As a structural engineer, I don't recommend hanging anything more than 25 lbs from drywall; if anything is heavier, try to attach it directly to the stud.
I think most folks that have a bit of understanding of how sheet rock is made and that its not for very heavy things, would likely use these as secondary "no stud here" options but still use studs as well. I tend to use a horizontal metal bracket or even 2x4 if needed mounted to 2 or more studs, then hang things from that depending on the weight, especially a larger tv or mirror or something. But this is pretty slick how much one of these holds. I'd always use at least two if not three (or even more) to ensure the weight is distributed across a few.
I've been attaching things to drywall for over 3 decades. Came across these claws about 5 years ago and they are perfect for hanging light domestic items such as framed pictures, small carvings, kitchen implements etc. Never had a failure and easy to repair if we change our mind. Still hang the few heavier things using traditional techniques.
Why didn’t you do the test on a 16” stud to stud drywall? The way you did it has more holding of the drywall and technically drywalls are secured by 16” space between studs
If you are going to hang something like a TV screen or similar sized object that will hide the wall behind it you can just get a piece of plywood wide enough to reach the outer edges of the studs and tall enough for the mounting bracket and simply screw the plywood into the studs and then screw the mounting bracket into the plywood. That way you avoid attaching anything heavy into the drywall.
That's what I always do as well. If the garage wall (or whatever wall you are working with) is painted, I simply paint the board/plywood or 2x4 to match the wall....screw it into the studs (I like to span across so that I at least reach two studs) and now I have a platform for which I can hang whatever I want, wherever I want on that piece since it is anchored securely onto at least two studs.
@@jbranche8024 Amen to that! I'm the same way. I would rather have an overly secure mounting board as opposed to an overly expensive piece of equipment crashing to the floor and costing a fortune in damages and/or God forbid medical bills.
Thank you for a practical introduction to the fasteners. Ignore the windbag engineer and company. The real world has infinite variables that make accurate measurements entirely irelevant. I love your work.
The problem with any of these types of devices is the use of the spade bit. If you press too hard while drilling you will blow out the backside of the sheetrock and severely decrease the strength of the device.
With all respect, let's be honest if one makes that mistake once (mounting anchors for the first time) at the latest by the second one it should be clear that one should not be so bullish when drilling or not? In addition there is always the option to use a hole saw. There are so many sizes available these days. Just my opinion. Have a good day.
@@robertthomas6127. How would you know if you blew out the back of the hole unless you cut into the wall and inspected it? I think the last one he discussed, Wingit I think it was, is probably the best choice for this very reason. These anchor designs have gotten so good over the years, they are getting to the point where the limiting factor is the strength of the drywall itself. So probably the only way to make anchors stronger is to increase the surface area they contact on the backside of the drywall. The more surface area you use, the less significant that blow out issue is. But of course, there are often obstacles in the wall that will limit how big these anchors can get.
Your point is granted, and anyone who cares about quality work knows that already. Thin wall hole saws are the best option...meaning that the thickness of the hole saw cylinder is the least necessary for the tool to last. Keep it sharp.@@Pseudify
Also, if you don't want that hole in the wall after a few months\years, it's a lot harder to fix. Regular compound won't stay in that size of a hole. Not to mention the size it'll be after you take out or tap in the anchor.
@@Pseudify .... How would one know? I wrote "Don't be bullish when drilling". Constantly people can be observed pressing like they a drilling for oil. Feeling is what one needs. If one doesn't have that then let someone else do it. 😉
Thanks for creating this content though. I must admit, I was unaware of these style of anchors and it is good to know something beefier exists should I ever need it. @@FixThisHouse
I have used the Wingits for bathroom safety bars. They are the best I have ever used for hollow wall installation. The problem with all hollow wall fasteners is not always the weight pulling down flush to the wall. That has almost as much to do with how strong the drywall board is. Thickness would make a difference. A major consideration for many applications is how much weight pulling away from the wall. Shelving being the primary concern. Using any drywall anchor with shelving has this issue. I would like to see a test of how much weight or force it takes to pull it straight out of the wall.
this guy did a pull test on various anchors. although not related to these, still very useful. 2nd half of the video. ua-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/v-deo.html
Bought the Bullfix after your review and LOVE them. Got the 10 pack and have used about half of them already. I've had a hard time in the past finding good anchors that really work and are easy to use and can't thank you enough!
I’ve been in the construction industry for over 30 years and I’ve always used toggle bolts to hang anything into drywall. For light weight items I’ve always used the zinc ez anchors. Never had any problems with either except once when using toggles the toggle bolts actually loosened up a little bit after 2 years of heavy use. So I just went up the next size in the toggle bolt and never got a return call.
I have a very heavy statue that I want to hang ( 50kg ), I want to fix a large panel ( 40cm x 70cm height x 2.2xm thick ) of strong wood with 4 or 6 toggle bolts onto the drywall ( no studs at this place ), then place another wood panel with squares, fixed on the first wood panel, then put my statue on it. Would you say it's ok ?
Wing-its are advertised at Home Depot as supporting up to 300 lbs. I've used them for stair hand-railings when there was no stud within an acceptable reach. After a couple years use they've held up OK I did not find them snapping in a 3/4" hole as easy as you did. I had to slightly enlarge the hole. I do think any test of drywall anchors should include an outward (pull) test as well as a shear test. Any heavy item of any thickness (like a TV mount) is going to exert quite a bit of pull force. Even if the manufacturer says not to use them for such applications, people are going to do it so it would be good to know if any of these are weak.
