Bona® Sand & Finish Training - Chapter 4: Staining & Finishing
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
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Experienced hardwood flooring professionals and amateurs alike will find the Bona® Sand & Finish Video Training Series an incredibly useful tool packed with reliable information - straight from the wood floor experts. These videos give a thorough demonstration of the process from start to finish by using Bona's BEST PRACTICES to ensure safety, consistency, quality, and professionalism.
Table of Contents:
00:00 - Introduction
00:38 - Tools & Prep
01:17 - Application Rate & Airflow
02:08 - Color Samples
02:43 - Stain Application
03:48 - Cutting In
04:20 - Fixing Mistakes
04:29 - Buffer Application
05:37 - Bona Sealer Application
06:12 - Job Site Prep
07:11 - The Game Plan
08:20 - Preparing the Applicator
08:56 - Using Sealer
09:42 - Rolling Bona Waterborne Sealers
11:05 - Making Your Exit
12:42 - Abrading Between Coats
13:29 - Let's Get Started!
14:09 - Post-Abrasion Cleaning
14:57 - Finish Application
15:38 - Job Site Prep
16:21 - Mixing Finish
17:03 - Preparing Your Finish
17:16 - Rolling Waterborne Finish
18:41 - Bona Finish Application - Second Coat
19:02 - Educate Your Customer
19:52 - Wrap-Up - Навчання та стиль
![ЛЕБЕДЕВ у ДУДЯ: муху не обманешь 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E74h5fvVrqs/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been using Bona products for over 18 years. Easy to use and have never had an issue. Best on the market.
Hi Peter - Thanks for the kind words and for your business!
the best training video . Thank you so much
Glad you liked it!
Hank Hill would love this video. Well done
Thanks for the props, Sandman!
Good Video!
Thanks again, Cooke's!
i can't wait to replace all my lagler sanders with Bona ones, hopefully next year as we are a young company, but using Bona finishes was the best business decision i have made, far superior to say pallmann which i used before, way faster and look better, might cost a little more but you make that back through time, and we all know time is money!
maynard The flexisander is the best!! Hardly ever use the hummmel anymore👍
Thanks for the support and product/machine interest, King! Please feel free to reach out to your Bona sales rep or myself once you do purchase some Bona sanding machines if you have any questions and or we can help you maximize your production with the units!
This is the best video series for refinishing any floor (and really using any product) out there! So thanks for that.
1 Question: As we have original fir flooring throughout the house including bathrooms, how many coats would you recommend of sealer and finish to provide maximum protection for the bathroom environment? Would it be the same as the rest of the house or would a one or two coats extra be best. Thanks!~
Hi Chris - Thanks for the props on this video series and glad you found it helpful. For bathrooms and kitchens or other high use (and subject to moisture from above the floor), we'd recommend just an extra coat of Finish be applied. Too many coats won't really add more protection and it may start to look too thick (and more like plastic) - we want the beauty of your floors to shine through! Hope that helps!
Buffing to stain is nice but I gotten used to do it the old fashion way . Both works nicely but more knee and back pain. I’ll work with buffer to stain in the near future
Hi Mass - For the sake of your knees and back, we'd love to see you make the switch of buffing on your color with Bona DriFast Stain. It's easy to make the switch and you'll never go back to the "old fashion way". Good luck and hope this and our other videos on DriFast Stain help you to be successful!
I store my applicators in a 2" ABS tube (plumbing section). Cap the end, put screw top on the other end. Attach a spot for pliers to help with removing the cap if by chance the threads get some clear coat on them. Fill with clean water after washing out your applicator and just screw the cap. Don't leave it in freezing temperatures. Works great. As long as you don't catch any edges with your applicator it should last a good 10-15 jobs (of course depending on the job). **I am using a T-Bar and Applicator with Extension pole.
Yep, that's good information on applicator storage, GTG! Thanks for sharing your experiences and trick of the trade!
nice
Thanks Dibio!
Is it recommended to apply Bona sealers and finishers above 90 F ambient? My worksite is the second level of an old cape cod style home, so Its basically a glorified attic. It's going to be even hotter up there. Thank you for any help!
Hi Ryan - Ideal conditions are 65-80F and 40-60% relative humidity; so, if you're trying to apply sealers and finishes in 90F+, they're probably going to set up really fast and not have as much of a chance to flow, level, and defoam properly. Recommend that you coat early in the morning when it's cooler; try to usher as much of the hotter air out of there before coating (box fan in a window?); bring in a portable cooler if possible; add some Bona Retarder to your waterborne Sealer and or Finish; and definitely zero air flow while applying and afterwards too. Hope this helps.
