How well I remember my Dads early Fords (E93A, E103E and 100E). All had vacuum tank powered windscreen wipers - hardly worked at all when the cars were struggling to climb hills, but went batshit crazy going down the other side!!!!
My Dads first car was an E93A Ford Popular. The brakes failed and we hit a dustcart which then towed us down the road for a couple of miles because we could not disconnect ourselves.
My ford pop which happens to be the same year did exactly the same thing. Turned out to be the battery connectors which I noticed straight away were the same ones I used to have (not happened since). The screws don't clamp the cables properly and hollow out the cable and although tight loses power.
I'm amazed no one else has noticed/commented. At 10:28, the sparkplug is very obviously damaged. The centre conductor is bent and out of line with the earth electrode. There is very likely a big chance that the ceramic is cracked because of this and the plug may well show a spark when out of the engine but will break down under compression as soon as you put it back in the engine. Put a new set of plugs in. Also, when you are running the engine with the lights on, the charging system is hardly keeping up. I would say you have an additional problem there too. The drive belt doesn't look very tight when the engine is running. Could it be slipping when you load up the dynamo?
Hi As an 1172 owner myself I have had the same problem as you many times .. The solution that always seems to work is the replacement of the condenser which is a push fit in the body of the distributor just below the cap . When it starts to breakdown electrically It works fine for a few miles then either losses power and stops / and/or refuses to start when warm .. By the time you start to troubleshoot its cooled down enough to restart , and whole fiasco repeats..! So for a sure result just change the condenser first then coil followed by plug's & points .. You have a really good car there so its a shame not to be able to enjoy it .. The choke is a new one on me but I suggest you disconnect the wire and check that the with the knob pushed fully in that the butterfly valve is vertical and its fully closed when pulled out then tighten the wire clamp screws .. Good luck and keep up the good work !!
Had exactly the same problem with my Anglia ( 105e), and yes it was the condenser , fine when cold, but as soon as it heated up it would fail and stop,
I brought a runner in the 70's for £35 quid. it broke down on a regular basis . it caught caught fire once in the high St . and the Tire place said that as the wheel rims were rusty they would no longer change the tires. in the end the clutch went and I bade it farewell . but I did love its wooden floor and that soft side valve Flat Head and the joke windscreen wipers and indicators and the permanently flat 6v battery . Also, I worked with an old chap that ran one for years and he sold it and brought a new Anglia but he admitted that he missed the old Ford . But I still have a soft spot for Old Side Valves !
Hey mate I put a note on your post of four weeks ago sorry I hadn’t seen this recent one sorry for your woes these were great cars upon which to learn. You are capturing a wide audience with plenty good suggestions we can all from a distance make suggestions the best one was beer time, yes thanks I think I will. Happy tinkering mate.......Rob
hi dave, unfortunatly i cannot give you any more advice than what has been given, as i am also having the exact problemswith my mk3 zephyr, ive done all the checks as you have ,even had the carb rebuilt, distributer also, and changed over to electronic ignition, still go the same problem ,im with you totally stumped.,
My father had one of these in the sixties. When the engine got to a certain temp it was impossible to start it again until it cooled down, i dont remember it cutting out while running though. He converted it to 12 volt and never had the no starting problem again.
Hello just watched your video I noticed that the fuel line is right next to the exhaust and it wrapped in silver foil,your problem sounds like fuel starvation try rapping the fuel pipe or rerouting it away from the exhaust.regards Andy.
Suggest you do a compression test when cold and another when it's hot and not starting. Compare the results. You've got a weak mixture which I guess is too tight tappet clearances or the manifold / carb gaskets leaking. Also check the carb base to see if it's warped.
Check all electrical conections [ clean ''''''& tight], especially behind dash at ignition. Also, try another petrol cap or make sure it is vented. I have an older American Ford, but the Pop looks to be built similar but much smaller.. Good Luck from NZ ; do not give up, they are simple .
