Thank you for this excellent video. At a time when I find so much of what is on the internet depressing or inaccurate, I am heartened to see someone who clearly knows what he is doing simply sharing a deep knowledge of a subject. And with such clarity! Again, my thanks.
Regular "green lid compound is great to tape with and is good for every coat after as well. We also use the "purple" lid mid weight this works good as well but the final product is not quite as "Hard" of a finish and scratches a little easier, but it still a good finish. Eddie
Most residential drywall codes ask for a 1/2" thickness. Some areas like garage ceilings where there is a living space above it require 5/8" drywall. Basements are a 1/2" drywall code thickness. Eddie
First @ BasementMan i respect all those who are in drywall/sealant business i've been around it all my life. To all those who advocate sanding i say to you, while it is neccisary....learning how much mud is too much vs. howmuch is neccisary is critical. Not having to sand more than you need to is king. Also one more thing if your thinking of getting bigtime into the mud business an electric sander w/shop vac attatchment is a worthwhile investment. We use Porter Cable 7800.
Hey Andrew! Thanks for stopping by my channel! I prefer to finish a longer horizontal joint at wast height than vertical joints every 4' that go from floor to ceiling. Most drywall professionals will take this route for ease of finishing. Granted there will be a few butt joints to finish along the way but... by using 10' & 12' board it's less finishing and easier on the body plus overall you will definitely save time. Eddie
Hey man it happens...even the pros get a little rusty if we take too much time off. It will all come come back to you as soon as the lid comes off the "Mud"! Good luck with your drywall project...it will turn-out GREAT! Eddie
Metal is still the old "go-to" material of choice for most contractors in the north east. I agree there are newer composite materials on the market now that have very good properties as you noted. Some of the new "plastic" and "PVC" outside corner materials are incredibly strong and "chip" resistant. Thanks for the feedback and comment. Eddie
Hey Darren! Yeah man we use them on every job mostly! This was a video for the average home owner doing maybe one one drywall job in his or her lifetime...and most do not own a pole sander...so I just used hand sanding with fine grit paper and a sanding sponge as the sanding method. But your right...time is money and wear-n-tear on the old body is critical if your a lifer! Thanks for commenting my brother! Eddie
I am start my first day tomorrow I watched your videos and subscrided to your videos very informative I have taped drywall before and kind realized I'm a lil rusty on certain technique thanks for the tips my friend.
Come back next day to apply plaster internal corners lol...Over here in Australia 4 bed house sheets hung and set in one day. Ready for sander and cornice man,dont make money coming twice.
If your referring to recruiting good tradesman for your business, I have found a lot of success running help wanted ads on craigslist and always find my man! Best part of craigslist for help wanted ads is they are FREE! Good luck with your remodeling business brother. I'm always around if you want to talk. Eddie
What is the type of of mud for the very first coat on the joints? What is the type of on type of mud on the next coat and then the final coat? I have been using the tinted and thinning on the final coat and this has made it easier to float the edge, I got that advice from a pro on the job. Thanks for the info.
Sweet clip lots of good pointers , can I ask iv always been told hang north and south what’s the best way to avoid cracks hanging north to south or hanging west and east ? Does this matter when creating cracks will one way crack more then the other ? Thanks
I agree with a lot of what you say, but I have been doing drywall since I was 7 years old, I am not joking. I started out spotting nails/screws and scrapping houses out for my dad and uncles. The only thing really that I would do differently ( and it is purely just a preference of mine) is stripe the screws instead of single spotting them. Also, I use a 5 inch knife as well for most of my hand finishing along with a 10 inch knife and a 12 inch knife. I usually use box tools to finish with, I have an Apla-tech system which is pneumatic as well as a set of tape-tech tools that require a "gooseneck" pump to fill the tools. Very informative video though... P.S. BTW, it is in my opinion that sanding between coats is easier and more efficient to get rid of clinkers and hitch-hikers than scraping, not that scraping doesn't work. I know you make more dust sanding, but what you got to remember is this, you are not sanding the drywall coats, you are simply "brushing it off" so you don't really take a lot of time on any particular joint, you just knock off the rough stuff and keep going.