I’ve been using quick shine on the hardwood floors and obviously not happy about that. I’m switching to bona. Can I apply the polish from bona on top of what is now on there or should I completely remove anything on the flooring? It doesn’t look bad but just need to start a new system
Hi Heather - Best suggestion would be to fully remove any residue from the Quick Shine from your floors before applying any Bona products on top. If you have additional questions, please give our Tech and Training crew a call at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
Our hardwood flooring was recently sanded and refinished and looks
absolutely beautiful. It looks just like when the house was purchased in
1964.
I have some questions:
1. How many times can the above be completed if necessary once again?
Someone said up to ten times but is this accurate?
2. What does the sealant do for the flooring? Does it protect against
pet urine?
3. If you were worried about you pet having accidents what could you do
for protecting the hardwood flooring? Could you apply more sealant to
the flooring?
4. Someone said if your pet causes accidents sometimes you could rebuff
and reseal but sanding and refinishing would be unnecessary so worrying
is useless. Is this actually true?
Thanks in advance for answering my questions here.
Take care.
Hi Michael - Thanks for your questions!
1. Really depends on the wood flooring species and some other factors. In general, solid 3/4" red oak can probably be sanded and finished 5-6 times, white oak 6-7 times, hickory or maple 7-8 times, and dense exotics 10+ times. We've had Brazilian Cherry in our training centers that we sanded 15-16 times before it had to be replaced.
2. While a good sealer/finish system will help minimize damage from spills and pet accidents, none of the systems are 100% water-proof. Plus, it's usually down an open seam crack that water and urine tend to travel down and do their damage. No cure for that, except to not let the dogs in the house (and that's never the case at my house.
3. Just need to get it wiped up as soon as possible. Also, when getting the floors sanded and refinished, we'd recommend having the floors full trowel filled to help minimize or eliminate open seams between the boards. Keeping humidity levels consistent year-round is also helpful to keep the seams from opening up in the drier months.
4. Urine, if it actually soaks into the wood, reacts with the natural acids in the wood causing the associated stains. Since the stains are down in the wood, just buffing and recoating with more finish will not get rid of the stain. Sometimes they can be sanded out, if shallow, but it's very difficult to tell if the stain was fully removed and may come back. The only 100% solution is to replace the damaged board(s).
Since a lot of your questions concern pet urine issues, I'd also offer this up. 2-component waterborne finishes are a lot more chemical/moisture resistant than single component or solvent/oil-based finishes (and we sell both), because the finish film is tighter on a molecular level. While my own dogs do have the occasional to frequent accidents on our wood floors, I've never had a urine stain appear because the Bona Traffic keeps the urine up on top and doesn't allow it to penetrate into the floor. Again, if open seams are present then it could enter through that route, but the type and quality of finish applied can also make a big difference!
Hope this helps!
All the Best!
Todd Schutte
Director of eLearning
Bona US
Hello!
Stain (Dye) will raise the grains... Why dont we sand that risen grains right away before priming with sealer / primer?
Hi @nickname5103 - Typically, solvent-based wood floor stains will not raise the grain, while waterborne dyes and or coloration systems will have a tendency to raise the grain. The main reason not to sand away the grain raise from a waterborne system right away (prior to sealer application) is that you'll also remove some of the stain/dye color when removing the grain raise. So, we'll always apply a couple coats of sealer and then smooth the grain raise off the top of those prior to finish application to preserve the color but still give us a smooth final surface. Hope that helps!
Thankyou
You're very welcome, Kenny! Glad we could help.
Hello , I have a question about Bona Traffic HD in commercial satin , how it compares to regular satin is it more or less shiny ? Thanks.
Hi Tolek - A "commercial" satin finish (Traffic, Traffic HD) will have less sheen that a standard satin finish (i.e. Mega Satin). Using a 60-deg gloss meter, Commercial Satin would read 15-20, and regular Satin would read 25-30.
Hope that helps and Thanks for the question!
Once you add the hardener, how long do we have to use the mix?, can I still use it the next day If I don't use everything the day before? Thanks
Hi Vitor - When Hardener is added to any of the Traffic family of finishes, you have 4 hours of pot-life in which the product is full strength. After that the key properties of the finish will start to diminish quickly and any remaining finish may actually thicken and turn solid in the jug. Even if any leftovers have not thickened or solidified by the next day, it is would not recommended to try and use that product (especially not as a top coat over the 100% product that you applied the day before); as it may stay a bit soft; take really long to dry; never really dry, etc.
Hope this helps!
not sure why i watched it... but nice!
Same.