Condenser on the distributor breaks down when hot common fault on the families first car back in 1954 Ford 8 model Y drove it for years back and forth to RAF camp Tangmere 120 miles each way never let me down
Carburettor repair kits do not include replacement jets for the simple reason that jets don't wear out - unless someone pokes bits of wire through them. Gaskets crush and tear, needle valves stick, mixture screws bend if over-tightened, and these were supplied. You got what you asked for.
May i make a suggestion.Gentle spray of WD40 on the coil contacts, and distributor cap. Start the old girl in the dark. If the coil or cap ignition are causing problems you will see the sparks tracking across the surface. This tracking can eliminate the spark when the car is under load. At the moment it is becoming a parts cannon. Eliminate one at a time.
I would suggest it is an electrical problem as it happens when it warms up. This is usually as something is breaking down. It could be the coil breaking down between the primary and secondary windings. I have this on another vehicle. Hope you manage to sort it out. All the best.
Hi Dave just watching your video i noticed that the fuel line is next to the exhaust manifold you’re problem maybe fuel starvation try rapping the fuel line or rerouting it away from the exhaust manifold regards andy
Could be. I've seen that happen before. Fuel vaporisation when the delivery pipe gets too hot. Let it cool down and off you go again. I don't remember them having lagged fuel pipes when new.
Hi Dave. Do you write down all the steps you take and the outcomes ? Just a thought. One thing , may I suggest is the wiring as a whole. If the harness is original ( often with many upgrades over the years ), there could be many intermittent issues. I always rewire an old car ( or bike ) so I can forget any lurking bad connections. I'm getting my 'new ' 58 Cambridge soon. 1st job ? Rewire, a section at a time. Also I put Dynamator in my Somerset. All the best. Colin.
I keep a log of what I've done, I don't just fire the parts cannon at it, I appreciate all the comments and read them all. I just need the weather to improve
I had one in the '60s. A weak point was a tired fuel pump, which caused a no start when hot. Pouring cold water on the pump overcame the vapour lock and it would start. Just a possibility.
Take the intake manifold off, check it carefully for any potential air leaks. Check that the flanges are square and in good condition. Repair if necessary and refit with new gasket 🙂
I see your fuel pipeline is copper and wrapped in foil , why would that be as the fuel could be evaporating in the heat, remove for a steel replacement might help, also start at the fuel source IE drain and clean the tank, then worry about the carb, also change the coil as they are cheap,
Hello! You need to take the carb off and have a look. When you manually pushed the choke in on the engine side and the engine stalled that should not happen. My Riley has a Zenith 36VH carb similar to yours but bigger. My guess is the choke has been messed with. There should be a spring somewhere when you take it to bits it looks as if it is broken or not there. Have a do and take it to bits see what you find and give me a shout Cheers John
A s soon as it stops take the float bowl off. No petrol then take off fuel pomp and check. If petrol take float bowl home. On a clean surface undo the screws that holds the beak on. The beak injects fuel into the airflow. You will find a gasget and a maze of fuel chanel's and holes. I expect these are blocked. Ginit a good clean and reassemble. T here might be a new gasget in your kit. The coke is in fact an independent crude carb which delivers a rich mixture. When you close it main carb is not taking over. All the important bits of theZe ith are attached to the float bowl. I have fitted a Beetle cab and inch and a quarter SU too these engines. Downdraught SUs are rare.Use same needle as a Triumph Spitfire.
I had a 1954 Ford "Pop" my very first car. I paid £19:10s for it and ran it for over 30,000 miles most of that without a starter motor because a garage damaged my starter ring gear good old starting handle!! I made the mistake of trading it in for a 1958 Standard super eight, a car that car did 30 miles to the gallon of petrol and 50 miles to the gallon of oil! Ah, the joys of motoring in the sixties!
