Thank you!!!! This was how a "How to" video should be! I knew I needed to vacuum out the lines, but other tutorials are very unhelpful in that aspect. You explained everything about the vacuum pump and how to use it in a very understandable and easy to follow manner. I honestly thought my cheap gauges had the open and closed arrows backwards, but your explanation of that makes perfect sense and now I'm actually pulling a vacuum on my system, instead of just in the gauge hoses. I just started the vacuum process about 15 minutes ago, but so far everything is going exactly as your video indicates it should. Thank you again for taking the time to create and upload this video!
@@FarmDad Hey, I have a dumb question.....How much do you tighten the schrader valve? I had a mild loss of vacuum after an hour of the vacuum pump being turned off. I checked the valve and it was tight. I went ahead and refilled the system, after running the vacuum pump again to make sure the hoses were free of air, and I added some UV dye to check for leaks. The only place I can find a leak is around the schrader valve, so I'm thinking I probably over-tightened it.
@@charlieembrey6524 my general rule with tightening anything is tight, but not too tight. I'm sure that doesnt really help you, but it's the best i can describe it. However, I suspect you have a leak elsewhere. I would just let it go until you no longer have cold air and then go back and try to find the leak.
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Like everybody else has commented, I found the details to be straight forward and easy to do myself just watching the video and getting the pump kit and schrader valve! Your video saved me from spending time and money on trying to figure out how to get my air conditioner to work on my 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Thanks again and keep up the great videos! Farmers helping farmers😀
This is a great video, anyone learning how to do this, should watch this video, am a backyard mechanic and, done everything, besides ac systems, this really helped in depth
Farm Dad, I enjoyed the video. I wasn't looking for it, but I'm glad that I happened to see it listed. I just now finishing up on the rebuild of the a/c system on my 93 F-150. Want to say thanks for your efforts, I'm sure that you've helped out a lot of people, including me. Oh, yeah. You've earned a new subscriber, I'm looking forward to checking out your other videos.
Thank You, doing this to my wife's car. Just changed compressor amd Schroeder valve, I felt if I'm going to do it I should do it right. The auto store had the tools brand new never used. Some people don't know you can rent them.
Nice work dad ! Straight forward and easy to understand... I would have zero hesitation to do this myself now ! Thank you, and all the very best wished for you and your family !
With my 2014 Range Rover Sport with a R1234-yf system, the shop manual makes a big point of not leaving a vacuum to sit before filling. Not sure why, but I did what they said with my compressor, condenser and drier replacement. So check it’s ok with your system before letting it sit with a vacuum.
A top tip. Get a container with water a bit warmer that room temp. Put the can of 134 in the container of water, it keeps the can from getting frost on it, the 134 goes in more quickly. This what I do each, and the can empties more quickly.
Just a quick tip. You really want to more slowly bleed refrigerant into the system. Seen way too many Crack that valve open and slug that compressor to oblivion.
The Appion core tool and its clones allows you to change a Schrader valve without losing any refrigerant. The valve core is unscrewed inside of the tool, pulled up, and a valve is shut, then the top can be unscrewed and a new core installed. Unfortunately for R134a fittings on vehicles, I have not seen a loss-less core replacement tool. If you’re working on an old vehicle that uses R12, one of these would come in very handy if you haven’t lost that much refrigerant yet and don’t want to retrofit 134.
Was just thinking the same thing. I think some cans of freon have oil built in them as well, but that wasn't mentioned, so Waiting for a response to this!
replaced my shraeder valve using this same kit and discovered it's leaking again although it's been almost 2 years ago. Useful to mention that most cars tell you how much refrigerant to put in the system on a sticker. That way you know how many cans to have and when you are close to being full.
Nice video learned to use the gauge now. If I had to ding anything it would be when you pull the vacuum where does the oil in the system go and you didn’t show putting oil back in just showing adding the can of Freon.
This video is very helpful. I only went here to learn about replacing the schrader valve but I learned the whole process 😊. I and my husband recently bought an old car and our AC keeps getting hot only weeks after getting charged. Since we don't know how to troubleshoot the system, the shop only keeps letting us charge the AC. We even got the condenser replaced because they saw some leak when they did the bubble test. They didn't even bother checking if the schrader valve had leaks. I had to check videos online on where AC leaks may be other than what we already knew and I was shocked to see our car's schrader valve on low is very oily and dripping with what I assume may be the refrigerant. Another thing is I asked my husband if they do the same thing you did on the video and he said that they only installed the manifold gauges and recharge the system soon after that. Sad thing is, there are only very few car AC technicians in the area and both had already disappointed us so we're now relying on learning this ourselves so we can do it ourselves and not get scammed again 😅.
