No need for those thick wires for the sense wires as almost no current runs through them. Nothing theoretical about precision, the voltage measured by 4 wires takes into account the voltage drop in the wires making it a much more precise instrument. Standard in any pro power supply and any other equipment where precise measurements are required as voltage otherwise will depend on the current drawn, even risking overcharging battery/cells if wires are way to thin or faulty.
My unit only has one power button...have you covered this unit? It has a rheostat- seleactor knob w/ button as well. On the side it has VCC, GND, D, D, CV CV, S,S. Other theee sides of the fan read similar. How are those used?
Hi, have you ever meet UREG error message at your Atorch DL24? I staked into the problem with this message, as well, as my DL24 sensing 20 V input voltage, as "2.0V", not 20 Volts. Thank you in advance !
It could be that you triggered a voltage calibration. There are two options on the settings screen for voltage calibration, one for zero volts and one for 30 volts. For the zero volt calibration you need to disconnect all inputs and trigger the calibration for the 30V calibration you need to have a 30V reference voltage source and trigger the calibration. Let me know if you need more info.
@@jtechlabs1 Thanks a lot for support, much appreciated ! I’ll try to recalibrate this device, it’s not so simple, due to partially Chinese menus, but anyhow, you show me the way to dig for solution. Have a nice day !
@@jtechlabs1 Thank you a lot for information, I think, that you're totally right. I'll try to provide recalibration now, and will let you to know about the results. Thank you a lot for given support !
768 Watt Hours corresponds to 64 Amp Hours (@ 12 V). Manufacturers typically test based upon what is called a 20Hr capacity rating. That would use 5% of the Amp Hour rating. So that would be 3.2 A The cutoff voltage for 12V lead acid batteries is 10.5V If you want to run the test a little faster without too much loss in accuracy you could go to a 10 hour test so that would be 10% of the Ah rating and thus 6.4 A.
I think it serves two purposes during shipment. It holds the display tightly so it doesn't come loose from the board. It is also a bit of a buffer for the plastic clamshell and dampens contact between the clamshell and the surface of the display. The box gets banged around a lot on it's journey from China. You can see the damage inside the box from the battery holder.
It's a struggle to shorten but I will keep this in mind for future videos. This unit has so much functionality it took me six videos to get through all of it and I have had a suggestion for another one.
An idea might be to split videos to show a deep dive like this one, an unboxing, and an "example" video explaining in basic terms how to test a battery and why. I've currently got this video playing at 2x speed while typing, and I'm still able to follow.
So why don’t you talk about the results of the tests. How to compare the numbers you get vs what’s on the battery? How did you choose the amperage value? Does this affect the results on capacity? I don’t know the answers to these questions, so I am looking for some guidance. I am not being a pick.
Thanks for your question. The test methodology differs by battery technology. For AGM lead acid batteries like I showed in this video the capacity is usually rated based upon a 20 hour discharge. Or calculated differently an amp load of 5% (0.05) of total capacity should reach its cutoff voltage after 20 hours. For example with a 9 Ah battery, a 5% load is 0.45 A or 450mA. You would then run at that load until the battery voltage falls below the cutoff which for a sealed lead acid battery is 10.8 Volts. A higher load will hit the cutoff voltage faster and a lower load will take longer. Due to the chemistry involved a longer runtime will often allow more energy to be extracted before hitting the cutoff voltage. While the nominal rating for lead acid batteries is based upon a 20 hour discharge, manufacturer datasheets will show performance characteristics over several different discharge periods. The idea is to match the battery characteristics to the particular application.
Great answer. This would be a great subject for another video. I realize this was more of a how-to video on using this Atorch device, but your reply was especially helpful to me. Thanks!
Thank you, good practical tutorial
Thank you
No need for those thick wires for the sense wires as almost no current runs through them. Nothing theoretical about precision, the voltage measured by 4 wires takes into account the voltage drop in the wires making it a much more precise instrument. Standard in any pro power supply and any other equipment where precise measurements are required as voltage otherwise will depend on the current drawn, even risking overcharging battery/cells if wires are way to thin or faulty.
My unit only has one power button...have you covered this unit? It has a rheostat- seleactor knob w/ button as well. On the side it has VCC, GND, D, D, CV CV, S,S. Other theee sides of the fan read similar. How are those used?
