Seeing a PSP always makes me think of my little sister. She was a kid when the PSP came out, and I used to get after her because she'd play it until the battery completely died, then she'd charge it for five minutes, and then play for two until it died again. I repeatedly told her to stop it before she ruined the battery but she never listened.
Having dismantled a DS lite, a PSP and a PSVita, I would say that the PSP is the easiest. Just have to take your time, be patient and be gentle with it 😅. Just like what Steve did. Great job! 👏
I am terrible at replacing those ribbon cable connectors...I have tried at least 10 times and I always end up melting part of it...I have gotten several to work, but they were ugly when I was done! lol...Great video as always!
What a beautiful device. My parents could never afford a PSP when I was younger, despite how much I wanted one. Never had one, probably never will, but I still wish I had one. Minidisc and UMD fascinate me.
Steve im glad to see you look healthy again man i was worried about ya i love all your videos man thanks for this one your channel is my fix man lol i recently got into restoring Nintendo 64's and YOU were the inspiration my guy.. Thank you for everything you do!
That blue shell psp is gorgeous. Other regions had their own flavor of blue but I also reckon that, at least the shell, is a Japanese one. Haven’t seen that color elsewhere myself.
For removing that fuse next to the port, you should get the Metcal Talon, it's basically a dual tip soldering iron that can open and close like tweezers and allows you to just grab and desolder a part all in one step.
The psp was the first thing I ever repaired. My co worker failed to rehouse his psp 3000 and was going to throw it away. I took it and repaired it with the housing of his choice. It makes me happy to see you repair one! :)
unasked tip: you can remove the fuse without hot air the same way you soldered the fuse with just the soldering iron and a bit of soldering tin (you melted the plastic from the charging port anyways)
I recommend Zeiss Lens Wipes for cleaning the screen and the protector, and Polywatch for removing fine scratches on the outside of the protector/ case.
I’ve replaced so many locking tabs without replacing the ZIF connector cause it’s so much faster. I feel you that they are fragile but once you see how they are supposed to clip in, and each one is different, it’s way easier and quicker.
Not a jpn only colour, I'm in the UK and my youngest had this vibrant blue and my eldest had the radiant red one xmas. They still have them, albeit with dead batteries now.
I have this colour PSP model. It's sooo pretty on my shelf. I need to do an IPS mod for it like my white PSP 1000. Sadly the blue isn't a Japan exclusive.
In europe you could buy the PSP 3004 in "carnival colors" like vibrant blue and radiant red too. But yours is a PSP 3001D (seen inside battery compartment). The 01 on the end is the country code, in your case it's north america, the D is for a later revision of the 3001. Japan would be 3000.
I bought mine Vibrant Blue PSP 300 for equivalent of about about 60 USD about 3 years ago. Spend another 10 USD for parts. I played and completed 3 Final Fantasy games, and both God Of Wars on it since, not to mention a lot of Everybody's Golf in local multiplayer (I have 3 different PSP's and they are all in perfect working condition, and they are sill used every month, usually by my naphews) but the blue one is used almost daily. I have quite a nice collection of consoles (PSP, PS3 Fat with PS2 BC, PS4, Famicom, Gamecube, XBox, XboX Series X, Genesis and Dreamcast) but I still PSP is the one I play the most. Maybe because I can play at most 2-3 hours a week, but still, PSP got wonderful collection of games and I am happy each time I see one in working order.
OMG had volume loud and when you went to test battery with multimeter an advert came on at the exact time you put the second probe on and it was a Pepsi max advert that said bam really loud and I jumped and thought it had shorted out, lol, first time I've jumped like that in a UA-cam video
You always do a great job repairing your products. Once you buy something from the customer and you fix the issue with their old products, can that customer buy the fixed price products back?
What do you think fixed this? Just simply reseating all the ribbon cables, bad connection with the "fuse" or the connector for the screen was already broken? Maybe not having the analog stick ribbon cable plugged in but I doubt that. I miss my PSP from back in the day. I took a "friend" in so he wasn't homeless and he stole it. Anyway good fix!
With those connectors I always line it up with the side that popped out on top of its hole laying flat and gently press down with my thumb and it always pops back into place. I never tilt it up like you did and try and push it back in bc of what happened to you. I also find using my thumb allows more even pressure across the tab instead of a point where you had your pick which caused the stress to concentrate and break.
