When a engine is hard to turn over its usually the valves need to be adjusted. It's not pushing the compression release. The starter is a sacrificial part. Hope this helps someone. 👍
I likewise had starter issues and replaced it (The starter is a junker). The mower still would be hard to start but a shot of starter fluid solved this. Turns out the throttle cable gets out of adjustment on this mower. The solution was to adjust it so the CHOKE FULLY CLOSES on start up. Appears many Cub Cadets are affected as there are many videos here on this subject. BTW, you do not have to dismantle the dash to get out the Throttle lever or the ignition switch either. They are held in place by 4 body push clips which can be released by a careful application of a couple of wide bladed putty knives while working the case up and out.
I have the same 22 hp Cub Cadet and was having starting problems but only after the tractor was hot. That seems strange that it would be easier to start when stone cold but that was always the case. I replaced the starter but the same thing started happening again after a while. Didn't think it was the solenoid but ordered an aftermarket solenoid and put it in and it was totally dead, so I sent it back and put the old one back on (and it started). Very recently I decided to replace the battery with a 300 CCA battery. When new, the tractor came with a 230 CCA. Today after cutting the lawn and pulling it into the garage, I turned it off and it started right up, twice. Then I changed the oil and filter and it started right up again. That was pretty unusual, in a good way. I think that I saw somewhere that those 230 CCA batteries are good for engines up to 19 HP so maybe they should come with a more powerful battery? It may be premature but I'm hoping that weaker battery was my problem. (I did do a load test on the old battery, and it seemed fine. Just not good enough maybe?) Time will tell. It's a pricey battery but if it works in the future like it did today, I'll be very happy.
Mine is the same exact way. Always started right up cold but seemed just a little weak. But as soon as I have to shut off the engine to pick up something in the yard, then when trying to start it, it seems like it's almost dead. The starters are junk in my opinion. The battery size increase is an excellent idea. I do have the more cca in my toro. I'm going to switch them and see. Also looking for an aftermarket stater.
@@allanautollc3210 I hope you will reply again to tell me how that battery switch worked. If that happens to work for you (and me in the future) then it's a shame that Cub Cadet can't put a decent battery in to begin with. I bought a "Magna Power Pro" battery at Lowes. The website says it's 365 cranking amps, 300 CCA, recommended minimum CCA for most engines up to 38 hp (currently $55.98.) It would be great if all those "bad starters" weren't all that bad to begin with. That battery is cheaper than the starter I put in. I never shut my tractor off anymore until I'm completely finished for the day and it's sitting in the garage. Hate burning gas idling, but hate being stranded even more waiting for it to cool down.
That particular starter is a bad design for kohler engines, I have had several come to my shop with that problem, seems like kohler won't fixed the problem with the company that they are getting those starters from
I just got mine delivered today, wouldn't start, charged up the battery, and still wouldn't start messed around with the wires. The wire coming off the starter had a ceramic block tapped to it, once I separated that ceramic block a little off that wire started right up! Hopefully this helps someone else who gets this mower!
I'm currently dealing with starting issues. Mowed a hard and loaded on trailer. Got home, wouldn't start. Solenoid would click but nothing else. Got a solenoid today, same thing. Pulled my test light out and getting power to starter. Guess I'll pull the starter tomorrow and check it.
@@allanautollc3210 so now I'm super confused. Went out this morning and took starter off, tested it, it works. Checked ok level, perfect. Put the starter back on and tried starting it. Started right up 🤦♂️.
Ok, glad it started but still . May have helped the connections to the starter by removing them and reinstalling them. Glad your engine is good My Cadet Still has dead or very weak and hard to start after its hot. Like the battery is dead. I'm going to upgrade my battery. And I already made sure all the starter related connections were clean and I lubed them. The Koehler starters are junk from my experience. This one will break soon
@@allanautollc3210 yeah I'm glad everything still works. We bought this mower in 2018 when we moved into our house. I wouldn't be very happy if the motor failed already. I ended up putting the original soleniod back on and apparently it wasn't bad either so I put the new one on the shelf lol.
GOT XT1 ENDURO LT 42 RIDING MOWER CUB CADET. I CHECKED ALL SWITCHES AND DETERMINED THAT IT WAS THE COMPUTER MODULE SWITCH. HOWEVER, I REPLACED THIS AND IT STILL DOES NOT START. SOMEONE SAYS THERE ARE TWO FUSES. WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED. THIS IS THE FUEL INJECTED ENGINE. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.
I'll look at mine this weekend and I'll reply here if I find them. Double check the ground connections and all fuse contacts as well. Ignition wire behind the key may have went bad too.
There is a fuse that I blew on an EFI 46” XT1 for the battery under the seat, 20 amp I believe. I am putting in shop under warranty for the 3rd time for wiring issues. The EFI wire oxidizes with moisture and rots where it no longer connects to the fuel system and will never start, I used some stranded 14 gauge wire to reach plug in at fuel injector to have it run until I could get the shop to repair which was 8-10 weeks at a Cub Cadet authorized service center. You are the 1st person that I have seen with an EFI.
