JTech Labs
JTech Labs
  • 68
  • 91 876
Unboxing and Review of Uni-T UTi260B
The Uni-T UTi260B is a handheld thermal camera with a ton of features. It also includes a digital camera. In this video I will review and demonstrate all the features of the UTi260B.
Переглядів: 42

Відео

Unboxing and Review of Toptes PT-830S Combustible Gas Leak Detector
Переглядів 105День тому
Toptes has released this Combustible Gas Leak Detector Model PT-830S. It appears to a rebadged version of the UNI-T UT334L. It is designed to find leaks of dangerous explosive gases. In the video I go through the full set of features and I also try out the detector to assess its operation.
Aneng SZ02 / Victor FS2202 Intelligent Digital Multimeter Redux
Переглядів 14314 днів тому
Automatic (aka Intelligent) Digital Multimeters like the Victor FS2202 / Aneng SZ02 are appearing all over the place. There are a few different designs that are marketed under a variety of brand names. In this video I put one of these models through its paces and compare it against a Fluke 117 Multimeter. This video is a refresh of a video that I did about nine months ago when me technique was ...
Unboxing and Review NJTY T58C Digital Multimeter
Переглядів 22521 день тому
The NJTY T58C is a rare breed of handheld digital multimeter that includes inductance. In this video I go through the major features to help you assess whether you would be happy with this meter. This meter is in the same family as the Proster T58A, T58B and T58D.
Unboxing and Head to Head Review of Proster FS999L with Fluke 117
Переглядів 6721 день тому
Proster has put out this full frontal display smart multimeter model FS999L with a gorgeous display. Does the functionality live up to the fantastic appearance?
Andonstar AD409 Digital Microscope
Переглядів 6221 день тому
Most board level work on electronics these days is going to involve working with tiny SMD components. Soldering these with the naked eye is difficult. A Microscope of some kind can make the job a lot easier. In this video I unbox, assemble and run through the basic features of the Andonstar AD409, a digital microscope that is promoted for microsoldering among other things. As it turns out, ever...
How to Trace a Network Cable using a wire tracker
Переглядів 97Місяць тому
In this video I unbox a Noyafa NF-8509 Wire Tracking unit. I then go on to demonstrate how to use the network tracing and cable test features. I briefly touch on the multimeter functionality that is included.
How to build a Dim Bulb Current Limiter
Переглядів 83Місяць тому
Building a Dim Bulb Current Limiter is not very difficult or complicated. This video goes through the whole process: circuit design, description of the parts required, assembly, testing and an explanation of how it works.
How To Properly Charge 12V Lead Acid Batteries
Переглядів 196Місяць тому
Lead acid batteries are the most common type of battery around. They have been in use for over a hundred years. There are all kinds of different chargers out there but using the wrong charger can significantly shorten battery life. In this video I go through a full and proper charging cycle for a 12V lead acid battery. I use a simple 12V charger that does everything right. Along the way I highl...
Nexpeak NC201 / RJTianye Teardown
Переглядів 164Місяць тому
In a previous video ua-cam.com/video/6euJZxD_9vo/v-deo.html I reviewed the operation of the Nexpeak NC201 aka RJTianye Pulse Repair Battery Charger. I found that the charge current for small batteries and the charge voltage were higher than what I was expecting. In this video I have a look inside the unit to see if there is any opportunity to adjust the charge current and voltage to more conven...
Toptes CT-580 Carbon Monoxide Detector Unboxing and Review
