The shock shaft is actually a hex-head screw. If you poke your Allen wrench down into the shock body after taking off the top cap, it makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the bottom shock eye.
Thanks! I was originally planning to order the HR shocks, but they were out of stock at that time, so I figured I will see if I can mod it first, and pick one up...but it's working fairly well, so I might stick with stock shocks for now.
Just getting into 24 scale and your videos are the best I have found. Green Slime added to shocks but I missed the preload bit out as I used the 3mm preload clips from the 3d print video. Please keep the videos coming.
@@davedhayden I have not tried any other kind of shocks, but I am pretty happy with modded stock shocks that I am no longer looking for a new shock solution.
@@BigSungHobbies I just might. I noticed that Rock Lox tires that I had bought..look to be the same size as those that come stock on the Gladiator. Had also purchase beadlock rims. Should I just try them out ?
It will be much better than stock tires just not as good as Patagonia, Rock Creeper and Hyrax. Since you already have them, I said you should install them.
@@BigSungHobbies Thanks, I think so too..originally I bought them for the Bolt. You're an RC specialist. Just bashed the Slash...I have Street Fighters on it. She's mean! Have a good day!
Thanks for the comment. The video was uploaded quite few months back, and I have tons of running videos. I still run the modded shocks on most of my rigs, so that's a testament.
I have the same rig. I had a shock break. Do you have a recommendation for replacements? I’d like to just buy r news ones and I figure I might as well upgrade
I never thought of it, but I think it should work especially since it’s only a dab that you need. If you have access to marine grease that will work as well.
@@BigSungHobbies Thank you for the answer! I also noticed in some of your videos that the shocks are mounted upside down, is there an advantage to mount them like that or only for looks?
@@illusion347 Every little bit helps to lower the cog. In 1/10 scale world, I think it makes a bigger difference. But for 1/24, it's probably so small that it doesn't make a difference. But the main reason I went this route is that the leakage usually happens through the shock shaft. By having the shock body in the bottom, I feel that it helps with minimizing the leakage of green slime.
I think i saw a video you made where you added BB's to the fake shock reservoir... can you point me to that video? Sorry if it wasn't you and thanks in advance.
Thanks for reaching out. But I don't believe that was me. I usually cut off the fake shock reservoir for cleaner look. There are other ways of adding weight.
Amount of static tension or “preload” on the spring allows you to compensate for the amount the spring compresses under the RC weight and also affects the RC's ride height (the height of the chassis over the ground).
Adding pre-load will raise ride height, which is good for clambering over objects. Adding pre-load can also reduce available travel on some shocks, but that is not a factor on the SCX24 stock shocks because the barrel is relatively long because the small scale.
Thanks , I am old an just getting back in rc for my grand kids , lots have changed in 40 yrs 😆
Thanks for checking out my videos, and glad that you are getting back to RC especially for your gran kids. Let me know if you have any questions.
My first rc was a wired fire truck. When I was a kid. I won it in a drawing for Christmas. You had to walk with it while controlling it 😂
The shock shaft is actually a hex-head screw. If you poke your Allen wrench down into the shock body after taking off the top cap, it makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the bottom shock eye.
Ahh good to know! Thanks for the info!
Can you use a longer screw = more travel?
@@joepiper6064 yes but the shock will only travel as big as it is.shaft may be long but the shock body is smaller
SCX24's smartest shocks mod i came by. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I was originally planning to order the HR shocks, but they were out of stock at that time, so I figured I will see if I can mod it first, and pick one up...but it's working fairly well, so I might stick with stock shocks for now.
@@BigSungHobbies just got the rig and planning to mod it " el cheepo" style, without aftermarket parts .
@@ambaradan66 Take a look at the steering link video as well, it should fix the slop issue.
@@BigSungHobbies Done... :D
@@ambaradan66 Awesome.
Just getting into 24 scale and your videos are the best I have found. Green Slime added to shocks but I missed the preload bit out as I used the 3mm preload clips from the 3d print video. Please keep the videos coming.
Thanks! The preload clips works better than o-rings. At that time, I did not have 3d printer, so used the next best thing.
Informative video ! Strategic Hot glue application and some marine grease in between the coils and shock shafts works also.
Good to know. Thanks for the info.
Great video! Thanks friend.
Thanks for watching!