Right, I've tried to follow this for a while and I'll make the following suggestion. The car, when new would have been positive earth and I'm guessing that it still is. When I was looking the other week I noticed that the Bosch coil seemed to have the distributor lead connected to the negative terminal. The distributor lead ( I.E. from the coil to dist. ) should comply with the vehicle earth, thus should be connected to the positive side of the coil. When the car was new it would have been marked CB - contact breaker and SW - switch. People used to swap the earth over sometimes to fit radios and other stuff. It varies from car to car. Sometimes it wouldn't run, sometimes it would run badly, sometimes it made no difference and sometimes the car would pack up for no reason and not re-start until cooled down. ( see where I'm going) Also bear in mind that you are only dealing with 6 volts so the minute there's any sort of load it will falter. As the other chap mentioned you may get a spark with the plug not fitted but under running conditions it will break down. The bad news is that once the coil has over heated a few times it will start to break down so you will need to replace the coil with a quality item. And for peace of mind the condenser too. I've also known the voltage regulator to be involved in this but to be fair it does seem to charge ok. This problem has cropped up a few times over the years and when servicing cars I now always check this as a matter of coarse. To sum up electric does flow from positive to negative ( as people are always quick to point out ) but not when you're positive earth. Also, carb. parts have always been a bit pricey so don't be too put off. The fuel gauge I would think isn't earthing to the car properly.
Cars never stop for no reason . They need three things ,compression,fuel,spark . Always get good spark before touching anything else . On the 6v system everything must be perfect ,not ok but perfect .
Condenser failing? As an idea, why not get a decent large condenser, attached to an old crocodile clip, with wiring , to stand in for the car's condenser, when it fails? Just as a way of checking it? There is an issue with the quality of some electrical components these days, which probably didn't exist, ''back in the day?'' Also possible there's a vacuum leak under the carb? This will cause the engine to stop when the choke is pushed in. Also there can be a vacuum issue with the wiper tank, or the hose connecting it? Another issue could relate to the hot sport on the inlet/exhaust manifold. They can rust through, and there's a gasket between inlet & exhaust manifold which can start to fail as well. Are you a member of the FSOC, by any chance?
A few years ago, I bought a new Distributor for my Beetle. A Condenser was attached. After a few days, the engine started playing-up, then refused to run! I spent hours, trying to get the engine right. Guess what? It turned out to be a faulty Condenser (brand-new). Everything was sweet after changing it.
After you prime it it runs then cuts out when the carburettor float bowl empties. Seems like your carburettor float height is set so that the fuel inlet jet is closed off. When you prime it i am assuming that this mechanically forces the float open and this is what primes the carburettor. Better known as a tickler.
Frustrating, we have all been there. My money is still an ignition/ coil issue. It gets warms, spark degrades, engine stops. I doubt a fuel issue as there would be faltering, maybe a spit back and it wouldn't recover when the engine has cooled unless the tank couldn't breathe and was under vacuum. (Also check the wiper vacuum pipes and wiper switch mechanism, if any leakage you will get poor running. I thought the exhaust note sounded a bit splashy at idle like a weak mixture). If you test the spark immediately after the engine has stopped you may see a weak spark. But the plug has to spark when under pressure in the cylinder and a weak spark won't be able to do that. When testing cold, try it with a much bigger spark gap, get an old plug and bend the outer terminal back, the plug should spark from the centre to the outer body, about 4mm. If not then there is an ignition problem. You also said a few videos back that when you turn the lights on the engine stops, so either the battery is duff, though it sounds strong when turning the starter, or there is a fault with the dynamo or the coil where it needs full voltage. Did you try turning the lights on when on higher revs so the dynamo is charging? Did the engine stop then? The dynamo should produce a few volts higher than 6 volts. As it is a dynamo they are not good at low revs like alternators so will not cope with lights on at idle, thus the lights are starving the ignition system of charge. It could be that when the choke is out, the engine is revving above idle speed, when you push it in, the engine speed drops and the spark fails then. You have changed the coil but even new ones can be faulty, try a known good one of the correct voltage. I have a BSA three wheeler and I found that when driving the engine started to cut out at low revs. It was simply a duff 6v battery not producing spark when the dynamo was below working speed. Maybe try running it with a battery charger connected, that should tell you if that is the area you should be looking at. You may know all of this, apologies if so, just a few suggestions.
