash.
She also explained stuff about oxides forming at specific temperatures.... Same fuel being burnt, but different temps mean different compounds are formed. Most of that is over my head.
Not sure if I already mentioned, but I did build a SNA (mist) burn head last year, and I do plan on doing more work on it in the future. It comes with a whole new set of challenges in itself, though the idea is very intriguing.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I do wonder if there's a way to make a controlled mist to be able to control it in a diesel heater chamber, almost like it needs to be pressurized and then "injected" like with a fuel injector of some sort. Maybe a mechanical fuel injector from an old diesel truck might be of use with some kind of "actual" fuel pump setup with actual pressurization. Might be able to control the misting of the oil and be able to burn it off properly, that being said, I don't know how much it would take to modify the diesel heater to make that possible, which it might make it more efficient at burning diesel (let alone oil) and use less fuel overall.
Converting to an actual fuel pump setup with just diesel and running the numbers might be worthwhile for efficiency experimentation.
@@sa3dxarmy This has been suggested to me several times. The bit that is really hard for people to grasp is the insanely small about of fuel these things consume, and therefore, the insane amount of precise control you need to have.
These pumps pump .022ml per stroke and run as little as 8 hz (less than one pulse per second). That is 1.06ml per minute. For comparison, a teaspoon is 5 ml, so 1 fifth of a teaspoon per minute. This is the reason these types of pumps are used. People hate the clicking and other quicks, but they are used on every heater because they offer precise variable control.
To make things much more complicated, when you dribble fuel into these heaters, it absorbs into a wick and burns off like a candle. When you mist fuel in, it burns almost instantly... This means. you can't pulse the fuel in, or the flame will actually go out between pulses unless you cycle the pump at a high rate. If you cycle the pump at a high rate, you then need each cycle to deliver even less fuel per pulse... and those are just a few of the issues, haha
I'm not saying this is impossible, just WAY more difficult than it may first seem.
I actually built a burn head using a SNA nozzle and installed it into my heater last year. I still have the burn head and plan on experimenting with it more.
Have you ever thought about putting an actual exhaust muffler somewhere inline in the exhaust pipe ??? edit... Maybe just put the end of the exhaust tube in an old car muffler, and maybe seal it with something, and see if it is noticeably quieter.
You know... not only would that quiet it , it would likely also act as a decent heat exchanger, if you had. large car muffler.🤔
Some stainless steel screen is one thing,but there is no way I can afford to ship a car muffler from Texas to Canada.😬@@loweredexpectations4927
Have you tried injecting HHO in the combustion air intake. It's supposed to help internal combustion engines.
I responded to your comment, but these liberal fuckheads at YT can't figure out the difference between describing a mechanical device having a issue with rapidly expanding gasses, and devices that are designed specifically to be dangerous....
I have experimented with HHO in the past, years ago, and it's not something that I am comfortable pumping into a heater due to its volatile nature. It may cause a rapid, unscheduled disassembly of my heater.
My tries of burning wmo showed, that tube that feeds oil cannot be in flame reach. Oil boils, leaves solids in tube and it get's clogged
That is awesome information to know ... thank you... Many people have told me to do this and I keep saying that the tube will get clogged ! haha.
My plan isn't to have a tube inside of the heater at all. The line in the drawing is just to show where I want the oil to drip / drop into. I am going to try dripping directly into the center at first, and go from there.
The oil feed line needs to go through the burn chamber before the oil go into the you diesel heater port , oil must be very hot In order to ignite, and burn clean
I have considered this. Positioning of the line could be an issue as if it gets too hot, you get crud building up in the line.
The whole idea of this is that the insert will be very hot due to the primary burn. The oil will then fall through the path of hot gasses exiting the burn tube, before landing on insert.
@@loweredexpectations4927
You could use thermostatic heater for the oil line if your afraid about the temp
If you look at kerosene stoves the fuel line runs though the burner flame first, and to start you need to heat it with alchohol
@@mechniack What I did last year was run a piece of brake line through the fins on the outside of the heat exchanger. This limits the temp to 230C (shut down at 236).
Diesel and kerosene are highly refined and don't leave much or any residue behind. You can heat them to the point of vaporizing and this works really well.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Right thought about that option sso not bad, however it's possible to refined waste oil to be without solids , and burn clean , it can even be refined to a kind of diesel ⛽ something to look into internet are full of those things 👍🤓
@@mechniack If I lived somewhere outside of the city, I think I would try my hand at refining waste oil.. not so much in the city limits, haha.
Hi, is it safe to operate the All In One inside with the exhaust and air intake outside ? I do have a carbon monoxide detector coming from Amazon. Thank you for your time.
Hello. Yes, if you have the exhaust installed properly, this is perfectly safe. Make sure you have hose clamps installed, that your exhaust doesn't burn anything and put your muffler outside.
It's also a good idea to make sure you don't have the exhaust exiting somewhat that it can blow back in or get sucked back inside your living space.