I found a dude that was dumping "for parts or repair" PSP 1000s at $30 each on ebay a few months ago and the only real catch was that it was whatever PSP in his stash that he chose. It could have been run over by a car but still turn on, ya know? After doing that sweaty guy that needs to choose a button impression, I took the gamble and then internally rationalized wasting $30 haha. I got a blue one like what you are working on with a badly broken screen, no battery cover, the thumbstick cover was missing, there's some weird dried up gum goo on the top right corner, and mild scratching on the back. The metal disc circle thing on the back is super scratched somehow too. It does turn on though. I heard the start up noise when I put a battery in and tested it. I found a packet of multi colored thumbstick covers with a blue one in it and a new screen that is supposed to be the best screen for the PSP 1000 as of now. I also found a battery cover that is the same shade of blue. All I need now is free time to take it all apart and put it all back together. It's all just sitting there waiting for me on my soldering station. I did not know the blue version was most likely a Japanese only model though, so this will be my first Japanese console in general on top of that if it is. Thank you for that little nugget of knowledge 👍
Those LCD locking tabs are HORRIBLE no matter what. I did the same exact thing on a PSP 2000, the latch slid right off like how it happened to you, luckily I was able to get it repositioned, but I think it's common for those latches to be pretty terrible.
When putting down parts that you might be able to bump when your soldering, is it a good idea to put some kind of small dab of say glue to hold the piece in place while you're soldering?
Actually that metal thing goes on top egde of screen and its used to properly mount the screen as it holds the screen from top and then one of the top screws through it
I have around 20 Nintendo Switch and switch lites in various stages of repair and disassembly. I was wondering if you would be interested in them. I tried my hand at working on them. But I found I’m not very good at it. I have a ton of new parts too.
Well i butched my first psp around 2005 or 2006 also when i tried to fix the screen. The main problem was back then there was no teardowns i could have watched and the screws where confusing i seperated the blacks and the metal ones only to realize later there where two types. But i eventually fixed it, (baught a new case and fixed the blown fuse that the worong installed display frame blew. i wouldn't sell it but it is the one device where my c coding journey took off. I wouldn't recommand just bridging the fuse. The fuse could prevent bigger damage when the Display Frame gets bend inwards and shorts out something. I replaced the blown fuse with a self reseting one.
Omg I might've just found what could be wrong with my old psp, i took it apart recently but couldn't see what's the problem. I guess I'll try again soon😭😭😭
Steve, can you please give us an update on your health? I went through something very similar last year, neck (lymph node) and throat cancer (non-smoker). I luckily did not require chemo/radiation. All is well so far!
yeah " repair shop". Reality is most of the time its ppl that watch a UA-cam video and think they are then qualified to do component level repairs that end up breaking shit.
Hey everyone! I have a challenge for you please read if you’re interested! Today I was messing around with a circuit board, which is kinda new to me. The part is an exhaust gas temperature sensor for an Audi. The part never worked since I’ve had it, so it’s all pure learning. Once I got the circuit board out, I started testing all the fuses capacitors and fuses. All of my tests came out exactly like yours did at 11:49. EXCEPT ONE! I thought this was likely the culprit. Instead of holding a solid beep like I was used to, it beeps for a half second and stops! When I removed the resistor I tried to test if the resistor would still have the same problem. Now it’s reading the same as the other resistors but it has no beep. I’m not sure where I should go from here. There is no obvious signs of damage to the board or anything.
what if the repair shop did fix it correctly and had a broken one that they couldnt fix and swaped them out😮 i had one do it with a aspecial edition ps4 i had
I think this happened to my PS2 years ago. Went in to change the lense, got a call a week later stating the board was bad. Took it back and it was a different PS2, didn't even turn on. Small shop at the time so I kept getting a run around. Was in college and had exams so I just let it go.
Appreciate you breaking the connector so we get a true longform video 😄
5 hour crew
Seeing a PSP always makes me think of my little sister. She was a kid when the PSP came out, and I used to get after her because she'd play it until the battery completely died, then she'd charge it for five minutes, and then play for two until it died again. I repeatedly told her to stop it before she ruined the battery but she never listened.
Dang i actually got the same exact model and color like yours did 😮😮
Having dismantled a DS lite, a PSP and a PSVita, I would say that the PSP is the easiest. Just have to take your time, be patient and be gentle with it 😅. Just like what Steve did. Great job! 👏
I am terrible at replacing those ribbon cable connectors...I have tried at least 10 times and I always end up melting part of it...I have gotten several to work, but they were ugly when I was done! lol...Great video as always!