Are you a member of the relevant owner's club for the car? If not I would seriously urge you to join. They will be able to offer technical advice and will be aware of all the gremlins associated with 103E Populars. They may well have a stock of the parts needed to fix your problem.
When it gets like that it's time to go and have a beer ! All of us in the classic car world face these issues regularly. Don't forget when these beauties rolled off the production line they were only expected to last 10 years. Now, 60, 70 or 80 years later we are expecting them to perform under all conditions with worn parts. If you have replaced ALL the electrical components including the coil and condenser, I would confirm that you have good output from the dynamo and that the ignition switch and battery terminals are all OK. I would then strip the carburetor and fuel pump, soak them in thinners then blow every jet and capillary with compressed air. While you're at it , blow through the fuel line. That should eliminate most of your problems
How well I remember my Dads early Fords (E93A, E103E and 100E). All had vacuum tank powered windscreen wipers - hardly worked at all when the cars were struggling to climb hills, but went batshit crazy going down the other side!!!!
My Dads first car was an E93A Ford Popular. The brakes failed and we hit a dustcart which then towed us down the road for a couple of miles because we could not disconnect ourselves.
My ford pop which happens to be the same year did exactly the same thing. Turned out to be the battery connectors which I noticed straight away were the same ones I used to have (not happened since). The screws don't clamp the cables properly and hollow out the cable and although tight loses power.
I'm amazed no one else has noticed/commented. At 10:28, the sparkplug is very obviously damaged. The centre conductor is bent and out of line with the earth electrode. There is very likely a big chance that the ceramic is cracked because of this and the plug may well show a spark when out of the engine but will break down under compression as soon as you put it back in the engine. Put a new set of plugs in. Also, when you are running the engine with the lights on, the charging system is hardly keeping up. I would say you have an additional problem there too. The drive belt doesn't look very tight when the engine is running. Could it be slipping when you load up the dynamo?
Hi As an 1172 owner myself I have had the same problem as you many times .. The solution that always seems to work is the replacement of the condenser which is a push fit in the body of the distributor just below the cap .
When it starts to breakdown electrically It works fine for a few miles then either losses power and stops / and/or refuses to start when warm ..
By the time you start to troubleshoot its cooled down enough to restart , and whole fiasco repeats..!
So for a sure result just change the condenser first then coil followed by plug's & points ..
You have a really good car there so its a shame not to be able to enjoy it ..
The choke is a new one on me but I suggest you disconnect the wire and check that the with the knob pushed fully in that the butterfly valve is vertical and its fully closed when pulled out then tighten the wire clamp screws ..
Good luck and keep up the good work !!
Thank you, can you recommend a good supplier for the condenser?
Had exactly the same problem with my Anglia ( 105e), and yes it was the condenser , fine when cold, but as soon as it heated up it would fail and stop,
I brought a runner in the 70's for £35 quid. it broke down on a regular basis . it caught caught fire once in the high St . and the Tire place said that as the wheel rims were rusty they would no longer change the tires. in the end the clutch went and I bade it farewell . but I did love its wooden floor and that soft side valve Flat Head and the joke windscreen wipers and indicators and the permanently flat 6v battery . Also, I worked with an old chap that ran one for years and he sold it and brought a new Anglia but he admitted that he missed the old Ford . But I still have a soft spot for Old Side Valves !
Hey mate I put a note on your post of four weeks ago sorry I hadn’t seen this recent one sorry for your woes these were great cars upon which to learn. You are capturing a wide audience with plenty good suggestions we can all from a distance make suggestions the best one was beer time, yes thanks I think I will. Happy tinkering mate.......Rob
Loose wire or faulty ignition switch?
hi dave, unfortunatly i cannot give you any more advice than what has been given, as i am also having the exact problemswith my mk3 zephyr, ive done all the checks as you have ,even had the carb rebuilt, distributer also, and changed over to electronic ignition, still go the same problem ,im with you totally stumped.,
My father had one of these in the sixties. When the engine got to a certain temp it was impossible to start it again until it cooled down, i dont remember it cutting out while running though. He converted it to 12 volt and never had the no starting problem again.
