I have this exact model and I bought mine used (1 yrs old) for less then half of a new one. First year after buying it no issues was very happy with it. This second year I started noticing the surging and the more times I used it the worst it started getting until it surged, backed fired, and would almost die while I was mowing. I did notice going uphill made it worst. So looking into it I found anyone of the three elements (Spark, Air, Fuel) when not right would cause computer on these to start sending false signals causing this behavior. Here is what solved my problem: I cleaned the air filter but I didn't feel it was dirty enough to replace. Then I changed the fuel filter because the one I had was not see through so I couldn't tell if there was crud in it. There was not and fuel flowed with no problem. Then I pulled the spark plug. The spark plug had a lot of carbon build up on it. I took a wire brush to it and scrapped the points with a razor blade to ensure clean contact points. After this the engine ran like new for the next 2 hours to finish up my lawn. So why did the Spark Plug get carbon build up? My though is as the air filter gets dirty then the fuel starts running rich. So I gotta keep that air filter clean.
Have the same issue. Due to the piss poor intake system not handling fine dust , it sucks the fine dust in to the cylinder, which in turn scores the cylinder bore badly, allowing excess oil to reside in the bore & be burnt off; i am currently fighting the dealer as mine blows that much smoke, it is like a Mosquito fogger. $1520 AUD for a new 547cc engine, or $820 AUD- ish for a rebuild (but 12 week wait on parts). I will be building a proper dust seperator intake similar to that of a tractor once we sort the warranty out
Word to the wise on fuel. I acquired a LT42 from my elderly Father in Law a couple days ago. I knew it wasn't properly put away with Stabil or Seafoam. Did drain the old fuel, change filter and still wouldn't run. Went and drained the carb bowl and it smelled like bad gas so removed the carb and used cleaner to spray it all out. Still no luck. Ended up going through every possible nook and cranny three times before getting it running good. I've done snowmobile carbs dozens of times but this intellipower carb has so many more parts it was a tough find. Good news is it ran great finally and cuts like a dream. Treat your fuel before storing and consider adding a shutoff so you can drain it dry end of season.
I would certainly like to see what ends up being the fix on this machine. Not fond at all of a control module running the whole engine, but that the way the manufactures are going. Just have to try and keep up with the technology. Thanks for the information and great video Tom.
Have a similar problem however mine is going to high throttle and by itself drops to low throttle stays there, then jobs high for a short time then back to low
You got lucky. As a guy working on this it screams stupid design. Needlessly difficult to remove carb. Have to take the oil filter 8 plugs, 10 bolts off, or remove the intake from the head. A needlessly complicated carb, a junk computer. It's bad design plain and simple. You got lucky. Many many others haven't. Mowers failing at 10 hours 20 hours 30 hours is unacceptable. The parts are stupid and expensive. Congrats to you though.
I would like to know how to take the plastic shroud off that is mounted above the carb after you remove the air filter. I have removed one bolt and two screws and managed to move the lower plastic piece around but cannot remove it the rest of the way. I don't want to break anything. I just need a little guidance. It has the same setup as this mower as far as the air filter.
You need to take the three bolts off that hold the computer tray to the engine off. Squeeze the chips to remove the fuel line connectors remove the electrical plugs both sides and you should be able to remove the computer on its tray. Then take both the carb nuts off. Remove it as one piece. If you need to remove the carb simply remove the three bolts where the intake connects to the head it's easier then removing oil filter.
Wow that woke the neighbors up! you got the rhythm in you Tom, I saw you bopping to that engine sound brother! only men get that feeling. I said fuel within 3 minutes of this video starting Tom and that wriggling worm in the tank filled me confidence. Damn I know nothing 🤣🤣🤣
Add a shittily made "computer" that's utterly unessesary and a carb that has servos and you have the dumbest, overcomplicated piece of shite cub cadet could have dreamt of. They are not 1/10th the tractors they were 30 years ago.
