Very impressive. I have one with less than 200 miles on it. Almost all plowing so far. I'm having to hump that thing every single time I stop and back up, or go ahead. Sucks! Glad its a cheap easy DIY fix. Thanks man!
Good job. I just paid $1000 to have that done. Some parts test good but are really bad like on my 570 the tank fuel pump tested good in the shop but would fail if the gas tank was half full. I didn’t mind paying a lot because I don’t know how to work on the clutch and once fixed the machine is good for a long time
Really to fix the Can Am shake “hump” you just need to adjust shifter arm linkage the long arm and the two bends in the shift linkage arm makes it finicky to adjust! They get it close at the factory and call good enough! It’s on the right side under the plastic near your knee. It uses a barrel adjustment with locking nut.
If you struggle to shift while the machine is off and on, this might work. If it shifts fine with the machine off and needs the hump while it's on, then the one way bearing is the way to go
I’ve been STRESSINGGGGG about this on Can-Am Renegade 570 Xxc for weeks, no decent videos on here then bang. Literally first 10 seconds I KNEW this is exactly the video I’ve been searching for! 👍🏻💪🏻🤞🏻
Hoping that’s the fix for mine. The friction ring was broken. So I have new one on order. My belt keeps spinning and spinning the secondary clutch which is causing it to not shift unless it’s off.
@@Jason-ly6ng not bad at all. Hold the primary and break the bolt loose. Then retain the tiny springs on the one way bearing... there are plenty of videos on it
Hey man, awesome video. I have one question. So I just changed out the bearings and added the friction washer, but the atv wants to move forward slowly in high and move backwards slowly in reverse. What could that be? Too much grease, no grease on friction washer? I'm not sure. Hope to hear from you thanks!
So did it almost feel like the ATV was idling too high to get it in and out of gears? That is what I’m having a problem with right now. Put it in reverse and the bike starts moving before I hit the Throttle.
That means you've got clutch drag! Definitely pull the cover off and start it. Carefully see what's going on but do not get near the clutch while it's spinning because you can get seriously injured if the clutch grabs your clothing.
I think im having clutch/trans problems. About a yr ago my shifter just wouldn't engage, before that id always have to rock it in order to get it in gear. I took off my primary clutch and looked into the 1 way bearing and its was all tore up. My question is now that I have the clutch out shouldn't my trans shift freely through all the gears without the bike running? Or does that clutch need to be put back in so the 1 way bearing can engage so the trans/shifter can move through the gears. Cause right now all clutch and belt components are out but my shifter won't move at all, like it stuck in neutral and the shifter rod connected to the trans won't budge. Please help
I think I might have a bigger issue on it now that I took it out today 😢 there's a crack on the passenger side of the transmission housing. Goes all the way from the top to the bottom on that right side, looks like on the casing it bubbles out to house a gear or something on the bottom part of the trans
My outlander 650XT shifts hard at time and only has 177 miles on it. I got it used from someone a few months ago. Would this be the same scenario as your 1000?
Great explanation, I just wish you would have opened it up and demonstrated what you were talking about. A picture is worth a thousand words.
I definitely would have if I weren't pressed for time when I made the video, sorry. Next time though!
This guy gets after it!! thank you brother!!
Very impressive. I have one with less than 200 miles on it. Almost all plowing so far. I'm having to hump that thing every single time I stop and back up, or go ahead. Sucks! Glad its a cheap easy DIY fix. Thanks man!
good information, never thought the clutch set up would cause this problem,
Good job. I just paid $1000 to have that done. Some parts test good but are really bad like on my 570 the tank fuel pump tested good in the shop but would fail if the gas tank was half full. I didn’t mind paying a lot because I don’t know how to work on the clutch and once fixed the machine is good for a long time
Nicely done!
I just bought -10 400 outlander and have that humping problem too. Have to check that friction plate, thanks
Really to fix the Can Am shake “hump” you just need to adjust shifter arm linkage the long arm and the two bends in the shift linkage arm makes it finicky to adjust! They get it close at the factory and call good enough! It’s on the right side under the plastic near your knee. It uses a barrel adjustment with locking nut.
I tried that first. Didn't fix my issue. Thanks for sharing though!
If you struggle to shift while the machine is off and on, this might work. If it shifts fine with the machine off and needs the hump while it's on, then the one way bearing is the way to go
great job man and info thanks
I’ve been STRESSINGGGGG about this on Can-Am Renegade 570 Xxc for weeks, no decent videos on here then bang.