Переглядів 2622 місяці тому
Carbon Monoxide can occur easily as the result of incomplete combustion. It is very dangerous and can be fatal. Unfortunately, carbon monoxide is odourless and colourless making it very hard to detect without the right tools. In this video I go through the features and functions of the Toptes CT-580 Carbon Monoxide Detector.
Tesmen TMM-569A Unboxing and Review
Переглядів 1372 місяці тому
Tesmen is a common brand of low price electronic test equipment available on Amazon. In this video I compare the Tesmen TMM-569A to the Fluke 117.
Unboxing and Review of Nexpeak NC201 Intelligent Pulse Repair Charger
Переглядів 2,8 тис.2 місяці тому
There are a few of these multistage chargers for 12V lead acid batteries sold under a variety of brands. They claim to be able to charge any 12V lead acid battery. They also claim to be able to breathe new life into a battery that no longer works very well. In this video I review the operation of one such charger from Nexpeak. RJTianye is the original manufacturer.
Unbox and review of MWXNE 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter.
Переглядів 5992 місяці тому
The MWXNE 2000 Watt Inverter (also sold under Joemnwart and Lcymw brands) claims to put out a pure sine wave. I will have a look at that in this video. I will also go over some inverter wiring aspects of note.
Unboxing and Review of Noyafa NF-562S Sound Level Meter
Переглядів 462 місяці тому
In this video I review the features of the Noyafa NF-562S Sound Level Meter. This meter helps to quantify how loud is loud. When you need some objective evidence, a sound level meter is the right tool for the job.
Neoteck NTK244 aka Vicimeter VC837 Multimeter
Переглядів 1543 місяці тому
Neoteck NTK244 aka Vicimeter VC837 Multimeter
Proster T58B Digital Multimeter
Переглядів 7683 місяці тому
Proster T58B Digital Multimeter
Honeywell HWT-H9 Eye Protection Desk Light
Переглядів 1553 місяці тому
Honeywell HWT-H9 Eye Protection Desk Light
Unboxing WiiM Pro Plus Network Music Streamer
Переглядів 1224 місяці тому
Unboxing WiiM Pro Plus Network Music Streamer
Fosi V3 Mono (Monoblock) Amplifier Unboxing
Переглядів 2254 місяці тому
Fosi V3 Mono (Monoblock) Amplifier Unboxing
Unboxing and review of Neoteck NTK231 / WT3122 aka Wintact WT3122 Electromagnetic Field (EMF) Tester
Переглядів 1174 місяці тому
Unboxing and review of Neoteck NTK231 / WT3122 aka Wintact WT3122 Electromagnetic Field (EMF) Tester
Tesmen TSM-192 aka Habotest HT93 aka Kaiweets KM201
Переглядів 1,3 тис.4 місяці тому
Tesmen TSM-192 aka Habotest HT93 aka Kaiweets KM201
Unbox and Review of Nasedal 268B Clamp Meter
Переглядів 6876 місяців тому
Unbox and Review of Nasedal 268B Clamp Meter
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Power Delivery Power Supply Testing
Переглядів 8397 місяців тому
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Power Delivery Power Supply Testing
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Basic Power Supply Testing
Переглядів 6427 місяців тому
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Basic Power Supply Testing
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Operating Modes
Переглядів 8457 місяців тому
ATORCH DL24 / DL24P Operating Modes
ATORCH DLP24P comparison to DL24
Переглядів 6868 місяців тому
ATORCH DLP24P comparison to DL24
ATORCH DL24 Configuration and Calibration
Переглядів 4,2 тис.8 місяців тому
ATORCH DL24 Configuration and Calibration
ATORCH DL24 Electronic Load / Capacity Tester Unboxing and Usage
Переглядів 6 тис.8 місяців тому
ATORCH DL24 Electronic Load / Capacity Tester Unboxing and Usage
Unboxing and Review of FNIRSI DMT-99 - Part 2 Advanced Features
Переглядів 1,1 тис.9 місяців тому
Unboxing and Review of FNIRSI DMT-99 - Part 2 Advanced Features

