Six Minute Timing Belt Job: 1993 Lexus SC300 (2JZ-GE, non-VVT-i)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 вер 2014
- The timing belt, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, timing belt tensioner, idler pulley and thermostat were replaced (new) on a 1993 Lexus SC300 (2JZ-GE, non-VVT-i). The actual job took 4 hours, which included bleeding the cooling system. Continued below...
Important Installation Notes:
1. The cam shaft pulley removal and installation techniques shown in this video DO NOT APPLY for cars that have the VVT-i interference engines. Doing so can run the risk of damaging valves.
2. Not shown in video-Water pump removal: In addition to removing six front bolts of the pump, you also need to remove two small nuts on the rear of the pump that connect to the water bypass pipe.
3. Thread locker adhesive (Loctite #242) is required to be applied on the idler pulley bolt prior to installation.
4. Shown briefly in the video, a general purpose grease is required to be applied on the inner and outer lip of both the cam shaft and crank shaft seals before installing.
5. Using a timing gun to test the ignition timing (not to be mistaken with cam timing) is NOT REQUIRED after performing a timing belt job as shown in this video. (This was done because the distributor was tampered with prior to this job).
Specialty Tools Used in the Video:
1 Cam Shaft Seal driving tool: 1 1/4" PVC Schedule 40 coupling
2. Crank Shaft Seal driving tool: 1 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 coupling
3. Pulley Holder: made by Performance Tool #W89208
4. Seal Puller: made by Lisle #58430
Other Useful info:
Thread Pitch of the Bolts(2) Used for Pulley Removal Tool:
1. Timing Pulley/ Cog : M6-1.00
2. Crankshaft Pulley: M8-1.25
Sources:
Torque Specs Information shown in the video were taken from an Official Toyota Factory Service Manual /Technical Information System: Toyota; techinfo.toyota.com - Навчання та стиль
For FAQ's, additional installation notes, and other specs, expand the Description of the video above.
strumpeteer ,
May I contact you via email
This video is great. I've used it to do my timing on three different cars. Thank you man.
Another great video ! Doesn't apply to my SC400 but I watched the whole thing anyway. Your videos are great.
Excellent video. I had a 95' SC300, great car. The video brings back great memories.
Short, sweet, and to the point. Thanks for the helpful vid!
Thank you much!
Nicely done, man! 👍
Awesome video. I'm getting ready to do this exact same service on my 2003 IS300 5spd Manual. Got 205k on her right now.
never thought of that thank you so much keep up the good work...thank you sir!
The breaker bar against the ground is pretty nifty! Instead of using two guys or the frame of your car. Thanks for the video.
You're pretty observant! Your'e welcome.
@@strumpeteer Do you happen to know what size breaker bars? 1/2 25" for both?
@@xenospark713 Yeah, 25"L 1/2"drive (from Harbor Freight )and an old 17"L 1/2" drive (Husky) using an extension pipe.
@@strumpeteer Thank you!
Omg you did all that in 6 minutes you are fast.
Yeah, I was going to try this job myself on my 2000 SC300.. buuut.. think I’ll just hand it to my mechanic after seeing you use several special tools I don’t own nor feel like buying/renting. Great video though!
Did ur mechanic end up fucking it up or did eveything go smooth
@@larndt5499 They did a good job, wasn't cheap though.
Does the rotor point to befor 1 or after 1 on timing one of these guys?
Thanks that was helpful.
oh good…. next time I change my timing belt I’ll know how! :) :) ;)
Awesome!
I don't need any silicone on the pump to the block??
Hey I'm curios I know the Toyota manual when servicing the timing belt don't require a cam holding fixure so to speak, just simply line up the marks and trust the cams to not flop down or over, I'm just curious if this is simply by design of the engine from toyota or if it's just hoping enough haha? I have a 2jzge and when I service it, it always gets me nervous. if you have Andy idea that would be great thanks
+anthony ortiz Because the engine is under compression, it takes quite a bit of force to turn the cams on your 2JZ. When the belts are off the pulleys, they just won't "free wheel" like the wheels on your bicycle nor will they spin as easy as that huge wheel in the Wheel of Fortune. The pulleys will stay in position unless you put some leverage on the pulley like a breaker bar or some sort so don't be nervous. If you look at my video, you'll notice I didn't use any cam pulley holding device while I was putting on the belt or when I was working on the other stuff like water pump, thermostat, etc. Take your time and make sure all the marks line up, ESPECIALLY you have the VVT-i version. If you're still a worry wart, you can jam wooden dowels between the cog teeth of both cam pulleys to lock them in place. I have a photo of the wooden dowel cam holder device that I made and I can upload somewhere if you really really need to do this :)
Great Video just a quick question coundnt you just replace the belt without taking off the idler pully etc ? Thanks just want to know if I can take a short cut
Yes definitely- you don't have to take the idler pulley off to replace the timing belt. In my case, I replaced it the idler pulley + hydraulic adjuster/ tensioner since I was in there. So yeah, you've got a shortcut! You do, however, have to remove the hydraulic tensioner to free up the idler pulley before removing the belt. ...and If you choose to reuse the tensioner, you can reset its piston by using a large C-clamp and jamming a paperclip in the hole to hold it in place.