These heaters run extremely clean (low CO) if nothing is wrong, and all of that should be going out the exhaust pipe 👍
Would you be able to run the drip feed with the original clicker pump? Your idea of building a waste oil stove with diesel heater parts sounds a lot like mine I commented last week but you never responded 🤔
I don't have any comments showing as not responded to...🤔 odd.
Yes... If I build a waste oil burner, it will basically be a drip feed that is controlled by the OEM pump and ECU 👍 ... Or at least... this is one of my ideas.
Good video. I know some old school ways of breaking up carbon in engines is to mist water into the air intake when its up to temperature and running, also injecting steam in boilers is used to "blow soot". How about injecting small amount of water to bust out the soot? Either introduce water mist after the fan but before the burn chamber or drip feed a very small amount of water drops just after the atomizer (maybe 1 - 10%).
I'm positive I responded to this already ...🤔 I must have said something YT didn't like ... that's becoming more common every day.
This could work to break up the carbon. I don't' think it would work as well in a heater as an engine, as you don't have enough forces to carry the particles out of the heater, unless they are aerosolized.
I have actually tried this last year, but not in a scientific way.... just dripping water in now and then while monitoring temps to make sure they didn't drop too low. The problem with my testing last year was the never ending struggle to get the temps up in the main burn area..... It normally sits at around 150C. At 300- 400C my oil would burn clean (leaving deposits but no carbon and no smoke). Unfortunately, the build up would soon cause a restriction that caused temps to drop, and it all went south from there.
Misting water when running at 400+C could work, but it could also cause it to cool off too much and spiral out of control. To achieve 400C, I had to inject air from an air compressor, with the fuel.
can two pumps be run by using the feed off the primary pump to drive a relay to drive a second pump?
This is possible, but the ECU might freak out about any extra load / change in resistance.
running different-sized pumps does not affect it, so a small load to fire a relay that could drive 2 pumps should be ok? just a switch in line to each pump after the relay to control when you have them on.@@loweredexpectations4927
Are you going to host a midget coconut oil wrestling match in the garage?
Haha... probably, but that's on a different channel, haha.
Wondering if I should change the green fuel line on my Vevor heater ?
If you are installing it into a vehicle, or if you won't have easy access to it later, it's not a bad idea. I have been using the same stuff for over a year and haven't had any issues, other than overheating and burning some of it.
You are always better off with good quality fuel line, and you can get the proper hard line kits on Amazon for about $16 CAD.
Ok thx. Putting it in my 15x22 garage.
@@kevinfarrell6948 I'd say to check up on it every few months. Check for how stiff it is getting as well as checking for any leaks. WIthout being bumped around, it will likely be fine for many years.
How about having a switch between 2 fuel pumps?
That is possible, I have heard from a few people who do this while injecting into the same chamber... the issue with I may have with doing that, is that the second chamber may not be producing enough heat before the first chamber shuts off... this could cause the whole thing to flame out.
Ideally I can keep fuel going to the primary chamber while feeding fuel to the secondary, at least for a few minutes. We will see how it goes.
Waste engine oil contains a lot of metal and carbon that will burn in the feed pipe. We use a Waste oil burner at work ! The 1/2" pipe blocks up every few days. Sorry dude its too dirty
Yeah.. I don't plan on the line actually going into the chamber... it will attach to the outside of the exchanger. The arrows in my "drawing" were to show where the oil will end up.
It's not even a case of waste motor oil, as I did a few tests with brand new oil, and you get the same results. 99% of the issue is it is less refined.
Exactly, Used oils coke up after a while no matter what you do to them. Some systems are better than others but all eventually get plugged up with solids someplace.
@@tcmtech7515 For sure. it's all about how much oil you burn. Of course, some are worse than others, but diesel is diesel because all of this other crap is removed.
Are you trying to burn straight oil or mixing it to make black diesel? black diesel is a mix of 9 parts oil to 1 part gasoline for old diesel vehicles (I hear) and 7 parts oil to three parts gasoline for this kind of heater or so I have heard. Take all that with a chunk of salt because I'm just going off what I have seen and heard so I have ZERO EXPERIENCE.
Thanks for the comment !
In some of my early videos I experimented with all sorts of mix ratios. Most testing was done 70% WMO 25% diesel and 5% gasoline, but I also tried as low as 30% waste oil and other fuels.
Results in an engine are going to be quite different due to the extra volume and ... how do I say... physical agitation ...Deposits are encouraged to not hang round due to intense pressure, rapid flow of gasses, vibrations etc... In these heaters, it all just pools in one spot.
Why not just burn waste motor oil in something that isn't going to be clogged with ash after every run?
There are lots of reasons. A proper safe waste oil burner with user friendly controls is many thousands of dollars. They are also too large to be practical for a shed or green house, or even a backup heater for a house.
Most people are not skilled enough and or don't have the tools to build even a basic but clean burning waste oil heater. A lot of people live in places / rent places where they can't cut a hole for a chimney.