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @zoranel.eng.4182
    @zoranel.eng.4182 День тому

    Hi Jim, I have watched many videos on youtube regarding dl24 but your videos are the best. Detailed and clear, maybe a little longer than it should be, but never mind. After some time you bought a dl24p and you don't use the old one. Is dl24 or dl24p better and why. In one video you said that the dl24p is noisier. For tests around 5A, dl24 can also be used. I am asking for an answer. Best wishes.🤓

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 20 годин тому

      Thank you for your kind feedback. I try very hard to be brief, I will try harder. 🙂 From what I can tell the only difference between the two units is the larger heatsink / fan on the DL24P that lets it go to 180 Watts. I think I read somewhere that the board could go to several hundred watts with sufficient cooling. It may seem silly but I like the lighting effect on the DL24P. Another viewer has commented that the heat sink on the DL24P is not mounted very solidly and that is true. The heat sink on the DL24P can slide around a bit if pushed. The DL24 fan has a better heat sink mount approach. The noise on both units is purely from the fan and the the DL24P with the more elaborate cooling fins results in more air turbulence. Still, it's just air turbulence and the difference, while noticeable is still small in absolute terms. I hope that clarifies things. Let me know if you are wondering about anything else.

  • @xinhuawang5969
    @xinhuawang5969 День тому

    Do you have the video on the 20 hour testing? Thanks

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 День тому

      I have used the unit to do many 20 hour (0.05C) capacity tests on 12 V batteries. I have not made any videos of the full cycle because there hasn’t been much interest. There appears to be a newer model that includes some data logging and visualization of the full discharge cycle. I hope to be able to show how that works in the future.

    • @zoranel.eng.4182
      @zoranel.eng.4182 День тому

      @@jtechlabs1 You can record at first few minute and few minutes after 20 h with showing the result. And coment what is good and what is bad.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 6 годин тому

      Thanks for clarifying. I will keep this in mind for future videos. Perhaps a written explanation will help for now. When the load is engaged there is a voltage drop from the open circuit voltage of between 0.4 V to 0.8 V. The exact amount is dependent upon the type of item being tested. In my experience it's lower with batteries and higher with power supplies. When the cutoff voltage (or time) is reached the display switches to the "Complete" screen where it shows the cumulative totals. After dismissing that screen the system is in stop mode. For a power supply it's back to the open circuit state. For a battery the voltage will have risen from the cutoff voltage as the chemistry adjusts to the absence of a load. A little more runtime can be extracted from the battery, but it will drop to the cutoff voltage fairly quickly. Hope that helps.

  • @FDNY8231
    @FDNY8231 2 дні тому

    Thanks ... Very informative especially with the actual CO alert ...

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 2 дні тому

      You're welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful.

  • @tuck_3002
    @tuck_3002 3 дні тому

    Great in-depth review. Do you know if it checks crank power? My car battery failed the crank test at Autozone but is working fine so far.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 2 дні тому

      Thank you. This unit can only charge batteries, it does not have the ability to test and report on the state of health.

  • @archer1964
    @archer1964 3 дні тому

    👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💚💚💚👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

  • @wanderingandroid
    @wanderingandroid 4 дні тому

    would be really interesting to see how those MOTOPOWER chargers on amazon compare to the one in this video.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 4 дні тому

      Thanks for the suggestion. I will order one.

    • @wanderingandroid
      @wanderingandroid 3 дні тому

      @@jtechlabs1 they have a 800ma, 1000ma and 1.5ma in amazon all for under $20 right now. i dunno why anyone would want a charger as slow as 800ma. but it seems like most people are happy with the product. just curious what the performance of the product is especially the maintaining function.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 6 годин тому

      I am testing the 800mA now and plan to release the video on Friday.

    • @wanderingandroid
      @wanderingandroid 3 години тому

      @@jtechlabs1 that was quick... looking forward to it!

  • @pcsof33
    @pcsof33 5 днів тому

    Congratulations Dear, i have the same model it works great.

  • @Leo-gt1bx
    @Leo-gt1bx 9 днів тому

    Have you tried the ANENG A3008 and the BSIDE Z5?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 9 днів тому

      I have not tried either of these. Are you considering one of them?

  • @saiwinaung
    @saiwinaung 14 днів тому

    My Aneng SZ02 meter is also like your meter. In auto mode, everything works correctly, and everything is fine.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 14 днів тому

      Thanks for your feedback

  • @CBRN_Simplified
    @CBRN_Simplified 14 днів тому

    Appreciate explaining the different modes, specifically between Standard & AGM !!!

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 14 днів тому

      Happy to hear it was helpful.

  • @tbiowa9977
    @tbiowa9977 16 днів тому

    OK. So it comes with a ground wire. One end goes on the inverter and the other goes WHERE. If using in a house could I just connect it to the ground on a plug. Or just use a Ground Bonding Plug on one receptacle of the inverter?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 15 днів тому

      The ideal thing would be to connect the inverter to a grounding rod. If you have below ground copper pipes for your water service that is frequently a substitute for the grounding rod. In your home the ground wire on your plug should ultimately connect to your ground point. Connecting to the ground of a plug would work. My concern would be the labelling so that someone else that comes across your setup would understand what is going on. Out of your home you would need a metal rod that you drive into the ground or equivalent. I would not recommend the ground bonding plug. That's a total hack and can do unexpected things to the safety objectives of an electrical system.

