Thanks thanks thanks. Wonderful and very knowledgeable videos. I have been working on boats for over 30 years and I am so happy that you are on the u-tube. Instead of relaying on Manuel and going thru them and not finding the answer, I look on u-tune for the answer.Again thanks.
Michael Romer I did today . Working on a ‘87 OMC with large Ford engine. I liked what you said about the spring on the shifter unit. He is having a problem. I will order one tomorrow. Thanks
Me and my dad are working on a project boat and your videos have been invaluable. The boat is a 1988 Four Winns with an OMC 3.0. We have replaced the gimbal bearing, bellows, put a rebuild kit in the distributor and installed new spark plugs. We also overhauled the ESA system because one of the previous owners had the micro switches mounted in the wrong positions and over-torqued so that the interrupter switch plunger was stuck in. We've done extensive work on the shift cable and the ESA system following these videos. We tried starting the boat today and we are not getting spark when we try to start using the key ignition switch. Our neighbor came over and showed us how to run a jumper from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive on the coil and use a screwdriver to short terminals on the starter. The engine started right up and idled very nicely. When the jumper was pulled the engine died. What does this mean? Where should I focus my troubleshooting efforts? Could a faulty ESA module cause this behavior? Thank you so much.
Thanks for your comments Shawn. You can unplug the ESA module on the left manifold for testing. You might also have a bad solenoid. Keep in mind subscribers get first dibs on replies.
The solenoid gets its power from the solenoid and is activated with a signal from the key being on. Rather than running a wire from your battery to your solenoid. If you hit that subscribe button, I’ll make a video on it, just for you.
Newly discovered that the engine will continue to run after the jumper is pulled if the key ignition is turned on. I unplugging the ESA module but it did not remedy this no spark condition with the use of just key ignition switch. Interestingly though, once started with the jumper, the engine seems to get no response from triggering the overstroke switch even when the interrupter switch is not actuated. I ran all the continuity tests per your video and I can say the switches are good. That's why I believed that the spark problem bay be related to the ESA module.
Michael, This is Bryan. Your doing a great service to all us old OMC owners out here. Its tough keeping this old drive working, ours is a 1991. Ours was good until last year. We were out boating in the summer, engine warm, real hot day and unit wouldn't come out of forward without pulling way too hard. Throughout the rest of the summer it appeared my old ESA module was okay when cold but after heating up would not function anymore. I tested it by triggering the interupt switch on the W and there was no cut out effect. It always did hesitate the engine in the past. I purchased a 1999 New ESA module from my OMC dealer. Supposedly it has all the latest updates. So I installed the Newer ESA module last fall, then the engine wouldn't shift into forward without dieing out. Over winter I checked all the cables for smoothness. The shift cable to the outdrive was replaced 6 or 7 years ago. It was smooth and easy to pull also. I had the outdrive off the boat, the Neutral, Forward, and Reverse bar worked smoothly. I also took the gear shift lever assembly, cleaned and regreased it. Everything is super smooth. This spring I took boat to my OMC dealer and had him adjust the cables. He says they are all correct. Now it appears the new ESA module works going into forward, out of forward and reverse both ways, I don't think it did all of that in the past. The instructions with the ESA module say the module not longer looks at the overstroke switch only the interupt switch in the W. So my dealer thinks I may have to wire the overstroke switch in series with the interupt switch to achieve the shift performance I used to have. That way it would only allow the interupt switch at certain times. I'm debating this move. Right now the boat will shift without stalling about 3/4 of the time. Problem is when it stalls it is always at the worst possible time. Like pulling into a dock or loading on the trailer. I would appreciate your thoughts on the wiring change to include the overstroke switch.
Hey Bryan! I thought about messing with the ESA wiring a few times myself and I've never gave in. I've seen people configure a momentary switch on the floor that they press to activate the overstroke switch manually. Basically, right before a shift, they mash the button. You can remove the interrupt switch and solder the wires together--seems like it could work, but I've never seen done like that. The overstoke switch would have to remain in the center of the W during normal operation to not stall--tricky. As a quick reminder, the interrupt switch shouldn't trip the ESA system. It's purpose should be to disable the overstroke switch. The overstroke switch is suppose to activate your ESA system. Keep in mind that the interupt switch is a normally open switch and the overstroke is a normally closed. Your newer ESA module seems like a CDI version. www.marinepartssource.com/shift-assist-module-cdi-electronics-123-7878?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9LPYBRDSARIsAHL7J5lUxp8nPJFDuSdO0ZbKMr88Kpa27H-H7VxlyZadTRmyViQeV7StbDoaAha-EALw_wcB Also try and revert back to a 1991 ESA module (0987876). www.ebay.com/itm/A1-0987876-987876-OMC-Cobra-5-0L-5-8L-Stern-Drive-Shift-Module-Kit/332603692016?epid=1230982070&hash=item4d70b993f0:g:dDYAAOSw2ylavk3P
Michael Romer, yeah I had my switch names mixed up, sorry about that. The positions I had right. The module I bought is an OMC part. If I cut wires I'll keep you posted.
I was going to leave the interrupt switch in place, just wire it in series with the over stroke switch. Then it seems as the shift lever is moved it will have its old function by opening the circuit and shutting off the over stroke switch like the old original module did. I've tried to attach a pic of the new ESA module schematic but I don't know how. Anyway it shows it only connects the wires from the over stroke switch to the module. The interrupt switch has no connection to the module at all. So I'm thinking trying the wiring next. If it don't work I can always put it back with solder and heat shrink.
Michael and all others following this new ESA module saga. This is Bryan. I reviewed the original non functioning ESA module wiring and connectors. The old module had the Overstroke switch in series with the Interupt switch by connecting the switches at the connector that connects from the module to the switches. The newer ESA module only had wiring to the Overstroke switch. Out of both modules there are only two wires going to the switches. So I spliced the old module's switch connection plug to the new module and tested it out. This worked, it is shifting like it used to. No more dying for no reason when shifting into Forward and coming back to Neutral. YEAH !!!! So the burning question is who designed this new ESA module to omit the Interupt switch, a serious mistake !!!!
Bryan.. This is exactly the situation I was trying to explain in a prior reply... My interrupter switch is essentially non-functional (even when activated by the bracket tab in forward) because only the overstroke switch is wired out of the 4 wire switch connector... 4 wires in from the 2 switches and only the overstroke switch is wired out... The other 2 wire pins have been removed from the connector and plugged... So essentially the overstroke switch is never disabled by the interrupter switch (meaning the overstroke switch is functional in both reverse & forward)... So I guess I'll give that series switch wiring a try (I have a 91 4 winns 5.8)... Thanks for posting Bryan.. Best.. Arthur... BTW Mike: Not wanting to be disagreeable but I believe the OS switch is called Normally Open (NO) because it makes continuity when pressed and the Interrupt switch is Normally Closed (NC) because it breaks continuity when pressed, at least that's the way it works on mine... Thanks again for all your time... I have to do your carb rebuild procedure next..!
Dude I don't know what I would do without you. I have learned so much from all your videos. Seriously so much! I think this may have gave me what I needed to know. We will see tomorrow 🤙
thank you because of your video i replaced the lower shift cable on a used boat i bought switched into neutral and reverse fine . foreword locked up cable came out of crimped end good thing i had another outer sleeve found the sweet spot on the upper cable . now it slide right into reverse neutral , reverse and foreword. THANK YOU
I've been anxiously waiting for the "final" step, THANK YOU SO MUCH! So, story with my "hole in the water i throw money in to" Old guy owned it, stored in a garage and so forth, boat is in like new condition. It wasn't running, he had put a new engine in and fell ill and passed away last year before he got it finished. I purchased the boat, got it running, thought the idle was too low, so I loosened the black trunion bolt and adjusted the trunion nut and tightened down the bolt. After that, running it in my shop, the idle was too high (I thought) so I adjusted the idle set screw (not the idle air mixture). seemed ok, so i threw it in the water, it was doing decent, but while idling through the harbor (no wake) it wouldn't come out of gear to neutral. Now, I'm confident enough (even though I work on cars for a living (23 years) boats are a whole other breed) to attempt the shift cable adjustment (ordered the tools and gasket kit along with a cable). Thank you again, and happy boating!
Thanks for your comments! Boats are something else aren't they! The shift cable replacement is a piece of cake--let me know how it works out. Check out your Gimbal bearing/engine alignment/bellows while you have the stern drive off. Have a good one!
This was an excellent series! I have 1990 sunbird Corsica 175 with a 3.0L OMC. I’m currently having issues with it going into reverse. It pops right into forward no problem but grinds when putting into reverse. I adjusted the both cables because it seemed they were out of adjustment and then tested out of water and worked great. Went to put it back in the water yesterday and it’s still grinding going into reverse. Definitely need some help figuring this out! Probably going to start from scratch and fine tune until it get it right.
Just purchased a 89 bayliner Capri stern drive 5.8L Cobra OCM. read and viewed many things about diagnosis and fix. Your channel and videos have been the most help fyi and thank you making them Brought boat home hooked up ear muffs, started engine, 3 frost plugs were out, replaced them. Engine runs great. Tested forward and reverse out of water with engine off. locks in forward and reverse. turned engine on and tried Forward and Reverse worked. Put in water, would not engage reverse or forward... another boater advised pushing the lower cable manually to try and help engage (that the cables often go bad). with a little help it went in reverse, but trying to get it to forward it sounded like grinding gears, a little more force got it to engage while rocking the throttle shifter, engaged for a bit then popped out of gear, went back to dock and loaded up. brought it home pulled the prop off and there were 2 black oval plastic pieces in the exhaust line which I removed and I thought that may have been the problem (pressing on the bell housing in video 2 limiting the shifter to the shift rod) I re assembled brought to the lake with the with the wife thinking I was a hero for fixing the newly acquired boat. 1st question the plastic ovals I am guessing are for preventing reverse waterflow??? and go in the exhaust system somewhere? 2nd when I brought the wife out I pulled the lower shift cable off to tried and manually engage into forward with pliers, it worked and got going forward almost planed before something slipped, then there was no feeling in the lower shift cable, felt as if it were broke. got towed to shore loaded and home. Then after more reading and Thankfully finding your videos do you think the shift cable was improperly installed and not adjusted correctly? I ordered new cable, Jig, Seals, marine lube and new Gaskets... 763 645 9051 sean dwrocker1 @ gmail dot com
The part that came out of the exhaust is talked about here: ua-cam.com/video/yjpl3yGEQoQ/v-deo.html Hopefully two came out and not just 1. Your shift cable is toast. That video is a two part series and is located here: ua-cam.com/video/r7UXtcmhEVs/v-deo.html Check for excess metal in the lower unit. If it has pieces of metal (big pieces) watch this video for how to fix that: ua-cam.com/video/sdjgHLuktrE/v-deo.html Everything that can possible go wrong with your boat is already documented on my channel. I encourage you to get popcorn and watch everything I have that is OMC related. It will save you a headache in the future.
@@michaelromer2016 thank you. Yeah 2 came out, just saw the video of fixing them. Cable and rest of parts coming early next week. Ill be watching your lower shift cable video again before i install new cable. I haven't pulled prop apart again yet, ill be watching linked video before i do. Thank you again. I want to send ya something for the help, ive learned so much from your videos. Ill update when parts come in. Maybe ill document under novice youtube boat fix from professional video boat wizard.
