Edit: Excuse the odd segment at 5:40 to 6:53 some jerk company decided to copyright claim old copyright free music. I mentioned needing a hammer drill. Part 2, wiring and testing this winch: ua-cam.com/video/ysJ3_QN3ZqM/v-deo.html For the price this garage floor winch has proved very valuable! Or worth at least a sore back saved. If you have questions let me know. If you want to install your own garage winch, there are several links in the description to get you started. Thanks!
I enjoyed watching your video and being a part of your journey. Made me chuckle, because I've experienced many of the issues you encountered. Great work.
This gave me flash backs to a similarly horrendous winch install in the floor of a shop I worked for... I did have a hammer drill and still had all the same issues as you, only I had 4 holes to make!😂 Anyways kudos to you for getting it done, cement is not so easy to work with I find.
key here i found when installing my Harbor Freight Badland ZXR3500 winch was to use pilot bits..i do this with everything as it makes drilling out larger bits smooth and quick. Vacuuming constantly and then using an air gun to blow out the remnants so the anchor sits flush. Also, the positioning of the mounting bolts often interferes with the cable..my winch has two off to the side so its not as bad, but I ended up using Wedge Anchors and cutting the threading down enough so it wasnt too tall.
You can find threaded inserts that work similar to an anchor bolt. The threaded part is flush with the floor and you thread a bolt into the flush anchor
I got a floor jack from Harbor freight and it is still going strong 7 years later., it has the low clearance and the 50-inch spreader with thick rubber pads.
This is a great idea. Gonna have to incorporate this into my shop when I build it. For now, I just throw the cars on the wheel dolly's and muscle em up the garage lol. Helps to be an ex-powerlifter haha!
Thanks a lot! It's one of those things you might only use a few times a year even, but for the cost it really just save energy and frustration. It does mean you skip the workout though. 😂
What you should have done is set a receiver mounting plate. Called a Step Bumper Receiver. (Link 1) . Drill all your holes and add some oversized nuts and washers between plate and floor. Get some 2" square tubing (draw bar stalk) and weld (or have it welded) a winch mounting plate on to it. Like Link 2. Make it so you can put in a smaller tube in front , this is for making a place to hook the cable back onto. Comes in handy for adding a snatch block, doubling the capacity of the winch. And last upgrade the winch to the 3500lbs (it comes with the plate). Not only will you be able to pull more ( I know you are just pulling cars on flat concrete but keep reading) but the mounting holes are not in the way of the cable. Why? Well it is way easier to mount. Also when the winch gives out and needs replacing it is way easier to do. If you are pulling the winch off after years of operation those bolts may be out of wack. Also the bolts won't be in the way of the cable. BTW reversing the winch can be done but you shouldn't. Keeping the cable centered to the winch is best. Going over the top will pull up on the back bolt more. It is best to keep the pulling force level/in line with the bolts. Added benefit is that you can use the winch in other places making it way more useful in different locations. Get the most bang for you buck. Last thing. Add Anderson Plugs between battery & controls and between controls & winch. Link 3. These thing are fucking awesome! This will make it so you don't have to leave the controls and battery on the floor all the time. (Acceptable to falling things.) Adding Anderson Plugs to (in between charger cables and clamps) your charged will make it easier to charge and make a good connection to battery. It also will make moving winch from location to location MUCH easier. You can also add extensions. You can have the battery in the bed of a truck and the winch on a trailer. You need two for every connection. So you will need at least 4 for just this. Yes they are an added cost but the first time you need to do any maintenance to it or charge it you will be glad you put them in. I have my trailer set up like this very way. Can't see winch in video but the point is it's there LOL. Link 4. I move this winch from trailer to trailer. I had a receiver plate on my garage floor like you (no longer live there) and would pull in cars just like you. Ok now last thing LOL. If you winch ever breaks down or you forgot to charge the battery, you can always take the winch out, put a regular draw bar with a hook or shackle, run a rope from car being pulled in to Snatch block , back under car to another car, and pull that sucker in. Just make sure to put some stop blocks. Left links to products in video below.