  • @annad788
    @annad788 16 днів тому

    Bless you for making this video. How to open the battery compartment was eluding me. It is definitely something they should have put in the instruction manual. Again, thank you so much. Take care

  • @wiamshinewi8614
    @wiamshinewi8614 18 днів тому

    Thank you for the great way you described the stages of the battery process.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 18 днів тому

      Thank you. Glad it was helpful.

  • @kapurubanda6131
    @kapurubanda6131 20 днів тому

    Looks like my comment got flagged. At 11:26 isn't that the Diode mode? someone says "Manual selection works only on "mV" range, up to 599/999mV. " v=sG96MnlsBGI can you please verify that? TIA

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 20 днів тому

      Diode mode starts around 29:15.

    • @kapurubanda6131
      @kapurubanda6131 20 днів тому

      @@jtechlabs1 Thanks for the reply. I was talking about the manual voltage mode. that video id I mentioned talk about that issue. Isn't it limited to the mV range? when you check the voltage of the batteries at 11:26 (in manual mode) you were in the diode mode, correct?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 18 днів тому

      You have very sharp eyes and I just might need to redo this video. Yes it does appear that I was in diode mode when I took that measurement. By a total fluke because it was a AA cell it worked. I tried it with a 16V lithium ion pack and when I do that it jumps out of diode mode and goes to auto. And yes, the manual voltage mode is limited to the mV range

    • @kapurubanda6131
      @kapurubanda6131 18 днів тому

      @@jtechlabs1 That's probably because I was specifically looking for that the second time. Apparently, some DMMs can work up to a few volts in diode mode. Thanks for looking into it for me, and keep up the good work.

  • @LHM4000
    @LHM4000 21 день тому

    I wish you could have measured how accurate the 268B is with low DC current with the clamp.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 20 днів тому

      How low? I would be happy to do a quick test and convey my findings.

    • @LHM4000
      @LHM4000 20 днів тому

      @@jtechlabs1 Maybe start at 1mA and move up to 50mA doing a few in-between. Thanks. I'm trying to decide between the BSIDE ACM91, OWON CM2100B, this WINAPEX 268B, and maybe the HABOTEST HT208D. I'm not sure if the HT208D can read down very low DC current with the clamp.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 19 днів тому

      @LHM4000 I am not really well equipped for such low current ranges, but I did what I could. My load only operates down to a 10mA granularity. So I tried 10, 20 , 30, 40, 50 mA. I was impressed with the 268B as it generally matched what I was seeing on the power supply. It was very hard to tell at 10mA because the load was jumping all over the place. Once I got to 20mA I was happily surprised. I also have a HT208D that I tried because you mentioned it. The HT only has two digits of precision and generally the readings were way off (20 - 30 mA) I would not recommend the HT for those low currents.

    • @LHM4000
      @LHM4000 18 днів тому

      Thank you for testing it. After seeing other reviews and doing a lot of research I'm going to get the OWON CM2100B.

  • @ВалераШарага
    @ВалераШарага 21 день тому

    Hello! Thank you very much for the review of the NJTY-T58C multimeter🤝 I will be glad to see new reviews and comparisons of multimeters from you🎉👍🤝

  • @salalkhairaat8156
    @salalkhairaat8156 21 день тому

    Nice review, thx for sharing. btw, instead of purchasing a new untrustworthy dmm, why not get a used good quality one? Maybe you can evaluate second-hand good quality classic dmm and compare them with new ones at a same price; that may be fascinating?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 20 днів тому

      That's an interesting idea. Are there any classics that you would recommend? I would be concerned that a good classic might not perform as well as a modern classic.

  • @pcsof33
    @pcsof33 27 днів тому

    I have the same version it works great even when connected to HDMI TV's i really recommend it ☺️

    • @Alex-z3v1e
      @Alex-z3v1e 26 днів тому

      @@pcsof33 I am certainly going to order one, unfortunately I am in South Africa so with courier fees it will work out more expensive, but I think it is worth it.

  • @Alex-z3v1e
    @Alex-z3v1e 27 днів тому

    I am not sure about sodering, but am pretty sure it will work great for soldering.