I recently purchased a 1990 Seaswirl Striper 210 with an OMC 5.8 Cobra. On my first trip out I had some trouble grinding and hard shifting into reverse, and lunging back with too much throttle. We made some adjustments. It improved but felt like there was still some resistance. I felt like the next adjustment was working, although it could have been smoother. Lately, when I slide it into reverse (still hear a bit of the gear noise) it bogs down like it is overloaded, I move a foot and then dies. If I give it a bit more throttle, it acts like I am flooding the motor and may make it out of the launch. I spoke with the previous owner and he said that it worked fine for him when he used it. He made a comment that his mechanic said that it shifts a little hard going into reverse, not to be afraid of it, and gently force it in. That last part sounds intriguing to me maybe for a different activity, but not for launching around other boates. I have not yet put an oms meter on my ESA and cut off switch, but I know that the ESA does work from messing with it while running. I had another issue with a high idle after cruising for a while and not being able to shift into neutral. My carb's secondaries were sticking, and when I would manually push them closed, I could get into neutral. I realized that there is a safety measure to prevent me from shifting at high RPM. I understand that part, but can not figure out my bogging in reverse?!? Can you offer me some advice?
I’d go after rebuilding the carbs for sure. I have a video on how to do it, it’s not too hard. Plus a video on how to tune it. I’m also hearing your ESA is working fine-that’s good. The problem here is you need to fine tune your reverse engagement. Bad thing is if you grind reverse too many times you have to watch my video in replacing the dog clutch/reverse gear. Do the manual go/no go test I outline in the video. You should have a solid reverse, forward, and neutral shift when shifting manually. You need to make sure your gears aren’t already damaged, plus you will be able to test your shift cable (watch my video on that by searching for it). Your year model likely uses ESA only in reverse too.
It’ll be nice if you would make a video and fire up the engine and show how it should sound when the system is working properly. Having quite the struggle getting this right.
Hoooold on there Bobbaloui , I noticed that when you first shift into Forward gear that the Detent does not return to the " V" notch on the shift selector , then after you check to see that the prop shaft won't turn and return to the bracket , the Detent is suddenly in the center of the shift selector ! I noticed this because , among other things , I have just replaced the TSC in my 1988 5.7 Cobra and after meticulous adjustment of cables by the book and with the OMC Jigs , my detent does not return to the " V " position and the outdrive hangs in gear for about a minute before letting go and shifting to neutral . In addition , I cannot hear the engine slow or " pulse " when I activate the Detent on the interrupter switch , which is the one with the lever riding in the shift selector . Can you hear a discernible slowing of the engine when you engage the switch by hand ??? I have been fighting this problem for some time now and even replaced the switches to no avail .
You have an issue with the ESA module, if you manually press the interrupter and the boat doesn't slow/stall a little. This is regardless of the cable configuration by the way. Your first action needs to be to determine why the module at idle, won't slow/stall your engine a little when manually pressed. The next piece about the V notch position, that is covered in my ESA series. It isn't a must that the detent returns to the v position--mine only mechanically can interrupt the engine in one position. Look at how I show you how to check how yours will work and that will help you figure it out. Some ESA configurations interrupt going into forward and reverse--not all of them. Start from part 1 again and watch them over a few times.
So, I removed the throttle cable, backed the carb idle screw all the way out and then set it at around 500-550 rpm. Set the throttle cable in place with no tension on the cable. Boat started and ran great. Was out on the water for about 4 hours. As I was coming in to load up, the boat wouldn’t shift out of forward, unless I slammed it into reverse then back to the neutral position. I also noticed the idle had came up to 1000-1200 rpm... I set the idle on the muffs in my driveway, not sure if that is the proper way, since I don’t think it could fully warm up with the hose water since it’s a balmy 50-55 degrees.
Alright, so there is an alignment issue here. Something came loose. One thing that is hard to duplicate out of the water is the vacuum secondaries on the carburetor. When you slammed it into reverse, you probably opened up the secondaries and dumped a bunch of fuel into the carb (increasing the idle). The idle should have gone back down once in neutral. I'm not sure if we talked about this already, but the shift cable could have encountered a lot of drag as a result of age (it may need to be replaced). Not being able to pull out of forward can be attributed to the following: shift cable age, bell-crank damaged, shift rod is set to wrong height, low fluid in lower unit. If needed, go over the ESA walk through again.
@ michael Thanks for this series, tryin to figure out some issues on my brother in laws boat. I don't have that 6.5" tool, can you be super specific as to where that 6.5" measurement starts (center of pin or wherever) to center of barrel adjuster nut (or wherever it ends). I have a feeling his issue lies here. If he tries to go into forward slowly, the interrupt tab on the lever doesn't quite get to the switch soon enough to actually interrupt the overthrow switch (tab is like 32nd of an inch away from interrupting), so the "w" moves throwing the overthrow lever, killing the engine. If he goes fast, it only cuts momentarily before the interrupt switch cut the overthrow switch out. Hope that makes sense. Anyways, this is a really nice series of videos, very thorough. Huge help for folks who know literally nothing about this type of system (I work on lots of things, but usually not boats) so thank you, really appreciated.
6.5 is the center of the pin to the center of the trunnion (barrel). It's a center to center adjustment. You really should set that for 6.5 and leave the shift cable alone. As I mentioned in the video, 6.5 is a requirement because that way it tunes the shift cable with the engine bracket. Now if you want to adjust something, looks at the upper black trunnion or the pivot bolt on the engine bracket. Also get a multi-meter, and listen to how-the overstroke/interrupter switch is work--just like I did. Also study your engine bracket like I did in the video series. Remember, the engine part of your issue is only 50% of the possible problem. There is only so much you can learn from that--meaning you may need to take the stern drive off. Keep up the questions and I will keep helping.
Michael Romer Thanks for that info. Yeah I have a feeling I will be going over everything, starting with that stern drive measurement and going from there IF this doesn't work out. He's had it to at least two guys who told him it was golden, but as soon as he puts it in the water, it acts up (works well enough but certainly not correct). Possible they never took the time to start from the beginning (stern adjustment), so it's just not right at the top??? Who knows. My bro in law is taking boat out in couple days and doesn't have gaskets to reseal stern or time to get them before so doesn't want to open up stern till after trip. I would like to see it done correctly with my own eyes so I know what I'm working with, there is no question of what's doin down there. And yeah I've watched the whole series parts 1-5 (awesome), ill go back tomorrow and check that 6.5" measurement, start there, and adjust. If it doesn't work out, stern drive will have to get opened and ill start over from there. I'll be watchin again while I'm at it, checking my stuff against your video's. Somebody commented about how they work on cars n trucks n such, these boats are a different animal. They are right. I will definitely ask if I have more questions, thank you again and also thanks for the speedy response.
Michael Romer hi, my issue is 88 four Winn’s horizon 200 5.7. Previous owner installed a car electronic distributor. Took out for test run. Starts, shifts etc. kept stalling. Top end was real bad. Fires right back up? Mount bracket. Seams loose. Could these switch s be causing it or the distributor? He recommended a pertronix marine distributor . Any thoughts ? Thankyou .
Thanks for this series Michael- makes the system understandable. However, I still can't get mine working. I have 1987 twin 4.3's and have no idea how much is original or updated. The starboard unit seemed to perform as it should one I bought the boat. I noticed that the shift cable was loose in the slot so I tightened the nut and it doesn't work as well now. The magic 6.5" on this unit is 6.75". The port unit is adjusted to 6.5" but it is the one I have the most trouble with. At the dock, it shifts ok but doesn't seem to engage the sea system. Hand manipulation of the interrupt switch does trigger the engine to stumble, but shifting the lever doesn't always create any movement of the the "W". I take it out on the lake and try numerous manoeuvres and everything seems ok. The odd time, the engine goes into stumble and won't return to normal operation. The shift server appears to be stuck when this happens and only releases with a lot of pressure. Repeated manipulations of the shift lever will release the interrupt switch. Often when I bring the boat back to harbour after an hour or more, the port unit shift lever goes to reverse but the it doesn't go into gear and I'm stuck trying to dock with one engine. Really am baffled.
Here is the deal . If you have a 1987 shift cables still installed in the boat, it needs to be changed. They are known to wear out and what you just mentioned sounds like a shift cable issue. When you have the stern drives out, you will likely encounter other issues, all which I have fixes for on this channel.
Michael, I used the alignment tool for the bottom half with the bell crank and the alignment tool for the shift cable and trunnion 6.5 and that's spot on. I go in the first or forward and then it kind of gets stuck in won't shift to reverse and then I go to reverse and it gets stuck and it won't go to forward so it's like I'm stuck in either gear I have to detach the ESA module for it to work. I have to turn the engine off to change gears not ideal. so do you think I just need to do a little finer tuning or could it be some other problem like shift rod cable
Michael, a great series of videos, thanks. But how do I actually use the cable alignment tool? I bought it and found that if I pull the cable out completely it's impossible to get 6.5 inches, only if I push the black tube in, and spin the ball on the thread, then I get 6.5. SO... how much in or out the black tube has to be? King Cobra here, 1988, Bayliner 2655
Hi, excellent videos, I replaced lower unit, I thought I put everything back where it belongs, I guess not, sometimes it shifts flawlessly other times it stalls. Both forward/reverse. Where should I attempt to adjust/ look at first.
How come I am not hearting the continuity tester when you go into forward? Looking at the way your bracket is when your in forward I would imagine the boat is stalling when in forward gear, or is this where that secondary "bypass" always on switch comes in, and we are really only want to interrupt the motor for reverse?
Just going through this on a four Winns with an omc cobra drive. out of interest we’re you running this with the conventional points/ contact distributor. Trying to go through the boat and get a reliable system as when we took the boat for its first outing the esa wasn’t connected and then spent the week using the assortment of spares before admitting defeat when the starter failed.
Hello. Great video. I have a 1992 omc cobra 3.0 ford engine. I am having trouble where it clunks into drive kinda hard. And then it is really hard to shift back to N. Also I do not notice the ESA activating a lower idle when it shifts. Question is should it lower the idle when shifting into F and R? I am going to follow step by step on your videos to check it all out. Oh and also when it goes into drive sometimes it does not get into gear solid and will clunk clunk clunk till it locks in. I am guessing this is the shift arm adjustment issue or something. Any help would be great. I will get out with the multimeter and check the stuff in your videos to see if I can resolve it. Thank you.
Mike these videos are helping me a lot. I have a 1987 Bayliner Contessa Command Bridge (fly bridge) cruiser with twin 5.0L OMC engines. Twin helms are giving me fits. I have the U-Line style controls and the old style shift bracket which only has the bottom slot adjustment. I just purchased the newer style brackets with the top slot adjustment for reverse. Since I have twin helms I need the linkage with a pin on each side since I have two of everything. The old one won’t simply go on the new bracket. Any ideas on where to find that part? I also bought two new Chinese Morse controls to replace the u-line controls and am looking for some guidance on how to swap them out. Maybe none exists. Once I got them I became suspicious that they might not work in a dual helm since the U-line control has no positive neutral click. One person said just tack out the ball and spring for neutral. I decided to see if I can make the U-line controls behave first. I’ve had issues w UL because in reverse one engine will die but on the flybridge I can’t hear the engines well especially with any wind and I’m looking back to back into slip. Do you have any one I can contact with experience to consult, or would you? I’m okay with paying for info but it’s hard to find people with experience enough to help me. I’m not new to this stuff but this one is tough. I just replaced a bad ESA so I hope that helps with the dying engine but I’m not in the water yet this season (Minnesota) and I want to do as much dry land adjusting as I can.. Trying to lay my hands on two OMC bulletins, #4022, and #4099. Also planning to take your suggestion on replacing the v springs, 0912686.. My email is bjjumbojet@gmail.com
I've got 5.0 cobra inboard having problems going to neutral from forward and reserve it feels like a tiny spot to hit without go into the opposite gear
I’m having a problem with forward shifting as you engage it into forward it goes in but once you give it more on the throttle it make a clunk noise like it’s jumping out of gear but my reverse works fine what do you think is the problem ???
