I have Astros for 25 years and I have this problem about the last 7 years off and on. When there is fog, rain or super cold this problem comes up. I found if I run heat under the engine the car will start after the engine dries out . I get a A/C DELCO cap and rotor and the problem will go away for 1 or 2 years . I have tried all different brands but A/C DELCO WORKS FOR ME. I will look at the pins on the cap and see if there are alum or brass . great video thanks I subscribed
Awesome! My neighbor's 99 Blazer goes through distributor caps every 18 months like clockwork. I tried all different brands, even ACDelco! Last time it happened I cleaned the pins and sprayed the whole thing with WD-40...no comebacks yet :)
@@jvictor9658use marine grade rotor and cap made for the 4.3 … this on/off hard/ no start issue is all related to oxidation/ light moisture on the cap points. Marine grade cap uses brass points which resist this come moisture issue… new cap and rotors will usually fix these issues for a few months… then it returns… use brass for longer service life of cap.
Hey Ivan thanks for the video. I have a customer with a Chevy S10 who had a similar problem. It was a crank no start scenario. I pulled the cover off of the ignition switch and noticed the sensor for the "key in ignition" was misaligned. I put the key in the ignition and sometimes it would make the switch others times it would not. I was able to get a valid code and such but it did not see the key in the ignition. I was able to repair the switch and get it to start. It was kind of a fluke thing but thus far after a couple of months the vehicle has started without issue. So if that happens again see if the PID for the "key in ignition" is present. Just an FYI. Thanks again for the videos. Keep up the good work.
I'm having that same problem after someone tried to steel my van from my mom's. They broke my key ignition cylinder and ripped my column housing. I installed a new key cylinder but now it's doing the same things you guys are going through. Great video. Thanks for uploading.
im a mechanic of 40 years, worked on everything under the sun.. i also have a 2003 astro van, which also has a wornout key... my van did the same identical thing, wouldnt start, if you waited for a while, some times up to 24 hours., it will just start right up and run normal..it slowly got worse and started doing this more often until one day it wouldnt start...pulled cap and rotor, at which point i noticed alot of up and down motion in the distributor shaft, i pulled the dist. and found the dist. gear at the end of shaft totally worn to nothing, put a a new dist. in and has been running like a new one since, been 7 months and no problems what so ever......
I have a 98 Astro and been running and starting up with no problem . I let it sit for 2 weeks and now it wont start.It has a new battery,fuel pump and mass air flow replaced but still nothing..I don't know what it can be..Any suggestions?
was the security light on when it wouldn't start? because I'm have the same problems with my 98 astro. I notice when it won't start the security light stays on. I turn the key wait for the security light to go off then it will start but if it doesn't go off it won't start.
my friend, problems such as this can be frustrating, especially ones that are intermittent. If, I may say just from looking at this video you have an issue with the alarm system but you already know that from the code. First, Look at the time 10:54 t this is the reason why vehicle won't start. With the Key off passlock sensor should read 5v. With the Key in the run position should change from 5v to between 1-3 volts. In your case your passlock sensor is showing 5v in the off and on position when not starting. You notice when it read 1.71v vehicle starts that is because BCM reads the passlock sensor withing specification. Also, if you ever want to know if there is a security issue go under engine data and when vehicle doesn't start look at the VTD Fuel disable pid; when cranknig it should read Inactive. If, it says active the pcm will disable fuel injector driver for the first seconds. I know this vehicle starts now but if it the problems returns, do this. Grab a scope check power, ground, passlock sensor and also scope it at the bcm while cranking. These results will tell you whether is a connector, power, ground, wire, passlock sensor or bcm. Also, this could be due to key lost its programming. I'm thinking you have an issue with the passlock sensor connector because you have turned the key on and off so many times that somehow it started to read the signal correctly. Good luck, brother.
+Techman1076 Thanks man. Yeah a lot of variables here. It did eventually start and run by flooring and pumping the gas, so I have to conclude that at least part of the problem was flooding/bad gas. Will definitely post a follow-up if the problem returns!
If it was the security system then it should have disabled the fuel pump or ignition. I think it was almost empty tank with some water in tank also since it tried to start. I add methyl Hydrate every winter to clear up the tanks condensation on my 1998 GMC Safari and keep tank half full. Fuel pumps don't like near empty tanks in winter if old. Great video. 5 star one.
I forgot to thank you for your efforts on making these videos....they are much appreciated....I do a similar line of work on finding issues...I realize that making videos slows you down. You are very good at what you do. I always give you the thumbs up!
I know this is an old video, but I'll add my $0.02. The problem is with the ignition lock cylinder. On these, the passlock system "resistor" is in the lock cylinder, not the key. The system looks for tampering with the lock cylinder. The problem was shown several times on the scan tool, then the passlock code showed "open" that means that there is no contact with the security resistor in the lock cylinder. The voltage when the circuit is open is 5V, but it drops to a specific learned voltage when the passlock resistor is connected to the circuit. This is similar to the previous gen Passlock system (I think it was called passlock 2, the one with the resistor pellet visible on the key) but the resistor is now in the lock cylinder and not the key. I believe the PCM wants to see the password from the BCM before it starts cranking, which means the BCM needs to see the correct passlock voltage from the lock cylinder before cranking. I've seen several of these, especially on the lock cylinder style that was in the dash and not on the column (like Impalas, Cobalts, Saturn Ions from this era). The Passlock sensor circuit would be open with the key on and sometimes would get contact when you turn the key to crank, but that can be too late. That being said, it also kinda sounded like the maybe the poppets were sticking in the injectors, since it would hit and miss then pop out the intake. Maybe multiple issues at the same time. It had enough fuel to start, as the customer said. You know that because you showed right at the beginning of the video that it had 60psi of fuel pressure with the pump running.
You may have something there. When the fuel gauge reads 1/2 i consider that empty & i do use Marvel Mystery oil & that seems to keep things tickety boo. Cold weather brings on strangest things.
Some GM vehicles with the Passlock system had a problem where the grease inside the ignition cylinder would thicken up in cold temperatures and prevent the proper resistance signal from being registered. I believe they released an updated part that fixed that problem.
Your video saved my family's all together butt's.You was working on the same van and the same issues. I'm subscribed now and will be ready for more knowledge to help me and my family with my problems.Hopeful that i need none for the rest of the winter.So thank you and much respect.🤘
To determine if a crank/no start or start/stall condition is being caused by a passlock theft deterrent concern, perform the following steps: Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle, turn ignition to the on position Select the "POWERTRAIN" option Select "DATA DISPLAY" Select engine data and look for the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" parameter Crank the engine, If the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "ACTIVE", The passlock theft deterrent system is disabling the fuel and you need to follow theft deterrent diagnosis. When the engine is cranked, if the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "INACTIVE", The no start condition is NOT being caused by a theft deterrent concern and normal no start diagnostic should be followed.. Please follow this diagnostic
+Jeff Armer -> VTD FUEL DISABLE indicates ACTIVE ua-cam.com/video/RjKblM4VH9E/v-deo.htmlm45s +danekeeper1 "the detector ring in the ignition lock could be weak/ cold" This is a typical case in cars Fiat (FIAT CODE/code2/ system Its the same as GM and many other older cars). Bad communication between the coil and the receiver in the key (RFID module) causes the random occurrence of an error without "Code" or "Security" light. Repair? change coils on new and make a new key (with the appropriate RFID chip) (not always you need a new key, but for sure in the case of used key is evidently in bad condition).
I had this problem on my 97 Astro. Any time it rained or snowed it wouldn't start, so I changed the plug wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, and it still persisted. So one day I took off the cap and I noticed aluminum oxide on the contacts. I cleaned the contacts and it started right up, but it would only last a couple of months before I would have to clean it again. I finally got a dist. cap with brass contacts and it hasn't happened since.