If you find yourself having to replace the Hi Side service port like I do, look for a new port that has the schrader valve built in. Part # “Dorman 800-955” and this is GM specific. The cheap spring loaded rubber ball installed by GM will fail in time, so with this new part, you’ll be able to R&R that schrader if it fails in the future without losing your Freon and having to do the vacuum down part of this repair. Cheers
@@FarmDad Btw thanks for the different style of tops on the ac cans. I had and older style that did fit but was not emptying the refrigerant. Now I know why.
@@jdavid8569 You don’t. You fill through the low side. Open the high side if you want to check the pressure. Lots of refill kits only come with a low side hose.
Yes, I've seen it. I haven't used one, so I'm not sure how effective they are. This video is for the average guy who doesn't have specialized equipment.
@@FarmDadfollowing your video right now, I replaced both schrader valves and the pressure switches. Connected the manifold gauge and it’s showing 0 on both the high and low lines. I noticed the high pressure valve was leaking (i recharged the system to 20 psi and saw it go back to 0 almost immediately, while there was hissing coming out of the high pressure valve.) I just plug the gauges again and doing the vacuum, right now the high is all the way to the max negative while the low pressure has been coming down to the negative right now -20. The 2002 expedition has been sitting in my driveway for years now and the ac had been shut from before, so im wondering if that leak stay long enough to drain all of the refrigerant. By the way, when i did the recharge my compresor was cycling on and off rapidly, and i felt a bit of cold air before it went away. I jumped the switch and compresor runs fine (i think). I will report later on today when I recharge, but so far your video seems on point. Sorry for the long reply but wanted to get your input in case you spot anything. By the way, the compresor is pulling visible vapor into the air, is that normal?
I've been watching various videos of this repair... My only question, Does oil not need to be added? I've seen some say yes, some say no. This is only for evacuation and recharge, not replacing anything. Thanks for the help!
This is a grey area. My general rule is not to add oil unless I'm replacing a major component. It's actually somewhat difficult to judge accurately how much oil to add and you don't want too much.
@@FarmDad Yeah, I'll probably go with no oil after watching your video and reading through stuff. Maybe a bit of oil/dye if any. Thank you for the reply!
Only thing i would recommend is to go off how many pounds of refrigerant should go in your car and not just the pressure. Only went by the pressure after spending months fixing leaks on my 1999 jeep cherokee sport and when i was recharging it the psi stayed at about 25psi when it needed to be around 45 and i finished a second can when i should’ve only used about 3/4 of it and caused a new leak. To say i am upset with myself would be an understatement lol. Great video though
You do not have to evacuate the system to change shrader valves they have a tool just for this and you can change them without having to remove anything the charge stays in the system.
Nope! Did my research on this tool and too many bad experiences. Won’t waste my money on that tool. It’s Not cheap. I’m just going to recover and vacuum system.
I went to get my ac unit checked and they claim the schrader valve is bad. Should i try to tighten them if loose then spray some water to see if bubbling occurs. They want $205 to recharge and replace valves. Hopefully they run the vaccum pump long enough when I have redo it.
There's a $50 tool that allows you to replace the Shraeder valve without losing refrigerant. Mastercool (58531) Black R134A Valve Core Remover. HVAC techs also use it.
@@wim0104 if you use that valve core remover that you mentioned, do you have to use the vacuum like he did in the video? Does it keep all air from entering?
The system has a higher pressure than the outside atmosphere so no soapy water is able to get into the system. Furthermore, when you pull vacuum for an extended period as I do later in the video, any moisture in the system is removed.
@@FarmDad Thanks for the explanation. I'm a little over a year into night refrigeration school (4yr program, 2yrs full-time) and I was wondering if the soap in the solution were considered 'non-condensables' and would be pulled into the oil upon evacuation.
Hi there, great video. In the event where there was still a charge to the system, do you need to hook up a container to collect the freon that is evacuated?
Awesome video. Thank you, easy steps to follow. Also, I noticed that your truck is similar to my Chevy. Would you consider doing a video on adding a second battery?
Product not as described. I bought the vacuum system and it didn't come with the fitting for the new type of refrigerant. I got a new fitting from local parts store... it didn't thread into the vacuum system at all... ended up getting another low system adapter for new canisters ...
If the system holds less than 5 lbs of refrigerant it's considered "de minimus" and it was allowed by the EPA to be vented. Don't know if they have changed that rule in the last 20 years
The "de minimus" rule is aimed at very small amounts of leaked refrigerant, most commonly from purging the hoses with a very small amount of refrigerant just prior to use. I am EPA 608 type 1 and 609 MVAC certified.. If you let out ANY refrigerant intentionally, it is called venting, and it is expressly not allowed by the EPA (which shouldn't have the power it does BTW) and you may be fined if caught.
If you put the system in a vacuum, charge into the high side as much as it will take, then shut the high side valve and wait until pressure has equalized - then start the compressor and slowly bleed the remainer of the charge into the lowside very little at a time until it is all in.
Afraid I don't know off hand. Most are the same standard size, whatever that is, but I think it's possible to find other sizes. Maybe buy an assortment?
Ok, so a few things, did u empty the system/ evacuate, before doing all this, i know ZERO so thats why im asking,i see so many people totally skipping that part, i can do the gauge thing and vacuum, but i feel lost reading something about the yellow line🤷
I've used that xtreme power kit. The case is nice but the rest isn't. The pump is unreliable, the manifold gauges are just ok, the can tap is left hand threaded and they don't provide an adapter to connect it to the yellow line.
For what I paid, I'm happy with it. Ain't as good as my robinair stuff, but I've used it 3-4 times since then and it hasn't let me down. Maybe some are built better than others. Quality control seems to be an issue with just about everything these days.
@@FarmDad It does have a lot of good reviews. In mine the pump was flakey right out of the box. I turned it off after 10 minutes and it would not turn back on. Just start/stop/start/stop. I saw in your video the can tap looked like it had a right hand thread, but mine was left and other reviewers hit the same issue. Price was good but the delta between that kit and a better grade isn't that much.
Hi! I don't have a website yet, but you can subscribe to my UA-cam channel for free by clicking on the "subscribe" link on this video. Or you can follow us for free on Facebook at m.facebook.com/FarmDadUA-cam/. Thanks so much!
@Kelli Smith well, it's pumping out cold just fine. Anytime I had a system out of refrigerant, I just repair the leak, and fill it back up. Vaccuum is a scam
I didn't see you replace the high side valve. The high side valve is a one- time use item. If you don't replace it, it WILL develop a leak. Use Dorman part 800-955 which is the same design as the low side and won't develop a leak.
That new walmart can on the left, is the right can to buy. Only buy pure R-134A. NEVER get that leak stop crap. Never....... Stay far away from it. Pure R-134A. Now dye is okay in SMALL dosages. Doesn't take hardly a full ounce of dye. Stuff goes all over the place LOL.
He sure did explain it. When systems are opened, air enters. The air is laden with moisture. Moisture in an ac system reduces efficiency of refrigerant cycles, and it creates an environment for corrosion throughout the entire ac systems internal parts. Only way to get moisture down is to suck it out . If you skip this step you will think you fixed the system, until it eventually fails from unnecessary internal corrosion .
Everything we own is stored in here as we are currently living in the barn because lumber prices went up so high and we had to stop construction of our house.
Shade tree mechanic pro tip… Don’t order the vacuum pump, just hook up your can of refrigerant and start pumping it into the system while slightly pushing the high side valve down for a few seconds until you get air coming out and then oil and refrigerant will start coming out, at which point you would then release the valve. NO MORE AIR IN THE SYSTEM!!!
Wow thanks for the tip my question I lost all my refrigerant cause my high side valve went out i order a kit to fix all valves and says my system is 36 oz do I need get the can of stuff that says oil/ stop leak it's 7 oz and then get the cans of r134a in till my gauges say full I will do your tip to is that with my car running to?
The mechanic said mine got stuck because it's an old car, and they tried to unscrew the entire thing, and it didn't budge, now they said they have to pick apart the car to pull out the pipes, sounds like it's gonna cost me, wtf
What happens while you are filling it up through the low pressure valve you open the high pressure valve until the refrigerant starts to come out. It would also wipe out the air, wouldn't it?
Want a better way? Try R-152A or canned computer duster. Ozone safer than R-134A and cheaper to find. Walmart, OfficeMax, Office Depot and Staples.....
You couldmess it up bad doing that, it may not have the cooling capacity as the freon, it may be flammable etc, and can make the oil acidic and wipe out components - if cost is an issue, just remove the a/c altogethr
Wrong wrong wrong. All these videos are WRONG! Air doesn’t hurt an ac system. Moisture doesn’t hurt an ac system. Taking out and replacing a shrader valve doesn’t cause damage to other parts of the ac system. All ac’s have a desiccant material in them. Accumulator/dryer metal can which has the desiccant, or Toyota system where there is no accumulator/dryer but a desiccant tube sock. THAT ABSORBS MOISTURE. If you need to replace a major component of an ac, a tire stem, or “shrader valve” is not a major replacement so no need to worry, you change the desiccant as well. No vacuum needed. The new desiccant accumulator/dryer absorbs the moisture. Your fine, your ac will last with no rust build up over 20 years. Refrigerant NATURALLY drains. Leaks through the rubber VERY SLOWLY in car ac systems. ALWAYS just try adding freon first. Cheapest and easiest thing to do. Just look for pure refrigerant though. The leak seal stuff added in common r134a cans can be an issue down the road perhaps. And as far as leaking refrigerant to replace a part, don’t worry about it. It can’t be proven and it’s a nice scam to get you to pay more than you need to. Noticeably more to. Leak it baby. It isn’t doing as much damage as the amount of co2 is supposedly doing. But why let the boomers take away another thing from us because they did it and feel bad about their lack of self control collectively and narcissistically think they have the right to compel us not to do the same things. Fuckin fake hippie boomers. If they stuck to the anti war and peace and love beliefs maybe things would be a little better for us AND we wouldn’t despise the generation known as boomers.
Thank you!!!! This was how a "How to" video should be! I knew I needed to vacuum out the lines, but other tutorials are very unhelpful in that aspect. You explained everything about the vacuum pump and how to use it in a very understandable and easy to follow manner. I honestly thought my cheap gauges had the open and closed arrows backwards, but your explanation of that makes perfect sense and now I'm actually pulling a vacuum on my system, instead of just in the gauge hoses. I just started the vacuum process about 15 minutes ago, but so far everything is going exactly as your video indicates it should. Thank you again for taking the time to create and upload this video!
Comments like this make my day! Really appreciate it.
@@FarmDad Hey, I have a dumb question.....How much do you tighten the schrader valve? I had a mild loss of vacuum after an hour of the vacuum pump being turned off. I checked the valve and it was tight. I went ahead and refilled the system, after running the vacuum pump again to make sure the hoses were free of air, and I added some UV dye to check for leaks. The only place I can find a leak is around the schrader valve, so I'm thinking I probably over-tightened it.
@@charlieembrey6524 my general rule with tightening anything is tight, but not too tight. I'm sure that doesnt really help you, but it's the best i can describe it. However, I suspect you have a leak elsewhere. I would just let it go until you no longer have cold air and then go back and try to find the leak.
@@charlieembrey6524use a tire valve stem tool
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Like everybody else has commented, I found the details to be straight forward and easy to do myself just watching the video and getting the pump kit and schrader valve! Your video saved me from spending time and money on trying to figure out how to get my air conditioner to work on my 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Thanks again and keep up the great videos! Farmers helping farmers😀
So glad to hear this. Sounds like the video achieved what I aimed to do. Best to you!
12:13 Purging air from yellow hose is extremely important. Good job demonstrating this.
Thank you. Try to film every step.
Ok i need a video of all this being perfectly performed
This is a great video, anyone learning how to do this, should watch this video, am a backyard mechanic and, done everything, besides ac systems, this really helped in depth
Thanks so much!
Farm Dad, I enjoyed the video. I wasn't looking for it, but I'm glad that I happened to see it listed. I just now finishing up on the rebuild of the a/c system on my 93 F-150. Want to say thanks for your efforts, I'm sure that you've helped out a lot of people, including me. Oh, yeah. You've earned a new subscriber, I'm looking forward to checking out your other videos.
You helped me when you mentioned the high side used a different valve. I had already ordered 2 of the low sides. Thanks !
Glad to help
Yes high side is larger than low side
Thank You, doing this to my wife's car. Just changed compressor amd Schroeder valve, I felt if I'm going to do it I should do it right.
The auto store had the tools brand new never used. Some people don't know you can rent them.
Great job, buddy 💪
Nice work dad ! Straight forward and easy to understand... I would have zero hesitation to do this myself now ! Thank you, and all the very best wished for you and your family !
Thanks Bubba!! A/C work isn't too bad.
With my 2014 Range Rover Sport with a R1234-yf system, the shop manual makes a big point of not leaving a vacuum to sit before filling. Not sure why, but I did what they said with my compressor, condenser and drier replacement. So check it’s ok with your system before letting it sit with a vacuum.
A top tip. Get a container with water a bit warmer that room temp. Put the can of 134 in the container of water, it keeps the can from getting frost on it, the 134 goes in more quickly. This what I do each, and the can empties more quickly.
Yes sir. That works like a charm.
Just a quick tip. You really want to more slowly bleed refrigerant into the system. Seen way too many Crack that valve open and slug that compressor to oblivion.
@@claydand2420 I’ve even seen folks lock their compressor up!!! Oil doesn’t compress well. Nor does liquid refrigerant.
The Appion core tool and its clones allows you to change a Schrader valve without losing any refrigerant. The valve core is unscrewed inside of the tool, pulled up, and a valve is shut, then the top can be unscrewed and a new core installed. Unfortunately for R134a fittings on vehicles, I have not seen a loss-less core replacement tool. If you’re working on an old vehicle that uses R12, one of these would come in very handy if you haven’t lost that much refrigerant yet and don’t want to retrofit 134.
Best video I've seen on UA-cam about automobile AC repair and charging the system. Subscribed!!!😊😊
Wow! Thanks so much!
Do you need to add compressor pag oil when changing valve ??
Was just thinking the same thing. I think some cans of freon have oil built in them as well, but that wasn't mentioned, so Waiting for a response to this!
@@mrobison68 yea he sucked all the oil out of the system and didn't replace it (on camera anyway) @mrobinson68
replaced my shraeder valve using this same kit and discovered it's leaking again although it's been almost 2 years ago.
Useful to mention that most cars tell you how much refrigerant to put in the system on a sticker. That way you know how many cans to have and when you are close to being full.
Good tip. Those Schrader valves should definitely last longer than that! Darn.
nice job on removing the refrigerant from the system. DA
Nice video learned to use the gauge now. If I had to ding anything it would be when you pull the vacuum where does the oil in the system go and you didn’t show putting oil back in just showing adding the can of Freon.
Thank you. Vacuuming does not pull oil from the system. Since this system was evacuated and then immediately refilled, it did not require oil.
@@FarmDad thanks a billion, the ding was removed 😅
This video is very helpful. I only went here to learn about replacing the schrader valve but I learned the whole process 😊.
I and my husband recently bought an old car and our AC keeps getting hot only weeks after getting charged. Since we don't know how to troubleshoot the system, the shop only keeps letting us charge the AC. We even got the condenser replaced because they saw some leak when they did the bubble test.
They didn't even bother checking if the schrader valve had leaks. I had to check videos online on where AC leaks may be other than what we already knew and I was shocked to see our car's schrader valve on low is very oily and dripping with what I assume may be the refrigerant.
Another thing is I asked my husband if they do the same thing you did on the video and he said that they only installed the manifold gauges and recharge the system soon after that.
Sad thing is, there are only very few car AC technicians in the area and both had already disappointed us so we're now relying on learning this ourselves so we can do it ourselves and not get scammed again 😅.
Sorry to hear you've had bad luck with your local technicians.
If you find yourself having to replace the Hi Side service port like I do, look for a new port that has the schrader valve built in. Part # “Dorman 800-955” and this is GM specific. The cheap spring loaded rubber ball installed by GM will fail in time, so with this new part, you’ll be able to R&R that schrader if it fails in the future without losing your Freon and having to do the vacuum down part of this repair. Cheers
Thank you for the tip 👍
Yup mine went bad lost all my r134a now have replace it all
Great video sir
Thank you!
Thanks for this information. Will need to do this soon as I know my valve is leaking.
Glad to help!
@@FarmDad Btw thanks for the different style of tops on the ac cans. I had and older style that did fit but was not emptying the refrigerant. Now I know why.
I like to line up blue painters tape with gauge needle to have a visual line to vacuum level.
Good tip!
Very informative. Thanks.
Glad you thought so. I appreciate you.
Does vacuuming the system down also remove the moisture from the receiver drier or does it need to be replaced?
It's best to replace, but I have occasionally not done that, particularly if the system was only open very briefly.
I didn’t see at the end did you open the high pressure when you where applying the refrigerant?
Yes at what point do you open high side valve!?
@@jdavid8569 You don’t. You fill through the low side. Open the high side if you want to check the pressure. Lots of refill kits only come with a low side hose.
Not available on Amazon
Any videos on how to DIY evacuate the refrigerant from the system prior to working?
Afraid there's not a good diy option that I'm aware of.☹️
I believe no one shows what was done prior to doing all the steps, because they dont want to be seen clearing out refrigerant into air 🤔
I have a question I have seen a lot of videos that say never open the high pressure when doing a vacuum
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but both Low and High ports are fitted on the same line in this truck??
Yes, but they are on opposite sides of the orifice tube.
Very great information! Much appreciated
You are most welcome 😁
THERE IS A TOOL MADE TO CHANGE THE VALVES THAT DOES NOT REQUIRE EMPTYING THE SYSTEM LOOK IT UP.
Yes, I've seen it. I haven't used one, so I'm not sure how effective they are. This video is for the average guy who doesn't have specialized equipment.
Do you also need to do a vacuum of the system when changing the low and high pressure switches?
Only if it completely lost its charge
@@FarmDadfollowing your video right now, I replaced both schrader valves and the pressure switches. Connected the manifold gauge and it’s showing 0 on both the high and low lines. I noticed the high pressure valve was leaking (i recharged the system to 20 psi and saw it go back to 0 almost immediately, while there was hissing coming out of the high pressure valve.)
I just plug the gauges again and doing the vacuum, right now the high is all the way to the max negative while the low pressure has been coming down to the negative right now -20.
The 2002 expedition has been sitting in my driveway for years now and the ac had been shut from before, so im wondering if that leak stay long enough to drain all of the refrigerant.
By the way, when i did the recharge my compresor was cycling on and off rapidly, and i felt a bit of cold air before it went away. I jumped the switch and compresor runs fine (i think).
I will report later on today when I recharge, but so far your video seems on point. Sorry for the long reply but wanted to get your input in case you spot anything.
By the way, the compresor is pulling visible vapor into the air, is that normal?
Excellent Video, subscribed and thanks! You da man!
Appreciate you!
So, you dont ad oil for the compressor?
No
I've been watching various videos of this repair... My only question, Does oil not need to be added? I've seen some say yes, some say no. This is only for evacuation and recharge, not replacing anything. Thanks for the help!
This is a grey area. My general rule is not to add oil unless I'm replacing a major component. It's actually somewhat difficult to judge accurately how much oil to add and you don't want too much.
@@FarmDad Yeah, I'll probably go with no oil after watching your video and reading through stuff. Maybe a bit of oil/dye if any. Thank you for the reply!
What oil are yall talking about
@@tylerparker3024 PAG oil, which lubricates the compressor.
Shoot i didnt even know that was a thing. Makes sense. It goes in the same place the freon does or os there a place in the compressor for it?
Theres different sizes theres long theres shorts. Pretty sure i saw black ring on rhat shrader?? Was it a shorty?
Only thing i would recommend is to go off how many pounds of refrigerant should go in your car and not just the pressure. Only went by the pressure after spending months fixing leaks on my 1999 jeep cherokee sport and when i was recharging it the psi stayed at about 25psi when it needed to be around 45 and i finished a second can when i should’ve only used about 3/4 of it and caused a new leak. To say i am upset with myself would be an understatement lol. Great video though
Good tip, man.
Very good information
Thank you
Welcome!
so will a bad schrader valve prevent from being able to refill the system ??
Technically, yes, but I rarely see that.
You do not have to evacuate the system to change shrader valves they have a tool just for this and you can change them without having to remove anything the charge stays in the system.
Nope! Did my research on this tool and too many bad experiences. Won’t waste my money on that tool. It’s Not cheap. I’m just going to recover and vacuum system.
I went to get my ac unit checked and they claim the schrader valve is bad. Should i try to tighten them if loose then spray some water to see if bubbling occurs. They want $205 to recharge and replace valves. Hopefully they run the vaccum pump long enough when I have redo it.
Yes, definitely try to tighten it. If that doesn't work, $205 sounds pretty reasonable to me.
There's a $50 tool that allows you to replace the Shraeder valve without losing refrigerant. Mastercool (58531) Black R134A Valve Core Remover. HVAC techs also use it.
I was charged 650 to replace mines
@@wim0104 if you use that valve core remover that you mentioned, do you have to use the vacuum like he did in the video? Does it keep all air from entering?
0:33 - 1:12 How does soapy water affect a closed refrigerant circuit (maybe you used compressed air to remove the soapy water off camera.)
The system has a higher pressure than the outside atmosphere so no soapy water is able to get into the system. Furthermore, when you pull vacuum for an extended period as I do later in the video, any moisture in the system is removed.
@@FarmDad Thanks for the explanation. I'm a little over a year into night refrigeration school (4yr program, 2yrs full-time) and I was wondering if the soap in the solution were considered 'non-condensables' and would be pulled into the oil upon evacuation.
Hi there, great video. In the event where there was still a charge to the system, do you need to hook up a container to collect the freon that is evacuated?
Yes, it is illegal to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere. However, a lot of people do it.
Thanks
Welcome!
link that amazon extreme thing?
Is this what you are referring to? amzn.to/3bVpKK5
Awesome video. Thank you, easy steps to follow. Also, I noticed that your truck is similar to my Chevy. Would you consider doing a video on adding a second battery?
Thanks,man! Since mine is a diesel, it came factory with the second battery.
Someone make a video replacing the poppet ball type
Open your high side first and verify that it pulls the low side down before you drack the blue handle on the guage - the longer you vacuum the better
Dude that pump looks identical to my Robinair
I also have a robinair. I like it better, but would have never spent the big bucks for it had I known about these
Thank you...gracias.
De nada!
Product not as described. I bought the vacuum system and it didn't come with the fitting for the new type of refrigerant. I got a new fitting from local parts store... it didn't thread into the vacuum system at all... ended up getting another low system adapter for new canisters ...
Please put that in an Amazon review and return it. The one I bought definitely came with the fittings for the new type of refrigerant.
If the system holds less than 5 lbs of refrigerant it's considered "de minimus" and it was allowed by the EPA to be vented. Don't know if they have changed that rule in the last 20 years
Interesting! I was not aware of that!
The "de minimus" rule is aimed at very small amounts of leaked refrigerant, most commonly from purging the hoses with a very small amount of refrigerant just prior to use. I am EPA 608 type 1 and 609 MVAC certified.. If you let out ANY refrigerant intentionally, it is called venting, and it is expressly not allowed by the EPA (which shouldn't have the power it does BTW) and you may be fined if caught.
The Freon leaked out, should I be concerned about the pag oil?
Usually not much oil is lost. It's very difficult to know how much oil to use to replace as well. I do not add oil unless performing a major service.
The ac can going to the tic aluminum tube, or the tiny one???
I'm not sure what you are asking, but the refrigerant can will only be able to connect to your low pressure port.
@@FarmDad yes. But wich one is the low pressure because there's two valve looks same
@@shalem77 the one it'll connect to.
The blue fitting is the low side port in this video. It will be the smaller of the two ports. Always add Freon to the low side port.
If you put the system in a vacuum, charge into the high side as much as it will take, then shut the high side valve and wait until pressure has equalized - then start the compressor and slowly bleed the remainer of the charge into the lowside very little at a time until it is all in.
Are the cars AC schraeder valves the 1/4" size or the 5/16" size?
Afraid I don't know off hand. Most are the same standard size, whatever that is, but I think it's possible to find other sizes. Maybe buy an assortment?
@@FarmDad thnx dude
good vid,maybe could have showed more end result of gauge reading while completing charge.
10-4, thank you for the feedback.
Ok, so a few things, did u empty the system/ evacuate, before doing all this, i know ZERO so thats why im asking,i see so many people totally skipping that part, i can do the gauge thing and vacuum, but i feel lost reading something about the yellow line🤷
It is illegal to empty the system yourself (but common for people to do it). This is why it's not covered in videos.
You can recover it into another cylinder
I've used that xtreme power kit. The case is nice but the rest isn't. The pump is unreliable, the manifold gauges are just ok, the can tap is left hand threaded and they don't provide an adapter to connect it to the yellow line.
For what I paid, I'm happy with it. Ain't as good as my robinair stuff, but I've used it 3-4 times since then and it hasn't let me down. Maybe some are built better than others. Quality control seems to be an issue with just about everything these days.
@@FarmDad It does have a lot of good reviews. In mine the pump was flakey right out of the box. I turned it off after 10 minutes and it would not turn back on. Just start/stop/start/stop. I saw in your video the can tap looked like it had a right hand thread, but mine was left and other reviewers hit the same issue. Price was good but the delta between that kit and a better grade isn't that much.
Do I have to evacuate my system before putting the valve on
Any time the system is open, moisture is introduced, so yes, you should pull a vacuum to boil out that moisture.
@@FarmDad ok thanks man 👍
What is the Fee to subscribe to Farm Dad website I don't see it told anywhere I looked.
Hi! I don't have a website yet, but you can subscribe to my UA-cam channel for free by clicking on the "subscribe" link on this video. Or you can follow us for free on Facebook at m.facebook.com/FarmDadUA-cam/. Thanks so much!
you look totally different i have question the guy at tire shop emptied all my freon do i need to vacuum it out still
Haha, I donated my hair. Yes, if your system is empty you will need to vacuum it to remove moisture from it.
U vaccuum out the air in the system so it's pure refrigerant. I never do it lol
@@bbltd.3154 bet your a/c is never really pumping out that cold
@Kelli Smith well, it's pumping out cold just fine. Anytime I had a system out of refrigerant, I just repair the leak, and fill it back up. Vaccuum is a scam
Mine would not come out and I'm afraid the port is damaged
Let's go 🙂😄
I didn't see you replace the high side valve.
The high side valve is a one- time use item. If you don't replace it, it WILL develop a leak.
Use Dorman part 800-955 which is the same design as the low side and won't develop a leak.
I thought it was mentioned in the video but can't really remember. You are correct and this one was replaced.