Hi Gplay - Probably because it's very gratifying to see a wood floor come to life with stain and fresh coats of finish. Glad you enjoyed it!
HI, what's the colour you used on the floor? I want exactly this colour in my house. Beautiful job!
Lukrécia Macskássy i
Bona DriFast Jacobean!
how much does it cost for customer SQF thank you for everything nice video
Hi Andre - That's a very wide-ranging question and best answered by your local Bona Certified Craftsmen, depending on what exactly needs to be done on your floor. Craftsmen can be found here: us.bona.com/contractor.html
I was told I cannot go with light color due to the dark spots. However, my bedrooms floors is still in good condition with no dark spots. Does it makes sense to have the entire flooring match the dark color? I don't want the dark color but no money for new flooring. I already booked the appointment so lost. Thanks for sharing
Hello 1sornram - Guessing that the dark spots are pet or water stains? Best evaluated by a professional hardwood floor craftsman. Typically, homeowners get one color of stain throughout (especially if on adjoining rooms and or the same species of flooring); but that's not always the case. Discuss the options with your professional once they've had a chance to look at your floor in person. Your local Bona Certified Craftsmen can be found here:
us.bona.com/contractor.html
Hope that helps!
how soon between coats to apply next coat, I have a very small area and want to get two coats down before the pot life is gone. it won't take me more than 15 minutes to put down one coat. TIA
Hi John - Waterborne products can typically be recoated after 2-3 hours dry time. If high humidity and lower temps, then you can apply some extra air flow after 30-40 minutes of initial dry time to help that process along. Hope this answers your question. Thanks!
How soon after the first coat of finish until you should apply the next?
Hi Don - Thanks for the question. Most Bona waterborne sealers/finishes take anywhere from 1-4 hours to dry between coats. Taking a quick hand measurement (not sticky/tacky nor cold/clammy) can suffice in most cases after the recommended dry time for that particular product. If really pressed, you can add extra air flow (box fans set in doorways once coat has tacked off for 15-20 minutes) to speed up the drying, and use a pinless, dual-depth moisture meter (get a base reading before any sealer/finish is applied) to test if the previous coat is dry enough to apply the next (once you get back to within 1% point of your base reading). We usually don't recommend more than two coats per day, as you risk locking in some excess moisture if stacking coats too fast - leaving your top coats milky or too hazy. Hope that helps!
can this product apply by spray gun. am doing a wood sealing
Thank you for reaching out. You cannot apply any of our sealers with a spray gun. Please feel free to contact our Technical Services Team at 800-872-5515 from 7 AM - 4 PM MST or here for further questions: www.bona.com/en-US/Bona-Professional/Tools--Resources/Contact-Us-Form/Technical-Services-Request-Form/ Have a nice day!
Great tutorial..so after sealer use 2 coats of varnish..do i need to sand between 2coats of varnish.? Iv ordered bona mega one
Hi @Jo-xg6rk - You only need to abrade between coats for smoothness, if needed, if applied within 48 hours of the prior coat. If later than that, you should lightly abrade the floor using a Bona Conditioning Pad to ensure good adhesion as well. After abrasion, vacuum and tack the floor until clean, prior to coating.
@@BonaProfessional thanks very much👍
Is it safe to stain across the floor instead of with the rows like in the video ? Thanks Ed
Hi edwh164 - It's always a best practice to apply any stain/sealer/finish "with the grain" or in same direction as the flooring runs, to avoid cross-grain application marks. Some professionals like to apply cross-grain first to help the product wet out and evenly distribute into to all areas of the piece, but then always complete that section by rubbing and feathering out with their rag/buffer, in the same direction as the flooring runs. Hope that helps!
So if put down a dri fast stain...I can put down a sealer ontop of the stain?
Yup
While you don't have to apply an additional coat of sealer over DriFast Stain (it's a stain/sealer, so does both jobs), a lot of contractors will apply Bona IntenseSeal over the stain first (to give the stain color some "pop" and give it some build); or perhaps a coat of Bona AmberSeal to give brown tone stains just a bit more color; then two coats of the chosen Bona waterborne finish over the stain/sealer combo.
Hi, how long do you recommend waiting between the seal and the finish? We did ClassicSeal and Traffic HD, but we aren't sure how long to wait between these two...
