Thank you. I have had a shifting issue on my 79 Glastron CVX SS with 140 hp Mercruiser. You explanation of the throttle preload is brilliant, and will help solve my issue. I tip my hat to you sir!
Hi Ron! Thank you for all these videos! I am troubleshooting a problem on my 88 Prostar 190. I replaced dampener as old one cracked and springs broke. We then went to test drive and we were able to get the boat to go in reverse no problem, but in forward the boat would only engage into gear around 1500-2000rpm and once engaged in gear, the boat would move forward but slip in and out of gear repeatedly (still would move forward but was intermittent power loss). So, we attempted to disconnect velvet drive shift linkage and manually shift the transmission (this was during the next test drive, about 5 days after initial test drive). Now that we tried manually shifting the tranny, the boat does not engage in reverse nor forward at all now... Since it already went into gear previously, we were thinking it has something to do with the neutral safety switch or the gear shift throttle box button that allows for revving of the engine without the boat being in gear (this may be faulty?). We have yet to test pressure on the velvet drive, as I guess the problem could be the tranny pump? Or clutch packs? But since the boat was able to go into reverse totally fine previously, I doubt the pump has failed. I may be wrong. What is the main function of the neutral safety switch and the button on the throttle that allows for revving out of gear? Do these symptoms point towards those two switches/button being faulty? What are your thoughts? I can provide more info if needed. Thanks a lot - it is a 351w Ford and a 10-18-004 velvet drive. One other thing, the throttle shift lever at the front seat makes a click when going into reverse but no click when going into forward. Thanks Ron!
Sounds like a re-build or replacement is in your future. Neutral safety switch opens the circuit to energize the starter motor preventing starting in gear, if your boat starts your issue is not the switch. The button on the shifter only disengages the shift cable at the throttle to allow reving the engine without going into gear. If you are dis-connecting the shaft cable at the trans and shifting the trans lever by hand you have eliminated the shift control as a possible suspect. The only thing you didn't mention was trans fluid level, it must be correct. Assuming the oil level is good my guess is clutch plates or oil pump, either one warrants a re-build.
@@rontanis1024 thanks Ron for the quick reply! And Merry Christmas. So it is possible for the velvet drive to fail even if the dampener plate failed and broke first? I thought that the dampener failed before the transmission failed? This all happened at once when I was out skiing in the summer, terrible grinding and rattling noise coming from broken dampener. One other question regarding the ZF 45c you have listed on your UA-cam video, will it bolt up no problem to the Ford 351 bellhousing? I see that it was a Chevy engine in the instructional video. Are these ZF 45c something that you have in stock? Thanks!
@@neavemckinnon My guess is the damaged damper did additional damage to the trans, this is why I preach changing the damper asap when the "clinking noise" is heard. We have 1 or2 ZF-45s left, our next shipment is not due until May 2023, ZF is running way behind production since covid.
What an excellent video. I just took my shifter apart and thought "how does this thing work ?". Now I know. And also how to set it up correctly. Thank you.
Hi Ron, I have this control on my 1996 malibu sunsetter. Last time I used boat in forward gear, increase engine rpm to 1500 and throttle stays. Now when I take my hand off it goes back to idle. So wear has changed something, any ideas? Do you sell the brass barrels, if so what p/n. Great video!
Thank you for making this video. I have this shifter on my 1996 Sea Rayder F14 and i lost my reverse on it. The bucket wont drop. If I manually pull the bucket down and then shift forward it raises is. I am pulling the control tomorrow and this really helped me get an idea for what might be going on in there.
Thank you for this video Ron. Would you believe I have an MV2 fitted to my canal narrowboat over here in the UK, it's a rare beast on the British canals that's for sure, I've never seen another one! I've noticed the control is becoming very stiff when engaging forward or particularly reverse gear. I suspect a worn shift cable, which may still be the case, but I now think it's poor adjustment too having studied your video. The installation manual I have for the control is very poor at explaining how it all works. I'll be back to my boat at the end of next week and I'm looking forward to properly adjusting the control and fitting the new cable. I now feel a lot more confident.
AWESOME.. I have the same control on my 1985 S2 9.1 Sailboat for the Yanmar 2GM. It needs some help. Can these be completely rebuilt? The pullout "shift defeat" knob is stuck. It shifts and throttles up just fine though. Is there a more or less direct replacement? THANKS!!!