Thanks for your comments! I have a bunch of new videos coming out. You will love them! Just an FYI, I'm dropping a 375HP motor in an OMC Cobra to see what it does. Keep an eye out for the new series soon.
You rock Michael. I have learned so much. I have a 93 omc cobra 351w and I am having issues with the motor revving up down. Upon start up it purrs but once I accelerate forward and then go back to neutral it starts revving. Is this s shift cable issue or any ideas. Thank you.
Hey Michael! Thank you for all the advice and encouragement btw!! I need some advice if you can spare some time? I have an 86 Sea Ray Seville with the omc cobra engine, 4 cylinder 3.0L. Reverse and neutral work great! Forward is giving me issues. Here's my big dilemma: even when sliding the shifter cable off of the pin sets and hand pulling the cable freely, as far as possible to the bow of the boat, forward gear feels like a half inch away from falling engaging!! It starts to engage into forward and just hardly spins the prop. I dont want to burn the dog clutch up or anything by doing this too often but this is what has me stumped. My fear is that I will have to take the outboard off and adjust the cable there, as I learned from your series covering this system. Could it be possible that the out board adjustment between the top of the cable and the plate is off just enough to make forward almost fully engage since it may be adjust too far out? Any advice would be so helpful as the boat runs, sounds great and is ready for the water but I have run out of options as far as adjusting at ESA lingage. And I know that only based off the fact that even if I hand pull the cable as hard as I can, it only engages forward slightly. Thank you Michael!
I have adjusted the cables so that the propeller locks properly in forward and reverse but my shift interupt switch will not let me shift when the boat is running. HELP! Thank you
Thanks for the video, after hours of trying to get adjusted correctly i finally broke down and bought a new cable and prepared to swap it out. When i got the outdrive off I discovered that the bolt supposed to be secured in the indent on bell arm had backed out causing a bunch of play! Cleaned it up and set it with some blue loctite, now i can get to both gears just need to get the interupt working right. In a prior video you mentioned the nut behind the barrel was to back it up holding it securely in housing but in this video it looks like you have it back against the cable sheath I assume to lock that position. Which is correct?
Ah yes, it backs up against the cable. I was playing with it during the video and saw I had it against the trunnion on accident. A new cable will do wonders. Start from part 1 of the ESA series when you get the cable. I also have a cable replacement series too btw. Thanks!
Hey Mike I have a 1987 seaswirl with the 2.3l omc cobra 4 cylinder. I got the boat for free and got it running for the first time in 7 years. It was completely drained of all fluids and stored under a car port. Its in pretty mint condition for being so old. I added all new fluid and primed the fuel lines. She started up first few cranks no problem. In neutral idling it runs beautifully. If you manually move the throttle valve on side of the carb it revs up and sounds beautiful no stutter. As soon as I put the boat in gear either forward or reverse it starts to bog down and the propeller doesnt spin. It only spun once barely at full throttle. I've also noticed when boat is off whether its in neutral, forward, or reverse the propeller just free spins in either direction. Do you have any idea what could cause this or where to start.
@@michaelromer2016 I decided to finally take the outdrive off. Everything came off extremely easy. I found the rocker arm the shifter cable hooks up had a bunch of white corrosion from electrolysis and sitting so long. After cleaning it up the cable had full range. The corrosion wasn't allowing the rocker to engage the gears. Thank you for the quick response and all the videos theyre extremely helpful. The next question is for the cable replacement is there a difference between the original black cable and the new red cable they offer with a new gasket kit?
Can you give me the measurement of that tool from end to end on the engine bracket for the cable. I can’t get one for a few days and want to take the boat out this weekend. Thank you.
My 88omc will start fine in neutral but will not turn off, till I pull coil wire, shifts fine with engine not running ,but hard to get in reverse with the engine running
Hello I was out on the lake today . When I was going to take the boat out of the water . I went to bring the throttle back to the natural position it was tight and would not go in to natural then it finally did and my switch on the throttle for the out drive will not bring the out drive up or down its dead . Do you have any idea what could be the problem. The boat is a 1992 seaswirl spider 454 omc outdrive . Please help me out with any idea what to do to get the switch to work to bring the outdrive up or down thank you for any thing to help .
Hello Michael, It's me again, sorry but I have another question because I'm hoping to get this boat operational for the season. When you test for neutral, forward and reverse with your hand on the prop shaft, do you get a little backlash or play in the shaft? When I test mine, I have to turn slightly before it locks or stops in that direction. Isn't that normal? And when I shift to forward or reverse, I sometimes have to give the prop a slight twist before continuing with the shift lever. Is that because of the clutchdog and gears in the lower unit sitting still because of the engine not running? Hope you can answer all 5 questions for me and everyone else. Thanks again, Steve
Michael, To fix the forward gear not engaging, can you adjust the black trunnion while it is in forward gear, or do you have to do it while in neutral? Steve
Hi Sir, my cobra omc , cant reverse , when I turn to reverse it happen nothing, How can I do? Tomorrow I will do as what you said in video. Thank you so much!
Good job Michael, Mike, after when I am in forward my prop locks in the cc’s but spins free CW. The rev locks up but does not spin in eIther Direction is this correct Thanks
Thanks Michael for all the great info. One question about the interrupt switch. My boat is a 1990 Sunbird with an OMC Cobra 302. Instead of the single fixed cam on your boat that hits the interrupt switch that cancels the overstroke signal to the ESA in reverse only, mine has two adjustable cams that can hit the interrupt switch in either direction. That doesn't make sense to me since it would tend to cancel the overstroke switch in both directions, forward and reverse. Perhaps I am not thinking straight about how it works?
You are right on! Yea, some have that setup in both directions. Just remember when the interrupt is engaged on the engine bracket the overstock switch is not able to do anything (ESA will not stall the engine). Your ESA system is designed to work going into both forward and reverse. I recommend you configure reverse first (in the same way I did mine), then move into configuring forward. Keep your eye out on that engine bracket as it moves into both forward and reverse. Make sure you get a multimeter tester to help. The adjustments are going to be tedious. If you get frustrated, call it a day, and try again they next day.
@@michaelromer2016 hey, I have both direction Esa setup also. Read book and it says it's only for stalling when pulling out of gear. Took video...thinking it's not working quite right! photos.app.goo.gl/1kSy5EEUNALCF4yd9
Michael . I am troubleshooting my was switch assembly. I need a little clarification . I'm ohming out the switch with the arm on it. Not sure if that's called overtravel or what. I put the meter on the points you described and actuated the arm manually. I did not get continuity. This is a normally open switch? If that switch was broken and open it should not effect the ability to run engine in neutral correct? I'm having problem starting engine and wonder if this cindition would prevent the engine from running . in neutral in particular because that is the condition I am trying to get this engine running. Thx
Excellent Mike thank you... Question: When you are installing those cables into the black end fittings (with those square head set screws) Do you bury the cable end as far as it can go into the black pin connector sleeve then tighten up those square set screws..? Sorry I don't know what those end pieces are called... Thanks.. Arthur
Yes, press the cable in all the way, as far as it fill go. You are referring to the casing guide. The replaceable shift cable terminates inside the casing guide and is held in place by cable clamp, along with 2 set screws. The set screws come off first, exposing the cable clamp, with that removed, the casing guide comes off. The set screws are on both sides of the casing guide.
Michael, When you say "pull it back", do you mean shorten the brass cable with the black trunnion? Also, does that black trunnion run on the threads of the brass cable and the black trunnion spin in place? I'm asking because I can not find any manual which explains this in detail. Thanks, Steve
Hello and thank you or the videos, so I have the ESA blues I have test the switches and they are good, How exactly does the ESA wiring work in the manual it says purple/red and purple/ black to coil. Now I believe my original distributor was point/condenser some I believe converted it to electronic/ magnetic pickup so red from the distributor is also going to the coil. The engine will not stumble when shifting or manually making contact. Now I don’t believe I can test the module but I don’t want to drop the money on the module because I’m sure if you hook it up they won’t take it back. The module is a four wire connector do you have any suggestions. The engine runs great but of coarse shifting is a problem. Thank you Jason who just wants to go fishing
Hi Michael, This is a great series and still applicable today. However, my problem is with hard return to neutral from forward. I shift to Neutral, but it doesn't release. put just a little more pressure and it pops out. I think, from past years, the ESA engages during this operation, but not now. I just had the lower drive unit replaced this year. so I'm hoping its a cable adjustment? the bracket not rotating enough to enable the ESA function? Thanks, Doug
When you were doing the prop in "neutral" around 1:45 and you hear that ratcheting noise, isn't that the teeth on the verge of engaging, meaning that the sliding sleeve/dog clutch wasn't centered between gears
Good catch. For editing purposes, some of these videos were shot out of order, meaning complete adjustments weren't made in the order you watched them.
Hi sir, I have omc cobra 4.3 I come to test like you so forward is locked but reserve still spin like neutral. I adjusted the nut to put more pressure to reverse cable but it is the same. Can you help me please, how can I do now?
I just replaced my throttle cable on a 5.0 Volve Penta inboard. Forward & reverse work fine. But the neutral position runs the engine idle at a high rpm. I turn off the Motor shift the stick & it goes back to normal idle when started. This happens only when i shift between forward & reverse when motor is running.Whats my problem?
Disconnect the throttle cable from the carb. Run the RPM up two 2000 RPMs a few times to make sure your carb isn’t the issue. If the idle appears related to the carb., you need to rebuild it. I have videos on that. Let me know the results.
Any recommendations I have 1989 5.7L OMC Cobra. When it runs for couple of minutes it shots up and hard to start I noticed no spark on the coil and replaced the but no start. If I let cool it then crank right up.
Did you ever get your shift cable setup? I have to double check the length. Keep in mind I recommend using the OMC shift cable tool because simply measuring it won’t work. Please subscribe!
Hey, I have a similar issue than RL MC below. Mine is a 5.8L from 1989. When engine is off, or when engine is on but outside water, then everything seems fine. But when engine is on and in water, here is what happens : shifting from neutral to forwards works well, but if I try to go back to neutral, I never reach neutral i.e. when in vertical position it becomes super hard and remains in forward and so not possible to go to reverse. I need to switch off the engine to reach neutral. The same happens with reverse. Should I suspect the switch ? or anything else ? Help will be very much appreciated.
I’ve followed this whole series and my original problem was I boat my 4.3 omc last summer and the boat runs great. Only issue with it is it wants to stall out when shifting from N to F or R. I adjusted it center to center 6.5” but when I have it all the way in forward gear it measures 7.5 not 7.75. When I have it in forward gear should the prop be locked both ways or should it spin freely one direction and opposite when in reverse? My forward and reverse are locked in both directions. Thanks in advance!!!
Tyler, try and get someone to jump in the boat with you. Your gears working normally. Have them shift forward, neutral, reverse. Your ESA module, engages in reverse and forward gears. This means it's a little different than how the video shows -- the concept is still the same. You need to watch when the overstroke engages. I have the terminology backwards in the video but it's the switch that has the single button on it. The interruptor is important too, but the single button aka overstroke switch, is more important. Try that and get back with me.
