Great video! Very well done. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Місяць тому
When replacing the retaining ring run your thumb over the outer edges one side is sharper from when the ring was stamped out position the ring with the sharp side out for better retention.
Cheers, I though it was worth sharing that you can change the travel a bit with the bike part shortage and all. Save waiting for the perfect spec Z1 coil coming into stock.
If i am just changing the spring to a firmer weight, do I just remove the top cap, pull out the old spring, grease the new one, throw the new one in and screw the top cap back on? or do I have to add more oil in or anything like that? This will be a brand new, out of the box fork when I do this, any info is greatly appreciated! Thanks
You are correct, just open the top cap, grease and swap. No need to add oil for a spring swap. Just remember the plastic anti rattle part that goes around the spring.
You say "add 5cc's" to the coil chamber, but it looks like your adding quite a bit more. Is there a benefit to having more oil in the coil chamber? Great video, very well done!
Soo missed your comments, lol girthier! To be honest I don’t think the exact amount of oil really matters to much in the coil side, it just lubricates the lower leg. If it was 5 or 10cc i think it’ll be fine.
Probably a dumb question but do you have to remove the lowers to swamp out to a firmer spring. You can’t just take of the top cap and slide out medium spring and then put in the firm spring? Is there to much pressure on the spring without removing bottom legs 🤔
Yeah for a spring swap you just need to remove the top cap. There’s a little pressure on it, nothing crazy though. It’ll help if you wind off the preload. It’s not going to end up shooting through the ceiling.
@@MozOnBikes so meaning that the fork won’t compress fully and will lock out before bottoming out due to those spacers. And I just found out the bike that I’m getting will be an air suspension fork not a coiled one, does the same rule and process of changing the travel still apply.
I would stick to fork oil rather than motor oil that’s for sure. I’m not sure if the fork oil rating and engine oil is the same thing. My instinct is fork oil is much lighter.
@@MozOnBikes i see but assuming the fork in your video is 29er, theres 2 spacers inside, on top of the spring, if i take one off, would that make it to 180? Or whats the limitation why 29er only go up to 170mm?
Nope, if you remove the spacers totally and not replace them the spring will be rattling around loose in the fork. The forks travel is limited by the spring, spring shaft, damper shaft in the other leg and to a lesser extent the bushing to stanchion over lap in the fork lower legs.
Nope. I mean you can but it won’t adjust the travel as your not altering the free length of the shaft. Your just removing preload from the spring and letting it sit lower. When you pull on your bars you’ll be back to original travel and have a very soft fork.
@@MozOnBikes so is it mandatory to remove the lowers in order to change the spring? I would like to insert a firmer spring without much of a service like its done in your video...
Sorry I didn’t get notified of your reply. It should come with the fork or any spring you buy for it. It should help stop the spring rattling inside the fork.
Thanks! I was looking for a good video on changing just the spring but I love that this covers changing travel, too. Great job!
Great tip on using a small socket to remove the lowers! The tool fox sells is quite expensive and I hate tools that do only one job.
Like most things have 2 jobs. Penis has 3 Vagina has 3 or 4
Great video! Very well done. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
When replacing the retaining ring run your thumb over the outer edges one side is sharper from when the ring was stamped out position the ring with the sharp side out for better retention.
Perfekt Video! Thanks from Germany.👍
Thanks, this was very helpful.
Great video! could you make one with the proper maintenance of this fork?
Nice vid helped ne Lots
Great video! Thanks for that!
Cheers, I though it was worth sharing that you can change the travel a bit with the bike part shortage and all. Save waiting for the perfect spec Z1 coil coming into stock.
@@MozOnBikes do you know if the process is the same for the air version?
If i am just changing the spring to a firmer weight, do I just remove the top cap, pull out the old spring, grease the new one, throw the new one in and screw the top cap back on? or do I have to add more oil in or anything like that? This will be a brand new, out of the box fork when I do this, any info is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
You are correct, just open the top cap, grease and swap. No need to add oil for a spring swap. Just remember the plastic anti rattle part that goes around the spring.
Do you know what size the socket/spanner is required to undo the spring preload adjuster top cap???
32mm
Thank you!
You say "add 5cc's" to the coil chamber, but it looks like your adding quite a bit more. Is there a benefit to having more oil in the coil chamber?
Great video, very well done!