What brand was the one you got, i'm having the same issue and i'm can't afford not having my work van.Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Astro Vans don't like cold weathers. mine has gotten to the point where I need to spray fuel injector fluid into the carburetor to get it to start. I think the Astro Vans have an issue with the fuel injectors I'm not experienced just guesses
deff was moisture issue my 2000 astro awd sat all winter needing a trans and it coughed and sputtered the same till finally got it started and let it run for hrs with the heat on cranking to dry everything out
The quickest and easiest method to determine if fuel supply is the issue would be using starting fluid. Just spray a bit into the intake tube and give it a moment to evaporate. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds and then dies, you'll know for sure it's the fuel supply. Once that's been eliminated, check for spark. If there is no spark on any plugs, I'd assume something was wrong with the ICM, coil packs or ECU. Go down the line to check in sequence. If all checks out, check the crank position sensor. If you need wiring diagrams let me know.
Like all ECU/PCM/BCM/etc vehicles do...I can't remember how many people bring me a car and say "It does it all the time" and we go for a drive and they say "It's not doing it now"..
The most common issue on any of the VORTEC engines is the ignition cap and rotor going bad. No follow up to this video? When the cap and rotor go bad you’ll see good spark outside the compression chamber, but it will fail under compression. That’s why you get the “almost starts” condition. When I get a call like this (I’m a mobile mechanic), I bring a cap and rotor, especially if they say “it sounds like it wants to start”. The cap needs a seal on it so that moisture doesn’t build up on the inside of the cap. VERY COMMON! Then when you put a new cap and rotor on it will take a few cranks but will eventually start. Then heavy smoke out the tailpipe for unburned fuel. Engine actually gets flooded. Crank the engine with WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to clear built up fuel. On the Astro it’s very easy. On the trucks it takes some effort because the distributor is in the back of the engine. The right tools make a shot ton of difference. Always monitor your fuel pressure and spark.
I had the same problem on safari van. I cleaned up and rewired the ground on fuel pump and it fixed the problem. Everything else was done and didn't help.
You may experience a start/stall condition with a code P1626 or P1631 set in the PCM. An extended crank condition may cause a code P1626 or P1631 to set when there is no related theft deterrent codes.
I hate to say it, but there was no diagnostics nor remedies established.....this is a nightmare job.....BUT, it will be something that we'll learn from......I have to respect Ivan......but I can say they that what will happen is that you will tire from trying to keep abreast of new tech, new parts, new specs and new testing methods....... Make your money now, because it keeps changing....for the reasons I just told you.....I don't do auto mechanic stuff, but thanks to you, I can....electronic wise.....thanks Ivan. My Chevy 350 doesn't need your computers.....they did/do just fine.
There are no flukes . At 4:50ish you witnessed your actual problem on the scan tool, but unfortunately you were still in the pcm data as opposed to bcm . The vehicle was going into learn mode in and out. This is a typical failure or the pass lock module. Just a heads up. I've hated this passlock system for many years now as there is not a nice enough way to bypass the module after failure
New Level Auto I thinks this is very similar to what you told me yesterday. I saw a PID on his scanner that was a 5V, then dropped to 1.7 or so, which means that the Ignition lock was doing it's job at the time. What's that learn mode about?
Thanks for sharing this one Ivan. Looks like you were having fun with the customer alongside. Must have been nice to have a spare, albeit frozen, hand to do some engine cranking for you! lol
When I could pull the key out of the ignition barrel in one of my older Holden Commodores, the mechanic failed it on a registration inspection so I had to replace the ignition barrel. If it gets very cold where you are the ECU & anti theft module may not see enough voltage so that may also cause the hard starting issue. I noticed recently that my current Commodore which runs the Chevy LS1 engine was harder to start than normal after sitting for a couple of days of not being run,the cranking voltage was down to about 8 volts. The battery was 3 years old & was a bit old,the battery has lost its "oomph" so I replaced it so I wouldn't end up getting stranded with a dead battery. Now,the new battery measures at over 10 volts while cranking when the multimeter is set to the MIN setting,it starts much easier after sitting for a couple of days as the battery holds more charge. I think a couple of cells had shorted plates in them & they were buckled !
Try an AC Delco OEM coil wire. It fixed mine. The aftermarket coil wire was shorting out at the coil. The OEM cable locks on to the coil much better and makes a great seal with the silicone boot around the coil connection.
The most common nonstart issue with these 4.3s is the main plug wire that plugs into the coil, it shorts out, of you wiggle it or zip tie it real tight down, then try to start it, that's the main problem with these chevy vans, blazers.
Older video I know. If I understand the Passlock system correctly, the module looks for the resistance value of the key switch actually being turned. It has to match what is its learned value. If it does not (for instance if the key cylinder was broken and forced) there is no fuel enable message from the module.
It didn't sound like a typical anti theft problem to me, but there is one thing you can check very quick: do a wigle test on the connector on top of the key cylinder. This connector is known to loose connection. This can also set the anti theft code. If you cannot recreate the problem with the tank filled, you could have also condensed water on the bottom of the tank. If the tank goes lower, you would have more and more water in the fuel, since the water is havier and stays on the bottom. With a little bit of fuel in the water, it wouldn't freeze and you would have pressure at the fuel rail. But it could be a water/fuel mix and the car doesn't start.
I had same problem. Grounded coil, changed coil, changed cap and rotor, no luck then I found out about a fuel sensor relay switch under the hood in fuse box. $13.00 and that fixed the problem. Also burned up starter from cranking so much.
Bro..I was just reading through the comments and came across yours. Guess what!! I changed the fuel sensor relay with the ac compressor relay and it turn on. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For writing this comment. It saved me $235 dollars in towing
I had a 99 Astro with intermittant crank no-start. I would crank and crank and crank, and just as I was about to give up, it would start. It was most common on rainy days. The problem turned out to be a bad distributor ( not cap ). It was worn out and was not giving reliable timings. Cheap plastic! I replaced it with an uprated metal one, and the no-start went away, never to return.
I found with my 97 s10 4.3 that when I used even the top of the line cap and rotor from autozone or advanced I had all kinds of starting and running problems, when it rained it wouldn't start at all, so after doing some reading online I ran across a thread where someone had the exact same problem and it was solved by installing a Delco cap and rotor, I was sceptical but I had nothing to lose so advanced had the Delco in stock I bought it, installed it and I never had another problem, that was three years ago, what's the difference between the Delco and the rest I wasted money on, I don't know but it worked, people don't realize that a hairline crack in a cap that you can hardly see will cause all kinds of problems.
I had the same problem if it was rainy or damp....it wouldn't start....new plugs wires cap....didn't matter..then an old farmer told me to use a bead of at high heat orange gasket sealer around the lip of the distributor cap and base flange....it never had a problem starting again ....no matter how wet rainy or damp it was out...it was like magic
I have a 2000 Astro Van, and am experiencing the same problem. Using the Innova 3100 obd2, there are no error codes indicated. Fuel pressure good, and I have spark because the vehicle attempted to fire when I gave it a squirt of ether. I don't have the security light, or any other indicators illuminated on the dash. It seems that I am down to the security system or a mechanical issue. Any thoughts on where to start first? The battery voltage is right up. I am going to pull the coil now to check for a good ground. I am using my reliable old 1976 beast, but this was the time when I needed the AWD feature because of the ice and snow. Bob
I have run into those 4.3 and 5.7 motors with that style cap and rotor have this hard start problem very often. Also those spark plug wires look original and most likely the cap is as well. They are junk and they were even coming junk from aftermarket. I don't know how many of these problems starting like this I have fixed with new cap and rotor but I can say its a lot of them.
when a similar thing happened to my 91 vette ..it was the theft deterrent .. I bypassed it with a resistor ( I bought off ebay ,,I am not that handy) ,,a plug and play cord ,,,resistor was based on the chip in my key ,,as he can pull his key out of the ignition I would actually suspect the KEY as the problem NOT the theft system ..