Hey! thank you very much!!! Ive been fighting my jet drive reverse for years. throttle comes on in reverse pretty much as soon as it's pulled. Now I know how its supposed to look1
Do you have any idea to adjust the throttle tension. My throttle will not hold its position when running, if I take my hand off the lever it goes back to idle. Bad news when going through rough water if you need a hand to adjust the trim tabs or something. Wants to put you through the windshield :( Thanks
I have a dual helm throttle only setup, shifter is seperate. The lower helm throttle works good on starboard side but from upper helm has about an inch of play before throttle responds changed upper cable still has play, do i need to secure the cable in a few spots along cable run to remove the play, been trying to fix this for years, port throttle works fine, any help is much appreciated.
WHen the throttle lever is in neutral you can pull the small button out and it disengages the shift arm allowing you to rev the engine while in neutral.
@@rontanis1024 I have a problem with that button , it pulls out ( very hard ) about 1/8 inch but does not disengage the shift arm. any thoughts, Thank you for any advice.
@@dickdykstra2234 Check to make sure the cables on the back side particularly the brass pivots are free and not jammed up, otherwise a control box tear-down is next, but be aware the Mfg. no longer makes replacement parts for parts inside the box available.
A question does the silver knob next to the throttle lever move in and out ,,,I have exactly this throttle gear control took it apart but cannot get the silver knob to push in or pullout ,,,this appears to be the only video of this control I can find but you don’t actually mention what this silver knob does if anything at all
Yes the knob ahead of the throttle is a transmission lock-out, when pulled out it will dis-engage the shift lever and allow you to "rev" the engine in neutral without going into gear, also used as a high idle warm up feature.
@@rontanis1024 so is there a position ie when the throttle lever is in the middle position that the button push pulls ie only in that position or can that be done at any position ,,,thx for the speedy reply by the way I spent a good few hours stripping and gear easing mine today,,,also the lever has a pull up feature on it to unlock it ,,,at what position would the throttle lock be used ,ie nuetral
Hello Ron, I have a Morse (mabe MV3) and the button to disengage the jet will not pull out in neutral (or any other position). Any advise on what it could be? Right now if you need to give it gas to start it it will take off in eighter forward or reverse. Thanks!
Hello, have a 1994 Malibu Skier. Has the same controller. The neutral button is extremely difficult to pull into neutral position. Can you provide same help on this issue? Hj
Great video - does the MV style control have adjustable friction? Mine tends to creep towards neutral at certain speeds like ~20-30 it doesn't stay put, above 30 it is enough degrees towards horizontal and it will stay put, below 20 and I think the return springs aren't pulling so hard. Any adjustment for that? I've seen clamps that bear on the throttle cable but that seems less elegant.
@@emhallad they sell a little clamp you put around the plastic cable housing then you snug up the bolt till it drags the cable a bit. Since my question I installed one. Don’t love it but it works. My perfect pass needs a good return spring so that’s the only real solution.
I'm experiencing same aggravating problem. Boat will not sustain speed as the throttle leaks off while on plane (Volvo FourWinns 22'). I've not torn into it yet to see if there is any friction adjustment/spring, etc. That slow speed leakage is impacting enjoyment.
Hey Ron. My in-laws' boat has this same throttle, but it's attached to a side panel that runs the full length of the boat. There is no way to drop it down like yours. Is there a way to separate the black outer trim piece from the inner body of the throttle?
If not a drop down design from the boat builder they typically use a slide in process, but there will be 3 screws used to hold the assembly in the panel, once the 3 screws or maybe machinescrews, place the throttle in reverse, pull and twist out the assemble dragging the cables with it, placing the throttle in Rev. will streamline the arms to fit through the opening. The mfg. of the control included a cut-out template for this and I know it is tight but a twisting motion is required to extract the assembly. I have never removed the back plate to install or remove a control.
@@rontanis1024 thanks so much for your response. I had the 3 screws out and the handle off, but didn’t want to break anything. I will try what you suggested. Thanks again
I have a similar shifter. I would like to have seen the cam housings. There are 2 routings in my cam housing and only one has a bush in it. I think the screw and bush for the inner routing has fallen out. Teleflex 300 I think and I cannot see a drawing of it or see a part listed.