  • @Alex-z3v1e
    @Alex-z3v1e 29 днів тому

    The history shows it correctly, history is exactly that. Your first measurement which is the oldest goes to the bottom of the pile while your last measurement which is the latest comes to the top.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 12 днів тому

      Thanks for your feedback, sorry for the delayed reply. The main take away is that the order is different. Different people have different expectations of history with some preferring reverse chronological order and some preferring chronological. It is more convenient to have the most recent measurements at the top because it reduces the need to page through the data. I think the design might still be a little better if the measurements were numbered to match that order. If I were undertaking an activity where I was tracking something with the history I would want it to show that my first measurement was #1 and my tenth as #10. With the current design the measurement history is effectively renumbered with every measurement.

  • @bobmcclements6275
    @bobmcclements6275 Місяць тому

    It would have been better for your AC and DC voltage measurements to have both meters in parallel also checking for zero with both the leads shorted together, and reversing the leads for DC measurements. For current measurements both meters should be in series and in series with your led load.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 29 днів тому

      @@bobmcclements6275 Yes, I am incorporating these suggestions into more current videos

  • @SviatoslavDanylenko
    @SviatoslavDanylenko Місяць тому

    Wondering why do they put that brown rubber on the unit? It seems to be usless 🤔

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      I think it serves two purposes during shipment. It holds the display tightly so it doesn't come loose from the board. It is also a bit of a buffer for the plastic clamshell and dampens contact between the clamshell and the surface of the display. The box gets banged around a lot on it's journey from China. You can see the damage inside the box from the battery holder.

    • @SviatoslavDanylenko
      @SviatoslavDanylenko Місяць тому

      @jtechlabs1 wow. Thanks 👍

  • @pcasucks2964
    @pcasucks2964 Місяць тому

    Surprised there's no comments on this vid , I just received a 3000 w unit and found this very informative. Thank you for the time and effort you put into it. So when you were explaining the ground, if I wanted to use this as an emergency power for my furnace I would have to run a ground from the inverter to my furnace ???

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      If you are using this to power your furnace in an emergency. 1. You need to make sure that you have disconnected your furnace from the household connection. When the power comes back on current The current will flow the other way back to the inverter and that can cause a dangerous situation. This disconnection will isolate your furnace from your household system. It will also mean that your furnace is isolated from your household ground. 2. The plug you use to connect your furnace to the inverter will already have a ground connection that will connect the furnace and the inverter assuming you are using a three prong connector. 3. With the furnace isolated from #1 and plugged into the inverter #2, you would still be missing a true connection to ground. What you would do is run the ground wire from the ground terminal on the inverter to something that runs to the earth. A common approach if you have copper plumbing would be to connect the ground wire to the plumbing. If you don't have copper pipes the other approach is to use a metal stake driven into the ground. Hope that helps

    • @pcasucks2964
      @pcasucks2964 Місяць тому

      @jtechlabs1 well thank you didn't expect such a quick response. My main concern was the ground . I'm waiting for a response from York asking if there is anything that would Hinder this from working. Again thank you reply.

  • @rogue3524
    @rogue3524 Місяць тому

    Thank you so much for sharing that. I didnt have manual of device, so that was super helpful. :)

  • @F16_viper_pilot
    @F16_viper_pilot Місяць тому

    So, what’s the calibration standard used to ensure the power supply is putting out exactly 30 volts? Just because the power supply says 30.000 volts does not mean it’s correct, especially since the supply is set to its maximum limit. I would say the same thing for your 3 amp load. How do you know it’s 3 amps? What’s the reference?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Yes, it is important to make sure that the references you use for calibration are accurate.

    • @F16_viper_pilot
      @F16_viper_pilot Місяць тому

      @@jtechlabs1 Okay, so in your video you didn’t make mention of how you ensured your power supply and the other load were calibrated. This is really important for people to know before they start mucking with the calibration of the load they receive, as they may end up making the device less calibrated than the out-of-box calibration.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      I appreciate you pointing out the importance of good calibration. I will keep that in mind for future videos.

  • @ВалераШарага
    @ВалераШарага Місяць тому

    Hello! I ask you to make a review of the NJTY T58C multimeter, maybe there is a difference between these multimeters! Thank you🤝

  • @nyesom
    @nyesom Місяць тому

    Good explanation by example. That okay. It doesn't have rj11 as it looks.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      It only supports RJ45

  • @jwbcsb822
    @jwbcsb822 Місяць тому

    My unit only has one power button...have you covered this unit? It has a rheostat- seleactor knob w/ button as well. On the side it has VCC, GND, D, D, CV CV, S,S. Other theee sides of the fan read similar. How are those used?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Can you link to a photo? Where did you buy it? It would help me try to identify the controls.