+deepsquat600 Security keys are a lot different today than back then.....isn't technology wonderful when you have to fix it? Everything is fine so long as you have the money$$$$
Greetings from cold Finland and low batteries. Security codes like DTC P1626 can turn on, due modules like BCM shutting down due battery voltage dropping below 9-10V during cranking. The the serial message from BCM to PCM stops, and the code is set. If PCM has already got the password ok, it will allow the engine to start as it eventually did. Perhaps the challenge to start was some cold related issue? As the engine started, warmed and battery charged a bit and engine was easier to turn over when warm, the code was not set again and you could nor replicate it any more. When it's -20F problems like these seem to happen more often. GM: DTC P1626 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Lost Circuit Description The Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) system is incorporated within the body control module (BCM). The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system to ensure that the PCM to BCM communications is established. *** If the PCM detects a loss of the state of health message while the engine is running, DTC P1626 will set.*** ***DTC P1626 can cause a no-start condition or normal operation depending on when the loss of Theft Deterrent system communication was detected. The engine will continue to start and run if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred _after_ the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password from the BCM and already allowed fuel during the ignition cycle. The engine will start and immediately stall if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred before the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password. With this condition present, the PCM will inhibit fuel delivery and disable the starter until a valid theft deterrent password is detected. Refer to Content Theft Deterrent (CTD) Circuit Description . Conditions for Running the DTC The Theft Deterrent system has allowed fuel delivery. Conditions for Setting the DTC The PCM has detected a loss of the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The PCM stores conditions which were present when the DTC set as Failure Records only. This information will not be stored as Freeze Frame Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC The DTC becomes history when the conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present. The history DTC clears after 40 malfunction free warm-up cycles. The PCM receives a clear code command from the scan tool. Diagnostic Aids For complete serial data line schematics and VTD system diagnosis, refer to Data Link Connector (DLC) Schematics in Data Link Communications and Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Operation in Vehicle Theft Deterrent. An intermittent may be caused by: • A poor connection • Rubbed through wire insulation • A wire broken inside the insulation Check for the following conditions: Important: Several BCM diagnostic procedures call for disconnecting the BCM and then turning the vehicle ignition to the RUN position. These procedures will result in the PCM setting DTC P1626. Therefore, DTC P1626 stored in history may be the result of previous BCM diagnostic work. • Intermittent short circuit on the serial data circuit -- Refer to Data Link Communications Operation in Data Link Communications. Be sure to check all related wiring for an intermittent short to ground or short to voltage. • Poor connection -- Inspect the PCM and BCM harness and connectors for: - Improper mating - Broken locks - Improperly formed or damaged terminals - Poor terminal to wire connection • Damaged harness -- Inspect the wiring harness for damage. Check for an intermittent short or open circuit in the wiring harnesses related to the BCM, including the ignition, battery feed, ground, and Serial Data circuits. Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition. If the DTC cannot be duplicated and is determined to be intermittent, reviewing the Failure Records can be useful in determining when the DTC was last set. Also refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Im having the same code om ny 2003 gm truck.... Rebuilt the engine. Put everything back together and now this doggone code. No security light ( well intermittent but not constant ). Got spark but only tested one coil but that was enough for me, shocked the crap out of me. Fuel pump engages and fuel gets through the line but haven't checked for fuel pressure. Checked all fuses and pins but didn't check all connectors. Checked all grounds, ignition, ignition switch even the sensor on the lock cylinder. I even tried pulling the key out like you did. I've watched this video twice. Gotta watch again in case I'm missing something. Don't have the maz scanner just the OBD2 1350. And my check engine light stays on in the on position.
My 2001 GMC Savana once in awhile will not start and sounds just like this Astro. First time was in very cold weather when it sat a few days. Cranks but no turn over. Next time I think the weather was fine but it just sat maybe 2 days. Another time after a good storm. And once it started right up, moved it, turned it off, hooked up trailer, then it wouldn't start. After each instance the battery gets worn down, the cables come out, and I eventually get it started after an hour or so. Security light is usually normal, but I did notice after finally starting it after a no-start situation it will stay on until I shut it off and restart. Otherwise runs fine with no other issues. Fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, cap replaced 2 years ago. I was thinking it has something to do with the passlock but it seems passlock allows a start but immediately disables the fuel, so I'm still baffled.
My roommates astro does the same thing, if it sets for two days it will not start. if you crank it for about a minute pumping the throttle it will fire up. i think it is either the ignition switch or the spider injectors leaking
You mentioned that you were able to remove the key in the on position. Maybe the lock is the real problem. Try this again and see whether you can reproduce the no crank situation.
Ivan I never had a good scan tool for security codes but I did look at two with identical symptoms. If Markus plugs the block heater in when it gets cold it will start every time. Two things I found was temp switch out of range but no code and weak fuel pump pressure not able to flow enough on cold start. If plugging the block heater in next time fixes it , well we found the problem, if not I'm out to lunch on this one. LOL Hope this helps.
+Steve Rob Hey Steve! Lots of variables here, plus the cold conditions and low fuel in the tank. Heck maybe he filled up down south with "summer blend" and then the fuel wasn't volatile enough up North? Should have tried some starting fluid :)
the weather was the problem combined with not enuf fuel to keep lots of condensation from forming on inside walls of tank. does he ever use any dry gas?
+david goliath I should have sprayed some starting fluid in the intake to get er' going! I'm surprised the battery cranked the engine for as long as it did...
working on an 03 silverado. getting the same code but the vtd data shows that it's disabled with the key on and cranking. smells like fuel in the exhaust and won't crank on starting fluid. it will run fine, wait 2 days and then it won't start. the key comes out in run position also. I found that the resistance on the grounds to the bcm and vtd 3 wire plug on the ignition lock have a whopping 75 to 100 ohms. I tested another 03 silverado and all the grounds have no resistance. I've wiggled wires, checked grounds under cab,battery,engine and body. where is the bcm ground location under the dash?
spark is consistent, fuel pump pressure is 56 psi ,I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter ,crank sensor, rotor cap and rotor, sparkletts plugs , sparkletts plugs wires and still driving me nuts
Has it warmed up at all in the weeks since? Like an almost flat battery does a low temp mean the chip in the key and receiver in the steering column not work, warm them up a bit and they work again for a while. Just a stab in the dark really.
That's it for now! You mean that's it until the next time it rains, or is too humid and wet. I've got the same issue with my GMC Safari minivan. If it does start, when it does start, you can't always count on it bringing you back home. Unless it's already still warmed up. Or there's enough heat coming off the engine to keep the ignition wires dry. I'm guessing? I've got the same exact issue. Very frustrating.
First cold snap- astrovan had no problem w start... but started and stalled... I pressed the gas to keep it going..flooded it and it won't start up now. engine light is on... Any thoughts... Ugg.
Ignition switch power mode mismatch ? Since the operation of the vehicle systems depends on the power mode, there is a fail-safe plan in place should the BCM fail to send a power mode message. The fail-safe plan covers modules with discrete ignition signal inputs as well as those modules using exclusively serial data control of power mode. GM has had ignition switch problems , just ask Eric O.
p1626 means the pass lock code from the switch is going to the bcm but not going to pcm , that means the switch is good (code 3 on data list) the problem was never really present during the diag but being intermittent i would look at the connectors on bcm and pcm
The main no start issue with these 4.3s is the main plug wire that plugs into the coil, ( not the coil wire). This plug shorts out and cuases a no start or stalls when driving, many people dont know about this issue and this is why alot of these gm's are in the scrap yard. I used a zip.tie to tie it dwon so it won't wiggle ,or replace the plug terminal, theres also a healight relay in the dash that runs on tbe same wiring circuit causes issues with the oil pressure sending unit and fuel pump circ, if that relay burns, you wont see it. Unless you know from someone else giving advice about these gm's.
Hope you see this message. I need help. I have the 2001 astro starcraft. The security light is on all the time. Not flashing, just on and the van won't start. Nomater how many times we try a relearn it never goes off and van won't start. I've replaced every part related to the VAT system. Ignition etc. Still won't start. We have spark we have fuel and fuel pressure. Any help would be appreciated and the only code is the p1626. I'm based in the UK so very limited knowledge here. Never had a job like this before and admittedly it's winning and I'm losing. Hate to give up..
Why was the covers for the steering column/ignition switch removed? Looks like they were that way when you got there. I was half expecting that to be related.