All seem reliable. Matter of personal preference. Sure helps when a stud isn’t available but always more drywall than studs. Walls are your best storage areas when floor space is filled. Great upgrades from older versions of anchors, thanks for showing.
How do you not include EZ Anchors, FFS? EZ Anchors pretty easy to install, and, in my experience, are more likely to pull the drywall OFF the studs than they are to surrender @ the anchor (Yes, literally had that happen. The whole drywall section was pulling off the stud due to a bookshelf (with lots of books on it) that I'd secured with EZ Anchors -- resecured the drywall and spread the weight across more EZAs, problem solved). And they're probably much cheaper than any of these 3, certainly cheaper than the first 2. Biggest issue with EZAs is avoiding the studs and any other internal bracing. EZAs are better than pretty much any other anchor for anything except brick or cinder block walls. And the holes, once it is removed (it screws right back out, and is even nominally re-usable, leaving a hole the bore of the EZA) are no bigger than a simple spackle application.
These are pretty clever products. A not too costly option. Initially I was very skeptical. But after watching the entire video I remembered how many times the important part of my favorite anchors have fallen into the cavity, requiring the number of actual anchors versus the ones lost, meaning profiting from the job and not having the expected return. I favor in the special fasteners when needed, but I can’t add more just because I lost them all n the wall. (I can, but that isn’t ethical.) I think I’ll be investing in these for a trial. Always open for a better option, especially when it reduces wasted time. ❤ Studs are ALWAYS the best way. However it’s not always an option to have them exactly where they need to be. My last experience with that was where the only (usable) stud was in the dead center. Another issue is when they are 24” spaced, and I have only a 16” spaced tv mount. Many of my jobs are in a high rise building with metal studs. Sometimes I’d like to simply use a lighter duty fastener such as these so I don’t necessarily want to deal with metal studs. A tilt only or flush mount, these would take 10 min. to do the job. Exterior or a shared wall, with insulation, these would really be a great option. ❤❤❤
So far, for stuff I might hang on drywall such as a cat shelf, I find the plastic screw in fasteners to be more than adequate. I have two cat shelves 12" wide mounted on 2 regular 90deg shelf brackets (3 screws in the wall each) that have taken having 14lbs cats jumping on them for years and they are still tight.
Hello, Very well done presentation. Interesting products. 👍 I'd assume that in most cases one will be using more than one anchor and therefore their capacity will not be overloaded. Also in many cases the first two anchors can be installed for objects such as Towel rods, toilet papier holders and similar which once mounted remain for decades, but tend to be items that are often ripped out of the wall when mounted with standard anchors. Thank you for presenting them.
i am happy with snap toggle brand. little smaller hole. won't drop the toggle. for any thickness wall. not saying they are perfect, but they hold a lot. if i used something to hold over 100 lbs., i think i would have to find a way to reinforce it within the wall.
As a pro flat screen tv mounter, these seem pretty effective, though I don’t think I’d be comfortable if the mount was a full motion articulating device. Unless of course the FSTV is very lightweight. Under 55” are usually only 25-30lbs.
Testing the performance of the anchor in mostly a shear load scenario doesn’t capture many use case scenarios where the load is actually away from the wall by up to a foot.
I agree. As when mounting a towel rack in the bathroom that's 2" - 3" from the wall. Now you have to deal with the cantilever effect when hanging towels or hand pressure on the towell rack. .but Istill like the BULLFIX over the others
The Winglts cost $5.75 each & have to make a 3/4" hole Gripit cost $1.91 each and its not go flush with the wall also have to make a 3/4" hole Bullfix cost $2.37each & have to make a 3/4" hole The bigger the hole the more distance you have to give between anchors. TOGGLE 3/16" hold 802lbs and the hole is only 1/2" Cost $1.25 each 10 pack or $0.80 on pack of 100 easy to find in main hardware stores.
Until you hang something that pulls directly down you’ll realize exactly why you should’ve have used the toggle bolt lmao. Or something you need to mount on the head of the bolt. I think there might be some sleeves for the bolts but either way not always the best solution and if you’re going that way get the plastic zip tie ones I forgot what they’re called but they stay in the wall after removing the bolt and they support downward weight better.
The WingIts Drywall Anchors are for a wall thicknes of up to 1.2 inches and would be the only ones that could be used on a 1 hour fire rated wall that requires either 2 layers of 1/2" or 2 layers of 5/8" drywall {rock). although I am curious if they would work on double 5/8" rock witch measures 1.25 inches.
The anchors may be rated for heavy weights, but I would never trust drywall to hold up to that much stress over a prolonged time. Of the 3 I'd use the Bullfix, because it is easy to remove. Just unscrew to retract the wings, and pop it out.
Unscrewing the screw doesn’t retract the wings. He tapped it in with a hammer and then the screw goes in after, so if the screw is then removed, it doesn’t pull the wings with it
@@TimmyTheSnailyou are correct. Also may I add (regarding the 3 anchors), the Gripit is reusable and can be used in situations where the plasterboard is inches away from the wall... example dot & dab walls.