MTD partnered with a Chinese company to make the Powermore engine manufactured out of China. When I purchased mine two years ago I wouldn't have bought it knowing it was made out of China but back then you couldn't find where the Powermore engine was manufactured on the internet, information wasn't released to the public yet. I believe you're right it's definitely sounds like a electronic issue. Also: when people go to do a tune-up on these I've noticed that if you switch out that ridiculous little red gravity fuel filter to a paper see-through filter and always keep the air filter clean it will run better.
Fantastic Video - I have same mower and I think I have narrowed it to the ECM IntelliPower,. My mower started sputtering and has gotten worse, after checking and accidentally removing the AIR FILTER while it was running, it then ran smooth, the filter is not dirty but I have replaced it with a new one and continues to sputtter so badly I can't mow the lawn. Maybe this helps others out there to isolate the fuel and other issues. Sputters and belches black smoke and is carbonizing the spark plug, thought it was fould plug but no. Read someplace there is a electrical servo on the carb so maybe it is not getting current. Today I will disconnect ECM or even pin out to see what electrical current is coming from it. Another read is to check grounding in the dark for a spark. Cub Cadet Engine 547cc OHV Intellipower, Date of Manufacture 6/2020.
FOLLOW UP!! Disconnected Battery for half an hour to reboot etc. I have ONLY 36 hours on this mower. When you remove the air filter it runs like a scalded dog, put the filter back on and it sputters awfully. The current filter is not dirty, particularly with 36 hours. I REPLACED THE AIR FILTER AND IT RUNS LIKE NEW. The old filter is not dirty at all, I "ASSUME" the ECM monitors the air flow so critically it required a new filter. Well for 15 or so bucks each year I guess it is worth it so far. This ECM makes me squimish about all these electronics. Hope this helps someone out there!
It runs fine without the air filter installed. The air filter is not that dirty. They calibrated the electronics to sensitive to air filter restriction. If you're mowing in dusty areas you will have to blow out the air filter often or replace it. I guess we will be going through lots of air filters.
Mine has been doing this especially under load with the blades engaged. It’ll rev way up then stall out. Hoping it’s just bad fuel. I’ve only had the mower for two years. It cuts great and rides well so I like the mower a lot
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have this same model and I too have noticed this type of revving problem, but also it stalls out when going up a slight hill. If I have enough speed I am able to turn the mower back down hill and it stays running after sputtering for a bit (starving for gas). I have changed the air filter(s), changed fuel filter (used same type filter you put on instead of the small screen type that came with the mower) and added a fuel shut off valve. I noticed at the end of last summer it started to use more gas also and the motor runs as if it running rich. I've taken the carb apart to clean it, but it looked really clean. It don't see a fuel pump anywhere as I believe that is all controlled by the intellipower.
no i didnt, i gave it back to the customer, he's gonna send it to a cub cadet dealer cause it's still under factory warranty. its gonna be in the computer, there is no way to test it.
Someone on Marketplace is selling a mower like this with 19 hours on it for $850 ($2,500 brand new). They say the machine is not currently working because of a faulty computer module. It will take months to get a replacement. I've been an electronics/computer jack of all trades guy for decades. I would never mount a circuit board (computer module) to the side of an engine. I mean would you strap your wife to the hood while you drove her around shopping? She just not going to last long that way.
I have the exact same Mower and I'm having issues with it too as far as it idling way too high. I have changed the oil air filter the idle knob and I've also changed the gas and clean carbs
I don't have the over revving, mine sounds like there is something making noise on the inside. I did check the valve lash and they were so tight. i adjusted them to .10 as per the cover stated and checked the spark plug also and it was good to go at .007. The plug though has lots of soot and so does the muffler. I thought it may have been bad fuel at first. The customer stated that he replaced the carb and the control module. I had to replace one of these before and it was good to go after the replacement.
So I got to the bottom of this tractor. Between setting the valve lash, new air breather and a hotter burning plug, this engine runs better and not a lot of noise. Did you have a part two to your video on the outcome?