  • @armandine2
    @armandine2 Місяць тому

    i'm confused , you start the video to a backdrop of an oscilloscope and the sorcerer's apprentice - and ask "how can I figure out whether a capacitor is good or bad".

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Thanks for your feedback

  • @petittoto7433
    @petittoto7433 Місяць тому

    Thank you.

  • @ccwstraightshooter9761
    @ccwstraightshooter9761 Місяць тому

    If I’m testing my 768WH 12v power station for capacity, what CC in amps do I set it at and what cutoff voltage?

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      768 Watt Hours corresponds to 64 Amp Hours (@ 12 V). Manufacturers typically test based upon what is called a 20Hr capacity rating. That would use 5% of the Amp Hour rating. So that would be 3.2 A The cutoff voltage for 12V lead acid batteries is 10.5V If you want to run the test a little faster without too much loss in accuracy you could go to a 10 hour test so that would be 10% of the Ah rating and thus 6.4 A.

  • @fondbcn42
    @fondbcn42 Місяць тому

    Is it t-rms ?

  • @karim1485
    @karim1485 Місяць тому

    Great video! Did you ever try controlling your DL24 through the serial port and Python for say, automated testing? I tried using the "KrystianD/dl24-electronic-load" library you find on github when searching for "dl24 python library" online, but I have no success in running it reliably, I get timeouts all the time at completely random moments. Interested to hear if you have a better solution, Cheers!

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      I have not, however, there is a thread www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/atorch-dl24-electronic-load-software/ where people discuss the software produced for the DL24. Seems that even with the vendor software it is challenging.

  • @uni-byte
    @uni-byte Місяць тому

    I found continuity is just fine if you put it in continuity mode like you have to do with the Fluke.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Thanks for your feedback. I wasn't able to find a dedicated continuity mode on this meter.

    • @uni-byte
      @uni-byte Місяць тому

      @@jtechlabs1 Yeah, you're right. I was thinking of the average "auto" meter and forgot this one's limitations. Sorry about that.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      @@uni-byte Thanks for confirming.

  • @ottoolsen9560
    @ottoolsen9560 Місяць тому

    naa seems like crap, as many of theese are, i think i order the UNI-T UT117C more expensive but it is in a diffrent legue also

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 12 днів тому

      Thanks for your feedback. The Uni-T UT117C is absolutely a better meter. It is also 5x the price of this T58B. I am sure that you will be very happy with the 117C. Uni-T makes a broad range of equipment and the more expensive ones have a very good reputation. I just ordered a UT161E for a future video.

    • @ottoolsen9560
      @ottoolsen9560 11 днів тому

      @@jtechlabs1 the new mulitmeter is now sitting on my shelf. it is a nice multimeter for sure, fast and acurate, but im not overhappy with the display, it is kinda foggy, not as sharp as expected, and view angle could have been better. it is a miner issue, but still in a priserange as this they need to do better.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 11 днів тому

      @ I am sorry to hear that the display is not sharp. I agree it is not something in keeping with the price. Glad to hear that the performance is otherwise good.

  • @TheLittleBikeShop143
    @TheLittleBikeShop143 Місяць тому

    What is the app this works with? I cant find one anywhere

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Have you tried the pointers on the atorch website? There are instructions for both iOS and android. en.atorch.cn/Download.aspx?ClassID=11

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      I did a little more digging and I found this link that appears to lead to some PC software. www.mediafire.com/folder/1c04afq923397/A3

  • @archer1964
    @archer1964 Місяць тому

    👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💚💚💚💚👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇰🇼🇰🇼🇰🇼