Hi Stephen! You are a true Pro! I like what your saying here, and this style of finishing is on the professional level for sure...We do it slightly different than you, but I have never met two drywallers that hang and finish their drywall exactly the same. As long as the finished product is spot-on these small differences in finishing style are OK! Thank you for commenting and stopping by our basement finishing channel. Eddie
I was a drywall finisher for about 15 years until the owner of the company I worked for retired me by making me his wife! I must confess tho that sometimes I really miss working and the camaraderie of my fellow drywall finishers! Recently I remodeled my sisters house and discovered I haven't lost my touch!
+Deborah Fox You never forget...it's just like riding a bike! The world needs more talented drywallers! Thanks for stopping by our channel Deborah and commenting. Eddie
i hope you see this soon because I'm in the middle of hanging drywall and I need an answer ASAP. After hanging drywall I'm left with a good size lip between the two pieces of drywall. Can i mud this or should I remove the drywall and fix the studs? Great video byt the way.
Yeah that works too Darren...Some guys love that method and a lot like the old mud pan and knife too. Whatever works best for that finisher I always say! Thanks for commenting! Eddie
I understand that hanging sheets horizontally would make for fewer seams but if you had 8 ft. walls then all the seams would be on a tapered joint except the corners wouldn't that make it easier and cleaner?
No it makes for alot more seams every 4' going vertically from floor to ceiling...the finishing is much easier when you lay your drywall on it's side rather than stining it up 8'. Eddie
Bill tops ..except, the seams go all the way, floor to ceiling every 4 foot... this way, you have one seam 4 foot high, and you dont have to climb a ladder
Different styles of finishing."There's more than one way to skin a cat!" In our part of the country most finishers do their corners the way we do them (1 side one day and the other side the next day). If you like the corner tool that's great but it is am optional way of finishing inside corners, and we just wanted to mention it in the video! We'll leave it at that my friend. EDddie
Cove trowels are nice but your average DIY'er isn't going to have one! This method works for pretty much anyone looking to finish their own drywall using conventional drywall tools. Thanks for stopping by our basement channel.
The corner trowel is a GREAT finishing tool Larry but it's a little trickier to learn to use for the beginner! WE use em but not in this video, this is really "old-school" training. Thanks for commenting man! Eddie
I disagree with the 14" knife on the joints, I use a 12' with 3 passes up the mid and 2 sides for the finish, same with the previous coats only use the knife of the coat you are on....8-10-12
Well not everybody feels comfortable with the same exact style of finishing. This works great for us...I'm sure your method works great for you and everybody goes home at the end of the having done a great job! I know guys that do it both ways and both work well. Thanks for stopping by our channel.
I personally don't get the necessity of having an almost 30" wide swath of mud to disguise tape basically 1/64th an inch thick. If you can successfully cover an inside corner joint with a 4" blade & a 6" run for your finish coat,, you're covering the same exposure of thickness with a far more narrow swath. Essentially it's all about "tricking the eye" & of course legitimate coverage of the tape itself & I'm not arguing any wider swath might not be all the better but I personally find it overkill with wasted mud. Whereas I'm a novice in drywall installation myself,, I was the poor slob contractor paying for that pallet of mud my guys used to go through just about every job. I could be exaggerating "the pallet" aspect but I do recall it was a helluva lot they always had shipped out for their finish work. In fairness,, they skim coated all my ceilings completely to assure the paint job didn't bleed through showing their work. Back to my original point,, is the difference that on "an open wall",, it would be far more obvious,, "the tape/joint bump" that is,, than in a closed in corner where the mud's essentially built up as deep as you need for coverage unnoticed by normal sight? I guess I should have asked these questions when I was in the business instead of paying out the ass for unnecessary cost my guys spooned out to showcase their skillsets. I never really complained because "they were the best" so in a way,, I guess I'm answering my own question,, that excess allowed for the best job possible..