Michael Romer since mine is designed to have esa in forward and reverse what should I be looking for the overstroke switch to do while I have someone shift into F and N and R? The previous owner of the boat had a new esa module in OMC box and I went ahead and swapped the old one for the new once since it was free.
@@TheWhitegirl7thst when the overstroke is pressed, ie, the single button, the interruptor won't stumble your motor. You want to start troubleshooting when it's not pressed. That means the interruptor can stumble your motor. Also, you need to watch the interruptor as you slowly put it into gear. The interruptor often moves and you won't catch it if you try to configure it with one person. The interruptor switch is the mechanism that triggers the stumble to occur. Watch the videos a few more times, just to get a handle on how esa works. Keep in mind, I call the interruptor, the overstroke, and vice versa.
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. However I have a 92 fourwinns and it has been good until I took it out to test it to sell it. it won't go into forward gear. your videos show all about the reverse, but not too much on the forward. I did the dry test, forward, prop locks in. but when I was in the water, I could shift to forward and nothing would happen. I could hear a rumble/not really grind...but like its about to go in...but wouldn't go in. then it finally did. I don't even now where to start but maybe the black plastic screw on the top linkage. it's screwed in all the way though. it looks like the cable has an adjustment toward the back of the shaft behind the black plastic adjustment screw. any ideas? thanks in advance!
Sorry to hear you are having issues. At 2:28, I show a really important step to verify. What it's there for is to see if you have any travel in the shift cable. If there is travel left in the cable you need to remove the travel, as I describe in the video. Same goes for reverse. If there is no travel and it still won't engage in the water, have a partner help you with this next step. While on the water, have someone steer while you work the shift cable. Disconnect the shift cable off the bracket and pull it all the way forward and keep holding it towards the front of the boat. Did it engage? How smooth was it? It is was a bad engagement, when trying it by hand, let me know. If problems still exist, I'd put it back on the trailer--there's another problem.
Michael I was given a 1987 vip with a 4.3l omc cobra stern drive. When shifting from neutral to forward it stalls out, unless you move it pretty quick. Same for reverse. What are your thoughts? Thx.
Hi mike , once again thanks for the time and effort taken for these videos they have been so handy. I have a stupid question. Would you happen to have any idea on why my shift cable guide tube keeps breaking when going into reverse? I've had to replace it 2 times already and when i do the dry test (go no go) it shifts good with no resistance but once in the water after 6 or 7 shift cycles the dam guide tube keeps breaking.
Hey Michael. Thanks again for these videos. Just a quick question. I've already done the shift cable adjustment using both special tools. I'm 100 % confident I have the correct length between the brass trunion and the end of the shift cable according to the shop manual. In your video you mention playing with the remote cable part of the shift system to take out play and to make sure the drive fully engages in fwd and rev. If you tighten that black trunnion like you mentioned, does that mess up the length for neutral that I previously set with the drive off and with the special tools? Same question for the forward and reverse. Thanks again
Trevor--The remote cable piece is specific to certain types of shifter cable manufactures. Think of the black trunnion as a fine tune adjustment. It's possible, you might not need to adjust it. The tools are there to create the needed pre-configured amount of throw, based on the shifter height in the stern drive. What that means is it allows you to have a baseline for the stern drive and the shifter cable inside. Once you make those minimum adjustments, leave them alone, and utilize the rest of the adjustments. You adjust what you need to get into forward, reverse, neutral.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try the next time I'm at my boat. Last trip I was have a hard time getting into forward gear. Sounded like a slight grind and just not catching it right. REV and neutral all worked great. I'll take your advice. Thanks for great detailed videos. I
Hi , my boat shifting verygood when the boat is out the starter water but wheni but it in the water i cant shift it easy from forward to back word and there is no natural. Plz help . My boat is bayliner omc cobra drive 1988 model .
Michael Romer I have changed the cables , the ESA and the shaftings control and i do exactly what u did in the video . Its shifting very good when the boat is out side the water even if i start it is no problems with shifting but when i but the boat in the water i cant shifting easy and there is no natural position only if i close the motor and shifting in top do i can put it in natural position then i start the motor and shifting reverse .
Hey Carlos! The shift cable tool along with the bellcrank tool are designed to set your cable in a precise position. It ends up being neutral. The position is required so that the ESA system will function properly. As you saw in the video, a 1/4 inch difference in shift rod height means the difference between going into gear and not.
Mike thanks for the videos, I need to re watch but my question is. 89 marlin omc cobra 2.3. First time I took it out the reverse worked then next time out, not engaging. Where should I start ?
Ok so I took your Advice with my last question and installed a new shift cable but I’m running into some issues. When I set it up with the tool to 6 1/2 inches I have to move the black cable forward so it will fit, but then it won’t go into gear at all. Mine is the 5.0 and the bracket is different in the fact that it doesn’t have the slider on the top like your does. Mine also does not have an Intermittent switch, only the overstroke switch. Not sure what to do
Kyle Griffin I’m going to post some things for you to check. Did you also align the bell crank at the same time as the shift cable? You would have had to use both these tools in the following link. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set
Your ESA works going in both forward and reverse by the way. Your red shift cable and it’s trunnion should not be adjusted outside the 6.5 measurement. @ 0.06 you have a bracket: Top holds the shifter remote cable. Bottom holds the red shift cable. The 6.5 only matters between red shift cable trunnion and the hole at the end of the shift cable. Now you notice you have an adjustment at the end of the shift cable. Remove the shift cable from the forward bracket, leaving the red shift cable trunnion in its pivot point. Manually push the cable all the way back until it locks in reverse. Then try and reconnect the red side cable to the forward most bracket. You may notice it won’t fit back on the lower bracket seen in your video at 0.06. Again, the remote shift cable bolts to the top, red shift cable to the bottom. If it won’t bolt into your bracket while manually keeping the cable in reverse, there’s something else wrong.
Hey buddy I have the same engine. And what happen is when the engine is on I put it in Forward there it goes, I try to put it in reverse and it’s super hard!!! I can not put it on reverse. I have to turn the engine off, put it on reverse and turn the engine on again. What it is? I don’t know what’s going on. Pls help me
This is typically shift cable related. There are many other variables. If this is a new issue, try the go, no-go test I talk about in this series. If it fails the go/no-go test, you have to take the stern drive off.
Great video, all 5 parts. Have a 92 four winns with the 5.8 liter. Started having trouble getting into reverse last trip out last year, tried adjusting first trip this year before watching your videos, mistake! Two questions; 1. My slide adjustment (7/16) is on the bottom shift cable not the top going to throttle, is that correct or does it matter? It is bottomed out to give the most force possible now. Is the measurement between trunion and cable end pin 6-1/2 on this model also? When i do that, no reverse at all.
I would follow my same directions just in reverse (since yours are flipped). Also manually make sure your reverse works by pulling it and confirm it engages. Sometimes you are actually battling a bad shift cable. Remember to not bottom out any one adjustment, it's more of a balancing act.
Question for you? when my boat is out of the water running on muffs it will go into gear and back into neutral no problem, but when I get it out on the water it has a hard time going back into neutral. When I put it in neutral some times it takes 10 to 15 secs to actually disengage the gear I would think that if it was one of the cables that it would happen all the time right! (1992 Four Winns 190 5.0 OMC)
So here’s the trick. Drop the fluid in the stern drive and check for metal. If no metal, you need to replace the shift cable. A lot of ppl have the same issue you reported and 99% of the time the cable is the problem.
Michael Romer so another thing. I measured mine in Neutral and it came in at 6 3/4, could this also be contributing to the problem. I’m planning on pulling the drive this winter to change the shift cable, bellows, and bearings but I saw in the video that it is supposed to be 6 1/2
I go from center to center on both parts you mentioned. For real though, buy the tools fit for $30. You will thank me later. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Thank you for all the videos! Great work. Before I go dumping more money into the boat and running in the dark… I have a 1988 Bayliner Capri 2.3 Volvo. The boat runs great except when I shift from neutral to forward or reverse. At which point it dies. Is this the cause of the lower shift cable? I look forward to hearing from you.
please help, for some reason my kill switch keeps activation in forward only! i dont get it. it doesnt do it everytime. just now and then for 5 or 10 mins. please help! lol thanks
I cant figure this out to save my life 😆 someone please help me. Ive adjusted the cables to spec and now i The perpeller wont lock if it does it locks both way with no natural smdh
Try pulling the cable manually and see if there is any resistance. Most try and tune an old cable and that won't work--the shift cable ought to be replaced.
Hello I have a OMC cobra front control apart and was looking for a picture/diagram/ video of the cable hookup for throttle etc. it is apart the control/shifter assy by the driver seat. I have had no luck. could you assist please. I like the video you presented.
Thanks Michael, Your videos have helped me a lot with my ‘92 OMC 5.0. My boat only has one interrupt switch though. There’s nothing on the internet about adjusting the swingle switch style. I even have a Seloc service manual for my year OMC COBRA 5.0 V8, and it only references the two switch style. You can see in the casting of the shift arm that it’s different from yours, and was not designed with the cam for the second switch. It appears to stay engaged once the boat is warmed up, which makes it run very rough and slow. Shouldn’t it be briefly engaging and then returning to the middle position on the interrupt switch lever? I made a short video. ua-cam.com/video/uELnkN7Q1gE/v-deo.html Thanks, Craig
Thanks thanks thanks. Wonderful and very knowledgeable videos. I have been working on boats for over 30 years and I am so happy that you are on the u-tube. Instead of relaying on Manuel and going thru them and not finding the answer, I look on u-tune for the answer.Again thanks.
Sal Lucido thanks for your wonderful comments! Please subscribe!!
Michael Romer I did today . Working on a ‘87 OMC with large Ford engine. I liked what you said about the spring on the shifter unit. He is having a problem. I will order one tomorrow. Thanks
Got the problem solved with the shifter .i needed more time to think it thru and more adjustments . Thanks
Me and my dad are working on a project boat and your videos have been invaluable. The boat is a 1988 Four Winns with an OMC 3.0. We have replaced the gimbal bearing, bellows, put a rebuild kit in the distributor and installed new spark plugs. We also overhauled the ESA system because one of the previous owners had the micro switches mounted in the wrong positions and over-torqued so that the interrupter switch plunger was stuck in. We've done extensive work on the shift cable and the ESA system following these videos. We tried starting the boat today and we are not getting spark when we try to start using the key ignition switch. Our neighbor came over and showed us how to run a jumper from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive on the coil and use a screwdriver to short terminals on the starter. The engine started right up and idled very nicely. When the jumper was pulled the engine died. What does this mean? Where should I focus my troubleshooting efforts? Could a faulty ESA module cause this behavior? Thank you so much.
Thanks for your comments Shawn. You can unplug the ESA module on the left manifold for testing. You might also have a bad solenoid. Keep in mind subscribers get first dibs on replies.
The solenoid gets its power from the solenoid and is activated with a signal from the key being on. Rather than running a wire from your battery to your solenoid. If you hit that subscribe button, I’ll make a video on it, just for you.
Newly discovered that the engine will continue to run after the jumper is pulled if the key ignition is turned on. I unplugging the ESA module but it did not remedy this no spark condition with the use of just key ignition switch. Interestingly though, once started with the jumper, the engine seems to get no response from triggering the overstroke switch even when the interrupter switch is not actuated. I ran all the continuity tests per your video and I can say the switches are good. That's why I believed that the spark problem bay be related to the ESA module.