Watched it again in slo-mo. I guess my tube is just girthier than your tube, lol!
Soo missed your comments, lol girthier! To be honest I don’t think the exact amount of oil really matters to much in the coil side, it just lubricates the lower leg. If it was 5 or 10cc i think it’ll be fine.
what about the air type fork?need part to changing travel?
Does it only change the travel of the fork? Not the lentgh/height? The stanchions still is 170mm after the change but travel is 150?
I’ve not measured, but thinking about it logically it must change the overall length of the fork by the spacer amount.
I'm a bit confused, can you still adjust air pressure on this fork or is it purely done with preload?
Only preload. Buttom out resistance is done by an airchamber but that you cant ajust
If you add two more, (total of 4), would that reduce the travel to 130
mm?
Actually it's designed round a 140 but is safe to 160. Cy's words BTW.
Probably a dumb question but do you have to remove the lowers to swamp out to a firmer spring. You can’t just take of the top cap and slide out medium spring and then put in the firm spring? Is there to much pressure on the spring without removing bottom legs 🤔
Yeah for a spring swap you just need to remove the top cap. There’s a little pressure on it, nothing crazy though.
It’ll help if you wind off the preload.
It’s not going to end up shooting through the ceiling.
I thought to change the travel you just, add or remove spacers from the top of the fork.
No! You’ll 20mm of unsprung travel doing that. Every time you lifted the wheel off the floor you’d still get 170mm
@@MozOnBikes so meaning that the fork won’t compress fully and will lock out before bottoming out due to those spacers. And I just found out the bike that I’m getting will be an air suspension fork not a coiled one, does the same rule and process of changing the travel still apply.
I have one of the short travel 29 Bomber Z1s from 2019. Can I turn my 130 into a 140 or 150 coil?
Sorry missed your comment, to be honest I’m not sure. I think it’ll depend on if it a fox era version or not.
Would adding thicker oil to the damper side slow the damping … have you experimented w this?
Sure would! This is one of many ways to really dial in the damping to your taste.
Can you use just any 20w and 5w oil, or does it have to be a special kind?
I would stick to fork oil rather than motor oil that’s for sure. I’m not sure if the fork oil rating and engine oil is the same thing. My instinct is fork oil is much lighter.
Can youu travel adjust a 29er 170mm to 180mm?
I think if I remember right,on the 650b version you can go between 160 and 180. The 29er version only goes to 170.
@@MozOnBikes i see but assuming the fork in your video is 29er, theres 2 spacers inside, on top of the spring, if i take one off, would that make it to 180? Or whats the limitation why 29er only go up to 170mm?
Nope, if you remove the spacers totally and not replace them the spring will be rattling around loose in the fork. The forks travel is limited by the spring, spring shaft, damper shaft in the other leg and to a lesser extent the bushing to stanchion over lap in the fork lower legs.
Cant you simply take out the two spacers at the top completely without having to open the lower part of the fork? Cheers
Nope. I mean you can but it won’t adjust the travel as your not altering the free length of the shaft. Your just removing preload from the spring and letting it sit lower. When you pull on your bars you’ll be back to original travel and have a very soft fork.
@@MozOnBikes so is it mandatory to remove the lowers in order to change the spring? I would like to insert a firmer spring without much of a service like its done in your video...
@@kriztyle5295 if it’s just a spring swap there’s not need to remove the lowers. This is a how to change travel guide.
whered you get that torque socket wrench from?
It’s was from Wiggle/CRC
after doing this...my bomber z1 got a weird sound " rattle" any idea what happen in my marzocchi?
1. You forgot the isolators? Or
2. To little /much grease on coil?
Theres a great manual on mrazocchis website to make sure u fitted them all right
Where did you get that blue pipe.
The blue plastic isolators or the blue bike stand?!?
@@MozOnBikes the blue plastic inside the fork lower leg and the preload
watched the video again, yes the plastic isolators
Sorry I didn’t get notified of your reply. It should come with the fork or any spring you buy for it. It should help stop the spring rattling inside the fork.
27.5 or 29?
It’s the same process for both, but mine are the 29in version. I think the travel options for the 27.5 is from 160-180?
@@MozOnBikes Thanks for the info dude 👊🏻
Didn’t you forget to refill the oil on the other stanchion ?
Nope, watch the video again.
Found it. Thanks. Super helpful
The way you said dribbling and knob gets me hard