What a beautiful device. My parents could never afford a PSP when I was younger, despite how much I wanted one. Never had one, probably never will, but I still wish I had one. Minidisc and UMD fascinate me.
If you've got an android phone you can emulate psp games on there.
@@BilalKhan-ml3ht Emulators are great, but they cannot emulate the joy and feel of an actual PSP console. These are a timepiece for sure.
Ebay - I've gotten 2 (1st and 2 gen) for about $20-25 that worked fine except for a battery replacements.
i bought mine at the flea market for $30. had to fix the door on it. it can charge up & stay on for a while & the next day the battery is dead
Second best Sony system ever behind the PS2.
Steve im glad to see you look healthy again man i was worried about ya i love all your videos man thanks for this one your channel is my fix man lol i recently got into restoring Nintendo 64's and YOU were the inspiration my guy.. Thank you for everything you do!
I think this a video he recorded before the shaving.
@@wombattosDid I miss something? I mean I know about his current look but OP makes it sound like Steve went through something bad….
@@J0kerHecz He had cancer & been under chemotherapy, currently he's under complete remission :)
if i wasnt so broke i would buy a piece or two from you and have you sign them for me. you are a true artist.
Screen replacement has to be one of the easiest things to do on any psp model and for a repair shop to mess it up that bad shouldn’t be open
That blue shell psp is gorgeous. Other regions had their own flavor of blue but I also reckon that, at least the shell, is a Japanese one. Haven’t seen that color elsewhere myself.
The blue one was common in Europe too.
You sure make this look super easy. I guess with practice and the right tools it can be.
For removing that fuse next to the port, you should get the Metcal Talon, it's basically a dual tip soldering iron that can open and close like tweezers and allows you to just grab and desolder a part all in one step.
you are a friggin God since I've been looking for this exact tool for years and have been having to resort to using flux, braid and a little heat.
@@DriftKingfromTekken3 The Talon works on the MX-500, PS2E-01, STSS-01, STSS-02 units, might be others but I have used those units before.
Steve, thanks for your hard work! PSPs are my passion and I'm glad to see one more of them has survived the day)
We had Blue PSP in France too, I have one but it's an expensive model here too !
Your patience is astounding. Good for you!
The psp was the first thing I ever repaired. My co worker failed to rehouse his psp 3000 and was going to throw it away. I took it and repaired it with the housing of his choice. It makes me happy to see you repair one! :)
unasked tip: you can remove the fuse without hot air the same way you soldered the fuse with just the soldering iron and a bit of soldering tin (you melted the plastic from the charging port anyways)
Such a fiddly thing to work on, im sure id have broken more than the screen ribbon connector if I opened up one of my PSPs - Kudos on the fix fella 🤘
my man your looking better hope your more healthy now glad to see you doing well
I recommend Zeiss Lens Wipes for cleaning the screen and the protector, and Polywatch for removing fine scratches on the outside of the protector/ case.
Hey buddy. Hope your recovery is going good. Keep safe.
The component connected to pin number 3 on the memory line is usually a "capacitor" or "resistor".
I didn't realize I stopped breathing there for a while, lol. Great vid.
i think they should be screws for the L and R buttons bracket, nice repair
Can never get enough of PSPs...
I’ve replaced so many locking tabs without replacing the ZIF connector cause it’s so much faster. I feel you that they are fragile but once you see how they are supposed to clip in, and each one is different, it’s way easier and quicker.
Not a jpn only colour, I'm in the UK and my youngest had this vibrant blue and my eldest had the radiant red one xmas. They still have them, albeit with dead batteries now.
I have this colour PSP model. It's sooo pretty on my shelf. I need to do an IPS mod for it like my white PSP 1000.
Sadly the blue isn't a Japan exclusive.
Everything is always on point. Can't get enough!
Hope you see how many people love your work, even on these extended versions
In europe you could buy the PSP 3004 in "carnival colors" like vibrant blue and radiant red too.
But yours is a PSP 3001D (seen inside battery compartment). The 01 on the end is the country code, in your case it's north america, the D is for a later revision of the 3001. Japan would be 3000.
That was weird as who designs something with 2 fuses in series ? great fix......cheers.
I bought mine Vibrant Blue PSP 300 for equivalent of about about 60 USD about 3 years ago. Spend another 10 USD for parts. I played and completed 3 Final Fantasy games, and both God Of Wars on it since, not to mention a lot of Everybody's Golf in local multiplayer (I have 3 different PSP's and they are all in perfect working condition, and they are sill used every month, usually by my naphews) but the blue one is used almost daily. I have quite a nice collection of consoles (PSP, PS3 Fat with PS2 BC, PS4, Famicom, Gamecube, XBox, XboX Series X, Genesis and Dreamcast) but I still PSP is the one I play the most. Maybe because I can play at most 2-3 hours a week, but still, PSP got wonderful collection of games and I am happy each time I see one in working order.
