2010 Chevrolet Impala wiring issues solved!(p0651, p2135, p2127)
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- The problem is found on these impala between the model years of 2007-2010. This could also be for another 5 volt component it is not necessarily always going to be the check valve that fails that will throw out some of these codes.
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I keep saying the "sensor" just remember it is a check valve.
My 2009 impala is giving a U1827 code. Where is the yaw sensor located?
@@7GTM4 It is under the middle console about where the shifter is. The whole center console needs to come out then you should find it. I did not find an exact place, but it is in that general location.
@@derbydog02 ok thanks
@@7GTM4 No problem. Let me know if you need anything else.
i need help with my car. it was perfectly fine until i hit that deer and and changed my hood and headlight and the only issue left is that i cant find the wire burning smell no matter where i smell under the hood so it must be closer to inside of car. so, i figure since the car started jerking and speedometer start bouncing and doors locked unlocked non stop i figure its somewhere coming from this part. what do you think might of happened????
You just saved my bacon friend. 2009 Impala went to low power (REALLY low power) with 0651 and 2135 codes. Watched you vid and ran out to unplug secondary air injection valve. Engine ran fine. I think this will be the third one since I got the car in 2010. Thanks so much!
No problem! Glad I could help. Hopefully this will be the last, and more permanent replacement this time lol.
Helped me with a few months old replacement Dorman Check Valve assembly that shorted out. Thanks 👍
No problem glad I could help.
Thank you a lot of simple fixes with this car just have to use wiring diagram I bought 2010 Chevy impala
Yep, no problem.
Thanks, I unhooked and started right up.
No problem, glad I could help.
Good information
Going through the same insane GM Bs,except its my brothers 2007 Monte. Started out doing head gaskets,shaved heads,lapped valves, timing chain& lower gear,all gaskets,seals and orings. Would not start,solenoid tested bad, replaced starter. After replacing and rerouting starter cable, because nobody offered exact starter with solenoid position we Needed. Car now throwing bunch if codes. I hope your fix helps us.
Thank you very much. I thought I had a timing issue (correlation) and or sell it for cheap.
You're welcome, I am glad I could help. I apologize for the response being late, but youtube doesn't like to send me notifications sometimes.
Yeah that does sound like a sucky job to replace the valve cover gaskets hopefully I don't have to do that thanks again for your advice good luck on everything else thank you
Welcome.
thank you im having the same issue but i put a new engine in on my 08 impala the engine i took out had one but the new one doesnt same codes try adding the 2nd check valve but is no place to pit the little exhaust part on
Good information. Thank you.
Welcome
Hello that was a very interesting video about the Chevy impala my issue is a lot similar to this vehicle I have a 2009 Chevy impala I put it in the shop and the mecantic had me buy a fuse box and a computer I have a brand new starter brand new battery the fuel pump works when I hook it up at the battery direct which were the problem origanly started from I had the wire going from my fuel pump to the fuse box so that I wouldn’t have to disconnect the wire ever time I killed the car I was driving it temporarily until I could figure out what the problem was because I hooked it up to the plug that it was supposed to be hooked to and it was working right again than I was driving down the road and the car died so I hooked it back to the fuse box to the fuel fuse and it worked like that than it died on me again so I hooked it up to a difrent 15amp fuse and it sparked when I hooked up the wire to the fuse but it worked and when I was driven all of a sudden all the dashboard lights went off and the car acted like it wanted to die on me but it didn’t I drove it about 10 miles to my destination and when I went to crank up to leave it wouldn’t crank I tried to boost it off and it wouldn’t boost off I had it towed to the shop because I had this problem a cold months back and he told me all he had to do was wiggle the relay fuse to the fuel pump and that’s all it was so he had me buy a fuse box and replaced it and that didn’t do it than he told me to buy a computer from the junkyard for a car the same year and make and model so that it wouldn’t need to be programmed and that didn’t do it when I stick a wire in the starter relay at the top right and the bottom left the starter will turn over but it ain’t cranking plus my fuel pump ain’t kicking on I got my test light and checked all my fuses and the biggest mijardy of the fuses r reading hot so we’re do u think my problem is this is my only transportation that I have and it been broke down for over a month now and I don’t know what the problem is I been looking on utube to c if I can c if ther is something close to the same problem if ther is something that u know that I can do tochk this car out I would be forever greatful and would appreciate it so much and if u know what todo to fix it I will bring it to u unless u want to come to my house however u would prefer
Well I am from central new york, so I don't know where you are at, but I do know a mechanic who is big on youtube. He is in south western NY. His channel is South Main Auto Repair LLC. He does a lot of electrical work and good quality work. He has worked with these impala's electrical issues many times before. He has an electrical business and his information and address can be easily found.