@@kaywhite4920the GripIt in theory is reusable, but since the wings construction was changed from metal to plastic, I’ve found once they are tightened up against the plasterboard, they become partially damaged/deformed. The bullfix can also get into a tight gap due to not much sticking through as you place it in the wall part of it, and then as you tap it in further with the hammer, it’s getting closer and closer to the back of the plasterboard
Thanks so much for this video! I think the Gripit will work well for me in a bathroom that has had wainscoting placed over tile and a very small gap between the wainscoting and the tile.
Several have mentioned that if you are hanging heavy items you should fasten into the wall studs instead of using drywall anchors. Often that would be better, but it depends on the studs. Wood studs are great, but metal studs can be problematic. For one, metal studs used for interior drywall partitions in homes are often the lightest duty made, 25 gauge or less. The issue with that is fastener pullout. In this case heavy duty drywall anchors are a better choice than fastening to the studs. Heavier gauge metal studs can hold fasteners plenty strong enough, if the correct fastener is used and it is also installed correctly. I used to do fine art installations for museums, galleries and collectors, and I've mounted some very heavy items on a wide variety of wall types. There is always a way, though sometimes it takes quite a bit of work. One pretty easy solution if the object will cover it, for example a large 50 kg mirror, is to make a French cleat out of plywood, making the wall half as large as practical and attach it to the wall with lots of heavy duty drywall anchors such as large toggle bolts or Wing-Its.
Thanks for making this video. I found it very useful. I like the BullFix best, because it requires the least amount of clearance behind the wall. This matters when you are hanging something on a wall with insulation in it.
Two words: Strap Toggles. I use those for most of my heavy wall mounting applications. No huge hole, ease to use, cheap, and plenty of strength because it distributes the force over a larger surface area than any of the anchors demonstrated here.
Working trades I spend most of my time avoiding damage to drywall, main thing I hate about the strong anchors is having to drill such a large hole for it.
I also noticed the bowling equipment too LOL. What kinda equipment do you have? I was allowed to buy the Storm Hy-Road (2023 batch) and a used Storm Dark Code.
I added 4 grab bars in my bathroom and shower. I would have preferred to have attached them to the studs in the wall, but that was bot possible. I used the Wingits, and they worked great.
Keeping the 2x4 studs being so slide the wall can hold. But on a regular spacing it weakens the drywall. I rather go for the studs to hold in my opinion but that is good they are better then your average ones
Load bearing code where i am is 16" on center. Thats a big span to try hanging anything over 20 pounds. Especially drilling big ass holes in my wall to fix later.
The larger the hole, the larger the contacted area between the anchor and the drywall, which helps reduce pressure on drywall's contacted area. If they make a practicable simple plastic anchor as big (diameter-wise) as that, it will be able to support the same claimed weight.
Since the 90's I have been using SnapToggle heavy duty BA/BB Toggler and they only require a 1/2 (13mm) inch hole can easily support over 238 pounds (108 kg) in 1/2 inch drywall. They are less destructive to the drywall and are simple to use and readily available at most hardware stores. You should compare these and you see how much better and easier they are to use. @FixThisHouse actually covered these in a video about year ago.
Snaptoggles are definitely better than all of these, but they CANNOT "easily support over 238 pounds (108 kg) in 1/2 inch drywall" You should read the instructions / specs from the manufacturer very carefully. As with most wall anchors those are 'ultimate' loads aka the load at which the wall FAILED. The instructions clearly state that you need to divide those numbers by a safety factor of four. In 1/2" drywall the maximum safe working load (if they drywall is in perfect condition) is 60 lbs tension / 62 pounds shear. Which is about as strong as you're going to get for any drywall anchor. It seems like nearly everyone, including many 'professionals' and people with youtube channels, have no understanding of safety factors, and are constantly quoting the FAILURE ratings as if that is the working load rating. By the way this isn't even factoring in the adjustments you need to make for cantilever forces (for things like shelves), or additional stress applied by motion or vibration that needs to be accounted for in many cases.
@@danstheman33 I have a very heavy statue that I want to hang, I want to fix a large panel ( 40cm x 70cm height x 2.2xm thick ) of strong wood with 4 or 6 toggle bolts onto the drywall ( no studs at this place ), to have a maximum contact surface, then place another wood panel with squares, fixed on the first wood panel with wood screws, then put my statue on it. Statue + all pieces ( wood, squares ) should be around 40 kg. Would you say it's ok ?
I have a collection of valuable vintage guitars, and I won't use anything but Toggler's Straptoggles on the wall hangers. They're rated for 265 lbs. and they're a breeze to install. No, none of my guitars weighs that much, but I never have to worry about them falling off the wall.
How about an evaluation of tensile and shear using a 1/4" drill bit compatible anchor. Aren't we looking for the highest strength with the smallest drill hole while avoiding a protruding flange?
These all require a huge hole, and only work with standard drywall thicknesses (not thicker or less typical walls like plaster). For these walls, there are much better options like Snaptoggles, which require a smaller hole, are much stronger, and work with a much wider range of wall thicknesses. I looked into the Gripit recently, and of all of these, it is the one that offered a unique potential advantage- it only requires a very small cavity behind the wall. It only requires a 1/4" cavity, according to information I found on Amazon (even though this critical information is not listed anywhere on the product website or the packaging..). However, this potential advantage is irrelevant most of the time when you're working with standard drywall, and these only work with drywall up to 5/8" thick. That doesn't allow for a double layer of drywall, or slightly thicker drywall that is often encountered when 5/8" drywall has a thick layer of mud, and certainly doesn't allow for plaster. If they made a version of this that could work in 1" walls or thicker, with the same 1/4" clearance, then this would be a useful product that could work where others don't. And might justify the huge hole that you have to drill, and which for many people will have to be patched in the future. But as it is, none of these are worth using ever, as there are better products that leave a smaller hole and are stronger, and work in nearly any scenario where these will.
