EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION ON HOW TO INSTALL !! Exactly the info I was looking for & ALL points covered clearly & concisely for correct install of 009 & SVDA. Glad I found this. I am now subscribed to the channel.
I'm re-building my 1915 and needed a refresher on the distributor gear and crank installation. It's my 12th motor but I am so glad I found this video to watch it AGAIN! You do a great job identifying each clue (gear flat, distributor hash mark, woodruff key slot) in detail to simplify getting it right. Thanks!!!
Fantastic video brother! Thank you so much for doing this one! This is going to save a lot of folks a lot of headaches! I appreciate this kind of instruction being out there for folks very much! Great job once again Jay!
Good tech tips always a point of question for folks rebuilding a vw motor ; never knew about the flat on the gear but all the motors I rebuilt and work on were 1600 dual ports. Like your video work and lighting was great nicely done Jason keep sharing these tech tips. We do not have Huston weather today in Iowa 58 mile high winds white out snow crazy outside today.
This was an amazing video, very detailed and extremely helpful, I’m at the exact stage of my rebuild and had a few head scratcher moments but this helped massively thanks and keep it up
@@JWClassicVW is the mailing address shown still the same Jason ? I'm sending you a Blessings in cash. You saved me soooooo much money and aggravation. I'm serious so please let me know even if it's a go fund me. Besides we're hometown boys I'm from Tomball Texas but I'm in Fort Worth Texas now I truly appreciate your video you really blessed this old man. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your family
@@charlesmartin7347 I appreciate you brother, it means everything just to help! If your looking to support the channel then yes the address is good. The best gift is to share the channel with others you think would benefit from the experiences that Goose and I have!! Spreading the word is as good as gold!
Good video...the chatter spring shim on the end of distributor drive could be a pain to keep on end of distributor drive if you decide to pull out distributor after motor is assembled..ive experienced the 180 out syndrome...back fire music...ive even lined up cam gears with foundry stamp instead of dot to dot...that gave be blast of air thru carb stacks..I felt bad going to vw shop to purchase vw for idiots catalog...but my mistakes made me a better engine builder....
great video. No matter how hard I try, the slot on my drive is always at a bit of an angle with the crankcase when the no1 cilinder is at tdc. Not straight as in ALL pictures. I tried different teeth on the gear (no flat side). I always end up at a slight angle. I have no timing mark (123ignition) on the distributor. Should I just ignore the angle and adjust the timing by rotating the distributor, or am I doing something wrong installing the drive? If the angle doesn't matter, what would be better. Point more towards the rear stud of the fuel pump or the front stud.
Question sir. Back in the late 70s, I was into Toyota’s. I built a couple of 20R engines. The cam gear could only go on the cam shaft one way. The first air cooled VW I built was a mild 1641 with a Eagle 110 cam with a straight cut gears. (I think?)After putting the hole thing together. I found that the timing was off. After reading the cam instructions, I discovered that it the bolt holes where symmetrical. The gear could be bolted three different ways, but only one was right. Why is that? Is that true with all aftermarket cams for VWs?
Yes this is true happen to me when helping my friend rebuild his motor, did not realize he bolted the cam gear on wrong . The motor was install in a sand rail easy to work on , we chased this issue way to long trying to find out why the motor would not run. I finally told we need to split the case so I can look at his cam sure enough that was the issue corrected it 1st try motor started right up.
Yes as Dan said the gear must be installed only one way. If your holding the gear with the timing mark in the 12 o'clock position the back lobe of the cam will be facing down.
@@terryfleming7084 it's for timing of the valves to the crank. This is the correct position where the lobe will be closing the intake vavle on compression stroke for number 1. Any other orientation would have the valves opening and closing at the wrong time.
I understand about timing, and why it has to be on the right way. The question is, why can the gear be put on wrong? Why can’t one of the holes be moved 2mm over so that there is only one way that the gear can fit the cam shaft? If it is for balance, the cam rotates 4 times slower than the crank, and a small movement shouldn’t hurt that.??? I know that the original stock from VW are riveted on, and they look like they are symmetrical. Does that have anything to do with it?
Hey Gary! Well that sounds like you either need to rebuild the distributor or even better pick up a new one. As for the shims you should be able to see them sitting below the distributor drive gear when removed. If they aren't there they may have either been removed (by mistake) or fell in the sump area.