@@michaelromer2016 subscribed, should have from day 1.
@@shawneric9111 dam i could use this swell this is exactly what I'm getting!!
Michael, This is Bryan. Your doing a great service to all us old OMC owners out here. Its tough keeping this old drive working, ours is a 1991. Ours was good until last year. We were out boating in the summer, engine warm, real hot day and unit wouldn't come out of forward without pulling way too hard. Throughout the rest of the summer it appeared my old ESA module was okay when cold but after heating up would not function anymore. I tested it by triggering the interupt switch on the W and there was no cut out effect. It always did hesitate the engine in the past. I purchased a 1999 New ESA module from my OMC dealer. Supposedly it has all the latest updates. So I installed the Newer ESA module last fall, then the engine wouldn't shift into forward without dieing out. Over winter I checked all the cables for smoothness. The shift cable to the outdrive was replaced 6 or 7 years ago. It was smooth and easy to pull also. I had the outdrive off the boat, the Neutral, Forward, and Reverse bar worked smoothly. I also took the gear shift lever assembly, cleaned and regreased it. Everything is super smooth. This spring I took boat to my OMC dealer and had him adjust the cables. He says they are all correct. Now it appears the new ESA module works going into forward, out of forward and reverse both ways, I don't think it did all of that in the past. The instructions with the ESA module say the module not longer looks at the overstroke switch only the interupt switch in the W. So my dealer thinks I may have to wire the overstroke switch in series with the interupt switch to achieve the shift performance I used to have. That way it would only allow the interupt switch at certain times. I'm debating this move. Right now the boat will shift without stalling about 3/4 of the time. Problem is when it stalls it is always at the worst possible time. Like pulling into a dock or loading on the trailer. I would appreciate your thoughts on the wiring change to include the overstroke switch.
Hey Bryan!
I thought about messing with the ESA wiring a few times myself and I've never gave in. I've seen people configure a momentary switch on the floor that they press to activate the overstroke switch manually. Basically, right before a shift, they mash the button. You can remove the interrupt switch and solder the wires together--seems like it could work, but I've never seen done like that. The overstoke switch would have to remain in the center of the W during normal operation to not stall--tricky.
As a quick reminder, the interrupt switch shouldn't trip the ESA system. It's purpose should be to disable the overstroke switch. The overstroke switch is suppose to activate your ESA system. Keep in mind that the interupt switch is a normally open switch and the overstroke is a normally closed. Your newer ESA module seems like a CDI version. www.marinepartssource.com/shift-assist-module-cdi-electronics-123-7878?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9LPYBRDSARIsAHL7J5lUxp8nPJFDuSdO0ZbKMr88Kpa27H-H7VxlyZadTRmyViQeV7StbDoaAha-EALw_wcB
Also try and revert back to a 1991 ESA module (0987876). www.ebay.com/itm/A1-0987876-987876-OMC-Cobra-5-0L-5-8L-Stern-Drive-Shift-Module-Kit/332603692016?epid=1230982070&hash=item4d70b993f0:g:dDYAAOSw2ylavk3P
Michael Romer, yeah I had my switch names mixed up, sorry about that. The positions I had right. The module I bought is an OMC part. If I cut wires I'll keep you posted.
I was going to leave the interrupt switch in place, just wire it in series with the over stroke switch. Then it seems as the shift lever is moved it will have its old function by opening the circuit and shutting off the over stroke switch like the old original module did. I've tried to attach a pic of the new ESA module schematic but I don't know how. Anyway it shows it only connects the wires from the over stroke switch to the module. The interrupt switch has no connection to the module at all. So I'm thinking trying the wiring next. If it don't work I can always put it back with solder and heat shrink.
Michael and all others following this new ESA module saga. This is Bryan. I reviewed the original non functioning ESA module wiring and connectors. The old module had the Overstroke switch in series with the Interupt switch by connecting the switches at the connector that connects from the module to the switches. The newer ESA module only had wiring to the Overstroke switch. Out of both modules there are only two wires going to the switches. So I spliced the old module's switch connection plug to the new module and tested it out. This worked, it is shifting like it used to. No more dying for no reason when shifting into Forward and coming back to Neutral. YEAH !!!! So the burning question is who designed this new ESA module to omit the Interupt switch, a serious mistake !!!!
Bryan.. This is exactly the situation I was trying to explain in a prior reply... My interrupter switch is essentially non-functional (even when activated by the bracket tab in forward) because only the overstroke switch is wired out of the 4 wire switch connector... 4 wires in from the 2 switches and only the overstroke switch is wired out... The other 2 wire pins have been removed from the connector and plugged... So essentially the overstroke switch is never disabled by the interrupter switch (meaning the overstroke switch is functional in both reverse & forward)... So I guess I'll give that series switch wiring a try (I have a 91 4 winns 5.8)... Thanks for posting Bryan.. Best.. Arthur... BTW Mike: Not wanting to be disagreeable but I believe the OS switch is called Normally Open (NO) because it makes continuity when pressed and the Interrupt switch is Normally Closed (NC) because it breaks continuity when pressed, at least that's the way it works on mine... Thanks again for all your time... I have to do your carb rebuild procedure next..!
Dude I don't know what I would do without you. I have learned so much from all your videos. Seriously so much! I think this may have gave me what I needed to know. We will see tomorrow 🤙
Thanks so much! You are so kind! I wish you the best! Post more comments if you run into issues! Thanks!
thank you because of your video i replaced the lower shift cable on a used boat i bought switched into neutral and reverse fine . foreword locked up cable came out of crimped end good thing i had another outer sleeve found the sweet spot on the upper cable . now it slide right into reverse neutral , reverse and foreword. THANK YOU
I've been anxiously waiting for the "final" step, THANK YOU SO MUCH! So, story with my "hole in the water i throw money in to" Old guy owned it, stored in a garage and so forth, boat is in like new condition. It wasn't running, he had put a new engine in and fell ill and passed away last year before he got it finished. I purchased the boat, got it running, thought the idle was too low, so I loosened the black trunion bolt and adjusted the trunion nut and tightened down the bolt. After that, running it in my shop, the idle was too high (I thought) so I adjusted the idle set screw (not the idle air mixture). seemed ok, so i threw it in the water, it was doing decent, but while idling through the harbor (no wake) it wouldn't come out of gear to neutral. Now, I'm confident enough (even though I work on cars for a living (23 years) boats are a whole other breed) to attempt the shift cable adjustment (ordered the tools and gasket kit along with a cable). Thank you again, and happy boating!
Thanks for your comments! Boats are something else aren't they! The shift cable replacement is a piece of cake--let me know how it works out. Check out your Gimbal bearing/engine alignment/bellows while you have the stern drive off. Have a good one!
This was an excellent series! I have 1990 sunbird Corsica 175 with a 3.0L OMC. I’m currently having issues with it going into reverse. It pops right into forward no problem but grinds when putting into reverse. I adjusted the both cables because it seemed they were out of adjustment and then tested out of water and worked great. Went to put it back in the water yesterday and it’s still grinding going into reverse. Definitely need some help figuring this out! Probably going to start from scratch and fine tune until it get it right.
Just purchased a 89 bayliner Capri stern drive 5.8L Cobra OCM. read and viewed many things about diagnosis and fix. Your channel and videos have been the most help fyi and thank you making them
Brought boat home hooked up ear muffs, started engine, 3 frost plugs were out, replaced them. Engine runs great.
Tested forward and reverse out of water with engine off. locks in forward and reverse. turned engine on and tried Forward and Reverse worked.
Put in water, would not engage reverse or forward... another boater advised pushing the lower cable manually to try and help engage (that the cables often go bad). with a little help it went in reverse, but trying to get it to forward it sounded like grinding gears, a little more force got it to engage while rocking the throttle shifter, engaged for a bit then popped out of gear, went back to dock and loaded up.
brought it home pulled the prop off and there were 2 black oval plastic pieces in the exhaust line which I removed and I thought that may have been the problem (pressing on the bell housing in video 2 limiting the shifter to the shift rod) I re assembled brought to the lake with the with the wife thinking I was a hero for fixing the newly acquired boat.
1st question the plastic ovals I am guessing are for preventing reverse waterflow??? and go in the exhaust system somewhere?
2nd when I brought the wife out I pulled the lower shift cable off to tried and manually engage into forward with pliers, it worked and got going forward almost planed before something slipped, then there was no feeling in the lower shift cable, felt as if it were broke. got towed to shore loaded and home. Then after more reading and Thankfully finding your videos do you think the shift cable was improperly installed and not adjusted correctly?
I ordered new cable, Jig, Seals, marine lube and new Gaskets...
763 645 9051 sean
dwrocker1 @ gmail dot com
The part that came out of the exhaust is talked about here: ua-cam.com/video/yjpl3yGEQoQ/v-deo.html
Hopefully two came out and not just 1.
Your shift cable is toast. That video is a two part series and is located here:
ua-cam.com/video/r7UXtcmhEVs/v-deo.html
Check for excess metal in the lower unit. If it has pieces of metal (big pieces) watch this video for how to fix that: ua-cam.com/video/sdjgHLuktrE/v-deo.html
Everything that can possible go wrong with your boat is already documented on my channel. I encourage you to get popcorn and watch everything I have that is OMC related. It will save you a headache in the future.
@@michaelromer2016 thank you. Yeah 2 came out, just saw the video of fixing them. Cable and rest of parts coming early next week.
Ill be watching your lower shift cable video again before i install new cable.
I haven't pulled prop apart again yet, ill be watching linked video before i do.
Thank you again. I want to send ya something for the help, ive learned so much from your videos.
Ill update when parts come in. Maybe ill document under novice youtube boat fix from professional video boat wizard.
I recently purchased a 1990 Seaswirl Striper 210 with an OMC 5.8 Cobra. On my first trip out I had some trouble grinding and hard shifting into reverse, and lunging back with too much throttle. We made some adjustments. It improved but felt like there was still some resistance. I felt like the next adjustment was working, although it could have been smoother. Lately, when I slide it into reverse (still hear a bit of the gear noise) it bogs down like it is overloaded, I move a foot and then dies. If I give it a bit more throttle, it acts like I am flooding the motor and may make it out of the launch. I spoke with the previous owner and he said that it worked fine for him when he used it. He made a comment that his mechanic said that it shifts a little hard going into reverse, not to be afraid of it, and gently force it in. That last part sounds intriguing to me maybe for a different activity, but not for launching around other boates. I have not yet put an oms meter on my ESA and cut off switch, but I know that the ESA does work from messing with it while running.
I had another issue with a high idle after cruising for a while and not being able to shift into neutral. My carb's secondaries were sticking, and when I would manually push them closed, I could get into neutral. I realized that there is a safety measure to prevent me from shifting at high RPM. I understand that part, but can not figure out my bogging in reverse?!? Can you offer me some advice?
I’d go after rebuilding the carbs for sure. I have a video on how to do it, it’s not too hard. Plus a video on how to tune it. I’m also hearing your ESA is working fine-that’s good. The problem here is you need to fine tune your reverse engagement. Bad thing is if you grind reverse too many times you have to watch my video in replacing the dog clutch/reverse gear. Do the manual go/no go test I outline in the video. You should have a solid reverse, forward, and neutral shift when shifting manually. You need to make sure your gears aren’t already damaged, plus you will be able to test your shift cable (watch my video on that by searching for it). Your year model likely uses ESA only in reverse too.