Tom, how do I change the spark plug on this. I loved the video and hoped you would show me how to change the spark plug. It is in a metal heat shield ? How do I remove it
Rubber is jammed into the metal shield and then I used a flat head in a slot on the shield to get access to the plug. Any tips so I don’t cross thread the plug
I have different problems: Mine dies after 10 mins of cutting and run ruff. I am able to start it and get it up to the house but slow. I have empted the gas, changed the oil and filter, changed the gas line filter, added engine cleaner as Home depot told me to try, got new gas and added gas added to it, I blew out the engine from dust and added a filer..oh and I bought a new battery. It still is doing the same thing. Could it be the carburetor and where its it. Repair people is out 7 to 8 weeks before they can look at it. My grass will be 5' tall by then...cub cadet Model #13A6A9cs056...Please can someong help me
I got mine new in 2020, it did this from day one. Took it to shop under warranty but they couldn't fix it. Cub cadet company doesn't help with the defective equipment. Is a piece of yunk with the electronic control.
Check Donyboy its the , I guess like David mention the module the part on the side/bottom of the carb ! Might be a malfunction of it I can't remember but yeh Donyboy I'm pretty sure I saw something on that !
awesome brother thanks! i'll check it out right now cause i havent found anything yet, i'm already workin with my cub dealer to get it over to them for warranty but i... like yall.. wanna get to the bottom of this!
I have one of these. It will not start without a continuous prime. As soon as the prime squirt runs out it dies. I'm assuming it's not picking up fuel. The shut off solenoid seems to be working. I was going to take the carb off and clean it but I can't figure out how to get it off. I'm afraid of breaking parts, including the air cleaner housing. How about including the removal section in the video. Otherwise thanks for good instructional videos.
There's 3 bolts that hold the computer tray to the engine. Remove them. Remove the fuel line from the tray by compressing the black clips on the front with needle nose there's two for the fuel line at bottom and 1 at top for an electrical wire. 3 total. Unplug the computer from the gas tank side. Unplug everything from carb side 4 plugs near carb 1 near tank. Unplug the connectors from the carb to computer and main computer cable 3 total.After that you can take the tray out of the way. Then you can get a 10mm on the two nuts that hold the plastic intake shroud to the carb take them off. There's a 10mm under the filter up top and a Philips Remove those. Remove that whole plastic intake piece do not worry about the two Philips that come up from underneath. Take it all of as one piece. Now you'll discover the oil filter is in the way of removing the carb. So take the 3 bolts out holding the intake runner to the head. Now you can take that out and slide the carb off. Then it's 12mm for the fuel shutoff solenoid. 14mm for the jet bolt that holds on the bowl. And your in. Flathead for the jet and the emulsion tube will fall out. Float comes out with the pin careful needle has a spring. You can now clean.
have the same mower but it wont start ,starts if us use starter fluid but then die again , took apart the carb clean it sprayed out all the jets replaced the plug, new filter , and bought a new module. still wont run what am i not doing .its only has about 8 hours on it
take the carb back apart, take the needle and float off and blow thru it, sounds like you still have a blockage, take the fuel line off the carb and make sure you have fuel flow from the tank, i'm editting a video right now with a similar issue on a TroyBilt Bronco
How do you troubleshoot the automatic choke w/ intellipower? my choke seems to be ON all the time. black smoke from the exhaust and fouled out the spark plug with only 15 hours on the machine.
I have a question I have one of these beast and about fed up with it wondering if anyone can help me I cleaned the carb and it still won't run it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid then stops any help would be greatly appreciated ty
hey robert, theres a clog in the main jet somewhere inside the carb, its just not getting fuel, disassemble it completely and use a thin wire to poke thru every crevice and circuit you can see, spray carb cleaner thru it and then blow thru it with compressed air.
and of course make sure fuel is getting to the carb, pull the fuel line off and see if its coming out, maybe even blow back thru it with the gas cap off, be careful tho
Thanks Tom did that pulled the carb off completely blew crab cleaner through the gas intake until it flowed out of the jet under the float put it all back together ran for about 10 minutes and now doing the same thing drained the gas replaced with new gas I guess it's possible the carb re clogged this new technology is killing me I'm old school thanks again
Wow, the more electronics they put in these things the worse the repair knowledge becomes. Yeah that's a powernomore I call em. I don't see a governor, wonder if that is controlled with a servo, internally?
Same issue. 29 hrs on it. I'm going to try the new computer module. Fix it and sell it. Cut my losses. It's under warranty but that means a minimum of a month without a mower.