Of the 3 devices, which one(s) cant be removed if you decide you no longer want something hanging on your wall? Seems to me all three would have to be permanent with no way to remove.
The first and second *may* be able to be recovered after installation, but any time you're using an anchor you're going to have at least *some* repair work after you remove the mounting hardware.
All the anchors in my opinion are decent products. However ONLY the Gripit is reusable and can be used in situations where the plasterboard is inches away from the wall (because only a small screw needed and provided to activate wing mechanism) example dot & dab plastered walls. The other anchors cannot perform the aforementioned tasks.
If you look closely on the front lip, there should be a small arrow. Place the anchor with this arrow pointing upwards. Why? Because the position of the "wings" when opened is important. :-)
The spade bit is a super bad idea . they tend to rip up the surface as they enter and exit material . It is the paper that creates the strength on dry wall , so if it's torn away from the edge of the hole ,you risk failure of the anchor . it won't be possible to see the damage /tear on the back side so you don't know if the little wings are spreading out over bare drywall or not .
I have used the Wingits, and they claim 300lb sheer strength. I used them to install safety bars in a friends, shower. 1 time he slipped in the shower and later called me and said they worked well because he grabbed it when he slipped and didn't fall. He weighed over 300lbs. at the time and was grateful they were there.
I wonder if Plasterboard and Drywall have the same strength, I assume it cannot be that different? Anyway you translated the measurements wrong, Imperial and US are similar, Metric is different. 12.5mm is near enough half an inch for example. A smidge under.
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- BULLFIX Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/3NVtYUO
- GRIPIT Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/3vz13zh
- WingIts Drywall Anchors - amzn.to/47sgJBZ
- Spade Bit Kit - amzn.to/48AxewQ
- Cordless Drill - amzn.to/48Axo7q
Great job on the demonstration, thank you very much.
As a structural engineer, I don't recommend hanging anything more than 25 lbs from drywall; if anything is heavier, try to attach it directly to the stud.
Agree… Thanks for this
Yes, but this is for times when it does not align with stud.
Thank you for sharing!
I agree as well! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
As a homeowner i do what i want.
I think most folks that have a bit of understanding of how sheet rock is made and that its not for very heavy things, would likely use these as secondary "no stud here" options but still use studs as well. I tend to use a horizontal metal bracket or even 2x4 if needed mounted to 2 or more studs, then hang things from that depending on the weight, especially a larger tv or mirror or something. But this is pretty slick how much one of these holds. I'd always use at least two if not three (or even more) to ensure the weight is distributed across a few.
I like the Bullfix the best but I would use a hole saw as opposed to the spade bit to reduce the possibility of blowout on the back side.
I've been attaching things to drywall for over 3 decades. Came across these claws about 5 years ago and they are perfect for hanging light domestic items such as framed pictures, small carvings, kitchen implements etc.
Never had a failure and easy to repair if we change our mind. Still hang the few heavier things using traditional techniques.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the love and support! Means a lot my friend 🙏🏽😊🥰
Very concise and to the point, no long winded "introduction".
Thank you for your feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Why didn’t you do the test on a 16” stud to stud drywall? The way you did it has more holding of the drywall and technically drywalls are secured by 16” space between studs
If you are going to hang something like a TV screen or similar sized object that will hide the wall behind it you can just get a piece of plywood wide enough to reach the outer edges of the studs and tall enough for the mounting bracket and simply screw the plywood into the studs and then screw the mounting bracket into the plywood. That way you avoid attaching anything heavy into the drywall.
That's what I always do as well. If the garage wall (or whatever wall you are working with) is painted, I simply paint the board/plywood or 2x4 to match the wall....screw it into the studs (I like to span across so that I at least reach two studs) and now I have a platform for which I can hang whatever I want, wherever I want on that piece since it is anchored securely onto at least two studs.
Did that with 2 x 4's as well. I know it is over kill but I don't ever have to worry about it falling off
@@jbranche8024 Amen to that! I'm the same way. I would rather have an overly secure mounting board as opposed to an overly expensive piece of equipment crashing to the floor and costing a fortune in damages and/or God forbid medical bills.
that's a smart idea. I'll have to remember this next time I hang up a flat screen tv
Thank you for a practical introduction to the fasteners. Ignore the windbag engineer and company. The real world has infinite variables that make accurate measurements entirely irelevant. I love your work.
Zip toggles are good too, $1 a pop. I put 3 in and mounted a pull out tv mount 24". I can hang on it fully extended.
The problem with any of these types of devices is the use of the spade bit. If you press too hard while drilling you will blow out the backside of the sheetrock and severely decrease the strength of the device.
With all respect, let's be honest if one makes that mistake once (mounting anchors for the first time) at the latest by the second one it should be clear that one should not be so bullish when drilling or not? In addition there is always the option to use a hole saw. There are so many sizes available these days. Just my opinion. Have a good day.