Hahaha never saw your original comment, sorry. Believe me, I definitely thought of many ways to over engineer this project before I did it, but I mostly wanted it done fast and cheap. TBH if I was gonna do it again all I would change is mounting the winch to a plate that I can unbolt easier so I can swap it between two spots or get it out of my way. Other option would be to mount it to a trailer hitch style mount that can quick release from mounts in the floor, but given how often I use it and how often I would move it, really not worth it. The winches are so cheap I can also just buy two if I want one for each bay. This winch has def been plenty capable for me, I'm not gonna pull any massive trucks. Any upgrades in weight ratings cost way more money to do the same job. I'm very good at wiring so I have no issues with changing the connectors to whatever I want, I'm just too lazy with tons of other projects. Lots of great ideas though!
Definitely going to need a second anchor point in the concrete to run a snatch block setup to avoid burning up the winch - that 2500lb winch is quite weak but the cable is probably the weakest link - just broke the cable on mine and all it does is lift an atv snow plow
It actually pulls cars pretty easy. Being on a pretty much level surface surely helps. Did this install last year, though I've only used it a handful of times. I've seen these cables break on ATV plows too, so they worry me. I've been considering swapping the cable for a synthetic rope for multiple reasons and probably will eventually. So far it doesn't even seem to get hot, but it's not like I'm pulling trucks! We'll see of it ever struggles later. Thanks for the comment!
Oooooh! Now this is a cool trick I wish I had known. Makes total sense. Just worry about breaking the drill, but obviously if it can't hack it, time for a new one! I do have a much better hammer drill now though. :)
Genuinely not sure. Make sure the pin on the side is locked in, the battery you're using is charged, try tapping on the signal box, try manually hooking voltage to the winch lugs momentarily, otherwise return the winch for replacement unless you feel like taking stuff apart.
@@802Garagethanks man cuz I was getting frustrated I put new batteries in the key fob last night and it was working fine but it just would not retract the cable once it let it out.. thanks for the ideas
Good job. Small advice - place the nozzle of vac on the ground near the hole you're drilling. It'll suck up most of the dust so you dont have to stop/start as often..
Thanks! And yeah watching my footage back I have no idea why I didn't do that. Likely was thinking of "the shot" as well as not wanting it in my way. It was surprisingly low dust while drilling, mostly just a lot when trying to clear it. :)
With your grande love for, and adept use of, epoxy resin, I would not have been amazed if you had decided to 'glue' that toy to the garage floor. Or at least tried it. My Russian G-Pa tried to use such (JBWeld) in as many applications as possible. Probably lost sleep, pondering about how, the following day, he could employ that 'Heaven Honey', as he called it. On the other hand, the left one, uncle Dimitri would use power wenches to do body & fender work...pulling out fenders, door panels & frame straightening. BTW, you plan on powering it with a stray, hopefully charged, battery...or a AC - DC converter ? TaTa ! 👄 👍
Hahaha, I bet I could have used some construction adhesive and it would stay quite a while. I just wouldn't want to see what happens when the epoxy finally lets go! Sounds like you have an interesting family history. Thanks as always. :)
I know I looked up the strength of concrete anchors and made sure I used a size rated for holding past the winch rating. I believe I had to drill the vice mounting holes out very slightly. I want to say it was 3/8" anchors because the mounting holes are 8.5mm according to the manual and 3/8" is just a bit larger.
@@802Garage Well if you don't know then you are either 1 lying 2 not actually doing any work 3 super lucky 4 just the perfect person ever, 🤣 Well There are times where a person will drill the hole and hammer in the anchors, just a bit off. At the bottom it's nothing but up top that little angle can turn out to be way off at the top. IT may be ok if just one is off but if two or three are off then it gets hard to slide it on or off. I like harbor freight but still the winches don't last long. So there might come a time where you need to take it off and replace. So even if you, drilled put the plate down and then hammered in, they could be off making to difficult to take off. Here is where using the drop ins makes this easy to install and remove. Because as long as the top of the hole is align with the holes in the plate, the tip of the bolt will go in. Unlike at the top where the bolts could be spread out just enough that the bolts won't go in. Another benefit is that you don't have the chance to ruin the threads. Seen so many times where a person will be hammering in, and goes way to hard and mushroome the tip of the bolt. Often with the nut jammed in place because of it. So then the try and get it loose. In the struggle the bolt get loose and ends up being just a bolt sitting loose, worthless. If a wedge anchor breaks or needs to be taken out, good luck. If the bolt breaks off (most wedge anchors are not grade 8, you can choose to put grade 8 bolts in.) , you can drill the center and reverse tap the bolt out. If it is the anchor itself that needs replacing, the plug is easily drilled out. Screw in an eyebolt, just s few threads in, and yank that sucker out. One more thing. If that spot is needed you can take off the plate and the concrete is still flush/flat. You can even put a larger plate over it for some other use, like a tried changer, bench grinder, or whatever else you can't put on a receiver hitch mount. I will try and make it out to my friends house where I did this for him. Two car garage a single movable bumper mount. Did you watch my video?