Mine will idle up for a brief moment on start up then come back down then it will not come back up from a low idle even when I adjust the throttle knob I had the dealer fix it last year they said it was water in the fuel and it is doing it again this year so I drained the fuel and cleaned it out my self this year but I'm still having the same problem
I've got a 2020 XT1 LT42 intellipower 547cc with same over revving and then shuts down. New plug/new fuel filter/new air filter/fresh oxy free gas with seafoam/carb fuel solenoid removed and ground down/gas tank is vented. I played around with an adjustment screw on the front of the mower on the carb. I was told that the screw has something to do with pollution requirements and it is not supposed to be touched. Does anybody know what the proper position for that screw? I cannot find the issue.
Taryl Fixes All just did a video on this tractor too, but that wasn't the issue, I never had any luck with the one I worked on, look at his video and he gives part numbers for replacing the module... it may be worth it, one viewer called me and said he cured his problem by removing it and made sure it was grounded well
I have the same mower, and I can't seem to get it started. I used a sparkplug tester and it's showing that there's a fault in the fuel system. I drained the fuel tank and put fresh gas in it. I cleaned the carb and tested the solenoid, fitted a new air and fuel filter, new plug. Still won't start. I just now replaced the ecm and still not starting. I'm about to give up on this piece of crap mower! I've owned a couple Cub Cadet mowers before and they've always been reliable. Why would Cub Cadet build something as useless as this?
Got my first one in today. Stupidest most needlessly complicated system ive ever seen. Getting the carb of is a pain. The "computer" is pointless linkages work fine and have for 80 years. I hate it, its throw away crap at ita finest. And as with everything now it runs too lean so a mouse fart will cause surging. The one I have intermittently wont start. If it sits for awhile the battery voltage goes to 9v. So im charging the battery to test if the battery is self discharging or if somethings draining it. Dumb design
Yea I'd like to know it dies but starts I cleaned all that I can lol if I unplug the intelli system it still runs but blades spin to slow gotta be a way to manually adjust servo arms to make it idle higher ??
I have this exact model and I bought mine used (1 yrs old) for less then half of a new one. First year after buying it no issues was very happy with it. This second year I started noticing the surging and the more times I used it the worst it started getting until it surged, backed fired, and would almost die while I was mowing. I did notice going uphill made it worst. So looking into it I found anyone of the three elements (Spark, Air, Fuel) when not right would cause computer on these to start sending false signals causing this behavior.
Here is what solved my problem: I cleaned the air filter but I didn't feel it was dirty enough to replace. Then I changed the fuel filter because the one I had was not see through so I couldn't tell if there was crud in it. There was not and fuel flowed with no problem. Then I pulled the spark plug. The spark plug had a lot of carbon build up on it. I took a wire brush to it and scrapped the points with a razor blade to ensure clean contact points. After this the engine ran like new for the next 2 hours to finish up my lawn.
So why did the Spark Plug get carbon build up? My though is as the air filter gets dirty then the fuel starts running rich. So I gotta keep that air filter clean.
Have the same issue.
Due to the piss poor intake system not handling fine dust , it sucks the fine dust in to the cylinder, which in turn scores the cylinder bore badly, allowing excess oil to reside in the bore & be burnt off; i am currently fighting the dealer as mine blows that much smoke, it is like a Mosquito fogger.
$1520 AUD for a new 547cc engine, or $820 AUD- ish for a rebuild (but 12 week wait on parts). I will be building a proper dust seperator intake similar to that of a tractor once we sort the warranty out
@@maxrockatanksyOGIt's a stupid design, needlessly complicated throw away garbage like everything now a days.
Word to the wise on fuel. I acquired a LT42 from my elderly Father in Law a couple days ago. I knew it wasn't properly put away with Stabil or Seafoam. Did drain the old fuel, change filter and still wouldn't run. Went and drained the carb bowl and it smelled like bad gas so removed the carb and used cleaner to spray it all out. Still no luck. Ended up going through every possible nook and cranny three times before getting it running good. I've done snowmobile carbs dozens of times but this intellipower carb has so many more parts it was a tough find. Good news is it ran great finally and cuts like a dream. Treat your fuel before storing and consider adding a shutoff so you can drain it dry end of season.
