2014-2018 Jeep Cherokee front strut replacement
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- Other videos on this same Jeep:
Rear shock replacement: • 2014-2019 Jeep Cheroke...
Rear brake job: • 2014-2020 Jeep Cheroke...
There are 3 issues that would make me suggest replacement. The first is if you see oil leaking out of them, around the base of the shiny rod, where the seal is. The strut body will just be wet with oil in this area. You won't have a puddle on the ground or anything. This is of course visible failure.
The second is that you experience a pogo effect when driving over bumps in the road. The vehicle continues to bounce up and down after you've past the pump. This would be both front and/or both rear going bad at the same time.
The third would be if you experience weird / scary vehicle movements when driving at highway speeds, around slight bends in the road, while hitting bumps. I know, that's a complicated scenario to imagine, sorry. I have experienced that scenario many times. The feeling is instability and you feel the need to try and correct it with steering inputs. It can be hard to put your finger on what's going on, but you know if feels very unsafe. This is caused by a single rear and/or a single front that has failed. This is the hardest one to diagnose, but when you swap them out you discover one is really bad.
If you aren't experiencing any of those issues you are probably fine for now.
Complete strut assemblies for AWD: amzn.to/3oyD1Bb
Complete strut assemblies for FWD: amzn.to/3KWYJGn
Pinch bolt: 77ft-lbs
Ball Joint: 22ft-lbs + 95 degrees
Sway bar end link: 22ft-lbs
Axle nut: 148ft-lbs
lug bolts: 100ft-lbs
Torque wrench I'm using in this video:
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...
0:00 Objective
1:02 lubing up parts
1:32 removing the brake hose and ABS wire
1:57 removing the sway bar end link
2:35 loosening the pinch bolt
2:59 removing the axle nut
3:28 removing the lower ball joint
4:50 swinging the knuckle out
5:50 removing the upper retainer
6:49 old parts swapped, test fit issue
8:32 installing the strut assembly in to the tower
9:11 installing the new strut into the knuckle
10:32 reconnecting the CV shaft, lower ball joint, sway bar end link
12:31 installing the pinch bolt
12:58 reinstalling the brake hose and ABS wire
13:50 install wheel
14:16 wrap-up
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. For your convenience, I try to post links to everything I use in the video description. That's part of how I cover the costs of this channel. I appreciate your support buy using these links!! - Наука та технологія
I was going to do it myself lol but I’m not a mechanic and I don’t anything I just learn from you on this video
At least you know what to expect before you try! Thanks for watching!
This video does more than just save time & money, it simplifies the steps to the point where I felt comfortable doing this repair. I really appreciate the effort that went into making this video. I would've NEVER attempted this repair without it. The $ saved by doing this myself allowed me to buy the rear shocks. Thank you, you really helped me!
You’re welcome Jason! Thanks for leaving the great feedback!!
If you hadn’t seen it yet, I do also have a video covering the rear shock replacement. :)
ua-cam.com/video/nKW0QvDqXMg/v-deo.html
You saved my life, thank you!
:) you’re welcome!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the E14 explanation.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
8:50, I never thought I'd ever see a plastic retaining ring to secure the top of a strut on any car. Way to go Jeep lol. Thank you for the in-depth process to doing these struts. May take me a little longer as I'll be on the ground.
No kidding, the plastic retainer seems like a terrible idea.
Probably will take longer on the ground but at least you know what your in for.
Thanks for watching!
Pry why they go bad so easy
Great video was there a very noticeable difference in the ride and cornering after the swap? Thanks
You do a good job explaining things. It makes me feel like I can do this job. Have a question. The little tabs that lock the CV axle nut. Did you pry them out or just zip through them?
Thanks Bondo! It’s not necessarily a hard job, but parts of it can be a struggle. Getting the bottom of the strut out of the knuckle and the new one back in the knuckle will probably be the hardest part. The other side went really easy though.
On the axle nuts, I just put the impact on them and zip them out. I’ve never had an issue doing it that way.
Nice video buddy, I’m doing the same job today but ball joints as well, both sides struts and ball joints 🤦♂️ your video helped me 👍
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!!
@@bennieaust only problem I’m having is getting the strut back into place and locking the plastic clips at the top 🤦♂️
@@92mrhonda try putting a floor jack under the control arm or ball joint to lift up the whole assembly and hold the strut up in place while you try to install the clip.
@@bennieaust gotter done
Great video! Did my jeep front and rear today.
Would you happen to have a video on replacing the driver side door lock actuator?
Thanks Mike! I don’t have a door lock actuator video. Sorry.
Excellent job. Thank you. Just didn't catch the torque on the axcel nut. Homework exercise 😂.
It’s in the description! :)
Video is great, just swapped out both struts easier than expected!
Thanks Mark!!
Great to hear!!
FYI. I did this and after removing the speed sensors , every single dash light came on including service transmission. It was in limp mode. Jeep tried to tell me to buy a new transmission 😂. I took it to a transmission shop and had them reset the vehicle which Jeep should have done. It works fine now.
I’ve seen this happen if the vehicle was turned on while a sensor was disconnected or something like that. Wouldn’t expect it in your situation, but I guess it did. :(
Just resetting it obviously was the solution and I agree the dealer should have done that first.
Reset as in proxi alignment?
@@sbond1963 , reset as in clear all the codes.
@@sbond1963 Yes.
I like the tips you offered from a former tech I would replace the ball joints with the new struts being the ball joint is most likely worn out. So you’re replacing part of problem.
Thanks for your added advice!