Should the throttle stay in position if you let your hand off? Mine will immediately return to idle if I take pressure off. Acts like a car gas pedal, not sure if this is correct for a 91’ prostar
All boats have a throttle return spring some are stronger than others, some guys will remove them altogether to achieve a throttle that does not automatically return.
thanks for the explanation Ron. I was trying to understand whats going on with my own Morse controls which will engage reverse just fine, but not forward (although it revs the engine still). Looking at the gearbox end i can see it is moving the bar which selects forward or reverse (works in both directions but no drive). The odd thing is i have two helms and the Morse control on the lower helm works perfectly and engages the gearbox in both forward and reverse on those. The fact the faulty upper helm still engages reverse makes me think the cable must be connected and or not snapped, and because the lower helm works perfectly it cant be a fault with the gearbox (which was only taken away and reconditioned just over a year ago). Could you offer any pointers for me please?
Ron I have a 76 Donzi with Morse MV single lever duel action control. Warm up bob in center of lever/ shaft. It’s through bulkhead design. It’s a little bit tired like to replace it in-kind and use my original Donzi level I can’t seem to find one do you have any idea maybe you have one that I can purchase if so please reach out to me thank you PS your videos are excellent
Very good video! Thanks for that. Wish i knew what kind of throttle control is on my 1976 Crestliner Crusader 775. I just bought this boat as a project...The control is all pulled apart, and i have no clue what parts im missing to get it back together again.
I doubt it is like the one I dissected here, this was a Morse MV control used in virtually every inboard ski boat, if yours is a stern drive or outboard you probably have a control made by the eng. mfg.
Hi I bought a 1975 boat.I took this throttle control apart.Very nice video!On the front side:what is the use of this chrome push/pull button under the shifter ? Thank you.
I have a morse single engine with throttle and shift lever combo. Can I convert it to a single set up like shown in the video? If so what would that take and any advice?
@@rontanis1024 awesome. Thank you. I will go do the procedure you showed of pushing the spring load all the way back and adjusting the barrel to match to the hole. Thanks
Ron, I have the same throttle body, including the little trigger cup (terminology?) on the bottom side of the throttle handle. The problem is that there are no lockouts between forward and reverse and vice versa. I have to be careful not to throttle down, overshoot and end up in reverse. Any tips on that part of the throttle maintenance? Also, when running in intermediate speeds, when I take my hand off the throttle it pulls back on its own and decelerates. When it's running at faster speeds, the throttle handle will stay depressed and speed is constant. Repairable or dust bin?
SeaStar (current owners of the Morse throttle) does NOT make repair parts for this control any longer, they deem it unsafe for anyone to service this area of the control. their answer is to replace the whole throttle....Drives me crazy, When Morse made these I had exploded views of the throttle & ordered replacement parts as needed. OK. they do sell replacement knobs....Sorry.
Might be a little late for a response here, but my 96 F14 won't drop the reverse gate. I heard something "clink" in the shifter area and fall inside the wall of the hull. Any ideas? I'm thinking the cotter pin may have broken and it backed off the bracket.
I have the older Morse shifter without the lock-out mechanism. I’ve noticed the shift arms are not “square” with the shifter. In neutral, my shift arms are not “square” with the shifter body nor are they perpendicular with each other. I’m replacing the internal parts with later parts that will make it like yours in the video. Anybody know what the application was for the shifter I’m describing above?
Hello I have the remotes on the starboard side . How would I transfer the remote to port side or would I need a port side remote . Sorry for silly question but I’m refitting my wheel house . Thank you
My issue is my Morse shifter is stuck (at times ) in neutral and you cannot engage forward or reverse. It is absolutely locked in place. Can be a little unnerving (terrifying ) when docking. Any ideas would be appreciated
My sailboat inboard diesel (Universal m-18) has seperate throttle and gear levers. Recently they stopped functioning independently and now when I put it in gear, the throttle lever wants to go with it. Basically I have to use two hands on the controls - one hand to keep the throttle level low and the hand to put it in gear. I took it apart and tried to get some ATF in there to lube it up but it didnt work. Do you know if it is possible to service this ? Does the bushing need to be replaced or how do you recommend I go about trying to solve this? Here's a link of what it looks like: ua-cam.com/video/7s1mDIc46ww/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/_w0v96imt8Y/v-deo.html
Not familiar with that control, but I would look at the backside arms next to see what is going on there, may have a cable pivot about to break & is jamming against the other arm.