What was the deal with the carburetor? What did you fix on it?
I am having the same problem........it will over rev.....and then begin to stall after it has been operating for a period of time.
@@ddec92 ditto, you ever find a fix?
Keep us posted on this one brother! This will be a great learning opportunity for us all. Great work Tom!
yea i got with a local cub dealer, we're gonna take it to them and get it fixed under warranty but i wanna learn too.
Did the dealer swap the module? My cadet is doing the same crap! But mine is out of warranty
Any word on this? Mine is doing the same thing. Probably just change the module
I would certainly like to see what ends up being the fix on this machine. Not fond at all of a control module running the whole engine, but that the way the manufactures are going. Just have to try and keep up with the technology. Thanks for the information and great video Tom.
Sup Tom, this is the first I have seen a mower that operates by a module or computer. Great information, thanks for sharing. Take care 👊👍
Dumb. Completely and utterly stupid and unessesarily complex for no reason.
Have a similar problem however mine is going to high throttle and by itself drops to low throttle stays there, then jobs high for a short time then back to low
I have this specific model with around 120 hours and its the best mower ive ever used.
You got lucky. As a guy working on this it screams stupid design. Needlessly difficult to remove carb. Have to take the oil filter 8 plugs, 10 bolts off, or remove the intake from the head. A needlessly complicated carb, a junk computer. It's bad design plain and simple.
You got lucky. Many many others haven't. Mowers failing at 10 hours 20 hours 30 hours is unacceptable. The parts are stupid and expensive.
Congrats to you though.
I would like to know how to take the plastic shroud off that is mounted above the carb after you remove the air filter. I have removed one bolt and two screws and managed to move the lower plastic piece around but cannot remove it the rest of the way. I don't want to break anything. I just need a little guidance. It has the same setup as this mower as far as the air filter.
You need to take the three bolts off that hold the computer tray to the engine off. Squeeze the chips to remove the fuel line connectors remove the electrical plugs both sides and you should be able to remove the computer on its tray. Then take both the carb nuts off. Remove it as one piece. If you need to remove the carb simply remove the three bolts where the intake connects to the head it's easier then removing oil filter.
Wow that woke the neighbors up! you got the rhythm in you Tom, I saw you bopping to that engine sound brother! only men get that feeling. I said fuel within 3 minutes of this video starting Tom and that wriggling worm in the tank filled me confidence. Damn I know nothing 🤣🤣🤣
Add a shittily made "computer" that's utterly unessesary and a carb that has servos and you have the dumbest, overcomplicated piece of shite cub cadet could have dreamt of. They are not 1/10th the tractors they were 30 years ago.
MTD partnered with a Chinese company to make the Powermore engine manufactured out of China. When I purchased mine two years ago I wouldn't have bought it knowing it was made out of China but back then you couldn't find where the Powermore engine was manufactured on the internet, information wasn't released to the public yet.
I believe you're right it's definitely sounds like a electronic issue.
Also: when people go to do a tune-up on these I've noticed that if you switch out that ridiculous little red gravity fuel filter to a paper see-through filter and always keep the air filter clean it will run better.
Fantastic Video - I have same mower and I think I have narrowed it to the ECM IntelliPower,. My mower started sputtering and has gotten worse, after checking and accidentally removing the AIR FILTER while it was running, it then ran smooth, the filter is not dirty but I have replaced it with a new one and continues to sputtter so badly I can't mow the lawn. Maybe this helps others out there to isolate the fuel and other issues. Sputters and belches black smoke and is carbonizing the spark plug, thought it was fould plug but no. Read someplace there is a electrical servo on the carb so maybe it is not getting current. Today I will disconnect ECM or even pin out to see what electrical current is coming from it. Another read is to check grounding in the dark for a spark. Cub Cadet Engine 547cc OHV Intellipower, Date of Manufacture 6/2020.