+dbishop38 A few years ago he replaced the turn signal stalk for a non-operational cruise control. Guess it was too much of a pain to put the covers back on since you have to pull the steering wheel... BTW I fixed the cruise control when he brought the van to my shop for the first time, after the new stalk didn't fix the problem. The cruise cable had popped off the throttle plate linkage :)
Hi - I am currently dealing with my 2001 GMC Safari - NEW battery, good fuel, but cranking power come morning is just low enough to NOT start it - I need to boost it with a charger in this cold weather. Once I have the charger on it, it starts right up. When running, the alternator is charging it at above 15 - by the dashboard needle gauge and also by the handy dandy volt meter. I plug it in at night - that does NOT help. If I did not use the charger, then my battery would run down and die before the engine started running. The ignition key is weird - it does pull out when it shouldn't. No codes - no CHECK ENGINE light. Nothing draining the power that I can find - no radio, no interior lights... Ideas?
hey i have a 2001 chevy truck 4.3 it had fuel and spark no start thought it turns over fine doing the same thing that van is doing did u find the probelum
Did you ever check if injectors were loosing signal when code present? I know you checked spark, It looks like someon has been working on the ignition switch.
I should add, that after reading some of the other comments, the tank is full of fresh gas, I have tried both keys, and the van has never given an indication of any problem previous to this event. Bob
Listening to the engine , I have to say it sounds as if it was just flooded ! If you would had held the pedal down an cranked it a while it would have started.. They probably started it and then shut it off to fast and left it parked , flooding it ...I had the same issue with my Nissan and it has nothing to do with the security.. They might had came on because of the attempts in starting it.. They must have really flooded it.. Also does the key have a chip in it ? That's another possibility ...
@@slfox804 i was having this issue too, broke out my spare key as my main one was getting a bit smooth, seems that an overly worn key can cause this issue.
cold + old + low battery = erratic Radio Frequency operation (the key sensor + key) - probably the injector pulse would have been the best way to "see" this in "real-time" while cranking... appears the computer doesn't engage the VTD system unless the ignition is turned "without the correct/any key detected"... maybe if the key is loose, and comes out while running try pulling the key out of the barrel while cranking (if that's even practical)
I had the same issue and what worked for me was to move around the wires right above the inintion (secuity password) move them anound or unplug them and put them back then truck would start.
Nearly empty fuel tank, hygroscopic ethanol, condensation in the pump sock, nearly dead battery- trying to communicate, operate dead short relays, electric motors (starter, fuel pump), single-digit temperature molasses oil...
So what was the diagnosis? No gas? Looks like key was pretty worn out to be able to slide out of the ignition cylinder in run position. Time to give dealer VIN and buy a couple new keys.
+juergen scholl I suspect that the anti-theft programming kicks in AFTER the fuel pump prime cycle......Hence, you get that weird "almost firing" sound out of the engine... I need to be corrected if I'm wrong....
+juergen scholl Did not check injector pulse during cranking. Considering it finally started, I'm assuming it was there all along. That would have been the right test to do if it didn't fire up...
My son has a 2006 Impala 3.9. All fuses and relays are good. He had a new fuel pump put in. When he tries to start the car, it only cranks but, when he sprays starter fluid in the vent tube it runs and will not stop running until he shuts it off!? He can drive as much as he wants and the engine will not shut off until he shuts it off. If the fuel pump is new and running, why does the engine stay running after spraying with starter fluid? I was told, when you spray starter fluid and the engines runs, you have a bad fuel pump if it shuts off after a few seconds.I am confused! GOD bless and thanks for any possible solution
Nothing wrong with the fuel pump. Check for codes and look at live data. Might be something as silly as a bad coolant temp sensor causing a wrong fuel mixture on a cold start. Good luck!
This is a weird one for sure......Is that ignition key the type with the internal transponder? I believe that it is......Just throwing this out there....I got to thinking...You were having repeated security issues initially....then, that issue went away....so.....very cold day, a very cold key....but you were pawing that key a lot, increasing its temperature.....could this be a temperature issue with the key transponder ? Just throwing that out there because nothing else seems obvious....
My 2003 express is doing the same thing as this video, except it still won't start. I checked for fuel pressure (60+), checked for spark (plenty), and replaced the spark plugs and wires. I have two keys, both will not start the car. Tried turning into on position, shutting off, tried starting, shutting off, on position, back and forth back and forth...no change. Seems like I can rule out fuel related issues since it's getting enough pressure. I am getting the P1626 code, but no security light ever on the dash. Any ideas?
Should probably add, I was having this problem about a month and a half ago after it sat for 2-3 weeks. I continuously kept trying to start it, and eventually started up. Replaced the battery just in case. Ran fine and started every day for 2 weeks, then I didn't use it for about 4 days and couldn't get it to start up again.
Hey motoyam82, I saw your video for that tucson, well I have an 01 Santa Fe with the 2.7 V6. It recently threw the code of death of PO173, and also now its throwing the code PO171, so both banks are running lean, but I do not hear any valve tapping or ticking, only the injector noise. The stuff I have done are change the plugs and wires but at 2 different times, so I have had the Intake Manifold off twice. I have also broken the OEM pcv hose. I have temporarily replaced that hose with a bigger hose. Would this possibly be sucking in more air if not 100% sealed?, let me know your take on this.
To determine the correct power mode the BCM uses: • The state of these signals/circuits, either switch closed (B+ = 1) or switch open (open = 0) • The status of the engine run flag. The chart indicates the modes detected and transmitted by the BCM:
Same Issue had Miss-fires too, changed Ignition Coil and Module it fixed the Missfire, but after first rain it wont start again. Dist cap gets oxidation every few months, changed Spider 2 years ago, didn't fix the issue. it is on a mechanic now.will see.
I have a 98 Astro and been running and starting up with no problem . I let it sit for 2 weeks and now it wont start.It has a new battery,fuel pump and mass air flow replaced but still nothing..I don't know what it can be..Any suggestions?
I have Astros for 25 years and I have this problem about the last 7 years off and on. When there is fog, rain or super cold this problem comes up. I found if I run heat under the engine the car will start after the engine dries out . I get a A/C DELCO cap and rotor and the problem will go away for 1 or 2 years . I have tried all different brands but A/C DELCO WORKS FOR ME. I will look at the pins on the cap and see if there are alum or brass . great video thanks I subscribed
Awesome! My neighbor's 99 Blazer goes through distributor caps every 18 months like clockwork. I tried all different brands, even ACDelco! Last time it happened I cleaned the pins and sprayed the whole thing with WD-40...no comebacks yet :)
Try an AC Delco OEM coil wire also.
@@jvictor9658use marine grade rotor and cap made for the 4.3 … this on/off hard/ no start issue is all related to oxidation/ light moisture on the cap points. Marine grade cap uses brass points which resist this come moisture issue… new cap and rotors will usually fix these issues for a few months… then it returns… use brass for longer service life of cap.
Hey Ivan thanks for the video. I have a customer with a Chevy S10 who had a similar problem. It was a crank no start scenario. I pulled the cover off of the ignition switch and noticed the sensor for the "key in ignition" was misaligned. I put the key in the ignition and sometimes it would make the switch others times it would not. I was able to get a valid code and such but it did not see the key in the ignition. I was able to repair the switch and get it to start. It was kind of a fluke thing but thus far after a couple of months the vehicle has started without issue. So if that happens again see if the PID for the "key in ignition" is present. Just an FYI. Thanks again for the videos. Keep up the good work.
+Gary Habat Great tip, Gary! The van actually ran fine WITHOUT the key in the ignition at all lol...don't know how to explain that one...
So if the Security light isn't flashing, there's no problem with the system?? That would have been a big time saver haha
motoYam82
my security light is flashing in my 2000 s10extreme...and it cranks but won't start
motoYam82:if the security
light is flashing, the engine won't start. Had a similar issue with a 98 Chev Malibu. Check security system for fault.
I'm having that same problem after someone tried to steel my van from my mom's. They broke my key ignition cylinder and ripped my column housing. I installed a new key cylinder but now it's doing the same things you guys are going through. Great video. Thanks for uploading.
im a mechanic of 40 years, worked on everything under the sun.. i also have a 2003 astro van, which also has a wornout key... my van did the same identical thing, wouldnt start, if you waited for a while, some times up to 24 hours., it will just start right up and run normal..it slowly got worse and started doing this more often until one day it wouldnt start...pulled cap and rotor, at which point i noticed alot of up and down motion in the distributor shaft, i pulled the dist. and found the dist. gear at the end of shaft totally worn to nothing, put a a new dist. in and has been running like a new one since, been 7 months and no problems what so ever......
