We've got the same issue going on, on a 2004 Silverado 2500 HD except for [if I'm testing right, I've got basic tools] sitting at 2.11v from the passlock signal and ground. Would that same resistor you linked work? Edit: ended up being the BCM
The only time the GM anti-theft system prevented someone from starting the vehicle, was when the owner needed to start it. Dealt with this problem monthly on my 2002 Chevy Blazer. It would routinely take 6-10 minutes for the system to re-learn the key. Needless to say, I got real good at doing this.
Dealt with this in auto tech class. Needless to say I knew just what to do for this, but I didn't know of the physical bypass like Eric O. is doing here.. Needless to say I made $10 off that particular student that day 😂
I had this problem with my 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT. Fortunately, the only time it ever really "quit" on me is when it was near home. Like, I mean, right in front of the house if I went out to do groceries, then come home, unload, then want to take off again. It was absolutely a PITA when it happened. I didn't do anything about it as after about a year or two, she succumbed to rust problems and I bought my 2011 Chev Impala, which has NOT given me any kind of security issues yet. I still own it, she still runs fine. She's been side-stepped with a 2017 Chev Malibu Hybrid, but the Impala still goes out weekly for random trips. It's become a weekend boat.
Just a little tip. After you adjust the potentiometer take a dab of nail polish and put it on the screw and body of the potentiometer. It keeps it from moving with vibration and inadvertent knocks. Plus if it does get moved it's easy to tell. A little something memaw taught me!
I'm an electrician, not a car mechanic, but after you showed us how this (did not) work several years back, I did several for both our own shop GM vans/trucks and friends' vehicles. How GM always finds the worst possible 'theft prevention' system out of all the potential solutions is truly awe-inspiring. Thank your for the great video this morning!
ave. elechiken.. duclaw... yup, this is why i wont buy a new vehicle..1 thing shts,,it could be 1 of 10. unrelated problems.. blame the greenies & epa.. 1 exploding volcano, puts out more crap than we do in a thousand yrs.. funny,, there banning cows cos they fart.. do humans fart.?. lets ban humans.. cows have a secret fire,, they pick up burning stiks, & chase each other around when they want to fart..
I think dodge has gm beat. When a dodge gets to rusty it won't start. Or like in my case my dodge dakota won't charge at 14v all from a rotten positive cable that is shorted internally.
I bought a 6.0 Silverado used for a winter vehicle a few years back,drove it home perfectly fine parked it changed all of the brakes and lines, and it never started again I spent hours upon hours researching looking for this fix and never found a good one I could follow to get the truck to start, and here you come years later and resolve it in 10 minutes. I love and hate this video all at the same time!
@@phillipschutter24 You mean like the daily questions on FB car forums...my car died on me today and won't restart any guesses...LOL my god people. Then they get cranky when a guy tells em to take it to a shop
$0.75 cents in parts, 1/2 hrs labor so it works. or $$$ parts, and 2 hrs labor and it will fail again sometime in the future. hmmm, what to do what to do......
My Son and I were talking about my Father who was a mechanic specializing in front end alighment. He retired when the cars started to have electronics. When I was 15 they got in a 1954 Chev panel truck with a tired engine, He sat down on a bucket and had me do the overhaul. When my son reached 16 I found a 1985 Chev S-10 that had been run without oil. My turn to sit on the bucket and have him do the overhaul. It ran another 110,000 miles. I noticed you did the same thing with both girls, but no bucket. Good job !!
I spent years trying to fix this problem on my 98' k1500 after some idiot f'ed up an aftermarket security/remote start install. After buying a whole set of factory service manuals and getting stranded several times on job sites I finaly found that stupid aftermarket resistor under the steering column. God how I wish i knew about your channel and youtube in 2003. Love you man...keep it coming.
From your previous bypass video I was able to get my mom's 2002 Impala to start correctly using two 2200 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in parallel...a big "Thank You" from me & her :)
The Automotive Wizard strikes again!!! You can teach or write a book when you retire & you will make a lot of us very happy. Keep up the excellent work.
I've been using a 2.2k ohm resister soldered at the BCM connector. This eliminates any wire/connector issues to the column. Did the first one about 18 yrs ago and over 100 done, and never had any come back.
Thanks Eric - This video was a great help! Thought about spending the $80 on a new lock/sensor assembly and the all-day time and lack of tools that I really don't have before finding your bypass video. I have a 2004 Avalanche and the wiring configuration appears a bit different but I figured it out. My voltages were 5.0 and 1.7 across the leads with switch off/on respectively. I used some basic math with your values and set my resistor to 1,236 ohms. Tested the connection and had 1.65V across the leads so I tweaked the resistance until I had 1.7V again. Worked perfect - thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Good morning Eric, I hope you are doing well! I followed your bypass video and all seemed to go well. However, the security "feature" still persists. About an hour into driving the truck, the failure occurs. It usually starts with a radio malfunction and it dies. Then the Christmas tree of dashboard lights and gauges going offline begins. With the bypass resistor, I did notice the display cycles from Driver1/UNKNOWN DRIVER - slight difference from original problem. I'm able to clear things with a battery disconnect/reconnect with an hour delay however, the failure occurs as described above. Is it possible that the BCM is the issue? I really appreciate all that you do! Thanks again, Aaron
I'm glad to say thanks to SMA I have easily started more than a dozen early 2000 model Chevy trucks and drove them directly to their 'new owners'. It's amazing how many of these trucks can be found right in your local Walmart parking lot.
