Renaud Salmon, Amouage, live interview on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 412
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- #LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #Amouage
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[Samples used during the broadcast were provided by the brand. Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.]
Episode 412 of Love At First Scent.
This was a UA-cam Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 26th November 2023. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I interviewed Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer at Amouage. We talked about the creation of the latest additions to the Exceptional Extraits range: Jubilation 40 Man (Bertrand Duchaufour) and Dia 40 Woman (Alexandra Carlin). We also discussed the limited edition Cristal & Gold scents (released to mark Amouage's 40th anniversary), as well as the issue of rising prices and Renaud's overall vision for the brand.
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[* Since November 2020, I have been commissioned by Amouage to complete various projects, some of which have had a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection.]
Copyright 2023 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.
Great interview. I find Renaud to be pretty transparent and friendly despite a lot of the flack and arguable slander he receives from people who can't let go of the past and didn't really even give him a chance. My opinion on Amouage is this: Amouage is whatever its owners want it to be, whether overseen by Chong or Salmon or whoever else they want to hire. They define what Amouage is. I like Chong's works but he is not synonymous with Amouage and I think Salmon has done a good job as well. I particularly prefer the new packaging introduced in the past year or two. Thanks again, Persolaise.
Thanks very much for taking the time to write, Michael.
What a wonderful interview. Renaud Salmon comes across as genuine and approachable. He didn't refuse any questions. I'm also thrilled that he sourced patchouli from Rémi, you may have been one reason for this collaboration. I have Gold, such a symphonic perfume and Dia which I always return to when I'm not sure what to wear, so elegant even though not typical of the house.
Thanks very much indeed for watching. I adore Gold and Dia too.
I have to say, I love the way Renaud lets us into these intimate insights from this greatest of houses. I think he's been doing a terrific job ever since taking over, as he had some very big shoes to fill & has fit into them very snuggly. I loved the Chong era, but am loving the Salmon era equally, plus we get these informative little gems from the two of you.
Thanks very much for watching. I always enjoy my chats with him.
Fantastic interview. Renaud is excellent...well thought out and intellectual. Really appreciate this. Thanks for having him on! Also love Amouge...old and new.
Many thanks for watching.
Amouage hopefully is so proud to have Monsieur Salmon! What a well spoken, well educated and down to earth person. His love for perfumery and for what he does is so obvious too. I want to encourage the staff in charge of marketing and economy to ask him for his opinion ever now and again too. Personally I have witnessed a development in high end perfumery in which, in some cases, prices and offerings have been drifting apart beyond any reasonable justification. I hope Amouage will not go down this route.
Thanks for taking the time to write this.
Absolutely amazing interview. Not a single dull moment. Thank you.
That’s so kind, thank you.
I really enjoyed the interview, can't wait to get my hands on Jubilation 40. I struggle at first to understand the new fragrances and the new direction but now I get it. What really amazes me is the new store and packaging designs, I read that Mr. Salmon uses collages to create his concepts for Amouage, I see the boxes as the idea of the ingredients and notes represented in the colors and texture and the stores as a living collage as if you where inside your mind watching all the elements of the fragrances: smells, colors, textures all in 3D interacting with each other amazing!!! As a designer myself you learn a lot. Thank you Dariush and Renaud!!!
Thanks for watching. The new boutiques are really stunning.
Renaud looks like a movie star. The two of you together are awesome !
He definitely does!
Thanks for watching.
It was really amazing listening to Renaud speak very transparently about old and new formulations, creative processes and production. It's really important for us to understand these things so we appreciate what goes into making incredible perfumes. This interview reminded me of interviews I've seen with Frederick Malle where he speaks of the technical challenges they face in making some of their fragrances. Thank you yet again 😊
I agree -- it's not often we hear people answer questions with such openness.
Thanks for watching.
I could listen to Renaud talk about Amouage for hours! Thank you Mr. P for this interview. I cherish my old Jubilation XXV bottle and really anxious to smell the 40 version. Cher monsieur Salmon, un immense merci, c'est toujours un plaisir de découvrir chacune des créations que vous nous concoctez. Royal Tobacco est splendide et Meander & Ashore sont de véritables oeuvres poétiques pour le nez! Une autre collaboration avec Mackenzie Reilly?
Thanks for watching. I’d love to see some more work from Reilly as well.
Terrific, truly fascinating conversation. Thank you Renaud and Persolaise!
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
Excellent interview. Thoroughly enjoyed it! Thanks!
Thanks very much indeed for watching.
such a special peek inside Amouage ... thank you !
Thanks very much for watching.
I've decided I'll upgrade to XL when my current EdP bottle finishes because concentration-SIZE does matter! 😅
I whole heartedly echo the feedback from others on just how wonderful this interview was. It brought the brand even closer to me.