I used a metal straw cut spacers fit over the shock and flipped the shock to keep the weight low
Sounds like a good mod 👍
Big thumbs up from Bradypat RC, thanks for sharing that buddy 👍
Thanks for checking it out as always! Much appreciate it!
I kinda did the same thing, 3d printed spring spacers and grease inside the shock, great info keep it coming
Thanks. If I had access to 3d printer, I might have gone that route as well, but surprisingly the o-ring is easily accessible and works well.
@@davedhayden I have not tried any other kind of shocks, but I am pretty happy with modded stock shocks that I am no longer looking for a new shock solution.
That's a great idea. I might do that too. Thanks!
Thanks and go for it! It makes a huge difference.
@@BigSungHobbies I just might. I noticed that Rock Lox tires that I had bought..look to be the same size as those that come stock on the Gladiator. Had also purchase beadlock rims. Should I just try them out ?
It will be much better than stock tires just not as good as Patagonia, Rock Creeper and Hyrax. Since you already have them, I said you should install them.
@@BigSungHobbies Thanks, I think so too..originally I bought them for the Bolt. You're an RC specialist. Just bashed the Slash...I have Street Fighters on it. She's mean! Have a good day!
I definitely will use the peload by using the orings
I find that 3mm of preload works well. And make sure to add a dab of thick grease for dampening and reverse mount it. It helps with leakage.
What a well made video man!
Much appreciated!
Super helpful and very detailed. Thanks! You just earned a new sub!
Awesome, thank you! And welcome to the channel.
U really should show the difference b4 and after on the truck and running the truck
Thanks for the comment. The video was uploaded quite few months back, and I have tons of running videos. I still run the modded shocks on most of my rigs, so that's a testament.
Check out Kinetic Double Barrel shock upgrade, More travel same stance.
Thanks for the info.
I have been waiting for weeks for those to come back in stock
I have the same rig. I had a shock break. Do you have a recommendation for replacements? I’d like to just buy r news ones and I figure I might as well upgrade
I heard good things about the HR oil filled shocks, but I have not used it.
Great tutorial! Do you think I could use vaseline instead of green slime?
I never thought of it, but I think it should work especially since it’s only a dab that you need. If you have access to marine grease that will work as well.
@@BigSungHobbies Thank you for the answer!
I also noticed in some of your videos that the shocks are mounted upside down, is there an advantage to mount them like that or only for looks?
@@illusion347 Every little bit helps to lower the cog. In 1/10 scale world, I think it makes a bigger difference. But for 1/24, it's probably so small that it doesn't make a difference. But the main reason I went this route is that the leakage usually happens through the shock shaft. By having the shock body in the bottom, I feel that it helps with minimizing the leakage of green slime.
@@BigSungHobbies Thanks for the knowledge haha. I’m new to this hobby world. Love your channel, really helpful!
Hehe, we all start somewhere! Glad that you are enjoying the hobby as much as I am.
I saw that intro somewhere else and I just realized it was a template
Yes, it is. It captured what I wanted.
Great video
Thank you 🙏
I think i saw a video you made where you added BB's to the fake shock reservoir... can you point me to that video? Sorry if it wasn't you and thanks in advance.
Thanks for reaching out. But I don't believe that was me. I usually cut off the fake shock reservoir for cleaner look. There are other ways of adding weight.
@@BigSungHobbies thanks! I love your videos btw. Great info for a beginner like myself.
Thanks. Glad to hear that the info is helpful.
What does adding preload do to the ride quality? Or overall effect? Thanks!
Amount of static tension or “preload” on the spring allows you to compensate for the amount the spring compresses under the RC weight and also affects the RC's ride height (the height of the chassis over the ground).
Adding pre-load will raise ride height, which is good for clambering over objects. Adding pre-load can also reduce available travel on some shocks, but that is not a factor on the SCX24 stock shocks because the barrel is relatively long because the small scale.
nice mod,cool video
Thank you!
Where do I get the small tube of green slime?
I picked up mine from Ebay. ebay.us/FUbTH9
What size wrench for the wheel nut
I think it's a 3mm wrench. It came with my RC4WD tires, so not quite sure.
4 mm! Just got one myself. It was the smallest they had at my local auto parts store.
@@Simnettnutrition Harbor Freight has a o-ring kit. It's been tremendously useful.