Hello just watched your video I noticed that the fuel line is right next to the exhaust and it wrapped in silver foil,your problem sounds like fuel starvation try rapping the fuel pipe or rerouting it away from the exhaust.regards Andy.
Have you tried starting it with the fuel filler cap off? There's usually a breather hole in the cap. Maybe it's blocked.
It's about the only thing I have not tried, I'll give it a go
I learned how to drive in one of thies back in the mid 60ts 👍
Hi m8. Have you tried running a wire from rhe battery to the coil to eliminate ignition switch and wiring
As soon as the weather improves, that is on the list of things to do, thank you 😊
Suggest you do a compression test when cold and another when it's hot and not starting. Compare the results. You've got a weak mixture which I guess is too tight tappet clearances or the manifold / carb gaskets leaking. Also check the carb base to see if it's warped.
Check all electrical conections [ clean ''''''& tight], especially behind dash at ignition. Also, try another petrol cap or make sure it is vented. I have an older American Ford, but the Pop looks to be built similar but much smaller.. Good Luck from NZ ; do not give up, they are simple .
Thank you, I'll keep going with it
Condenser on the distributor breaks down when hot common fault on the families first car back in 1954 Ford 8 model Y drove it for years back and forth to RAF camp Tangmere 120 miles each way never let me down
Carburettor repair kits do not include replacement jets for the simple reason that jets don't wear out - unless someone pokes bits of wire through them. Gaskets crush and tear, needle valves stick, mixture screws bend if over-tightened, and these were supplied. You got what you asked for.
It might be worth checking the ignition timing and fuel mixture.
.
Vapour lock.
I had an old Vauxhall that would not start when it was hot, I fitted a new fuel pump and all was good after.
May i make a suggestion.Gentle spray of WD40 on the coil contacts, and distributor cap. Start the old girl in the dark. If the coil or cap ignition are causing problems you will see the sparks tracking across the surface. This tracking can eliminate the spark when the car is under load. At the moment it is becoming a parts cannon. Eliminate one at a time.
I would suggest it is an electrical problem as it happens when it warms up. This is usually as something is breaking down. It could be the coil breaking down between the primary and secondary windings. I have this on another vehicle. Hope you manage to sort it out. All the best.
Hi Dave just watching your video i noticed that the fuel line is next to the exhaust manifold you’re problem maybe fuel starvation try rapping the fuel line or rerouting it away from the exhaust manifold regards andy
Could be. I've seen that happen before. Fuel vaporisation when the delivery pipe gets too hot. Let it cool down and off you go again. I don't remember them having lagged fuel pipes when new.
@@rickshaw2779 good evening rich,with all respect fuel was a better product in those days .good luck .Andy.
Hi Dave. Do you write down all the steps you take and the outcomes ?
Just a thought.
One thing , may I suggest is the wiring as a whole. If the harness is original ( often with many upgrades over the years ), there could be many intermittent issues.
I always rewire an old car ( or bike ) so I can forget any lurking bad connections.
I'm getting my 'new ' 58 Cambridge soon. 1st job ?
Rewire, a section at a time.
Also I put Dynamator in my Somerset. All the best. Colin.
I keep a log of what I've done, I don't just fire the parts cannon at it, I appreciate all the comments and read them all. I just need the weather to improve
I also have a 58 cambridge, "you can rely on an Austin " happy motoring!
Seen loads of laurel and hardy films,they all seem to be like this 😊
Is there a float hight you can adjust?
I had one in the '60s. A weak point was a tired fuel pump, which caused a no start when hot. Pouring cold water on the pump overcame the vapour lock and it would start. Just a possibility.
Take the intake manifold off, check it carefully for any potential air leaks. Check that the flanges are square and in good condition. Repair if necessary and refit with new gasket 🙂
Looks like a water leak from head , possible head gasket , regular problem with side valves ?