Hi Madison - Typically, the dry time for any of the waterborne Sealers is going to be 2-3 hours before applying another coat (of Sealer or Finish); but that also depends on internal temperature, humidity, and air flow. Best practice would be to use a dual-depth pinless moisture meter to get a base reading before any Sealer or Finish goes on the floor (let's say average reading is 8%); then after application of any of the top coats, you can start taking readings after about 1-2 hours of dry time - and as soon as you're within 1-2 points of your base (so 9-10% versus our 8% base), then it's dry enough to add another coat. Otherwise, after about 30-45 minutes of drying, add some extra air flow to the environment (HVAC or box fans placed in doorways, if possible) and give it at least the recommended dry time of 2-3 hours for Sealers before the next coat. Hope all this helps!
@@BonaProfessional my flooring company said they are only letting it dry for 45 minutes between the seal and the finish should i be concerned?
Going to use traffic Hd extra matte on some steps that were stained with oil based stain . Would you recommend a sealer first ? Thanks
@@mikem1956 While the oil-based stain will probably have some sealer characteristics as well, we would still typically apply a coat of sealer over our stain application to provide a better build (at less cost than the finish) and to "pop" the color, and then apply coats of the finish over the top of that. Hope than answers your question! Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional thanks
im confused, they mention sealer but not finish. Isnt this video showing a post stain finish, not seal? Or are we using the terms interchangeably? I need to sand new unfinished hardwood, then stain with a minwax stain that I used for all other wood areas of the room, then put a protective hard finish on top.
Hello @Scott-dn1bk - Sometimes a sealer is also applied over the stain and sometimes just straight finish; usually depends on what you want the final "look" to be and if you need a sealer to add to that look. Otherwise, going straight finish over a stained floor is usually acceptable. A few words of caution about using Minwax stain on your floor and trying to match everything else in the room. Flooring and furniture/cabinet wood are usually two different qualities and it's hard to get them to look the same, even when using the same finishing system. Also, recommend using a floor stain (Minwax is for furniture) of the same color, as adhesion issues may result if you use a non-floor product. Hope all this helps in your project success!
@@BonaProfessional thanks for the response and clarification. I built this cabin on my own but this is my first journey with hardwood. And thanks for the info about the stain. I will likely try to source bona stain for my flooring now.
I'm aware that my items won't match. Alder doors, poplar trim, pine window casings are what I picked up due to availability through COVID so I'm ok with variances in the color. It is what it is. Now I'm trying to find a source to rent equipment closer than an hour away :)
If you're going to apply a finish, do you need to apply a sealer still
Yes
@@arbit3r I spoke to Bona directly. They said if you use Bona stain, it already has sealer in it. So you can use just Bona Stain and a finish.
Hi Justin - While you don't have to apply an additional coat of sealer over DriFast Stain (it's a stain/sealer, so does both jobs), a lot of contractors will apply Bona IntenseSeal over the stain first (to give the stain color some "pop" and give it some build); or perhaps a coat of Bona AmberSeal to give brown tone stains just a bit more color; then two coats of the chosen Bona waterborne finish over the stain/sealer combo.
So I could go straight from Bona Stain to Bona Finish?
Hi Lydia - Yes, you could go from Bona DriFast Stain straight to finish application over the top, as our stain is a stain/sealer in itself. Some contractors may put a coat of Bona waterborne sealer on top of the stain to pop the color (Bona IntenseSeal) or mute the color (Bona NaturalSeal) or add some deep wood tones (Bona AmberSeal), but it's also o.k. to skip this additional Sealer and go straight to the finish applications. Hope that helps!
I am having my hardwood refinished tomorrow, they are using waterborne finish. Since I purchased my home 20 years ago, this is the first time I am doing this, I have been delaying it because emptying the home is a total pain in the arse, specially having to move everything by myself without any help. I have been told lately that waterborne finish is not near as durable as "old school" solvent based stuff, so I am a bit concerned... the contractor said he is aplying three coats. I live alone, no kids and no pets, so the floors are not going to suffer a harsh life. What do you guys think? Thanks.
@BonaTrainingUSA Thanks!
Hi Hal - This might have been true forty years ago when waterborne finishes first came onto the market, but today's high quality, 2-component waterborne finishes are some of the most durable on the market - used in high profile, high traffic commercial locations around the world. Bona also makes a top quality oil-modified finish too, but we always recommend waterborne first. Too many advantages over oil-modified - doesn't yellow with age, non-flammable, lower in VOCs, don't have to abrade between every coat, etc. I've got four kids, two dogs and Bona Traffic HD finish down for 10 years - still looks awesome!