I use the same trick with insulation tape to hold bolts in my socket
What tool did you use to press the timing gear and seal? I see you using a mallet.but what are you using hitting the mallet.with
Thomas Heng For the cam shaft seals, I used a 1 1/4" PVC Schedule 40 coupling and for the crank shaft, I used a 1 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 coupling. In other words, garden sprinkler fittings. If I remember correctly, I paid around 75 cents each from Lowe's home center.
Also planning to do this to my sc3. Where did you get all the parts for the job? Water pump, crank seal and cam seals. Everything. Finding a lot of things on the internet, just want to get the right parts! Thank you.
+Ivan valencia Rockauto.com Search for Timing Belt kit (TKT029) which includes OEM parts: Aisin, Koyoto, Mitsuboshi etc..Moreover, dont forget to buy cam and crankshaft seals,' thermostat with gasket etc.
Thanks! I appreciate it. Did you also get the camshaft and crank seals through rock auto?
Ivan valencia Yes.
does this work for a vvti ? 1998 ? if not is there any info on where i can find a vvti tutorial
time sensitive so i would really appreciate any help thanks
This video will generally work for a 2JZ vvt-i engine except the procedure for cam shaft gear removal. So please don't follow that part of the video as you run the chance of bending valves. There are a few UA-cam videos that cover 2jz vvt-i timing belt jobs in greater detail.
I need to change the Water pump on my VVTI from JDM to USDM, is there any massive differences that have to do with the timing?
As far as I know, as long as you match GTE to GTE they should be identical. Hence, a GE pump will not fit on a GTE engine. That's all I can tell you. Please get a second and third opinion.
I'm trying to figure out which water pump I have a 10 bolt or 11 bolt on my 94 gs300. also could you do a video on heater core flushing?
Whether you have a Supra, SC, GS, IS, etc..., the pain in ass 10 vs 11 bolt debate has been going on forever with lots of misinformation floating around the forums. Please don't stress yourself! What many first time DIYer's don't know is that when picking a replacement water pump, you have two buying options: 1) the water pump with housing, or, 2) just the water pump (mechanical front half) which you have to painstakingly decide if a 10 or 11 bolt will fit the back half of the old pump housing which you can risk losing time and money. Do yourself a favor and dish out the extra cash and pick option 1) -just buy the water pump with housing, where both halves of the pump are already pre-bolted and sealed. All you really have to do left is mount it to block with a new O-ring. Notice In the video that I didn't make use of any silicon gasket maker nor paper gasket before installing the Aisin pump because it already came as a preassembled unit.
strumpeteer alright that works. Any advice on the heater core flush?
Sorry, no heater core flushing videos anytime soon. There are so many great videos on this subject on You Tube already which applies to your GS. The two heater hoses for flushing is really easy to access from the left firewall.
Sure. If your hoses are old, be prepared with new inlet / outlet heater hoses and new hose clamps before starting your flush job. Old hoses usually become "glued" to fragile plastic or aluminum outlet / inlet tubes and most likely you will have to make cuts on the hose ends to aid removal. DO NOT FORCE anything off or else you may end up breaking the fragile inlet/outlet tubes of the heater core or the plastic tubes of the heater control valve and you will be in a world of sh**. You may not have to replace the original hose clamps, but it's a good idea just to have new ones on hand just in case you ruin the old ones for some reason. Good luck.
can you tell me what thread the bolts are to pull the crank off? (not the harmonic balancer)
M6 -1
@@strumpeteer man, thank you. have been watching your videos since i got my SC lol
what if u forget to mark just the crank side of the belt on a GTE?
Actually, marking the belt is not mandatory but optional. (Experienced mechanics never have to mark the belt). Just make sure the cam and cranks are at their marks, install the new belt and engage the tensioner. Manually turn the crank BY HAND two full revolutions and recheck that all pulleys are at the their marks. Always confirm this before starting the engine! Lot's of great videos here on youtube that show you how to do this.
where did you buy the special tools from?