Thats nice of you to give the guy $80 for it. I guess you can make a video after all
Really great fix Steve.
OMG had volume loud and when you went to test battery with multimeter an advert came on at the exact time you put the second probe on and it was a Pepsi max advert that said bam really loud and I jumped and thought it had shorted out, lol, first time I've jumped like that in a UA-cam video
Did I take 32 seconds to watch your new video? Well, I guess that is my new record for being the one that took me the longest to see. All my best
PD. When this coment was post, the video had 3 minutes
For the ribbon connector you should use hot air from underneath. The plastic doesnt melt at all.
You always do a great job repairing your products. Once you buy something from the customer and you fix the issue with their old products, can that customer buy the fixed price products back?
Of course it was gonna start up, there’s no way you put it all the way together and cleaned it spotless, without testing.
Steve repaired himself too. Thats why he's got his hair back. New channel name 'biotronicsfix'
Even being extra careful it's possible to mess up those ribbon connectors. I hate those clasps.
A little trick for a broken clasp shown @20:44 , just cut some thin plastic and wedge it on top of the ribbon
What do you think fixed this? Just simply reseating all the ribbon cables, bad connection with the "fuse" or the connector for the screen was already broken? Maybe not having the analog stick ribbon cable plugged in but I doubt that. I miss my PSP from back in the day. I took a "friend" in so he wasn't homeless and he stole it. Anyway good fix!
Yeah, it'd be interesting to know exactly what fixed it
Probably bad "fuse". It seemed like it wasn't getting any power.
With those connectors I always line it up with the side that popped out on top of its hole laying flat and gently press down with my thumb and it always pops back into place. I never tilt it up like you did and try and push it back in bc of what happened to you. I also find using my thumb allows more even pressure across the tab instead of a point where you had your pick which caused the stress to concentrate and break.
Come on Steve, passing the buck on that broken connector lol.
I found a dude that was dumping "for parts or repair" PSP 1000s at $30 each on ebay a few months ago and the only real catch was that it was whatever PSP in his stash that he chose.
It could have been run over by a car but still turn on, ya know?
After doing that sweaty guy that needs to choose a button impression, I took the gamble and then internally rationalized wasting $30 haha.
I got a blue one like what you are working on with a badly broken screen, no battery cover, the thumbstick cover was missing, there's some weird dried up gum goo on the top right corner, and mild scratching on the back. The metal disc circle thing on the back is super scratched somehow too.
It does turn on though. I heard the start up noise when I put a battery in and tested it.
I found a packet of multi colored thumbstick covers with a blue one in it and a new screen that is supposed to be the best screen for the PSP 1000 as of now. I also found a battery cover that is the same shade of blue.
All I need now is free time to take it all apart and put it all back together.
It's all just sitting there waiting for me on my soldering station.
I did not know the blue version was most likely a Japanese only model though, so this will be my first Japanese console in general on top of that if it is.
Thank you for that little nugget of knowledge 👍
Oh yeah time for my weekly fix ❤
That funky ribbon cable should be underneath.
Those LCD locking tabs are HORRIBLE no matter what. I did the same exact thing on a PSP 2000, the latch slid right off like how it happened to you, luckily I was able to get it repositioned, but I think it's common for those latches to be pretty terrible.
When putting down parts that you might be able to bump when your soldering, is it a good idea to put some kind of small dab of say glue to hold the piece in place while you're soldering?
Amazing work!
That was a funky repair 😂
Steve, I think you just wanted to make sure it was a long video, so you broke that connector 😂
You forgot the metal reinforcement that goes at top of the screen.
Actually that metal thing goes on top egde of screen and its used to properly mount the screen as it holds the screen from top and then one of the top screws through it
Why not just remove the black locking flap and replace that, just a thought❤
Yeah, Steve why did you have to replace the whole this why not just replace the little clip?
Didn't see it in the video - did you resolder the end mounting tabs on the connector after soldering all the pins?
I have around 20 Nintendo Switch and switch lites in various stages of repair and disassembly. I was wondering if you would be interested in them. I tried my hand at working on them. But I found I’m not very good at it. I have a ton of new parts too.
You're an electronics repair god.