FOLLOW UP!! Disconnected Battery for half an hour to reboot etc. I have ONLY 36 hours on this mower. When you remove the air filter it runs like a scalded dog, put the filter back on and it sputters awfully. The current filter is not dirty, particularly with 36 hours. I REPLACED THE AIR FILTER AND IT RUNS LIKE NEW. The old filter is not dirty at all, I "ASSUME" the ECM monitors the air flow so critically it required a new filter. Well for 15 or so bucks each year I guess it is worth it so far. This ECM makes me squimish about all these electronics. Hope this helps someone out there!
thanks so much for this post Keith!
Mine has same problem only 58 hours! How did you fix?
It runs fine without the air filter installed. The air filter is not that dirty. They calibrated the electronics to sensitive to air filter restriction. If you're mowing in dusty areas you will have to blow out the air filter often or replace it. I guess we will be going through lots of air filters.
Mine has been doing this especially under load with the blades engaged. It’ll rev way up then stall out. Hoping it’s just bad fuel. I’ve only had the mower for two years. It cuts great and rides well so I like the mower a lot
There's a 3 year consumer warranty so talk to a dealer soon as ya can
Clean fuel is a must and engine will have to be kept very clean and serviced often
This is a new one on me too Tom, looking forward to the resolution. 👍🏼
John anytime there’s a problem with modulators it’s due to heat so they have to be cooled off for them to work right
Very true Mr Henry, hopefully the spacer idea will work for Tom.
My 2 year old mower does this same thing. Calling the dealer tomorrow. I believe there's a 3 year warranty so hopefully I can get it replaced
Same problem over here. My mower is almost 2 year old..I purchased it from home depot 7/12/2020
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have this same model and I too have noticed this type of revving problem, but also it stalls out when going up a slight hill. If I have enough speed I am able to turn the mower back down hill and it stays running after sputtering for a bit (starving for gas). I have changed the air filter(s), changed fuel filter (used same type filter you put on instead of the small screen type that came with the mower) and added a fuel shut off valve. I noticed at the end of last summer it started to use more gas also and the motor runs as if it running rich. I've taken the carb apart to clean it, but it looked really clean. It don't see a fuel pump anywhere as I believe that is all controlled by the intellipower.
no i didnt, i gave it back to the customer, he's gonna send it to a cub cadet dealer cause it's still under factory warranty. its gonna be in the computer, there is no way to test it.
You're correct on that warranty
I have exact same unit. My engine surges at lower speeds but is good at mowing speeds.
This one was doing the opposite
Doby at it again. No idea what to do. That's why I take it to guys like you. Bo patience for that stuff. 👊
i love a good challenge!
Someone on Marketplace is selling a mower like this with 19 hours on it for $850 ($2,500 brand new). They say the machine is not currently working because of a faulty computer module. It will take months to get a replacement. I've been an electronics/computer jack of all trades guy for decades. I would never mount a circuit board (computer module) to the side of an engine. I mean would you strap your wife to the hood while you drove her around shopping? She just not going to last long that way.
I have the exact same Mower and I'm having issues with it too as far as it idling way too high. I have changed the oil air filter the idle knob and I've also changed the gas and clean carbs
Survey says, carb or computer. Failure to read the stepper motor or sending the wrong signals.
I would hate to see that price for that small computer. Great video Tom
about 65 bucks
It’s probably 150 how
I don't have the over revving, mine sounds like there is something making noise on the inside. I did check the valve lash and they were so tight. i adjusted them to .10 as per the cover stated and checked the spark plug also and it was good to go at .007. The plug though has lots of soot and so does the muffler. I thought it may have been bad fuel at first. The customer stated that he replaced the carb and the control module. I had to replace one of these before and it was good to go after the replacement.
