Dealer was charging me 1600$ to change 1 front strut and 1 control arm...after looking at your video i decided to go ahead to change the strut my self..got two front strut from rock auto for 300$ shipped and went ahead to try..i've just finish changing both front strut and following your video was VERY helpfull...change both strut in about 4h..we are not very mechanic people but was able too without to much trouble and without a hoist ( only cons is it's hard on your knee and back but ok)...thank you now getting ready to change the back suspension with your other video thanks🤘
This video does more than just save time & money, it simplifies the steps to the point where I felt comfortable doing this repair. I really appreciate the effort that went into making this video. I would've NEVER attempted this repair without it. The $ saved by doing this myself allowed me to buy the rear shocks. Thank you, you really helped me!
You’re welcome Jason! Thanks for leaving the great feedback!! If you hadn’t seen it yet, I do also have a video covering the rear shock replacement. :) ua-cam.com/video/nKW0QvDqXMg/v-deo.html
Good video, I did both front and back, but you made the front look easier than in reality. The sledge to the control arm to pop the ball joint damages it, and it did not pop it loose. I bought the separator tool, which worked great, but you risk damaging the ball joint thread since the bolt is hollow and fragile (happened on both sides). I was able to get one side to go, but the other side I had to replace the whole ball joint, which was a massive pain in its own right, as it’s highly difficult to extract and replace. Be possibly prepared for this as well. I highly recommend grabbing a friend…it would be extremely challenging to do this job solo, even with a lift since you’re keeping as much intact as possible. Once you take off the brake and knuckle assembly, it does roll, so you really need a hand ensure you get that secured properly to avoid damage to the brake line. Also, the new strut is difficult to line up in the hole, once again, good to have a buddy. We put the bottom in first and used a floor jack to help with getting it aligned properly and get the clips on, as it needs to be perfectly centered and doesn’t have much play. Lot of trial and error in adjusting the alignment. I used a ratcheting c-clamp to help get the clips together. Reassembly from there was mostly correct. The main thing you didn’t mention- the ball joint spins, so it may be difficult to properly torque it. We didn’t realize it has a hex in the center of the thread to help prevent this, and you should use a box wrench and #5 hex wrench to tighten it down. Hope this additional context helps!
Thanks for watching and adding your experience and tips!! It’s never a bad idea to have a second set of hands. I definitely do my best to show any struggles I have. I figure if I’m having issues with something, it’s highly likely someone else will have the same issues. I do edit out a lot of unnecessary and time consuming stuff so the videos are watchable. Being able to work through the unexpected challenges is what set apart beginners from experienced mechanics (I’m making no claims where I fit on that scale). I have not ever damaged a lower ball joint by hitting the control arm with a hammer, but it is possible. As you experienced, you can also damage them even with the correct tool. I own the tool, but have found a big hammer to be my personal preference most of the time. If you don’t damage the ball joint threads it shouldn’t put up a big fight going back together, but if it does, put some grease on the threads and put a floor jack under the control arm to press it over the tapered ball joint stud. More force will lock it in and prevent it from spinning since it’s tapered, and use an impact, being careful to not over tighten the nut. That’s a personal tried and true method.
8:50, I never thought I'd ever see a plastic retaining ring to secure the top of a strut on any car. Way to go Jeep lol. Thank you for the in-depth process to doing these struts. May take me a little longer as I'll be on the ground.
No kidding, the plastic retainer seems like a terrible idea. Probably will take longer on the ground but at least you know what your in for. Thanks for watching!
Rainman Ray did this job on a Cherokee that collided with a curb or other object, resulting in the suspension getting bent up pretty bad. He disparaged the plastic retainers. His comments section blew up with people hating all over the plastic retainers. Quite ironic, as most of the metal parts of the suspension had to be replaced but the plastic retainers survived the accident JUST FINE. All the retainers do is keep the strut from falling on your toe after you release it from the knuckle--they aren't supporting any lateral or vertical loads at all.
@7:02 Thanks for letting us know what brand of replacement strut to NOT touch with a 10-foot pole. When you have to do surgery on your replacement parts, you picked the wrong supplier.