True Eddie as I pointed out as well,, the difference between a 6" inside corner run vs. the substantially far larger double run of 14" swaths you utilize "might" make for a better eventual job,, I say "might" hesitantly. Not being argumentative but even within your case,, you've moved upward to a 14" knife from a 12" increasing your job cost almost 15% for that additional 4" of material you're using to what's got to be considered somewhat inconsequential in your final aesthetical outcome. I might also add the larger the knife or tool,, the less mobility & cutting or handling capacity you'd have than with a smaller tool in fine tuning your end goal. Again,, to each his own,, I'm just not feeling it,, the usage of such a larger tool which in my opinion,, even a 10" knife would even that bump out to a non noticeable state. My viewpoint is merely from an "overkill/cost" view while an industry loving to sell product might suggest the much larger tool (spreading far more material in wasteful fashion IMO) will "supposedly" give you a more professional look. In the end,, the difference & distinction of a 28" swath vs. what I'm even suggesting,, a 20" swath cannot be that noticeable. BTW,, a 20" finish saves even more toward the 30% variety toward your bottom line. I suppose viewing it from the installation lens vs. one of "more work & more cost" is for the individual themselves to determine the practicality of. You've got to be very, very measured using a 14" to evenly coat that seam to begin with,, how many finishers (& especially DIY'er's) can evenly drag that much mud across a joint without spilling a portion of it with that much material across the full width of the blade itself? Not many I'd suggest,, have a great day buddy,, to each their own. Not trying to rain on your parade,, just pointing out the pros & cons of one vs. another..
+meredithgifts1 What ever name you want to give the aluminum box you put a roll o drywall seam tape and joint compound in to dispense along drywall seams.
Hey Eric Glad we could "entertain" you! You sound like a really "complex" person who's ground I surely am not worthy of sharing. Good luck with all your drywall projects as I'm sure you piss 1 1/4" drywall screws and crap joint compound...
i was wondering if i have to mud the entire drywall ceiling in my bathroom after i replaced it from water damage or if i can just mud the screws and seems then paint over the drywall itself. thank you
Hello Benjamin! OK...I would scrape all bad areas(nails, seams, etc.) and get all the loose stuff off the ceiling. Make sure the drywall is completely dry from the water damage first. Then you can re-coat your seams and nails as you would on the final 2 coats of regular Drywall finish work. You would be freshening-up the original nail holes and seams work. You would then need to lightly sand the new mud work making it paint ready. I would use a "stain-blocker" primer like "Kilz" to seal the drywall from the water damage this will prevent any water stain residue from seeping back through the new ceiling paint Good luck. Eddie
If you are looking for a way to hang panels on walls by yourself check out www.hangprolift.com. The only tool made specifically for one person to transport, lift, adjust and hold panels on walls. Never have to lift a panel again when hanging walls. Works with upper and lower panels and can handle 16 foot sheets.
whatever you say...if that works for you great! I've been doing it myself and watching other pros do it for years and have never seen a 14" butt joint that was perfectly hidden. You must have a secret "twist" you put on your butts. Thanks for commenting. Tom
Just because someone hires a "professional" doesn't mean the job will be done right. You'll end up spending more money to hire someone else to fix the previous "professionals" work.
Well you should be using a "Pole Sander" your making more work for yourself and not properly taking out ridges etc... Your way ( Hours) Pole Sander ( Minuites ). I do this for a living and would never do it your way, way too time consuming, there is no need for it. Not saying you do a bad job by no means, just not really the proper way.
WE use em...just not for this "Homeowner" geared style drywall video series...most homeowners do not have a sanding pole, trowel and hawk in there homeowner tools arsenal! But I agree with you, if your doing this professionally every day of your life you better learn how to use these tools! Faster and easier on the body for sure...but also takes some time to use properly! Eddie
Sanding causes to much dust and then you will have to go around with a sponge to get rid of the dust so to say it is faster and easier is a stretch. I always go around with an edge to knock of the burrs. Love this video.