@@robertthomas6127. How would you know if you blew out the back of the hole unless you cut into the wall and inspected it? I think the last one he discussed, Wingit I think it was, is probably the best choice for this very reason. These anchor designs have gotten so good over the years, they are getting to the point where the limiting factor is the strength of the drywall itself. So probably the only way to make anchors stronger is to increase the surface area they contact on the backside of the drywall. The more surface area you use, the less significant that blow out issue is. But of course, there are often obstacles in the wall that will limit how big these anchors can get.
Your point is granted, and anyone who cares about quality work knows that already. Thin wall hole saws are the best option...meaning that the thickness of the hole saw cylinder is the least necessary for the tool to last. Keep it sharp.@@Pseudify
Also, if you don't want that hole in the wall after a few months\years, it's a lot harder to fix. Regular compound won't stay in that size of a hole. Not to mention the size it'll be after you take out or tap in the anchor.
@@Pseudify .... How would one know? I wrote "Don't be bullish when drilling". Constantly people can be observed pressing like they a drilling for oil. Feeling is what one needs. If one doesn't have that then let someone else do it. 😉
Why does your test rig have the studs so close together? Why not have them spaced a standard 16 inch stud spacing to make it more a realistic test?
That’s what I was wondering.
Thanks for sharing! Next test I’ll do it in my regular mock up. I’ll add support legs 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Thanks for creating this content though. I must admit, I was unaware of these style of anchors and it is good to know something beefier exists should I ever need it. @@FixThisHouse
bullfix-fixings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/bf_datasheet.pdf
ua-cam.com/video/bsuz-CtCbiI/v-deo.html
I have used the Wingits for bathroom safety bars. They are the best I have ever used for hollow wall installation. The problem with all hollow wall fasteners is not always the weight pulling down flush to the wall. That has almost as much to do with how strong the drywall board is. Thickness would make a difference. A major consideration for many applications is how much weight pulling away from the wall. Shelving being the primary concern. Using any drywall anchor with shelving has this issue. I would like to see a test of how much weight or force it takes to pull it straight out of the wall.
this guy did a pull test on various anchors. although not related to these, still very useful. 2nd half of the video. ua-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/v-deo.html
Project Farm needs to test this.
Good idea. Can you suggest it to them?
Bought the Bullfix after your review and LOVE them. Got the 10 pack and have used about half of them already. I've had a hard time in the past finding good anchors that really work and are easy to use and can't thank you enough!
I have used the Wing-it to install grab bars for bathtubs and showers and they worked very well.
I live in Canada and oftenbuse these for projects but I find the wing design or butterfly design is the best.
Can use any of the anchors for hanging flat screen televisions
I normally do what you do, used the stud . But I the stud is not in the center of the room
No, you want to use toggler bolts for wall mounting TVs.
Use 1/4 “ snap toggles.
BULLFIX fixings look Great and have a right good 'name' online too. Four of these for say a TV Bracket would be fantastic and never fail.
Thank you for your feedback! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
That's exactly how I plan to hang my TV.
I’ve been in the construction industry for over 30 years and I’ve always used toggle bolts to hang anything into drywall.
For light weight items I’ve always used the zinc ez anchors. Never had any problems with either except once when using toggles the toggle bolts actually loosened up a little bit after 2 years of heavy use. So I just went up the next size in the toggle bolt and never got a return call.
I have a very heavy statue that I want to hang ( 50kg ), I want to fix a large panel ( 40cm x 70cm height x 2.2xm thick ) of strong wood with 4 or 6 toggle bolts onto the drywall ( no studs at this place ), then place another wood panel with squares, fixed on the first wood panel, then put my statue on it. Would you say it's ok ?
I’d have a hard time of drilling a hole that large into my drywall for a wall anchor
I know it’s hard,but don’t worry I’ll show a video on how to fix them easy 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHousewhere’s this video?
Wing-its are advertised at Home Depot as supporting up to 300 lbs. I've used them for stair hand-railings when there was no stud within an acceptable reach. After a couple years use they've held up OK I did not find them snapping in a 3/4" hole as easy as you did. I had to slightly enlarge the hole.
I do think any test of drywall anchors should include an outward (pull) test as well as a shear test. Any heavy item of any thickness (like a TV mount) is going to exert quite a bit of pull force. Even if the manufacturer says not to use them for such applications, people are going to do it so it would be good to know if any of these are weak.
Most anchors are rated for sheer strength. Drywall is compressed chalk. It will not hold up to forward force.
All seem reliable. Matter of personal preference. Sure helps when a stud isn’t available but always more drywall than studs. Walls are your best storage areas when floor space is filled. Great upgrades from older versions of anchors, thanks for showing.
How do you not include EZ Anchors, FFS?
EZ Anchors pretty easy to install, and, in my experience, are more likely to pull the drywall OFF the studs than they are to surrender @ the anchor (Yes, literally had that happen. The whole drywall section was pulling off the stud due to a bookshelf (with lots of books on it) that I'd secured with EZ Anchors -- resecured the drywall and spread the weight across more EZAs, problem solved). And they're probably much cheaper than any of these 3, certainly cheaper than the first 2.
Biggest issue with EZAs is avoiding the studs and any other internal bracing. EZAs are better than pretty much any other anchor for anything except brick or cinder block walls. And the holes, once it is removed (it screws right back out, and is even nominally re-usable, leaving a hole the bore of the EZA) are no bigger than a simple spackle application.