Can you link to a photo? Where did you buy it? It would help me try to identify the controls.
Hi, have you ever meet UREG error message at your Atorch DL24? I staked into the problem with this message, as well, as my DL24 sensing 20 V input voltage, as "2.0V", not 20 Volts. Thank you in advance !
It could be that you triggered a voltage calibration. There are two options on the settings screen for voltage calibration, one for zero volts and one for 30 volts. For the zero volt calibration you need to disconnect all inputs and trigger the calibration for the 30V calibration you need to have a 30V reference voltage source and trigger the calibration. Let me know if you need more info.
@@jtechlabs1 Thanks a lot for support, much appreciated ! I’ll try to recalibrate this device, it’s not so simple, due to partially Chinese menus, but anyhow, you show me the way to dig for solution. Have a nice day !
@@jtechlabs1 Thank you a lot for information, I think, that you're totally right. I'll try to provide recalibration now, and will let you to know about the results. Thank you a lot for given support !
I just posted a video that shows how to calibrate the voltage and the current.
@@jtechlabs1 Thank you very much for such support, it's really valuable kind of help, you 're very kind !
If I’m testing my 768WH 12v power station for capacity, what CC in amps do I set it at and what cutoff voltage?
768 Watt Hours corresponds to 64 Amp Hours (@ 12 V). Manufacturers typically test based upon what is called a 20Hr capacity rating. That would use 5% of the Amp Hour rating. So that would be 3.2 A The cutoff voltage for 12V lead acid batteries is 10.5V
If you want to run the test a little faster without too much loss in accuracy you could go to a 10 hour test so that would be 10% of the Ah rating and thus 6.4 A.
Wondering why do they put that brown rubber on the unit? It seems to be usless 🤔
I think it serves two purposes during shipment. It holds the display tightly so it doesn't come loose from the board. It is also a bit of a buffer for the plastic clamshell and dampens contact between the clamshell and the surface of the display. The box gets banged around a lot on it's journey from China. You can see the damage inside the box from the battery holder.
@jtechlabs1 wow. Thanks 👍
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Great guide! Although it would have been good if it was a bit shorter
It's a struggle to shorten but I will keep this in mind for future videos.
This unit has so much functionality it took me six videos to get through all of it and I have had a suggestion for another one.
@@jtechlabs1 Ok, I understand. Just saying.
An idea might be to split videos to show a deep dive like this one, an unboxing, and an "example" video explaining in basic terms how to test a battery and why. I've currently got this video playing at 2x speed while typing, and I'm still able to follow.
@@ljadf Sounds good!
@@ljadf LOL. I guess I have slowed down. I used to be told I talk too fast. Thanks for your feedback.
10:00 we're ten minutes in and bro still hasn't hooked anything up LOL
@@goodcitizen4587 Thanks for watching
Aren't those USB plugs also used to test USB batteries (like a 10,000 mAh battery for example)
Yes, they are just connectors for any device to make it easier to connect to the test points.
So why don’t you talk about the results of the tests. How to compare the numbers you get vs what’s on the battery? How did you choose the amperage value? Does this affect the results on capacity?
I don’t know the answers to these questions, so I am looking for some guidance. I am not being a pick.
Thanks for your question.
The test methodology differs by battery technology.
For AGM lead acid batteries like I showed in this video the capacity is usually rated based upon a 20 hour discharge. Or calculated differently an amp load of 5% (0.05) of total capacity should reach its cutoff voltage after 20 hours. For example with a 9 Ah battery, a 5% load is 0.45 A or 450mA. You would then run at that load until the battery voltage falls below the cutoff which for a sealed lead acid battery is 10.8 Volts.
A higher load will hit the cutoff voltage faster and a lower load will take longer. Due to the chemistry involved a longer runtime will often allow more energy to be extracted before hitting the cutoff voltage.
While the nominal rating for lead acid batteries is based upon a 20 hour discharge, manufacturer datasheets will show performance characteristics over several different discharge periods. The idea is to match the battery characteristics to the particular application.
Great answer. This would be a great subject for another video. I realize this was more of a how-to video on using this Atorch device, but your reply was especially helpful to me. Thanks!
Maybe show us how some of these inflated 18650s or power banks can be tested?
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