"Learn to spell knucklehead" you say? Haha! Funny coming from the guy who spells "SAFTEY", twice! Oh, and by the way, when you say "If your referring to recruiting (...)", the "your" is meant as a contraction of the words "you" and "are", and as such should be spelled "you're" with the apostrophe. Who's the knucklehead now?
If you don't want speed bumps, yes it really does take a wide path of mud to graduate the butt joint to a perfect finish-point. I don't care how you finish it, 14" is not enough joint compound for a Butt joint. Eddie
just not really the proper way. Ok that sounded a bit harsh as your way obviously does work for you, I never wanted to sound like a dink pardon my language. Just a pole sander is easier and wouldnt you want less stress on your body at the end of the day?. I hope I never came off rude man. When it's all said and done, time is everything in the drywall business.
His job look so disgusting check me out and see how a house done by a real drywall pro supposed to look not this crap I get calls all the time to fix this mess
I worked with drywall for 15 years and watched numereous vids out of coriousity and thi one is the ony guy that seems to know what hes doing,good work
Thank you for this excellent video. At a time when I find so much of what is on the internet depressing or inaccurate, I am heartened to see someone who clearly knows what he is doing simply sharing a deep knowledge of a subject. And with such clarity! Again, my thanks.
this is nice work.
last job i did with a friend on a commercial auto shop, we had no idea.
glopped the mud on so thick we were sanding for days.
Regular "green lid compound is great to tape with and is good for every coat after as well. We also use the "purple" lid mid weight this works good as well but the final product is not quite as "Hard" of a finish and scratches a little easier, but it still a good finish.
Eddie
Most residential drywall codes ask for a 1/2" thickness. Some areas like garage ceilings where there is a living space above it require 5/8" drywall. Basements are a 1/2" drywall code thickness.
Eddie
First @ BasementMan i respect all those who are in drywall/sealant business i've been around it all my life. To all those who advocate sanding i say to you, while it is neccisary....learning how much mud is too much vs. howmuch is neccisary is critical. Not having to sand more than you need to is king. Also one more thing if your thinking of getting bigtime into the mud business an electric sander w/shop vac attatchment is a worthwhile investment. We use Porter Cable 7800.
Hey Andrew! Thanks for stopping by my channel! I prefer to finish a longer horizontal joint at wast height than vertical joints every 4' that go from floor to ceiling. Most drywall professionals will take this route for ease of finishing. Granted there will be a few butt joints to finish along the way but... by using 10' & 12' board it's less finishing and easier on the body plus overall you will definitely save time.
Eddie
Hey man it happens...even the pros get a little rusty if we take too much time off. It will all come come back to you as soon as the lid comes off the "Mud"!
Good luck with your drywall project...it will turn-out GREAT!
Eddie
3rd best we've ever gotten aside from #1 Sheetrock Lift and #2 Bazooka. :-) very usefull for larger jobs for time saving.
Metal is still the old "go-to" material of choice for most contractors in the north east. I agree there are newer composite materials on the market now that have very good properties as you noted. Some of the new "plastic" and "PVC" outside corner materials are incredibly strong and "chip" resistant.
Thanks for the feedback and comment.
Eddie
Thanks man! We do things the old fashioned way...the right way!
Hey Darren! Yeah man we use them on every job mostly! This was a video for the average home owner doing maybe one one drywall job in his or her lifetime...and most do not own a pole sander...so I just used hand sanding with fine grit paper and a sanding sponge as the sanding method. But your right...time is money and wear-n-tear on the old body is critical if your a lifer!
Thanks for commenting my brother!
Eddie
Eagle Scout! Very Cool! Thanks for watching.