So I got to the bottom of this tractor. Between setting the valve lash, new air breather and a hotter burning plug, this engine runs better and not a lot of noise. Did you have a part two to your video on the outcome?
no we shipped it off to a dealer, think they gave up on it
Tom try to put some spacers in between the engine and the modulator
Tom, how do I change the spark plug on this. I loved the video and hoped you would show me how to change the spark plug. It is in a metal heat shield ? How do I remove it
@@aaronpawluk2018 the boot should just pull right off
Rubber is jammed into the metal shield and then I used a flat head in a slot on the shield to get access to the plug. Any tips so I don’t cross thread the plug
@@aaronpawluk2018 just be careful and start it by hand
Tom very good video brother very educational keep up the good work boom👊🏼👍🏼
My cub cadet 547 cc Intel starts cut for minute to two minutes and dies starts back up. Does it over and over
Model 13A6A9CS056 please help
sounds like it may have water in it
I have different problems: Mine dies after 10 mins of cutting and run ruff. I am able to start it and get it up to the house but slow. I have empted the gas, changed the oil and filter, changed the gas line filter, added engine cleaner as Home depot told me to try, got new gas and added gas added to it, I blew out the engine from dust and added a filer..oh and I bought a new battery. It still is doing the same thing. Could it be the carburetor and where its it. Repair people is out 7 to 8 weeks before they can look at it. My grass will be 5' tall by then...cub cadet Model #13A6A9cs056...Please can someong help me
I got mine new in 2020, it did this from day one. Took it to shop under warranty but they couldn't fix it. Cub cadet company doesn't help with the defective equipment.
Is a piece of yunk with the electronic control.
Check Donyboy its the , I guess like David mention the module the part on the side/bottom of the carb ! Might be a malfunction of it I can't remember but yeh Donyboy I'm pretty sure I saw something on that !
awesome brother thanks! i'll check it out right now cause i havent found anything yet, i'm already workin with my cub dealer to get it over to them for warranty but i... like yall.. wanna get to the bottom of this!
I have one of these. It will not start without a continuous prime. As soon as the prime squirt runs out it dies. I'm assuming it's not picking up fuel. The shut off solenoid seems to be working. I was going to take the carb off and clean it but I can't figure out how to get it off. I'm afraid of breaking parts, including the air cleaner housing. How about including the removal section in the video. Otherwise thanks for good instructional videos.
I'll tell you how
There's 3 bolts that hold the computer tray to the engine. Remove them. Remove the fuel line from the tray by compressing the black clips on the front with needle nose there's two for the fuel line at bottom and 1 at top for an electrical wire. 3 total. Unplug the computer from the gas tank side. Unplug everything from carb side 4 plugs near carb 1 near tank. Unplug the connectors from the carb to computer and main computer cable 3 total.After that you can take the tray out of the way. Then you can get a 10mm on the two nuts that hold the plastic intake shroud to the carb take them off. There's a 10mm under the filter up top and a Philips Remove those. Remove that whole plastic intake piece do not worry about the two Philips that come up from underneath. Take it all of as one piece. Now you'll discover the oil filter is in the way of removing the carb. So take the 3 bolts out holding the intake runner to the head. Now you can take that out and slide the carb off. Then it's 12mm for the fuel shutoff solenoid. 14mm for the jet bolt that holds on the bowl. And your in. Flathead for the jet and the emulsion tube will fall out. Float comes out with the pin careful needle has a spring. You can now clean.
good vid tom keep up the good vids thanks lee
i have the same mower. is there a factory or aftermarket Manuel for this little beasty
Check out cubcadet.com
@TomDobyMowerRepair thanks but been there and done that. No joy
I have the same mower that surges uncontrollably when the engine is at temperature. What was the repair for your video? No part 2!
No we sent it off to the dealer
Tom these videos are 🥇
Mine is just the opposite
It runs for approximately 1 1/2 minutes then dies like the coil got hot but the coil checked out good
have the same mower but it wont start ,starts if us use starter fluid but then die again , took apart the carb clean it sprayed out all the jets replaced the plug, new filter , and bought a new module. still wont run what am i not doing .its only has about 8 hours on it
take the carb back apart, take the needle and float off and blow thru it, sounds like you still have a blockage, take the fuel line off the carb and make sure you have fuel flow from the tank, i'm editting a video right now with a similar issue on a TroyBilt Bronco
Does do that under a load like cut grass
How do you troubleshoot the automatic choke w/ intellipower? my choke seems to be ON all the time. black smoke from the exhaust and fouled out the spark plug with only 15 hours on the machine.