Hi Iv a very similar morse control . On the button pulled for neutral selection their is a spring that slides into a slot . My spring has nothing ie ball bearing resting against the crank of the pullout button . Should a bearing or something be fitted please . Thank you sw-uk. Just found out it’s the throttle control detent?? The spring is there but nothing against the cam . Tank you p
Great Video! When working on my 1988 advance, I found my throttle barrel was worn almost halfway through. Thank you, I would have never known.
Thank you. I have had a shifting issue on my 79 Glastron CVX SS with 140 hp Mercruiser. You explanation of the throttle preload is brilliant, and will help solve my issue. I tip my hat to you sir!
Great video. Really useful, clear, concise explanation. And no annoying music! Full marks. 😊
Hi Ron! Thank you for all these videos! I am troubleshooting a problem on my 88 Prostar 190. I replaced dampener as old one cracked and springs broke. We then went to test drive and we were able to get the boat to go in reverse no problem, but in forward the boat would only engage into gear around 1500-2000rpm and once engaged in gear, the boat would move forward but slip in and out of gear repeatedly (still would move forward but was intermittent power loss). So, we attempted to disconnect velvet drive shift linkage and manually shift the transmission (this was during the next test drive, about 5 days after initial test drive). Now that we tried manually shifting the tranny, the boat does not engage in reverse nor forward at all now... Since it already went into gear previously, we were thinking it has something to do with the neutral safety switch or the gear shift throttle box button that allows for revving of the engine without the boat being in gear (this may be faulty?). We have yet to test pressure on the velvet drive, as I guess the problem could be the tranny pump? Or clutch packs? But since the boat was able to go into reverse totally fine previously, I doubt the pump has failed. I may be wrong. What is the main function of the neutral safety switch and the button on the throttle that allows for revving out of gear? Do these symptoms point towards those two switches/button being faulty? What are your thoughts? I can provide more info if needed. Thanks a lot - it is a 351w Ford and a 10-18-004 velvet drive.
One other thing, the throttle shift lever at the front seat makes a click when going into reverse but no click when going into forward.
Thanks Ron!
Sounds like a re-build or replacement is in your future. Neutral safety switch opens the circuit to energize the starter motor preventing starting in gear, if your boat starts your issue is not the switch. The button on the shifter only disengages the shift cable at the throttle to allow reving the engine without going into gear. If you are dis-connecting the shaft cable at the trans and shifting the trans lever by hand you have eliminated the shift control as a possible suspect. The only thing you didn't mention was trans fluid level, it must be correct. Assuming the oil level is good my guess is clutch plates or oil pump, either one warrants a re-build.
@@rontanis1024 thanks Ron for the quick reply! And Merry Christmas.
So it is possible for the velvet drive to fail even if the dampener plate failed and broke first? I thought that the dampener failed before the transmission failed? This all happened at once when I was out skiing in the summer, terrible grinding and rattling noise coming from broken dampener.
One other question regarding the ZF 45c you have listed on your UA-cam video, will it bolt up no problem to the Ford 351 bellhousing? I see that it was a Chevy engine in the instructional video.
Are these ZF 45c something that you have in stock?
Thanks!
@@neavemckinnon My guess is the damaged damper did additional damage to the trans, this is why I preach changing the damper asap when the "clinking noise" is heard. We have 1 or2 ZF-45s left, our next shipment is not due until May 2023, ZF is running way behind production since covid.
@@rontanis1024 great thank you, I’ll take a look online and possibly place an order. What is the warranty/guarantee? Can it be returned if defective?
@@neavemckinnon 2 year ZF Warranty, any warranty claims are handled by their local service centers
What an excellent video. I just took my shifter apart and thought "how does this thing work ?". Now I know. And also how to set it up correctly. Thank you.
Excellent! Thanks! I took mine all apart before taking a picture or video and wasn't quite sure which way the cables hooked up.