I am start my first day tomorrow I watched your videos and subscrided to your videos very informative I have taped drywall before and kind realized I'm a lil rusty on certain technique thanks for the tips my friend.
nice tips, I like to work with a fast and different approach for small projects
Come back next day to apply plaster internal corners lol...Over here in Australia 4 bed house sheets hung and set in one day. Ready for sander and cornice man,dont make money coming twice.
Glad I found these videos, planning on doing my own basement. Thanks guys!
Your welcome. Thanks for the views and the positive comment!
Eddie
if you use a corner tool you can obituaries of corner at same time
If your referring to recruiting good tradesman for your business, I have found a lot of success running help wanted ads on craigslist and always find my man! Best part of craigslist for help wanted ads is they are FREE! Good luck with your remodeling business brother. I'm always around if you want to talk.
Eddie
Can you make a video on the different knifes and how they should be used
We usually just use a 3" or 3.5" tapetech angle head on the angles.
tom must love home depot that much
We do Kody...I did not address it in the video though. It does make it easier on the back, especially on the ceiling.
Perfect. Best workmanship & training video. Bravo.
Thank you Faruk...appreciate the view.
Eddie
As always. Great video guys. Thank you.
Great video, man you make it look so easy.
What is the type of of mud for the very first coat on the joints? What is the type of on type of mud on the next coat and then the final coat? I have been using the tinted and thinning on the final coat and this has made it easier to float the edge, I got that advice from a pro on the job. Thanks for the info.
thanks for the info! Helped me with my eagle scout project!
Learn to spell knucklehead. These videos demonstrate the proper way to hang and finish drywall...what planet do you hang & finish drywall on Jack?
Sweet clip lots of good pointers , can I ask iv always been told hang north and south what’s the best way to avoid cracks hanging north to south or hanging west and east ? Does this matter when creating cracks will one way crack more then the other ? Thanks
I agree with a lot of what you say, but I have been doing drywall since I was 7 years old, I am not joking. I started out spotting nails/screws and scrapping houses out for my dad and uncles. The only thing really that I would do differently ( and it is purely just a preference of mine) is stripe the screws instead of single spotting them. Also, I use a 5 inch knife as well for most of my hand finishing along with a 10 inch knife and a 12 inch knife. I usually use box tools to finish with, I have an Apla-tech system which is pneumatic as well as a set of tape-tech tools that require a "gooseneck" pump to fill the tools. Very informative video though...
P.S.
BTW, it is in my opinion that sanding between coats is easier and more efficient to get rid of clinkers and hitch-hikers than scraping, not that scraping doesn't work. I know you make more dust sanding, but what you got to remember is this, you are not sanding the drywall coats, you are simply "brushing it off" so you don't really take a lot of time on any particular joint, you just knock off the rough stuff and keep going.
Hi Stephen! You are a true Pro! I like what your saying here, and this style of finishing is on the professional level for sure...We do it slightly different than you, but I have never met two drywallers that hang and finish their drywall exactly the same. As long as the finished product is spot-on these small differences in finishing style are OK! Thank you for commenting and stopping by our basement finishing channel.
Eddie
Stephen Powell sanding in between it's a waste of time in my opinion
These videos are sooooooo helpful. thnx!
why dont you use a sanding pole to sand between coats vs scrape. easyer on the back no bending over
Nice job, you sure make that look easy!
How do you finish drywall if you're doing an "industrial" unfinished ceiling? Butting up to the existing joists with the dry wall?
I was a drywall finisher for about 15 years until the owner of the company I worked for retired me by making me his wife! I must confess tho that sometimes I really miss working and the camaraderie of my fellow drywall finishers! Recently I remodeled my sisters house and discovered I haven't lost my touch!
+Deborah Fox You never forget...it's just like riding a bike! The world needs more talented drywallers! Thanks for stopping by our channel Deborah and commenting.