That was from a old leaking head gasket which was replaced by the previous owner
I see your fuel pipeline is copper and wrapped in foil , why would that be as the fuel could be evaporating in the heat, remove for a steel replacement might help, also start at the fuel source IE drain and clean the tank, then worry about the carb, also change the coil as they are cheap,
As has already been suggested, it is showing symptoms of fuel vaporisation. Somewhere the fuel is getting hot?
Hello! You need to take the carb off and have a look. When you manually pushed the choke in on the engine side and the engine stalled that should not happen. My Riley has a Zenith 36VH carb similar to yours but bigger. My guess is the choke has been messed with. There should be a spring somewhere when you take it to bits it looks as if it is broken or not there. Have a do and take it to bits see what you find and give me a shout Cheers John
A s soon as it stops take the float bowl off. No petrol then take off fuel pomp and check. If petrol take float bowl home. On a clean surface undo the screws that holds the beak on. The beak injects fuel into the airflow. You will find a gasget and a maze of fuel chanel's and holes. I expect these are blocked. Ginit a good clean and reassemble. T here might be a new gasget in your kit. The coke is in fact an independent crude carb which delivers a rich mixture. When you close it main carb is not taking over. All the important bits of theZe ith are attached to the float bowl. I have fitted a Beetle cab and inch and a quarter SU too these engines. Downdraught SUs are rare.Use same needle as a Triumph Spitfire.
Try taking your fuel cap off because you may be creating a vacuum in the tank if that works you need a little pinhole in your fuel cap
Had a similar problem turned out to be a faulty coil
I had a 1954 Ford "Pop" my very first car. I paid £19:10s for it and ran it for over 30,000 miles most of that without a starter motor because a garage damaged my starter ring gear good old starting handle!! I made the mistake of trading it in for a 1958 Standard super eight, a car that car did 30 miles to the gallon of petrol and 50 miles to the gallon of oil! Ah, the joys of motoring in the sixties!
Right, I've tried to follow this for a while and I'll make the following suggestion. The car, when new would have been positive earth and I'm guessing that it still is. When I was looking the other week I noticed that the Bosch coil seemed to have the distributor lead connected to the negative terminal. The distributor lead ( I.E. from the coil to dist. ) should comply with the vehicle earth, thus should be connected to the positive side of the coil. When the car was new it would have been marked CB - contact breaker and SW - switch. People used to swap the earth over sometimes to fit radios and other stuff. It varies from car to car. Sometimes it wouldn't run, sometimes it would run badly, sometimes it made no difference and sometimes the car would pack up for no reason and not re-start until cooled down. ( see where I'm going) Also bear in mind that you are only dealing with 6 volts so the minute there's any sort of load it will falter. As the other chap mentioned you may get a spark with the plug not fitted but under running conditions it will break down. The bad news is that once the coil has over heated a few times it will start to break down so you will need to replace the coil with a quality item. And for peace of mind the condenser too. I've also known the voltage regulator to be involved in this but to be fair it does seem to charge ok. This problem has cropped up a few times over the years and when servicing cars I now always check this as a matter of coarse.
To sum up electric does flow from positive to negative ( as people are always quick to point out ) but not when you're positive earth. Also, carb. parts have always been a bit pricey so don't be too put off. The fuel gauge I would think isn't earthing to the car properly.
Thank you for your reply, I'll try your suggestions.
Vapor lock, stops the pump pumping fuel .
You tested the pump cold, ? Of course it will work, it's vapor lock.
Pump was tested while the engine was hot right after the engine stopped
Cars never stop for no reason . They need three things ,compression,fuel,spark . Always get good spark before touching anything else . On the 6v system everything must be perfect ,not ok but perfect .
Condenser failing? As an idea, why not get a decent large condenser, attached to an old crocodile clip, with wiring , to stand in for the car's condenser, when it fails? Just as a way of checking it? There is an issue with the quality of some electrical components these days, which probably didn't exist, ''back in the day?''