Hi Ron, I have this control on my 1996 malibu sunsetter. Last time I used boat in forward gear, increase engine rpm to 1500 and throttle stays. Now when I take my hand off it goes back to idle.
So wear has changed something, any ideas? Do you sell the brass barrels, if so what p/n. Great video!
This amazing video saved me a big headache. Thank you very much!
Thank you for making this video. I have this shifter on my 1996 Sea Rayder F14 and i lost my reverse on it. The bucket wont drop. If I manually pull the bucket down and then shift forward it raises is. I am pulling the control tomorrow and this really helped me get an idea for what might be going on in there.
Now that was a great video well done
Awesome video. Thank you
Thank you for this video Ron. Would you believe I have an MV2 fitted to my canal narrowboat over here in the UK, it's a rare beast on the British canals that's for sure, I've never seen another one! I've noticed the control is becoming very stiff when engaging forward or particularly reverse gear. I suspect a worn shift cable, which may still be the case, but I now think it's poor adjustment too having studied your video. The installation manual I have for the control is very poor at explaining how it all works. I'll be back to my boat at the end of next week and I'm looking forward to properly adjusting the control and fitting the new cable. I now feel a lot more confident.
Excellent demonstration
AWESOME.. I have the same control on my 1985 S2 9.1 Sailboat for the Yanmar 2GM. It needs some help. Can these be completely rebuilt? The pullout "shift defeat" knob is stuck. It shifts and throttles up just fine though. Is there a more or less direct replacement? THANKS!!!
Hey! thank you very much!!! Ive been fighting my jet drive reverse for years. throttle comes on in reverse pretty much as soon as it's pulled. Now I know how its supposed to look1
Do you have any idea to adjust the throttle tension. My throttle will not hold its position when running, if I take my hand off the lever it goes back to idle. Bad news when going through rough water if you need a hand to adjust the trim tabs or something. Wants to put you through the windshield :( Thanks
Its the MV2. I could find nothing but wavy compression washers on the shift lever shaft. Stupid design :/
Great information, thanks for the video Ron! Any recommendation on the type of grease to use?
I always have trailer bearing grease around & have used that for years
@@rontanis1024 thanks!
I have a dual helm throttle only setup, shifter is seperate. The lower helm throttle works good on starboard side but from upper helm has about an inch of play before throttle responds changed upper cable still has play, do i need to secure the cable in a few spots along cable run to remove the play, been trying to fix this for years, port throttle works fine, any help is much appreciated.
can you explain how the engage disengage of shifter throttle works?
WHen the throttle lever is in neutral you can pull the small button out and it disengages the shift arm allowing you to rev the engine while in neutral.
@@rontanis1024 I have a problem with that button , it pulls out ( very hard ) about 1/8 inch but does not disengage the shift arm. any thoughts, Thank you for any advice.
@@dickdykstra2234 Check to make sure the cables on the back side particularly the brass pivots are free and not jammed up, otherwise a control box tear-down is next, but be aware the Mfg. no longer makes replacement parts for parts inside the box available.
@@rontanis1024 Ok thankyou Ron, will do.
A question does the silver knob next to the throttle lever move in and out ,,,I have exactly this throttle gear control took it apart but cannot get the silver knob to push in or pullout ,,,this appears to be the only video of this control I can find but you don’t actually mention what this silver knob does if anything at all
Yes the knob ahead of the throttle is a transmission lock-out, when pulled out it will dis-engage the shift lever and allow you to "rev" the engine in neutral without going into gear, also used as a high idle warm up feature.
@@rontanis1024 so is there a position ie when the throttle lever is in the middle position that the button push pulls ie only in that position or can that be done at any position ,,,thx for the speedy reply by the way I spent a good few hours stripping and gear easing mine today,,,also the lever has a pull up feature on it to unlock it ,,,at what position would the throttle lock be used ,ie nuetral
@@nigelwhybrow9257 Throttle must be in neutral to disengage shifter (pull the pin)
Hello Ron, I have a Morse (mabe MV3) and the button to disengage the jet will not pull out in neutral (or any other position). Any advise on what it could be? Right now if you need to give it gas to start it it will take off in eighter forward or reverse. Thanks!
Thanks for the video it was perfect and worked well :)
awesome!!! this is much more safe than electric systems!