Eddie
i hope you see this soon because I'm in the middle of hanging drywall and I need an answer ASAP. After hanging drywall I'm left with a good size lip between the two pieces of drywall. Can i mud this or should I remove the drywall and fix the studs? Great video byt the way.
Depends...if the studs are really warped you may want to fix them...if it's not drastically bad the mud work should hide the unevenness.
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Thanks for the quick response Ed. The lip is like an 1/8 inch. I think I can hide it with mud.
@@gasousman Yes...for sure!
Wouldn't be useful in some cases that the drywall sheets (gyprock) Australia had the ends tapered?
Good work bro keep it up!!!
Very well done video. Great tips.
Thanks Nathaniel! We appreciate your positive comment and your visit to our UA-cam channel.
Edie
Why not use a "Hawk and Trowel" for coating by hand?., much easier+ quicker and does a better job!.
Yeah that works too Darren...Some guys love that method and a lot like the old mud pan and knife too. Whatever works best for that finisher I always say! Thanks for commenting!
Eddie
I understand that hanging sheets horizontally would make for fewer seams but if you had 8 ft. walls then all the seams would be on a tapered joint except the corners wouldn't that make it easier and cleaner?
No it makes for alot more seams every 4' going vertically from floor to ceiling...the finishing is much easier when you lay your drywall on it's side rather than stining it up 8'.
Eddie
Bill tops ..except, the seams go all the way, floor to ceiling every 4 foot... this way, you have one seam 4 foot high, and you dont have to climb a ladder
Different styles of finishing."There's more than one way to skin a cat!" In our part of the country most finishers do their corners the way we do them (1 side one day and the other side the next day). If you like the corner tool that's great but it is am optional way of finishing inside corners, and we just wanted to mention it in the video! We'll leave it at that my friend.
EDddie
After years of being stool or. Finally taking a class
24-28 inch butt joint? Try using a "cove" trowl for the first coat, you won't need to use as much compound on ur final coat and leaves a flat finish
Cove trowels are nice but your average DIY'er isn't going to have one! This method works for pretty much anyone looking to finish their own drywall using conventional drywall tools. Thanks for stopping by our basement channel.
Mish Ford You dope- did you think that he didn't know about that tool? He was showing us how to do the work without it.
Hey I wanted start hanging drywall and putting up walls. What's some pointers and steps for a beginner?.
Watch this video for wall hanging tips>>>>> ua-cam.com/video/Dn25J1jW3k0/v-deo.html Good info!
Eddie
thanks I really appreciate that
Why not use a corner trowel to save drying time?
LOL my bad. I commented too early. Nice work though guys, looks great.
The corner trowel is a GREAT finishing tool Larry but it's a little trickier to learn to use for the beginner! WE use em but not in this video, this is really "old-school" training. Thanks for commenting man!
Eddie
What's with wearing that home depot shirt!
And the hat too!
We are Home Depot fans! Great stores and good prices!
Eddie
I disagree with the 14" knife on the joints, I use a 12' with 3 passes up the mid and 2 sides for the finish, same with the previous coats only use the knife of the coat you are on....8-10-12
Well not everybody feels comfortable with the same exact style of finishing. This works great for us...I'm sure your method works great for you and everybody goes home at the end of the having done a great job! I know guys that do it both ways and both work well. Thanks for stopping by our channel.
Great video..
This is off-topic but who is that ultra-fast guitar player at the beginning of this video? And what is the name of the song? Is that even real?
Brad Paisley and the song Title is Time Warp. He's an awesome guitar player!