Found your channel a while ago Great Job 68 years old been pulling wenches most of my working life, just changed a steering column in a 98 c3500 thanks for the help it's refreshing to follow someone with the same mind set, remember if you make it look easy it makes them all wonder
Ive done it with blazers and s10s, no need to find the resistance etc, I simply cut the wires and connect them to themselves. Leave the key on for 45 minutes with the charger hooked up to follow the relearn procedure and you now have a 0 ohm key! Ive done this 6 or so times over the years
Would that work on 2002 s10. My security light is on, when key not in and when it on ACC but when I turn key all the way , then the light isn't on , I tried splicing the 2 wires together and doing the 30 min reset procedure and it didn't work
Don't know how often you do this type of work Mr. O but I got one would like to see more. As our vehicles get older, these immobilizer systems start to fail, leaving us stranded with many hundreds of dollars to be spent between towing, parts, and locksmithing.
That is true, but remember, not everyone used an immobilizer until at least 2004. I drive a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 wagon and it has no chipped keys so it does not have the immobilizer, but the 04, first year Mazda 3 does, as did many manufacturers by then. GM, and Ford did did this security thing on some models as far back as 1988 on the Corvette and Ford by the mid 90's when they went with a new key system on cars like the Contour. Some Chryslers may have had it before 2004-05 as my mother's Dodge Stratus (I think an 04 or 05) did not have it. Later models did however.
@snoopdogie187 oh Don't I know it. Had a Chrysler laid up for a week until the ECU was reflashed. Really no other way around it except having a mobile locksmith come or tow to a dealership which was big money
@@johnhpalmer6098 Late as '03, Dodge trucks didn't have chipped keys/fobs (or, they'd have one plus a plain steel one). My security system is a 1997 pickup with 239K. Prior to that, you had to know which way to put a Dodge key into the ignition, back to at least the '65 Dart I had.
I had this very problem, years ago, with my 2000 Savana. I was able to get GM to pay for it ( $700). They had issued a repair bulletin about it and knew it was a problem. They didn't volunteer it, but I got it. Also I am indifferent to electrical crimps.They work, I use them. Mainly because I'm terrible at soldering wires.
Eric I have used shrink butt connectors for years and no problems.. When used on interior stuff I just crimp and shrink.. But on outter stuffs I use heat shrink over the butt connectors for extra protection.😉.. Great video Brother.. 🖒🖒
hey, Mr. O. I love it when you outsmart the control freaks. They say it makes everybody safer or something. Crooks always know how to steal whatever they want to steal. All this fancy electronic stuff is just false security. Every time somebody uses a wireless unlock they send out a signal for any crook to grab out of the air. A good detective also knows how to bypass locks and other security devices. I was a locksmith back in the day. Most security is an illusion. Real security is usually expensive and wears sunglasses. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
Passlock was a terrible design even when it worked properly. Thanks for another great video! (Mrs Tizzo is playing all of your videos in slow motion to see if you got the magnet and put it on the fridge. Lol)
I use heat shrink butt connectors every day- we build million dollar fire trucks , and that's what connects the miles of wire in them! Great video_ I should have done that years ago on the Buick Rendezvous.......water under the bridge.
Aligned probably a thousand transceivers by now. Know how many move after adjustment? None. Aviation, ground vehicles, rack radios. Nothing moves. I'll put high temp tamper wax... just to keep people honest.
@@ShainAndrews You must have better quality components and vehicles than I do! Have not done thousands, and have had more than one of those variable resistors change over time. Especially on high frequency motor controllers. Hit the right speed, they walk right out.
Thanks for posting this. Too late for me. I had a 98 Bonneville that I junked due to this issue. No start security light flashing and it locked the trans and key in the column. I feel dumb now for scrapping it.
Did this on my 1994 Bonneville. Just read the resistance off the key, did the math, and grabbed a couple of resistors from Radio Shack. No re-learn necessary. That variable resistor is handy, now that there isn't a Radio Shack on every corner.
Thanks MR O. I have a little tip for you on the crimps. I wrench on heavy trucks and trailers a ton and use them often. In a tight space always put the crimpers on the crimp first and then feed your wire with your other hand so you already have set up. Much easier
The cutting the wire brings me back to my military days . I sucked at math which by the way is VERY important when rigging charges of C4 . We all set our charges in the blow burms and we’re walking back as a group when my charge went off covering us with dirt and small rocks . I got better at math fast after that beat down
This math has its limits when the ground is jungle saturated. Had the demonstrators for blowing a mortar pit with C4 use the book to calculate the amount needed to get the proper depth for one with insurance to go deeper. Nope, the hole was deep enough to get the minimum distance. (Jungle Operations Training Center in January of 1989.)
Did this on my '96 Olds 88, years ago but I measured the resistance in my key and bought resistors from radio shack, found the wires in line and soldered the resistor in...worked like a charm
Thanks eric! Im about to do this very thing. Booked him in today. So a quick refresher is all i needed. Love the crimp and seal, as long as a feller dont puncture the seal when crimping.
Good engineering there. Whenever I used a variable device like your resistor, when I got it set I would put a dab of fingernail polish on the screw and housing to hold it in place. If you ever need to adjust it again the nail polish breaks free easily.
Thank you for another great video brother. I am by no means a mechanic but due to not being able to afford to pay a mechanic I have to do it all myself. I have a 2005 Silverado 2500hd with a 6.0 and your videos have helped me on every single repair I've done. Just wanted to thank you brother keep the videos coming
I had a 1987 corvette and I remember cutting a wire under the dash and putting in a resistor that matched the chip on the key. I had no problem after that.
