I appreciate your support. As far as sharing things about myself I really don't think it'd be that interesting to anyone. I'm literally a normal guy who works a day job and just enjoys woodworking when I have the time.
Great content! Please keep it coming, really enjoy the way you discuss your projects. I’m working towards some projects and enjoy the content you put out as it makes me feel confident to pursue japanese style projects. Keep up the great work!!
Where do you source your nifty vintage tools? I keep an eye out when I visit family in Japan but the 2nd hand stuff I see is always mass-produced garbage. I’m obviously looking in the wrong place. Hints? Also 穴屋 (あなや) ah-nah-yah, literally ‘hole merchant’ - nice name for a journeyman carpenter where most buildings were made solely with mortise/tenon joints. Love your channel.
The name makes sense. Thanks for sharing that. As far as finding tools it's actually best to find people that are involved in the business and ask them. They know where to find them and usually they can get you what you're after.
I do have some things in mind. Thinking stuff that uses some regular every day cedar/pine lumber but with joinery. Haven't made up my mind yet lol thanks for watching!
I have just recently got into woodworking and have decided I, like yourself, have an interest in Japanese tools and join ery techniques. However, upon using my chisel I felt like it wasn't working efficiently and I've now noticed a chip in the blade. I prepared the chisel as per videos I have seen including yours but it just never seems to be sharp. I don't have any water stones and instead have been using a 300/1000 grit diamond stone. Can you advise me on what I may have done to cause the chip in the blade and what is the best way to remedy the situation. Thanks.
FWIW we use an automotive rustremover in a plastic container from the auto parts store . Clean with a plastic toothbrush rinse with water , and cleanup with a rust eraser a small sq 220 block of silicon carbide rubber, further honing and polishing on japanese water stone
if you want super clean lines, check out the "Knife Wall" Paul Sellers shows it perfectly on youtube, i also use it a ton when installing new locks as a locksmith.
Commenting for posterity, but for timber framing slick like that you need to grind the entirety of the bottom *if you do need it to be effective as a timber framing slick.* sharpening the first inch or so is alright for normal woodworking chisel but a slick requires a perfectly flat bottom. You can see the previous owners knew that by the wear on its bottom.
@@Lemongrasspicker You're right, but it applies to timber framing chisels as well. Im pretty sure the only difference between the two is one has a long handle for pushing and isn't supposed to be struck
@@Lemongrasspicker cut inside the line and pare off to finish, and when removing large pieces it maybe best to twist the Chisel rather than prying at them and compressing your edges.
@@Lemongrasspicker Reason why is that the edges are harder than western chisels and can possibly chip. Western chisels can be used to pry much more, as their tempered steel is not as hard. Though some prying is ok, but not to the point of trying to break off well connected fibers. I've used my anaya nomi to cut out housings for braces and deep splines 11" long x 2" wide x 5" deep. I do pry lightly but only to clear material that's held by very little fibers to move waste out of the way.
Honestly I just subscribed and I must say I love your channel! Keep it up!
Thanks for sharing,
It would be cool to share a little bit about your self and how you were trained by your teacher as you mentioned.
Love your videos
I appreciate your support. As far as sharing things about myself I really don't think it'd be that interesting to anyone. I'm literally a normal guy who works a day job and just enjoys woodworking when I have the time.
you look so excited. Thank you for sharing. I really enjoy your video sir..
Thanks for watching!
Great content! Please keep it coming, really enjoy the way you discuss your projects. I’m working towards some projects and enjoy the content you put out as it makes me feel confident to pursue japanese style projects. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the informative video.
Nice! That is one massive chisel. I almost never work on anything large enough to use one but I still want one anyway ;)
No reason not to own one. Never know when you'll be called on to do some hardcore timber framing.
Solid advice on practicing there at the end. I sometimes do that to practice sawing, just make some sawdust. Nice chisel, too :-).
Pine is your friend for sure. Saw practice is a great thing to do. Thanks for watching
Where do you source your nifty vintage tools? I keep an eye out when I visit family in Japan but the 2nd hand stuff I see is always mass-produced garbage. I’m obviously looking in the wrong place. Hints?
Also 穴屋 (あなや) ah-nah-yah, literally ‘hole merchant’ - nice name for a journeyman carpenter where most buildings were made solely with mortise/tenon joints.
Love your channel.
The name makes sense. Thanks for sharing that. As far as finding tools it's actually best to find people that are involved in the business and ask them. They know where to find them and usually they can get you what you're after.
In this case ana- ya is hole digger specialist .mortise making is time consuming work . So there were specialists.
Very cool Lemon, any ideas on what you might want to build? You mentioned toward the end of the video that you have some projects in mind...
I do have some things in mind. Thinking stuff that uses some regular every day cedar/pine lumber but with joinery. Haven't made up my mind yet lol thanks for watching!
I have just recently got into woodworking and have decided I, like yourself, have an interest in Japanese tools and join ery techniques. However, upon using my chisel I felt like it wasn't working efficiently and I've now noticed a chip in the blade. I prepared the chisel as per videos I have seen including yours but it just never seems to be sharp. I don't have any water stones and instead have been using a 300/1000 grit diamond stone. Can you advise me on what I may have done to cause the chip in the blade and what is the best way to remedy the situation. Thanks.
FWIW we use an automotive rustremover in a plastic container from the auto parts store . Clean with a plastic toothbrush rinse with water , and cleanup with a rust eraser a small sq 220 block of silicon carbide rubber, further honing and polishing on japanese water stone
ok?
Very nice video.. Anyways is that jpnese chisel blue steel or white steel ?
Thanks for watching. I have no idea what kind of steel was used.
良い鑿を持っていますね。日本の刃物はとても繊細ですが、研ぐのは大変難しいです。砥石も重要です。
Do the Japanese not use a western style mortising chisel? In other words, a thicker heavier design
You mean like a pig sticker? There are chisels like that in the Japanese world and I do have a few. They just aren't as long as an anaya is
nice vid. Especially liked the part 'for you metric guys that's like uhh a lot' whaha
if you want super clean lines, check out the "Knife Wall"
Paul Sellers shows it perfectly on youtube, i also use it a ton when installing new locks as a locksmith.
Where would one use a knife wall in setting up a chisel?
That kind of accuracy is not at all needed for this kind of mortice.
Commenting for posterity, but for timber framing slick like that you need to grind the entirety of the bottom *if you do need it to be effective as a timber framing slick.* sharpening the first inch or so is alright for normal woodworking chisel but a slick requires a perfectly flat bottom. You can see the previous owners knew that by the wear on its bottom.
This is not a slick
@@Lemongrasspicker You're right, but it applies to timber framing chisels as well. Im pretty sure the only difference between the two is one has a long handle for pushing and isn't supposed to be struck
15 inches is about 38 centimeters
To help preserve your edges do not pry, but instead twist, also leaving your edges proud also helps.
That makes no sense
@@Lemongrasspicker cut inside the line and pare off to finish, and when removing large pieces it maybe best to twist the Chisel rather than prying at them and compressing your edges.
@@claymore609 it was a piece to try out the chisel. The joint didn't matter at all. Construction joinery isn't about blistergram perfection.
@@Lemongrasspicker true enough, it's been a few weeks since I watched the video.
@@Lemongrasspicker Reason why is that the edges are harder than western chisels and can possibly chip. Western chisels can be used to pry much more, as their tempered steel is not as hard. Though some prying is ok, but not to the point of trying to break off well connected fibers. I've used my anaya nomi to cut out housings for braces and deep splines 11" long x 2" wide x 5" deep. I do pry lightly but only to clear material that's held by very little fibers to move waste out of the way.