Would you recommend changing just one side if it’s bad? Or would I have to replace both driver and passenger shocks? (Only the passenger shock needs replacing on my wife’s Jeep Cherokee) Thanks! -Alex
i didnt put the strut in first before i put the wheel knuckle on i tried too push it up with just the wheel knuckle on no brakes or rotor on and still dont have it in im taking the wheel knuckle off tommorow and put the strut in first
If you put the strut in first, it allows you to put force under the knuckle and help force them together. Thats the order I have found to work best for me.
How much do you need to pay attention to orientation of the top strut hat when installing? Its angled to a degree, and do i need to make sure its facing one way or another?
FYI. I did this and after removing the speed sensors , every single dash light came on including service transmission. It was in limp mode. Jeep tried to tell me to buy a new transmission 😂. I took it to a transmission shop and had them reset the vehicle which Jeep should have done. It works fine now.
I’ve seen this happen if the vehicle was turned on while a sensor was disconnected or something like that. Wouldn’t expect it in your situation, but I guess it did. :( Just resetting it obviously was the solution and I agree the dealer should have done that first.
You do a good job explaining things. It makes me feel like I can do this job. Have a question. The little tabs that lock the CV axle nut. Did you pry them out or just zip through them?
Thanks Bondo! It’s not necessarily a hard job, but parts of it can be a struggle. Getting the bottom of the strut out of the knuckle and the new one back in the knuckle will probably be the hardest part. The other side went really easy though. On the axle nuts, I just put the impact on them and zip them out. I’ve never had an issue doing it that way.
@@92mrhonda try putting a floor jack under the control arm or ball joint to lift up the whole assembly and hold the strut up in place while you try to install the clip.
Yes, this is a great tool for splitting ball joints: amzn.to/3Wfrkwi A pickle fork is another option, but they tend to damage ball joint boots: amzn.to/3W4ddde
I had too use a tie rod remover tool too push that bolt up too remove wheel hub and his video makes it look easy but I'm telling u it's a bitch too remove the struts u can do it just be ready too work harder than the video looks just saying
They weren't terrible to begin with so there wasn't a huge difference. Whenever I've installed new shocks or struts it always feels a bit stiff at first.
It’s probably a torque-to-yield bolt, or they just feel that’s a cautionary measure. I didn’t replace them and I wouldn’t expect you’d have an issue reusing them, but make your own judgement call on that.
I assume you reused all bolts, even on the hub? I have steel retainer clips for the struts this go around but I’ve never done suspension so this will be a learning experience haha Ihave a tourer wrench for my lugs but I’ll be getting the Pittsburg you’re wrench and their metric 1/2 drive deep socket set. Think that’ll be good to go?
Yes, you should be good to go with that. I think Jeep may say replacement of some bolts is required. Generally with torque-to-yield bolts that’s what they say. I reused all the bolts, but you can make your own call on that.
@@bennieaust i was watching another video on these jeeps suspension by the worst aftermarket parts company for these cherokees-MFC. Stay far away from them, the owner is a sleeze ball, stolen designs and no support. But, as he usually does, said the axle nuts and the bolt and nut for the part on the knucle that pinches the strut are 1 time use haha i got some axle nuts to be safe but the guys at jeep said you can technically re use both unless the axle nut is really smashed up from multiple changes. Thank you for the video, this is hands down the best video ive found for changing the front end out-ill have to find your rear shock video for when i finish the front. Got caught up looking at properties and now its going to be a late night😂 ill be putting some thread locker on the nut and bolt that pinch the strut, i assume that would be a bad idea for the axle nut? Its the blue loctite/orange permatex so it can be removed with tools. Ill probably use my orange stuff because it claims ti be stronger than blue but still removable with hand tools
Thanks Alexander! Yeah, threadlocker is never a bad idea. Thanks for the heads up on who to avoid! The rear shocks are pretty easy. You should be able to knock those out quick.
@@bennieaust well got the fronts off just to realize my new struts didnt come assembled😂 ill get them together and thrown on tomorrow then off to your rear shock video! Thank you again for making a video on this! You really simplified it, even though im very mechanically inclined ill bet someone who doesnt normally do their own work could figure it out easily with this video!