Try your crankshaft position sensor it made my car stall at every light hard to start it to
Yeah thanks again I did power wash underneath the car the transmission and the oil pan because there was a lot of oil and grease I didn't get a chance to look under there but I did notice a smell of burning oil through my air vents but I checked the oil once a week and there is no white smoke or blue smoke that mean burning oil if it was black smoke then it would mean oil got into the Pistons but none of that is happening and like I said there is no drips in the garage but since I power washed all underneath their I have not smelled any oil burning I checked around the heads for a blown head gasket but usually it would be a mixture of oil and antifreeze so that's not the issue yeah they're great cars this is my third Impala and why I got it is because I got a deal for my brother-in-law a 2009 Chevy Malibu and there's a solenoid problem with that it would not go into drive or 4th gear rather and that was going to be a big job and I'm like hell no the only time this Impala 2009 slips to transmission that's when the ABS traction control engine light comes on and them codes that I gave you so hopefully the throttle pedal would help or I might need a new throttle body and I got to check those wiring harness on the ABS
You may have a valve cover leak possibly, it maybe slow. Like I said before monitor it and see if it seems to be leaking. That job kind of sucks just because you have to take apart the side part of the motor to get off the rear valve cover. The coolant flows through a large housing that also holds the alternator, which must be removed to get to the rear valve cover. Anyway, best of luck with the car. I guess we will have to see what happens.
I’m having the same problem with my 2013 Chevy Tahoe ppv I change the tb an pedal
Thanks for the tip!
No problem!
Great video
Thanks!
That was exactly my problem the egr valve
Hey my 2008 Chevy Impala has tht code and says reduce engine power. It won't start it does once in a while and just cranks. I'm not sure what's going on my dad got it to start by spraying gas into the throttle body so idk what's going on I had the reduce engine power before becuz of some bare wires tht go to the bottom of the motor tht got fixed now it's saying reduce engine power again and not wanting to start just crank. I can get it to start once in a while but tht is it anya ideas? I do have tht same code as well as tht 5volt reference code and EVAP code I changed the crank sensor before becuz we thought the first engine reduce power was tht n it was just the bad wires. So at this point idk
Well unfortunately you didn't give me the exact codes it is spitting out, but I can tell you that the new crank sensor you put in may be an issue. The reason I think it may be the crank sensor is due to the fact it started off of that spraying gas. This tells me that the injectors are not firing either at the right time, or at all. If the crank signal is really far off this will happen because it doesn't have good timing. It also wouldn't be the first time I have seen new parts have issues. I have had people in the comments have that type of issue. I can also tell you more than likely you have more than one issue causing your troubles. If I could get the exact codes that may be helpful in this situation.
I have a Chevy Impala 2009, have changed the throttle body and accelerator pedal sensor, car just decided while I was driving one day to go into Reduced Power Mode and wouldn’t let me go over 40mph. The RPM gauge won’t move at all, even when just putting the car in the “on” position, it won’t even sit at 0 RPM. The car is shaking at idle and shakes even more when driving it. I was able to limp the car to Autozone to find the P0651 code, I’m thinking it may be the crankshaft sensor since the RPM gauge isn’t moving?? What else could there be?
It is possible that one of the new parts you installed is faulty. New doesn't necessarily mean good. Especially if they are not OEM. I have helped people in this comment section that have actually replaced the part that was creating the problem in the first place and the part they put on being broken too. I am not saying it is couldn't be the crank sensor, since it could be. I am not sure if it would work, but try to unplug either the throttle body, or accelerator pedal sensor(try one at a time) and see if the RPM gauge does anything then. If it does something with it unplugged you may have found your issue, If in fact the problem is affecting the RPM gauge(if not a separate issue). If the Can-bus system is overwhelmed usually by a short, it can do weird things throughout the car like affect the rpm gauge.