Would you recommend changing just one side if it’s bad? Or would I have to replace both driver and passenger shocks? (Only the passenger shock needs replacing on my wife’s Jeep Cherokee) Thanks! -Alex
You should replace a pair at a time. Both fronts or both rears.
@@bennieaust gotcha thank you
@@slaying4fun you’re welcome
How much do you need to pay attention to orientation of the top strut hat when installing? Its angled to a degree, and do i need to make sure its facing one way or another?
It doesn't need to be a certain way. It's not keyed or directional.
I assume you reused all bolts, even on the hub? I have steel retainer clips for the struts this go around but I’ve never done suspension so this will be a learning experience haha Ihave a tourer wrench for my lugs but I’ll be getting the Pittsburg you’re wrench and their metric 1/2 drive deep socket set. Think that’ll be good to go?
Yes, you should be good to go with that. I think Jeep may say replacement of some bolts is required. Generally with torque-to-yield bolts that’s what they say. I reused all the bolts, but you can make your own call on that.
@@bennieaust i was watching another video on these jeeps suspension by the worst aftermarket parts company for these cherokees-MFC. Stay far away from them, the owner is a sleeze ball, stolen designs and no support. But, as he usually does, said the axle nuts and the bolt and nut for the part on the knucle that pinches the strut are 1 time use haha i got some axle nuts to be safe but the guys at jeep said you can technically re use both unless the axle nut is really smashed up from multiple changes. Thank you for the video, this is hands down the best video ive found for changing the front end out-ill have to find your rear shock video for when i finish the front. Got caught up looking at properties and now its going to be a late night😂 ill be putting some thread locker on the nut and bolt that pinch the strut, i assume that would be a bad idea for the axle nut? Its the blue loctite/orange permatex so it can be removed with tools. Ill probably use my orange stuff because it claims ti be stronger than blue but still removable with hand tools
Thanks Alexander! Yeah, threadlocker is never a bad idea. Thanks for the heads up on who to avoid!
The rear shocks are pretty easy. You should be able to knock those out quick.
@@bennieaust well got the fronts off just to realize my new struts didnt come assembled😂 ill get them together and thrown on tomorrow then off to your rear shock video! Thank you again for making a video on this! You really simplified it, even though im very mechanically inclined ill bet someone who doesnt normally do their own work could figure it out easily with this video!
@@alexanderdaughtry4491 you’re welcome! Hope the rest of the project goes well!!
Hi, great video, what is the front axle nut torque spec? I have read conflicting information 175 ft-lbs or 229 ft-lbs? Thank you
I’m not going to make things any better. :(
I’ve got all the torque specs in the description, but when I looked them all up it listed 148ft-lbs.
I see it now sorry had to expand the description, thanks for not raking me over the coals…so 150 it is and call it good? 😁
@@ABBLDGOPERATOR no worries 😁 150 should be good!
When taking off the axle nut is it necessary to unstake/unpunch and do you have to replace the nut after taking it off?
I just remove them, no “unpunching”, then typically reuse and repunch.
Thank you for your response. You're video saved me a whole lot of money.
@@HugoChacon-ow4lo you’re welcome! Good to hear!
Haynes says to replace the pinch bolt. what are your thoughts?
It’s probably a torque-to-yield bolt, or they just feel that’s a cautionary measure. I didn’t replace them and I wouldn’t expect you’d have an issue reusing them, but make your own judgement call on that.
@@bennieaust okay thx
When you cut this part ua-cam.com/video/RlWfg0hxUp8/v-deo.html is it not important that you have the metal part there for the bolt to go through ? or is that just a guide ?
It’s just important as a guide it does not have to be between the
Rock auto parts huh
WOW awesome video !!!! Curios , How many miles does the Jeep have on it ? I have a lot of miles on mine , not sure if I should replace them or not . Thanks
Thanks! I don't recall how many miles were on this Jeep. The general guideline I have heard is every 5 years or sometime between 50K-100K miles. I have personally seen socks and struts last much longer than that so I wouldn't really follow that guideline.
There are 3 issues that would make me suggest replacement. The first is if you see oil leaking out of them, around the base of the shiny rod, where the seal is. The strut body will just be wet with oil in this area. You won't have a puddle on the ground or anything. This is of course visible failure.
The second is that you experience a pogo effect when driving over bumps in the road. The vehicle continues to bounce up and down after you've past the pump. This would be both front and/or both rear going bad at the same time.
The third would be if you experience weird / scary vehicle movements when driving at highway speeds, around slight bends in the road, while hitting bumps. I know, that's a complicated scenario to imagine, sorry. I have experienced that scenario many times. The feeling is instability and you feel the need to try and correct it with steering inputs. It can be hard to put your finger on what's going on, but you know if feels very unsafe. This is caused by a single rear and/or a single front that has failed. This is the hardest one to diagnose, but when you swap them out you discover one is really bad.
If you aren't experiencing any of those issues you are probably fine for now.
@@bennieaust Thanks , I'm located in Florida and where I am I don't have many bumps in these roads at all , but the jeep had around 180k miles on it . Sometimes when I do hit a bump is does seem to be a big of a slam .. I have the knowledge and tools to do it , thats no problem at all . Thanks for the info , It looks so easy that I will do it this weekend.
@@myname2263 You're welcome! best of luck with the project!
so I did everything and I have a weird knocking noise only sometimes. It sounds like the driver side only. Any ideas? Should the plastic clip at the top be able to spin once everything is in place?
The plastic clip will rotate. Check the sway bar end links. Those are a really common source of clunking.
I replace them and they are tight.@@bennieaust
I’d check for any play in the tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings.