I used one of these 'tools' by Master something or another, and couldn't take the valve out after multiple tries at multiple occasions. The valve would come loose (I could feel it) and it just would not go thru the skinny ass tool that its supposed to go thru to pull it thru. I even loosened the connections so that the o-rings would'nt be over-compressed, etc. thus preventing it from being retrieved. The schrader was detached from the system, but couldn't be pulled out thru the tool, and just got stuck and fell between the valve switch I got frustrated after a few months of trying and just let the pressure out of the system then pulled it out. Them damn tools don't seem to work (except on youtube videos)... After removing the schrader and placing it on the tool, it seemed to grab pretty good, but for some reason, didn't want to go thru to the other end of the tool (between the cutoff valve) in order to pull it out. I seriously am pissed... Maybe this version of the tool has a wider shaft, but the one I had made by the same company... well doesn't do very well.
I just bought this kit. Does not work with BMW valves. The valve body isn’t long enough to get the ball valve closed with the large BMW core in the tool. If the valve body was 1/4” longer it would work fine. Major oversight by Mastercool.
@@SujitGovindraj no, not yet. It’s winter here in Canada and I’ve been busy with other projects. I’ll resume my search soon. If you find something please let me know! Modifying this Mastercool kit might be the only option, unless I can find out which tool the BMW dealers use.
@@abel4776 I had it apart several times to see if there was any way to make it work. The BMW valve cores are just too long. I tried it first off the car to make sure it would be ok and it wasn’t, so I never even got to try it on the car.
very nice step by step - clear, concise. ? for you - is the valve core the same for both the low and high side? Im looking to buy a kit of valve cores and am wondering if i should get an assortment - workin on a 2000 subaru forester. Thanks.
Thank you so much! I believe it was. I ordered the cores from Rock Auto, saved me from having a bunch of random parts kicking around that I may or may not use.
Great tool and well worth the money if you do this type work for a living but if you only do this to specific vehicles once in a while, it's rather expensive for a specific application. My Dodge Ram has a much larger High Side Core than the low side and I can't find a specific tool like this for my specific application. Any help?
No matter what the forums say, if you lose the low port side cap, cover it asap! Had a leak in the L side valve due to debris. Easy fix but forums will say its ok to leave it
Hi sir, should i replace that valve? Each of my recharge lasts only 1 1/2 week. When i opened the low valve cap i hear quick hiss. Like opening a weak coke bottle. Thanks.
You definitely have a leak there. If you have oil around the valve, you have a significant leak. I would replace the valve. Keep in mind, though, that this may not be your ONLY leak. If you find that you no longer have to periodically charge the system after changing the valve, you have found your problem. Otherwise, you have another leak elsewhere.
My ac has a leak every time I add refrigerant I see the green oil on the cap and inside around the valve, I'm guessing the leak is the valve am I right?
You linked to the Mastercool 58490, which is universal. But I also see a 58560 and 58531 which are solely for Eaton / Standard and JRA respectively, and obvs, cheaper. Any hints on how to tell which you have, eg: Honda?
I wish I still had my 1999 Pre Runner instead of trading it in for a 2017 F-150. I'd have $40k more money and a better truck. If Toyota had their act together they would have designed their trucks to be flat towed behind an RV like Ford, GM & Ram trucks are. Then I would still have a Toyota. My F-150 with 25k miles is in the shop getting the A/C fixed. My Tacoma with 140k miles only needed a starter solenoid in addition to brakes and usual wear items in almost 20 years.
Unfortunately all the new vehicles have plenty of problems, they are no longer built to last. The newest vehicle I have is a 2010 and I highly doubt I’ll be going and you were ever. I’m planning on getting an old truck this year hopefully.
The tool I bought doesn't grip onto the Schrader valves to pull them out. How do I get it to hold onto the valve so I can pull it up? Just bought a kit on Amazon
I used one of these 'tools' by Master something or another, and couldn't take the valve out after multiple tries at multiple occasions. The valve would come loose (I could feel it) and it just would not go thru the skinny ass tool that its supposed to go thru to pull it thru. I even loosened the connections so that the o-rings would'nt be over-compressed, etc. thus preventing it from being retrieved. The schrader was detached from the system, but couldn't be pulled out thru the tool, and just got stuck and fell between the valve switch I got frustrated after a few months of trying and just let the pressure out of the system then pulled it out. Them damn tools don't seem to work (except on youtube videos)... After removing the schrader and placing it on the tool, it seemed to grab pretty good, but for some reason, didn't want to go thru to the other end of the tool (between the cutoff valve) in order to pull it out. I seriously am pissed... Maybe this version of the tool has a wider shaft, but the one I had made by the same company... well doesn't do very well.
That’s one very expensive tool kit
THANK YOU
You're welcome!
I just bought this kit. Does not work with BMW valves. The valve body isn’t long enough to get the ball valve closed with the large BMW core in the tool. If the valve body was 1/4” longer it would work fine. Major oversight by Mastercool.
Were you able to find one that works. I have a 2018 54i.
540i
@@SujitGovindraj no, not yet. It’s winter here in Canada and I’ve been busy with other projects. I’ll resume my search soon.
If you find something please let me know! Modifying this Mastercool kit might be the only option, unless I can find out which tool the BMW dealers use.
@@abel4776 I had it apart several times to see if there was any way to make it work. The BMW valve cores are just too long. I tried it first off the car to make sure it would be ok and it wasn’t, so I never even got to try it on the car.
Thank you for introducing the way to replace the Schrader needle without losing the vacuum in the system. Now I need to find that tool. 😅
You're very welcome!
@@apostolicway2604I found two tools but they were cheap china knockoffs and could not hold the pressure. Ended up doing the vacuum still. 😅
I found the Mastercraft tool on Amazon
Fantastic upload my friend,, healthy greetings from Indonesia 👍🤝🙏🥰🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩
Thank you so much!
very nice step by step - clear, concise. ? for you - is the valve core the same for both the low and high side? Im looking to buy a kit of valve cores and am wondering if i should get an assortment - workin on a 2000 subaru forester. Thanks.
Thank you so much! I believe it was. I ordered the cores from Rock Auto, saved me from having a bunch of random parts kicking around that I may or may not use.
@@4DIYers good idea! I'll take a look out at rock auto -
That is one nifty ass tool. I appreciate the tutorial!
No problem, happy to help! It's a little more pricey, but beats having to pay shop rates especially if this is needed for more than one vehicle.
@@4DIYers what kinda $ would you figure If a rsx needed the Schrader valves replaced
Great tool and well worth the money if you do this type work for a living but if you only do this to specific vehicles once in a while, it's rather expensive for a specific application. My Dodge Ram has a much larger High Side Core than the low side and I can't find a specific tool like this for my specific application. Any help?
You may have to have a shop empty the system then change The valves vacuum and recharge.
No matter what the forums say, if you lose the low port side cap, cover it asap! Had a leak in the L side valve due to debris. Easy fix but forums will say its ok to leave it
Replaced valve 2x and it's still leaking... around the sides...
Hi sir, should i replace that valve? Each of my recharge lasts only 1 1/2 week. When i opened the low valve cap i hear quick hiss. Like opening a weak coke bottle. Thanks.
You definitely have a leak there. If you have oil around the valve, you have a significant leak. I would replace the valve.
Keep in mind, though, that this may not be your ONLY leak. If you find that you no longer have to periodically charge the system after changing the valve, you have found your problem. Otherwise, you have another leak elsewhere.
My ac has a leak every time I add refrigerant I see the green oil on the cap and inside around the valve, I'm guessing the leak is the valve am I right?
Most likely that is the issue. You can also add a dye to the system to be sure and I do have a video on that.
Good job. Well explained
Thank you!
You linked to the Mastercool 58490, which is universal. But I also see a 58560 and 58531 which are solely for Eaton / Standard and JRA respectively, and obvs, cheaper. Any hints on how to tell which you have, eg: Honda?
I wish I still had my 1999 Pre Runner instead of trading it in for a 2017 F-150. I'd have $40k more money and a better truck. If Toyota had their act together they would have designed their trucks to be flat towed behind an RV like Ford, GM & Ram trucks are. Then I would still have a Toyota. My F-150 with 25k miles is in the shop getting the A/C fixed. My Tacoma with 140k miles only needed a starter solenoid in addition to brakes and usual wear items in almost 20 years.
Unfortunately all the new vehicles have plenty of problems, they are no longer built to last. The newest vehicle I have is a 2010 and I highly doubt I’ll be going and you were ever. I’m planning on getting an old truck this year hopefully.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
The tool I bought doesn't grip onto the Schrader valves to pull them out. How do I get it to hold onto the valve so I can pull it up? Just bought a kit on Amazon
Is it the same brand as what I used in the video or different? These have an o-ring in the tips to grab onto the valve.
That tool is sold out
How did you diagnose the schrader valve as the leak? Fill it up with dye, clean the valve to remove the dye and then check it with the uv light ?
Yes I did, here is the video ua-cam.com/video/BeveZk9ql0g/v-deo.html
1) the cap was wet from inside. 2) I placed ear next to port and heard hissing from it.
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