So you were losing spark then?
I have a 98 Astro and been running and starting up with no problem . I let it sit for 2 weeks and now it wont start.It has a new battery,fuel pump and mass air flow replaced but still nothing..I don't know what it can be..Any suggestions?
was the security light on when it wouldn't start? because I'm have the same problems with my 98 astro. I notice when it won't start the security light stays on. I turn the key wait for the security light to go off then it will start but if it doesn't go off it won't start.
my friend, problems such as this can be frustrating, especially ones that are intermittent. If, I may say just from looking at this video you have an issue with the alarm system but you already know that from the code. First, Look at the time 10:54 t this is the reason why vehicle won't start. With the Key off passlock sensor should read 5v. With the Key in the run position should change from 5v to between 1-3 volts. In your case your passlock sensor is showing 5v in the off and on position when not starting. You notice when it read 1.71v vehicle starts that is because BCM reads the passlock sensor withing specification. Also, if you ever want to know if there is a security issue go under engine data and when vehicle doesn't start look at the VTD Fuel disable pid; when cranknig it should read Inactive. If, it says active the pcm will disable fuel injector driver for the first seconds. I know this vehicle starts now but if it the problems returns, do this. Grab a scope check power, ground, passlock sensor and also scope it at the bcm while cranking. These results will tell you whether is a connector, power, ground, wire, passlock sensor or bcm. Also, this could be due to key lost its programming. I'm thinking you have an issue with the passlock sensor connector because you have turned the key on and off so many times that somehow it started to read the signal correctly. Good luck, brother.
+Techman1076 Thanks man. Yeah a lot of variables here. It did eventually start and run by flooring and pumping the gas, so I have to conclude that at least part of the problem was flooding/bad gas. Will definitely post a follow-up if the problem returns!
If it was the security system then it should have disabled the fuel pump or ignition. I think it was almost empty tank with some water in tank also since it tried to start. I add methyl Hydrate every winter to clear up the tanks condensation on my 1998 GMC Safari and keep tank half full. Fuel pumps don't like near empty tanks in winter if old. Great video. 5 star one.
I forgot to thank you for your efforts on making these videos....they are much appreciated....I do a similar line of work on finding issues...I realize that making videos slows you down. You are very good at what you do. I always give you the thumbs up!
I know this is an old video, but I'll add my $0.02. The problem is with the ignition lock cylinder. On these, the passlock system "resistor" is in the lock cylinder, not the key. The system looks for tampering with the lock cylinder. The problem was shown several times on the scan tool, then the passlock code showed "open" that means that there is no contact with the security resistor in the lock cylinder. The voltage when the circuit is open is 5V, but it drops to a specific learned voltage when the passlock resistor is connected to the circuit. This is similar to the previous gen Passlock system (I think it was called passlock 2, the one with the resistor pellet visible on the key) but the resistor is now in the lock cylinder and not the key. I believe the PCM wants to see the password from the BCM before it starts cranking, which means the BCM needs to see the correct passlock voltage from the lock cylinder before cranking. I've seen several of these, especially on the lock cylinder style that was in the dash and not on the column (like Impalas, Cobalts, Saturn Ions from this era). The Passlock sensor circuit would be open with the key on and sometimes would get contact when you turn the key to crank, but that can be too late.
That being said, it also kinda sounded like the maybe the poppets were sticking in the injectors, since it would hit and miss then pop out the intake. Maybe multiple issues at the same time. It had enough fuel to start, as the customer said. You know that because you showed right at the beginning of the video that it had 60psi of fuel pressure with the pump running.
You may have something there. When the fuel gauge reads 1/2 i consider that empty & i do use Marvel Mystery oil & that seems to keep things tickety boo.
Cold weather brings on strangest things.
Some GM vehicles with the Passlock system had a problem where the grease inside the ignition cylinder would thicken up in cold temperatures and prevent the proper resistance signal from being registered. I believe they released an updated part that fixed that problem.
Your video saved my family's all together butt's.You was working on the same van and the same issues. I'm subscribed now and will be ready for more knowledge to help me and my family with my problems.Hopeful that i need none for the rest of the winter.So thank you and much respect.🤘
To determine if a crank/no start or start/stall condition is being caused by a passlock theft deterrent concern, perform the following steps: Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle, turn ignition to the on position
Select the "POWERTRAIN" option
Select "DATA DISPLAY"
Select engine data and look for the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" parameter
Crank the engine, If the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "ACTIVE", The passlock theft deterrent system is disabling the fuel and you need to follow theft deterrent diagnosis. When the engine is cranked, if the "VTD FUEL DISABLE" indicates "INACTIVE", The no start condition is NOT being caused by a theft deterrent concern and normal no start diagnostic should be followed..
Please follow this diagnostic
+Jeff Armer -> VTD FUEL DISABLE indicates ACTIVE
ua-cam.com/video/RjKblM4VH9E/v-deo.htmlm45s
+danekeeper1 "the detector ring in the ignition lock could be weak/ cold"
This is a typical case in cars Fiat (FIAT CODE/code2/ system Its the same as GM and many other older cars). Bad communication between the coil and the receiver in the key (RFID module) causes the random occurrence of an error without "Code" or "Security" light.
Repair? change coils on new and make a new key (with the appropriate RFID chip)
(not always you need a new key, but for sure in the case of used key is evidently in bad condition).
@@andreasmaltcke117 x
I had this problem on my 97 Astro. Any time it rained or snowed it wouldn't start, so I changed the plug wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, and it still persisted. So one day I took off the cap and I noticed aluminum oxide on the contacts. I cleaned the contacts and it started right up, but it would only last a couple of months before I would have to clean it again. I finally got a dist. cap with brass contacts and it hasn't happened since.
What brand was the one you got, i'm having the same issue and i'm can't afford not having my work van.Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I always look for brass lug caps
Astro Vans don't like cold weathers. mine has gotten to the point where I need to spray fuel injector fluid into the carburetor to get it to start. I think the Astro Vans have an issue with the fuel injectors I'm not experienced just guesses
Thanks buddy I'll try that brass 🤔
deff was moisture issue my 2000 astro awd sat all winter needing a trans and it coughed and sputtered the same till finally got it started and let it run for hrs with the heat on cranking to dry everything out
Class 2 Serial Data Line is basically the "Fuel Enable". Thanks for that piece of info Gentlemen!
The quickest and easiest method to determine if fuel supply is the issue would be using starting fluid. Just spray a bit into the intake tube and give it a moment to evaporate. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds and then dies, you'll know for sure it's the fuel supply. Once that's been eliminated, check for spark. If there is no spark on any plugs, I'd assume something was wrong with the ICM, coil packs or ECU. Go down the line to check in sequence. If all checks out, check the crank position sensor. If you need wiring diagrams let me know.
Like all ECU/PCM/BCM/etc vehicles do...I can't remember how many people bring me a car and say "It does it all the time" and we go for a drive and they say "It's not doing it now"..
I can't get enough of Ivans videos.
The most common issue on any of the VORTEC engines is the ignition cap and rotor going bad. No follow up to this video? When the cap and rotor go bad you’ll see good spark outside the compression chamber, but it will fail under compression. That’s why you get the “almost starts” condition. When I get a call like this (I’m a mobile mechanic), I bring a cap and rotor, especially if they say “it sounds like it wants to start”. The cap needs a seal on it so that moisture doesn’t build up on the inside of the cap. VERY COMMON! Then when you put a new cap and rotor on it will take a few cranks but will eventually start. Then heavy smoke out the tailpipe for unburned fuel. Engine actually gets flooded. Crank the engine with WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to clear built up fuel. On the Astro it’s very easy. On the trucks it takes some effort because the distributor is in the back of the engine. The right tools make a shot ton of difference. Always monitor your fuel pressure and spark.