When you cut this part ua-cam.com/video/RlWfg0hxUp8/v-deo.html is it not important that you have the metal part there for the bolt to go through ? or is that just a guide ?
I like the tips you offered from a former tech I would replace the ball joints with the new struts being the ball joint is most likely worn out. So you’re replacing part of problem.
so I did everything and I have a weird knocking noise only sometimes. It sounds like the driver side only. Any ideas? Should the plastic clip at the top be able to spin once everything is in place?
WOW awesome video !!!! Curios , How many miles does the Jeep have on it ? I have a lot of miles on mine , not sure if I should replace them or not . Thanks
Thanks! I don't recall how many miles were on this Jeep. The general guideline I have heard is every 5 years or sometime between 50K-100K miles. I have personally seen socks and struts last much longer than that so I wouldn't really follow that guideline. There are 3 issues that would make me suggest replacement. The first is if you see oil leaking out of them, around the base of the shiny rod, where the seal is. The strut body will just be wet with oil in this area. You won't have a puddle on the ground or anything. This is of course visible failure. The second is that you experience a pogo effect when driving over bumps in the road. The vehicle continues to bounce up and down after you've past the pump. This would be both front and/or both rear going bad at the same time. The third would be if you experience weird / scary vehicle movements when driving at highway speeds, around slight bends in the road, while hitting bumps. I know, that's a complicated scenario to imagine, sorry. I have experienced that scenario many times. The feeling is instability and you feel the need to try and correct it with steering inputs. It can be hard to put your finger on what's going on, but you know if feels very unsafe. This is caused by a single rear and/or a single front that has failed. This is the hardest one to diagnose, but when you swap them out you discover one is really bad. If you aren't experiencing any of those issues you are probably fine for now.
@@bennieaust Thanks , I'm located in Florida and where I am I don't have many bumps in these roads at all , but the jeep had around 180k miles on it . Sometimes when I do hit a bump is does seem to be a big of a slam .. I have the knowledge and tools to do it , thats no problem at all . Thanks for the info , It looks so easy that I will do it this weekend.
Yeah I watched this video and I'm telling u it's a lot easier if u remove the brakes and the sensor line hard as hell too remove if u don't remove those first yep trust me
Dealer was charging me 1600$ to change 1 front strut and 1 control arm...after looking at your video i decided to go ahead to change the strut my self..got two front strut from rock auto for 300$ shipped and went ahead to try..i've just finish changing both front strut and following your video was VERY helpfull...change both strut in about 4h..we are not very mechanic people but was able too without to much trouble and without a hoist ( only cons is it's hard on your knee and back but ok)...thank you now getting ready to change the back suspension with your other video thanks🤘
Thanks great to hear. I always like getting comments from people with stories like this. This is why I make these videos!!
Great video! Thanks for the help!
@ you’re welcome!
This video does more than just save time & money, it simplifies the steps to the point where I felt comfortable doing this repair. I really appreciate the effort that went into making this video. I would've NEVER attempted this repair without it. The $ saved by doing this myself allowed me to buy the rear shocks. Thank you, you really helped me!
You’re welcome Jason! Thanks for leaving the great feedback!!
If you hadn’t seen it yet, I do also have a video covering the rear shock replacement. :)
ua-cam.com/video/nKW0QvDqXMg/v-deo.html
Good video, I did both front and back, but you made the front look easier than in reality. The sledge to the control arm to pop the ball joint damages it, and it did not pop it loose. I bought the separator tool, which worked great, but you risk damaging the ball joint thread since the bolt is hollow and fragile (happened on both sides). I was able to get one side to go, but the other side I had to replace the whole ball joint, which was a massive pain in its own right, as it’s highly difficult to extract and replace. Be possibly prepared for this as well.
I highly recommend grabbing a friend…it would be extremely challenging to do this job solo, even with a lift since you’re keeping as much intact as possible.
Once you take off the brake and knuckle assembly, it does roll, so you really need a hand ensure you get that secured properly to avoid damage to the brake line.