Had theftlock activate when I changed the radio in or eldorado, my local auto tech did what your doing here, fixed the problem, except for when the car was warmed up it randomly would not not start, I would typically wait ten to thirty minutes and then it would start and drive, Like your vids, longtime viewers, don't always leave a comment but do always watch and like, Have a Great Weekend Pal
Not the crimp and seal connectors again! I can’t believe you keep using those despite what all of us experts tell you. 😂. Keep doing you, Eric. Great job as always
Love your videos. I've been struggling with the infamous "no-crank/no-start" problem on a 2001 Monte Carlo. Just when I think it's gone, it returns. The car was subject to the GM ignition switch recall a few years back and had the repair. When I pulled the ignition switch, the PASSLOCK sensor had been secured by a cable tie which had slipped, so I replaced it and added some electrical tape for good measure. Worked fine for several months, then out of the blue, the problem was back. I read somewhere that a weak battery can cause it too and since it tested as bad, I replaced it and the problem went away again for a couple of weeks, but suddenly returned. Just replaced the ignition switch housing with a Dorman from Amazon that was only $40. Found that the PASSLOCK connector seemed loose in the new one also, so I did the cable tie thing again. Car is cranking every time now, knock on wood. The sensor just clips into the ignition housing though, so I'm not sure how replacing the housing helps and I won't be surprised if it doesn't. I reused the old lock cylinder and existing keys. If it happens again, I'm going for your bypass solution.
love the simple solution. placing a little spot of paint or some of Mrs O's nail polish on the variable resistor adjuster will make sure the voltage never changes
Back in the early 90's I did so many of that bypass that I was having dreams about it. I worked for the city and one key fix the whole fleet of the police car and such. We had to do a lot of rekeying on the door's trunk lids and all.
I figured that if you were presenting this method on the video it must have worked, but part of me was hoping something would go wrong, so I could say "Resistance is Futile!"
I ordered a 10 pack of the Variable resistors (5k) to make my own ($8.00), What a great bypass and video. Question: What if you cut wires and attached resistor and had someone crank while you adjusted setting (until it starts) --- would be a little more "mission impossible" lol. This old mechanic loves your videos. Thank you very much for your time.
@@andrewcampbell7280 I did get the 10 pack (they took forever to arrive) but after replacing the Ignition harness on my 1998 Yukon, I tried the key and it started! Not sure why because I didn't do the 10/10/10 procedure for relearn. Guess I just got lucky and the resistor in the new harness was the same.
I love you tube. The TV is on but I watch you tube . I did the resistor bypass a few years ago on my wife's 2001 Pontiac Grand Am after too many 10 min. relearns. My wife has passed but the Grand Am is still going strong. I love the both of them and your Channel.
Done this a million times, ironically, but I've never seen passlock deter a decent thief. I actually special-ordered my truck directly from general motors with the passlock delete option.
I love seeing the truly amazing durability of automobiles. Every car ever made WILL finally age to a point where it can NOT be fixed. GM engineers designed this GMC to last 5 years without a major repair. They did that so that the car would be affordable. Yet here it is running at 21-years-old. That "key recognition system" is an electronic device and yet it lasted 21 years. Do you have a cell phone that old? A TV that old? A computer that old? Right. I repeat, this is amazing.
@@LadyAnuB Visited my childhood home in 2018, after 60 years, the wall-mounted, rotary phone was still working. But... that is my point. To buy a new-technology phone that durable today, you would have to spend thousands of dollars. To buy a car that durable is certainly possible, but it would cost several million dollars. That rotary phone was owned by the phone company, and they sent a repairman to the house to fix it at no cost to the homeowner. AT&T did not want them to need repair.
I have a 2001 impala with the 3400. I had the same problem. Was also having issues with the a/c not working. It was an issue with the bcm having bad soldering. Replaced bcm, (had to get programmed at dealer) and all those problems were solved.
For cutting tape and whatnot on harnesses, a seam ripper for sewing is a godsend. Just be sure to tilt it away from the wires after you get under the tape so you don't stab or gash a wire.
I would imagine that the majority of people understand the purpose of UA-cam incentive to encourage people to post comments is, so that it's A.I can read it, learn about the user, and also learn how to mimic personality. With that said, double plus good job as always Mr. O. Miss my 95' Sierra. She was pretty.
“ Gotta be careful fella *slams gear shift into park*” 😂 Can’t tell ya how many times I have done that and the shift link cable broke the stud clean off the trans. Now I move it carefully and slowly 1 gear at a time and pray!
We had a similar situation with an early 90's Caprice. Key had a resistor built inside. Read with multimeter and replaced with a similar resistor under the steering column. Works every time. Thanks!
The quick way is take the key if it has the black pill in the middle of key and read resistance across either side of the metal contacts. Did that on a 1992 Buick Park Avenue. Had the same issue. Did help that I worked at an electronics based facility.
I remember having to do this in the early 2000's when we were installing remote start. Nowadays bypass modules are necessary on almost every vehicle but it makes installing a remote start alarm so much easier. Instead of having to connect to 20 or 30 wires now it's just a handful. Never tried the adjustable pot resistor, always had to meter it and rig up resistors within +/-10% of the value.
Had this issue on a customers 94 Grand Am. The pass lock circuit went from the ignition through the cluster, and into the ignition control module. The cluster circuit board would overheat when the instrument panel backlights were on (headlights were on), cutting out the signal wire. Rebuilt the IPC and problem solved. Had to solder in a resistor onto the IPC to keep it from shorting out again. While I was in there, I replaced all the stepper motors for the gauges.
Love the crimp and seal connectors. Been working at a GM dealership for 30 years and haven’t had problems with them. The only problem is when the parts department buys cheap ones. It happened today installing a trailer brake controller, crimped the connector and the wire pulled out when I was testing it. SMH
Seeing those internal capacitors going across the terminals on the module explains the reason these fail... caps will leak , short or open after so many years
Thank you for this. Have been trying to bypass my security for about 2 months now. Thanks to this my truck is operational again, added aftermarket security and autostart while I was in there. Appreciate all the detail 💪😎
I was a technician back in the 70s80s . I wake up most days thinking there’s not much I can’t fix and I know a lot of chit . Then I watch Eric and realize I don’t no chit always learning something. Lol remember folks if he can do no you probably can’t unless you got 35 years of experience like Eric 😂😂
You got my respect for taking 20+ yrs old vehicles and dealing with rusted out frames, bodies & worst of all, the dreaded electrical connectors & greenies in the harnesses, I work on 10yr old and younger, and find the same crazies.