Hello, have a 1994 Malibu Skier. Has the same controller. The neutral button is extremely difficult to pull into neutral position. Can you provide same help on this issue? Hj
Great video!!
Great video - does the MV style control have adjustable friction? Mine tends to creep towards neutral at certain speeds like ~20-30 it doesn't stay put, above 30 it is enough degrees towards horizontal and it will stay put, below 20 and I think the return springs aren't pulling so hard. Any adjustment for that? I've seen clamps that bear on the throttle cable but that seems less elegant.
no friction adjustment, the USCG would frown on that
Oddly they sell a throttle cable brake?
So how would one fix that issue?
@@emhallad they sell a little clamp you put around the plastic cable housing then you snug up the bolt till it drags the cable a bit. Since my question I installed one. Don’t love it but it works. My perfect pass needs a good return spring so that’s the only real solution.
I'm experiencing same aggravating problem. Boat will not sustain speed as the throttle leaks off while on plane (Volvo FourWinns 22'). I've not torn into it yet to see if there is any friction adjustment/spring, etc. That slow speed leakage is impacting enjoyment.
Great video I put my throttle cable in wrong I now know how to put it right so big thank you 😊
Glad we were able to help
Hey Ron. My in-laws' boat has this same throttle, but it's attached to a side panel that runs the full length of the boat. There is no way to drop it down like yours. Is there a way to separate the black outer trim piece from the inner body of the throttle?
If not a drop down design from the boat builder they typically use a slide in process, but there will be 3 screws used to hold the assembly in the panel, once the 3 screws or maybe machinescrews, place the throttle in reverse, pull and twist out the assemble dragging the cables with it, placing the throttle in Rev. will streamline the arms to fit through the opening. The mfg. of the control included a cut-out template for this and I know it is tight but a twisting motion is required to extract the assembly. I have never removed the back plate to install or remove a control.
@@rontanis1024 thanks so much for your response. I had the 3 screws out and the handle off, but didn’t want to break anything. I will try what you suggested. Thanks again
@@TheGingabredmane11 The handle stays on to remove so yuou can manipulate the arms as it squeezes out.
I have a similar shifter. I would like to have seen the cam housings. There are 2 routings in my cam housing and only one has a bush in it. I think the screw and bush for the inner routing has fallen out. Teleflex 300 I think and I cannot see a drawing of it or see a part listed.
Should the throttle stay in position if you let your hand off? Mine will immediately return to idle if I take pressure off. Acts like a car gas pedal, not sure if this is correct for a 91’ prostar
All boats have a throttle return spring some are stronger than others, some guys will remove them altogether to achieve a throttle that does not automatically return.
thanks for the explanation Ron. I was trying to understand whats going on with my own Morse controls which will engage reverse just fine, but not forward (although it revs the engine still). Looking at the gearbox end i can see it is moving the bar which selects forward or reverse (works in both directions but no drive).
The odd thing is i have two helms and the Morse control on the lower helm works perfectly and engages the gearbox in both forward and reverse on those.
The fact the faulty upper helm still engages reverse makes me think the cable must be connected and or not snapped, and because the lower helm works perfectly it cant be a fault with the gearbox (which was only taken away and reconditioned just over a year ago).
Could you offer any pointers for me please?
Ron
I have a 76 Donzi with Morse MV single lever duel action control. Warm up bob in center of lever/ shaft. It’s through bulkhead design.
It’s a little bit tired like to replace it in-kind and use my original Donzi level I can’t seem to find one do you have any idea maybe you have one that I can purchase if so please reach out to me thank you PS your videos are excellent
The Mfg. no longer makes repair parts available, they will only sell new replacement controls , and right now they have been back-ordered for months
Very good video! Thanks for that.
Wish i knew what kind of throttle control is on my 1976 Crestliner Crusader 775. I just bought this boat as a project...The control is all pulled apart, and i have no clue what parts im missing to get it back together again.
I doubt it is like the one I dissected here, this was a Morse MV control used in virtually every inboard ski boat, if yours is a stern drive or outboard you probably have a control made by the eng. mfg.
Hi I bought a 1975 boat.I took this throttle control apart.Very nice video!On the front side:what is the use of this chrome push/pull button under the shifter ? Thank you.