My motor locked up on my Cub Cadet and they replaced the motor,, the old motor a piston ended up with one of the nuts that hold the piston in place got wedged between the piston and the inside the wall and the new motor knocks when trying to get it started and it takes almost 5 minutes for it to finally start
That Sucks I would contact cub cadet and whoever you had replace the motor. Not to sound elementary but did they put the correct weight oil in the motor or correct amount?
I bought a turn key small engine and without checking, I couldn't get it to start... They put double the amount of oil in it (for shipping purposes) without any warning indications. I found out once it was smoking and leaking while trying to start it LOL
@@allanautollc3210 it was the Cub Cadet dealer that did the work, and I checked the new motor when I went to get it back everything was good but after three weeks the new motor started this problem lucky for me I have a Husqvarna and I have been using it to get the yard mowed and it was given to me by a neighbor who moved to a assisted living home and I have had no trouble with it
Still has a hard dead spot starting when hot sometimes BUT not nearly as bad. Someone else recommended replacing the starter with another brand , NOT a Koehler starter
That plow is made for the beeder models it will fit that but dont waste your time i got a 2024 model got the plow to push dirt and gravel and hay small stuff around out by my barn shit talking about feeling like a idiot im glad i dont hav3 neighbors close by they be like whats that idiot doung with that plow just sitting still not moving lol
Because of the low hours and how the shaft broke on the starter, the only way anything could be warranted is if there were records of break in service on that cadet motor , i explained that it came with the house i purchased, no records...like he said the valves must be too tight and need adjusted because of how the starter broke, so I just politely paid for the starter and try not to expose the veins in my face ready to explode of anger. No biggie
@@allanautollc3210 that's b s there is no break in time on motors low hours should have helped cause valves should not need adjusting for 200 hours even if bought online should have been covered they had issues with bad starter shafts breaking on those I would have been po also
When a engine is hard to turn over its usually the valves need to be adjusted. It's not pushing the compression release. The starter is a sacrificial part. Hope this helps someone. 👍
Get the chains for it and you wont slip at all. Thanks for the video
I have a new one. And wheel weights. I'll get chains too
@@allanautollc3210 the chains are great plus it kinda plugs your ground too. I leave them on all year round
Very Informative, and helped me to diagnose an age old problem. Thanks!
I likewise had starter issues and replaced it (The starter is a junker). The mower still would be hard to start but a shot of starter fluid solved this. Turns out the throttle cable gets out of adjustment on this mower. The solution was to adjust it so the CHOKE FULLY CLOSES on start up. Appears many Cub Cadets are affected as there are many videos here on this subject. BTW, you do not have to dismantle the dash to get out the Throttle lever or the ignition switch either. They are held in place by 4 body push clips which can be released by a careful application of a couple of wide bladed putty knives while working the case up and out.
I have the same 22 hp Cub Cadet and was having starting problems but only after the tractor was hot. That seems strange that it would be easier to start when stone cold but that was always the case.
I replaced the starter but the same thing started happening again after a while. Didn't think it was the solenoid but ordered an aftermarket solenoid and put it in and it was totally dead, so I sent it back and put the old one back on (and it started).
Very recently I decided to replace the battery with a 300 CCA battery. When new, the tractor came with a 230 CCA. Today after cutting the lawn and pulling it into the garage, I turned it off and it started right up, twice. Then I changed the oil and filter and it started right up again. That was pretty unusual, in a good way.
I think that I saw somewhere that those 230 CCA batteries are good for engines up to 19 HP so maybe they should come with a more powerful battery? It may be premature but I'm hoping that weaker battery was my problem. (I did do a load test on the old battery, and it seemed fine. Just not good enough maybe?) Time will tell. It's a pricey battery but if it works in the future like it did today, I'll be very happy.
Mine is the same exact way. Always started right up cold but seemed just a little weak. But as soon as I have to shut off the engine to pick up something in the yard, then when trying to start it, it seems like it's almost dead. The starters are junk in my opinion.
The battery size increase is an excellent idea.
I do have the more cca in my toro. I'm going to switch them and see.
Also looking for an aftermarket stater.
@@allanautollc3210
I hope you will reply again to tell me how that battery switch worked. If that happens to work for you (and me in the future) then it's a shame that Cub Cadet can't put a decent battery in to begin with. I bought a "Magna Power Pro" battery at Lowes. The website says it's 365 cranking amps, 300 CCA, recommended minimum CCA for most engines up to 38 hp (currently $55.98.) It would be great if all those "bad starters" weren't all that bad to begin with. That battery is cheaper than the starter I put in.
I never shut my tractor off anymore until I'm completely finished for the day and it's sitting in the garage. Hate burning gas idling, but hate being stranded even more waiting for it to cool down.
That particular starter is a bad design for kohler engines, I have had several come to my shop with that problem, seems like kohler won't fixed the problem with the company that they are getting those starters from
I have a 24hp V twin Briggs and Stratton on a Husqvarna YTH24V54 now.
I just got mine delivered today, wouldn't start, charged up the battery, and still wouldn't start messed around with the wires. The wire coming off the starter had a ceramic block tapped to it, once I separated that ceramic block a little off that wire started right up! Hopefully this helps someone else who gets this mower!