I’m a big fan of adhesive lined electrical crimps. The first thing I did 20 years ago after taking delivery of a new 23 foot center console boat was to rip out all the factory wiring and replace it with tin coated marine grade wire and crimps. After pounding like a bobber in LI Sound and Montauk Point for 2,000+ hours, I have not had a single electrical problem. My friends who solder connections can’t say the same. Crimps done right are better under vibrating conditions.
Holy shit dude. Pro Mechanics Like Mr. O here are fkn geniuses. seriously... I wish I were this smart. I have this same problem with my ABS and BRAKE lights and they drive me insane but I just don't have the balls and in particular, the knowledge and experience to figure things out like this. I wish I was just half as smart as this fellow here.
Thanks for this video Eric! My buddy has this problem with his 97 Grand Am. So just to be sure I've got this clear. The passkey sensor on these are dying, and normally the passkey reads the resistance of the inserted (and learned key), so the bypass is to simply put a resistor across the wires to simulate a key, then learn that resistance value once, and since it'll never fluctuate, it'll always start with any key that is cut for the ignition?
@@pacificparts why would you steal a gm in the first place.. ever watched ausie bathurst..all the holdens run ford parts..or they,d never win or finish..fact.. toranas, have rear drop tanks,,so you cant see the 9''diff. plus they run v8 brakes on the 6 cyls.. bartletts camaro,wanted to run disc, as they do in u.s. but wasnt allowed..he rolled it.. ford sierras, johnson, 4 laps ahead, banned,, 1989.. all european cars, merc, niss, toyo, ect, at bathurst, now,, had to de tune there engines,, to race specs.. this is why we call it a taxi race, all the fkn same.. when mustangs were first,few yrs back, raced, they won every race, so they got,''modified'', to comply..
Thanks for the go by to fix. I did not use the variable resistor, but i did use a 2.2K and the old 2000 Suburban fired right back up. I also had an alarm system on this truck that the pass was wired into. It did not affect anything so all is good.
Sorry totally forgot the link for you guys. Here ya go!
*5k Variable Resistors, 5 Pack:* amzn.to/3WgCY9s
Hey Mr. O, that knife looks pretty slick. Can you tell us where you got it from?
Looks like someone bought all of resistors from the link. Lol. "Currently unavailable" is what it says.
Is it the same for a 98 my light is on as well
We've got the same issue going on, on a 2004 Silverado 2500 HD except for [if I'm testing right, I've got basic tools] sitting at 2.11v from the passlock signal and ground. Would that same resistor you linked work?
Edit: ended up being the BCM
Bought a set trash bought a second set so far into the 3rd of the new pack also trash.
The only time the GM anti-theft system prevented someone from starting the vehicle, was when the owner needed to start it. Dealt with this problem monthly on my 2002 Chevy Blazer. It would routinely take 6-10 minutes for the system to re-learn the key. Needless to say, I got real good at doing this.
Multiple 300,000 GM and have never had an issue...
Dealt with this in auto tech class. Needless to say I knew just what to do for this, but I didn't know of the physical bypass like Eric O. is doing here..
Needless to say I made $10 off that particular student that day 😂
An anti theft device that lasted 20 years is pretty freaking good
Another great well executed bypass
I had this problem with my 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT. Fortunately, the only time it ever really "quit" on me is when it was near home. Like, I mean, right in front of the house if I went out to do groceries, then come home, unload, then want to take off again. It was absolutely a PITA when it happened. I didn't do anything about it as after about a year or two, she succumbed to rust problems and I bought my 2011 Chev Impala, which has NOT given me any kind of security issues yet. I still own it, she still runs fine. She's been side-stepped with a 2017 Chev Malibu Hybrid, but the Impala still goes out weekly for random trips. It's become a weekend boat.
Just a little tip. After you adjust the potentiometer take a dab of nail polish and put it on the screw and body of the potentiometer. It keeps it from moving with vibration and inadvertent knocks. Plus if it does get moved it's easy to tell. A little something memaw taught me!
What color for Fall?
Electronic tech for years, thanks for your explanation, saved me the hassle and my Memaw didn't know jack shlt !!!
And I'd put a little tag in there with "security bypassed with 1.3kOhm resistor" or something like that.
@@lexteakmialoki5544 same here Instrumentation Mechanic/Electrician in a chemical plant for 36 years. I've learned a trick or two.
lock tight would be more likely in Mr O's toolbox!
When your hands were shaking over which wire to cut, I was scared. Didn't want my favorite UA-camr to explode.
I'm an electrician, not a car mechanic, but after you showed us how this (did not) work several years back, I did several for both our own shop GM vans/trucks and friends' vehicles.
How GM always finds the worst possible 'theft prevention' system out of all the potential solutions is truly awe-inspiring.
Thank your for the great video this morning!
If GM finds a good solution they change it the next year.
ave. elechiken.. duclaw... yup, this is why i wont buy a new vehicle..1 thing shts,,it could be 1 of 10. unrelated problems.. blame the greenies & epa.. 1 exploding volcano, puts out more crap than we do in a thousand yrs.. funny,, there banning cows cos they fart.. do humans fart.?. lets ban humans.. cows have a secret fire,, they pick up burning stiks, & chase each other around when they want to fart..
@@Clearanceman2 when GM makes something good, it usually means that's the end for said product.
Damn it Jim, I'm an electrician not a mechanic. 😂
I think dodge has gm beat. When a dodge gets to rusty it won't start. Or like in my case my dodge dakota won't charge at 14v all from a rotten positive cable that is shorted internally.
I bought a 6.0 Silverado used for a winter vehicle a few years back,drove it home perfectly fine parked it changed all of the brakes and lines, and it never started again I spent hours upon hours researching looking for this fix and never found a good one I could follow to get the truck to start, and here you come years later and resolve it in 10 minutes. I love and hate this video all at the same time!
Your collection of tools is impressive. Your knowledge of how to use those tools is even more impressive.