I have used that third example in bathrooms where there were no studs. Used to hold grab bars. They are very strong
These are pretty clever products. A not too costly option.
Initially I was very skeptical. But after watching the entire video I remembered how many times the important part of my favorite anchors have fallen into the cavity, requiring the number of actual anchors versus the ones lost, meaning profiting from the job and not having the expected return.
I favor in the special fasteners when needed, but I can’t add more just because I lost them all n the wall. (I can, but that isn’t ethical.)
I think I’ll be investing in these for a trial. Always open for a better option, especially when it reduces wasted time. ❤
Studs are ALWAYS the best way. However it’s not always an option to have them exactly where they need to be.
My last experience with that was where the only (usable) stud was in the dead center.
Another issue is when they are 24” spaced, and I have only a 16” spaced tv mount.
Many of my jobs are in a high rise building with metal studs. Sometimes I’d like to simply use a lighter duty fastener such as these so I don’t necessarily want to deal with metal studs. A tilt only or flush mount, these would take 10 min. to do the job. Exterior or a shared wall, with insulation, these would really be a great option. ❤❤❤
I would use a zip-toggler in 3/16 or 1/4 inch because they only require a 1/2 inch hole. Less problem to patch when you remove it.
So far, for stuff I might hang on drywall such as a cat shelf, I find the plastic screw in fasteners to be more than adequate. I have two cat shelves 12" wide mounted on 2 regular 90deg shelf brackets (3 screws in the wall each) that have taken having 14lbs cats jumping on them for years and they are still tight.
Hello, Very well done presentation. Interesting products. 👍 I'd assume that in most cases one will be using more than one anchor and therefore their capacity will not be overloaded. Also in many cases the first two anchors can be installed for objects such as Towel rods, toilet papier holders and similar which once mounted remain for decades, but tend to be items that are often ripped out of the wall when mounted with standard anchors. Thank you for presenting them.
i am happy with snap toggle brand. little smaller hole. won't drop the toggle. for any thickness wall. not saying they are perfect, but they hold a lot. if i used something to hold over 100 lbs., i think i would have to find a way to reinforce it within the wall.
Those holes are even bigger than a toggler bolt anchor hole I would just use those instead especially for tv mounting
Thank you for sharing your experience and feedback! 🙏🏽😊
As a pro flat screen tv mounter, these seem pretty effective, though I don’t think I’d be comfortable if the mount was a full motion articulating device. Unless of course the FSTV is very lightweight. Under 55” are usually only 25-30lbs.
Testing the performance of the anchor in mostly a shear load scenario doesn’t capture many use case scenarios where the load is actually away from the wall by up to a foot.
ua-cam.com/video/bsuz-CtCbiI/v-deo.html
bullfix-fixings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/bf_datasheet.pdf
I agree. As when mounting a towel rack in the bathroom that's 2" - 3" from the wall. Now you have to deal with the cantilever effect when hanging towels or hand pressure on the towell rack. .but Istill like the BULLFIX over the others
Thanks for sharing. I have only tried the Wingit anchors and they seem to work good.
The Winglts cost $5.75 each & have to make a 3/4" hole
Gripit cost $1.91 each and its not go flush with the wall also have to make a 3/4" hole
Bullfix cost $2.37each & have to make a 3/4" hole
The bigger the hole the more distance you have to give between anchors.
TOGGLE 3/16" hold 802lbs and the hole is only 1/2" Cost $1.25 each 10 pack or $0.80 on pack of 100
easy to find in main hardware stores.
Agreed! Plus the toggle can be slightly adjusted if needed.
How did you calculate the bullfix cost?
I gave the data to the NASA engineering dept. 🤔 @@mstatham10
Until you hang something that pulls directly down you’ll realize exactly why you should’ve have used the toggle bolt lmao. Or something you need to mount on the head of the bolt. I think there might be some sleeves for the bolts but either way not always the best solution and if you’re going that way get the plastic zip tie ones I forgot what they’re called but they stay in the wall after removing the bolt and they support downward weight better.
toggler will hold 800 lbs in 'concrete block'
240 in 1/2 inch drywall
The WingIts Drywall Anchors are for a wall thicknes of up to 1.2 inches and would be the only ones that could be used on a 1 hour fire rated wall that requires either 2 layers of 1/2" or 2 layers of 5/8" drywall {rock). although I am curious if they would work on double 5/8" rock witch measures 1.25 inches.
I see that bowling equipment in the garage space. Very nice.
Nice video and presentation.
Which one to go? It all depends on the price. Please advise of their pricing.
Totally loved the video my friend! Also nice bowling equipment you got there 😊
The anchors may be rated for heavy weights, but I would never trust drywall to hold up to that much stress over a prolonged time. Of the 3 I'd use the Bullfix, because it is easy to remove. Just unscrew to retract the wings, and pop it out.
Unscrewing the screw doesn’t retract the wings. He tapped it in with a hammer and then the screw goes in after, so if the screw is then removed, it doesn’t pull the wings with it
@@TimmyTheSnailyou are correct.
Also may I add (regarding the 3 anchors), the Gripit is reusable and can be used in situations where the plasterboard is inches away from the wall... example dot & dab walls.