Also, the new strut is difficult to line up in the hole, once again, good to have a buddy. We put the bottom in first and used a floor jack to help with getting it aligned properly and get the clips on, as it needs to be perfectly centered and doesn’t have much play. Lot of trial and error in adjusting the alignment. I used a ratcheting c-clamp to help get the clips together.
Reassembly from there was mostly correct. The main thing you didn’t mention- the ball joint spins, so it may be difficult to properly torque it. We didn’t realize it has a hex in the center of the thread to help prevent this, and you should use a box wrench and #5 hex wrench to tighten it down.
Hope this additional context helps!
Thanks for watching and adding your experience and tips!!
It’s never a bad idea to have a second set of hands.
I definitely do my best to show any struggles I have. I figure if I’m having issues with something, it’s highly likely someone else will have the same issues. I do edit out a lot of unnecessary and time consuming stuff so the videos are watchable.
Being able to work through the unexpected challenges is what set apart beginners from experienced mechanics (I’m making no claims where I fit on that scale).
I have not ever damaged a lower ball joint by hitting the control arm with a hammer, but it is possible. As you experienced, you can also damage them even with the correct tool. I own the tool, but have found a big hammer to be my personal preference most of the time.
If you don’t damage the ball joint threads it shouldn’t put up a big fight going back together, but if it does, put some grease on the threads and put a floor jack under the control arm to press it over the tapered ball joint stud. More force will lock it in and prevent it from spinning since it’s tapered, and use an impact, being careful to not over tighten the nut. That’s a personal tried and true method.
8:50, I never thought I'd ever see a plastic retaining ring to secure the top of a strut on any car. Way to go Jeep lol. Thank you for the in-depth process to doing these struts. May take me a little longer as I'll be on the ground.
No kidding, the plastic retainer seems like a terrible idea.
Probably will take longer on the ground but at least you know what your in for.
Thanks for watching!
Pry why they go bad so easy
Rainman Ray did this job on a Cherokee that collided with a curb or other object, resulting in the suspension getting bent up pretty bad. He disparaged the plastic retainers. His comments section blew up with people hating all over the plastic retainers. Quite ironic, as most of the metal parts of the suspension had to be replaced but the plastic retainers survived the accident JUST FINE. All the retainers do is keep the strut from falling on your toe after you release it from the knuckle--they aren't supporting any lateral or vertical loads at all.
@7:02 Thanks for letting us know what brand of replacement strut to NOT touch with a 10-foot pole. When you have to do surgery on your replacement parts, you picked the wrong supplier.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for the E14 explanation.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great video! Did my jeep front and rear today.
Would you happen to have a video on replacing the driver side door lock actuator?
Thanks Mike! I don’t have a door lock actuator video. Sorry.
Would you recommend changing just one side if it’s bad? Or would I have to replace both driver and passenger shocks? (Only the passenger shock needs replacing on my wife’s Jeep Cherokee) Thanks! -Alex
You should replace a pair at a time. Both fronts or both rears.
@@bennieaust gotcha thank you
@@slaying4fun you’re welcome
You saved my life, thank you!
:) you’re welcome!!
Thanks for watching!
i didnt put the strut in first before i put the wheel knuckle on i tried too push it up with just the wheel knuckle on no brakes or rotor on and still dont have it in im taking the wheel knuckle off tommorow and put the strut in first
If you put the strut in first, it allows you to put force under the knuckle and help force them together. Thats the order I have found to work best for me.
I was going to do it myself lol but I’m not a mechanic and I don’t anything I just learn from you on this video
At least you know what to expect before you try! Thanks for watching!
Hallo, vielen Dank für das hilfreiche Video. Für mich als Deutschen ist es sehr gut erklärt und informativ. Weiter so!👍
Thank you, and thanks for watching and commenting!!
How much do you need to pay attention to orientation of the top strut hat when installing? Its angled to a degree, and do i need to make sure its facing one way or another?
It doesn't need to be a certain way. It's not keyed or directional.
FYI. I did this and after removing the speed sensors , every single dash light came on including service transmission. It was in limp mode. Jeep tried to tell me to buy a new transmission 😂. I took it to a transmission shop and had them reset the vehicle which Jeep should have done. It works fine now.