Yes that is the problem
I know this video is old but I’m having a problem with a 2012 impala LTZ every time I press too hard on the pedal at a stop lights or stop sign, my car, jerk, and the RPMs stop working sometimes it goes into reduce power. Sometimes it don’t but when it happens the RPMs stop working pull over shut the car off. Wait a couple minutes started back up RPMs are working again. Throttlebody has been replaced recently, but still have the same problem, replace the pedal from Amazon about a year ago, do you think it could be the pedal?
Was it happening before you got the replacement pedal from amazon?
I was having problems with reduce power before I replace the pedal, someone recommended I replace the pedal to solve the reduce power. Problem but the car jerking if I press to hard on the pedal and RPMs stop working that problem didn’t start until after I replace the pedal wasn’t happening before and it didn’t immediately start happening but it did start happening after I replace the pedal
@@curtiscarey580 Sorry that I didn't respond sooner. I believe it maybe the pedal. Obviously I am not there to test it, so it is more or less a guessing game for me. However, I have seen many times before(in this comment section) that the aftermarket pedals are pretty much junk from day 1. The best way to go is to get one from a brand with good quality(a/c delco(aka GM Genuine), NTK). I know it is expensive, but it saves a lot of headache down the road.
The fact that you are still responding!!!! Much respect. I have 2135 code showing up. My wires look good. Changed catalyic converter and pedal a couple of years ago. STillhaving this issue . Any suggestions?
@@derbydog02
@@johnstamos4325 You may want to look into the throttle body. Don't rule out the pedal either, new doesn't always mean good, or in this case still good. I wouldn't mess with the catalytic converter in this situation. If you can get a hold of a scanner that can tell you the pedal position and the throttle body position. This may help you to diagnose the issue from there(basically you are looking if they are close to each other). Let me know what happens.
2008 impala 3.9 throwing a p2127 and reduced power but cut the car off and let it cool a sec the start and it's drivable
That would be for Accelerator Pedal Position sensor(APP) sensor. Of course in this video we can see that just because it threw that particular code doesn't mean it is necessarily that part that is bad. If it is actually the part mentioned that is a unit with the gas pedal attached essentially. That is a variable resistor that when it gets too warm could fail. Now there is a possibility that it is actually the throttle body, because the two correlate to open the throttle correctly. The best way to know which one is acting up would be to hook up a scan tool and look at the data output of each. If they match, wait for the problem to occur then look at the correlation. If one is way off then you know that particular module maybe the issue. Not a guarantee, but it is better than the parts cannon.
I have a 2009 Chevy Impala same exact motor and the air cleaner setup I have a lot of codes codes P0442 P0451 P162B C0040 purge valve speed sensor the throttle gas pedal that I already ordered hopefully I don't have to change the throttle body but you didn't explain what you changed in there I don't know what that thing is what is it called I erased all my codes the only stupid code that comes up is the on the dashboard is the tire pressure gauge and they're too expensive I'm not even worried about that but every once in a while it would say reduce speed traction control abs and all them codes would show up so I'm changing the gas throttle foot pedal first hopefully that would go away and I definitely probably got to get a wire harness on the ABS right front passenger side yeah I got a good deal on the car too probably because of these issues and it only has 90,000 miles on it
I didn't have any of those codes there. Everything in my second 5 volt rail was fine other than the secondary air check valve. It was shorted causing this issue. Your situation is completely different. The p0442, p0451 are probably related to each other. C0040 is obviously its own code and it is either the harness or the wheel bearing itself(both do fail). The p162b is gonna be the code you are actually concerned about as far as the reduced power. Did you try to clean the throttle body? That seems to be an issue with these cars.