Most people don't live in an area where you can have a basic, big dirty, roaring waste oil burner, without annoying the neighbors or being fined. I personally do it because I already have two natural gas heaters (floor heater and hanging air heater), I can't justify taking up more space for another heater, and because I really enjoy tinkering and making videos.
Can one burn synthetic oil 🤷🏼♂️?
Yes... it takes a lot more heat to get it to flash off... so it's not as easy as conventional oil.... and conventional oil is not easy.
You may have problems with the brake pipe getting hot enough that the oil boils in the pipe
Yeah... I should have explained that better.. The line won't be in the heater, just terminated at the exchanger dripping in. Was it the arrows on the image? .... I probably said "into" instead of "to" ...
I will have it sticking in slightly, to make sure the oil doesn't 4 or 5 mm, just to make sure the oil doesn't run down the side of the exchanger. The exchanger should act as a heatsink to stop it from getting too hot.
@@loweredexpectations4927 O ok I'm not sure about that idea I'm imaging it with be to turbulent there to drip the oil down to wear you want it I'd be trying to get it in right to the bottom ether by insulating the feed pipe if it's coming down through the burn chamber or bring it in along side of the diesel
@@colinhamer6506 👍 I have considered the turbulence and think / hope that the velocity of the air isn't enough to really mess things up. My thoughts are that the exhaust area is less than 1" and the velocity isn't too fast even there.... that means coming out of the tube it should be a few times slower.
I'm hoping the exiting hot gasses will heat and possibly disperse the oil as it drips in... If it runs at all, it is going to be a real learning experience.
@@loweredexpectations4927 learning is the point 👍I don't think the way your going with this one has a chance of running without diesel
@@colinhamer6506 You could be right there. It will have to be hot enough heat up the basket and support its own clean combustion. Lots of people have suggested using two pumps and switching form one to the other, and I keep saying basically that..
I just finished a 4.8 meter exhaust test, and I really want to go test this with waste oil.. but I have to edit, and I may do a coconut oil or veg oil test first.
Just use dual pumps? And just turn on of and the other on 🤔🤷
That might work, but the ECU might freak out as soon as one is disconnected ... I think it will actually be okay on my heater, if I do it after running (as seen in my video running without a fuel pump) but sometimes it freaks out.
True, but it has to heat up before you change fuel any way so i think it will work 🤔 just one 2 way switch with 6 pins and you are set 🤷👌
Was thinking the same!
@@tobiasandersson3568 Yeah..... Absolutely, it could work.
@@tomasviane3844 This could totally work... However, fooling the electronics is only the first part of the battle. If the oil doesn't start burning immediately and make enough heat to be self sustaining, then it could flame out, or make a bunch of smoke.
First tests will be done with both diesel and waste oil at the same time.
DIY TurboJet Engine....
Personally, I want to make a pulse jet heater... but I don't think my neighbours would appreciate it.
Check out Jerry’s diy oil heaters
Thanks for the comment. There are LOTS of ways to make a waste oil burner... I have seen a bunch of his videos, and many others.
It's not hard to make a waste oil burner, if you are handy and have a decent tool selection, but it is hard to make a practical, compact, safe, push button waste oil heater.
The real idea here is to retain, as much as possible, the things everyone loves about diesel heaters, while allowing people to burn waste oil.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I like your idea of having the oil flow controlled with pump maybe with a switch over and use the original controller . Great videos and informative
@@phafinley3052 If I can get it to work at all.... then we can start worrying about the fine details. There are a few ways the switchover could take place... we should be able to collect some data on how sensitive it is when switching over... if it runs at all.
Instead of drilling heat exchanger you could go through exhaust hole and drill small hole in the side of the burn tube. Would be good for testing with out damage to the heat exchanger.
That could work I'm not too worried about drilling a hole as it will be threaded and I can plug it after. That is a creative solution though... I like it.
This guy is trying to do the same thing. He also has a in development twin pump ECU: m.youtube.com/@DavidMcLuckie
Might be helpful if you can get the hardware to work.
Yeah.... I have been following Dave for about a year now. Awesome videos. He is the reason I am trying this standing on end.... I was going to try in the normal orientation and making the feed in from the top.
I may try the top feed version as well.... we will see how this one goes.
Just run it on K-1 it burns Clean AF Do Not Do Any of this Bullshit !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL.... BORING !!! and expensive ...
just make a simple oil burner out of an old wood stove? or even better ger an old oil furnace..they have been around for 70 years, why reinvent the wheel
I have been asked this a lot. There are several good reasons.
That is not an option for most people. They generally don't have any safety systems. They work fine for a large shop, but are not idea for a greenhouse or a backup heater for your house. Personally I already have two heating system in my garage, floor heating and a hanging heater, so I can't justify another heater taking up a bunch of space.
The average person can't build a proper waste oil burner, especially not one that they can start with the bush of a button and forget about.
If I ever live outside of the city, you better believe I will have a big ass waste oil heater 🤟
I think he just likes to tinker.
@@aaronpeterson385 Also this.