That's why he makes the big bucks!(or at least I hope he does) Eric is a top notch mechanic!
Awesome 😎
It's not the cost of the chalk. It's knowing where to put the mark.
We are a dying g breed, everyone wants a shortcut these days
@@phillipschutter24 You mean like the daily questions on FB car forums...my car died on me today and won't restart any guesses...LOL my god people. Then they get cranky when a guy tells em to take it to a shop
Cutting the wires…that cracked me up. I dig this channel. E has such a good sense of humor.
I appreciate your inexpensive fix for a lot of the older vehicles you work on. I'm sure your customers do as well.
$0.75 cents in parts, 1/2 hrs labor so it works.
or $$$ parts, and 2 hrs labor and it will fail again sometime in the future.
hmmm, what to do what to do......
@@robertsmith2956 did u mean u know another way? can u tell me ? thanks ..
My Son and I were talking about my Father who was a mechanic specializing in front end alighment. He retired when the cars started to have electronics. When I was 15 they got in a 1954 Chev panel truck with a tired engine, He sat down on a bucket and had me do the overhaul. When my son reached 16 I found a 1985 Chev S-10 that had been run without oil. My turn to sit on the bucket and have him do the overhaul. It ran another 110,000 miles. I noticed you did the same thing with both girls, but no bucket. Good job !!
I spent years trying to fix this problem on my 98' k1500 after some idiot f'ed up an aftermarket security/remote start install. After buying a whole set of factory service manuals and getting stranded several times on job sites I finaly found that stupid aftermarket resistor under the steering column. God how I wish i knew about your channel and youtube in 2003. Love you man...keep it coming.
From your previous bypass video I was able to get my mom's 2002 Impala to start correctly using two 2200 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in parallel...a big "Thank You" from me & her :)
1 watt WOW. That is one greedy security system. The battery must die after a long weekend.
@@robertsmith2956
It doesn't use a full watt but I wanted to make sure the resistors would never even get close to heating up while in use ;)
@@robertsmith2956
PS> You can use a 1/4 watt resistor but I am just a Safety Sally about my mom.
@@gregorythomas333 Not in the will huh. ;)
@@robertsmith2956
Not yet :D
The Automotive Wizard strikes again!!! You can teach or write a book when you retire & you will make a lot of us very happy. Keep up the excellent work.
I've been using a 2.2k ohm resister soldered at the BCM connector. This eliminates any wire/connector issues to the column. Did the first one about 18 yrs ago and over 100 done, and never had any come back.
That's what I used to do. Sounds like he wanted to A: see if this works and B: keep from doing the 10 or 30 minute relearn.
Hi Scrappy, if you add in the 2.2 ohm resister will that eliminate the relearn process ? I have a 1998 with the 6.5 td & it is a pain in the a...
After installing the resistor, it will have to relearn the new value. By the way it's a 2.2K as in 2200 ohms.@@michaelmaloney436
After installing the resistor, you will have to learn the new value. By they way its's a 2.2K or 2200 ohm resistor.@@michaelmaloney436
How did you do that?
Thanks Eric - This video was a great help! Thought about spending the $80 on a new lock/sensor assembly and the all-day time and lack of tools that I really don't have before finding your bypass video. I have a 2004 Avalanche and the wiring configuration appears a bit different but I figured it out. My voltages were 5.0 and 1.7 across the leads with switch off/on respectively. I used some basic math with your values and set my resistor to 1,236 ohms. Tested the connection and had 1.65V across the leads so I tweaked the resistance until I had 1.7V again. Worked perfect - thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Good morning Eric,
I hope you are doing well! I followed your bypass video and all seemed to go well. However, the security "feature" still persists. About an hour into driving the truck, the failure occurs. It usually starts with a radio malfunction and it dies. Then the Christmas tree of dashboard lights and gauges going offline begins. With the bypass resistor, I did notice the display cycles from Driver1/UNKNOWN DRIVER - slight difference from original problem.
I'm able to clear things with a battery disconnect/reconnect with an hour delay however, the failure occurs as described above. Is it possible that the BCM is the issue? I really appreciate all that you do!
Thanks again,
Aaron
Only thing I'd add is to put a drop of glue on the resistor to assure the value can't change
Not everyone hates the crimp & seal, those are my go to solution when called for. Thank You and keep up the good work.
GM, I watch your videos of your jobs and have developed a different approach of troubleshooting that has really improved my time on repairs
I'm glad to say thanks to SMA I have easily started more than a dozen early 2000 model Chevy trucks and drove them directly to their 'new owners'. It's amazing how many of these trucks can be found right in your local Walmart parking lot.
Just putting this out there.....I absolutely love this channel. Gave me so much confidence over the last 10 years to do my own car repairs.
Found your channel a while ago Great Job 68 years old been pulling wenches most of my working life, just changed a steering column in a 98 c3500 thanks for the help it's refreshing to follow someone with the same mind set, remember if you make it look easy it makes them all wonder
Hi Airyfast, is a 1998 the same process ?
Ive done it with blazers and s10s, no need to find the resistance etc, I simply cut the wires and connect them to themselves. Leave the key on for 45 minutes with the charger hooked up to follow the relearn procedure and you now have a 0 ohm key! Ive done this 6 or so times over the years
Would that work on 2002 s10. My security light is on, when key not in and when it on ACC but when I turn key all the way , then the light isn't on , I tried splicing the 2 wires together and doing the 30 min reset procedure and it didn't work
Amazing! Finally some one who not only understands but actually explains clearly.
Don't know how often you do this type of work Mr. O but I got one would like to see more. As our vehicles get older, these immobilizer systems start to fail, leaving us stranded with many hundreds of dollars to be spent between towing, parts, and locksmithing.