Oh oh oh yes of course. I thought you meant those drop in anchors would somehow allow the bolt to be angled properly, as in despite the tilt of the hole. I'm like how exactly do you think that's going to work? Yes it will make it easier to put the winch down and then put the bolt in the hole instead of trying to fight to get the holes over angled studs. Totally gotcha. I still think the main key is drilling the hole straight, hahaha. As for mushrooming, you just leave the nut threaded on the top of the stud when you hammer. Not an issue. Rarely seen anyone mushroom with the nut in place, but you could always double nut and tighten them against each other if you're worried about the nuts moving or something. If they are having that big of a problem, they didn't drill or clear the hole properly. I do like the aspect of keeping the concrete flush if you pull the winch or whatever is mounted though. For this particular winch, they would be a pain because of trying to fit a bolt in the back. Could be solved by mounting the winch to a secondary plate though as I mentioned in another comment. Will definitely be keeping the drop in threaded anchors in mind in the future. Obviously did this job several years ago now. I have lots of new tricks up my sleeves. Thanks!
Great determination bro, wholly shit, it was 1 damn challenge after the other, way to stay positive and keep going. I'm setting.mine in the woods to a tree with.a marine deep cycle battery
Where did you get those strike anchors for $2 a piece!? Also, I plan on doing this with a 5,000lb winch pulling cars that are 5,000lb+ and winching them into my garage. Wondering whether the anchors will hold or not. I think the 5,000lb winches are 4 bolt, yours is 2 bolt.
Local hardware store on the strike anchors. I don't think you really need a 5,000lbs winch for 5,000lbs vehicles if you are pulling across mostly level ground and the wheels are free. Winch rating is strange, based somewhat on pulling a load straight up with only one wrap around the drum. 5,000lbs could pretty much pull any vehicle, especially over short distances. I don't think even this 2,500lbs winch would struggle with an SUV. Obviously better to be safe than sorry though. If there is a big hump or something into your garage it may be necessary. You can look up strike anchor strength rating charts on Google. You'll be looking for lateral or shear strength if installed in the ground this way. I believe 2 strike anchors like this are definitely rated for over 5,000lbs shear at least. Just make sure you get a size where ideally one anchor could do the job, but 2-4 have a good safety factor. Hope this helps. Best of luck!
FYI, I'd rent an SDS hammer. A $20 hammerdrill aint getting you far. I've got a particularly nice hammerdrill (Milwaukee M18 FUEL ONE-KEY. Fantastic drill, but still not quite what you'd need for concrete, and I still wouldn't even waste the effort to try to drill into concrete
Yeah if I ever had to drill a lot of holes, I'd probably rent a big dog. I have a DeWalt hammer drill now, but like you said it's still not really for big concrete jobs. That said it just sucks I'm pretty far from anyone who rents tools. Thanks!
Justin Credible - pulling from the top will lose leverage and put undue stress on the winch motor. An ideal fix would be to cut the stud flush (because it needs done anyways) and then to add a pulley system in front and to the right side of the winch. This would solve two issues at once, a. It would control the cable positions during use to & from the winch roll. b. also it would give a multiplier of leverage to create more pound force to whatever is being pulled. Pulleys are cool, snatch blocks are SUPER cool. Save the stress on your pulling device by utilizing what Archimedes gave to the king.
Yeah what I realized later is it would add stress to the winch mounting by being a higher lever on the entire winch. In the next video I flush cut it and it works out totally fine, luckily. There are a few ways I'd like to do this install different, but almost all of them involve more money! :P
This is UA-cam your safety glasses were not enough. A face shield over them is needed, don't forget your faceshield needs protection so another layer of safety glasses or a welding mask is also needed.
Well, no, it doesn't. It's not that simple. It's a function of surface area and force. So provided there is still enough surface area and force, it makes absolutely no difference. It's not like this is something which will be vibrating and shake apart. Given the bolts installed as in this video can likely hold far more force than the winch mechanical components and cable can actually hold, it doesn't defeat the purpose one bit. Basic reasoning and physics, really.
