Burnt PCB Repair Part 2. Repairing the damage and replacing the components
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- Опубліковано 22 бер 2023
- LER #403. Oh dear, here is a PCB that set on fire!!! In part one I worked out what happened and which components were destroyed, in this part I'm gonna try to fix it!
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Part One of this repair is here
• Can We Repair A Burnt ...
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Thank you
Richard
Got to love it when there is a schematic available for devices. Great stuff.
Dicky, that was an awesome 2 part video fix, so happy to see it up and running again, I’m gonna guess the owner will be very pleased it’s fixed, rather than have to fork out for a new one, top job mate, keep up the great work, I’ve learnt a lot from your channel 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia
Awesome 2 part video. Appreciate the breakdown.
I have a simular problem on my sound mixing console, I learned a lot of your repair video. After years of not knowing what to do I will give it a go quite soon. Thank you so much.
Heya, yes love to see these electronics component level repairs great repair
Nice product (solder stick) Finally one advert for something i would actually buy.
Nice to see finished and working device sir.
Wouldn't it be helpful to apply some protection from corrosion on tracks to prolong lifespan of electronics bords in environment like you have there? Something like solder mask?
If I might venture a guess, The electrolytic capacitor leaked oil onto the board, the high voltage begins to heat the fiberglass turning to carbon and slowly becoming a resistor until it begins to draw more than it can take and burn up the surrounding path of the board. Its like that arc art people make with microwave transformers.
I would look to remove a tiny bit more of the carbonisation in-case it conducts. I saw a guy use epoxy resin to fill a carbonised hole after he dug out most of the carbon, worked well to carefully fix an unglued pad while filling and insulating the damage below.
Note that I disconnected the -95V track that passed through this area. There is only 17V circuitry in the damaged area now so honestly I think it will be OK
Same kind of corrosion here in Guernsey. Salt is everywhere in the air. Stainless steel is rusting almost immidiately when left in high humidity area like garage or shed. PC components like ports all covered in rust.
That was really enjoyable, and congratulations for getting to the bottom of it. Keep up the great work 😀👍
Great!! only concern those resistors not solid pcb mounting both ends and stress one end i would have had flush to the board maybe some hot glue
Another great video Richard
what type of wire are you using and how would i repair the round soldering spots
Brilliant repair. Do they do some sort of spray lacquer you can spray the boards to help stop corrosion?
Yes ... Usually called conformal coating. ua-cam.com/video/SOgGghXtUIk/v-deo.html
Can you please advise the voltage rating of these solder sticks?
I will ask
@@LearnElectronicsRepairRepair Thanks Richard. Can you also ask what standards, IEC or otherwise, they are designed, manufactured and tested in accordance with, and if they are CE marked. Thanks
Hi mate, I was wondering if your based in the UK and would consider fixing my rtx 3080? It seems to be having a vram issue and it's beyond my knowledge on how to fix this and I definitely don't have the right equipment. Would appreciate if you could help out? I would pay for your service obviously. Thanks
I'm an English guy based in Maspalomas, Gran Canaria
ide suitcase it and take a trip to the island ))
Worth noting the solderstick product is 25USD for the 50pcs box, not the 500pcs box as shown, the the effective price per piece is 50cent not 5cent as said in the video.
Oops so 500 is $99.99 less the 20% discount code so 16 cents each
@@LearnElectronicsRepair still a great deal I just purchased some myself! Also I might advise to not use these in high current situations as I found no rating on their website...I can imagine cold joints happening from heat cycles...
@@MrMegasuperhawk In the review video I mad, I compared the resistance of a solderstick connector with a soldered one using a micro ohm meter. There was no difference, so the current capability should be the same ua-cam.com/video/e5MQnDgwBqs/v-deo.html
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'm afraid that low melt solder is going to give up the ghost first at any decently high current....there's just no way around that unfortunately
"Mr SolderFix" has done a video showing how easy these are to make yourself with regular solder, if you would like a cheaper option.
Richard - in cases of pcb burn through - it is usually necessary to drill/scrap out the major portion of the affected burnt charred area to prevent further arcing . The pcb substrate has been carbonized where it flashed over and with further exposure to corrosion it will be prone to arc again.
Leo, in general I agree - but in this case you can see that the high voltage -95V track which passed through this area of the board arced over causing damage to the localised 17V circuitry, but does not connect to it.. As I cut the -95V track at both ends, replaced it with a wire, then repaired the low voltage circuitry in the burnt area I don't see how it is going to arc over again. Unless I missed the point you are making somehow. I think this repair is perfectly fine as only 17V low current op-amp circuits exist in that area now. I'm always up for constructive criticism, if you feel that is wrong then let me know, and why you think I should have approached this differently.
@@LearnElectronicsRepairRichard thank you for the reply. The circuit only had a maximum of 95vdc + 17 vdc > 112 vdc so I = E/R.(ac signal here is very low - no effect) DC resistance changed due to corrosion on the pcb thus allowing the current to increase between traces resulting in arc over. The pcb is carbonized at the point of arc over. Possible current - 112 dc amps anywhere the pcb was burnt shows where the pcb substrate was heated to the point of no return. It does take a little work to remove the affected area and reseal the pcb with a waterproof high dielectric to prevent moisture penetration into the pcb. This unit is probably going right back into the same environment that caused the arc over -leaving a carbonized pcb is inviting a future failure - I prefer to minimize my warranty recalls if possible
@@Silverlion49 Yes, but surely by cutting the -95V track (both ends) and re-routing it with a piece of wire, as I did in this video, means that the maximum voltage in this burnt area is now 17V so all will be OK, and to make double sure of that I didn't solder the low voltage op-amp circuitry back into the burnt area either
@@LearnElectronicsRepair agreed no HV but a valid point of consideration to apply the theory on future burnt PCBs
Well done. Not easy (and many so-called engineers wouldn't bother) to isolate such damage, especially when burnt PCB is nearly always conductive to some degree. You know you can drill a hole through to be sure. Personally, I wouldn't have continued if I had wired something incorrectly (listen 21:36), probably after-effects of the sangria, ho, ho.
Why not put the chips and the other components in sockets and then link them together ???? to mee that be easier and if it needs a repair again it be easier to replace also .... I type this at timestamp 3:39 LOL
Yeah I did mention that in the video (for the chips) but as these mixers are portable I was more concerned the IC would come loose