Disengages the shift arm so yo can rev the engine in neutral.
I have a morse single engine with throttle and shift lever combo. Can I convert it to a single set up like shown in the video? If so what would that take and any advice?
really depends on the transmission/outdrive, these work well with marine transmission like velvet drives, ZF but not so well with mercruiser outdrives
Really helpful, thanks
My mb sports boss 210 is engaging both at the same time. What would cause that to happen?
Incorrect throttle cable adjustment, the spring loaded "pre-load" block is not functioning due to cable adjustment is the likely cause
@@rontanis1024 awesome. Thank you. I will go do the procedure you showed of pushing the spring load all the way back and adjusting the barrel to match to the hole. Thanks
Ron, I have the same throttle body, including the little trigger cup (terminology?) on the bottom side of the throttle handle. The problem is that there are no lockouts between forward and reverse and vice versa. I have to be careful not to throttle down, overshoot and end up in reverse. Any tips on that part of the throttle maintenance? Also, when running in intermediate speeds, when I take my hand off the throttle it pulls back on its own and decelerates. When it's running at faster speeds, the throttle handle will stay depressed and speed is constant. Repairable or dust bin?
SeaStar (current owners of the Morse throttle) does NOT make repair parts for this control any longer, they deem it unsafe for anyone to service this area of the control. their answer is to replace the whole throttle....Drives me crazy, When Morse made these I had exploded views of the throttle & ordered replacement parts as needed. OK. they do sell replacement knobs....Sorry.
Might be a little late for a response here, but my 96 F14 won't drop the reverse gate. I heard something "clink" in the shifter area and fall inside the wall of the hull. Any ideas? I'm thinking the cotter pin may have broken and it backed off the bracket.
Probably snapped a worn cable end on the back side of the throttle : skiboatpartsonline.com/american-skier-cable-end-pivot?search=cable
Thanks for another great video.
I have the older Morse shifter without the lock-out mechanism. I’ve noticed the shift arms are not “square” with the shifter. In neutral, my shift arms are not “square” with the shifter body nor are they perpendicular with each other. I’m replacing the internal parts with later parts that will make it like yours in the video. Anybody know what the application was for the shifter I’m describing above?
Hello I have the remotes on the starboard side . How would I transfer the remote to port side or would I need a port side remote . Sorry for silly question but I’m refitting my wheel house . Thank you
Morse MV controls can be mounted port/stb side by connecting the cables on opposite ends of the arms to reverse.
My issue is my Morse shifter is stuck (at times ) in neutral and you cannot engage forward or reverse. It is absolutely locked in place. Can be a little unnerving (terrifying ) when docking. Any ideas would be appreciated
Complete teardown and rebuild or replace, you are describing an unsafe control, I would not operate that boat until it is resolved.
Thanks a lot! Really useful info there!
This is great Ron. Anyway, Do you know where I can buy this unit? Please send me a link. Thx
skiboatpartsonline.com/mv-3-control.html?search=mv
Thank you 👍👍👍🤩🤩🤩
thank you. this really helped.
My problem is that I cant get the motor too rev without the motor going into gear..any advice?
@Stuart McNair I figured it out bud,,thanks
Great easy to understand video.
Thanks
My sailboat inboard diesel (Universal m-18) has seperate throttle and gear levers. Recently they stopped functioning independently and now when I put it in gear, the throttle lever wants to go with it. Basically I have to use two hands on the controls - one hand to keep the throttle level low and the hand to put it in gear. I took it apart and tried to get some ATF in there to lube it up but it didnt work. Do you know if it is possible to service this ? Does the bushing need to be replaced or how do you recommend I go about trying to solve this? Here's a link of what it looks like:
ua-cam.com/video/7s1mDIc46ww/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/_w0v96imt8Y/v-deo.html
Not familiar with that control, but I would look at the backside arms next to see what is going on there, may have a cable pivot about to break & is jamming against the other arm.
Bad controller, cause a high idle
Hi Iv a very similar morse control . On the button pulled for neutral selection their is a spring that slides into a slot . My spring has nothing ie ball bearing resting against the crank of the pullout button . Should a bearing or something be fitted please . Thank you sw-uk. Just found out it’s the throttle control detent?? The spring is there but nothing against the cam . Tank you p