Edit: Excuse the odd segment at 5:40 to 6:53 some jerk company decided to copyright claim old copyright free music. I mentioned needing a hammer drill.
Part 2, wiring and testing this winch: ua-cam.com/video/ysJ3_QN3ZqM/v-deo.html
For the price this garage floor winch has proved very valuable! Or worth at least a sore back saved.
If you have questions let me know. If you want to install your own garage winch, there are several links in the description to get you started. Thanks!
I enjoyed watching your video and being a part of your journey. Made me chuckle, because I've experienced many of the issues you encountered. Great work.
Sometimes you gotta learn the hard way! Hahaha. Thanks, I really appreciate the comment!
This gave me flash backs to a similarly horrendous winch install in the floor of a shop I worked for... I did have a hammer drill and still had all the same issues as you, only I had 4 holes to make!😂 Anyways kudos to you for getting it done, cement is not so easy to work with I find.
Hahaha I hear sometimes it can just be awful! Stepping up from smaller bits is def the way to go. Cement can be cruel no matter what though!
key here i found when installing my Harbor Freight Badland ZXR3500 winch was to use pilot bits..i do this with everything as it makes drilling out larger bits smooth and quick. Vacuuming constantly and then using an air gun to blow out the remnants so the anchor sits flush.
Also, the positioning of the mounting bolts often interferes with the cable..my winch has two off to the side so its not as bad, but I ended up using Wedge Anchors and cutting the threading down enough so it wasnt too tall.
Yep exactly what I figured out on all accounts! Thank you for the great tips.
Have been searching for this a long time👍🏾 thanks for the video
Very welcome! Was the same for me so I made it. ;)
You can find threaded inserts that work similar to an anchor bolt. The threaded part is flush with the floor and you thread a bolt into the flush anchor
Interesting. I actually hadn't seen those for concrete.
They are called drop in anchors
@@802Garage Same Ones I was just telling you about.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Yeah I gotcha. 😁
I got a floor jack from Harbor freight and it is still going strong 7 years later., it has the low clearance and the 50-inch spreader with thick rubber pads.
Gopherchucks Games - I’d say half or more of my garage is from that store 🤘😂🤘
Hah, same! Most HF tools have treated me well. Just avoid the locking pliers.
I was curious to see how you hooked up the power 🤔
@@MasterMindInfinite Check out part 2! ua-cam.com/video/ysJ3_QN3ZqM/v-deo.htmlsi=cfpIGmnMbkLmXEQe
Moving up in the world of wholesome entertainment brother, I just got a Merc ad lol
Hahaha sweet! Hopefully they rub a couple pennies together for me. ;)
This is a great idea. Gonna have to incorporate this into my shop when I build it. For now, I just throw the cars on the wheel dolly's and muscle em up the garage lol. Helps to be an ex-powerlifter haha!
Thanks a lot! It's one of those things you might only use a few times a year even, but for the cost it really just save energy and frustration. It does mean you skip the workout though. 😂
What you should have done is set a receiver mounting plate. Called a Step Bumper Receiver. (Link 1) . Drill all your holes and add some oversized nuts and washers between plate and floor.
Get some 2" square tubing (draw bar stalk) and weld (or have it welded) a winch mounting plate on to it. Like Link 2. Make it so you can put in a smaller tube in front , this is for making a place to hook the cable back onto. Comes in handy for adding a snatch block, doubling the capacity of the winch.
And last upgrade the winch to the 3500lbs (it comes with the plate). Not only will you be able to pull more ( I know you are just pulling cars on flat concrete but keep reading) but the mounting holes are not in the way of the cable.
Why? Well it is way easier to mount. Also when the winch gives out and needs replacing it is way easier to do. If you are pulling the winch off after years of operation those bolts may be out of wack.
Also the bolts won't be in the way of the cable. BTW reversing the winch can be done but you shouldn't. Keeping the cable centered to the winch is best. Going over the top will pull up on the back bolt more. It is best to keep the pulling force level/in line with the bolts.
Added benefit is that you can use the winch in other places making it way more useful in different locations. Get the most bang for you buck.