I have used this stuff . When it’s done right it looks great . However DO NOT SKIMP OUT ON THE POLLY if you try to stretch it you will regret it . This stuff shows stop marks big time . Use the roller . It’s the only way
Hi Ghost - Yep, any product when used correctly should look and perform as advertised. "Application Rate" is actually one of our Commandments for Sanding and Refinishing. A single coat of most finishes is only about 1mil (1/1000") thick - about the thickness of a piece of copy paper - so, you're correct that folks shouldn't SKIMP on the poly, as they'll just be reducing the overall physical film protection and visual depth on the floor. You didn't do all that work up to this point to start cutting corners now?!? Thanks!
I apply stain not from bona and than mega matte do I have to send floor again to seal it?
Hello Martin - You'll need to follow the directions from the stain manufacturer that you are using. Sometimes they might recommend a light abrasion (with just a Bona Conditioning Pad/siavlies Pad) prior to coating (or if the stain has dried for too long). Hope that helps.
I can't believe they didn't turn the comments off on this. What were those kids doing in that kitchen? Good thing that wasn't a seal coat or they'd have burnt the mess outta that floor!
Not sure what you're talking about there, Ole Hickory?!? Job turned out beautiful and if we would have put sealer over the stain (to mute or pop the color), it would have turned out great too!
3:02 "Plus you're upright and not down on your hands and knees."
Unless you're the new guy there on the right.
Hi Justin - That's what new guys are for, right?!? And, yes, of course - there's always someone down on their hands and knees when working on a hardwood floor, but ragging stain on/off the old fashioned way is a real killer on the knee caps. Buffing it on/off makes a ton of difference and totally even and beautiful application. Cheers!
Where does one rent all this stuff?
these are 6 to 8 thousand dollar machines and not available at rental stores. These machines are for the professional and not meant for the home owner. It's like comparing a family auto to a 1000 hp indy car. If you don't have the training and experience you can end up in trouble real quick.
captain757747 yeah it would make more sense if they showed equipment that was actually available, or showed methods contractors who have not bought a bunch of Bona machines use. So it looks like I'm stuck using Duraseal. Too much conflicting information on Bona traffic HD. And of course this video didn't help any
Yes I agree with you but they are selling Bona products. Now an option for you is to try Home Depot and rent a machine by Clarke called Easy Eight sander This It is light weight by comparison and will take a little longer but the same results may be had. It also takes a sanding collar which will give you a smoother finish. When you sand around the edges ,if you lay a flashlight on it's side it will show any sanding scratches left by the edger. I usually remove these ,only after edging with a 100 or higher grit sand paper, with an orbital hand sander with 120 or 150 grit and blend it back into the floor field. Hope this helps
Sanding done, well some of the rooms anyway. Would I hope was this video would show normal methods of applying Bona's stain sealer and finishes. Instead of special buffer attachments, unidentified materials, bonnets for their special buffer attachment, and all the other proprietary stuff they want to sell me to use their finish that cost $120 a gallon.
Yeah, the EZ 8 is a bit slower, but I do like having the lever, especially in smaller rooms
Sanding and finishing your own wood floors is typically not a DIY project. Yes, some homeowners have the skills and understanding when working with wood to get decent results; but most find themselves over their heads, and or end up with tons of sander/edger/swirl marks in the floor and applicator marks/puddles in their finish and sealer coats.Two keys to a great floor. 1) The sanding job, and 2) The finishing job. There is rental equipment out there but the quality and ease-of-use is typically not close to par with professional equipment. If you have to use poor machinery, you'll usually end up with poor results. The finishing is a whole other animal. Working large spaces with walls, corners, kitchen islands, transitions, etc. is not the same as finishing a small wood project.Not trying to talk you out of a DIY project, but just trying to lay out the facts of what's available to DIY versus the professionals who take years to perfect a true craft.
on thinking take off shoes or boots
Timothy kramer don't use barefoot or sock feet. The oils in your skin or contaminants in your socks could leave foot prints in your floor. I work for a very prestigious flooring company in Alberta Canada and we switch out our footwear to clean moccasins(No rubber or soft sole type shoe). Easy to clean and wipe off before walking on to our floor. An easy way to prevent rubbing, footprints or shoe marks.
That is a great idea.. Benn in the business for over 50 yrs and just learned something new. Oh yes the booties can leave lint tracks. Ask me how I found that out.
sweat from your socks can cause grain raise
I think the other Replys have it covered.
Everybody has pets. will commercial grade seal permanently protect against urine as the commercial grade artificial wood floors?
If properly sealed and finished, it should protect against pet urine penetrating into the wood from the surface. However, there are still the side seams and end joints where urine can leak down in between the boards and into the wood.
Too many steps. Tear it out and instlal tile..
u2ooberboober that would be far more steps
Hi boober - You can't change the color, texture, and sheen on tile, like you can with hardwood floors!?! Natural wood is the only way to go.............