My drive gear is 180 out, small half moon to the front. When i line roter and dimple at #1 the vac advance is hiting and wont allow the dietribter to be inserted. Any sugestions, thanks, Ken
Thanks for the reply, I have that handled, so I have it running but when I try to time it where it runs the best top dead center is close to the bottom. I have drove it and it backfires from #1&2 but I think I have other issues cuz I noticed oil at the exhaust on 1&2@@JWClassicVW
Hi, I just had a quick question. Do the pistons actually fire AT top dead center, or is it actually a little before? I thought I had seen another video where the timing is set to fire about 7 degrees before TDC. I'm pretty new to this! I'm trying to restore a 1972 VW Beetle. I'm not quite ready to worry about ignition timing yet (still have the engine apart!) but will hopefully be getting there soon.
Hello there and yes this is a good question... and I'm sure there will be tons more! As for timing of your engine most agree for a stock application 7 degrees advance is the norm. As far as building your engine and the physical location of your CAM to Crank for assembly they all go together roughly the same. The only real change that can be made when assembling an engine as far as timing in concerned would be with an adjustable CAM gear. These are often seen with straight cut cam gears where at the CAM to CAM gear you can either advance/retard/or 0 the timing. I've never done anything but 0 the timing here as I like to adjust the timing with the distributor. I run my timing at 30 degrees advance at 3000 RPMs, this works out to around 7 to 8 degrees of advance when at an idle of 800rpms. So timing is done at the distributor once the engine is assembled correctly.
@@JWClassicVW Ok, I think I understand now. This is just for the initial installation of the distributor, and then I would adjust the distributor so that it fires the ignition coil when the engine is about 7 degrees before TDC? (Static timing adjustment?) I understood about lining up the cam shaft and crankshaft with the timing marks, but I didn't know that the distributor drive shaft also had to be installed a certain way until now! I've been trying to do research to be sure I get everything right when I start to put the engine back together. Your video was a big help!
What kind of engine... sometimes you can rock the crank very slowly both directions to free the drive. How did it get stuck... the 40hp gear is different from a 1600. The gear is keyed and will only come out one way unlike the 1600 that isn't keyed.
It would just make it easier to get it back in place, the problem you could run into it damaging the gear in the crank... I know because I did... It still worked fine but when I built my 2276 I saw the damage I caused. Just take an easy when rocking the crank while pushing it back down... may be able to use the distributor to get in back in place.
How are you my brother? My name is Ali from Dubai. I follow you on UA-cam. Please help me find spare parts for the Focus Gene Beetle engine. I have an engine, but I need spare parts for the engine. If you can help, I am from Dubai.
EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION ON HOW TO INSTALL !! Exactly the info I was looking for & ALL points covered clearly & concisely for correct install of 009 & SVDA. Glad I found this. I am now subscribed to the channel.
Glad to hear the video was helpful
Hey your tech tip on installing the distributor drive in the case half has changed my engine builds ! ! It is so simple , GREAT tip .
I'm re-building my 1915 and needed a refresher on the distributor gear and crank installation. It's my 12th motor but I am so glad I found this video to watch it AGAIN! You do a great job identifying each clue (gear flat, distributor hash mark, woodruff key slot) in detail to simplify getting it right. Thanks!!!
That's awesome glad I could help.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I wrecked the distributor drive cog this weekend making my engine up. This was just what l needed to see.
Thank you 😅 for this
Your welcome, glad to help!
Fantastic video brother! Thank you so much for doing this one! This is going to save a lot of folks a lot of headaches! I appreciate this kind of instruction being out there for folks very much! Great job once again Jay!
Glad to help, it's always nice to hear that a video helped out.
Finally dist drive gear understood!, perfect video nice and clear viewing. Planing on biulding an engine here and learning so much brother thank you.
Thanks for the comment brother!! I'm glad you liked the video and I hope it helps with your build!!
Good tech tips always a point of question for folks rebuilding a vw motor ; never knew about the flat on the gear but all the motors I rebuilt and work on were 1600 dual ports. Like your video work and lighting was great nicely done Jason keep sharing these tech tips. We do not have Huston weather today in Iowa 58 mile high winds white out snow crazy outside today.