Did the issue ever get resolved or the dealer tell you what the problem was
No never heard back
Have you checked the flex compacitor😅
hahaha
I have a question I have one of these beast and about fed up with it wondering if anyone can help me I cleaned the carb and it still won't run it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid then stops any help would be greatly appreciated ty
hey robert, theres a clog in the main jet somewhere inside the carb, its just not getting fuel, disassemble it completely and use a thin wire to poke thru every crevice and circuit you can see, spray carb cleaner thru it and then blow thru it with compressed air.
and of course make sure fuel is getting to the carb, pull the fuel line off and see if its coming out, maybe even blow back thru it with the gas cap off, be careful tho
Thanks Tom did that pulled the carb off completely blew crab cleaner through the gas intake until it flowed out of the jet under the float put it all back together ran for about 10 minutes and now doing the same thing drained the gas replaced with new gas I guess it's possible the carb re clogged this new technology is killing me I'm old school thanks again
Wow, the more electronics they put in these things the worse the repair knowledge becomes. Yeah that's a powernomore I call em. I don't see a governor, wonder if that is controlled with a servo, internally?
Same issue. 29 hrs on it. I'm going to try the new computer module. Fix it and sell it. Cut my losses.
It's under warranty but that means a minimum of a month without a mower.
That is a fancy rider there
Have this problem right now!
Mine will idle up for a brief moment on start up then come back down then it will not come back up from a low idle even when I adjust the throttle knob I had the dealer fix it last year they said it was water in the fuel and it is doing it again this year so I drained the fuel and cleaned it out my self this year but I'm still having the same problem
I've got a 2020 XT1 LT42 intellipower 547cc with same over revving and then shuts down. New plug/new fuel filter/new air filter/fresh oxy free gas with seafoam/carb fuel solenoid removed and ground down/gas tank is vented. I played around with an adjustment screw on the front of the mower on the carb. I was told that the screw has something to do with pollution requirements and it is not supposed to be touched. Does anybody know what the proper position for that screw? I cannot find the issue.
Taryl Fixes All just did a video on this tractor too, but that wasn't the issue, I never had any luck with the one I worked on, look at his video and he gives part numbers for replacing the module... it may be worth it, one viewer called me and said he cured his problem by removing it and made sure it was grounded well
I received a replacement module today.. Installed it and no change. I'll be checking grounds tomorrow. Thx.
@@TomDobyMowerRepair
I have the same mower, and I can't seem to get it started. I used a sparkplug tester and it's showing that there's a fault in the fuel system. I drained the fuel tank and put fresh gas in it. I cleaned the carb and tested the solenoid, fitted a new air and fuel filter, new plug. Still won't start. I just now replaced the ecm and still not starting. I'm about to give up on this piece of crap mower! I've owned a couple Cub Cadet mowers before and they've always been reliable. Why would Cub Cadet build something as useless as this?
iv herd of the cub cadet xt1 and xt2 never seen one that is electric
yea there are no throttle linkages, choke linkages or governor linkages at all, all computer controlled
Your running it with no load @ highest rpm, not good
well it does it under a load which is why its in my shop, thanks for watching!
Got my first one in today. Stupidest most needlessly complicated system ive ever seen. Getting the carb of is a pain. The "computer" is pointless linkages work fine and have for 80 years. I hate it, its throw away crap at ita finest. And as with everything now it runs too lean so a mouse fart will cause surging.
The one I have intermittently wont start. If it sits for awhile the battery voltage goes to 9v. So im charging the battery to test if the battery is self discharging or if somethings draining it.
Dumb design
i got way more picky about what i take in my shop!
Air filter is going to cause this problem I think
I have the same issue with my Cub Cadet did anyone figure out what the issue is
No he sent it to a Cub dealer for warranty and I haven't heard back
@@TomDobyMowerRepair
I tried all kind of things is it possible that it could be that intelli module on the side of the motor
@@christopherstewart643 I believe it was
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Ok I'll give it try it's so hard getting a cub cadet tech on the line
Yea I'd like to know it dies but starts I cleaned all that I can lol if I unplug the intelli system it still runs but blades spin to slow gotta be a way to manually adjust servo arms to make it idle higher ??