Well done Steve
Well i butched my first psp around 2005 or 2006 also when i tried to fix the screen. The main problem was back then there was no teardowns i could have watched and the screws where confusing i seperated the blacks and the metal ones only to realize later there where two types. But i eventually fixed it, (baught a new case and fixed the blown fuse that the worong installed display frame blew. i wouldn't sell it but it is the one device where my c coding journey took off. I wouldn't recommand just bridging the fuse. The fuse could prevent bigger damage when the Display Frame gets bend inwards and shorts out something. I replaced the blown fuse with a self reseting one.
Well Done Sir! Great video. Take Care. You should have 200,000 subscribers at least. Thank You. 😀
I keep meaning to ask what type of flux you've been using lately? I like how clear, yet viscous it is.
I bet using a .05 higher amp fuse is far better than using a solid fuse with no short circuit.
Have you ever used superglue to hold the plastic in place while you solder the pins?
damn this was a roller coaster
Probably should have used 900 degrees on airflow 2 to remove that port. I'm finding airflow 3 melts too many surrounding parts.
That board looks like Texas holding a pew pew
Why didn’t you use hot air under the zif connector to remove and replace ?
Beautiful work as always.
Sweet color
I think that's actually a Japanese PSP cuz we did got this PSP but it was a 2001 version and that version came with Madden 09
Thank you Steve!
“That was easy!” *instantly breaks it* 😂
Omg I might've just found what could be wrong with my old psp, i took it apart recently but couldn't see what's the problem. I guess I'll try again soon😭😭😭
How rare were the pre USA psp’s with 1001 serial numbers? I had one of those and the red god of war edition
That was amazing interesting video
Why didn't you use that yellow tape or something for a heat sink around your work? It looks like you melted the latches on surrounding connections
Do you knew if the psp 2000 lcd connector is the same as in the psp3000 or psp1000?
I dont find the connector to buy
quote from tronic: "and we are just going to blow this off" BWAHAHAH.. im a child, i know.
What’s one thing you learned from this video?
Steve, can you please give us an update on your health? I went through something very similar last year, neck (lymph node) and throat cancer (non-smoker). I luckily did not require chemo/radiation. All is well so far!
You need to start using two soldering irons instead of the hot air rework station.
@@kopono Im a SMT operator, we all use two irons. I could train you in like two weeks. You would love it.
yeah " repair shop". Reality is most of the time its ppl that watch a UA-cam video and think they are then qualified to do component level repairs that end up breaking shit.
Awe! Steve broken it 😮
Bro you forgot to put that screen top holder 😅
Hi u forgot the metal shield or bar for on top of the screen that was on the starting of the video
I absolutely hate those connectors. I have broken more than I care to admit.
On this repair, do you ever check the button batteries???🤔🤔
Hey everyone! I have a challenge for you please read if you’re interested!
Today I was messing around with a circuit board, which is kinda new to me. The part is an exhaust gas temperature sensor for an Audi. The part never worked since I’ve had it, so it’s all pure learning.
Once I got the circuit board out, I started testing all the fuses capacitors and fuses. All of my tests came out exactly like yours did at 11:49. EXCEPT ONE! I thought this was likely the culprit. Instead of holding a solid beep like I was used to, it beeps for a half second and stops!
When I removed the resistor I tried to test if the resistor would still have the same problem. Now it’s reading the same as the other resistors but it has no beep.
I’m not sure where I should go from here.
There is no obvious signs of damage to the board or anything.
I forgot to say thank you to whoever responds! So thanks everyone!
Question: Do u have a website, or how can i send you my elite 2 to fix? RB doesn't work properly
Those locking tabs on the screen connecters are so fragile. Scares me everytime I go inside a PSP to change the screen
13:35 couldn't you just desolder the 2 pins with a soldering iron, to avoid damage to the port?
your awesome!!! nice work!!!!
I believe that’s the madden edition psp
what if the repair shop did fix it correctly and had a broken one that they couldnt fix and swaped them out😮 i had one do it with a aspecial edition ps4 i had
I think this happened to my PS2 years ago. Went in to change the lense, got a call a week later stating the board was bad. Took it back and it was a different PS2, didn't even turn on. Small shop at the time so I kept getting a run around. Was in college and had exams so I just let it go.
gives me Flahbacks of working on my Ninrendo DS Lite..what a NIGHTMARE~!! T---T b
Was it the fuse or the connector that fixed it
wouldn't heating the solder with a wick have worked better then heating it with the heat gun as it wouldn't blast any heat to the plastic