The crank shaft pulley holder and the seal puller are from Amazon.com (I forgot which vendors) and the gear puller kit is from Pep Boys.
What is the torque spec on the thermostat housing bolts?
Thermostat housing nuts (two of them) is 78 in.⋅lbf or 6.5 ft.⋅lbf
the video is excellent but much too fast!
Thanks!; Settings>Playback Speed>Select 0.25 😁
I'm getting a new timing belt on my 93 sc300. It has 123000. What's the chance of it having a bent valve or blown head gasket?? I hope I'm not wasting money
Chance of bent valves = 0 %, that's because 1993's come with a non-inteference engine. Unless you SC is a race car or you have problems with the cooling system, the chance of a blown head gasket = extremely low (these engines are proven to be tanks). The worst case scenario of a broken timing belt is you becoming stranded in the middle of a freeway or far away from home. You're not wasting your money it's preventative maintenance to avoid future headaches.
@@strumpeteer thank you!!
i need this done on my 92 sc400 do you have any knowledge of that job?
No, sorry about that.
Thanks though
Will this procedure work with a 92 SC400? Thanks.
+Rokkn1 No. Your SC400 uses the V8 1UZ engine.
Thank you.
What’s the reason to disable spark advance when checking or setting timing ?
With spark advance enabled, the ignition timing can fluctuate with values all over the map, giving inaccurate results. It's like trying to take a toddler's temperature when he won't sit still.
Thanks I appreciate it coming in with the quick response
Do you need to remove the engine to complete this job?
No
Hey, what size Allen key for the idle pulley tensioner??
+Odane Millwood 10mm
+strumpeteer thanks
what's the torque on the water pump bolt?
Water Pump Bolts: 15 ft⋅lbf
Is their a difference with the vvti engines for the timing belt job?
+Equalizir The procedure is exactly the same. The only difference is changing the VVT-i cam gear seal (There is already a UA-cam video that shows you how to do it.).
+strumpeteer ok thanks man. love the videos. Are you going to ever put coilovers on?
Equalizir Probably not, but I may change my mind:). I want to try to keep this car a daily driver as much as possible. I want to keep the ride quality as comfortable as I can since I spend 2 hours+ commute on California roads everyday.
+strumpeteer I feel you brother. I'm from San-Diego and I know all too well about traffic. I live in Vegas now and almost never any traffic. I'm spoiled lol
where do you get all your torque specs from?
+BKkillaz I got specs directly from the official Toyota Factory Service Manual here: techinfo.toyota.com
+strumpeteer awesome thank you.
What seal removal tool is that?
+brett haskowitz It's a Lisle 58430 Seal Puller ($15).
I wish it was 6 min. LOL! I bought an aftermarket dampner which shattered on me. I've NEVER heard something go BOOM like that. What a mess and costed a lot of money to replace the things that it destroyed also. My alternator casing was broken, radiator was trashed, fan was damaged, along with some metal that actually went through the front bumper. I purchased a Titan Motorsports dampner after that. Haha.
I'm glad I wasn't standing in front of the open hood when it happened.... :O Probably would have been injured badly.
Yikes.Do you happen to know the brand of this defective harmonic ballancer that shattered?
Nope. Not off the top of my head. It was purchased at a local shop where I used to live.
I was working on my 2jzge this weekend. The Fuel ECU computer went out so I learned about the Diagnostic black box and the 12v Mod which fixed it. Now that I have fuel pressure, it still doesn't start. I checked the EFI and IGN fuse.... Nothing. Ugh.... Ordered plugs, wires, and distributor cap. That's why I was looking at your video. haha.
Time to post on Supraforums.com...
hey man, where do you get a good kit? eveything im seeing looks shady
For a 1993 Lexus SC300, Google: "AISIN TKT029" Pick sites such as Amazon, PartsGeek, or Rockauto, Those are all legit non-shady sites. Ebay is a hit or miss, so be careful there. Verify the kit fits your car before ordering!
@@strumpeteer many thanks good sir
@@foghornleghorn8740 btw, I do highly recommend that kit because the water pump is completely assembled which is direct plug and play.
Beware that the cheaper kits only come with the front half of the waterpump. This requires you to dissasemble and clean up the old pump assembly to mate with the new one. ...and then you can run into compatibility issues.
@@strumpeteer i actually ordered this DAYCO WP215K1AS before i saw this - any idea if this is half the pump or no? pics on these site dont tell the whole story sometimes - ordered from rock auto
@@foghornleghorn8740 Looks like the front half in that kit. You're gonna have to disassemble the front half of the pump, scrape off the old gasket with a plastic scraper, then reassemble with new gasket and pump and torque properly. Although this is not in my video, it's totally doable. You just got to put in more work. Goodluck.