Thanks for your fast reply I just fixed the driver's having no heat that's nothing to do with the codes but it was a pain in the ass but I jacked up the car and the hub bearings are good I got to check the ABS wires the throttle body looks clean I did order a throttle pedal for one of the codes that will be coming in this Friday but it seems like when I turn hard left the ABS and traction control will come on the engine light only came on once since I had it for only a week now and I cleared it there is no misfire so I'm going to see when I put in this throttle pedal hopefully everything goes away if not then I'm going to have to do the wire harness on the ABS and I get two of them for like 30 bucks off of Amazon but I got to order a soldering kit to side of the wires correctly and shrink wrap it the wires but at first I thought my car was different because on the air cleaner box you have the exact same thing as I do it was a pain in the ass trying to get that new air cleaner in because there's a hose on the left top side of the airbox and I never seen that on an Impala before except for yours if you know what I mean it's a big hose on the airbox on the top left side of it all the other 3.5 Motors doesn't have that and mine's just a regular LT 3.5 but I do have a sunroof and the garage door opener thing that I still can't set on the garage door just minor things but I love Impalas I had a 2017 for a year and I loved it the new body style 305 horsepower 3.6 and the dealer ripped me off with the paying the extra $1,500 for 50,000 Mi powertrain warranty I want through water and water got into the intake that sees the motor and that powertrain warranty just screwed me over so I had them take the car I said if you guys ain't going to repair it and rip me off on the powertrain warranty I ain't paying for a car that I can't drive so I got a good deal on this car and it's paid off just modern things that I got to do thank you very much for getting back to me
@@TheMikevolbeat Yeah no problem with the quick response. I try to get back as soon as I see it. Sometimes youtube will not give me a notification for awhile if it does so in the first place. Anyways, yeah definitely sounds like a wiring issue with that abs. Very common. Yes that big pipe is for the air pump, it is attached right in front of bottom of motor and the transmission where they connect. Keep an eye on the motor oil as the 3.5 does like to leak oil!!! They are great motors, but they do have a few issues and leaking a bunch of oil is definitely one of the them! Don't overfill it though as you will blow out more seals. Hopefully you have better luck with it. They really are good cars, but it is important to just keep up with the fluids. If the transmission ever acts up it is probably the solenoids(that is if it is shifting funny and slipping in drive). That is a big job, but the newer impala's have a similar issue as well. If you have any more questions on what is common impala issues lmk, because I think I have owned 9 or 10 of them. Specifically 2006-2011. I also have owned a 2001 and a 2016 Impala limited(old body style is why it was a limited). They started putting the 3.6 v6 in 2012 and carried on until they discontinued the impala.
Just replaced throttle body an pedal it ideas fine for a minute or so then goes in to engine power reduced would you happen to have an idea why ?
It can be a few things. One the replacement throttle body could be bad, remember just because it is new doesn't mean it cannot be broken. Or maybe the problem is not the throttle body at all? Is the car throwing a trouble code?
@@derbydog02 the throttle body is doing is job from what I see an hear an I'm assuming the pedal is too too me it just flat out crazy ... I fried the starter or it fried it self cause the battery was dead an I kept trying to start it getting new one tomorrow but just wondering can it be that ?
@@yettirc I still would suggest getting the trouble codes out of it. I cannot really help you if you cannot get those.
@@derbydog02 I Shure will thanks man
I have a 08 Impala showing codes P2127,P2138,P2122. The service traction control light comes on at the same time and the car goes into reduced power mode. I have changed the pedal position sensor, that wasn’t the problem. Any suggestions?
Okay so I got a few things for ya here. First make sure that you have a good part. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Check for correct power + ground at pedal sensor. But before that I would have a decent scanner that would show data parameters. Check correlation between throttle body and pedal. See which one is off. More than likely it will show pedal sensor, but I have heard of the throttle bodies having issues and the car will throw codes for the pedal(false accusing the pedal of being bad while it is actually the throttle body). I am assuming the traction control light comes on between it may turn traction control off as it puts the car into limp mode(as it throws a particular code). At 2:47 in my video you can see what wires you may have to test to see if this is a wiring issue. It could still be another sensor shorting out but from what the codes are I kind of doubt it. If you have any questions/concerns feel free to ask.
@@derbydog02 I did buy a second pedal sensor recently with same results. I will test the power and ground wires as you suggested. Thanks for the response!