Literally first 10 seconds I KNEW this is exactly the video I’ve been searching for!
👍🏻💪🏻🤞🏻
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Secondary clutch wasn’t shimmed from factory on mine. I shimmed mine .020.
Great info.....thanks
Sounds Good thank you!
Going to try this. Hope it's a fix.
Great video. I have an 06 800xt which does the same. Also, just lost brakes. Handle has no resistance. Any ideas on what that could be?
Not sure brother! Have to look at it to tell.
He is right just move it forward and back the motorcycle and change gears same time the motorcycle and the shift and it would move and it work
Thanks
My 2009 500xt did the same thing!!!
Hell yeah
.
What the brand of the lube do you use for lubrication fricsion seal? Oem to much expensive... Thanks
Yes it is. That's why I used Super Lube.
Hoping that’s the fix for mine. The friction ring was broken. So I have new one on order. My belt keeps spinning and spinning the secondary clutch which is causing it to not shift unless it’s off.
Bearings seam free like you had said so not sure if I want to replace them
@@Jason-ly6ng I would just go ahead while you are in there. Don't want to waste your time
Are the bearings a pain to repair or take off ?
@@Jason-ly6ng not bad at all. Hold the primary and break the bolt loose. Then retain the tiny springs on the one way bearing... there are plenty of videos on it
Perfect. Video was a lifesaver. Thanks
Hi I have a 850 renegade xxc with the same issue. What kit do I need. Gonna try to fix myself. Thank you
Order an aluminum shifter bracket, adjust the shift rod and the problem is fixed
Hey man, awesome video. I have one question. So I just changed out the bearings and added the friction washer, but the atv wants to move forward slowly in high and move backwards slowly in reverse. What could that be? Too much grease, no grease on friction washer? I'm not sure. Hope to hear from you thanks!
Something is creating excess drag. I'd try starting it with the cover off and observing carefully.
Also, thanks for watching!
So did it almost feel like the ATV was idling too high to get it in and out of gears? That is what I’m having a problem with right now. Put it in reverse and the bike starts moving before I hit the Throttle.
That means you've got clutch drag! Definitely pull the cover off and start it.
Carefully see what's going on but do not get near the clutch while it's spinning because you can get seriously injured if the clutch grabs your clothing.
Do you have a video on how you did it?
I don't unfortunately!
I think im having clutch/trans problems. About a yr ago my shifter just wouldn't engage, before that id always have to rock it in order to get it in gear. I took off my primary clutch and looked into the 1 way bearing and its was all tore up. My question is now that I have the clutch out shouldn't my trans shift freely through all the gears without the bike running? Or does that clutch need to be put back in so the 1 way bearing can engage so the trans/shifter can move through the gears. Cause right now all clutch and belt components are out but my shifter won't move at all, like it stuck in neutral and the shifter rod connected to the trans won't budge. Please help
Yes it has to be running in order to shift smothly due to its design. Make sure neither of the clutches are locked up and can spin freely.
I think I might have a bigger issue on it now that I took it out today 😢 there's a crack on the passenger side of the transmission housing. Goes all the way from the top to the bottom on that right side, looks like on the casing it bubbles out to house a gear or something on the bottom part of the trans
@wallygator7508 oh no!! Dude I'm sorry to hear that. Did something specific cause it?
My outlander 650XT shifts hard at time and only has 177 miles on it. I got it used from someone a few months ago. Would this be the same scenario as your 1000?
I would assume so. Probably a design flaw.
What website did you order the parts from
I think the ring came from Amazon and bearings from ebay.
do you have a part number for the friction ring, not sure what Im looking at on the exploded parts view
420460430
Grease is Kluber isoflex topas nb52
How to get into the shifter
You have to remove the plastics and air filter box cover from what I remember.
The 450s don’t have them
I bought a 2017 outlander a year ago and I wish I never did! I've tried everything to make it shift smoother! I hate this $8000 mistake!
Can't beat the power though! That's the only thing it has going for it.
Just want to make sure I’m tracking…. I just need to lube the friction washer?
No you have to lube the one way bearing and replace the friction washer.
@@JimmyLeeTennessee thank you - happen to have the part#?
@@RMC2021 not handy! I believe i looked it up on the Can-AM website.