Just to let ya know I finally got to this comment...lol
Appreciate the support brother!
This was an amazing video, very detailed and extremely helpful, I’m at the exact stage of my rebuild and had a few head scratcher moments but this helped massively thanks and keep it up
That's awesome man glad it helped out.
You saved me with such a great explanation. Thank you!
That's awesome!! Glad I was able to help!
This video was awesome.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your family
Glad it was helpful! You have a great day!
@@JWClassicVW is the mailing address shown still the same Jason ? I'm sending you a Blessings in cash. You saved me soooooo much money and aggravation.
I'm serious so please let me know even if it's a go fund me.
Besides we're hometown boys I'm from Tomball Texas but I'm in Fort Worth Texas now I truly appreciate your video you really blessed this old man.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your family
@@charlesmartin7347 I appreciate you brother, it means everything just to help! If your looking to support the channel then yes the address is good. The best gift is to share the channel with others you think would benefit from the experiences that Goose and I have!! Spreading the word is as good as gold!
A whole new meaning to the phrase GOOSE IT....
lol...yup I thought that too
Outstanding video really informative
Thank you for the excellent description. I really appreciate it.
Glad it helped out!! Thanks for the comment and support.
Thanks so much for the great video. Just did mine today
Glad it helped
Excellent instruction. This is the best of several I've watched. Bookmarked for reference! Thanks.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful, I appreciate the support.
Excellent work. Thank you very much.
No problem if you have any issues just let me know, more than happy to help.
Best I seen brother.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good video...the chatter spring shim on the end of distributor drive could be a pain to keep on end of distributor drive if you decide to pull out distributor after motor is assembled..ive experienced the 180 out syndrome...back fire music...ive even lined up cam gears with foundry stamp instead of dot to dot...that gave be blast of air thru carb stacks..I felt bad going to vw shop to purchase vw for idiots catalog...but my mistakes made me a better engine builder....
I've totally done the 180 out as well... I think most probably have at some point. You can never have enough VW books! lol
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome! Glad you liked it!
I'm guessing it would be quite similar but have you done a video on the same subject for the 1600 Type 1?
No I haven't, very similar... the later distributor drive just goes in easier as it's not keyed the same way.
Very helpful thank you!
Glad I could help!!
Good video!
Glad you liked it!!
thanks for the info 😊
You bet!
Very informative!
Glad you liked it
Very good, it helps a lot
Thats great!! I'm glad it was useful for you.
great video. No matter how hard I try, the slot on my drive is always at a bit of an angle with the crankcase when the no1 cilinder is at tdc. Not straight as in ALL pictures. I tried different teeth on the gear (no flat side). I always end up at a slight angle. I have no timing mark (123ignition) on the distributor. Should I just ignore the angle and adjust the timing by rotating the distributor, or am I doing something wrong installing the drive? If the angle doesn't matter, what would be better. Point more towards the rear stud of the fuel pump or the front stud.
Angle doesn't need to be perfect, I normally go more to the fuel pump.
@@JWClassicVW great, tnx. I am now a bit more confident building up the engine. Great you responded to an older video 👍
Question sir. Back in the late 70s, I was into Toyota’s. I built a couple of 20R engines. The cam gear could only go on the cam shaft one way. The first air cooled VW I built was a mild 1641 with a Eagle 110 cam with a straight cut gears. (I think?)After putting the hole thing together. I found that the timing was off. After reading the cam instructions, I discovered that it the bolt holes where symmetrical. The gear could be bolted three different ways, but only one was right. Why is that? Is that true with all aftermarket cams for VWs?
Yes this is true happen to me when helping my friend rebuild his motor, did not realize he bolted the cam gear on wrong . The motor was install in a sand rail easy to work on , we chased this issue way to long trying to find out why the motor would not run. I finally told we need to split the case so I can look at his cam sure enough that was the issue corrected it 1st try motor started right up.
Yes as Dan said the gear must be installed only one way. If your holding the gear with the timing mark in the 12 o'clock position the back lobe of the cam will be facing down.
But why?
@@terryfleming7084 it's for timing of the valves to the crank. This is the correct position where the lobe will be closing the intake vavle on compression stroke for number 1. Any other orientation would have the valves opening and closing at the wrong time.