Update* After replacing the pedal sensor twice I began testing the power and ground wires for the pedal sensor. Everything checked out fine. I then started looking at the throttle body sensor. After checking the wiring for the throttle body for broken wires I tested the ohms of resistance between the different pins on the throttle body sensor as outlined in another video on UA-cam. The tests on the throttle body sensor showed I had a good throttle body sensor, however I was out of ideas and replaced the throttle body. The car still threw codes and went into limp mode. I then started switching back and forth between the two pedal sensors and observing the live data on a cheap code reader I had borrowed. They both had abnormal voltage readings but at different rpm’s and one would throw the code much quicker than the other. I returned the pedal sensor for yet another. Third pedal sensor finally fixed the problem. Took three replacement pedal sensors to get one that was good!
You were very correct when you said just because the part is new doesn’t mean it’s good! Thanks for your ideas! They ultimately helped me track down my problem.
@@rogerchristinanewell1770 Unlucky, but at least it is fixed! I am glad I could help!
@@rogerchristinanewell1770 where did you buy you acelerator pedal?
Do you know if the 3.9 engine has a secondary valve and where its located please 🙏
I believe some* did come with secondary check valve, and it is in the same location on the 3.5 as it is on the 3.9 from what I can tell. If you don't see it on your car how it is on my car then you don't have one. If you don't have one it is just one part of that same circuit you can eliminate.
Ok i looked and it donsent have one my car has small vibration at idle and after driving for a while reduced engine power and traction control light comes and then it strarts to have a bad missfire you think crankshaft position sensor could be the problem?
@@littlegiannigutierrez5071 The small vibration at idle could be motor mounts. Every impala that I have owned(5 of them now) that had a bad motor mount vibrated while in idle. That motor mount specifically is the one on the passenger side(lower mount). I kind of doubt it would be the crankshaft position because of the fact that it takes awhile to do it, but I suppose it is possible. Sounds maybe a bit more like throttle body, but don't throw the parts cannon at it. That will get expensive very quickly.
@@derbydog02 took it to dealership and they replaced wifes going from gas pedad to throttle body and wires from throttle body to ecm and still no fix also someone before me put new gas pedal a d throttle body i am 1000$ in this and can't find the fix
@@littlegiannigutierrez5071 I wish you said that you were going to bring it to a dealership because more than half the time they have little to no idea what they are doing. Just because it is new doesn't necessary mean it is good. I had a person in the comments say they replaced the pedal twice before it was fixed. At least you know it is more than likely a sensor now that the harness has been replaced. However, it could be the wiring leading to something else. That is where something like a power probe or multi-meter come in handy. Keep in mind the crankshaft position sensor and maybe ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor run off of that 5v system. It is possible one of the two others is shorted out causing an issue. Remember that was happening with my car.
Since there is no way to really test a check valve like this without putting it on and running the vehicle for several days, how do you know that you will get a good part at a junk yard?
This one was actually an immediate fail because it shorted internally, but you raise a good question. The answer is you have to take a gamble at the junk yard, at least that is what I did. I am sure there is a way to test the check valve with a multi-meter, but I would have to look at the wiring for it. Luckily for me the one I got at the junkyard was good, and these do not fail too often enough to be very worried about it.
@@derbydog02 I want to know a way to test it ... For a year now my daughter has had a cel of this on an 08 impala....just today it started showing a reduced power showing an 0651 with the CELs for the check Valves.
@@kdeh21803 If you pull the plug on the sensor itself as shown in the video the car should run better if that is the problem. This is the way we tested it. ALLDATA did not have the wiring diagram so I cannot tell you which wires are which. More than likely what you are experiencing is what happened to this Impala if it runs better after unplugging the check valve. If it doesn't come out of limp mode and nothing else on that 5 volt system is bad, then you have a wiring issue going to the check valve. Remember also that a P0651 doesn't necessarily mean it is the check valve.
@@derbydog02 The engine does not change in it's running with plug on of off.....
@@kdeh21803 Then more than likely it is not the check valve. It probably has to do the components shown at 2:07.
I can’t find my sensor, it’s not sitting on top like yours. Where else could it be?
Some impala's don't have a secondary air check valve. Therefore, I am pretty sure in your case you may not have one. What year is your impala?