Also possible there's a vacuum leak under the carb? This will cause the engine to stop when the choke is pushed in. Also there can be a vacuum issue with the wiper tank, or the hose connecting it? Another issue could relate to the hot sport on the inlet/exhaust manifold. They can rust through, and there's a gasket between inlet & exhaust manifold which can start to fail as well. Are you a member of the FSOC, by any chance?
Thank you, I am a member
A few years ago, I bought a new Distributor for my Beetle. A Condenser was attached. After a few days, the engine started playing-up, then refused to run! I spent hours, trying to get the engine right. Guess what? It turned out to be a faulty Condenser (brand-new). Everything was sweet after changing it.
After you prime it it runs then cuts out when the carburettor float bowl empties.
Seems like your carburettor float height is set so that the fuel inlet jet is closed off.
When you prime it i am assuming that this mechanically forces the float open and this is what primes the carburettor. Better known as a tickler.
Frustrating, we have all been there. My money is still an ignition/ coil issue. It gets warms, spark degrades, engine stops. I doubt a fuel issue as there would be faltering, maybe a spit back and it wouldn't recover when the engine has cooled unless the tank couldn't breathe and was under vacuum. (Also check the wiper vacuum pipes and wiper switch mechanism, if any leakage you will get poor running. I thought the exhaust note sounded a bit splashy at idle like a weak mixture). If you test the spark immediately after the engine has stopped you may see a weak spark. But the plug has to spark when under pressure in the cylinder and a weak spark won't be able to do that. When testing cold, try it with a much bigger spark gap, get an old plug and bend the outer terminal back, the plug should spark from the centre to the outer body, about 4mm. If not then there is an ignition problem. You also said a few videos back that when you turn the lights on the engine stops, so either the battery is duff, though it sounds strong when turning the starter, or there is a fault with the dynamo or the coil where it needs full voltage. Did you try turning the lights on when on higher revs so the dynamo is charging? Did the engine stop then? The dynamo should produce a few volts higher than 6 volts. As it is a dynamo they are not good at low revs like alternators so will not cope with lights on at idle, thus the lights are starving the ignition system of charge. It could be that when the choke is out, the engine is revving above idle speed, when you push it in, the engine speed drops and the spark fails then. You have changed the coil but even new ones can be faulty, try a known good one of the correct voltage. I have a BSA three wheeler and I found that when driving the engine started to cut out at low revs. It was simply a duff 6v battery not producing spark when the dynamo was below working speed. Maybe try running it with a battery charger connected, that should tell you if that is the area you should be looking at. You may know all of this, apologies if so, just a few suggestions.
Thank you for your reply, lots to think about.
When we get a break in the weather I'm going to go through all the suggested fixes.
Change the ignition coil. I have been caught before.
Change the coil happy motoring
Are you a member of the relevant owner's club for the car? If not I would seriously urge you to join. They will be able to offer technical advice and will be aware of all the gremlins associated with 103E Populars. They may well have a stock of the parts needed to fix your problem.
I am a member of FSOC.
When it gets like that it's time to go and have a beer ! All of us in the classic car world face these issues regularly. Don't forget when these beauties rolled off the production line they were only expected to last 10 years. Now, 60, 70 or 80 years later we are expecting them to perform under all conditions with worn parts. If you have replaced ALL the electrical components including the coil and condenser, I would confirm that you have good output from the dynamo and that the ignition switch and battery terminals are all OK. I would then strip the carburetor and fuel pump, soak them in thinners then blow every jet and capillary with compressed air. While you're at it , blow through the fuel line. That should eliminate most of your problems
Thank you for taking the time to post this comment. Trust me, quite a few beers have been drunk.
Fule vaporisation when it gets hot.
Bad earth on the coil
Head gasket
wont prove it wont start will u
Ugliest car ever made
Have you not seen the Fiat Multipla? I'm sure that deserves that credit 😂
See: Pontiac Aztek
Oh yes, that is an aesthetically challenged vehicle. I just googled it 🤢@flatheadV8