I’ve seen this happen if the vehicle was turned on while a sensor was disconnected or something like that. Wouldn’t expect it in your situation, but I guess it did. :(
Just resetting it obviously was the solution and I agree the dealer should have done that first.
Reset as in proxi alignment?
@@sbond1963 , reset as in clear all the codes.
@@sbond1963 Yes.
What’s the part number for the struts please
I put links in the description.
The original struts I removed from my car look like the new one you bought ,so I don’t have to grind it
The one I found online looks deferent
You do a good job explaining things. It makes me feel like I can do this job. Have a question. The little tabs that lock the CV axle nut. Did you pry them out or just zip through them?
Thanks Bondo! It’s not necessarily a hard job, but parts of it can be a struggle. Getting the bottom of the strut out of the knuckle and the new one back in the knuckle will probably be the hardest part. The other side went really easy though.
On the axle nuts, I just put the impact on them and zip them out. I’ve never had an issue doing it that way.
Estimado una pregunta. El amortiguador usado es el original? Gracias.
No, it’s an aftermarket replacement.
Nice video buddy, I’m doing the same job today but ball joints as well, both sides struts and ball joints 🤦♂️ your video helped me 👍
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!!
@@bennieaust only problem I’m having is getting the strut back into place and locking the plastic clips at the top 🤦♂️
@@92mrhonda try putting a floor jack under the control arm or ball joint to lift up the whole assembly and hold the strut up in place while you try to install the clip.
@@bennieaust gotter done
Great video! I’m having trouble with getting the lower ball joints loose by the method shown in the video. Do you have any suggestions?
Yes, this is a great tool for splitting ball joints: amzn.to/3Wfrkwi
A pickle fork is another option, but they tend to damage ball joint boots: amzn.to/3W4ddde
I had too use a tie rod remover tool too push that bolt up too remove wheel hub and his video makes it look easy but I'm telling u it's a bitch too remove the struts u can do it just be ready too work harder than the video looks just saying
@@theinketwolfdagonlair5401 That’s the truth, I even had to use a propane torch to heat up the a-frame so it would expand and release.
When taking off the axle nut is it necessary to unstake/unpunch and do you have to replace the nut after taking it off?
I just remove them, no “unpunching”, then typically reuse and repunch.
Thank you for your response. You're video saved me a whole lot of money.
@@HugoChacon-ow4lo you’re welcome! Good to hear!
Great video was there a very noticeable difference in the ride and cornering after the swap? Thanks
They weren't terrible to begin with so there wasn't a huge difference. Whenever I've installed new shocks or struts it always feels a bit stiff at first.
Thanks for the video. Followed video step by step. Helped so much.
You’re welcome!!
Haynes says to replace the pinch bolt. what are your thoughts?
It’s probably a torque-to-yield bolt, or they just feel that’s a cautionary measure. I didn’t replace them and I wouldn’t expect you’d have an issue reusing them, but make your own judgement call on that.
@@bennieaust okay thx
Hi, great video, what is the front axle nut torque spec? I have read conflicting information 175 ft-lbs or 229 ft-lbs? Thank you
I’m not going to make things any better. :(
I’ve got all the torque specs in the description, but when I looked them all up it listed 148ft-lbs.
I see it now sorry had to expand the description, thanks for not raking me over the coals…so 150 it is and call it good? 😁
@@ABBLDGOPERATOR no worries 😁 150 should be good!
I assume you reused all bolts, even on the hub? I have steel retainer clips for the struts this go around but I’ve never done suspension so this will be a learning experience haha Ihave a tourer wrench for my lugs but I’ll be getting the Pittsburg you’re wrench and their metric 1/2 drive deep socket set. Think that’ll be good to go?
Yes, you should be good to go with that. I think Jeep may say replacement of some bolts is required. Generally with torque-to-yield bolts that’s what they say. I reused all the bolts, but you can make your own call on that.