Thanks for the great video. I love my 98 safari van. Always looking for videos on these vehicles
I had the same problem on safari van. I cleaned up and rewired the ground on fuel pump and it fixed the problem. Everything else was done and didn't help.
You may experience a start/stall condition with a code P1626 or P1631 set in the PCM. An extended crank condition may cause a code P1626 or P1631 to set when there is no related theft deterrent codes.
I hate to say it, but there was no diagnostics nor remedies established.....this is a nightmare job.....BUT, it will be something that we'll learn from......I have to respect Ivan......but I can say they that what will happen is that you will tire from trying to keep abreast of new tech, new parts, new specs and new testing methods....... Make your money now, because it keeps changing....for the reasons I just told you.....I don't do auto mechanic stuff, but thanks to you, I can....electronic wise.....thanks Ivan.
My Chevy 350 doesn't need your computers.....they did/do just fine.
There are no flukes . At 4:50ish you witnessed your actual problem on the scan tool, but unfortunately you were still in the pcm data as opposed to bcm . The vehicle was going into learn mode in and out. This is a typical failure or the pass lock module. Just a heads up. I've hated this passlock system for many years now as there is not a nice enough way to bypass the module after failure
New Level Auto I thinks this is very similar to what you told me yesterday. I saw a PID on his scanner that was a 5V, then dropped to 1.7 or so, which means that the Ignition lock was doing it's job at the time. What's that learn mode about?
2 years ago and I didn't see this comment?!? WTF sorry I missed this Keith!
Thanks for sharing this one Ivan. Looks like you were having fun with the customer alongside. Must have been nice to have a spare, albeit frozen, hand to do some engine cranking for you! lol
*@**20:16* (engine warm or cold) "Flooring it and cranking" *_disables_* the injectors (*clear-flood*).
When I could pull the key out of the ignition barrel in one of my older Holden Commodores, the mechanic failed it on a registration inspection so I had to replace the ignition barrel.
If it gets very cold where you are the ECU & anti theft module may not see enough voltage so that may also cause the hard starting issue.
I noticed recently that my current Commodore which runs the Chevy LS1 engine was harder to start than normal after sitting for a couple of days of not being run,the cranking voltage was down to about 8 volts.
The battery was 3 years old & was a bit old,the battery has lost its "oomph" so I replaced it so I wouldn't end up getting stranded with a dead battery.
Now,the new battery measures at over 10 volts while cranking when the multimeter is set to the MIN setting,it starts much easier after sitting for a couple of days as the battery holds more charge.
I think a couple of cells had shorted plates in them & they were buckled !
Try an AC Delco OEM coil wire. It fixed mine. The aftermarket coil wire was shorting out at the coil. The OEM cable locks on to the coil much better and makes a great seal with the silicone boot around the coil connection.
The most common nonstart issue with these 4.3s is the main plug wire that plugs into the coil, it shorts out, of you wiggle it or zip tie it real tight down, then try to start it, that's the main problem with these chevy vans, blazers.
Well it did need parts in the gas tank. LOL
Buying one today when they open. Hope it doesn't have the disable junk. Cargo model.
Older video I know. If I understand the Passlock system correctly, the module looks for the resistance value of the key switch actually being turned. It has to match what is its learned value. If it does not (for instance if the key cylinder was broken and forced) there is no fuel enable message from the module.
It didn't sound like a typical anti theft problem to me, but there is one thing you can check very quick: do a wigle test on the connector on top of the key cylinder. This connector is known to loose connection. This can also set the anti theft code.
If you cannot recreate the problem with the tank filled, you could have also condensed water on the bottom of the tank. If the tank goes lower, you would have more and more water in the fuel, since the water is havier and stays on the bottom. With a little bit of fuel in the water, it wouldn't freeze and you would have pressure at the fuel rail. But it could be a water/fuel mix and the car doesn't start.
+Muelli1000000 Yeah that was the big variable here. And since I haven't heard back from the owner, that may very well have been the case :)
I had same problem. Grounded coil, changed coil, changed cap and rotor, no luck then I found out about a fuel sensor relay switch under the hood in fuse box. $13.00 and that fixed the problem. Also burned up starter from cranking so much.
Bro..I was just reading through the comments and came across yours. Guess what!! I changed the fuel sensor relay with the ac compressor relay and it turn on.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For writing this comment.
It saved me $235 dollars in towing
I had a 99 Astro with intermittant crank no-start. I would crank and crank and crank, and just as I was about to give up, it would start. It was most common on rainy days. The problem turned out to be a bad distributor ( not cap ). It was worn out and was not giving reliable timings. Cheap plastic! I replaced it with an uprated metal one, and the no-start went away, never to return.
Awesome! Also a good idea to spray the inside of the cap with WD-40 to keep the moisture out :)
I found with my 97 s10 4.3 that when I used even the top of the line cap and rotor from autozone or advanced I had all kinds of starting and running problems, when it rained it wouldn't start at all, so after doing some reading online I ran across a thread where someone had the exact same problem and it was solved by installing a Delco cap and rotor, I was sceptical but I had nothing to lose so advanced had the Delco in stock I bought it, installed it and I never had another problem, that was three years ago, what's the difference between the Delco and the rest I wasted money on, I don't know but it worked, people don't realize that a hairline crack in a cap that you can hardly see will cause all kinds of problems.
79
I had the same problem if it was rainy or damp....it wouldn't start....new plugs wires cap....didn't matter..then an old farmer told me to use a bead of at high heat orange gasket sealer around the lip of the distributor cap and base flange....it never had a problem starting again ....no matter how wet rainy or damp it was out...it was like magic
I have a 2000 Astro Van, and am experiencing the same problem. Using the Innova 3100 obd2, there are no error codes indicated. Fuel pressure good, and I have spark because the vehicle attempted to fire when I gave it a squirt of ether. I don't have the security light, or any other indicators illuminated on the dash.
It seems that I am down to the security system or a mechanical issue. Any thoughts on where to start first? The battery voltage is right up. I am going to pull the coil now to check for a good ground.
I am using my reliable old 1976 beast, but this was the time when I needed the AWD feature because of the ice and snow.
Bob
I have run into those 4.3 and 5.7 motors with that style cap and rotor have this hard start problem very often. Also those spark plug wires look original and most likely the cap is as well. They are junk and they were even coming junk from aftermarket. I don't know how many of these problems starting like this I have fixed with new cap and rotor but I can say its a lot of them.
when a similar thing happened to my 91 vette ..it was the theft deterrent .. I bypassed it with a resistor ( I bought off ebay ,,I am not that handy) ,,a plug and play cord ,,,resistor was based on the chip in my key ,,as he can pull his key out of the ignition I would actually suspect the KEY as the problem NOT the theft system ..
+deepsquat600 Security keys are a lot different today than back then.....isn't technology wonderful when you have to fix it? Everything is fine so long as you have the money$$$$
Greetings from cold Finland and low batteries. Security codes like DTC P1626 can turn on, due modules like BCM shutting down due battery voltage dropping below 9-10V during cranking. The the serial message from BCM to PCM stops, and the code is set.
If PCM has already got the password ok, it will allow the engine to start as it eventually did. Perhaps the challenge to start was some cold related issue? As the engine started, warmed and battery charged a bit and engine was easier to turn over when warm, the code was not set again and you could nor replicate it any more.
When it's -20F problems like these seem to happen more often.
GM: DTC P1626 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Lost
Circuit Description
The Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) system is incorporated within the body control module (BCM). The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system to ensure that the PCM to BCM communications is established.
*** If the PCM detects a loss of the state of health message while the engine is running, DTC P1626 will set.***
***DTC P1626 can cause a no-start condition or normal operation depending on when the loss of Theft Deterrent system communication was detected. The engine will continue to start and run if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred _after_ the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password from the BCM and already allowed fuel during the ignition cycle.
The engine will start and immediately stall if the condition that set DTC P1626 occurred before the PCM received a valid theft deterrent password. With this condition present, the PCM will inhibit fuel delivery and disable the starter until a valid theft deterrent password is detected. Refer to Content Theft Deterrent (CTD) Circuit Description .