@@kaywhite4920the GripIt in theory is reusable, but since the wings construction was changed from metal to plastic, I’ve found once they are tightened up against the plasterboard, they become partially damaged/deformed. The bullfix can also get into a tight gap due to not much sticking through as you place it in the wall part of it, and then as you tap it in further with the hammer, it’s getting closer and closer to the back of the plasterboard
@@TimmyTheSnail
Thanks for informing me regarding the change from metal to plastic wings.. was not aware of the modifications.
Thanks so much for this video! I think the Gripit will work well for me in a bathroom that has had wainscoting placed over tile and a very small gap between the wainscoting and the tile.
Several have mentioned that if you are hanging heavy items you should fasten into the wall studs instead of using drywall anchors. Often that would be better, but it depends on the studs. Wood studs are great, but metal studs can be problematic. For one, metal studs used for interior drywall partitions in homes are often the lightest duty made, 25 gauge or less. The issue with that is fastener pullout. In this case heavy duty drywall anchors are a better choice than fastening to the studs. Heavier gauge metal studs can hold fasteners plenty strong enough, if the correct fastener is used and it is also installed correctly.
I used to do fine art installations for museums, galleries and collectors, and I've mounted some very heavy items on a wide variety of wall types. There is always a way, though sometimes it takes quite a bit of work. One pretty easy solution if the object will cover it, for example a large 50 kg mirror, is to make a French cleat out of plywood, making the wall half as large as practical and attach it to the wall with lots of heavy duty drywall anchors such as large toggle bolts or Wing-Its.
Seem only for sheer loads, need data on rotational & axial loading.
Thanks for making this video. I found it very useful. I like the BullFix best, because it requires the least amount of clearance behind the wall. This matters when you are hanging something on a wall with insulation in it.
Two words: Strap Toggles. I use those for most of my heavy wall mounting applications. No huge hole, ease to use, cheap, and plenty of strength because it distributes the force over a larger surface area than any of the anchors demonstrated here.
Working trades I spend most of my time avoiding damage to drywall, main thing I hate about the strong anchors is having to drill such a large hole for it.
Great channel. Awesome anchors, I will order some. BTW nice bowling equipment. I have the same bowling shoes 😊
I also noticed the bowling equipment too LOL.
What kinda equipment do you have? I was allowed to buy the Storm Hy-Road (2023 batch) and a used Storm Dark Code.
What about removal and the resulting hole that needs to be patched?
The Wingits are just a plastic redesigned toggle bolt. I like the Bullfix one the best.
I added 4 grab bars in my bathroom and shower. I would have preferred to have attached them to the studs in the wall, but that was bot possible. I used the Wingits, and they worked great.
Watching from Yosemite Kentucky. 😊
Yay! Thank you so much for the love and support my friend 👍🏽🙏🏽😊🥰
What would you recommend using 3/8 drywall?
I think they are great for where no studs align but I still would stay half the weight. 4 anchors for a drywall for a 65 inch tv
Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
I would go with the Bullfix.😊
Great choice! Me too! 👍🏽😊
Home run again, boss. This was something I've always wondered. Thanks a million.
What about metal studs? What anchor is best for that?
Keeping the 2x4 studs being so slide the wall can hold. But on a regular spacing it weakens the drywall. I rather go for the studs to hold in my opinion but that is good they are better then your average ones
I agree with the studs for much heavier objects to hang, much better than the average! Thank you for your feedback my friend! 🙏🏽😊
Nice information but the testing 2x4's in your example drywall is not on a standard width of 16" center. Which is the standard home. Thanks
Which one is Re usable? Not the third one.
Load bearing code where i am is 16" on center. Thats a big span to try hanging anything over 20 pounds. Especially drilling big ass holes in my wall to fix later.
Thank You for your Knowledge!
I’m glad I could be of help 🙏🏽😊
I use some plastic ones that work very well.
Thanks for finding these EHD anchors very cool
The larger the hole, the larger the contacted area between the anchor and the drywall, which helps reduce pressure on drywall's contacted area. If they make a practicable simple plastic anchor as big (diameter-wise) as that, it will be able to support the same claimed weight.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and feedback! 🙏🏽😊
I've noticed that your stud are very close to each other. It make a big difference in terms of strength of the dry wall.
Would take a metal spring toggle over these any day of the week.
Since the 90's I have been using SnapToggle heavy duty BA/BB Toggler and they only require a 1/2 (13mm) inch hole can easily support over 238 pounds (108 kg) in 1/2 inch drywall. They are less destructive to the drywall and are simple to use and readily available at most hardware stores. You should compare these and you see how much better and easier they are to use. @FixThisHouse actually covered these in a video about year ago.
Snaptoggles are definitely better than all of these, but they CANNOT "easily support over 238 pounds (108 kg) in 1/2 inch drywall"
You should read the instructions / specs from the manufacturer very carefully. As with most wall anchors those are 'ultimate' loads aka the load at which the wall FAILED. The instructions clearly state that you need to divide those numbers by a safety factor of four. In 1/2" drywall the maximum safe working load (if they drywall is in perfect condition) is 60 lbs tension / 62 pounds shear. Which is about as strong as you're going to get for any drywall anchor.
It seems like nearly everyone, including many 'professionals' and people with youtube channels, have no understanding of safety factors, and are constantly quoting the FAILURE ratings as if that is the working load rating.
By the way this isn't even factoring in the adjustments you need to make for cantilever forces (for things like shelves), or additional stress applied by motion or vibration that needs to be accounted for in many cases.