That is true, but remember, not everyone used an immobilizer until at least 2004. I drive a 2003 Mazda Protege 5 wagon and it has no chipped keys so it does not have the immobilizer, but the 04, first year Mazda 3 does, as did many manufacturers by then. GM, and Ford did did this security thing on some models as far back as 1988 on the Corvette and Ford by the mid 90's when they went with a new key system on cars like the Contour. Some Chryslers may have had it before 2004-05 as my mother's Dodge Stratus (I think an 04 or 05) did not have it. Later models did however.
Just remember, this is about the only system you can easily bypass this way. Other methods of security, you can't just bypass with basic tools.
@snoopdogie187 oh Don't I know it. Had a Chrysler laid up for a week until the ECU was reflashed. Really no other way around it except having a mobile locksmith come or tow to a dealership which was big money
@@johnhpalmer6098 Late as '03, Dodge trucks didn't have chipped keys/fobs (or, they'd have one plus a plain steel one).
My security system is a 1997 pickup with 239K. Prior to that, you had to know which way to put a Dodge key into the ignition, back to at least the '65 Dart I had.
You don't need an anti theft system on a vehicle no one would want to steal. Great fix.
I had this very problem, years ago, with my 2000 Savana. I was able to get GM to pay for it ( $700). They had issued a repair bulletin about it and knew it was a problem. They didn't volunteer it, but I got it. Also I am indifferent to electrical crimps.They work, I use them. Mainly because I'm terrible at soldering wires.
I was just saying to myself “I wish Eric O would post another repair vid using crimp connectors” and low and behold! Very ASMR
Eric I have used shrink butt connectors for years and no problems.. When used on interior stuff I just crimp and shrink.. But on outter stuffs I use heat shrink over the butt connectors for extra protection.😉.. Great video Brother.. 🖒🖒
hey, Mr. O. I love it when you outsmart the control freaks. They say it makes everybody safer or something. Crooks always know how to steal whatever they want to steal. All this fancy electronic stuff is just false security. Every time somebody uses a wireless unlock they send out a signal for any crook to grab out of the air. A good detective also knows how to bypass locks and other security devices. I was a locksmith back in the day. Most security is an illusion. Real security is usually expensive and wears sunglasses. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
Trying to imagine my rottweiler with sunglasses.
Passlock was a terrible design even when it worked properly. Thanks for another great video! (Mrs Tizzo is playing all of your videos in slow motion to see if you got the magnet and put it on the fridge. Lol)
Laid up recovering from hip replacement. Really enjoy your work. Keep on going on!
Speedy recovery!
@@redarrow3722 Ditto!
Remember, don’t cross your legs!!😂
Just had my knee replaced. Hope you got lots of good pain meds. I’m dying here!
I use heat shrink butt connectors every day- we build million dollar fire trucks , and that's what connects the miles of wire in them! Great video_ I should have done that years ago on the Buick Rendezvous.......water under the bridge.
Missed the dot of hot melt glue or rtv on the Rvar screw. Keeps it from vibrating out and changing the value over time.
Aligned probably a thousand transceivers by now. Know how many move after adjustment? None. Aviation, ground vehicles, rack radios. Nothing moves. I'll put high temp tamper wax... just to keep people honest.
@@ShainAndrews You must have better quality components and vehicles than I do! Have not done thousands, and have had more than one of those variable resistors change over time. Especially on high frequency motor controllers. Hit the right speed, they walk right out.
thanks for trimming the zip tie ends...I hate how some ppl leave them long and unfinished! One of my many pet peeves!
Thanks for posting this. Too late for me. I had a 98 Bonneville that I junked due to this issue. No start security light flashing and it locked the trans and key in the column. I feel dumb now for scrapping it.
Did this on my 1994 Bonneville. Just read the resistance off the key, did the math, and grabbed a couple of resistors from Radio Shack. No re-learn necessary. That variable resistor is handy, now that there isn't a Radio Shack on every corner.
Thank you for the harness tour. No mystery just good old cabin contortium repair work!
Had a 2002 Buick Lesabre doing that. Back in 2009. Shop charged me $400 to bypass it. Thanks for the video
Easy as security bypass Eric! Woohoo, I was still awake when this was posted on UA-cam at about 1230am Australian Eastern Standard time.
Thanks MR O. I have a little tip for you on the crimps. I wrench on heavy trucks and trailers a ton and use them often. In a tight space always put the crimpers on the crimp first and then feed your wire with your other hand so you already have set up. Much easier
I love simple, smart repairs like this when the "smart" (relearn) version proves, well, not so smart after all. Thanks as always, Eric!
God bless anyone that makes my laziness less shameful. 😅 Good video, I learned something new...
The cutting the wire brings me back to my military days . I sucked at math which by the way is VERY important when rigging charges of C4 . We all set our charges in the blow burms and we’re walking back as a group when my charge went off covering us with dirt and small rocks . I got better at math fast after that beat down
Some guy told me there is a method for calculating how much explosive to use for a particular blow... then you add "P" factor... P for Plenty.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 😂😂👊🏻 yup
Calculate how much explosive you need then double that value. But don't miscalculate the time it takes for a fuse.
@@paullinkins8121 yes that is the most important. I was a no go that day 😵💫
This math has its limits when the ground is jungle saturated. Had the demonstrators for blowing a mortar pit with C4 use the book to calculate the amount needed to get the proper depth for one with insurance to go deeper. Nope, the hole was deep enough to get the minimum distance. (Jungle Operations Training Center in January of 1989.)
Did this on my '96 Olds 88, years ago but I measured the resistance in my key and bought resistors from radio shack, found the wires in line and soldered the resistor in...worked like a charm
Thanks eric! Im about to do this very thing. Booked him in today. So a quick refresher is all i needed. Love the crimp and seal, as long as a feller dont puncture the seal when crimping.
Just followed this procedure on ‘99 newer body style Silverado and it worked flawlessly. Thanks!
Good engineering there. Whenever I used a variable device like your resistor, when I got it set I would put a dab of fingernail polish on the screw and housing to hold it in place. If you ever need to adjust it again the nail polish breaks free easily.