Speaking about closeness and admiration I've missed the London boutique for many years. Any chance of a new one? I find the Harrods perfumery hall far too chaotic. In fact a boutique up on the sixth floor perfume salon would be fantastic.
By the way, the word Diya (spelt that way) in hindi also means a lamp.
Yes, that perfume hall can get really hectic.
Thanks very much for watching.
Thank you very much for the positivity, sjiwaji
Always love your interviews! Thanks 😋
Very kind, thank you.
Great interview and video! A great way to spend a cold and grey day. I do own six Amouage fragrances and wished I owned more, but I love what I already have.
I’m so pleased you enjoyed it.
Thank you, Persolaise, for yet another great interview. It makes me want to discover more Amouage fragrances!!!
I wonder what the difference is between maturation/maceration made by the brands and the process of leaving the bottle to stand before use in your own perfume wardrobe. Is it a question of temperature? Is there a risk that a juice might macerate too long?
Anyway, thank you for inspiring so much curiosity and spreading great knowledge!
That’s a great question. I wonder if someone reading this might be able to answer it.
Fabulous interview! This kind of introduction makes one so excited to experience the fragrances! 👏🙌
It’s a holiday weekend here in America (family time is special this weekend) so sorry we missed the Live. Best wishes from our home to yours! 👋
Thank you so much - all the best to you too.
Soo handsome! both!
Thanks very much for watching.
Beyond gutted I missed the live!
Oh no, that’s a shame.
So I only got to this video now. I've attended the past 2 ScentXplores and I have always appreciated his transparency. I found J40 (which I had smelled prior to this live, as somebody who got the ScentXplore samples) to be a worthwhile flanker with its own signature, but in the end, I could not wash away the sensation of underwhelm due to the performance being just like the one on the current version of J25 which I deem to be one of the core issues with a lot of hard-hitting all-star releases in the niche scene. That's why I'm stuck looking for a non-magnetic white cap take of the scent which are going for $700-800 in the secondary market. Nonetheless, it was pleasant to listen to.
Thanks very much indeed for taking the time to write.
Persolaise, what are your top three Amouge?
Oh gosh, that’s too tough to answer.
FML £320 for 100mls. I bought Epic Man in 2015 for £115. 150% price increase in 8 years. Great interview though. I remember working in HR Rods when Gold Man and Woman came out first. Stunning perfumery. Today’s prices are now a joke.
Oh wow, you were there for the original Golds? How wonderful.
I guess i will never find out whether Amouage is using real animal derived ingredients.. 😞
Hello, I am sorry that we did not get to answer your question. Here is the list of animal derived ingredients that Amouage is using:
- Civette (less and less)
- Castoreum (less and less as well)
- Ambergris infusion
- Beeswax
- Ambrettolide (obtained from the gum of cochineal beetles)
@@salmonrenaud thank you for your detailed answer.
Ah, I’m so glad Renaud saw your question. Thanks for asking it.
@@salmonrenaud Props and respect for engaging with viewers and answering their questions 👍
I have no idea what's up with all the support here for Renaud... maybe it's just my opinion as a true diehard amouage fanboy, but...what has Renaud done since he arrived? He changed the bottle design,moving names from the ring neck of the fragrance to the front, making them look cheaper and corporate, he changed the boxes for all fragrances to make them look corporate and boring, he reformulated all of the fragrances from Chong era, watered them down and made them perform terrible, he discontinued a lot of lovely fragrances like: Myths man, Bracken man, Figment man, Gold man...just so that he can release his ''new'' vision of Amouage...and from his new releases i can only name 2 that are DECENT, which are Royal tobacco and Silver oud... He absolutely butchered Amouage...prices skyrocketed, quality went down and even packaging went cheaper looking. He's just young and moneyhungry, just like the owners of Amouage.. Sad what this brand has come to.
Thanks very much for watching.
Everyone is entitled to their opinions. Mine is that I had never heard of Amouage before last year nor did I have access to it locally prior to Guidance (released under his direction) showing up in all the influencer lists. That introduced me to the rest of their portfolio and in a span of 4 months and I’ve picked up 4 full bottles of the older perfumes (ironically, no Guidance). You could also look at the change as bringing more people to appreciate what this house had to offer.
It’s safe to say that not all of Mr. Chong’s releases over 10 years have been masterpieces while others are deeply loved. I don’t expect Mr Salmon to dictate prices becuse I doubt that’s under his purview. I am, however, concerned by dilution and bottles starting to look like plastic Easter toys and less “elevated” middle-eastern. I mean look at the bottles for Portrayal or Interlude or Honor 🤩. So I hope the core premise of the house is kept intact.