Last thing. Add Anderson Plugs between battery & controls and between controls & winch. Link 3. These thing are fucking awesome! This will make it so you don't have to leave the controls and battery on the floor all the time. (Acceptable to falling things.) Adding Anderson Plugs to (in between charger cables and clamps) your charged will make it easier to charge and make a good connection to battery. It also will make moving winch from location to location MUCH easier. You can also add extensions. You can have the battery in the bed of a truck and the winch on a trailer. You need two for every connection. So you will need at least 4 for just this. Yes they are an added cost but the first time you need to do any maintenance to it or charge it you will be glad you put them in.
I have my trailer set up like this very way. Can't see winch in video but the point is it's there LOL. Link 4. I move this winch from trailer to trailer. I had a receiver plate on my garage floor like you (no longer live there) and would pull in cars just like you.
Ok now last thing LOL. If you winch ever breaks down or you forgot to charge the battery, you can always take the winch out, put a regular draw bar with a hook or shackle, run a rope from car being pulled in to Snatch block , back under car to another car, and pull that sucker in. Just make sure to put some stop blocks.
Left links to products in video below.
ua-cam.com/video/MAxn6pc5Qrs/v-deo.html
Hahaha never saw your original comment, sorry. Believe me, I definitely thought of many ways to over engineer this project before I did it, but I mostly wanted it done fast and cheap. TBH if I was gonna do it again all I would change is mounting the winch to a plate that I can unbolt easier so I can swap it between two spots or get it out of my way. Other option would be to mount it to a trailer hitch style mount that can quick release from mounts in the floor, but given how often I use it and how often I would move it, really not worth it. The winches are so cheap I can also just buy two if I want one for each bay. This winch has def been plenty capable for me, I'm not gonna pull any massive trucks. Any upgrades in weight ratings cost way more money to do the same job. I'm very good at wiring so I have no issues with changing the connectors to whatever I want, I'm just too lazy with tons of other projects. Lots of great ideas though!
Definitely going to need a second anchor point in the concrete to run a snatch block setup to avoid burning up the winch - that 2500lb winch is quite weak but the cable is probably the weakest link - just broke the cable on mine and all it does is lift an atv snow plow
It actually pulls cars pretty easy. Being on a pretty much level surface surely helps. Did this install last year, though I've only used it a handful of times.
I've seen these cables break on ATV plows too, so they worry me. I've been considering swapping the cable for a synthetic rope for multiple reasons and probably will eventually.
So far it doesn't even seem to get hot, but it's not like I'm pulling trucks! We'll see of it ever struggles later. Thanks for the comment!
My dad taught me the rubber mallet trick, he would bounce it on the back of the drill every few seconds to blast out the loose dust.
Oooooh! Now this is a cool trick I wish I had known. Makes total sense. Just worry about breaking the drill, but obviously if it can't hack it, time for a new one! I do have a much better hammer drill now though. :)
@@802Garage yeah I have a Dewalt hammer drill. not playing with it anymore
Same actually!
What if my winch will not retract I can use the wireless remote to let out cable but I can't get it to take Cable in
Genuinely not sure. Make sure the pin on the side is locked in, the battery you're using is charged, try tapping on the signal box, try manually hooking voltage to the winch lugs momentarily, otherwise return the winch for replacement unless you feel like taking stuff apart.
@@802Garagethanks man cuz I was getting frustrated I put new batteries in the key fob last night and it was working fine but it just would not retract the cable once it let it out.. thanks for the ideas
@@bamadondon0495 Good luck!
Good job. Small advice - place the nozzle of vac on the ground near the hole you're drilling. It'll suck up most of the dust so you dont have to stop/start as often..
Thanks! And yeah watching my footage back I have no idea why I didn't do that. Likely was thinking of "the shot" as well as not wanting it in my way. It was surprisingly low dust while drilling, mostly just a lot when trying to clear it. :)
The harbor freight hammer drill i have is really nice
Nice! Glad it works well for you. I have a DeWalt combination hammer drill now I'm sure would do the job much quicker at least.
With your grande love for, and adept use of, epoxy resin, I would not have been amazed if you had decided to 'glue' that toy to the garage floor. Or at least tried it. My Russian G-Pa tried to use such (JBWeld) in as many applications as possible. Probably lost sleep, pondering about how, the following day, he could employ that 'Heaven Honey', as he called it.
On the other hand, the left one, uncle Dimitri would use power wenches to do body & fender work...pulling out fenders, door panels & frame straightening.
BTW, you plan on powering it with a stray, hopefully charged, battery...or a AC - DC converter ?