Thank you for another great video brother. I am by no means a mechanic but due to not being able to afford to pay a mechanic I have to do it all myself. I have a 2005 Silverado 2500hd with a 6.0 and your videos have helped me on every single repair I've done. Just wanted to thank you brother keep the videos coming
I had a 1987 corvette and I remember cutting a wire under the dash and putting in a resistor that matched the chip on the key. I had no problem after that.
Had theftlock activate when I changed the radio in or eldorado, my local auto tech did what your doing here, fixed the problem, except for when the car was warmed up it randomly would not not start, I would typically wait ten to thirty minutes and then it would start and drive, Like your vids, longtime viewers, don't always leave a comment but do always watch and like, Have a Great Weekend Pal
I just did this last week, must of got lucky. I use a 10 ohm resistor I had laying around and didn't have to do the relearn. 2000 Silverado
Not the crimp and seal connectors again! I can’t believe you keep using those despite what all of us experts tell you. 😂. Keep doing you, Eric. Great job as always
Love your videos. I've been struggling with the infamous "no-crank/no-start" problem on a 2001 Monte Carlo. Just when I think it's gone, it returns. The car was subject to the GM ignition switch recall a few years back and had the repair. When I pulled the ignition switch, the PASSLOCK sensor had been secured by a cable tie which had slipped, so I replaced it and added some electrical tape for good measure. Worked fine for several months, then out of the blue, the problem was back. I read somewhere that a weak battery can cause it too and since it tested as bad, I replaced it and the problem went away again for a couple of weeks, but suddenly returned. Just replaced the ignition switch housing with a Dorman from Amazon that was only $40. Found that the PASSLOCK connector seemed loose in the new one also, so I did the cable tie thing again. Car is cranking every time now, knock on wood. The sensor just clips into the ignition housing though, so I'm not sure how replacing the housing helps and I won't be surprised if it doesn't. I reused the old lock cylinder and existing keys. If it happens again, I'm going for your bypass solution.
love the simple solution. placing a little spot of paint or some of Mrs O's nail polish on the variable resistor adjuster will make sure the voltage never changes
Back in the early 90's I did so many of that bypass that I was having dreams about it. I worked for the city and one key fix the whole fleet of the police car and such. We had to do a lot of rekeying on the door's trunk lids and all.
Old caprices were ALL keyed alike from GM and did not come with pats. They came with a circle key that worked every single police car in the country.
Eric, I think you have one more happy customer. Glad to see you didn't get any blood on those wires. Thanks for Sharing!
I always get nervous snipping wires with the battery connected. Great video Mr.O
I figured that if you were presenting this method on the video it must have worked, but part of me was hoping something would go wrong, so I could say "Resistance is Futile!"
I ordered a 10 pack of the Variable resistors (5k) to make my own ($8.00), What a great bypass and video. Question: What if you cut wires and attached resistor and had someone crank while you adjusted setting (until it starts) --- would be a little more "mission impossible" lol. This old mechanic loves your videos. Thank you very much for your time.
Did that work for you ?
@@andrewcampbell7280 I did get the 10 pack (they took forever to arrive) but after replacing the Ignition harness on my 1998 Yukon, I tried the key and it started! Not sure why because I didn't do the 10/10/10 procedure for relearn. Guess I just got lucky and the resistor in the new harness was the same.
This is the best automotive repair channel ever. Really nice work. Wish I was closer to your shop.
Wow! I've never seen that one before. You should learn something new every day. I've done that now! Thanks Mr O!
I love you tube. The TV is on but I watch you tube . I did the resistor bypass a few years ago on my wife's 2001 Pontiac Grand Am after too many 10 min. relearns. My wife has passed but the Grand Am is still going strong. I love the both of them and your Channel.
Never seen this kind of a repair. Good job Eric 👍
*saw
Done this a million times, ironically, but I've never seen passlock deter a decent thief. I actually special-ordered my truck directly from general motors with the passlock delete option.
I love seeing the truly amazing durability of automobiles. Every car ever made WILL finally age to a point where it can NOT be fixed. GM engineers designed this GMC to last 5 years without a major repair. They did that so that the car would be affordable. Yet here it is running at 21-years-old. That "key recognition system" is an electronic device and yet it lasted 21 years. Do you have a cell phone that old? A TV that old? A computer that old? Right. I repeat, this is amazing.
I have a telephone that's older than this. (It's also rotary.) 😛
@@LadyAnuB Visited my childhood home in 2018, after 60 years, the wall-mounted, rotary phone was still working. But... that is my point. To buy a new-technology phone that durable today, you would have to spend thousands of dollars. To buy a car that durable is certainly possible, but it would cost several million dollars. That rotary phone was owned by the phone company, and they sent a repairman to the house to fix it at no cost to the homeowner. AT&T did not want them to need repair.
Bob’s your uncle! Great repair done right, going to Chevy to replace that component would have been ridiculous. I approve!
I love those connectors and use them often. It beats soldering. great job Eric......Pete
I have a 2001 impala with the 3400. I had the same problem. Was also having issues with the a/c not working. It was an issue with the bcm having bad soldering. Replaced bcm, (had to get programmed at dealer) and all those problems were solved.
For cutting tape and whatnot on harnesses, a seam ripper for sewing is a godsend. Just be sure to tilt it away from the wires after you get under the tape so you don't stab or gash a wire.
I would imagine that the majority of people understand the purpose of UA-cam incentive to encourage people to post comments is, so that it's A.I can read it, learn about the user, and also learn how to mimic personality.
With that said, double plus good job as always Mr. O.
Miss my 95' Sierra. She was pretty.
“ Gotta be careful fella *slams gear shift into park*” 😂 Can’t tell ya how many times I have done that and the shift link cable broke the stud clean off the trans. Now I move it carefully and slowly 1 gear at a time and pray!