Just wanted to thank you your omc videos have been helpful
Thanks so much! I appreciate your comments.
It’ll be nice if you would make a video and fire up the engine and show how it should sound when the system is working properly. Having quite the struggle getting this right.
Will do. Thanks for your comments. Please subscribe.
Hoooold on there Bobbaloui , I noticed that when you first shift into Forward gear that the Detent does not return to the " V" notch on the shift selector , then after you check to see that the prop shaft won't turn and return to the bracket , the Detent is suddenly in the center of the shift selector !
I noticed this because , among other things , I have just replaced the TSC in my 1988 5.7 Cobra and after meticulous adjustment of cables by the book and with the OMC Jigs , my detent does not return to the " V " position and the outdrive hangs in gear for about a minute before letting go and shifting to neutral .
In addition , I cannot hear the engine slow or " pulse " when I activate the Detent on the interrupter switch , which is the one with the lever riding in the shift selector . Can you hear a discernible slowing of the engine when you engage the switch by hand ???
I have been fighting this problem for some time now and even replaced the switches to no avail .
You have an issue with the ESA module, if you manually press the interrupter and the boat doesn't slow/stall a little. This is regardless of the cable configuration by the way. Your first action needs to be to determine why the module at idle, won't slow/stall your engine a little when manually pressed. The next piece about the V notch position, that is covered in my ESA series. It isn't a must that the detent returns to the v position--mine only mechanically can interrupt the engine in one position. Look at how I show you how to check how yours will work and that will help you figure it out. Some ESA configurations interrupt going into forward and reverse--not all of them. Start from part 1 again and watch them over a few times.
So, I removed the throttle cable, backed the carb idle screw all the way out and then set it at around 500-550 rpm. Set the throttle cable in place with no tension on the cable. Boat started and ran great. Was out on the water for about 4 hours. As I was coming in to load up, the boat wouldn’t shift out of forward, unless I slammed it into reverse then back to the neutral position. I also noticed the idle had came up to 1000-1200 rpm... I set the idle on the muffs in my driveway, not sure if that is the proper way, since I don’t think it could fully warm up with the hose water since it’s a balmy 50-55 degrees.
Alright, so there is an alignment issue here. Something came loose. One thing that is hard to duplicate out of the water is the vacuum secondaries on the carburetor. When you slammed it into reverse, you probably opened up the secondaries and dumped a bunch of fuel into the carb (increasing the idle). The idle should have gone back down once in neutral. I'm not sure if we talked about this already, but the shift cable could have encountered a lot of drag as a result of age (it may need to be replaced). Not being able to pull out of forward can be attributed to the following: shift cable age, bell-crank damaged, shift rod is set to wrong height, low fluid in lower unit. If needed, go over the ESA walk through again.
@ michael
Thanks for this series, tryin to figure out some issues on my brother in laws boat. I don't have that 6.5" tool, can you be super specific as to where that 6.5" measurement starts (center of pin or wherever) to center of barrel adjuster nut (or wherever it ends). I have a feeling his issue lies here. If he tries to go into forward slowly, the interrupt tab on the lever doesn't quite get to the switch soon enough to actually interrupt the overthrow switch (tab is like 32nd of an inch away from interrupting), so the "w" moves throwing the overthrow lever, killing the engine. If he goes fast, it only cuts momentarily before the interrupt switch cut the overthrow switch out. Hope that makes sense. Anyways, this is a really nice series of videos, very thorough. Huge help for folks who know literally nothing about this type of system (I work on lots of things, but usually not boats) so thank you, really appreciated.
6.5 is the center of the pin to the center of the trunnion (barrel). It's a center to center adjustment. You really should set that for 6.5 and leave the shift cable alone. As I mentioned in the video, 6.5 is a requirement because that way it tunes the shift cable with the engine bracket. Now if you want to adjust something, looks at the upper black trunnion or the pivot bolt on the engine bracket. Also get a multi-meter, and listen to how-the overstroke/interrupter switch is work--just like I did. Also study your engine bracket like I did in the video series. Remember, the engine part of your issue is only 50% of the possible problem. There is only so much you can learn from that--meaning you may need to take the stern drive off. Keep up the questions and I will keep helping.
Michael Romer
Thanks for that info. Yeah I have a feeling I will be going over everything, starting with that stern drive measurement and going from there IF this doesn't work out. He's had it to at least two guys who told him it was golden, but as soon as he puts it in the water, it acts up (works well enough but certainly not correct). Possible they never took the time to start from the beginning (stern adjustment), so it's just not right at the top??? Who knows. My bro in law is taking boat out in couple days and doesn't have gaskets to reseal stern or time to get them before so doesn't want to open up stern till after trip. I would like to see it done correctly with my own eyes so I know what I'm working with, there is no question of what's doin down there. And yeah I've watched the whole series parts 1-5 (awesome), ill go back tomorrow and check that 6.5" measurement, start there, and adjust. If it doesn't work out, stern drive will have to get opened and ill start over from there. I'll be watchin again while I'm at it, checking my stuff against your video's. Somebody commented about how they work on cars n trucks n such, these boats are a different animal. They are right. I will definitely ask if I have more questions, thank you again and also thanks for the speedy response.
Michael Romer hi, my issue is 88 four Winn’s horizon 200 5.7. Previous owner installed a car electronic distributor. Took out for test run. Starts, shifts etc. kept stalling. Top end was real bad. Fires right back up? Mount bracket. Seams loose. Could these switch s be causing it or the distributor? He recommended a pertronix marine distributor . Any thoughts ? Thankyou .
Thanks for this series Michael- makes the system understandable. However, I still can't get mine working. I have 1987 twin 4.3's and have no idea how much is original or updated. The starboard unit seemed to perform as it should one I bought the boat. I noticed that the shift cable was loose in the slot so I tightened the nut and it doesn't work as well now. The magic 6.5" on this unit is 6.75". The port unit is adjusted to 6.5" but it is the one I have the most trouble with. At the dock, it shifts ok but doesn't seem to engage the sea system. Hand manipulation of the interrupt switch does trigger the engine to stumble, but shifting the lever doesn't always create any movement of the the "W". I take it out on the lake and try numerous manoeuvres and everything seems ok. The odd time, the engine goes into stumble and won't return to normal operation. The shift server appears to be stuck when this happens and only releases with a lot of pressure. Repeated manipulations of the shift lever will release the interrupt switch. Often when I bring the boat back to harbour after an hour or more, the port unit shift lever goes to reverse but the it doesn't go into gear and I'm stuck trying to dock with one engine. Really am baffled.
Here is the deal . If you have a 1987 shift cables still installed in the boat, it needs to be changed. They are known to wear out and what you just mentioned sounds like a shift cable issue. When you have the stern drives out, you will likely encounter other issues, all which I have fixes for on this channel.
Michael, I used the alignment tool for the bottom half with the bell crank and the alignment tool for the shift cable and trunnion 6.5 and that's spot on. I go in the first or forward and then it kind of gets stuck in won't shift to reverse and then I go to reverse and it gets stuck and it won't go to forward so it's like I'm stuck in either gear I have to detach the ESA module for it to work. I have to turn the engine off to change gears not ideal. so do you think I just need to do a little finer tuning or could it be some other problem like shift rod cable
Michael, a great series of videos, thanks. But how do I actually use the cable alignment tool? I bought it and found that if I pull the cable out completely it's impossible to get 6.5 inches, only if I push the black tube in, and spin the ball on the thread, then I get 6.5. SO... how much in or out the black tube has to be? King Cobra here, 1988, Bayliner 2655
I’ll make an actual video on this process soon. Stay tuned.
Hi, excellent videos, I replaced lower unit, I thought I put everything back where it belongs, I guess not, sometimes it shifts flawlessly other times it stalls. Both forward/reverse. Where should I attempt to adjust/ look at first.
How come I am not hearting the continuity tester when you go into forward? Looking at the way your bracket is when your in forward I would imagine the boat is stalling when in forward gear, or is this where that secondary "bypass" always on switch comes in, and we are really only want to interrupt the motor for reverse?
Just going through this on a four Winns with an omc cobra drive. out of interest we’re you running this with the conventional points/ contact distributor. Trying to go through the boat and get a reliable system as when we took the boat for its first outing the esa wasn’t connected and then spent the week using the assortment of spares before admitting defeat when the starter failed.
Hello. Great video. I have a 1992 omc cobra 3.0 ford engine. I am having trouble where it clunks into drive kinda hard. And then it is really hard to shift back to N. Also I do not notice the ESA activating a lower idle when it shifts.
Question is should it lower the idle when shifting into F and R? I am going to follow step by step on your videos to check it all out. Oh and also when it goes into drive sometimes it does not get into gear solid and will clunk clunk clunk till it locks in. I am guessing this is the shift arm adjustment issue or something. Any help would be great. I will get out with the multimeter and check the stuff in your videos to see if I can resolve it.
Thank you.
Mike these videos are helping me a lot. I have a 1987 Bayliner Contessa Command Bridge (fly bridge) cruiser with twin 5.0L OMC engines. Twin helms are giving me fits. I have the U-Line style controls and the old style shift bracket which only has the bottom slot adjustment. I just purchased the newer style brackets with the top slot adjustment for reverse. Since I have twin helms I need the linkage with a pin on each side since I have two of everything. The old one won’t simply go on the new bracket. Any ideas on where to find that part?
I also bought two new Chinese Morse controls to replace the u-line controls and am looking for some guidance on how to swap them out. Maybe none exists. Once I got them I became suspicious that they might not work in a dual helm since the U-line control has no positive neutral click. One person said just tack out the ball and spring for neutral. I decided to see if I can make the U-line controls behave first. I’ve had issues w UL because in reverse one engine will die but on the flybridge I can’t hear the engines well especially with any wind and I’m looking back to back into slip.
Do you have any one I can contact with experience to consult, or would you? I’m okay with paying for info but it’s hard to find people with experience enough to help me. I’m not new to this stuff but this one is tough. I just replaced a bad ESA so I hope that helps with the dying engine but I’m not in the water yet this season (Minnesota) and I want to do as much dry land adjusting as I can..
Trying to lay my hands on two OMC bulletins, #4022, and #4099. Also planning to take your suggestion on replacing the v springs, 0912686..
My email is bjjumbojet@gmail.com
I've got 5.0 cobra inboard having problems going to neutral from forward and reserve it feels like a tiny spot to hit without go into the opposite gear
I’m having a problem with forward shifting as you engage it into forward it goes in but once you give it more on the throttle it make a clunk noise like it’s jumping out of gear but my reverse works fine what do you think is the problem ???
it nice to have a guy like this save you a bunch money
Thanks for your comments! I have a bunch of new videos coming out. You will love them! Just an FYI, I'm dropping a 375HP motor in an OMC Cobra to see what it does. Keep an eye out for the new series soon.
You rock Michael. I have learned so much. I have a 93 omc cobra 351w and I am having issues with the motor revving up down. Upon start up it purrs but once I accelerate forward and then go back to neutral it starts revving. Is this s shift cable issue or any ideas. Thank you.
Disconnect the throttle cable and try to rev it without the cable. I bet you it revs fine. Likely a remote cable issue.