Noicccccce 👌🏾👍🏾
Thanks!
Hello was wondering if someone could help my car is a JDM 93 supra 2jzge non vvti engine starts then stalls ran codes and have 24 & 31 which is maf sensor related however my car has map sensor I’ve replaced so far the valve cover gaskets cleaned pcv valve installed new distributor cap rotor button spark plugs and spark plug wires still have same issue if someone could help me diagnose further or may know a solution that I’m not thinking about I would appreciate it thank you.
Check ECU for leaking capacitors.
Just pulled the ecu and took it apart none of the capacitors are leaking as a matter of fact the inside of the ECU looks brand new. Any other ideas?
@@stitches4897 Check IAC Valve. Next, check Fuel Pump ECU (you can try the Fuel Pump ECU Bypass Mod - look it up).
Lite slow version will be nice
Where did you get that torque wrench from?
Two wrenches used in the video were the 'TEKTON 24340', used for the crank shaft pulley and the 'Performance Tool M198', used fro everything else. Both came from Amazon.com.
strumpeteer thank you I've watched all your vids and they have been really helpful...do you still have the sc?
Unfortunately no. With California's strict smog laws my SC barely passed by one point this year. I just didn't want to bother messing with the smog components so I sold it. I sure do miss it though.
strumpeteer yeah cali has got to be the strictest state for cars...can't even modify anything without getting a ticket lol
@@strumpeteer out of curiosity where In CA do u reside in ? Someone with your knowledge I would gladly pay to help with my sc300
soooo since the crankshaft pulley was pulled off with the white line directly on the 0 why was it not matching when you went to put it back on?
+Scott Masterton Very good observation Scott! You caught a bad video edit there. When I first reinstalled the crankshaft pulley and turned it clockwise, the darn camera stopped recording so I had to remove the pulley and repeat the procedure again. When I filmed it the second time, the crank position wasn't exactly at TDC, hence the marks did not line up at "0".
In a perfect world, given that the camshaft pulleys and the timing pulley are lined up at their appropriate marks, the white line on the crankshaft pulley should line up with the "0" mark on the timing cover. Sorry for the confusion.
+strumpeteer sweet thank you very much I'll be doing mine this weekend thank you for the video
can it be done without the timing gun?
Yes. A timing gun is not required if all you did was change the timing belt.
thanks. your videos are very helpful and also the parts list.
Was the timing gun required because you did the cam seals also?
I apologize that the video was misleading. The only time you need to use a timing gun is if you want to check ignition timing (not to be confused with cam timing). I used the timing gun because I rotated the distributor (not shown in the video) when I was figuring out the best way to gain access to the water bypass pipe, but later found out that this step wasn't needed. Anyway, to answer your question, you don't need to use a timing gun after changing the cam seals.
How much does this cost in the shop lol
Minimum 1K (at least here in southern CA).
Trying to break down some green and watch this ain’t working out good vid tho lol
Id honestly say it was a good vid, if i was the flash and could speed watch everything, slow the slides down a tiny bit. Like damn its not a race
You're absolutely right, it's not a race. Some like it fast, medium, slow, muted or even amplified. The beauty of UA-cam is you can set the video speed and the sound level yourself with just a few mouse clicks using the settings feature and mute button. If those options weren't available, trust me, I would've slowed down the video exactly how you liked it. Thanks for your compliment and I respect your honesty.
That is true, I'm getting ready to do my Tbelt and tensioner this weekend. Trying to get as much info as i can before i dive into it, considering i do have a 2jz, but i have VVT-I, but am also going to be doing all the main seals, but not rebuilding the VVT-I gear cause it doesnt appear to leak
@@zachdailyfost4433 ...piece of cake. ...you just cant turn your cam gears (individually) too many degrees like I did in the video. :)
Thats what im seeing! Just over thinking it like i shouldnt haha, done 3 timing belts in my 300zx when i had it and 8 water pumps lol car was a problem child
Good video but too fast to read what you post i hate putting pause
Thanks!; Solution: Settings>Playback Speed>Select 0.25 😁
Can u post this video at normal speed
Great video! For anyone looking for a more in detail video, I made another DIY for the 2jz timing belt. ua-cam.com/video/kRm95qzQ1Qs/v-deo.html
You dont show how to set timing all you did was show install
You referring to the cam shaft timing or ignition timing? This is a timing belt installation video assuming that there is nothing wrong with the timing of your car to begin with.
Video Is 🗑 imo. You couldn't make the video any faster?? Lol.