That new walmart can on the left, is the right can to buy. Only buy pure R-134A. NEVER get that leak stop crap. Never....... Stay far away from it. Pure R-134A. Now dye is okay in SMALL dosages. Doesn't take hardly a full ounce of dye. Stuff goes all over the place LOL.
I thought he was going to point out how everybody was replacing Schrader valves the wrong way
I did. They are not vacuuming the system before recharging.
He sure did explain it. When systems are opened, air enters. The air is laden with moisture. Moisture in an ac system reduces efficiency of refrigerant cycles, and it creates an environment for corrosion throughout the entire ac systems internal parts.
Only way to get moisture down is to suck it out . If you skip this step you will think you fixed the system, until it eventually fails from unnecessary internal corrosion .
@@wdavidson4761 well said!
I thought the same thing, it’s all in the wording of the title. It should be titled “How to recharge AC correctly” lol
I believe is not the actual replacement,but the steps they not taking before filling system,i do not know correct terminology
I had that valve replaced twice and it still leaks
Hey Dad looks like its time for a garage sale.
Everything we own is stored in here as we are currently living in the barn because lumber prices went up so high and we had to stop construction of our house.
The best part about buying the kit from Amazon is returning it! 😂 that way it’s really just a rental. 🤣🤣 I’m just kidding. Don’t do that!
I do it all the time😏
Shade tree mechanic pro tip…
Don’t order the vacuum pump, just hook up your can of refrigerant and start pumping it into the system while slightly pushing the high side valve down for a few seconds until you get air coming out and then oil and refrigerant will start coming out, at which point you would then release the valve. NO MORE AIR IN THE SYSTEM!!!
Wow thanks for the tip my question I lost all my refrigerant cause my high side valve went out i order a kit to fix all valves and says my system is 36 oz do I need get the can of stuff that says oil/ stop leak it's 7 oz and then get the cans of r134a in till my gauges say full I will do your tip to is that with my car running to?
You will still have air and possibly moisture that will lead to future issues
The mechanic said mine got stuck because it's an old car, and they tried to unscrew the entire thing, and it didn't budge, now they said they have to pick apart the car to pull out the pipes, sounds like it's gonna cost me, wtf
That could happen. Bummer
What happens while you are filling it up through the low pressure valve you open the high pressure valve until the refrigerant starts to come out. It would also wipe out the air, wouldn't it?
Like where your head is at but a better evac is 2 hours or ALL NIGHT.
Never going to reach 30 in mg. Also every 1k above sea level will drop your vacuum gauge reading. What you DO need is a micro gauge. Look them up.
wanna sell that olympic bar on the floor?
Want a better way? Try R-152A or canned computer duster. Ozone safer than R-134A and cheaper to find. Walmart, OfficeMax, Office Depot and Staples.....
You couldmess it up bad doing that, it may not have the cooling capacity as the freon, it may be flammable etc, and can make the oil acidic and wipe out components - if cost is an issue, just remove the a/c altogethr
You must be a troll making it harder than it is. I vote no thanks.
Weirdest logic ever, right here.
Wrong wrong wrong. All these videos are WRONG! Air doesn’t hurt an ac system. Moisture doesn’t hurt an ac system. Taking out and replacing a shrader valve doesn’t cause damage to other parts of the ac system.
All ac’s have a desiccant material in them. Accumulator/dryer metal can which has the desiccant, or Toyota system where there is no accumulator/dryer but a desiccant tube sock. THAT ABSORBS MOISTURE. If you need to replace a major component of an ac, a tire stem, or “shrader valve” is not a major replacement so no need to worry, you change the desiccant as well. No vacuum needed. The new desiccant accumulator/dryer absorbs the moisture. Your fine, your ac will last with no rust build up over 20 years.
Refrigerant NATURALLY drains. Leaks through the rubber VERY SLOWLY in car ac systems. ALWAYS just try adding freon first. Cheapest and easiest thing to do. Just look for pure refrigerant though. The leak seal stuff added in common r134a cans can be an issue down the road perhaps.
And as far as leaking refrigerant to replace a part, don’t worry about it. It can’t be proven and it’s a nice scam to get you to pay more than you need to. Noticeably more to.
Leak it baby. It isn’t doing as much damage as the amount of co2 is supposedly doing. But why let the boomers take away another thing from us because they did it and feel bad about their lack of self control collectively and narcissistically think they have the right to compel us not to do the same things. Fuckin fake hippie boomers. If they stuck to the anti war and peace and love beliefs maybe things would be a little better for us AND we wouldn’t despise the generation known as boomers.
Trust no boomers
@@misterx4088don’t trust the boomers, how about the bangers?