I personally don't get the necessity of having an almost 30" wide swath of mud to disguise tape basically 1/64th an inch thick. If you can successfully cover an inside corner joint with a 4" blade & a 6" run for your finish coat,, you're covering the same exposure of thickness with a far more narrow swath. Essentially it's all about "tricking the eye" & of course legitimate coverage of the tape itself & I'm not arguing any wider swath might not be all the better but I personally find it overkill with wasted mud. Whereas I'm a novice in drywall installation myself,, I was the poor slob contractor paying for that pallet of mud my guys used to go through just about every job. I could be exaggerating "the pallet" aspect but I do recall it was a helluva lot they always had shipped out for their finish work. In fairness,, they skim coated all my ceilings completely to assure the paint job didn't bleed through showing their work. Back to my original point,, is the difference that on "an open wall",, it would be far more obvious,, "the tape/joint bump" that is,, than in a closed in corner where the mud's essentially built up as deep as you need for coverage unnoticed by normal sight? I guess I should have asked these questions when I was in the business instead of paying out the ass for unnecessary cost my guys spooned out to showcase their skillsets. I never really complained because "they were the best" so in a way,, I guess I'm answering my own question,, that excess allowed for the best job possible..
Well there you have it! You answered your own question...it's needed to produce a perfect product.
Eddie
True Eddie as I pointed out as well,, the difference between a 6" inside corner run vs. the substantially far larger double run of 14" swaths you utilize "might" make for a better eventual job,, I say "might" hesitantly. Not being argumentative but even within your case,, you've moved upward to a 14" knife from a 12" increasing your job cost almost 15% for that additional 4" of material you're using to what's got to be considered somewhat inconsequential in your final aesthetical outcome. I might also add the larger the knife or tool,, the less mobility & cutting or handling capacity you'd have than with a smaller tool in fine tuning your end goal. Again,, to each his own,, I'm just not feeling it,, the usage of such a larger tool which in my opinion,, even a 10" knife would even that bump out to a non noticeable state. My viewpoint is merely from an "overkill/cost" view while an industry loving to sell product might suggest the much larger tool (spreading far more material in wasteful fashion IMO) will "supposedly" give you a more professional look. In the end,, the difference & distinction of a 28" swath vs. what I'm even suggesting,, a 20" swath cannot be that noticeable. BTW,, a 20" finish saves even more toward the 30% variety toward your bottom line. I suppose viewing it from the installation lens vs. one of "more work & more cost" is for the individual themselves to determine the practicality of. You've got to be very, very measured using a 14" to evenly coat that seam to begin with,, how many finishers (& especially DIY'er's) can evenly drag that much mud across a joint without spilling a portion of it with that much material across the full width of the blade itself? Not many I'd suggest,, have a great day buddy,, to each their own. Not trying to rain on your parade,, just pointing out the pros & cons of one vs. another..
whats the minimum thickness of drywall needed to code
Yeah- Its called an angle head. Ames ,Tapetech, etc.
unless the wall is higher then 3 m (10 feet) you can avoid butt joints by installing the sheets vertically . Just saying :)
You knock the wall sounds like wood, is that wood?
Do you ever use a banjo for your seams?
+Dale Zaugg No we do not. Some of my subcontractors that we use do use them...but our personal crew does not.
Tom
+Dale Zaugg I'll let you in on a little secret. Banjo's are actually musical instruments. I wouldn't recommend taping them to your wall.
+meredithgifts1 What ever name you want to give the aluminum box you put a roll o drywall seam tape and joint compound in to dispense along drywall seams.
I got several boxes of green and blue dot...going cheep if anyone is in the LODI area. Lmk thx
good but it was prep not finish plastering
trader !! ..... I caught that "lowe's Blue's" kobalt 6'er !! ... tisk tisk tisk :P :P :P
Terry Broome OOPS! : - )
Why the white spot patches on the sheetrock?
They are all of the screw holes that have been filled with joint compound to hide them...
Hey Eric Glad we could "entertain" you! You sound like a really "complex" person who's ground I surely am not worthy of sharing. Good luck with all your drywall projects as I'm sure you piss 1 1/4" drywall screws and crap joint compound...