I understand about timing, and why it has to be on the right way. The question is, why can the gear be put on wrong? Why can’t one of the holes be moved 2mm over so that there is only one way that the gear can fit the cam shaft? If it is for balance, the cam rotates 4 times slower than the crank, and a small movement shouldn’t hurt that.???
I know that the original stock from VW are riveted on, and they look like they are symmetrical. Does that have anything to do with it?
I have a 1600 cc motor that I can lift the rotor and pull the bottom piece off the shaft that turns it not sure if shims are missing or what
Hey Gary! Well that sounds like you either need to rebuild the distributor or even better pick up a new one. As for the shims you should be able to see them sitting below the distributor drive gear when removed. If they aren't there they may have either been removed (by mistake) or fell in the sump area.
Thank you. 5 *****
Five 🌟
Thanks brother, glad you liked it!!
What does the little spring actually do. Its a very weak spring and seems useless to me ?
The spring maintains proper tension or load on the distributor drive gear, preventing excessive wear on the drive shims that are installed.
My drive gear is 180 out, small half moon to the front. When i line roter and dimple at #1 the vac advance is hiting and wont allow the dietribter to be inserted. Any sugestions, thanks, Ken
Hmmmm, that's a new one on me. I'd need to see it, maybe join the FB group and post some photos there. FB group is JW Classic VW
Thanks for the reply, I have that handled, so I have it running but when I try to time it where it runs the best top dead center is close to the bottom. I have drove it and it backfires from #1&2 but I think I have other issues cuz I noticed oil at the exhaust on 1&2@@JWClassicVW
Hi, I just had a quick question. Do the pistons actually fire AT top dead center, or is it actually a little before? I thought I had seen another video where the timing is set to fire about 7 degrees before TDC. I'm pretty new to this! I'm trying to restore a 1972 VW Beetle. I'm not quite ready to worry about ignition timing yet (still have the engine apart!) but will hopefully be getting there soon.
Hello there and yes this is a good question... and I'm sure there will be tons more! As for timing of your engine most agree for a stock application 7 degrees advance is the norm. As far as building your engine and the physical location of your CAM to Crank for assembly they all go together roughly the same. The only real change that can be made when assembling an engine as far as timing in concerned would be with an adjustable CAM gear. These are often seen with straight cut cam gears where at the CAM to CAM gear you can either advance/retard/or 0 the timing. I've never done anything but 0 the timing here as I like to adjust the timing with the distributor. I run my timing at 30 degrees advance at 3000 RPMs, this works out to around 7 to 8 degrees of advance when at an idle of 800rpms.
So timing is done at the distributor once the engine is assembled correctly.
@@JWClassicVW Ok, I think I understand now. This is just for the initial installation of the distributor, and then I would adjust the distributor so that it fires the ignition coil when the engine is about 7 degrees before TDC? (Static timing adjustment?) I understood about lining up the cam shaft and crankshaft with the timing marks, but I didn't know that the distributor drive shaft also had to be installed a certain way until now! I've been trying to do research to be sure I get everything right when I start to put the engine back together. Your video was a big help!
@@ct6502c The more info you have the better... super glad to help!
My distributor gear is stuck no turning what can I use to loosen it up?
What kind of engine... sometimes you can rock the crank very slowly both directions to free the drive. How did it get stuck... the 40hp gear is different from a 1600. The gear is keyed and will only come out one way unlike the 1600 that isn't keyed.
It's a vw1600
@@derickg3657 are you using the distributor drive tool to get it out or back in?
@@JWClassicVW no I don't have one I wasn't planning on taking it out
It would just make it easier to get it back in place, the problem you could run into it damaging the gear in the crank... I know because I did... It still worked fine but when I built my 2276 I saw the damage I caused. Just take an easy when rocking the crank while pushing it back down... may be able to use the distributor to get in back in place.
How are you my brother? My name is Ali from Dubai. I follow you on UA-cam. Please help me find spare parts for the Focus Gene Beetle engine. I have an engine, but I need spare parts for the engine. If you can help, I am from Dubai.
I don't sell or source parts... sorry
@@JWClassicVW Thanks for your reply bro