Replaced my clutch master cylinder today because pedal was going to the floor and not returning to upright position. Couldn't change gears. Could not remove the plastic pipe at the slave cylinder end. Tried for ages. Saw this vid and thought I'd give it a go and to my surprise it went exactly as you said. I used a small drill bit and hammer to drive the roll pin out. Bleeding was a nightmare but eventually I got a semi hard pedal, enough to be able to change gears. I am hoping that any remaining air bubbles will work themselves out over time. Thank you so much for taking the time to provide us with your video. I would have been stuck without transport without your vid. Cheers
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 Your welcome, I'm glad you found it useful. The problem with bleeding is air gets sucked back in around the bleep nipple that's on the end of a pipe, that's why I couldn't vacuum bleed the system, I found that undoing it about half a turn lets enough fluid out and not much air in, especially if you let the pedal spring back quickly.
@@austendallaston3537 Thanks for the reply. Did you have someone help you bleed the system? How do you pump the pedal and keep the tint reservoir from running dry?
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 no worries, I use a bleed tube with a one way valve in it, and more than 3 pumps on the pedal, to top up the master find a clean bottle that you can attach a piece of tube to, much easier than from the fluid bottle, if you have another brake fluid bottle make a hole in the top a push some tube though, must be a tight fit or it will leak. For the tube, I've got a quantity of screen washer tube that I find perfect for bleeding purposes. I hope this helps. By the way I carry a bleed kit with me now lol
Looks like I bought the same cylinder and was thinking of doing just what you did. At least it saves time gaining access to the connector. Did the same thing on my Rover 75... Are you sure that the sliding collar isn't on the slave side of the connector?
If you fill the reservoir to about 1cm from the top, when you put the lid on the rubber diaphragm will spill some out. That way you know it's full with no air gap.
@@kemourdrummond7914 if the biting point is near the top of the pedals travel where it should be, then it sounds like you have a problem with the clutch it's self
Replaced my clutch master cylinder today because pedal was going to the floor and not returning to upright position. Couldn't change gears.
Could not remove the plastic pipe at the slave cylinder end. Tried for ages.
Saw this vid and thought I'd give it a go and to my surprise it went exactly as you said. I used a small drill bit and hammer to drive the roll pin out.
Bleeding was a nightmare but eventually I got a semi hard pedal, enough to be able to change gears. I am hoping that any remaining air bubbles will work themselves out over time.
Thank you so much for taking the time to provide us with your video. I would have been stuck without transport without your vid. Cheers
@@JazzFunkNobby1964
Your welcome, I'm glad you found it useful. The problem with bleeding is air gets sucked back in around the bleep nipple that's on the end of a pipe, that's why I couldn't vacuum bleed the system, I found that undoing it about half a turn lets enough fluid out and not much air in, especially if you let the pedal spring back quickly.
@@austendallaston3537 Thanks for the reply. Did you have someone help you bleed the system? How do you pump the pedal and keep the tint reservoir from running dry?
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 no worries, I use a bleed tube with a one way valve in it, and more than 3 pumps on the pedal, to top up the master find a clean bottle that you can attach a piece of tube to, much easier than from the fluid bottle, if you have another brake fluid bottle make a hole in the top a push some tube though, must be a tight fit or it will leak. For the tube, I've got a quantity of screen washer tube that I find perfect for bleeding purposes. I hope this helps. By the way I carry a bleed kit with me now lol
@@austendallaston3537 Thanks. Think I'll keep a bleed kit on board too haha.
Smart Hack ! Simple, well thought out.
Nice hack! Do you know if the cylinder use brake liquid? Cheers
Looks like I bought the same cylinder and was thinking of doing just what you did. At least it saves time gaining access to the connector. Did the same thing on my Rover 75...
Are you sure that the sliding collar isn't on the slave side of the connector?
Defo no collar anywhere, actually I've just changed that cylinder again as it failed internally, (cheep eBay part lol)
@@austendallaston3537Oh crap.. I don't need the hassle of having to do it a second time..lol..
My own fault, cheap part, I'll cross my fingers lol
Hey buddy why did you change it ? I’ve got a very low bitting point on my td4 thinking I need to replace this ????? Thanks
Mine was low and then it just gave up, have you tried bleeding it?
Yes it does, Dot3 or Dot4
what is the oil mark?
If you fill the reservoir to about 1cm from the top, when you put the lid on the rubber diaphragm will spill some out. That way you know it's full with no air gap.
Slave cylinder is in the bell housing, nightmare, clutch slipping badly, probably contaminated plate from leaking slave
Gearbox out, new plate, new cover and that's the time to change the slave as it is the release bearing.even if its ok
How to adjusted if hard going to gear
There is no adjustment, try bleeding it making sure you don't empty the master (it is very small). If that doesn't work then replace it
I already change it to day just like how you do it but hard going to gear
@@kemourdrummond7914 if the biting point is near the top of the pedals travel where it should be, then it sounds like you have a problem with the clutch it's self
This morning I have get the car into gear I top the master cylinder with clutch fuel it drive ok thanks again
@@kemourdrummond7914 your welcome, I'm glad you got it sorted