We had a similar situation with an early 90's Caprice. Key had a resistor built inside. Read with multimeter and replaced with a similar resistor under the steering column. Works every time. Thanks!
The crimp and seal connectors are what we stock and are recommended to use for wire repairs at the dealer
Also the GM standard in assembly plants now :)
The quick way is take the key if it has the black pill in the middle of key and read resistance across either side of the metal contacts. Did that on a 1992 Buick Park Avenue. Had the same issue. Did help that I worked at an electronics based facility.
That's passKEY. This is PassLOCK. The clue is in the name.
I remember having to do this in the early 2000's when we were installing remote start. Nowadays bypass modules are necessary on almost every vehicle but it makes installing a remote start alarm so much easier. Instead of having to connect to 20 or 30 wires now it's just a handful. Never tried the adjustable pot resistor, always had to meter it and rig up resistors within +/-10% of the value.
Had this issue on a customers 94 Grand Am. The pass lock circuit went from the ignition through the cluster, and into the ignition control module. The cluster circuit board would overheat when the instrument panel backlights were on (headlights were on), cutting out the signal wire. Rebuilt the IPC and problem solved. Had to solder in a resistor onto the IPC to keep it from shorting out again. While I was in there, I replaced all the stepper motors for the gauges.
Love the crimp and seal connectors. Been working at a GM dealership for 30 years and haven’t had problems with them. The only problem is when the parts department buys cheap ones. It happened today installing a trailer brake controller, crimped the connector and the wire pulled out when I was testing it. SMH
They are the best in my opinion.
They are quick to use, excellent in tight spots like under the dash and in the engine bay.
You have to be sure to get a good crimp, which means a good crimping tool too. I like the heat shrink connectors.
I just want to come clear across the country to just shake your hand, you are wonderful.
Seeing those internal capacitors going across the terminals on the module explains the reason these fail... caps will leak , short or open after so many years
Thank you for this. Have been trying to bypass my security for about 2 months now. Thanks to this my truck is operational again, added aftermarket security and autostart while I was in there. Appreciate all the detail 💪😎
I was a technician back in the 70s80s . I wake up most days thinking there’s not much I can’t fix and I know a lot of chit . Then I watch Eric and realize I don’t no chit always learning something. Lol remember folks if he can do no you probably can’t unless you got 35 years of experience like Eric 😂😂
"Make it look like Best Buys been here" - Love it, you ain't wrong!
This was a nice clean fix! Looks SMA factory! Keep up the awesome work that You do Eric.👍
Great job my friend stopped me yesterday at the store with this same problem will forward it to him so he can finally get his truck running
You got my respect for taking 20+ yrs old vehicles and dealing with rusted out frames, bodies & worst of all, the dreaded electrical connectors & greenies in the harnesses, I work on 10yr old and younger, and find the same crazies.
I like the crimp, shrink wrap and solder joints at the same time ones
Great Job. My truck also has that problem. Every once in a while it wont start for 10 minutes because of that problem.
always learn something new with Eric's videos. What else can you use those resisters for?
At least for seat belt bing bong
Great video Eric. Some shops won't bypass that resistor. They will make you buy the theft module. Great job as always.
Eric, Nice work as usual! You sure do have a lot of tricks in your bag!
6:45 this is why your videos are my favorite. I actually laughed aloud
What are those ends called you put on your multi meter to tap into the wire to check the voltage? I’ve got to have some.
I’m a big fan of adhesive lined electrical crimps. The first thing I did 20 years ago after taking delivery of a new 23 foot center console boat was to rip out all the factory wiring and replace it with tin coated marine grade wire and crimps. After pounding like a bobber in LI Sound and Montauk Point for 2,000+ hours, I have not had a single electrical problem. My friends who solder connections can’t say the same. Crimps done right are better under vibrating conditions.
Wonder about that variable resistor's stability over time in the truck environment?
First the resistor is going to be stable enough
Second it can be adjusted
Third the security system is not that damn fussy
W on the link posted for them adjustable resistors, thanks for showing your work as always. Guy is a masterclass in the field hands down.
"As long as it's sharp enough to cut you when you slip you'll be ok"
I thought this was the only way.
Holy shit dude. Pro Mechanics Like Mr. O here are fkn geniuses. seriously... I wish I were this smart. I have this same problem with my ABS and BRAKE lights and they drive me insane but I just don't have the balls and in particular, the knowledge and experience to figure things out like this. I wish I was just half as smart as this fellow here.
Thanks for this video Eric! My buddy has this problem with his 97 Grand Am.
So just to be sure I've got this clear. The passkey sensor on these are dying, and normally the passkey reads the resistance of the inserted (and learned key), so the bypass is to simply put a resistor across the wires to simulate a key, then learn that resistance value once, and since it'll never fluctuate, it'll always start with any key that is cut for the ignition?
yep any key that will turn the tumbler will start the vehicle.
@@pacificparts why would you steal a gm in the first place.. ever watched ausie bathurst..all the holdens run ford parts..or they,d never win or finish..fact.. toranas, have rear drop tanks,,so you cant see the 9''diff. plus they run v8 brakes on the 6 cyls.. bartletts camaro,wanted to run disc, as they do in u.s. but wasnt allowed..he rolled it.. ford sierras, johnson, 4 laps ahead, banned,, 1989.. all european cars, merc, niss, toyo, ect, at bathurst, now,, had to de tune there engines,, to race specs.. this is why we call it a taxi race, all the fkn same.. when mustangs were first,few yrs back, raced, they won every race, so they got,''modified'', to comply..
Yup. Except on the Passlock systems, the resistor is not actually in the key, it's in the ignition lock cylinder.
Thanks for the go by to fix. I did not use the variable resistor, but i did use a 2.2K and the old 2000 Suburban fired right back up. I also had an alarm system on this truck that the pass was wired into. It did not affect anything so all is good.
Nice video, please put the link to buy those resisters. Thanks
👍👍