Hey Michael! Thank you for all the advice and encouragement btw!! I need some advice if you can spare some time? I have an 86 Sea Ray Seville with the omc cobra engine, 4 cylinder 3.0L. Reverse and neutral work great! Forward is giving me issues. Here's my big dilemma: even when sliding the shifter cable off of the pin sets and hand pulling the cable freely, as far as possible to the bow of the boat, forward gear feels like a half inch away from falling engaging!! It starts to engage into forward and just hardly spins the prop. I dont want to burn the dog clutch up or anything by doing this too often but this is what has me stumped. My fear is that I will have to take the outboard off and adjust the cable there, as I learned from your series covering this system. Could it be possible that the out board adjustment between the top of the cable and the plate is off just enough to make forward almost fully engage since it may be adjust too far out? Any advice would be so helpful as the boat runs, sounds great and is ready for the water but I have run out of options as far as adjusting at ESA lingage. And I know that only based off the fact that even if I hand pull the cable as hard as I can, it only engages forward slightly. Thank you Michael!
I have adjusted the cables so that the propeller locks properly in forward and reverse but my shift interupt switch will not let me shift when the boat is running. HELP!
Thank you
Thanks for the video, after hours of trying to get adjusted correctly i finally broke down and bought a new cable and prepared to swap it out. When i got the outdrive off I discovered that the bolt supposed to be secured in the indent on bell arm had backed out causing a bunch of play! Cleaned it up and set it with some blue loctite, now i can get to both gears just need to get the interupt working right. In a prior video you mentioned the nut behind the barrel was to back it up holding it securely in housing but in this video it looks like you have it back against the cable sheath I assume to lock that position. Which is correct?
Ah yes, it backs up against the cable. I was playing with it during the video and saw I had it against the trunnion on accident. A new cable will do wonders. Start from part 1 of the ESA series when you get the cable. I also have a cable replacement series too btw. Thanks!
Hey Mike I have a 1987 seaswirl with the 2.3l omc cobra 4 cylinder. I got the boat for free and got it running for the first time in 7 years. It was completely drained of all fluids and stored under a car port. Its in pretty mint condition for being so old. I added all new fluid and primed the fuel lines. She started up first few cranks no problem. In neutral idling it runs beautifully. If you manually move the throttle valve on side of the carb it revs up and sounds beautiful no stutter. As soon as I put the boat in gear either forward or reverse it starts to bog down and the propeller doesnt spin. It only spun once barely at full throttle. I've also noticed when boat is off whether its in neutral, forward, or reverse the propeller just free spins in either direction. Do you have any idea what could cause this or where to start.
It’s at least going to be a shift cable replacement. Do me a favor and watch the go/no go test I do in the video. Tell me if it passes or not.
@@michaelromer2016 I decided to finally take the outdrive off. Everything came off extremely easy. I found the rocker arm the shifter cable hooks up had a bunch of white corrosion from electrolysis and sitting so long. After cleaning it up the cable had full range. The corrosion wasn't allowing the rocker to engage the gears. Thank you for the quick response and all the videos theyre extremely helpful. The next question is for the cable replacement is there a difference between the original black cable and the new red cable they offer with a new gasket kit?
Can you give me the measurement of that tool from end to end on the engine bracket for the cable. I can’t get one for a few days and want to take the boat out this weekend. Thank you.
He said 6.5" from trunion to the pin hole, I'm assuming center to center.
My 88omc will start fine in neutral but will not turn off, till I pull coil wire, shifts fine with engine not running ,but hard to get in reverse with the engine running
Hello I was out on the lake today . When I was going to take the boat out of the water . I went to bring the throttle back to the natural position it was tight and would not go in to natural then it finally did and my switch on the throttle for the out drive will not bring the out drive up or down its dead . Do you have any idea what could be the problem. The boat is a 1992 seaswirl spider 454 omc outdrive . Please help me out with any idea what to do to get the switch to work to bring the outdrive up or down thank you for any thing to help .
Hello Michael,
It's me again, sorry but I have another question because I'm hoping to get this boat operational for the season. When you test for neutral, forward and reverse with your hand on the prop shaft, do you get a little backlash or play in the shaft? When I test mine, I have to turn slightly before it locks or stops in that direction. Isn't that normal? And when I shift to forward or reverse, I sometimes have to give the prop a slight twist before continuing with the shift lever. Is that because of the clutchdog and gears in the lower unit sitting still because of the engine not running?
Hope you can answer all 5 questions for me and everyone else.
Thanks again,
Steve
Michael,
To fix the forward gear not engaging, can you adjust the black trunnion while it is in forward gear, or do you have to do it while in neutral?
Steve
Hi Sir, my cobra omc , cant reverse , when I turn to reverse it happen nothing, How can I do? Tomorrow I will do as what you said in video.
Thank you so much!
Good job Michael,
Mike, after when I am in forward my prop locks in the cc’s but spins free CW. The rev locks up but does not spin in eIther Direction is this correct
Thanks
Thanks Mike! Would there be anything not allowing spark from the coil when engine cranks?
Thanks Michael for all the great info. One question about the interrupt switch. My boat is a 1990 Sunbird with an OMC Cobra 302. Instead of the single fixed cam on your boat that hits the interrupt switch that cancels the overstroke signal to the ESA in reverse only, mine has two adjustable cams that can hit the interrupt switch in either direction. That doesn't make sense to me since it would tend to cancel the overstroke switch in both directions, forward and reverse. Perhaps I am not thinking straight about how it works?
You are right on! Yea, some have that setup in both directions. Just remember when the interrupt is engaged on the engine bracket the overstock switch is not able to do anything (ESA will not stall the engine). Your ESA system is designed to work going into both forward and reverse. I recommend you configure reverse first (in the same way I did mine), then move into configuring forward. Keep your eye out on that engine bracket as it moves into both forward and reverse. Make sure you get a multimeter tester to help. The adjustments are going to be tedious. If you get frustrated, call it a day, and try again they next day.
@@michaelromer2016 hey, I have both direction Esa setup also. Read book and it says it's only for stalling when pulling out of gear. Took video...thinking it's not working quite right! photos.app.goo.gl/1kSy5EEUNALCF4yd9
Michael . I am troubleshooting my was switch assembly. I need a little clarification . I'm ohming out the switch with the arm on it. Not sure if that's called overtravel or what. I put the meter on the points you described and actuated the arm manually. I did not get continuity. This is a normally open switch? If that switch was broken and open it should not effect the ability to run engine in neutral correct? I'm having problem starting engine and wonder if this cindition would prevent the engine from running . in neutral in particular because that is the condition I am trying to get this engine running. Thx
Excellent Mike thank you... Question: When you are installing those cables into the black end fittings (with those square head set screws) Do you bury the cable end as far as it can go into the black pin connector sleeve then tighten up those square set screws..? Sorry I don't know what those end pieces are called... Thanks.. Arthur
Yes, press the cable in all the way, as far as it fill go. You are referring to the casing guide. The replaceable shift cable terminates inside the casing guide and is held in place by cable clamp, along with 2 set screws. The set screws come off first, exposing the cable clamp, with that removed, the casing guide comes off. The set screws are on both sides of the casing guide.
Thank you Michael. I will give that a try. As far as confirming any damage to the dog gear, is there a way to tell without tearing it open?
Try disconnecting the cable from the bracket, push the cable all the way in, and see if the pro spins workout noise counterclockwise.
Michael,
When you say "pull it back", do you mean shorten the brass cable with the black trunnion? Also, does that black trunnion run on the threads of the brass cable and the black trunnion spin in place? I'm asking because I can not find any manual which explains this in detail.
Thanks,
Steve
Hello and thank you or the videos, so I have the ESA blues I have test the switches and they are good, How exactly does the ESA wiring work in the manual it says purple/red and purple/ black to coil. Now I believe my original distributor was point/condenser some I believe converted it to electronic/ magnetic pickup so red from the distributor is also going to the coil. The engine will not stumble when shifting or manually making contact. Now I don’t believe I can test the module but I don’t want to drop the money on the module because I’m sure if you hook it up they won’t take it back. The module is a four wire connector do you have any suggestions. The engine runs great but of coarse shifting is a problem.
Thank you
Jason who just wants to go fishing
Hi Michael, This is a great series and still applicable today. However, my problem is with hard return to neutral from forward. I shift to Neutral, but it doesn't release. put just a little more pressure and it pops out. I think, from past years, the ESA engages during this operation, but not now. I just had the lower drive unit replaced this year. so I'm hoping its a cable adjustment? the bracket not rotating enough to enable the ESA function?
Thanks, Doug
When you were doing the prop in "neutral" around 1:45 and you hear that ratcheting noise, isn't that the teeth on the verge of engaging, meaning that the sliding sleeve/dog clutch wasn't centered between gears
Good catch. For editing purposes, some of these videos were shot out of order, meaning complete adjustments weren't made in the order you watched them.
Hi sir, I have omc cobra 4.3 I come to test like you so forward is locked but reserve still spin like neutral. I adjusted the nut to put more pressure to reverse cable but it is the same. Can you help me please, how can I do now?
I just replaced my throttle cable on a 5.0 Volve Penta inboard. Forward & reverse work fine. But the neutral position runs the engine idle at a high rpm. I turn off the Motor shift the stick & it goes back to normal idle when started. This happens only when i shift between forward & reverse when motor is running.Whats my problem?
Disconnect the throttle cable from the carb. Run the RPM up two 2000 RPMs a few times to make sure your carb isn’t the issue. If the idle appears related to the carb., you need to rebuild it. I have videos on that. Let me know the results.
Any recommendations I have 1989 5.7L OMC Cobra. When it runs for couple of minutes it shots up and hard to start I noticed no spark on the coil and replaced the but no start. If I let cool it then crank right up.
The cable trunyan has to be 6 and a 1/2 at what neutral??
Hi Michael thanks for the video it's been a real help. Question. Is the distance for the shift cable 6.5 for the 4.3 L and the 5.8?
It prop should not be clicking in neutral.. its a very fine line adjustment.
I have a 89 kayot deckboat with a omc cobra outdrive and it's not going into reverse
Hey Mike love the videos. I have an 87 OMC with 5.7 8. Shift cable tool I got with my shift cable says 6” not 6.5. Any thoughts?
Did you ever get your shift cable setup? I have to double check the length. Keep in mind I recommend using the OMC shift cable tool because simply measuring it won’t work. Please subscribe!
Hey, I have a similar issue than RL MC below. Mine is a 5.8L from 1989. When engine is off, or when engine is on but outside water, then everything seems fine. But when engine is on and in water, here is what happens : shifting from neutral to forwards works well, but if I try to go back to neutral, I never reach neutral i.e. when in vertical position it becomes super hard and remains in forward and so not possible to go to reverse. I need to switch off the engine to reach neutral. The same happens with reverse. Should I suspect the switch ? or anything else ? Help will be very much appreciated.
I imagine you got this one squared away already. Sounds a lot like a shift cable issue.
I’ve followed this whole series and my original problem was I boat my 4.3 omc last summer and the boat runs great. Only issue with it is it wants to stall out when shifting from N to F or R. I adjusted it center to center 6.5” but when I have it all the way in forward gear it measures 7.5 not 7.75. When I have it in forward gear should the prop be locked both ways or should it spin freely one direction and opposite when in reverse? My forward and reverse are locked in both directions. Thanks in advance!!!
Tyler, try and get someone to jump in the boat with you. Your gears working normally. Have them shift forward, neutral, reverse. Your ESA module, engages in reverse and forward gears. This means it's a little different than how the video shows -- the concept is still the same. You need to watch when the overstroke engages. I have the terminology backwards in the video but it's the switch that has the single button on it. The interruptor is important too, but the single button aka overstroke switch, is more important. Try that and get back with me.