TaTa ! 👄 👍
Hahaha, I bet I could have used some construction adhesive and it would stay quite a while. I just wouldn't want to see what happens when the epoxy finally lets go! Sounds like you have an interesting family history. Thanks as always. :)
Pilot hole for the win.
Made it so much easier! I underestimated the concrete.
Nice! Do you remember the size of the strike anchors you used?
I know I looked up the strength of concrete anchors and made sure I used a size rated for holding past the winch rating. I believe I had to drill the vice mounting holes out very slightly. I want to say it was 3/8" anchors because the mounting holes are 8.5mm according to the manual and 3/8" is just a bit larger.
Great video, I think I would’ve just used a ram set to drive the stud setters in... now add some pulleys!!!
Never used one! I'll have you come help next time, hah. Thanks!
7:45 Off kilter would be not a problem if done with drop in anchors like I mentioned a long time ago.
As in female threaded anchors? Not sure how that would solve the hole being drilled off angle. I think I just need to drill straight. ;)
@@802Garage Well if you don't know then you are either
1 lying
2 not actually doing any work
3 super lucky
4 just the perfect person ever,
🤣
Well There are times where a person will drill the hole and hammer in the anchors, just a bit off. At the bottom it's nothing but up top that little angle can turn out to be way off at the top. IT may be ok if just one is off but if two or three are off then it gets hard to slide it on or off. I like harbor freight but still the winches don't last long. So there might come a time where you need to take it off and replace. So even if you, drilled put the plate down and then hammered in, they could be off making to difficult to take off.
Here is where using the drop ins makes this easy to install and remove. Because as long as the top of the hole is align with the holes in the plate, the tip of the bolt will go in. Unlike at the top where the bolts could be spread out just enough that the bolts won't go in.
Another benefit is that you don't have the chance to ruin the threads. Seen so many times where a person will be hammering in, and goes way to hard and mushroome the tip of the bolt. Often with the nut jammed in place because of it. So then the try and get it loose. In the struggle the bolt get loose and ends up being just a bolt sitting loose, worthless.
If a wedge anchor breaks or needs to be taken out, good luck. If the bolt breaks off (most wedge anchors are not grade 8, you can choose to put grade 8 bolts in.) , you can drill the center and reverse tap the bolt out. If it is the anchor itself that needs replacing, the plug is easily drilled out. Screw in an eyebolt, just s few threads in, and yank that sucker out.
One more thing. If that spot is needed you can take off the plate and the concrete is still flush/flat. You can even put a larger plate over it for some other use, like a tried changer, bench grinder, or whatever else you can't put on a receiver hitch mount.
I will try and make it out to my friends house where I did this for him. Two car garage a single movable bumper mount.
Did you watch my video?
@@802Garage Example of bolts being hammered in and mushrooming.
ua-cam.com/video/zm9gcpg8HTE/v-deo.html
@@802Garage This guy did it the way I am saying. Well at least the drop in anchors part.
ua-cam.com/video/KNRoBDVOJC4/v-deo.html
Oh oh oh yes of course. I thought you meant those drop in anchors would somehow allow the bolt to be angled properly, as in despite the tilt of the hole. I'm like how exactly do you think that's going to work? Yes it will make it easier to put the winch down and then put the bolt in the hole instead of trying to fight to get the holes over angled studs. Totally gotcha. I still think the main key is drilling the hole straight, hahaha. As for mushrooming, you just leave the nut threaded on the top of the stud when you hammer. Not an issue. Rarely seen anyone mushroom with the nut in place, but you could always double nut and tighten them against each other if you're worried about the nuts moving or something. If they are having that big of a problem, they didn't drill or clear the hole properly. I do like the aspect of keeping the concrete flush if you pull the winch or whatever is mounted though. For this particular winch, they would be a pain because of trying to fit a bolt in the back. Could be solved by mounting the winch to a secondary plate though as I mentioned in another comment. Will definitely be keeping the drop in threaded anchors in mind in the future. Obviously did this job several years ago now. I have lots of new tricks up my sleeves. Thanks!
14:30 The term 'Perfect' is for engineers. We don't need to be perfect LOL. As we say in Australia, "Good enough for the bush".
Hah, absolutely! Do you also say good enough for government work? That's our go to.