Put mud on the side of the knife and cover the screws . Doing one at a time wastes time.
i was wondering if i have to mud the entire drywall ceiling in my bathroom after i replaced it from water damage or if i can just mud the screws and seems then paint over the drywall itself. thank you
Hello Benjamin! OK...I would scrape all bad areas(nails, seams, etc.) and get all the loose stuff off the ceiling. Make sure the drywall is completely dry from the water damage first. Then you can re-coat your seams and nails as you would on the final 2 coats of regular Drywall finish work. You would be freshening-up the original nail holes and seams work. You would then need to lightly sand the new mud work making it paint ready. I would use a "stain-blocker" primer like "Kilz" to seal the drywall from the water damage this will prevent any water stain residue from seeping back through the new ceiling paint
Good luck.
Eddie
+BasementFinishingMklan
If you are looking for a way to hang panels on walls by yourself check out www.hangprolift.com. The only tool made specifically for one person to transport, lift, adjust and hold panels on walls. Never have to lift a panel again when hanging walls. Works with upper and lower panels and can handle 16 foot sheets.
Listening to Rebecca Black normally makes you want to punch holes in drywall, so it makes sense youtube wants to show you how to fix it.
not true all you have to do is take a 12" knife find low side, build the low side 1st then cover the tape on the high side
whatever you say...if that works for you great! I've been doing it myself and watching other pros do it for years and have never seen a 14" butt joint that was perfectly hidden. You must have a secret "twist" you put on your butts. Thanks for commenting.
Tom
Just because someone hires a "professional" doesn't mean the job will be done right. You'll end up spending more money to hire someone else to fix the previous "professionals" work.
I was watching Rebecca Black music videos, and youtube told me to come here... How the hell did they know I was about to finish drywall??
And what's with the butt joint in the closet that's less than 6 ft long come on now
Well you should be using a "Pole Sander" your making more work for yourself and not properly taking out ridges etc... Your way ( Hours) Pole Sander ( Minuites ). I do this for a living and would never do it your way, way too time consuming, there is no need for it. Not saying you do a bad job by no means, just not really the proper way.
WE use em...just not for this "Homeowner" geared style drywall video series...most homeowners do not have a sanding pole, trowel and hawk in there homeowner tools arsenal! But I agree with you, if your doing this professionally every day of your life you better learn how to use these tools! Faster and easier on the body for sure...but also takes some time to use properly!
Eddie
Darren Martins This video was for folks with minimal tools you twit. You don't think he already knew about using the tools you mentioned? Really?
6, 8 10 knives, too much overkill and waste with a 14'' knife. Excellent job though, all looks great!
Instead of going around scraping the walls just give it a light sand, much faster and easier
That also works well Miguel. Thanks!
Sanding causes to much dust and then you will have to go around with a sponge to get rid of the dust so to say it is faster and easier is a stretch. I always go around with an edge to knock of the burrs. Love this video.
False
"Learn to spell knucklehead" you say? Haha! Funny coming from the guy who spells "SAFTEY", twice! Oh, and by the way, when you say "If your referring to recruiting (...)", the "your" is meant as a contraction of the words "you" and "are", and as such should be spelled "you're" with the apostrophe. Who's the knucklehead now?
if you busting out a 28inch butt joint you need to learn how to finish right, it doesn't take but 14 inches AT MOST smh
If you don't want speed bumps, yes it really does take a wide path of mud to graduate the butt joint to a perfect finish-point. I don't care how you finish it, 14" is not enough joint compound for a Butt joint.
Eddie
+Basement Finishing Man agreed
Learn to talk and spell.
You guys are not of the caliber to be giving advice on anything
Really Mike...? Well than why don't you make a video and show us all how it's done! Maybe you'll get millions of views too! Lol...
just not really the proper way. Ok that sounded a bit harsh as your way obviously does work for you, I never wanted to sound like a dink pardon my language. Just a pole sander is easier and wouldnt you want less stress on your body at the end of the day?. I hope I never came off rude man. When it's all said and done, time is everything in the drywall business.
His job look so disgusting check me out and see how a house done by a real drywall pro supposed to look not this crap I get calls all the time to fix this mess