Conditions for Running the DTC
The Theft Deterrent system has allowed fuel delivery.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The PCM has detected a loss of the state of health serial data message from the Theft Deterrent system.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM stores conditions which were present when the DTC set as Failure Records only. This information will not be stored as Freeze Frame Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The DTC becomes history when the conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present.
The history DTC clears after 40 malfunction free warm-up cycles.
The PCM receives a clear code command from the scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
For complete serial data line schematics and VTD system diagnosis, refer to Data Link Connector (DLC) Schematics in Data Link Communications and Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Operation in Vehicle Theft Deterrent.
An intermittent may be caused by:
• A poor connection
• Rubbed through wire insulation
• A wire broken inside the insulation
Check for the following conditions:
Important: Several BCM diagnostic procedures call for disconnecting the BCM and then turning the vehicle ignition to the RUN position. These procedures will result in the PCM setting DTC P1626. Therefore, DTC P1626 stored in history may be the result of previous BCM diagnostic work.
• Intermittent short circuit on the serial data circuit -- Refer to Data Link Communications Operation in Data Link Communications. Be sure to check all related wiring for an intermittent short to ground or short to voltage.
• Poor connection -- Inspect the PCM and BCM harness and connectors for:
- Improper mating
- Broken locks
- Improperly formed or damaged terminals
- Poor terminal to wire connection
• Damaged harness -- Inspect the wiring harness for damage. Check for an intermittent short or open circuit in the wiring harnesses related to the BCM, including the ignition, battery feed, ground, and Serial Data circuits.
Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
If the DTC cannot be duplicated and is determined to be intermittent, reviewing the Failure Records can be useful in determining when the DTC was last set. Also refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
At 5:00 you cranked the car while connected to ECU and and also that shut down due low battery voltage (lost communication).
Im having the same code om ny 2003 gm truck.... Rebuilt the engine. Put everything back together and now this doggone code. No security light ( well intermittent but not constant ). Got spark but only tested one coil but that was enough for me, shocked the crap out of me. Fuel pump engages and fuel gets through the line but haven't checked for fuel pressure. Checked all fuses and pins but didn't check all connectors. Checked all grounds, ignition, ignition switch even the sensor on the lock cylinder. I even tried pulling the key out like you did.
I've watched this video twice. Gotta watch again in case I'm missing something. Don't have the maz scanner just the OBD2 1350.
And my check engine light stays on in the on position.
The gas gauge says E
My 2001 GMC Savana once in awhile will not start and sounds just like this Astro. First time was in very cold weather when it sat a few days. Cranks but no turn over. Next time I think the weather was fine but it just sat maybe 2 days. Another time after a good storm. And once it started right up, moved it, turned it off, hooked up trailer, then it wouldn't start. After each instance the battery gets worn down, the cables come out, and I eventually get it started after an hour or so. Security light is usually normal, but I did notice after finally starting it after a no-start situation it will stay on until I shut it off and restart. Otherwise runs fine with no other issues. Fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, cap replaced 2 years ago. I was thinking it has something to do with the passlock but it seems passlock allows a start but immediately disables the fuel, so I'm still baffled.
Why did you not try the starter spray test and see if it would run...if so you can determine the problem easier?
I love how thorough you are. Great work!
My roommates astro does the same thing, if it sets for two days it will not start. if you crank it for about a minute pumping the throttle it will fire up. i think it is either the ignition switch or the spider injectors leaking
he had vienerrshnitzel sauce on der keyfob, blocking ze tranzpspanzer signal. lol
I'd say the darned thing needs at least 1/2 tank of gas at all times, and spare keys in good condition.
You mentioned that you were able to remove the key in the on position. Maybe the lock is the real problem. Try this again and see whether you can reproduce the no crank situation.
once again thanks for all your help
Ivan I never had a good scan tool for security codes but I did look at two with identical symptoms. If Markus plugs the block heater in when it gets cold it will start every time. Two things I found was temp switch out of range but no code and weak fuel pump pressure not able to flow enough on cold start. If plugging the block heater in next time fixes it , well we found the problem, if not I'm out to lunch on this one. LOL Hope this helps.
+Steve Rob Hey Steve! Lots of variables here, plus the cold conditions and low fuel in the tank. Heck maybe he filled up down south with "summer blend" and then the fuel wasn't volatile enough up North? Should have tried some starting fluid :)
The block heater warms well the block. won't help a cold fuel pump.
the weather was the problem combined with not enuf fuel to keep lots of condensation from forming on inside walls of tank. does he ever use any dry gas?
+david goliath I should have sprayed some starting fluid in the intake to get er' going! I'm surprised the battery cranked the engine for as long as it did...
working on an 03 silverado. getting the same code but the vtd data shows that it's disabled with the key on and cranking. smells like fuel in the exhaust and won't crank on starting fluid. it will run fine, wait 2 days and then it won't start. the key comes out in run position also. I found that the resistance on the grounds to the bcm and vtd 3 wire plug on the ignition lock have a whopping 75 to 100 ohms. I tested another 03 silverado and all the grounds have no resistance. I've wiggled wires, checked grounds under cab,battery,engine and body. where is the bcm ground location under the dash?
I'm thinking its related to that worn out ignition key. Great video though
I Drilled the distributor vents bigger and run premium gas in the winter, now it starts better
spark is consistent, fuel pump pressure is 56 psi ,I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter ,crank sensor, rotor cap and rotor, sparkletts plugs , sparkletts plugs wires and still driving me nuts
Has it warmed up at all in the weeks since? Like an almost flat battery does a low temp mean the chip in the key and receiver in the steering column not work, warm them up a bit and they work again for a while. Just a stab in the dark really.
How many miles does this Astro have? It sounds horrible.
That's it for now! You mean that's it until the next time it rains, or is too humid and wet. I've got the same issue with my GMC Safari minivan. If it does start, when it does start, you can't always count on it bringing you back home. Unless it's already still warmed up. Or there's enough heat coming off the engine to keep the ignition wires dry. I'm guessing? I've got the same exact issue. Very frustrating.
First cold snap- astrovan had no problem w start... but started and stalled... I pressed the gas to keep it going..flooded it and it won't start up now. engine light is on... Any thoughts... Ugg.
I’m having this same problem on a 2003 GMC LB7 duramax... P1626 starts and dies all day long, fuel disable keeps activating...
Ignition switch power mode mismatch ? Since the operation of the vehicle systems depends on the power mode, there is a fail-safe plan in place should the BCM fail to send a power mode message. The fail-safe plan covers modules with discrete ignition signal inputs as well as those modules using exclusively serial data control of power mode. GM has had ignition switch problems , just ask Eric O.
p1626 means the pass lock code from the switch is going to the bcm but not going to pcm , that means the switch is good (code 3 on data list) the problem was never really present during the diag but being intermittent i would look at the connectors on bcm and pcm
come fix my 99 astro van it wouldn't start here in florida ran fine in the morning wouldn't start now just turns over and over
Pull the battery cables resetting for couple minutes will start right up
I’m having the same no start problem on my 2000 blazer. Any help would be appreciated. $$$$ on a bunch of parts and I’m at my wits end.
My 4.3 was doing the same thing you have to keep trying start it until it catches with your foot on the accelerator
The 4.3 liters I know usually don't like low voltage. I own a gmc safari and it acts like that when battery voltage is low.
The main no start issue with these 4.3s is the main plug wire that plugs into the coil, ( not the coil wire). This plug shorts out and cuases a no start or stalls when driving, many people dont know about this issue and this is why alot of these gm's are in the scrap yard. I used a zip.tie to tie it dwon so it won't wiggle ,or replace the plug terminal, theres also a healight relay in the dash that runs on tbe same wiring circuit causes issues with the oil pressure sending unit and fuel pump circ, if that relay burns, you wont see it. Unless you know from someone else giving advice about these gm's.
ignition switch has the pass lock resistor and may be faulty
Hope you see this message. I need help. I have the 2001 astro starcraft. The security light is on all the time. Not flashing, just on and the van won't start. Nomater how many times we try a relearn it never goes off and van won't start. I've replaced every part related to the VAT system. Ignition etc. Still won't start. We have spark we have fuel and fuel pressure. Any help would be appreciated and the only code is the p1626. I'm based in the UK so very limited knowledge here. Never had a job like this before and admittedly it's winning and I'm losing. Hate to give up..