@@derbydog02 2010
@@selfmadeentertainmentt I recommend that you look into the other 5 volt reference circuits shown in this video on those wiring diagrams. One of those sensors is probably your issue.
What about codes p0842 and p1811
Those are codes related to the transmission. I would bet on a shift solenoid being bad just going based off what I know. I know the older 4t65-e was known for it, I am not sure how common it is that the newer ones do it. Either way we have had a 2006 Buick Lacrosse that has had one fail and a Monte Carlo that we have currently that had one fail. It actually did send out the p1811 code and it was shifting pretty bad. I would bet that is the issue. Pretty involved job, ideal to do on a lift. You have to drop the sub-frame and pull the side cover off the transmission and have to know which one of the solenoids is bad. I cant remember which one it was off the top of my head. If you look around you will find it pretty quickly since it is so common to fail.
Can u drive car without the check valve wires hooked up ?
yes, the check engine light will be on, but it should drive.
@@derbydog02 would it burn the motoer up
I really need help with my car
I have a p2127 code is that a sensor problem with the pedal
Yes, going off of alldata. It says that the code appears when "The ECM detects the APP(accelerator pedal position) sensor 2 voltage is less than .32 v for more than 1 second". The sensor should be 5 volts, but instead it is too low or 0 volts.
@@derbydog02 thank you
@@wasubi100 No problem
@@wasubi100 Welcome
Wasubi100 did it fix the problem changing the pedal sensor ?
my 2010 Chevrolet Impala don't starter. I took to the starter to a mechanic they told me is not the starter. It was the wiring.
There is quite a bit more that needs to be checked. Is the starter relay functioning? Is the inline fuse that goes to the starter(you will notice it) any good?
What about 2011 malibu p0651
Depends on what motor it has I think. The 4 cylinder motor(I am assuming this one since it is more common) appears to only have two components on the 5 volt rail. That being accelerator peddle and the throttle body.
@@derbydog02 it's a 4 cylinder
Ice cars are junk cars...I got the exact same care but it's blowing fuses intermittently and taking out my dash.
Generally really good cars. Problem is sometimes people mess with the wiring and end up making it way worse(either then or down the line).
My 09 Impala doesn't have that valve!
Yes, not all of the Impala have that valve. If you are having these issues just eliminate from the equation. That means it could be the crankshaft position sensor, throttle body, engine coolant temp sensor, or the accelerator pedal sensor.
@@derbydog02 Ok cool, I actually started off with the TPS and it ran like crap after disconnecting. Reconnected it and now it runs fine, left it idling for a good while and still good, but I wonder if running it on the street will make it mess up again. Thanks very much for your video and help I greatly appreciate it.
@@Tamagumo could have been as simple as a bad electrical connection too. I have had these Impala's have issues because the transmission control module plug wasn't happy and simply unplugged it and plugged back in and it was okay. The contacts don't even necessarily need to be corroded. Anyway hopefully you have fixed the issue. If not, feel free to ask me any questions! Welcome for the video too.
I've replaced that sensor three times though! Once aftermarker and twice OEM from the junkyard. I even tried a different PCM, and every time the same issue. I'm gonna drive it tomorrow and see what happens, thanks again. @@derbydog02
The issue came back! This has happened in the past after installing a new TPS, ok for a while then problem comes back. The 2 week fix this time though came from running car with TPS disconnected. During this time though car was running fine, I was getting code P0315 for the crankshaft position sensor which had not shown up in the past. You think the phantom menace has finally revealed itself? I just don't get how the TPS would be affected @@derbydog02
My car has to reduce power it's a 2011
What trouble codes does it have.
@@derbydog02 reduce power light comes on and it goes off in the car runs fine when the reduced power comes on the gas pedal seems to slow down the car
@@kingmorales103 Yes the car will go slower in reduced power mode(also called Limp mode) because it prevents the motor from being hurt in any kind of way. What I am asking for are the trouble codes that are in the computer. You will need to get a scanner to hook up to the car and you can look at pending codes, or history codes. If the reduced power mode is not active then it may be in the history codes. The reason I ask is due to the fact it could be many different issues.
P0651 Code: Sensor Reference Voltage “B” Circuit / Open on a Chevy 2011 what would that be ?