  • @archer1964
    @archer1964 Місяць тому

    Like 👍🏽 +sub 💚💚💚

  • @archer1964
    @archer1964 Місяць тому

    💚💚👍🏽👍🏽👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇰🇼🇰🇼🇰🇼

  • @walterwhite1969
    @walterwhite1969 Місяць тому

    Excellent. I usually charge lead-acid batteries with a constant current/voltage source. In the first stage, I charge at the recommended voltage of 14.4V to 14.8V, depending on what the manufacturer recommends, but I usually leave it at a maximum of 10% of the nominal current, or even less, for large-capacity batteries. Then, when I notice a low current consumption, I move on to the float stage, which varies between 13.4 to 13.7V, depending on the manufacturer. I always choose a slow charge in order to maintain the maximum battery life. In situations where I have not used the batteries for some time, every three months, I try to maintain the float charge for a maximum of 0.1C, 12 hours or more, the time that I notice a low current consumption, of 100mA or 50mA, depending on the battery capacity. And this charger does most likely te same, but with more current, to 1.5A limit.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Yes, that's the way to do it. Battery University recommends topping up stored batteries when the open circuit voltage drops below 12.3 V

  • @monkeyzer0
    @monkeyzer0 Місяць тому

    Great video! Was going to open mine, but no need now!😂

  • @monkeyzer0
    @monkeyzer0 Місяць тому

    Thank you fort his. By far the best review and explanation of this charger!!!!

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Thank you very much for the feedback. My experience with this charger motivated me to produce a video illustrating how the process should work. I uploaded it about an hour ago. ua-cam.com/video/K2FslQ73dgo/v-deo.html

  • @GeorgeFL
    @GeorgeFL Місяць тому

    Thanks for the teardown 👍👍 Maybe you could have a look at the smaller 6A NC101 model too.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Thanks for the suggestion. I am not confident in the approach used by this unit and I paid out of pocket for it ☹️. Now planning to sell it. I am reluctant to purchase another such unit and will stick with the old tried and true trickle chargers for now.

    • @GeorgeFL
      @GeorgeFL Місяць тому

      @@jtechlabs1 Makes perfect sense!

  • @GeorgeFL
    @GeorgeFL Місяць тому

    Looks like an interesting piece of kit. Thanks for the nice review.

  • @GeorgeFL
    @GeorgeFL Місяць тому

    At last, some useful info that is not advertising BS. Thanks 👍👍

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      Thank you. Teardown video coming soon.

  • @peter2897
    @peter2897 2 місяці тому

    I suggest using some better quality probes. I have this multimeter and when I changed the probes the measurement speed increased.

  • @michaelholmes9999
    @michaelholmes9999 2 місяці тому

    How do you check for voltage

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 2 місяці тому

      AC Voltage measurement is at 12:30 and DC voltage measurement is at 14:10, Non-contact voltage detection is at 8:50

  • @albertpunzal3041
    @albertpunzal3041 2 місяці тому

    Kermit is that you? Thanks buddy.

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 Місяць тому

      I was going more for Fozzie.

  • @goodcitizen4587
    @goodcitizen4587 2 місяці тому

    10:00 we're ten minutes in and bro still hasn't hooked anything up LOL

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 2 місяці тому

      @@goodcitizen4587 Thanks for watching

  • @vincentandrunas6040
    @vincentandrunas6040 2 місяці тому

    Pretty nicely-done video--but a couple of suggestions: Since you're comparing the performance of two multimeters (the Proster and the Fluke), why not connect both meters to the voltage supply simultaneously (in parallel) when you're doing voltage measurements? Then you can see, in real time, how the readings compare--and fluctuations of the source voltage won't matter, since both meters will be seeing them simultaneously. (And you won't have to be switching two sets of probes back and forth...) You can do something similar with current measurements--but for that, of course, the two meters would be connected in series with the power source and resistance. Again, you'll see both multimeter's readings simultaneously, and any fluctuations will affect both of them in exactly the same way. Of course, you can't do this with resistance readings, since the meters are supplying the test voltage from their own internal sources. Also, I noticed that for several of the measurements you are allowing your fingers to contact both test probes simultaneously--so your body resistance becomes part of the circuit. While it would likely make little, if any, difference in the particular tests you were doing, it is certainly not good practice to allow your body to become part of the test circuit! Lastly, one of the important things about a multimeter is the range (or limit) of values it can measure. I was hoping your review would tell me the limits of such parameters as voltage, current, capacitance, and frequency that the multimeter is capable of measuring and displaying, but no mention was made of that (and I didn't see it in the manufacturer's literature, either).

    • @jtechlabs1
      @jtechlabs1 2 місяці тому

      Thank you for taking the time to provide this detailed feedback. I will see about incorporating these suggestions into future videos.