I have that one on the right @ 16:48. Do you have a video on that one? I bought it to test a 100 amp battery but it just came today so have not used it yet. The one I got from Amazon is identical but with the brand name of "MakerHawk"
I haven't done a vid for it yet, but I will prioritize it I first saw it on ProjectFarm. One of the key differences is that it allows for very fine control over the load with a simpler control structure of the knobs.
So, what’s the calibration standard used to ensure the power supply is putting out exactly 30 volts? Just because the power supply says 30.000 volts does not mean it’s correct, especially since the supply is set to its maximum limit. I would say the same thing for your 3 amp load. How do you know it’s 3 amps? What’s the reference?
@@jtechlabs1 Okay, so in your video you didn’t make mention of how you ensured your power supply and the other load were calibrated. This is really important for people to know before they start mucking with the calibration of the load they receive, as they may end up making the device less calibrated than the out-of-box calibration.
Voltage reference: Would it not make sense to first check the accurate 30V input at the terminals using a fairly accurate multimeter? Amp reference: How about using a precise resistor at the terminals to provide that 3Amp load ? The wires carrying the volts and the load to the terminals always has resistance and skew the values.
It's an interesting question. I measured the resistance of the leads from the power supply at 0.1 ohm. The load in that "circuit" is at best 1mA. So the voltage drop from the leads would be 0.1 mV (.0001V). For the purposes of this device that level of accuracy is likely fine. For the amp reference, you can use anything you want that will cause a 3A load, you don't need to use an electronic load like I did. You need to keep in mind that a 3 A load at 12V is going to generate a pretty good amount of heat (36W). Even at 5V a 3A load will generate a decent amount of heat (15W). You would need a higher power resistor to prevent the resistor from melting down. I have seen some people use a circuit with a light bulb and an ammeter in series and adjust the voltage until the meter reads 3A. A typical light bulb can handle that level of heat.
Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/HjY95-U7_4U/v-deo.html It shows a 12V battery. For a power bank you will likely have 5V and set the current to a typical load like 3A or 3.5A. I would suggest setting the cutoff voltage to 3V.
The unit comes calibrated from the factory. Calibration doesn't impact function, it impacts accuracy. For example suppose the voltage is off by 0.1V in a 5V test setup. That's 2% error. If you were calibrated the error would likely be closer to 0.02%
Hi Jim love the video. Not sure if anyone's ever mentioned it but you sound quite a lot like kermit the frog. If on your next video you could make a reference to miss piggy it'd make my day. 😂
so when you have bought one, you need to buy a 2nd to calibrate the first, but the 2nd one wont be calibrated so you need to buy a third, but the third wont be calibrated.... Maybe we just need to use the calibrate out socket to a 12v 55w car headlight bulb in series with a multimeter set to amps, then adjust input voltage to change brightness of bulb/meter reading for 3amps and press the set button..
I have that one on the right @ 16:48. Do you have a video on that one? I bought it to test a 100 amp battery but it just came today so have not used it yet. The one I got from Amazon is identical but with the brand name of "MakerHawk"
I haven't done a vid for it yet, but I will prioritize it I first saw it on ProjectFarm. One of the key differences is that it allows for very fine control over the load with a simpler control structure of the knobs.
What is the app this works with? I cant find one anywhere
Have you tried the pointers on the atorch website? There are instructions for both iOS and android. en.atorch.cn/Download.aspx?ClassID=11
I did a little more digging and I found this link that appears to lead to some PC software.
www.mediafire.com/folder/1c04afq923397/A3
Thanks i get the point but for dl24ew there is no dedicated port to plug the load. There is d, s etc. What are we gonna do?
Unfortunately, I don't have a DL24EW. I had a look at some product listings and they did not seem to have the same calibration option.
@@jtechlabs1 it is d for + and s for -
So, what’s the calibration standard used to ensure the power supply is putting out exactly 30 volts? Just because the power supply says 30.000 volts does not mean it’s correct, especially since the supply is set to its maximum limit.
I would say the same thing for your 3 amp load. How do you know it’s 3 amps? What’s the reference?
Yes, it is important to make sure that the references you use for calibration are accurate.
@@jtechlabs1 Okay, so in your video you didn’t make mention of how you ensured your power supply and the other load were calibrated. This is really important for people to know before they start mucking with the calibration of the load they receive, as they may end up making the device less calibrated than the out-of-box calibration.
I appreciate you pointing out the importance of good calibration. I will keep that in mind for future videos.
Voltage reference: Would it not make sense to first check the accurate 30V input at the terminals using a fairly accurate multimeter?
Amp reference: How about using a precise resistor at the terminals to provide that 3Amp load ?
The wires carrying the volts and the load to the terminals always has resistance and skew the values.
It's an interesting question. I measured the resistance of the leads from the power supply at 0.1 ohm. The load in that "circuit" is at best 1mA. So the voltage drop from the leads would be 0.1 mV (.0001V). For the purposes of this device that level of accuracy is likely fine.
For the amp reference, you can use anything you want that will cause a 3A load, you don't need to use an electronic load like I did. You need to keep in mind that a 3 A load at 12V is going to generate a pretty good amount of heat (36W). Even at 5V a 3A load will generate a decent amount of heat (15W). You would need a higher power resistor to prevent the resistor from melting down. I have seen some people use a circuit with a light bulb and an ammeter in series and adjust the voltage until the meter reads 3A. A typical light bulb can handle that level of heat.
how do i get it to work with a powerbannk
Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/HjY95-U7_4U/v-deo.html
It shows a 12V battery. For a power bank you will likely have 5V and set the current to a typical load like 3A or 3.5A. I would suggest setting the cutoff voltage to 3V.
Is that calibration absolutely necessary? To know if I cancel the order for DL24 or not, because I don't have the possibility to do those calibrations
The unit comes calibrated from the factory. Calibration doesn't impact function, it impacts accuracy. For example suppose the voltage is off by 0.1V in a 5V test setup. That's 2% error. If you were calibrated the error would likely be closer to 0.02%
@@jtechlabs1 THANKS!
❤❤❤
Hi Jim love the video. Not sure if anyone's ever mentioned it but you sound quite a lot like kermit the frog. If on your next video you could make a reference to miss piggy it'd make my day. 😂
Interesting!
so when you have bought one, you need to buy a 2nd to calibrate the first, but the 2nd one wont be calibrated so you need to buy a third, but the third wont be calibrated....
Maybe we just need to use the calibrate out socket to a 12v 55w car headlight bulb in series with a multimeter set to amps, then adjust input voltage to change brightness of bulb/meter reading for 3amps and press the set button..
You can absolutely use any known 3A load
You can simply short-circuit current output and use your power supply connected to the load's input to get 3A