Thanks for making this video, it helped me figure out how to remove my old controller and also what types/brands would likely be a replacement. At first I was a bit miffed as you were between the camera and what I wanted to see, but I still got the idea and this was great information. thanks again!
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Good man, still many thanks. I'm going to tackle this job sometime this week and your input was very helpful. I'm excited to upgrade my old controller, it was still working but a bit worn and the shift cable was binding quite bad. The updated look will be an added bonus.
I’m thinking now of repairing my controller via Side Mount Kit 317002 and replacing the plunger and neutral switch. $150 and easier than retrofitting a newer controller.
I know it is a Long time you posted the video, but does the remote control have like a throttle tension adjustment? I have the same control, but you need a lot of Force to increase throttle. It could be the cables, but it could also be an adjustment in the control. Any chance it could be the last possibility?
Very helpful video! Thank you. I am replacing my cobalt controller due to failed neutral button. I am replacing my sl3 with a sea star CHX8554P. My question is why so many wires going to the sl3 when the only electic action is the trim tabs. I haven’t received it yet but from pics it looks like the CHX8554P only has 2 wires going to it. Appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks for the video- it gave me enough info to take this job on myself!
There are the trim wires, the neutral safety cut-out wires, and then if you have the kill switch option there are the kill switch wires. So, it's not just the trim tab wires.
”Kill switch”? I thought that was for the drive switch to enable the Beach Mode and allowing the drive to reach the very top position. Is that an option and to be used as you like?
Not all of the Volvos have the trailer button to push the drive to a higher setting. The Volvos require a separate control module that stops the trim pump when the sender reaches a specific resistance measurement and most Volvos don't have that installed. In my limited experience, I think most Mercruisers (which do have the trailer button) don't use the Seastar controllers but instead use the Quicksilver controllers, which have a separate trailer button location. That hole specifically is for the kill switch tether, but you don't *have* to install the kill switch in the controller. In my boat (and many Cobalts) a separate kill switch is installed in the dash that tethers can attach to, so I didn't use it.
I have this same controller and need to tighten my throttle tension. My throttle slowly backs itself to neutral if I don’t keep my hand on it. Did you find the throttle tension screw?
Yes, go here: www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/CH1700-7500-7600-Rev.4-ISCH7500.pdf and look at page 14 for the "friction adjust screw".
Thanks for making this video, it helped me figure out how to remove my old controller and also what types/brands would likely be a replacement. At first I was a bit miffed as you were between the camera and what I wanted to see, but I still got the idea and this was great information. thanks again!
Sorry about the camera obstructions! I'll try to do better. Appreciate the feedback.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Good man, still many thanks. I'm going to tackle this job sometime this week and your input was very helpful. I'm excited to upgrade my old controller, it was still working but a bit worn and the shift cable was binding quite bad. The updated look will be an added bonus.
I’m thinking now of repairing my controller via Side Mount Kit 317002 and replacing the plunger and neutral switch. $150 and easier than retrofitting a newer controller.
Hi i will like to buy your old throttle control lever?
Sorry, I no longer have it.
I know it is a Long time you posted the video, but does the remote control have like a throttle tension adjustment? I have the same control, but you need a lot of Force to increase throttle. It could be the cables, but it could also be an adjustment in the control. Any chance it could be the last possibility?
It does - you need to pop of the left side cover, if I recall correctly, and there is a tension bolt behind the plate.
Awesome. Thanks for helping me with this project!
Glad I could help!
Hey Chris. Thanks for the video! I’m wanting to replace my controller. How’s the CH1700 holding up?
Still working great - I've been very happy with the change.
Very helpful video! Thank you. I am replacing my cobalt controller due to failed neutral button. I am replacing my sl3 with a sea star CHX8554P. My question is why so many wires going to the sl3 when the only electic action is the trim tabs. I haven’t received it yet but from pics it looks like the CHX8554P only has 2 wires going to it. Appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks for the video- it gave me enough info to take this job on myself!
There are the trim wires, the neutral safety cut-out wires, and then if you have the kill switch option there are the kill switch wires. So, it's not just the trim tab wires.
when you ordered your model did the cable retainers come with the unit. If not could you send the parts name and number.
They came with the unit.
can you post a link for the older mericruiser controller replacement? I cant find it on your profile. Thanks
Do you mean this video? ua-cam.com/video/XuIaCd1nvg0/v-deo.html
”Kill switch”? I thought that was for the drive switch to enable the Beach Mode and allowing the drive to reach the very top position. Is that an option and to be used as you like?
Not all of the Volvos have the trailer button to push the drive to a higher setting. The Volvos require a separate control module that stops the trim pump when the sender reaches a specific resistance measurement and most Volvos don't have that installed. In my limited experience, I think most Mercruisers (which do have the trailer button) don't use the Seastar controllers but instead use the Quicksilver controllers, which have a separate trailer button location. That hole specifically is for the kill switch tether, but you don't *have* to install the kill switch in the controller. In my boat (and many Cobalts) a separate kill switch is installed in the dash that tethers can attach to, so I didn't use it.
hi, do you have a link for this controller ?
WHY did you replace it (the shift lever) ? I also have a Cobalt a 21BR
My old one was feeling a little notchy and I wanted an updated look.
How is this holding up? Thinking about getting it
Fantastic! 5 years later looks and works like new.
I have this same controller and need to tighten my throttle tension. My throttle slowly backs itself to neutral if I don’t keep my hand on it. Did you find the throttle tension screw?
Yes, go here: www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/CH1700-7500-7600-Rev.4-ISCH7500.pdf and look at page 14 for the "friction adjust screw".
@@SlideruleRacingProducts much thanks!
Chris, where did you ordered?
I ordered it from Amazon actually. But it was many years ago, so not sure if they still sell it.
Did you go with the cables from the same manufacturer or did you look for other cables that are known to have minimal resistance?
I went with the Seastar Xtreme cables
I have a 2005 255 was curious how long your cables are in your boat. Guessing 17 feet long?
It looks like when I replaced the throttle cable, the one I bought was 17'. Good luck!