6:42 wait for it.... WAIT FOR IT... got em’
Hahaha I learned the next times to really have that hose over the hole and have better trigger control. 😂
Great determination bro, wholly shit, it was 1 damn challenge after the other, way to stay positive and keep going. I'm setting.mine in the woods to a tree with.a marine deep cycle battery
Hahaha thank you! I'm glad I gained the experience on working with concrete. Still need to relocate that transmitter box!
how are you powering it?
Car battery. Part 2 is here: ua-cam.com/video/ysJ3_QN3ZqM/v-deo.html
Your timelapse caught a centipede on the move lol
I'm not surprised. Nice Easter egg haha.
Where did you get those strike anchors for $2 a piece!? Also, I plan on doing this with a 5,000lb winch pulling cars that are 5,000lb+ and winching them into my garage. Wondering whether the anchors will hold or not. I think the 5,000lb winches are 4 bolt, yours is 2 bolt.
Local hardware store on the strike anchors. I don't think you really need a 5,000lbs winch for 5,000lbs vehicles if you are pulling across mostly level ground and the wheels are free. Winch rating is strange, based somewhat on pulling a load straight up with only one wrap around the drum. 5,000lbs could pretty much pull any vehicle, especially over short distances. I don't think even this 2,500lbs winch would struggle with an SUV. Obviously better to be safe than sorry though. If there is a big hump or something into your garage it may be necessary. You can look up strike anchor strength rating charts on Google. You'll be looking for lateral or shear strength if installed in the ground this way. I believe 2 strike anchors like this are definitely rated for over 5,000lbs shear at least. Just make sure you get a size where ideally one anchor could do the job, but 2-4 have a good safety factor. Hope this helps. Best of luck!
Hey Cheryl 🐱🐱🐱
Hahaha heeey. ;)
FYI, I'd rent an SDS hammer. A $20 hammerdrill aint getting you far. I've got a particularly nice hammerdrill (Milwaukee M18 FUEL ONE-KEY. Fantastic drill, but still not quite what you'd need for concrete, and I still wouldn't even waste the effort to try to drill into concrete
Yeah if I ever had to drill a lot of holes, I'd probably rent a big dog. I have a DeWalt hammer drill now, but like you said it's still not really for big concrete jobs. That said it just sucks I'm pretty far from anyone who rents tools. Thanks!
Neat.
^_^ Next vid in 30 mins lol
Make that another 30 because Chrome crashed. 😂
Flip it around and run the cable over the top of the spool.
Edit: you noticed haha
Justin Credible - pulling from the top will lose leverage and put undue stress on the winch motor. An ideal fix would be to cut the stud flush (because it needs done anyways) and then to add a pulley system in front and to the right side of the winch. This would solve two issues at once,
a. It would control the cable positions during use to & from the winch roll.
b. also it would give a multiplier of leverage to create more pound force to whatever is being pulled.
Pulleys are cool, snatch blocks are SUPER cool. Save the stress on your pulling device by utilizing what Archimedes gave to the king.
Yeah what I realized later is it would add stress to the winch mounting by being a higher lever on the entire winch. In the next video I flush cut it and it works out totally fine, luckily. There are a few ways I'd like to do this install different, but almost all of them involve more money! :P
Fair enough. I was only thinking of clearing the bolt
@@justincredible5414 Oh yeah it's def what I was thinking of too. I just got lucky that it clears the bolt when I'm done. :D
This is UA-cam your safety glasses were not enough. A face shield over them is needed, don't forget your faceshield needs protection so another layer of safety glasses or a welding mask is also needed.
Of course. I forgot my UA-cam OSHA approved riot shield! Hahaha. Thanks. :)
Alternatively, don't skip leg day. :D
😂 I always do though.
Click...click...Torqued to factory specs!
Exactly! I shoulda done a voice over.
washers
What about them?
@@802Garage couldnt you have put washers or a plate underneath the winch to raise it
@@CharlesJohnsonCUZ Possibly. I think if I was gonna raise it I would make shims out of steel.
Im first yay
Hahaha, what a boss!
You are not suppose to widen the holes, that kind of defeats the purpose of the system.
Well, no, it doesn't. It's not that simple. It's a function of surface area and force. So provided there is still enough surface area and force, it makes absolutely no difference. It's not like this is something which will be vibrating and shake apart. Given the bolts installed as in this video can likely hold far more force than the winch mechanical components and cable can actually hold, it doesn't defeat the purpose one bit. Basic reasoning and physics, really.
I'm second...
Nice job! Hard to beat Costanza, hah.
0000000000 donki