@@danstheman33 I have a very heavy statue that I want to hang, I want to fix a large panel ( 40cm x 70cm height x 2.2xm thick ) of strong wood with 4 or 6 toggle bolts onto the drywall ( no studs at this place ), to have a maximum contact surface, then place another wood panel with squares, fixed on the first wood panel with wood screws, then put my statue on it. Statue + all pieces ( wood, squares ) should be around 40 kg. Would you say it's ok ?
I have a collection of valuable vintage guitars, and I won't use anything but Toggler's Straptoggles on the wall hangers. They're rated for 265 lbs. and they're a breeze to install. No, none of my guitars weighs that much, but I never have to worry about them falling off the wall.
How about an evaluation of tensile and shear using a 1/4" drill bit compatible anchor. Aren't we looking for the highest strength with the smallest drill hole while avoiding a protruding flange?
Larger surface area gives you the best strength
These all require a huge hole, and only work with standard drywall thicknesses (not thicker or less typical walls like plaster). For these walls, there are much better options like Snaptoggles, which require a smaller hole, are much stronger, and work with a much wider range of wall thicknesses.
I looked into the Gripit recently, and of all of these, it is the one that offered a unique potential advantage- it only requires a very small cavity behind the wall. It only requires a 1/4" cavity, according to information I found on Amazon (even though this critical information is not listed anywhere on the product website or the packaging..). However, this potential advantage is irrelevant most of the time when you're working with standard drywall, and these only work with drywall up to 5/8" thick.
That doesn't allow for a double layer of drywall, or slightly thicker drywall that is often encountered when 5/8" drywall has a thick layer of mud, and certainly doesn't allow for plaster.
If they made a version of this that could work in 1" walls or thicker, with the same 1/4" clearance, then this would be a useful product that could work where others don't. And might justify the huge hole that you have to drill, and which for many people will have to be patched in the future. But as it is, none of these are worth using ever, as there are better products that leave a smaller hole and are stronger, and work in nearly any scenario where these will.
Gonna give them a test now 😎✌🏻
Thank you! 👍🏽😊
None of these beat the traditional zip it for ease of installation.
You do an excellent job thank you
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
yeah, for how long of time it can handle that weights?
They all seem to work okay but I still prefer the good old toggle bolts. Been around forever and always work.
Of the 3 devices, which one(s) cant be removed if you decide you no longer want something hanging on your wall? Seems to me all three would have to be permanent with no way to remove.
The first and second *may* be able to be recovered after installation, but any time you're using an anchor you're going to have at least *some* repair work after you remove the mounting hardware.
You can remove bullfix
ua-cam.com/video/H50hEpC8-3E/v-deo.htmlsi=jxAYBbZj31W3d8JD
Oooo we need a bowling ball review next 🤙🏻🤙🏻
All the anchors in my opinion are decent products.
However ONLY the Gripit is reusable and can be used in situations where the plasterboard is inches away from the wall (because only a small screw needed and provided to activate wing mechanism) example dot & dab plastered walls.
The other anchors cannot perform the aforementioned tasks.
ua-cam.com/video/H50hEpC8-3E/v-deo.htmlsi=f-gG0kmslBIUsAmZ
Butterfly anchors are the winner.
Thank you , a channale that show fix home , not commercial contractor show.
only problem I have with them all is the HUGE hole u have to drill in the wall board...... good review 🤠
excellent presentation
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I am amazed at how much weight drywall can hold. Your test was a bit flawed in the most wall studs are 16 inches apart, but still impressive.
You showed how two looked from the back after drilling holes but not the Bullfix one (?) 🤷♂️🤔
Yes I did my friend 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
If you look closely on the front lip, there should be a small arrow. Place the anchor with this arrow pointing upwards. Why? Because the position of the "wings" when opened is important. :-)
Thank you, very informative video!
I’m glad I could be of help my friend 🙏🏽😊
I always use glue or epoxy to bond screw anchors in drywall. Drywall itself has little strength.
Thank you for sharing your technique! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Good vid, good channel. Nice.
Bro, do you do home renovations and remodeling and repairs and additions? I live in Beacon Hill, Seattle WA.
Prefer the Fischer DuoTec fitting myself
The spade bit is a super bad idea . they tend to rip up the surface as they enter and exit material .
It is the paper that creates the strength on dry wall , so if it's torn away from the edge of the hole ,you risk failure of the anchor . it won't be possible to see the damage /tear on the back side so you don't know if the little wings are spreading out over bare drywall or not .
What's best for full motion TV mounts?
You want to use toggler bolts for wall mounted TVs that's what the pros use.
Leaves a hell of a hole to patch later
I have used the Wingits, and they claim 300lb sheer strength. I used them to install safety bars in a friends, shower. 1 time he slipped in the shower and later called me and said they worked well because he grabbed it when he slipped and didn't fall. He weighed over 300lbs. at the time and was grateful they were there.
Great, I'll wallmount my 75 and 85 TVs !
those are some massive holes needed for a drywall anchor
How to remove them?
Good video, informative!
Thank you.
I wonder if Plasterboard and Drywall have the same strength, I assume it cannot be that different? Anyway you translated the measurements wrong, Imperial and US are similar, Metric is different. 12.5mm is near enough half an inch for example. A smidge under.
What's your golf handicap?