Why was the covers for the steering column/ignition switch removed? Looks like they were that way when you got there. I was half expecting that to be related.
+dbishop38 A few years ago he replaced the turn signal stalk for a non-operational cruise control. Guess it was too much of a pain to put the covers back on since you have to pull the steering wheel...
BTW I fixed the cruise control when he brought the van to my shop for the first time, after the new stalk didn't fix the problem. The cruise cable had popped off the throttle plate linkage :)
Hi - I am currently dealing with my 2001 GMC Safari - NEW battery, good fuel, but cranking power come morning is just low enough to NOT start it - I need to boost it with a charger in this cold weather. Once I have the charger on it, it starts right up. When running, the alternator is charging it at above 15 - by the dashboard needle gauge and also by the handy dandy volt meter. I plug it in at night - that does NOT help. If I did not use the charger, then my battery would run down and die before the engine started running.
The ignition key is weird - it does pull out when it shouldn't.
No codes - no CHECK ENGINE light. Nothing draining the power that I can find - no radio, no interior lights...
Ideas?
hey i have a 2001 chevy truck 4.3 it had fuel and spark no start thought it turns over fine doing the same thing that van is doing did u find the probelum
no but staring is intermittent and sometimes check engine came up .I did connect the obd2 and trow code p1626 and 1192
Any chance it's a failing ignition switch?
Was old crank position sensor changed?
Did you ever check if injectors were loosing signal when code present? I know you checked spark, It looks like someon has been working on the ignition switch.
+John Fountaine Injector pulse test would have been my next step if the dang thing didn't decide to finally fire up...wish I would have done that.
I should add, that after reading some of the other comments, the tank is full of fresh gas, I have tried both keys, and the van has never given an indication of any problem previous to this event.
Bob
Listening to the engine , I have to say it sounds as if it was just flooded ! If you would had held the pedal down an cranked it a while it would have started.. They probably started it and then shut it off to fast and left it parked , flooding it ...I had the same issue with my Nissan and it has nothing to do with the security.. They might had came on because of the attempts in starting it.. They must have really flooded it.. Also does the key have a chip in it ? That's another possibility ...
What model scanner is that
I believe i'd have sent him to the dealership for a new key. I ran into this with my wife's suburban also
needs a pass lock sensor and new keys from my experience
I had the same experience thats my solution too
@@slfox804 i was having this issue too, broke out my spare key as my main one was getting a bit smooth, seems that an overly worn key can cause this issue.
Doing that rn
So just get a new key made?
seems like the change came after
you pulled the key in the "ON" position.
cold + old + low battery = erratic Radio Frequency operation (the key sensor + key) - probably the injector pulse would have been the best way to "see" this in "real-time" while cranking... appears the computer doesn't engage the VTD system unless the ignition is turned "without the correct/any key detected"... maybe if the key is loose, and comes out while running try pulling the key out of the barrel while cranking (if that's even practical)
I had the same issue and what worked for me was to move around the wires right above the inintion (secuity password) move them anound or unplug them and put them back then truck would start.
Nearly empty fuel tank, hygroscopic ethanol, condensation in the pump sock, nearly dead battery- trying to communicate, operate dead short relays, electric motors (starter, fuel pump), single-digit temperature molasses oil...
LoL you forgot that may by beter to buy a new van :))
Adam Budai At least Ivan was able to do his magic "indoors".
So what was the diagnosis? No gas? Looks like key was pretty worn out to be able to slide out of the ignition cylinder in run position. Time to give dealer VIN and buy a couple new keys.
+buzzerauto Believe it or not the Chevy dealer was only a block away from that dude's house :)
All GM antitheft works by taking out injector pulse. Did you have injector pulse when it did not start?
+juergen scholl If what you say is true, it tends to explain the engine's attempt to fire at certain times.....correct?
+juergen scholl I suspect that the anti-theft programming kicks in AFTER the fuel pump prime cycle......Hence, you get that weird "almost firing" sound out of the engine... I need to be corrected if I'm wrong....
+juergen scholl Did not check injector pulse during cranking. Considering it finally started, I'm assuming it was there all along. That would have been the right test to do if it didn't fire up...
+juergen scholl *_My_* '89 Buick anti theft module works by disabling the fuel pump, and interrupting the Data Link.
hello brother any chance you diagnostic the astro van 2000 above gauges not working along with the wiper and a/c at the same time . thanks a lot
Check powers and grounds ;)
My son has a 2006 Impala 3.9. All fuses and relays are good. He had a new fuel pump put in. When he tries to start the car, it only cranks but, when he sprays starter fluid in the vent tube it runs and will not stop running until he shuts it off!? He can drive as much as he wants and the engine will not shut off until he shuts it off.
If the fuel pump is new and running, why does the engine stay running after spraying with starter fluid? I was told, when you spray starter fluid and the engines runs, you have a bad fuel pump if it shuts off after a few seconds.I am confused!
GOD bless and thanks for any possible solution
Nothing wrong with the fuel pump. Check for codes and look at live data. Might be something as silly as a bad coolant temp sensor causing a wrong fuel mixture on a cold start. Good luck!
This is a weird one for sure......Is that ignition key the type with the internal transponder? I believe that it is......Just throwing this out there....I got to thinking...You were having repeated security issues initially....then, that issue went away....so.....very cold day, a very cold key....but you were pawing that key a lot, increasing its temperature.....could this be a temperature issue with the key transponder ? Just throwing that out there because nothing else seems obvious....
+Clete88 In this case it was a "dumb" key with no chip. All the anti-theft stuff lives in the lock cylinder...
You know if you have a Ford tow truck you can get the astro van any place you want to go
My 2003 express is doing the same thing as this video, except it still won't start. I checked for fuel pressure (60+), checked for spark (plenty), and replaced the spark plugs and wires. I have two keys, both will not start the car. Tried turning into on position, shutting off, tried starting, shutting off, on position, back and forth back and forth...no change. Seems like I can rule out fuel related issues since it's getting enough pressure. I am getting the P1626 code, but no security light ever on the dash. Any ideas?
Should probably add, I was having this problem about a month and a half ago after it sat for 2-3 weeks. I continuously kept trying to start it, and eventually started up. Replaced the battery just in case. Ran fine and started every day for 2 weeks, then I didn't use it for about 4 days and couldn't get it to start up again.
Did you figure it out?
Hey motoyam82, I saw your video for that tucson, well I have an 01 Santa Fe with the 2.7 V6. It recently threw the code of death of PO173, and also now its throwing the code PO171, so both banks are running lean, but I do not hear any valve tapping or ticking, only the injector noise. The stuff I have done are change the plugs and wires but at 2 different times, so I have had the Intake Manifold off twice. I have also broken the OEM pcv hose. I have temporarily replaced that hose with a bigger hose. Would this possibly be sucking in more air if not 100% sealed?, let me know your take on this.
To determine the correct power mode the BCM uses: • The state of these signals/circuits, either switch closed (B+ = 1) or switch open (open = 0) • The status of the engine run flag. The chart indicates the modes detected and transmitted by the BCM:
Same Issue had Miss-fires too, changed Ignition Coil and Module it fixed the Missfire, but after first rain it wont start again.
Dist cap gets oxidation every few months, changed Spider 2 years ago, didn't fix the issue.
it is on a mechanic now.will see.
Did you get this issue fixed? If so what did they do
Can you use a straight metal key?
So,@14:30 you wasted 20 minutes on the tester, to find it was just low on gas... 🤔
What model maxiDAS do you have????
I have a 98 Astro and been running and starting up with no problem . I let it sit for 2 weeks and now it wont start.It has a new battery,fuel pump and mass air flow replaced but still nothing..I don't know what it can be..Any suggestions?
Distributor rotor and cap. Sorry you wasted money on the fuel pump and MAF!
I have an 01 astro awd that security light comes on and flashes and vehicle will not start sometimes 24 hrs or less time till it will run again.
Is that maxiDas DS708?
Great video as usual, thanks Ivan!