Michael Romer since mine is designed to have esa in forward and reverse what should I be looking for the overstroke switch to do while I have someone shift into F and N and R? The previous owner of the boat had a new esa module in OMC box and I went ahead and swapped the old one for the new once since it was free.
@@TheWhitegirl7thst when the overstroke is pressed, ie, the single button, the interruptor won't stumble your motor. You want to start troubleshooting when it's not pressed. That means the interruptor can stumble your motor. Also, you need to watch the interruptor as you slowly put it into gear. The interruptor often moves and you won't catch it if you try to configure it with one person. The interruptor switch is the mechanism that triggers the stumble to occur. Watch the videos a few more times, just to get a handle on how esa works. Keep in mind, I call the interruptor, the overstroke, and vice versa.
Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. However I have a 92 fourwinns and it has been good until I took it out to test it to sell it. it won't go into forward gear. your videos show all about the reverse, but not too much on the forward. I did the dry test, forward, prop locks in. but when I was in the water, I could shift to forward and nothing would happen. I could hear a rumble/not really grind...but like its about to go in...but wouldn't go in. then it finally did. I don't even now where to start but maybe the black plastic screw on the top linkage. it's screwed in all the way though. it looks like the cable has an adjustment toward the back of the shaft behind the black plastic adjustment screw. any ideas? thanks in advance!
Sorry to hear you are having issues. At 2:28, I show a really important step to verify. What it's there for is to see if you have any travel in the shift cable. If there is travel left in the cable you need to remove the travel, as I describe in the video. Same goes for reverse. If there is no travel and it still won't engage in the water, have a partner help you with this next step. While on the water, have someone steer while you work the shift cable. Disconnect the shift cable off the bracket and pull it all the way forward and keep holding it towards the front of the boat. Did it engage? How smooth was it? It is was a bad engagement, when trying it by hand, let me know. If problems still exist, I'd put it back on the trailer--there's another problem.
Michael I was given a 1987 vip with a 4.3l omc cobra stern drive. When shifting from neutral to forward it stalls out, unless you move it pretty quick. Same for reverse. What are your thoughts? Thx.
How slow are you moving it from forward to reverse? Are you moving it at a reasonable speed?
Hi mike , once again thanks for the time and effort taken for these videos they have been so handy. I have a stupid question. Would you happen to have any idea on why my shift cable guide tube keeps breaking when going into reverse? I've had to replace it 2 times already and when i do the dry test (go no go) it shifts good with no resistance but once in the water after 6 or 7 shift cycles the dam guide tube keeps breaking.
Hey Michael. Thanks again for these videos. Just a quick question. I've already done the shift cable adjustment using both special tools. I'm 100 % confident I have the correct length between the brass trunion and the end of the shift cable according to the shop manual. In your video you mention playing with the remote cable part of the shift system to take out play and to make sure the drive fully engages in fwd and rev. If you tighten that black trunnion like you mentioned, does that mess up the length for neutral that I previously set with the drive off and with the special tools? Same question for the forward and reverse. Thanks again
Trevor--The remote cable piece is specific to certain types of shifter cable manufactures. Think of the black trunnion as a fine tune adjustment. It's possible, you might not need to adjust it. The tools are there to create the needed pre-configured amount of throw, based on the shifter height in the stern drive. What that means is it allows you to have a baseline for the stern drive and the shifter cable inside. Once you make those minimum adjustments, leave them alone, and utilize the rest of the adjustments. You adjust what you need to get into forward, reverse, neutral.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try the next time I'm at my boat. Last trip I was have a hard time getting into forward gear. Sounded like a slight grind and just not catching it right. REV and neutral all worked great. I'll take your advice. Thanks for great detailed videos. I
You ate a LIFE SAVER!!
Glad you like it! Please subscribe!
Would this apply to my OMC 5.7 Linkage? they look similar, Thanks
Correct, it would apply.
Hi , my boat shifting verygood when the boat is out the starter water but wheni but it in the water i cant shift it easy from forward to back word and there is no natural. Plz help . My boat is bayliner omc cobra drive 1988 model .
You likely have a shift cable problem. It needs to be replaced.
Michael Romer I have changed the cables , the ESA and the shaftings control and i do exactly what u did in the video . Its shifting very good when the boat is out side the water even if i start it is no problems with shifting but when i but the boat in the water i cant shifting easy and there is no natural position only if i close the motor and shifting in top do i can put it in natural position then i start the motor and shifting reverse .
Question... When using the shift cable tool, do you want the cable pushed in and the gear engaged, in neutral, or pulled out with the gear engaged?
Hey Carlos! The shift cable tool along with the bellcrank tool are designed to set your cable in a precise position. It ends up being neutral. The position is required so that the ESA system will function properly. As you saw in the video, a 1/4 inch difference in shift rod height means the difference between going into gear and not.
Mike thanks for the videos, I need to re watch but my question is. 89 marlin omc cobra 2.3. First time I took it out the reverse worked then next time out, not engaging. Where should I start ?
whats the reverse dimension ?. the forw was 7.75l. I didnt see you checking the reverse. isnt it important?
Check out 6:11 that is where I explain reverse.
What is the length for the king cobra without the tool. Thanks
Ok so I took your Advice with my last question and installed a new shift cable but I’m running into some issues. When I set it up with the tool to 6 1/2 inches I have to move the black cable forward so it will fit, but then it won’t go into gear at all. Mine is the 5.0 and the bracket is different in the fact that it doesn’t have the slider on the top like your does. Mine also does not have an Intermittent switch, only the overstroke switch. Not sure what to do
Kyle Griffin I’m going to post some things for you to check. Did you also align the bell crank at the same time as the shift cable? You would have had to use both these tools in the following link. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set
Kyle Griffin With the new shift cable, does your stern drive pass the go, no-go test from part 5?
Kyle Griffin what year is your boat?
Thanks for the reply I made a video to answer your questions better.
ua-cam.com/video/AXVkeVZtFP4/v-deo.html
Your ESA works going in both forward and reverse by the way. Your red shift cable and it’s trunnion should not be adjusted outside the 6.5 measurement. @ 0.06 you have a bracket: Top holds the shifter remote cable. Bottom holds the red shift cable. The 6.5 only matters between red shift cable trunnion and the hole at the end of the shift cable. Now you notice you have an adjustment at the end of the shift cable. Remove the shift cable from the forward bracket, leaving the red shift cable trunnion in its pivot point. Manually push the cable all the way back until it locks in reverse. Then try and reconnect the red side cable to the forward most bracket. You may notice it won’t fit back on the lower bracket seen in your video at 0.06. Again, the remote shift cable bolts to the top, red shift cable to the bottom. If it won’t bolt into your bracket while manually keeping the cable in reverse, there’s something else wrong.
Hey buddy I have the same engine.
And what happen is when the engine is on I put it in Forward there it goes, I try to put it in reverse and it’s super hard!!! I can not put it on reverse. I have to turn the engine off, put it on reverse and turn the engine on again.
What it is? I don’t know what’s going on.
Pls help me
This is typically shift cable related. There are many other variables. If this is a new issue, try the go, no-go test I talk about in this series. If it fails the go/no-go test, you have to take the stern drive off.
Great video, all 5 parts. Have a 92 four winns with the 5.8 liter. Started having trouble getting into reverse last trip out last year, tried adjusting first trip this year before watching your videos, mistake! Two questions; 1. My slide adjustment (7/16) is on the bottom shift cable not the top going to throttle, is that correct or does it matter? It is bottomed out to give the most force possible now. Is the measurement between trunion and cable end pin 6-1/2 on this model also? When i do that, no reverse at all.
I would follow my same directions just in reverse (since yours are flipped). Also manually make sure your reverse works by pulling it and confirm it engages. Sometimes you are actually battling a bad shift cable. Remember to not bottom out any one adjustment, it's more of a balancing act.
Question for you?
when my boat is out of the water running on muffs it will go into gear and back into neutral no problem, but when I get it out on the water it has a hard time going back into neutral. When I put it in neutral some times it takes 10 to 15 secs to actually disengage the gear
I would think that if it was one of the cables that it would happen all the time right!
(1992 Four Winns 190 5.0 OMC)
And just to clarify it has no problem on the water going into forward gear just when going from forward to neutral and from neutral to reverse
I bet you the shift cable is toast. In fact, when it’s in water, I’m sure the water gets in the cable and allows it to glide better-like WD40.
Michael Romer it’s actually worse on the lake and shift smooth on the muffs
So here’s the trick. Drop the fluid in the stern drive and check for metal. If no metal, you need to replace the shift cable. A lot of ppl have the same issue you reported and 99% of the time the cable is the problem.
Michael Romer so another thing. I measured mine in Neutral and it came in at 6 3/4, could this also be contributing to the problem. I’m planning on pulling the drive this winter to change the shift cable, bellows, and bearings but I saw in the video that it is supposed to be 6 1/2
Thank you for this video!
When you measure the length of the bottom rod, are you measuring from the front, center or back of trunion?
I go from center to center on both parts you mentioned. For real though, buy the tools fit for $30. You will thank me later. www.nlamarine.com/products/omc-cobra-shift-cable-adjustment-914017-915271-bellcrank-alignment-tool-set?variant=3737795589
Michael Romer thank you very much!!
anyone have this shift bracket or know where to get one?
Thank you for all the videos! Great work. Before I go dumping more money into the boat and running in the dark… I have a 1988 Bayliner Capri 2.3 Volvo. The boat runs great except when I shift from neutral to forward or reverse. At which point it dies. Is this the cause of the lower shift cable? I look forward to hearing from you.
2.3 omc is stuck in forward gear cannot get it to shift to neutral or reverse
Try the go, no go test in the video.
porque poniendolo bien , con el tiempo se desajusta?, desgaste de piezas?
La mayoría de las veces se corta el ajuste porque las piezas se desgastan con el tiempo. ¡Suscríbete!
please help, for some reason my kill switch keeps activation in forward only! i dont get it. it doesnt do it everytime. just now and then for 5 or 10 mins. please help! lol thanks
Hello! Please start with part 1 of this series and work your way to part 5. I cover the steps for troubleshooting in various videos. Please subscribe!
I cant figure this out to save my life 😆 someone please help me. Ive adjusted the cables to spec and now i
The perpeller wont lock if it does it locks both way with no natural smdh
Try pulling the cable manually and see if there is any resistance. Most try and tune an old cable and that won't work--the shift cable ought to be replaced.
como se llama la pieza sae 11171 y donde encontrarla? un saludo
How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html
where are you located i need mine done
Haha, I hear that! It's a pain but doable.
Thank you!!
Hello I have a OMC cobra front control apart and was looking for a picture/diagram/ video of the cable hookup for throttle etc. it is apart the control/shifter assy by the driver seat. I have had no luck. could you assist please. I like the video you presented.
Thanks Michael, Your videos have helped me a lot with my ‘92 OMC 5.0. My boat only has one interrupt switch though. There’s nothing on the internet about adjusting the swingle switch style. I even have a Seloc service manual for my year OMC COBRA 5.0 V8, and it only references the two switch style. You can see in the casting of the shift arm that it’s different from yours, and was not designed with the cam for the second switch. It appears to stay engaged once the boat is warmed up, which makes it run very rough and slow. Shouldn’t it be briefly engaging and then returning to the middle position on the interrupt switch lever? I made a short video.
ua-cam.com/video/uELnkN7Q1gE/v-deo.html
Thanks,
Craig
WRONG WRONG--this guy left out step one!