I'm currently dealing with starting issues. Mowed a hard and loaded on trailer. Got home, wouldn't start. Solenoid would click but nothing else. Got a solenoid today, same thing. Pulled my test light out and getting power to starter. Guess I'll pull the starter tomorrow and check it.
Hopefully it didn't run low on oil and now locked up when it cooled down a little.
If starter checks good then check the engine.
@@allanautollc3210 so now I'm super confused. Went out this morning and took starter off, tested it, it works. Checked ok level, perfect. Put the starter back on and tried starting it. Started right up 🤦♂️.
Ok, glad it started but still .
May have helped the connections to the starter by removing them and reinstalling them.
Glad your engine is good
My Cadet Still has dead or very weak and hard to start after its hot. Like the battery is dead. I'm going to upgrade my battery. And I already made sure all the starter related connections were clean and I lubed them. The Koehler starters are junk from my experience. This one will break soon
@@allanautollc3210 yeah I'm glad everything still works. We bought this mower in 2018 when we moved into our house. I wouldn't be very happy if the motor failed already. I ended up putting the original soleniod back on and apparently it wasn't bad either so I put the new one on the shelf lol.
Mine did the same thing. The plastic piece is from the inside of the engine cover. Confused me too.
I've had my Cadet for 6 years now and I'm about to replace my 3rd starter
Compression relief on the camshaft is malfunctioning so it put too much torque on the bendix of the starter and broke it
I have the xt2 the 46 inch fabdeck enduro series twin engine fuel injection wont start bout to dump it off a bridge 90 hrs only such crap
GOT XT1 ENDURO LT 42 RIDING MOWER CUB CADET. I CHECKED ALL SWITCHES AND DETERMINED THAT IT WAS THE COMPUTER MODULE SWITCH. HOWEVER, I REPLACED THIS AND IT STILL DOES NOT START. SOMEONE SAYS THERE ARE TWO FUSES. WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED. THIS IS THE FUEL INJECTED ENGINE. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.
I'll look at mine this weekend and I'll reply here if I find them.
Double check the ground connections and all fuse contacts as well.
Ignition wire behind the key may have went bad too.
There is a fuse that I blew on an EFI 46” XT1 for the battery under the seat, 20 amp I believe. I am putting in shop under warranty for the 3rd time for wiring issues. The EFI wire oxidizes with moisture and rots where it no longer connects to the fuel system and will never start, I used some stranded 14 gauge wire to reach plug in at fuel injector to have it run until I could get the shop to repair which was 8-10 weeks at a Cub Cadet authorized service center. You are the 1st person that I have seen with an EFI.
My motor locked up on my Cub Cadet and they replaced the motor,, the old motor a piston ended up with one of the nuts that hold the piston in place got wedged between the piston and the inside the wall and the new motor knocks when trying to get it started and it takes almost 5 minutes for it to finally start
That Sucks
I would contact cub cadet and whoever you had replace the motor.
Not to sound elementary but did they put the correct weight oil in the motor or correct amount?
I bought a turn key small engine and without checking, I couldn't get it to start...
They put double the amount of oil in it (for shipping purposes) without any warning indications. I found out once it was smoking and leaking while trying to start it LOL
@@allanautollc3210 it was the Cub Cadet dealer that did the work, and I checked the new motor when I went to get it back everything was good but after three weeks the new motor started this problem lucky for me I have a Husqvarna and I have been using it to get the yard mowed and it was given to me by a neighbor who moved to a assisted living home and I have had no trouble with it
And it is a 22 horse Kohler engine
Did fixing the starter fix the problem? I just saw that I have the exact same issue with my starter.
Still has a hard dead spot starting when hot sometimes BUT not nearly as bad.
Someone else recommended replacing the starter with another brand , NOT a Koehler starter
@@allanautollc3210 awesome thanks! Also, prices I've seen are only like $60 ...seems cheap or is there more I need to get ?
That plow is made for the beeder models it will fit that but dont waste your time i got a 2024 model got the plow to push dirt and gravel and hay small stuff around out by my barn shit talking about feeling like a idiot im glad i dont hav3 neighbors close by they be like whats that idiot doung with that plow just sitting still not moving lol
I'm surprised they used to be good at extended warranty on parts they had problems with
Because of the low hours and how the shaft broke on the starter, the only way anything could be warranted is if there were records of break in service on that cadet motor , i explained that it came with the house i purchased, no records...like he said the valves must be too tight and need adjusted because of how the starter broke, so I just politely paid for the starter and try not to expose the veins in my face ready to explode of anger. No biggie
@@allanautollc3210 that's b s there is no break in time on motors low hours should have helped cause valves should not need adjusting for 200 hours even if bought online should have been covered they had issues with bad starter shafts breaking on those I would have been po also
#1 chicommie steel
Pull the shroud out. You'll see the damage
If you would have taken back to dealer they would have warranted the starter they got a bad batch of them
I tried too. It was dated 2017 and Cadet and Koehler Both declined any warranty.