@@bennieaust i was watching another video on these jeeps suspension by the worst aftermarket parts company for these cherokees-MFC. Stay far away from them, the owner is a sleeze ball, stolen designs and no support. But, as he usually does, said the axle nuts and the bolt and nut for the part on the knucle that pinches the strut are 1 time use haha i got some axle nuts to be safe but the guys at jeep said you can technically re use both unless the axle nut is really smashed up from multiple changes. Thank you for the video, this is hands down the best video ive found for changing the front end out-ill have to find your rear shock video for when i finish the front. Got caught up looking at properties and now its going to be a late night😂 ill be putting some thread locker on the nut and bolt that pinch the strut, i assume that would be a bad idea for the axle nut? Its the blue loctite/orange permatex so it can be removed with tools. Ill probably use my orange stuff because it claims ti be stronger than blue but still removable with hand tools
Thanks Alexander! Yeah, threadlocker is never a bad idea. Thanks for the heads up on who to avoid!
The rear shocks are pretty easy. You should be able to knock those out quick.
@@bennieaust well got the fronts off just to realize my new struts didnt come assembled😂 ill get them together and thrown on tomorrow then off to your rear shock video! Thank you again for making a video on this! You really simplified it, even though im very mechanically inclined ill bet someone who doesnt normally do their own work could figure it out easily with this video!
@@alexanderdaughtry4491 you’re welcome! Hope the rest of the project goes well!!
Excellent job. Thank you. Just didn't catch the torque on the axcel nut. Homework exercise 😂.
It’s in the description! :)
When you cut this part ua-cam.com/video/RlWfg0hxUp8/v-deo.html is it not important that you have the metal part there for the bolt to go through ? or is that just a guide ?
It’s just important as a guide it does not have to be between the
Video is great, just swapped out both struts easier than expected!
Thanks Mark!!
Great to hear!!
I like the tips you offered from a former tech I would replace the ball joints with the new struts being the ball joint is most likely worn out. So you’re replacing part of problem.
Thanks for your added advice!
so I did everything and I have a weird knocking noise only sometimes. It sounds like the driver side only. Any ideas? Should the plastic clip at the top be able to spin once everything is in place?
The plastic clip will rotate. Check the sway bar end links. Those are a really common source of clunking.
I replace them and they are tight.@@bennieaust
I’d check for any play in the tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings.
WOW awesome video !!!! Curios , How many miles does the Jeep have on it ? I have a lot of miles on mine , not sure if I should replace them or not . Thanks
Thanks! I don't recall how many miles were on this Jeep. The general guideline I have heard is every 5 years or sometime between 50K-100K miles. I have personally seen socks and struts last much longer than that so I wouldn't really follow that guideline.
There are 3 issues that would make me suggest replacement. The first is if you see oil leaking out of them, around the base of the shiny rod, where the seal is. The strut body will just be wet with oil in this area. You won't have a puddle on the ground or anything. This is of course visible failure.
The second is that you experience a pogo effect when driving over bumps in the road. The vehicle continues to bounce up and down after you've past the pump. This would be both front and/or both rear going bad at the same time.
The third would be if you experience weird / scary vehicle movements when driving at highway speeds, around slight bends in the road, while hitting bumps. I know, that's a complicated scenario to imagine, sorry. I have experienced that scenario many times. The feeling is instability and you feel the need to try and correct it with steering inputs. It can be hard to put your finger on what's going on, but you know if feels very unsafe. This is caused by a single rear and/or a single front that has failed. This is the hardest one to diagnose, but when you swap them out you discover one is really bad.
If you aren't experiencing any of those issues you are probably fine for now.
@@bennieaust Thanks , I'm located in Florida and where I am I don't have many bumps in these roads at all , but the jeep had around 180k miles on it . Sometimes when I do hit a bump is does seem to be a big of a slam .. I have the knowledge and tools to do it , thats no problem at all . Thanks for the info , It looks so easy that I will do it this weekend.
@@myname2263 You're welcome! best of luck with the project!
Great video.
Thanks!!
Excelen 👍
Yeah I watched this video and I'm telling u it's a lot easier if u remove the brakes and the sensor line hard as hell too remove if u don't remove those first yep trust me
If you find it easier that way then you should definitely do it that way! This video is just a reference of how I prefer to do it.
You forgot to lube up the struct 🤣
Rock auto parts huh
Didn’t need to do any of that 😂